December 1988

Published quarterly by Eva and John Trapani

PARTY

We wish each one of you could have attended the KlWlphile FILE party at our home on September 24th. Twenty-three of us met for good food, New Zealand wine provided by NZTP, pictures, and talk about our favorite land. Most of us had been in New Zealand at least once, but several hadn't and it seemed obvious that the party inspired them to go and see for themselves.

John showed his best slides, and we watched a great video about New Zealand. Maggie Kerrigan, new Public Affairs Manager for the N.Z. Tourist and Publicity Department, arrived with another delightful video, gifts for everyone, wine, a pleasant friend, and her lovely self. Maggie charmed every one of us with her helpfulness, her down-to-earth friendliness and her Kiwi accent.

By the time we saw the second video a glow had settled over the room, with all of us melding together in the sharing of feelings. There were a few wet eyes as memories came flooding back. i believe there is a quality of feeling for New Zealand in some of us that goes far beyond interest in a travel destination. It seems to be a mystical attraction that beckons even before we set foot on New Zealand soil. It's like an unattainable dream that never lets us go.

Since the evening was so successful, we hope to have more of these gatherings.

BUDGET-CONSCIOU$ HOSTELERS AND SKIERS

We get inquiries often from skiing enthusiasts and from people interested in youth hosteling, and weve been rather at a loss to answer them. We can steer you to some sources of help, however. Join the International Youth Hostel Federation before you leave home. As a member you Can buy a special 10-day bus pass from Newman's Coach Lines for about $245NZ. This can be used as you wish during a 30-day period. For details regarding the, pass and all other information on youth hosteling in NZ, contact any YHA travel office. You can address your inquiry to YHA, Box 436, Christchurch, NZ. There are also offices in Auckland and Wellington. N.Z. Tourist and Publicity offices in the U.S. can supply information as well.

If you're seriously interested in inexpensive accommodations in ski areas, we can send you a copy of a recent article on New Zealand skiing from the L.A. Times travel section. Send $1 and self-addressed stamped envelope.

NZTP also has a free publication, "New Zealand Budget Back- packers Accommodations", listing 39 establishments which offer small dormitory-type rooms at prices from $6 to $1OUS per night. Not as many restrictions are imposed at these facilities as at most hostels. A key is given to anyone wanting to stay out late. For free copies, contact your nearest NZTP office.

There is a new "New Zealand Guidebook" by Jane King, aimed primarily at young budgeteers. It contains detailed info on economical places to stay, including campsites, hostels, B&B's, etc. The book is available from bookstores or from Moon Publications, 722 Wall St., Chico CA 95928 ($13.95, add $1.25 for book rate or $3 for 1st class or UPS).

BOOK SOURCES

Banana Republic will soon discontinue book-selling. I suggest two other sources of travel books not available locally:

(1) Travellers Bookstore, 22 W. 52 St., New York NY 10019 - Phone: 212-664-0995

. You'll enjoy browsing through their catalog, which has a center color section composed of fascinating, unique travel experiences you might not find anywhere else.

(2) Book Passage, 51 Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera CA 94925.

For "The Womans Guide to New Zealand" by Elizabeth Hansen,

you might have to contact Kiwi Distributors, Ltd., P 0 Box 1721, La Jolla CA 92038.

WHEELCHAIR-ACCESSIBLE TOUR

Air New Zealand with Nautilus Tours occasionally offers a special 17-day, wheelchair-accessible tour. Price is $3,759 (per person, double occup.), including air fare, hotel accommodations, full breakfast and evening meals, some lunches, entrance fees and sightseeing tours. Call Nautilus Tours for information. USA -

800—421—9020, California — 800—252—2156.

THE STAGING POST

Margy Gates, Oxnard, Cal., has told us about an interesting place to visit on South Island not far from Kaikoura. This is The Staging Post, owned by Mr. John D. McFarlane, Hawkswood R.D., Parnassus, Canterbury, NZ. Margy says that John is a "charming, crusty old Scotsman, who may lend you a horse if you can ride, and can catch the horse." He offers parking space with hookups for a motorhome or two in the pasture, where you sleep among five riding horses, a Percheron and a goat. You can also ride in a stage coach pulled by the Percheron. The toilet/shower house is made of split logs. Don't go expecting posh accomodations, but the land there is "so magically gorgeous that one finds onseif smiling a lot and willing to instantly be made members of the family." Sounds like a great adventure for young AND old.

HOME VISIT TOUR WITH A DIFFERENCE

We have learned of an exciting and unusual tour designed for travelers who want home visits only. Included are fifteen days of stays in a family atmosphere, with home-cooked meals and visits to unique attractions of which the average tourist is unaware.

Guests are met at the airport and taken by private car to their first home visit where they can partake of any activity they desire, escorted personally by their hosts. They will go on from there to other parts of the country (both islands) by coach or by plane, where they will be met by their next hosts. Included is one 2-night stopover on a Lake Tekapo sheep station. In each city on the itinerary guests will be chauffeured wherever they wish to go.

You can get the travel package from NZTP, Air New Zealand, Patricia Thornton at New Zealand Marketing Network, Box 12662, San Diego CA 92112, or ask your travel agent. You can also write to John Heerdegen, 89 Stanaway St., Auckland 9, NZ.

TODDdS VALLEY FARM

How does room and board in exchange for farm and domestic work strike you? G. R. (Dick) Roberts offers that to anyone of any age interested in basic accommodations, superb scenery, good farm-fresh food, interesting companions, and the opportunity to learn more about conservation. (Read more, p. 181, 1988—89 ed. Frommer's "New Zealand on $40 A Day".)

Dick Roberts is a visionary, a graduate of Cambridge Univ., teacher of biology and geography, and documentary photographer. He offers discussion groups on organic methods, self—sufficiency, community involvement, and much more. You will be introduced into a circle of environmentally involved people from around the world. Write or call for more information: G. R. Roberts, R D 1, Nelson, NZ; tel. 054—520—553.

HOTPAC - JETSET TOURS - SOUTHERN CROSS

So much information is available on bargain tours, bargain packages, exciting new attractions throughout NZ, that we can't begin to include all of it here. But do ask your travel agent for the HOTPAC "good night" book and the "go as you please" book. Another treasure is the JETSET Tours silver book which has bargains galore. John and I have used both to our satisfaction.

Speaking of satisfaction: Marcia Venne, our travel agent, got our most recent car rental through Southern Cross. We were much impressed with the way they do business. We turned in our car a week early, and in typically honest Kiwi fashion, Southern Cross sent us a refund.

TROUT FISHING

We have "inside" advice that the best place for trout fish- ing now is Lake Rotorua rather than Lake Taupo. At Rotorua, you're encouraged to keep your catch rather than releasing it.

WHALES

From the NZTP comes information on Nature Watch Charters out of Kaikoura (east coast of South Island). "Less than a mile offshore from Kaikoura, the edge of the Continental Shelf plunges into a myriad of canyons, holes and oceanic valleys. Here whales gather to feed on the plentiful squid and groper . . . and to provide visitors with a rare marine spectacular.

"While visitors will also see the combined talents of Dusky dolphins, the rare Hector's dolphin, seals and albatrosses at very close quarters, it is the whales which comprise the star turn of the natural aquatic display.

"Sperm whales are regular visitors, capable of diving to 3,000 feet in search of food. Every 45 minutes they surface to re-oxygenate their body for the next dive . . . that's when Nature Watch Charters cruise to within 60 feet of these giant creatures."

May, June and July or November, December and January are the best months for whale viewing, and the killer or Orca whale fre- quents the Kaikoura shores December to March. Hector's dolphin are there year 'round, as is the acrobatic Dusky dolphin, found only in the Southern Hemisphere.

Contact: Nature Watch Charters, 94 The Esplanade, Kaikoura N.Z. Ph. (011—64—513)5662.

WEST COASTERS SHOP IN MELBOURNE

I was fascinated to read in the 30 April 1988 New Zealand Listener that in gold-rush days, people on the West Coast of NZ used to do their shopping in Melbourne, Australia. From Hokitika the sea voyage was longer than to Christchurch, admittedly, but it was safer, and the women folk liked it because Melbourne at that time was a high—fashion town as it still is today.

DOOGIE 'S

Brendan Dugan is a New Zealand born Kiwi-style country and western singer with class. If you're lucky, you've had a chance to see and hear him. He's tall and lean and handsome, with an endearing manner where ladies and children are concerned, and men love him, too. He has a deep, rich voice, an Irish glint in his eyes, and a big wide-open smile. We first heard him sing at an NZTP promo show at the Pasadena Civic Auditorium. Then later John met him personally at a New Zealander's home in West L.A.

When we took our kids and grandkids to the Rotorua Agrodome last April, we were surprised and happy to meet him there. He actually remembered John, and we were invited across the way to Doogie's, an eatery mainly serving Agrodome visitors. Plans were underway to make the place larger and more attractive to tourists. Be sure to stop in and identify yourself as being among our "Kiwiphiles." Hopefully you'll meet Brendan and/or his lovely wife Sandy. Tell him John and Eva say hello.

STONE COTTAGE, ARROWTOWN

In the whole world, my favorite thoroughfare is the road from Queenstown to Arrowtown, the one that goes past the turnoffs to Skipper's and Coronet Peak. When I'm on it, I feel trans- ported to a past somewhere that I can't bring to mind. The scenery is beautiful -- breathtaking in spots, in others just peacefully lovely, with sheep grazing all about, and little country roads wandering off to somewhere.

When you reach Arrowtown, no matter which of the three roads you take, you find a sleepy village with one business street and a number of tranquil, tree—lined residential streets. In gold rush days Arrowtown was one of the roughest and toughest of the old miners' settlements, with brothels, gambling dens, and billiard halls.

Not much goes on in the town now. Locals go to Queenstown for most business matters and for shopping. But there are two or three small hotels and quite a number of motels, the Lakes District Museum, a bowling green, a school, three churches, a library, fire station, and an old gaol. It's a quaint, historic town, and one of the prettiest' in New Zealand.

The Stone Cottage is one of a row of century-old miners' cottages on sycamore—canopied Buckingham Street. It has been a tearoom for many years, and now serves delicious New Zealand country-style breakfasts and lunches, along with their specialty, Devonshire tea. The date scones melt in your mouth. They serve quiches, soups, homemade pastries, and many vegetarian dishes. (Open 7 days, 8:30 to 4:30).

On our last visit I had a happy surprise. My article, "The Making of Memories in New Zealand", published in the L.A. Times travel section last year, was framed and displayed on the wall. That was a big thrill for me.

DRIVE ON SOUTH ISLAND FIRST

A suggestion from us: If you're new to left—hand driving, it's great to fly direct to Christchurch and tour South Island first. Traffic is so light there you'll be well prepared to drive on more populous North Island when you cross the Straits (tho' traffic isnt heavy on North Island by American standards).

BUS TOURS - AUCKLAND

From Bill Harvey, a new Kiwi friend of ours, comes this:

"While in Auckland have you traveled on, or seen, the Free Fun Bus? Daily during summer (late Dec., all of Jan. and Feb.) it travels around the waterfront as far as Achilles Point. Trips are of one and 1/2 hour duration. You can go on an early bus, stay the day and return on a later bus, ALL FREE."

Also there is a United Airlines blue double decker bus on which, for $5, you can go around to the various sights, such as Motat, Microworid, Kelly Tarltons Underwater World, etc. This bus runs every day of the year. You have to pay for the various attractions in addition to the bus fare.

KIWI TV NETWORK 3

The recently licensed privately owned commercial broadcast- ing system for NZ plans to be on the air in late March or early April of 1989. The goal is for 'round the clock programming, but in the beginning, the broadcast day will run from 6 or 7 a.m. to midnight. News, current affairs, family shows and sitcoms will be the bill of fare as far as home production is concerned. The network has a deal with NBC in the U.S. for news programs, sports programming and documentaries and will draw heavily from CBS International and Channel 4 in Britain. Netwbrk 3 anticipates 28% original programming vs. acquired programs, but the ultimate goal is about 35% locally produced material. (VARIETY Magazine).

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

As a long—time, confirmed and probably incurable kiwiphile, I have read and re-read the first edition of "Kiwiphile File". What a great idea. Knowing there are others out there who share a love of this beautiful country makes the time between visits more bearable. On my last visit in May '88 I made some finds that I'm passing along to be used or not, as you see fit. You have finally given me an outlet for all of the wonderful things I learned but had no one to tell. Keep up the good work.

Historical Bed and Breakfast Inns

I have enclosed a list of Bed and Breakfast Inns that are located in historic homesteads and country settings. I stayed in three of the six, California House, Eliza's Manor House and Hulbert House and each was unique and lovely in its own way as were the hosts. Most of the furnishings were antiques and there were fluffy warm comforters, fresh flowers, great breakfasts and good coffee . In the past I've found it hard to find a good cup of coffee in New Zealand but these hosts have a real touch.

Probably the most memorable evening at one of these inns was at Hulbert House in Queenstown. Fellow guests, a young honey- mooning couple, returned from a day of fishing with both salmon and enormous rainbow trout. Owner Ted Sturt immediately went into action. First he opened a bottle of wine with which we toasted the catch and then he put us all to work preparing a feast. After a trip to the garden for fresh fennel he stuffed the fish with lemon and the fresh herbs and put it on to bake while he mashed potatoes with mint, steamed fresh vegetables and lit the candles in the elaborate, antique silver candlesticks. We enjoyed the meal by fire and candlelight and were sure there had never been a nicer evening.

Other Accommodations:

I would highly recommend the Willowbank Motel just outside of Greymouth on the main road to Westport. It is convenient, reasonable (around $6ONz per night) and was for me a real haven at the end of a long day of driving. The owners Ted and Lois Gutberlet were friendly and helpful and I found lovely homemade cookies as well as the usual bottle of milk waiting for me.

Judy Miller, Hawthorne, Calif.

LATEST ON QUEENSTOWN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Word from our friend and correspondent Richard Croft in TePuru, NZ, is that according to what he reads, locals are voicing strong objections to the possible siting of an inter- national airport at Queenstown, because of noise pollution and other physical limitations. An alternative site to the south alongside the lake is being considered. There are other problems involving loss of revenue at Christchurch International Airport, and immigration/customs difficulties.

If you wish to make comments regarding the airport at Queenstown, write to Hon. Jonathan Hunt, Minister of Tourism, and/or Hon. Bill Jeffries, Minister of Civil Aviation, both c/o Parliament Buildings, Wellington. They would be interested in our ideas as tourists.

NEW ZEALAND BIKING TOURS

Backcountry Bicycle Tours offers 8-day and 15-day biking tours of New Zealand in February and March 1989. Bikers will travel on back roads, and sleep and enjoy country dinners in farmhouses. The price of $869US includes lodging, all meals, taxes, support van and guide. The 15-day tour of South Island, at $1,599uS, takes in glaciers, rain forests, lakes and water- falls. Write: Backcountry Bicycle Tours, P. 0. Box 4029-P, Bozeman, Mont. 59772 (tel. 406—586—3556.)

KIDS AND CAMPERVANS - by Pamela Lawler

Last April my husband and I enjoyed visiting New Zealand for the first time with our two daughters, ages 3 and 5. On our Air New Zealand flight the flight attendants gave the little girls books, puzzles, activity booklet, and magic drawing pad, and told us if the children slept through a meal, they would be provided with snacks later.

In Christchurch a Mount Cook Lines campervan awaited us. It was the perfect way for us to travel. The toilet always avail- able was the best feature. We also appreciated having food and kitchen facilities with us. Our campervan was intended for 4 to 6 people, and was perfect for the four of us. We had room to conveniently place our luggage so it was always accessible yet not in our way.

Seat belts were provided at the dining-table and the girls enjoyed playing there while we traveled. The over-cab double bed was great, both for playing and sleeping, and could be curtained off when the girls went to bed so we parents could stay up longer. The table converted to a double bed for us.

The campervan tended to handle poorly in rough weather and had very little power on hills, but these factors helped us to see New Zealand as one should--slowly. It was great to be self- contained, especially with children, and we heartily recommend campervan travel in New Zealand.

KIWI BITS AND BITES

Percy Rent A Car has lower rates than the "majors" and their service is great. Prepaid price includes insurance, and they pick you up at your accommodations. Reserve through N.Z. Central Reservations Office in Los Angeles, ph. 213-338-1538, or through a travel agent.

Don't buy video tapes in NZ. As in most foreign countries, their TV system is different from ours and what you bring home wont play on your set. (This is not true for audio tapes.)

Air New Zealand has banned smoking on all its domestic flights.

INTERVIEWS WITH AMERICAN EMIGRES

In preparation for a future article on why and how Americans have emigrated to New Zealand, I compiled a brief summary of facts garnered from my interviews. If you are interested in this information, please send $1.00 and a stamped, self-addressed envelope.

FROMMER'S DOLLARWISE TRAVELER

For more than 30 years Frommer Books has offered a travel club to budget travelers. The name has been changed from the $35-A-Day Travel Club to The Dollarwise Travel Club. For a yearly fee of $18 ($20 outside the US) you receive a quarterly newsletter and discounts on all guidebooks they publish, as well as opportunities for hospitality exchanges. Write: Frommers Dollarwise Travel Club, Inc., Prentice Hall Trade Division, One Gulf + Western Plaza, 15th Floor, New York NY 10023.

THANKS FOR YOUR LETTERS AND N.Z. TRAVEL HINTS.

WE CAN USE MORE FOR THE MARCH KIWIphile FILE!

UNTIL NEXT TIME, KIA ORA!