Volume II, Number 2

December 1989

(-phile: (Greek--philos, loving) meaning one who loves, likes, or is favorably disposed to - Webster)

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, NEW ZEALAND !

In 1840 the native Maori chiefs signed a treaty of partnership with representatives of Queen Victoria, then Queen of England and the British Empire, to bring New Zealand Into being; therefore, 1990 has been declared party year in celebration of the nation's 150th birthday. On February 6th a re-enactment of the signing of the treaty will take place in the lovely Bay of Islands region. The year also marks 1,000 years of Maori settlement in the islands of New Zealand.

The year will bring the 150th jubilees of the country's two major cities, Auckland and Wellington, and the anniversaries of various other social and political events. More than one hundred international conferences, conventions, arts and sporting events have been planned to coincide with the birthday celebrations. One such special event is the 75th ANZAC Day Anniversary of the (Gallipoli Landings during World War 1 to be held April 25th in Wellington and throughout the country.

One of the many interesting sporting events planned for the year is the Speight's Coast-to-Coast Triathlon (Feb. 2-4), which involves participants running from coast to coast of the South Island. There will also be the World Polynesian Outrigger Canoe Championships in late January.

In November of 1990 the Otago Goldfields Heritage Celebrations of the New Zealand 1880's goldrush will begin in Dunedin when the old Cobb and Co. gold coach follows the route of the old prospectors.

BY RAIL THROUGH NEW ZEALAND

The enthusiastic words of novelist Fletcher Knebel, when he wrote about traveling New Zealand by railroad in the New York Times some time back, are no less relevant today. He penned: "For those who like time warps, encapsulated journeys, dollops of nostalgia, friendly service, a toy-in-the-nursery aura, talkative and chummy natives, cheap transportation and gorgeous vistas, the New Zealand Railways offer a perfect ticket near the bottom of the world."

Tastefully refurbished carriages with large picture windows, re-vamped timetables and:the introduction of day trips and low-cost packages have combined to win N.Z. Railways several accolades recently, Including a major tourism award.

Journeys from north to south, including the 12- mile ferry trip from one main island to the other, are popular with visitors. However, many travelers are taking one, or both, of two train trips available from South Island's cathedral city of Christchurch.

The Tranz-Alpine Express from Christchurch to Greymouth over the rugged, snow-peaked backbone of New Zealand gives travelers the total spectrum of South Island scenery. The trip takes five visually splendid hours, and the one-way cost is $US28; return $US56. The Express features sheepskin-covered seats, an early lunch, snacks, hot tea and coffee, and service from the bar.

Another pleasant trip on South Island is from Christchurch to Picton where the inter-island ferry waits to take passengers across to Wellington. The price for the trip is $US3O; $US6O return. Passengers are treated to vistas of rugged mountains and the rocky Kaikoura coastline. On a clear day they might be lucky enough to see whales at play in the deep, pristine waters.

Kaikoura is a fishing village, specializing in plump, sweet lobster--or crayfish, as New Zealanders call them. The settlement was named for a great Maori traveler who stopped here a while to feast on freshly caught crayfish. "Kai" is the Maori word for "eat," and "koura" means "crayfish." After Kaikoura, the Coastal Pacific train takes passengers through the sun-drenched fruit- growing Marlborough region to Picton.

The best travel bargain which offers access to train, coach and ferry services is the New Zealand Trav elpass--eight days for $USI6O, 15 for $US205, 22 for $US225; and extra days at $USI5 each. To connect with those points not served by rail, N.Z. Railways operates a fleet of coaches (buses).

In addition to New Zealand Railways' extensive services, train buffs will be delighted to know they can still experience the power of steam. The Kingston Flyer puffs around the scenic southern end of Lake Wakatipu near the South Island resort town of Quecnstown; while

30 minutes from Auckland International Airport at Glenbrook, a similarly grand engine hauls passengers in faithfully restored carriages of another era.

AKAROA LODGING

Akaroa is a lovely seaside settlement near Christchurch retaining early French characteristics. A subscriber suggests a pleasant place to stay there--the Akaroa Village Inn (Best Western) on Beach Road. It's right on the bay and about a block from the center of the village. They offer a honeymoon suite and a waterbed suite. There is a pleasant dining-room. Two persons $NZ88. Phone NZ(0514)7421.

If you prefer bed and breakfasting, try "Glencar- righ," 7 Stanley Street, Akaroa. This establishment, opened recently by a charming couple we have met, is not yet listed in the guidebooks. Kaye and Mike Stokes have renovated an historic homestead (the old part was built in the 1860's, the new section circa 1900), with their customary good taste and flair for the extraordinary and authentic. It's a fine spot to relax between South Island destinations. I have no prices as yet.

GEOTECHNICAL TOUR OF NEW ZEALAND

Par Avion Travel, 6033 W. Century Blvd., Ste 780, Los Angeles CA 90045, has set up a geotechnical tour of New Zealand January 4-20,1990. The tour has the co- operation of the N.L Geological Survey and the Department of Scientific and Industrial Resources.

Dr. Jack Green, Department of Geology, Cal. State Long Beach, will conduct the tour, which will include unusual destinations such as White Island craters and geysers, geothermal power stations at Wairakei and Ohaaki, an underground gold mine at Waihi, and a deer farm and a glacier at Milford Sound. For more information call or write Par Avion Travel

(213)670-2970.

AMERICAN PIE

This is an interesting item written by New Zealand photographer Geoff Steven, published in the May 27,

1989 NZ Listener INMYVIEW column:

"In the late 60s and early 70s the US was not my favourite country. I was on the streets protesting against American foreign policy in Asia. I'd also given up my photography

because I had a fear of alienating myself from people by placing a block of metal and glass in front of my face and trying to find the perfect frame. By the mid-8O's my attitudes had changed. The US was no longer in Vietnam (issues were not so simple any more) I had come to realise that, politics aside, America, as a country and as a culture, was intimately and permanently linked to our New Zealand lifestyle and values. It needed to be faced on its own terms, but from a New Zealand viewpoint.

"I planned a six-part TV documentaly series, American Pie, a meeting with the American people and their worlds. It was also a chance to reassess my dormant "still" photography. I'd been a film director for a decade, but photography is more intimate. The truth of an instant.

"I was in the US for a total of six months and travelled from North Dakota to Louisiana, from Massachusetts to California, meeting people from all walks of life and from all socio-economic groups. America left me with the impression of a patchwork of seemingly separate countries woven together by ribbons of endless freeways. 'Countries' whose peoples, lifestyles, physical environments and cultural roots are as diverse as those of Europe, but which all seem united in a common national identity and purpose. Regional diversity also gives visual richness to America. I am interested in human beings and their social surroundings, and wherever I went with my still cameras, a frank openness and hospitality was offered by the subjects. Consequently, America has become to me much more human and accessible. It is no longer just an abstract cultural/political/economical force to be either feared or admired from our safe distance. America's people and their strong regional environments also gave me the push to get back into photography.

"Americans as a people have a strong sense of 'self'. This confidence emanating from the subjects I was photographing helped wipe away any doubts I had about voyeurism and alienation. American Pie , the TV series and the stills exhibition, shows a country that, for all its faults and contradictions, has an all-pervasive energy and positiveness from which we could learn a lot."

PERSONAL SERVICE CAR RENTALS

Roberta Conway, who arranges bed and breakfast stays in private homes and on farms, will also arrange car rentals for you. This is with a "local" firm having depots only in Christchurch and Auckland. If visiting both Islands, one has to take the car across on the ferry. However, even with that expense, Roberta says their charge is more reasonable than are those of the major international firms.

Roberta Conway, 11 Clissold Street, Merivale, Christchurch NZ (phone Christchurch 554-806).

GOLDEN COMPANIONS

If you are over 49 years of age and tired of traveling alone and paying higher prices, then Golden Companions is for you!

This travel companion network for the mature traveler boasts more than 500 members from all parts of the United States, as well as a number from Canada and abroad. Membership in the group includes a free mail exchange service, a newsletter, tour discounts, etc. Present members range In age from 50 to 86.

Get a free brochure by writing Golden Compan- ions, P.O. Box 754, Pullman WA 99163.

CYCLE ADVENTURES
:

Here are names and addresses of four different

bicycle touring companies for your comparison: (1)

Backcountry Bicycle Tours, P.O. Box 4029, Bozeman

MT 59772 (406)586-3556. (2) New Zealand Pedaltours,

1311 - 63rd St., Ste 200, Emeryville CA 94608 (415)654- 1879. (3) Vermont Bicycle Touring, Box 711, Bristol VT

05443 (802)453-4811. (4) ParadIse Pedallers (704)335-

8687.

Just to be a bit more adventurous, you might be interested in group motorcycle tours. These are one, two, or three week tours of both South and North Islands, with stays in hotels, lodges or farm homes. Get brochure from any NZTP office or from Te Waipounamu MC Tours, 21 Seaview Rd., Brighton, Box 1442, Dunedin NL

VIDEO TAPE WARNING

Something we learned on our last trip, and confirmed by a warning in the October issue of International Travel News, is that video tapes should be taken through airport metal detectors. Fortunately for us, ours weren't damaged. But please remember that metal detectors damage videotapes, whereas X-rays do not harm them.

Be sure to pack your video camera and all videotapes in your luggage, but try to keep your photo graphic film away from the X-ray machines.

ROTORUA'S THERMAL YOUTH HOSTEL

Looming tall over the stairway of the Colonial Inn in Rotorua is an intricate Maori carving depicting travel to the four corners of the earth. Hostel manager John Bernatovitch, an Englishman who came to New Zealand almost twenty years ago, Is proud of the piece, beautifully crafted from honey-colored totara wood. A local craftsman presented the carving to Bernatovich a few years ago.

The Colonial Inn, one of fifty New Zealand YHA

hostels, offers accommodation to 72 people In various types of rooms--some doubles, some family-sized, and a separate wing with special facilities for the disabled. Thermal heating, readily available in that region, heats the rooms in winter.

Not just budget travelers come to this hostel; they are from all walks of life. With a YHA membership card, accommodations are available at

the Inn at $NZI4 for seniors and $NZ7 for juniors. You are given a comfortable bed with pillow cases and blankets. You can use your own sleeping bag or rent bed linens for a small fee. Laundry facilities are available, and there are two double kitchens. Reservations are necessary In summer (December to February). PH:NZ(073)476-810. Or call NZTP.

NOTE *** NOTE *** NOTE ***

As I sit here on this perfect New Zealand day in Southern California (deep blue sky, fluffy low clouds, fresh clean breeze; alas not typical for us), I am happy to be using a new customized word processing system which allows us to Improve our format. It also gives you more information, as you can see by this issue. Perhaps we will even include color photographs some day soon. It all depends on how quickly our subscription numbers Increase. In this context:

For each person you refer to us, who actually

subscribes to KIWIphile FILE, we'll give you

$1.00 off your renewal.

A KIWI'S-EYE VIEW OF AUSTRALIA

•'A week's holiday In Sydney does wonders for one's sense of national pride. Much as Australians have Improved over the years, their envious admiration of New Zealand remains undisguised. With hungry longing they gaze across the Tasman, wondering if they'll ever be able to match the panache, style and clout of the great little country that gave the world pikelets and No.8 fencing wire." (From Political Diary/Denis Welch . NZ Listener, Aug. 5,1989).

•'New Zealanders who leave for Australia raise the I.Q. of both countries." (Former NZ Prime Minister Robert Muldoon).

BEST RESTAURANT AWARDS

The NZ Listener has announced the winners in the 1989 Listener-Montana Wines Awards competition (copy of which we can send to you for a stamped, self-.

addressed envelope). No eating-house was too small or too out-of-the-way to be considered, so the results are fascinating.

There were four categories and five regions, with a first, second and third In each region of the country. Coming out on top in "Best Licensed Restaurant" category was Tiffany's in Christchurch. "Best BYO" (bring your own bottle) restaurant was Rumours, Rotorua. "Best Provincial" restaurant, Cameron House, Wanganui. "Best NZ Wine List" - Longchamp Room, Regent of Auckland.

(Tip: when you hit Hokitika on South Island's west coast, try to eat at Chez Pierre, supposedly one of the best provincial restaurants in the country. And if you find yourself in the North Island town of Warkworth, you'll find 2 of the 3 top eating places in the Northland--Bridge House and Verandah.)

THE BLACK SWAN

One could say that birds are New Zealand's most colorful natives. Perhaps because predators are few and far between (or were in the past, anyway), there are many varieties of flightless birds in the country. Kiwis and the ancient moa might have been flightless from the first, but others gave up flying after arriving, like the

takahe and the weka.

The black swan, not a native and certainly not flightless, was introduced from Australia as an ornamental waterfowl and is now quite widespread on the larger lakes, lagoons and estuaries.

We saw our first black swans--a pair--far out on South Island's Lake lanthe. We have a picture taken with telephoto lens across the water, with the birds appearing as small, distant black figures--the only visible occupants of the beautiful lake. They seemed to point out the majestic Isolation we were experiencing.

The black swan is all black except for a conspicuous flash of white wing-tips In flight. The bill Is crimson with a white band crossing over the top and a white tip. The bird's call Is musical and flute-like. It whistles when disturbed. The bird feeds on lake-bottom vegetation by "up-ending" Itself.

Their nests are substantial mounds built in co1onies on river or lake shore, often surrounded by tall vegetation but sometimes in the open. Numbers are controlled In some areas by egg-collecting or by disturbance of undesired colonies.

PERSONALIZED PET CARE

A home sitting service which originated in Denver In 1972 has now ballooned to over 60 offices nationwide. If you worry about your pets (or your plants or your home security), you may want to check with this service.

The people employed by Home Sitting Services, Inc., are mature and responsible citizens and are carefully Investigated before being placed on staff. In addition there is always backup available should an emergency arise.

You'll enjoy your weeks in NZ mere knowing the animals you love are cared for with affection and warmth In their own surroundings.

Write: Home Sitting Services, Inc.

5555 DTC Parkway

Englewood CO 80111

QUESTERS NATURE TOURS

The pleasure of travel and the exhilaration of learning combine as you explore North Island, South Island, and remote Stewart Island. Visit Christchurch, Qucenstown, and Auckland. Cruise Milford Sound and the Bay of Islands. See the snow-clad peaks and glaciers of Mount Cook National Park, the hot springs and geysers of Rotorua, the sand dunes of the Auporl Peninsula, and more. New Zealand's tremendously varied habitat and terrain harbor about 1,000 species of flowering plants and 250 species of birds, including many that have lost their powers of flight.

Accommodations are at hotels, lodges, and resorts, with two nights spent on North Island farms. You'll see deer, fur seals, sheep and highland cattle, but mainly you'll see birds--paradise ducks, riflemen, gannets, black swans, penguins, and all the varieties of seabirds around the islands.

QUESTERS WORLDWIDE NATURE TOURS

257 Park Ave. So., New York NY 10010-7369

Tel. (800)468-8668 or (212)673-3120.

HORSE TREK ACROSS SOUTH ISLAND

Horseback riders with a sense of adventure will be Interested in a New Zealand horse trek planned for 1990. This Is your chance to enjoy some of the best riding and most beautiful scenery the world has to offer. You can ride for one, two, or three weeks through the High Country of Canterbury, the Southern Alps, and the rain forests and beaches of the west coast. Nights In shearers' cottages, in huts, bunkhouses, and tents are interspersed with nights In comfortable hotels.

You will be riding during summer In New Zealand, so bring a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Also bring a Jacket and long Johns for chilly nights in the High Country. Carry Insect repellent, chaps, a hardhat,

and boots. In all, your gear should weigh about 35 pounds.

To qualify you must have some riding experience (intermediate or advanced). And you must be between 21 and 65 and weigh less than 200 pounds.

The cost of the trek ranges from $700 to $2,800,

not including airfare, depending on the distance you

choose to ride. For more information, contact Dare

You!, Box 1018, Middleburg VA 22117. You can reserve

a place on the tour through Odyssey Travel (800)333- 8113.

(The above is from International Living . 824 E. Baltimore St., Baltimore MD 21202. Tel. (301)234-0515. Subscription rate $36.)

(Ed. If you are an experienced rider, one of the 5-

or 6-day rides would be an excellent add-on to whatever

type of visit you've planned to the country. Reading the 3 pages of information on the horse treks will make your imagination tingle. Don't hold back--try it!)

AMERICANS IN PARADISE

(#4 of a series)

Tekia and Bill Kridle, originally from Minneapolis/St. Paul, were ensconced in a pleasant, fairly new Christchurch home which they shared with a beautiful, snow-white bundle of Samoyed puppy. The two are

young, attractive, and enthusiastic about what they find in New Zealand.

Their opportunity to spend two or more years in

the country came via an international relocation program carried out by Tekla's employer, one of the

largest computer companies in the US. Previous to moving down, the couple spent two weeks in NZ, courtesy of the company, and had "fallen absolutely in love" with New Zealand.

Bill is employed as a tennis coach, ajob he can do almost anywhere, and at the time of our interview, he was also working on getting his real estate license.

Would Bifi and Tekla like to stay on in New Zealand? When we talked with them they had been in Christchurch only a few months, so it was too soon to judge. But they did mention the possibility of retiring there, many years hence.

What have they found there that impresses them so greatly? Mostly it's the scenery (and Tekla especially loves the sheep). They love being so near mountains and ocean. They appreciate the genuinely sincere and courteous people who live there.

They miss the abundant goods for shopping at home, and some modern conveniences are less readily available (and more expensive). Bill mentioned finding it more difficult to eat healthily in NZ. One reason for this is that most food packages and cans are not as well labeled as at home. At the same time, he notes that New Zealanders themselves seem to be in good physical condition and attractive, with almost no obesity. Fitness

seems to be a Kiwi way of life.

Tekla spoke of noticing that there is much less emphasis on youth, glamour and beauty in NZ as compared with the US. There is a much healthier attitude there in that regard, in advertising and on television. She spoke of the male Kiwi's attitude toward women. In business, she said that the men of about 40 or younger seem okay, but that older men tend to talk over her head as though she's not there.

Tekia had gone back to the US on business a few times since moving down under, and she found herself anxious to get back to NZ. She felt hassled while in the US, with many Americans seeming loud and rude.

At times they feel somewhat isolated and a bit cut off from American news sources. But Bill is favorably impressed with the NZ health facilities, noting there is much more emphasis on alternative health care.

Bill and Tekla feel that Americans considering a life in NZ should realize that they must look forward to a simpler lifestyle there, without the distractions of abundant TV offerings, theater, etc. One must read more, and one must be willing to practice patience. It takes a different set of values and priorities to live there happily--and it's not for everyone.

KIWI BITS AND BITES

• See the "Big Five" Auckland attractions by taking the United Airlines explorer bus. All day $7 (child $4). Tickets from downtown airline terminal, from driver at other points.

• The Christchurch Transport Board (CCFB) offers several bus tours of the city and environs, from their kiosk in Cathedral Square. Prices for adults begin at $NZ 12 up to $NZ2O for the Banks Peninsula trip to Akaroa. Phone NZ794-600.

• We hear from one of our NZ correspondents that the inevitable has happened: a serious bunji jumping accident at Queenstown. The activity is now under scrutiny.

• Write or phone for brochure on South Island cycling/rafting, skiingftafting or tramping extravaganza. The Northwest Passage Outing Club, Inc., 1130 Greenleaf Ave., Wilmette IL 60091. Tel. (312)256-4409.

• If you have access to International Living , address given under "South Island Horseback Trek" above, you will find their September 1989 issue full of information on New Zealand and Australia. I'm pleased to say the editor included my article, "Making a Life on Peaceful South Island."

• With respect for the peace and quiet of New Zealand's Southern Alps, Ansett New Zealand now operates British Aerospace 146 Whisper Jet aircraft

between Auckland and Qucenstown. Call Ansett USA (213)642-7487.

* From the Society for the Advancement of Travel for the Handicapped comes a list of the "best airlines for the disabled." Three lines flying to and from the US to NZ are included: United, Qantas, and Air New Zealand.

* Have you heard that Panasonic will be selling a universal VCR which will play and record in all formats (including New Zealand's PAL system)? It'll be expen- sive.

* Two items from a reader: (1) Golf courses are everywhere in NZ, even in the smallest towns, and fees are as low as $5.00. Visitors are welcome (to squash courts as well). (2) NZ sheep have their teeth checked twice a year. When the teeth go, they go. If they can't crop grass they can't feed themselves.

(Ed. For organized golf tours of NZ, contact Paul Walker, New Zealand Golf Excursions, 2041 Rosecrans Ave., No.103, El Segundo CA 90245.)

* If you're concerned when you see what certainly looks like nuclear cooling towers just outside the North Island town of Wairakei, rest assured they are not. New Zealand has not gone nuclear. These are cooling towers for the geothermal power station. They cool the steaming water before releasing it into the river.

* Australia and New Zealand have offered to shelter the Inhabitants of the Cook Islands, Fiji, Kiribati and Tuvalu If the greenhouse effect raises sea levels to the point where the Islands would have to be evacuated. (From LA. Times)

SUCCESSFUL ISLAND REGENERATION

The small island of Tiritiri Matangi In the Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park, not far offshore from Auckland, has had its soil compacted so much by centuries of cattle grazing that trees could not regenerate. Most of the island's original forests had turned into grasslands.

Now the hillside Is burgeoning with Indigenous trees, and bird calls are resounding once again. The Park authorities are protecting the Island and have declared It an open sanctuary where the public Is Invited to walk and watch birds, and even to help with reforestation work if they so desire.

A towering lighthouse can be visited which. offers a magnificent view of North Island and the maritime park's 47 other Islands.

Work has been accomplished with cooperation of the park board, World Wildlife Fund supporters, other conservation groups, service organizations and sports. clubs. So far, 130,000 saplings of 38 different specIes have been planted, and the goal Is to plant an average of 25,000 trees each year in order to bring the island back to its near-natural condition.

With the help of the Department of Conservation several species of endangered birds have been returned to the island, in particular the North Island saddleback,

whose numbers have increased to around 100 birds. It's hoped that the kiwi, a species much in need of a safe environment, can be Introduced on Tiritiri Matangi. Other birds that can be seen and heard on the island are the bellbird, the red-crowned parakeet, the stitchbird, and the brown-tailed duck.

STUDENT EMPLOYMENT IN NZ

Two sources for help in getting jobs in New Zeal- and are: (1) Student Travel Bureau of the New Zealand University Students Assoc. (NZUSA) P.O. Box 9744, Courtenay P1, Wellington NZ. This is for catering and agricultural Jobs from May to October.

(2) Willing Workers on Organic Farms, 186 Collingwood St., Nelson NZ.

FLY AMERICAN TO NZ

Just in: It has been announced that beginning February 4, 1990, American Airlines will fly three times a week between Dallas/Fort Worth and Los Angeles to Auckland. Specific schedules and days of operation will be announced soon.

KIWI LETTER BOX

Hello! Please send four Issues (a 1-yr. subscription) of KiWiphile FILE to my husband, a New Zealander who was mistakenly born In New England Instead. I have enclosed a $6.00 m.o.

M.LS., Maine

Now I know what I am! . a KiWiphile! What a perfect name. You have found an East-Coast sister here! I have taken seven horse treks in NZ. Every time I leave, my husband fears I won't return. Sign me up!

S.S., Virginia

FAMOUS NZ DOLPHINS - PELORUS JACK

This was the name given to a dolphin which from 1888 to 1912 used to meet and escort ships over a certain stretch of water across Admiralty Bay, north of the French Pass (used by ships traveling between Wellington and Nelson). So regular was the dolphin in its habits that on 26 September 1904 it was protected by Order in Council under the Sea Fisheries Act and remained so until Its disappearance. It is thought to have been the first individual sea creature protected in this way by any country.

Pelorus Jack, whose sex was never determined, was Identified from photographs, probably correctly, as a Risso's dolphin, a species not common In New Zealand waters. It was his habit to meet the steamers near Cape Francis and travel with them (playing about the bow and in some accounts rubbing against the plates) as far as

Collinet Point near French Pass; or likewise in the opposite direction. In spite of his name he did not frequent nearby Pelorus Sound, and local residents familiar with his habits assert that he never went through French Pass.

After his protection, wide publicity made Pelorus Jack world famous; postcards based on photographs were much used, and many tourists, including the author Frank T. Bullen, made the trip to Nelson specially to see him, without being disappointed. A short movie film exists. He was often with the ship as long as 20 minutes (the time to cross Admiralty Bay) and was said by local residents to prefer the faster ships. George Webber, a sheep farmer of French Pass, in boyhood met the steamers twice weekly to exchange mailbags and on occasion had to push Pelorus Jack away from his dinghy with an oar to avoid capsize due to rubbing. Webber's accounts corroborated by many others, establish that the dolphin continued in its habits for 24 years. Since this approximates to the normal life span of a dolphin, Pelorus Jack (or Pelorus Jill) was probably an infant in 1888, possibly an infant bereaved before weaning which might explain in part the unusual behaviour pattern. Eyewitness accounts stating that Pelorus Jack "rubbed against the ship" must be regarded as doubtful. Others, referring to "motionless swimming", are precise descriptions of a dolphin riding the invisible "pressure wave" which is formed below the surface by a ship's forward motion, and suggest that Pelorus Jack, like innumerable other dolphins was enjoying getting a ride from ships that passed through his home range, the regularity being due to the frequency of ships in that area.

The officially accepted identification of Pelorus Jack was made by D. C. Bates who also instigated the formal protection. After several false reports of his disappearance (one of which was contradicted by a "Personal" item in the Weekly Press, 9 October 1912) Pelorus Jack was last definitely seen about November-December 1912. A song, "Pelorus Jack", was widely sung by school- children 20 years later, and for many years a brand of chocolate fish was known as "Pelorus Jack."

(From NZTP library)

BOOK REVIEW:

New Zealand by Motorhome by David Shore and Patty Campbell, Pelican International Guide Series, PELICAN, 1101 Monroe Street, Gretna LA 70053.

This is a good book, well written with a light, whimsical touch. Anyone even thinking about a motor- home visit to New Zealand should read the book. (In my opinion, this and Jane King's New Zealand Hand book are all one needs In the way of guidebooks to NZ.)

After covering all the basics on how to get to NZ, and a bit about the country's history, the authors then launch into the subject of motorhomes. They give a comparison of renting or buying, with illustrations of

the various types available, with advantages and disadvantages of each.

Detailed information is included on how to find a motor camp, what to expect when you get there, Kiwi

campground etiquette, and campervan "choreography." The food chapter makes for delicious reading, and

is helpful for non-motorhomers who sometimes enjoy the adventure of shopping for food and cooking it in

'their motel kitchens. Details are given on various fruits and veggies, and there are 8 pages of recipes which you can also use when you get back home.'

The book isn't especially well Illustrated--could

have done with some colored photo pages. Aside from that small minus, it's a good, perhaps necessary, addition to your luggage.

Thank you fbr mentioning KIWIphile FILE when making inquiries to other publications, NZTP, travel

agents etc. We need recognition!

GREAT EXPEDITIONS MAGAZINE

A mine qf information, Great Expeditions offers useful tips on budget travel, particularly to remote parts of theworld. The publication is definitely uncommercial, and encourages travelers to get off the beaten path, to get to know the peoples and environments of other countries. The two most recent issues have featured items on New Zealand, with more to come.

Craig 0. Henderson, the publisher, is offering KIWIfile FlLE subscribers a special discount price for GE and a free sample copy. Write to him at Box 8000-411, Abbotsford BC Canada V2S 6Hl

[phone 604-852-6170], or at Box 8000-411, Sumas WA 98295- 8000.

BIRD CALL OF THE WEEK

Starting back in 1973, dozens of New Zealand's bird sounds were recorded by a NZ National Radio announcer and a Wild Life Service expert, then were put on the air each day. The practice has continued, and now 20 seconds are allowed each morning right before the 7 AM and 9AM news broadcasts for the (edited) bird call of the week. Tune in and you'll hear the variety of birds.

Occasional efforts to remove the bird calls (or songs) from National Radio have been fiercely resisted by bird lovers, ornithologists, and most regular listeners. Another bit of New Zealand culture for us to enjoy.

KIWI TALK

(This is in response to our letter which enclosed

a recent LA. Times article re possible racial problems In

New Zealand. Also in connection with a query from a

New Zealander regarding the dangers of travel to

Phoenix AZ, and the rumors of violence in the US.)

"I can understand your apprehension in this matter but people must keep a sense of perspective. Unfortunately the problem Is real and worldwide and a fact of life, but If you let it get to you enough you wouldn't walk down the street to the corner store. In my opinion It's all to do with attitude. If you are outgoing, reach out, smile, talk to people, they will almost Invariably reciprocate and assist you. If you are tentative, suspicious, unsmiling, withdrawn, you may even attract negative people.

"Many of our friends here years ago thought we were a bit mad going to LA, and our lady hostess In Playa del Rey was shocked when we told her we'd spent the day strolling in black neighborhoods like Inglewood, Torrance, or Long Beach, and yet we had a ball.

"These are the simple rules to follow of course, especially in the larger urban areas, Keep your valuables in a safe place, use small denomination traveler's checks, don't flaunt bulging wallets in front of a group. Don't wander round unfamiliar alleyways or back lanes In the downtown areas at any time, but especially at night, and so on. Mingle with groups--be aware of who's around you without being paranoid If a rough-looking bearded guy (Maori?) appears alongside you. He might draw a knife, but is more likely to be one of the nicer guys you met on tour if you happen to get talking.

"Rightly or wrongly, many people still perceive Americans and also Japanese as being well-heeled on average, and perhaps a bit naive as travellers coming from a more sophisticated, packaged, consumer- oriented society. They are perceived as not being quite as self-sufficient and adventurous as us, but that can be a misconception too, as I have met some who are exactly that. We are all prone to pigeonhole or typecast people!

"As for the LA Times article, take what you like from It. It s brief generalisations do nothing for a complex subject. The whole matter is about real or perceived injustices In the course of the colonialisation process. A radical minority and a somewhat more compassionate Labour Government seeking to address these issues heightens sensitivities and brings the racists and extremists out of the closet, plus It makes for an emotive political Issue for those who seek to use It for. their own ends. Intermarriage and another 50 years will go a long way to solving the problem along with more tolerance and understanding. There are some excellent books available on the subject.

"Incidentally, your 'Maori problems' could just as easily be called the 'British' or 'whites' problems."

R.C., Coromandel Penin., NZ

AUSTRALIAN ENVIRONMENTAL "RATBAG"

(From a NZ newspaper, Oct. 22, '89)

"Australian Ian Cohen, proud to be called an environmental ratbag, has been arrested more than 20 times. In 1986, he took 'direct action' to an extreme when he surfed through a cordon of police boats in Sydney harbour and clung to the bow of the giant US destroyer Oldendorl for a perilous five-mihute ride.

"During his political campaign as an independent candidate in 1987, he donned gas mask, wetsuit and rubber gloves to take water samples near the sewerage outlet at Bondi Beach, which he then presented to Parliament.

"Cohen, who founded the Sydney and Brisbane peace squadrons, places New Zealand's anti-nuclear policy next to the influence of Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev as the most significant recent events in terms of world peace.

"Banning American nuclear ships from port rang through the corridors of the peace movement on a global scale and was a tremendous boost to morale,' he says."

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