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Volume
Ill,
Number 2
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DECEMBER 1990
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NEW
ZEALAND IN DECEMBER
For further information about the following, please call the New Zealand Tourism
Office:
(213)395-7480 or (800)388-54941(800)388-KIWI.
Christmastime in New Zealand... Down under, where the seasons are
reversed,
Christmas is a mid-summer affair. New Zealanders usually eschew the traditional
Christmas
fare of turkey. trimmings and plum pudding for beach and barbecue. Leading hotels offer visitors a more formal Christmas setting where fresh meats, seafoods, fruits, vegetables, and wines make for truly New Zealand-style festive fare.
New
Zealand families, renowned for their warm hospitality, also welcome visitors
into
their homes for the holiday season, under farm and homestay programs.
Tauherenikau International Invitation Horse Trials.
Dec. 1-2..
. Top United States equestrians, including twice World Champion Bruce Davidson, will be in NZ in December to compete in this international horse trialing event. The Wairarapa region. famous
for its
scenery, wildlife and wineries, hosts the
two-day
carnival-style trials where non-horse activities include open air theater, rock and roll bands, country music, wine tasting, foodstalls, arts and crafts displays, and special
events
for children.
Nissan-Mobil
500 Car
Races. Dec. 1-2...
The pace picks up on the streets of Wellington the
first
weekend of December as international formula and saloon racing
drivers
break the speed limit in their efforts to
cross
the finish line first Wellington, New Zealand's capital
city,
is draped around hills and a natural,
deep-water harbor making for an exciting and scenic car race venue.
20th International
Ornithological
Congress. Dec. 2- 9 ...
Ornithologists head for New Zealand early December for a week-long conference in the
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Garden City of Christchurch. A Pacific nature film festival, photographic challenge and bird stamp exhibition will be held in conjunction with the conference. Organizers have also arranged special tours to enable visitors to see rare New Zealand birds like the kiwi, kea, tui, takahe, and weka in their natural habitats.
World Indigenous Peoples Conference. Dec. 7-12...
Over 400 delegates from the US
and
Canada will attend this conference in Ngaruawahia, home of the Queen of New Zealand's
native
Maori people, Dame Te Atarangikaahu. The conference will cover subjects ranging from the importance of retaining and nurturing indigenous languages, to indigenous music, drama, dance, oratory, and art.
NEW ZEALAND TOURISM OFFICE ON THE MOVE
An expanded New Zealand Tourism
Office
moves to a new address on November 5, 1990. The new address, and phone and
fax
numbers are:
New Zealand Tourism Office
501
Santa
Monica Blvd #300
Santa
Monica CA 90401
Ph: (213) 395-7480
Fax: (213) 395-5453
The office's toll-free number, (800) 388-5494, remains
the
same.
KIWI ARACHNIDS IN HOLLYWOOD
Disney Studios went to New Zealand to
cast
spider (arachnid) roles for their horror film "Arachnophobia." The studio needed hundreds of the hairy. bark-eating Delana Cancerides spiders. The plant protection unit of the DSIR (Dept of Scientific and Industrial Research) was pleased to pack them up and ship them to the movie capital.
This spider, called the Avondale spider in NZ, is a native of Australia. In the 1950's a
few
of them began appearing under houses in the Auckland suburb of Avondale. The spider is harmless, unlike the brightly-colored katipo, found only on the west
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coast of the North Island.
Not surprisingly, spiders cannot be trained. However, the Avondale spider has exceptionally long front legs. These long legs were used to create quite a chilling effect as the camera focused in on them appearing over the tops of objects in the spider's way. For film purposes the creature was moved in the proper direction by using hot-air guns and vibrating wires, and by painting no-go areas with slippery wax. For other action, they were dropped in the right spot at the right moment.
AMERICANS IN PARADISE (No. 7
in
a series)
Many of us Kiwiphiles have in the back of our minds a picture of ourselves enjoying the tranquility of New Zealand during our retirement years. Unfortunately such a bonus will come to few of us.
Walterine Gray is one American who is now living in Christchurch as a retired woman. She is a naturalized citizen of the US, born in Canada. For many years she devoted herself to a family as well as a busy nursing career. She and her husband retired in 1972 to Leisure World in California, and ten years later moved to another beautiful and well- known retirement community in Oregon.
Mrs. Gray's daughter, meanwhile, was living in New Zealand where her husband, also American, had a job teaching at the University of Canterbury in Christchurch. With two children they felt New Zealand was an ideal place to live. They've been in Chnstchurch for twelve years now and have no intention of ever leaving.
Upon the loss of her husband in 1984, Mrs. Gray was urged by her daughter to move to NZ also. With considerable trepidation she agreed. stipulating that she must have her own
residence. A
home was found for her in a complex in downtown Christchurch near Hagley Park and the peaceful Avon River. Bishopspark consists of a mid-rise apartment building of 28 units and 40 cottages spaced around a very large gracious home which is the former residence of the Bishop of the Church of England. The home, built in 1925, is an impressive building of Georgian architecture and is the hub of the complex.
Residents live independent lives in their cottages or units, but have the security of nursing facilities
in
the home if needed. There are about 100 residents and no further enlargement of the community is expected.
Walterine Gray graciously obtained permission for the two of us to visit Bishopspark. She entertained us at lunch in the bright, beautifully furnished community dining-room. The food was delightful and the other residents seemed friendly and contented.
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After lunch we visited Walterine
in
her charming cottage. She has everything there she could want, with living-dining room, kitchen, bath, and a cozy bedroom on the first floor. Up a flight of stairs is a large sunlit loft-bedroom where her granddaughter stays when she visits.
Walterine told us that in spite of a rather difficult emotional adjustment
in
the beginning, she has not regretted the move. She has been back in the US twice, but has been grateful to return to her cozy
little
home at Bishopspark. Gardening in the warm months
is
an activity she enjoys, and she belongs to a
"Sightseers" Club which offers a
long pne-day trip each month.
What doesn't she like in New Zealand? Most of all, she dislikes having to pay two income taxes on her small fixed income--one to NZ and one to the US. She finds clothing expensive in NZ, especially shoes. She misses Sears and Penney's. She finds the Christchurch winters cold and windy.
So, you see--it can be done. It is possible to spend one's later years enjoying New Zealand. Walterine Gray, a strong, very brave and serene lady, is doing
it.
WORDS ON WINE (part 2)
By Andrew Trapani, Ph.D., Pennsylvania
Here are notes on some of my favorite wines sampled during my March 1990 visit to NZ. (All prices are .NZ$ and include GST).
White wines:
Morton Estate Winery, 1988 Chardonnay (Hawkes Bay), $17.30. Highly perfumed: citrus and butterscotch. Thick bodied. Lemony on the palate.
Villa Maria, 1988 Chardonnay (Auckland area). $13.90. Apple scents, crisp, light. Hint of butterscotch in the mouth. Well made and a good value.
Weingut Seifried,
1989
Chardonnay (Nelson). $13.50. Thick and buttery. Good crisp finish. Another good value.
Esk Valley Winery, 1989 Sauvignon Blanc (Hawkes Bay).
$13.95.
Grassy scents mixed with
spice
and vanilla. Powerful bouquet and taste. Good balance of
flavors.
My favorite.
Stoneleigh, 1989 Sauvignon Blanc (Hawkes Bay). $15.65. Grapey, grassy bouquet Very fruity. Hints of oak and smokiness.
Red wines
Collard Brothers Ltd., 1985 Cabernet/Merlot (Henderson). $17.70. Powerful aroma of chocolate and green peppers. Mild tannins. Fairly smooth now, but might improve with a little age.
Esk Valley Winery, 1987 Cabernet/Merlot (Hawkes Bay). $18.60. Light in color. Bouquet is not intense. Smooth on the palate with oak and pepper accents. Lighter styled for current drinking.
Vidal, 1986 Cabernet Sauvignon (Hawkes
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Bay). $13.90.
Deep
red color. Beny scents and a touch of oak. Probably close to its peak now.
**For more information: While in NZ I found an excellent inexpensive paperback bock on NZ wines:
k Guide to New Zealand Wine
, by Peter Saunders. It is published by Wine Castle Ltd.. P.O. Box 9527, Newmarket, Auckland NZ, NZ phone (09)573-178. Also check the NZ Tourism Office and other local tourist centers near the wine regions for brochures and maps. I would welcome the chance to compare notes with other readers. I can be reached in care of the KiWIphile FILE.
FROM AIR NEW ZEALAND
Air New Zealand has made major changes in its winter timetable, as of October 28, 1990. The airline introduced daily non-stop service from Los Angeles to Auckland. Three of the services will be operated by Boeing 747-400 aircraft, scheduled for delivery in November, and will provide onward service to Sydney. The carrier has been operating five non-stop flights per week.
Effective in November. the airline's Sunday B747 service from Auckland to Vancouver is operating via Honolulu instead of Los Angeles. The flight arrives Vancouver at 0740 hours allowing for convenient connections to major Canadian cities.
MY VOYAGE TO STEWART ISLAND
by Judy Miller
The pilot finished loading the remaining cargo and our small bags into the back of the plane. then came around to make sure the door was safely latched and our seat
belts
fastened before climbing inside. One engine, then the other, coughed and roared, looking like twin buzz saws spinning absurdly close to the tiny cockpit My eardrums vibrated as we gathered speed and lifted off the short airstrip. Stewart Island dropped beneath us
as
the remnants of the gale
force
winds
which
had battered southern New Zealand for days bounced our small aircraft and we headed over Foveaux Strait toward the airport at Invercargill. My feet began to thaw and I
started
to feel better about the past two days.
Stewart Island was on our "A" list of things to do on this trip. My traveling companion and I had both been to New Zealand on other occasions, but never had the time to come this far south.
We had spent four days in a lovely motel overlooking Lake Te Anau from where we visited both Mitford and Doubtful Sounds, and were looking forward to seeing New Zealand's third island. The scenic drive south from Manapouri to Invercargill on Highway
99
was
worth
the small amount of extra time
it
added to the trip. The snow was low on the mountains
as we
skirted the Takatimu Range through
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Tuatapere and Riverton into lnvercargill. The further south we went the
worse
the weather became until the squalls were passing over the road horizontally. At times
we
came to a near stop as-visibility dropped to zero during a particularly vicious gust. It was becoming more and more apparent that the chances
of
getting to the island were marginal as conditions on the Foveaux Strait are sometimes rough even in fine weather.
Since we were taking the ferry to the island and returning
by
air, we had the logistical problem of where to stay and where to leave the car. We drove through lnvercargill and on to Bluff, a quiet little community with views across the bay to the aluminum smelter in Tiwai, south to Stewart Island and beyond. It was exciting to know that the nearest land in that direction was Antarctica. We located the ferry terminal but decided to return to Invércargill for the night and take the H&H coach to Bluff in time for the 9 am ferry departure. We took fast food back to our motel, listened to the local weather reports and hoped for the best,
The weather wasn't much better in the morning, but we decided to take our chances and see if the ferries were running. The weather report was not good and for some time
it
was doubtful
if
the trip would go that day. At about 8:30 they made a go decision and at 9 we pulled away from the dock in a driving rain. As we left the shelter of the harbor, gusts of wind forced us sideways in the water as the swell drove us up and down. We had all we could do just to hang on and not be flung from one side of the cabin to the other. I decided to watch the proceedings from the bridge and made my way topside where I took a firm grip on a handy rail, spread my feet and did my best to act nonchalant I acquired a great deal of respect for the crew who apparently thought nothing was out of the ordinary. I was particularly impressed with the
captain
who
stayed
on his feet. steered with one hand, and drank a cup of coffee (without spilling a drop) all at the same time. As I grew used to the roll of the boat I relaxed but at the same time kept my eyes on the horizon which was the only thing in sight not moving. I wasn't very successful. I never was a good sailor and this trip wasn't going to change that
It is my personal opinion that no one should ever be allowed to cook anything aboard a boat, but this crew obviously had different ideas. The smell of baking meat pies rose from the galley and I bolted from the bridge, my foil-lined bag clutched in hand. I had just made up my mind that I didn't care if I lived or died when we hit the rock. For a few seconds several unpleasant scenarios ran through my mind, and I quickly decided that in actual fact I did care. When I heard no "abandon ship" orders, I went back to being miserable, and we arrived safely in Oban in the middle of a driving rain storm.
The walk to the Shearwater Inn wasn't long,
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but we had to take shelter several times as the squall line passed through. We arrived wet and tired and rethinking our "A" list However, after some rest and a couple of hours to dry out, we felt more like exploring. A short walk took us back to town and a stop at the South Seas Hotel to inquire about dinner arrangements. We were told they weren't serving dinner that evening as they had no guests in-house. Having already declined dinner at the Shearwater and facing imminent starvation, we quickly asked the barman what he would suggest. What he suggested was the wonderful four-course lunch that is served daily in the South Seas dining room. We sat next to the large picture window and enjoyed one of the best meals we have eaten in New Zealand. Several entrees were offered. The blue cod was delicious. (To be continued in next issue.)
KIWI LETTER
BOX
I'm enjoying the KlWlphile FILE so much.
I had my second trip to New Zealand in May 1990. In 1986 I spent two weeks in Australia and two weeks in NZ in July. Even though it was the middle of winter and not too much was going on, I loved every minute. It's so charming and so different from home.
On my first tour I couldn't get out to Milford Sound due to snow slides. This time it was foggy and rainy, but I still had a wonderful time. I will go back to Milford the third time when it's summer there. I saw Doubtful Sound also, and the sandflies didn't bother me at all, in either place. There must have been 5,000 waterfalls on the way to Mitford. The bold Kea birds
were all over the buses and cars.
I
went over with no hotel reservations. In
some places the taxi drivers were kind enough to take me to inexpensive B&B's. I seldom paid over NZ$35 a night, and all were neat and clean and a good breakfast was served. In Queenstown I found
flyers
at the visitors' bureau advertising inexpensive accommodations. Rented a room
for
3 nights at NZ$22 per night. Queenstown
has
grown in four years. but is still lovely.
In Picton I rented a room for NZ$30. No heat; toilet was down the hall. There are several B&B's in Picton.
all
very reasonable. A lovely town with a
nice
park for kiddies.
On May 15 I took the Silver Fern train from Wellington to Auckland. Very tired, so I treated myself to a nice hotel. I walked my legs off.
I saw everything I missed in '86. The bus, train and plane people were as lovely as ever—feed
you
at every turn. The whole country is so pretty
and
green. I
love it--and
I shall return.
Thank you for a great paper. and for the litter bag. It is in my car.
Mary C. Baldwin, California
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VOICE OF A KIWI
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by Richard Croft
I must have been born with itchy feet because pictures and stories of faraway places always fascinated me. After being orphaned at age 15 during WW2, the open road beckoned. By age 17 the urge became IrresIstible. The open spaces of the deep
South seemed to my youthful mind to be like some unexplored continent of the Old World. After packing
most of my worldly possessions into a couple of old leather suitcases, I was off. The boundless optimism of youth easily outweighed any misgivings I may have had about my immaturity. This was life -- I was free.
Cook Strait, that narrow storm arid tide-racked stretch of water which separates our two main islands, seems to divide New Zealand not only physically but also culturally. As my railroad ferry nosed its way unerringly down the long land-locked Sound towards the Picton terminus, I felt as if I was being transported into that other world. On this latest journey of rediscovery the same old feeling overwhelmed me once again.
I belong to that group of adventurous. independent travelers who like to do their own thing. As the saying goes, "he travels farthest who travels alone." But don't get me wrong--I really do like people. I try to be objective, to see the country as outsiders or visiting fellow-travelers see it, but then have to give up. They are seeing it anew, interpreting and gaining impressions from a totally different perspective which makes me even faintly envious. When the guy from Missouri tells me he can't remember seeing such a beautiful sunset I am suddenly made aware of it.
Having worked, walked, driven and lived in so many parts of this country I am a willing and avid dispenser of information to all who wish to listen, though I never
cease
to be amazed at the variety of questions people aski How deep is that lake? Why do you drive on the wrong side of the road? Do you have a president? Yeah, and we do have apple pie just like Mom used to make!
Picton is the ideal base for exploring the Marlborough Sounds, if you can spare a few days--by passenger launch, hire or charter boats or even on foot. There are countless bays and coves virtually untouched. There are all types of accommodation, much of it accessible only by sea--the ideal get-away- from-it-all place to relax and sample the seafood. But this time I drove off the ferry in the warm evening twilight up over the steep, winding hill to Queen Charlotte Drive and on to the little seaport of Havelock at the base of Pelorous Sound. The weather was perfect so I spent the next day on the mailboat as it chugged the 100 or so miles servicing its isolated settlers and picking up and letting off passengers, mail and all manner of sundry cargo.
Havelock began
life in
1864
with
the discovery
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of gold in the nearby Wakamarina, but as so often happens, the boom was short-lived and within a year exploitation of the dense native softwoods began to provide a much more prosperous and lasting future. This little hamlet, having escaped the more "touristy" atmosphere that has so altered Picton, basks and dreams of other days as the large assembly of pleasure craft and the fishing fleet bobbles at anchor in the boat harbour. As a matter of interest to itinerants, hitchers or whoever, the youth hostel at the eastern approach to Havelock is a peaceful place for an overnight stay. It is situated in a quaint old schoolhouse which numbered two notable men among its pupils: firstly, Ernest (later Sir) Rutherford who was the Nobel prize winner credited with formulating the splitting of the atom: secondly, at a later time, William Pickering, a leading space research scientist.
It was near Havelock that I encountered a Maori shepherd droving a flock of about a thousand sheep along the highway. We exchanged a friendly greeting and I asked where he was heading. He said the sheep were destined for a farm in Hawkes Bay in the North Island. My curiosity aroused, I asked him how he was going to get them across the strait. With a sly grin he replied, "Oh, we're not going that way, mate!" Can you figure that one out?
It is an easy one-hour drive along S.H. 6 to Nelson. but do it at leisure over a few hours. You will be rewarded with fine panoramas of forest, mountains and streams at the scenic Pelorus Bridge reserve and from the lookouts at the summits of the Rai and Whangamoa saddles. Enjoy the blends of native and exotic trees on the steep hillsides. Then you travel along the valley floor to Tasman Bay and the sea once again. As you travel around these two long narrow islands of New Zealand, you are seldom more than 50 miles from the rolling sea. Any wonder we are a nation of seafarers? Those who are not can bask in the reflected glory of the achievements of our international yachtsmen.
I hadn't visited Nelson in 25 years, and here it was enveloped in the folds of the surrounding hills, simmering in midday 80F
much as it used to. Sleepy Hollow, as it was once called, isolated, introverted, was one of the first organized immigrant settlements to be established nearly 150 years ago by Englishman Capt. William Wakefield in the fledgling British colony. The city has a tong proud educational background. Friends informed me that an influx of artists, potters and alternative lifestylers has changed its personality nowadays.
The sunny, genial climate and tree-lined rambling suburbs, backing the lovely, long, creamy white sands of Tahuna Beach make you want to explore. Take a drive or stroll up the lovely Maitai Valley or the brook behind the city. Spend an hour or two in the Nelson Provincial Museum behind Isel House
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at Stoke for a fascinating glimpse of early history. Nelson thrives on its pastoral, horticultural, forestry and fishing riches. A pleasant side trip can be had by driving the 30 miles or so northwest out across the Waimea Plain through apple and pear orchards running down to the sea--and on to the township of Motueka. From early to late summer you may feast at roadside stalls on a succession of lush berry fruits, pip and stone fruits, and nashi pears. Last but not least, you will find the furry little brown fruit which a NZ botanist named Hayward introduced to the country. Hayward, after an expedition up China's Yangtze Valley over 60 years ago. brought, back, hybridised and released to the world in the '60s--the kiwifruit A few miles further on across the rich Riwaka plain past tobacco and hop-fields, is a lovely goldy sand beach at Kaiteriteri and the little crescent-shaped Honeymoon Bay.
If you have a day to spare, it is well worth your while to head up over the steep Takaka Hill (Marble Mountain). The views from the 2700 ft. summit are quite spectacular. Another half hour and you come upon quaint little Takaka (population 1200) in Golden Bay. I worked here over 40 years ago, and now I found it had changed hardly at all. In and around the town is a well-established community of potters, artisans and craftspeople from various parts of the world--attracted in part by the peaceful isolation, but probably as much by the dry. salubrious climate. Geologists claim that the Nelson district has virtually all of the most important minerals, even if not in commercial quantities. There are some excellent caves, so fossickers and trampers and pot holers (cavers) have plenty to occupy them.
I didn't want to leave this balmy suntrap. but most travelers are eventually pulled by the need to took over the next hill, and I am no different. (To be continued)
Thank you for mentioning KlWlphile FILE
when making inquiries to other publications,
NZ Tourism Office, travel agents, etc. We need recognition!
KIWI FIRSTS
Hokey Pokey ice cream
Hogget
Swannis
Lemon & Paeroa
Kiwifruit
Pushchairs on the fronts of buses
The chilly bin
Cheerios
Pavlova
Automatic candle-snuffer
No. 8 gauge fencing wire
Waterproof leggings First automatic stamp-
vending & postal
franking machines
Crimped hairclip
Patent or Yale lock
TulIen snips
Steam gold-dredge
Jet-boat
Retractable skid ski-plane
Noncontributory old-age pensions
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NORTH ISLAND VISIT
by Mike Giannone, New Jersey
After 20 hours or so
in
the air, and a delightful evening in Honolulu, the three of us landed at Auckland on Valentine's Day (Wednesday). This was the only one of our four trips that started during the week instead of the weekend. Since NZ is a
place
that rolls up the sidewalks from noon on Saturday until Monday morning, it made it much easier to obtain supplies, banking services, and do the other activities that one normally performs at the beginning of a trip. I used the lockers at the airport to store our "warm weather" luggage and gifts for our friends in Paihia (NZ$0.50/day/locker) and secured our station wagon from Avis.
The automatic Falcon wagon was a concession of comfort for my daughter, since we usually use a 1.8 liter, 5 speed manual hatchback to drive the length and breadth of both islands.
We set off for Coromandel along Routes 1. 2 and 25 (stopping off in Manurewa to visit my secretary's uncle and deliver a surprise package). and had a pleasant yet uneventful drive to Thames. There we stocked up at the Pak/n Save (huge store) for groceries, continuing up the very nice coastal drive to Tapu where a road crosses over to Coroglen. This unpaved road gives you an excellent feel for the wildness of the Coromandel Peninsula. One of its highlights is a short walk to the "square" kauri (and yes, this tree is actually square').
I should pause at this point for some general comments regarding driving and roads. I freely
admit
that I am a consummate driver. I
enjoy
the
absolute
freedom that one gets in pointing a vehicle down the road and just going! I feel that NZ is a drivers' paradise and, as such, can be enjoyed by a range of operators. from basic driving skills through "expert" status. Yes, some of the roads are narrow, unpaved, and lack guardrails, but the vast majority are extraordinarily
well maintained
and very safe. If you find yourself feeling a bit "exposed", just slow down a bit. Most of the time you want to be looking at the scenery anyway. If you HAVE to make time, it is also possible with safety. Too many guidebooks talk about roads for the "stout-hearted" and I feel that it scares visitors away from enjoying the kind of trip that you can't get from a bus. Go ahead, rent a car and drive yourself silly! I have been on several thousand kilometers of the NZ road network and while there have seen some "interesting" situations, I can honestly say I never met a road I didn't like, with one exception
. .
leave Skipper's Canyon to a local!
At Whitianga (ex-home of America's Cup), our base of operations for a couple of days was the Mercury Bay Motor Lodge, run by an ex-Floridian oilman and his
Kiwi
wife. It's right on the northern
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edge of Buffalo Beach. NZ$95/night seemed very reasonable for two bedrooms, kitchen, living room (entry right out onto beach) in this very pretty resort area only a few hours from Auckland. Less traveled than the western shore of Coromandel, this entire area is a real delight. Sandy beaches, boating. secluded coves, the "bush", and great scenery are the norm between Whitianga, Kuaotunu, and Coromandel. A provincial park at Otama Bay is particularly nice and the view of Coromandel town on Rt. 25 where it crosses the mountain divide is spectacular.
We headed south down Rt 25 towards Waihi and although
it
was one of our few grey days,
it
is easy to see why Coromandel Peninsula is so popular. Beach resorts to our left and the mountains to our right were difficult to pass by. As we took Rt 2 into Tauranga (stopping for fruit at the numerous orchard stands along the way), it became sunny and we decided to take a look at White Island. On previous trips we had explored Tongariro National Park and Linda was particularly fascinated by volcanoes. White Island had a great reputation for activity and it certainly did not disappoint. We flew Sunair (NZ$260 for four) right into the throat of the smoking crater! Allow about two hours total which includes several circles around and over the island.
We turned onto Rt 33 at Te Puke and drove towards Rotorua, making a short detour to Otere Falls (nice ravine and intriguing caves) on the way. While we were certainly not new to Rotorua, Linda's ever present interest in thermal activity as well as Amy's novice status dictated another visit, unique aroma notwithstanding. I will admit that even though I have been saturated with the place, Rotorua has much to offer the tourist, especially a wealth of Maori culture (even if a bit orchestrated). This time we stayed at Wylie Court (NZ$113
-
2-story condo, with much appreciated natural, private hot tub in the rear of the unit). We got a bit lazy and went to the Maori
concert
at the Sheraton across the
Street
instead of the cultural center downtown and saw a very mundane, touristy performance. It's probably events like this which feed the Pakeha tourist stereotype. (Save your Maori performances for the cultural center, the War Memorial Museum in Auckland, or special events in Waitangi).
Another reminder of NZ's commitment to capitalism, "it's nice to have around, but.
. ."
Even in such a heavy tourism area like Rotorua the shops close at noon on Saturday, which left my daughter's cranky camera untouched for at least a few more days.
The last time we were
in
Rotorua we had gone to the Waimangu thermal valley south of town for a very enjoyable look at all of its activity, but this time I decided to take a drive to Orakei-Korako which is a bit further down the road. This turned out to be a
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very good choice. Orakei-Korako
is
off the beaten track and at the end of a pleasant drive through the countryside. The main attraction is reached via launch (5 min.) across a lake and
has
a few trails to wander. While there
are
no massive geysers here, there is plenty of hot spring activity. The terraces are particularly beautiful, and
you
will really like the overall setting. This is a
perfect
place for a mid-day picnic away from
the
hordes of visitors at the sites closer to Rotorua.
On Sunday morning we went to Rotorua Airport for the Mt. Cook flight to Wellington where we would spend the day before taking the lnterislander Ferry on Monday morning. While waiting for the flight. the airport fire station commander drove up to the terminal in his engine for some morning coffee. Being a volunteer fire chief at home, I naturally struck up a conversation, and before I knew it,
was
being driven to the airport fire base for an impromptu inspection of all his equipment. We
got
a bit carried away and suddenly realized the flight
was
due to take off! A quick run (with lights flashing) back to the flight line, an exchange of fire department insignia, a handshake, and I boarded the plane. Of course everyone was staring and trying to determine just WHO I was. My wife is tolerant of these fire department escapades, but my daughter
was
trying to disavow any relationship with this strange
man who
just stepped
out
of the fire truck. To me it
was
quite simple: Just another example of Kiwi friendship and hospitality.
We had a nice sunny Sunday in Wellington and
got
lucky: the local business community sponsors "Dragon Boat" races every year, and this
was
race day in the harbor. Along with the colorful races there
was
a major Asian food festival in progress. so we stuffed ourselves. Besides the mandatory trek to Mt. Victoria (outstanding views), a Wellington Zoo visit filled the rest of the day (including tracking down some loose wallabies). A nice dinner
was
had beside the marina at the Greta Point Tavern, and we spent the night at the Quality Court on Oriental Parade (NZ$89 for three w/balcony overlooking the boat basin, and the twinkling lights of the downtown office buildings along the harbor).
A hint for potential users of the lnterlslander Ferry: buy your tickets before you leave home. Besides saving a little bit off the fare,
you
avoid the very long line to purchase tickets at the terminal. Then all
you
have to do is check your baggage, drop the
car
(also expect a long delay), and walk on. We watched many people sweating out a lot of bureaucracy. At the other end, it takes them a while to unload the baggage. One of you should go to the car rental
agency
immediately after disembarking to get to the head of that line, do your paperwork, and bring the vehicle back to the dock. By that time your bags will just be arriving and you
can
load up
and
leave.
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Our trip to
Picton was
uneventful. It was a cloudy day and (surprise! surprise!)
very
windy. Everyone used the time to rest up.
COMING SOON!
ROUTE SIX. WESTLAND, FOX GLACIER,
QUEENSTOWN, DART RIVER, MOERAKI
BOULDERS, DUNEDIN. LARNACH CASTLE,
CAPITALISM COMES TO STEWART ISLAND,
ELTON JOHN, RUNNING AGROUND AT
URUPUKAPUKA, AND MUCH, MUCH MORE...
NEW. CHRISTCHURCH WILDLIFE PARADISE
Where road makers quarry shingle (for what Kiwis call metal roads and we in US call gravel) the land is being redeveloped for wildlife. It could be the ultimate in recycling.
Peacock Springs, on the edge of Christchurch,
is a wildlife haven hewn from the Isaac
Company's excavations. A few cents from each
dollar of company profit
has
gone back into the land, Lady Diana Isaac says.
In 25 years this has come to mean a 15 hectare refuge of lakes, meadows and ponds for 30 species of wildlife and countless migratory visitors.
A full-time staff of four tends the grounds and animals. Enclosures for native pigeons and blue duck are under construction and an otter will be introduced soon.
Public access is by guided tour parties of 20 or more, or as part of the daily Christchurch Transport
city
bus tours. Open Days are held from time to time, all proceeds going to charity.
Ask
questions at the Canterbury Information Centre, 75 Worcester St., Christchurch.
McDONALD MOTORS, LTD.
If you're planning to rent a car in New Zealand, do yourself a favor and contact Dave McDonald's
agency
in Chnstchurch, with office in Auckland as welt. We recommend them highly. Their service is topnotch and prices
are
better than those of the big agencies.
They have mostly late model Toyotas, with a
few
Nissans and Mazdas, ranging in size from small 3- door vehicles to large 4-door saloon models.
You can arrange to pick up your
car
on one island and leave it on the other if you wish, and you will not have the hassle of changing cars when you cross on the lnterislander ferry. The price you pay for taking the car on the ferry will be made up for in the low total rental fee and the time saved.
You'll find Dave McDonald, his family, and his employees ready to give you personal service. if you are looking for a campervan they will recommend an agency to
you.
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Dave McDonald Motors Ltd., 171 Armagh St.,
Christchurch. P.O Box 13122.
Phone (03)660-929 or 660-927.
In Auckland: 123 Neilson St., Onehunga, Auckland.
Phone (09)645-599.
QUEENSTOWN CAMP GROUND
Arthurs Point Camping Ground, located at Arthurs Point, 5 km from Queenstown on Coronet Peak/Arrowtown Road,
has
a lot to offer the camper, caravanner, and backpacker, as well as the budget automobile traveler.
The camping ground, formerly known as
Queenstown Holiday Park, is now owner operated.
They charge NZ$28.00 for one/two adults in a cabin;
NZ$7.50 for campervan/tent sites; with multi-share
rates for backpackers and budget travelers.
Situated in a beautiful spot above the Shotover River. the campground is near many adventure centers--rafting, jet-boating, horse trekking, skiing.
Arthurs
Point Camping Ground, Gorge Road. P.O. Box 352, Queenstown. Tel &
FAX
(03) 442-9306.
BOOK REVIEW
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Cycle
Touring in New Zealand,
by Bruce Ringer
I'm not a cyclist and it wasn't
easy
to sit down and read this book, but I did and found it enjoyable. A bike trip requires careful planning, and this detailed book, it seems to me, is
axactly
what anyone would need who is planning such a tour of NZ. Bruce Ringer is an Auckland librarian and he knows his
country
well.
Perhaps because Ringer is a New Zealander, he uses words restrainedly. The book doesn't sparkle with the extravagant adjectives many of us would use. An example of
typical
Kiwi self-deprecation is on page 232 where Ringer describes State Highway 1 across the Canterbury Plains as "one of the dullest roads in the country." To many of us devoted Kiwiphiles there's no such thing as a "dull road" in New Zealand, There are only a few roads that are "less lovely and less exciting" than some others.
Ringer and his wife have
cycled
through much of Europe and loved it but have decided that
for
beautiful and satisfying countryside nothing
can
beat their home country. One of the aspects Ringer likes about cycling is that of ecology--using his
own
energy to power his
transportation
rather than adding to the earth's pollution from fossil fuels.
I like the author's "Countryside Code" on page 44, listing what cyclists should do in order to
leave things as you find them--or tidier." All of us
who
visit New Zealand should be aware of these points of good behavior.
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Fourteen detailed tours all over NZ are described in the book. As we read, those of us who
are
non-biking lovers of New Zealand can find ourselves smiling in pleasurable memory of most of the places Ringer writes about. It's like traveling through the country in slow motion, with time to savor every bend in the road, every tree, every stream.
Published by The Mountaineers, 306 2nd Avenue West, Seattle WA 98119. Order toll free: 1-800-553- 4453.
BITS AND BITES
• New Zealand
was
the first country in the world to adopt the 8-hr. day. This
was
unofficial during the beginnings of European settlement last century, with carpenters in the forefront of the movement. A 40-hr. week and 8-hr. day were enacted in 1936.
• Excellent stop in Wanaka if you're in a campervan:
the Council Campgrounds. A good one in Westport the Seal
Point
Caravan Park, close to the excellent beach. Westport is an interesting town with old architecture still surviving.
• If you don't mind an occasional fast-food meal, don't be afraid to go to Rotorua's McDonalds. We ended up there without dinner last Easter Sunday and decided on McDonalds as the lesser of several evils. The food
was good,
better than in McDonalds in California. The shakes were just like old times—real
ice
cream and milk with no additives. The French fries tasted fresh and the lettuce
was
crisp. The place
was
filled to capacity with quiet, pleasant patrons of all ages--Maori
and
Pakeha.
• Check out Blue
Sky
Motorhomes if you want to avoid Leisure-Port, the big campervan merger. Blue Sky gives you one free ferry ticket for a hire of 22 days or more. Blue
Sky
Motorhomes, 41 Veronica St. New Lynn. Auckland. Phone 876-399,
FAX
(09)874-302.
• When we drive around NZ we prepare many of our
own
meals. We made a good
discovery
on the last trip: Fernleaf semi-soft butter, available in alt markets, ft doesn't need refrigeration, so can stay in your
car
without melting. The container reads, "No additives-- no artificial ingredients." The softness is due to a new churning method, It tastes to me just as delicious as other NZ butters and is a great convenience.
• One of our subscribers (a JPL engineer) makes note of the fact that despite much of the world's apparent apathy regarding global warming. New Zealand is very serious about it. In anticipation of rising ocean waters, NZ building codes
now
prohibit any new structures to be built lower than 25 feet above sea level at the shoreline.
• Once again, after winning eight years in a row.
Air
New Zealand
has
carried off one of Britain's top airline awards. The airline
was
voted the best carrier to the Pacific by readers of the prestigious Executive
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Travel Magazine
. The runnerup award for the best long-haul airline
was
also won by Air New Zealand, second only to Singapore Airlines. The top award, Airline of the Year, went to British carrier Virgin Atlantic.
NEW ZEALAND FOR FREE
-
by Gary Ramsey, California
Two of my daughters and I have flown to New Zealand for free. Angela and I went in June of '89, and in June '90 Mary Beth and I went.
This year I took somewhat copious notes, only to leave them in the pouch on the back of the seat I
faced
on the last leg. So I'm sitting here with a New Zealand map trying to recall our week in South Island.
At 7:30 the 3rd of June we flew 13
1/2
hours from March AFB near Riverside, California to Christchurch. The plane was a KC-10. It's a
DC-10 modified to be a
flying gas station. Once a year a
KC-
10 flies to Christchurch to support the mid-winter airdrop of supplies to the scientific community at McMurdo Sound, Antarctica.
The airdrop is done by the big C-141 transports. The C-141 can't take off with enough fuel to complete the mission when loaded with all the food and supplies that are airdropped.
There were some 55 seats that were
available
to military and retired military members and their dependents who showed up. Being a former crew member on the C-141 and currently on active duty with the Air Force, I understand the Space A system better than most.
After crossing the dateline we arrived the 4th before dark.
Since we had stayed at the Melville Hotel (Christchurch)
the
previous summer (winter in NZ), I
called
them and they agreed to pay taxi fare for us (we brought
six
or eight other passengers with us). Under new management (Ken Jelley), it
was
even more pleasant than before. Just two or three blocks from downtown, this modest, homey B&B charged just NZ$50 for a room with twin beds and breakfast (for
both
of us). Address: 49 Gloucester St.. Christchurch.
We teamed up with Ivan and Joyce Ferguson, a delightful couple, and rented a car. Ivan was a bomber pilot and POW in Germany in
WW
II. The Fergusons live in Riverside close enough that I can almost hit their house with a rock from where I live. We had never met our new friends before getting on the plane.
To the south, enroute to Dunedin, we stopped and saw the Moeraki Boulders. Somewhere along Hwy 1 we saw the tree that is trimmed in the shape of a bird--really neat. It
must
be 75 feet high. There is a guest book, and Mary Beth was able to find evidence of our visit last year.
We found the nice motel
in
Dunedin where we
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had stayed the previous year, and stayed there again. We toured around the town, finishing up by going out to Larnach Castle. Heading west, we drove to Te Anau, then on to Milford Sound the next day. Milford Sound is awesome (didn't make it last year as we were caught up in the record snowstorm on June 20, 1989). On to Queenstown for a day or two. When you ride the Skyline Gondola, be sure to see the fun film they show in the small theater.
We stopped at the gorge where bungy jumping is done. No guts, no glory. We hung 'round for 30 or 40 minutes watching videos, hoping to see somebody go for it. It was a slow day, so we headed
on. Weary, we bypassed Mt. Cook at night, and headed on back to Christchurch.
Sunday I joined the Fergusons attending a Baptist Church. Ivan met a Kiwi who had done time in a POW camp near him in Germany. The Fergusons will not
need
to stay in any B&B in Christchurch next year.
Monday at the crack of dawn we took a taxi to the airport and got the two seats offered on a 0-130 belonging to the Arkansas Air National Guard. We flew to Richmond AAF about 30 miles from Sydney, Australia. The Fergusons had boarded the KC-10 and rode nonstop to Honolulu, and returned to March AFB after two days on the beach.
After nine days
in
Sydney, Mary Beth and I caught a 0-141 to Honolulu with a refueling stop at Pago Pago. We had a leisurely meal of Samoan pancakes. I think everything is leisurely in Samoa. After three days on the beach in Hawaii, we caught another 0-141 ride back to Norton AFB (San Bernardino, about 15 miles from the car we left at March AFB).
We love New Zealand and the Kiwis. It is so good to get away from the freeways and the rush-rush mentality. Night life is scarce—a small price. Since we traveled during off-season we had no problem with accommodations, and each host was better than the previous one.
I'm hoarding my leave, planning to go Down Under again with Angela next June.
U.S. military/retired military individuals who have questions or would like additional information regarding
flying
"Space A" aboard military aircraft are welcome to write me.
Gary Ramsey, Box 4432, Norton AFB, CA 92409
LOSS OF A FRIEND
A few months ago a very fine human being took leave of this earthly life. He was one who made the world a finer place by his presence. Many will miss him, There aren't many people of his caliber-- perhaps there never have been. His name was John (Jack)
Nash.
He lived in Palmerston North, New
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Zealand. We felt honored that he counted us among his friends.
Several years ago we met Jack and his wife Noeleen on the ferry heading for the South Island. I had been observing them with the strong feeling that these two people were "on my wave length "--that I wanted to know them. Then, true to form, without my saying a word, my warm friendly husband John went over to them and started talking. That was all it took. From then on we were friends. We visited in their home. We corresponded with them, knew of the progress of Jack's work on their lovely grounds-- enjoyed the birds around their home--watched little fantails come into the house each evening. We shared in the meals and teas served by Noeleen. We listened to Jack's charming, funny little stories.
Jack and Noeleen had traveled through the South Island over many year's time, and Jack, a near- genius with a camera, had taken quite a number of fine color movie films. We had the privilege of seeing these films, viewing New Zealand as it was 40 and 50 years ago. The South Island. quite empty of people in 1990, was even more sparsely populated then. Roads now taken for granted hadn't been built yet. New Zealand was even more a paradise in the 1940's and '50's.
We feel sad that these wonderful films will not be made use of--that others won't have the opportunity to enjoy them. It's one of the little tragedies of life.
Jack Nash, tall, handsome, charismatic, must be somewhere else now--making his surroundings better by his being there. We will always miss him.
LINDALE FARMS
We hope all who visit New Zealand will take the time to stop at the Lindale Farm complex on Highway 1 not far north of Wellington. Watch for the Lindale sign on the west side of the highway just north of Paraparaumu.
We love to stop for the good. soul-satisfying food served in the Great New Zealand Farm Kitchen in the farm complex. Soups are the specialty--hearty soups such as broccoli and cheese, seafood chowders, mushroom and spinach. There are big, delicious bowls of hot stew, ham and potato casserole, various breads and rolls from which to choose. The cakes and pastries are tempting.
We stopped at the Kitchen after a night ferry crossing and had a wonderful breakfast. We were all half asleep, but I dimly remember some unusual and delicious pancakes.
Outside the food area you'll find a baby animal petting park as well as small fields of adult animals nearby. You can see sheep being shorn and cows being milked. You can visit a cheese shop and watch various cheeses being made. There's a craft shop
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also. Be aware that the farm closes in late afternoon,
so try to get there earlier in the day.
NZ RAILWAYS TRAVELPASS
If you decide to travel through New Zealand on a New Zealand Travelpass, which includes railway. bus and ferry, ask your travel agent to call one of these 800 numbers for reservations: Frangipani Tours, 800-
458-1130
QE
Baird Reynolds. 800-228-8727. Two additional numbers for information and reservations are: Mount Cook Lines at 800-468-2665 or the NZ Central Reservation Office at 800-351-2317.
Some information is not easy to come by, but remember (and remind your travel agent) that the New Zealand Tourism office is there to help. Call 800- 388-5494 or 800-388-KIWI.
KlWlphile FILE RENEWALS
Your renewal date is noted on your address label. It will save expense for us if you will keep your subscription up to date. We will be happy to send one renewal notice before the next issue comes out.
Please note that the price will go up on January 1, 1991. No matter WHEN your subscription expires. you may renew before the end of December in order to save additional expense. If you renew for
two years
it will make less bookkeeping expense for us, and will save money for you. Thank you.
PLEASE NOTE: Due to rising costs, as of 1/1/91 subscription price for KlWlphile FILE will increase as follows:
US: $8./yr.
-
$15./2 yrs.
**
Canada: US$10./yr.
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US$18J2 yrs. Elsewhere: US$15/yr
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US$28./2 yrs.
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