Volume V, No.2
DECEMBER 1992
(-phile: {Greek--phiIos, loving} meaning one who loves, likes, or is favorably disposed to. Webster)
NEW TRAVEL BOOK AVAILABLE NOW

Available free through the New Zealand Tourism Board is a new 128-page book entitled The Official New Zealand Vacation Planner 1992-93.
A section on each of the six regions of New Zealand provides details on the major cities and highlights local sites and attractions. The information- packed book includes background material on the history, people and nature of the country. Special features on New Zealand's parks, hiking trails and camping grounds offer guidelines for readers interested in explor- ing the natural beauty and rich environment.
Included is information on transportation, ac-commodations, sample itineraries and package tours, festivals, celebrations and special events, in addition to valuable tips, facts and data.
Contact: New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd., No. 300, Santa Monica CA 90401. Ph. (310) 395-7480 OR (800) 388-5494.

ALL ABOUT KIWIS

A new compilation of statistics, Facts New Zealand, provides some interesting insights into the way New Zealanders live now. Much of the information comes from the 1991 census. Did you know that:
* It takes 2.10 births per woman to replace the NZ population (3,434,950), assuming no migration.
* New Zealand is one of the most monolingual nations in the world, with 90 percent speaking only English.
* Between 9 pm and 10 pm on Friday, Saturday and Sunday are the most dangerous times to be on NZ roads; most motor accidents occur in those hours.
* New Zealand has one of the highest imprisonment rates in the world, third only to Canada and the US. In 1991 it cost an average of $35,000 to keep a prisoner in a a medium-security prison, and $60,000 a year to keep one in a maximum-security prison.
* Only 53 percent of NZ families comprise mum, dad and the children. One in eight households has a breadwinner father and a housewife mother.
* Of all couples married in 1980, 16% had divorced before their 10th anniversary, nearly double the percent-age of couples who had married in the mid-60s.
* Auckland's workforce is larger than the entire workforce of the South Island.
* New Zealanders spend $130 million a year on newspapers.
* 52% of all university students are women.
* For every 100 charges brought against men for shoplifting offences in 1990, 134 women were charged.
* New Zealanders are the biggest users of wool in the world.
* They eat $100 million worth of ice cream each year.
(From NZ Listener & TV Times, 8/1/92)

HIKOI TOURS, WANGANUI RIVER

The Wanganui River is the third longest river in New Zealand (the Waikato and the Clutha are longer), It wends its difficult way 290 kms Irom the spring-fed source on North Island's Mount Tongariro to the city of Wanganui where the river meets the Tasman Sea.
Though it's a tough river to maneuver, running through deep bends, arcs, semi-circles, rapids, and narrow gorges, it's a popular waterway for canoeing tours.
Perhaps the most outstanding of the tours is a 3 to 5-day trip operated by the Maori Youth Council of Wanganui River, a group which has been dealing with Maori social issues for several years. Hikoi Tours was begun in 1989 as a means of bringing employment to local people.
The Maoris settled along the banks of the river around 1350, and the people of the various marae or meeting places, such as Ngapuwaiwaha, Ranana, Koroniti, Kaiwhaiki, and Putiki have made a huge contribution to the success of these tours. These people provide food and local history for the tour party members during their nightly stops.
This part of New Zealand has a rich Maori history, with village after village sited along the banks of the river.
1


The Wanganui was an important canoe route to central North Island and later, with the arrival of the Europeans, steamboats used the waterway. Sadly, today most of the villages are abandoned, but priceless artifacts remain and are on display.
You may book a trip by sending a FAX to 011- 64-6-345-8727. If you're in Wanganui go to Information Wanganui on the corner of Guyton and St. Hill Sts, or telephone 0930-1700 or on weekends. 1000-1400.

NEW ZEALAND REFERENCE BOOKS

Following are some suggestions for outstanding NZ-published travel books you might want to look for after arriving there:
- -BACK COUNTRY BYWAYS: Exploring the North Island Countryside . by Wayne Thompson and Ross White (Heinemann Reed, NZ$29.95).
- -NEW ZEALAND FROM THE ROAD: Landforms of the North Island. by R. H. Clark (Heinemann Reed, NZ$29.95).
- - THE TRAVELLING NATURALIST AROUND NEW ZEALAND, by Brian Parkinson (Century Hutchinson, NZ$18.95).
- -GARDENS TO VISIT IN NEW ZEALAND. by Alison McRae (Bateman, NZ$27.95).
- -NEW ZEALAND SURVIVAL HANDBOOK by Pam Brown (GP Books, NZ$12.95).
- -CRUISING NEW ZEALAND WATERS: A
Guide to Shore Facilities , by Jane and Michael Burroughs (Heinemann Reed, NZ$29.95).

US SKIERS RESCUE LOST SHEEP IN NZ

US skiers John Downing and Justin Wadsworth were training for the 1994 Winter Olympics on the Waiorau nordic ski field in New Zealand's South Island, when they discovered 32 merino sheep trapped in deep snow. The sheep had been missing for nearly 5 months.
Downing and Wadsworth were out on a long ski up to the top of the off-track. The pair had been joking about how they had seen sheep everywhere in NZ except on the ski fields when they rounded a corner and saw a flock of sheep.
The men were shocked to see the sheep. The animals were very thin and frightened, and attempted to run away when they were approached.
When the skiers realized the sheep were stranded, they skiied down the mountain to alert Waiorau Station and ski field owners Mary and John Lee of the sheeps' predicament. The Lees were delighted with the news that their missing sheep were still alive.
The sheep had wandered from the main flock during the fall muster and an aerial search had failed to locate them. The sheep became trapped in the high country when they were caught by an early snowfall in May.
The next day the skiers returned to where the
sheep were stranded. They were accompanied by Bill Koch, another US skier training for the Winter Olympics, and a snow-cat and its driver.
The sheep had been discovered just in time as several of them had died overnight. While the snow-cat dug away the snow to make a track up to the sheep, the three skiers mustered the sheep. The men were to round up the sheep and bring them down to the track which led into a pen that the snow-cat had built from the snow.
Mustering merinos is not easy. Unlike other sheep they do not run in a herd and scalier when approached...which is what some of them did. The men skiied for miles, up and down the track chasing the sheep. Some of the animals were so weak the skiers had to carry them down the track.
The sheep were then transported down, in small groups, on the snow-cat to a lower level where there was spring grass. Twenty-four sheep were saved in all.
"It was a really special experience," said one of the men. This spring the three Americans plan to spend half a day helping the Lees shear sheep.
All three skiers have been training in NZ since early September. Downing is leaving shortly, and Koch and Wadsworth are staying in NZ until early November to hike and windsurf.

VOICE OF A KIWI - By Richard Croft

It was a pleasant drive to Darfield through green undulating pastoral country on a crisp autumn morning, then east to Rolleston on S.H.1. There, on the spur of the moment. I decided to have a couple of days over on Banks Peninsula, that wart-like protrusion which extends out into the ocean to the east of Christchurch. Captain Cook erred again when he mapped it as Banks Island after his naturalist Sir Joseph Banks, and this persisted for another 30 years. In another geological age this would have been correct, before the mountain-washed shingle formed the shelf which now connects it to the mainland. Indeed, the city of Christchurch is partly built on this shallow shelf.
The Peninsula is unique because it is the South Island's only obvious area of volcanic landscape. Deep and narrow valleys split the eroded old basaltic cones. The two main craters house the two principal ports of Lyttelton and Akaroa and the views from the crater rims are varied and spectacular. Can you imagine the explosive force which blew the side walls from the craters to form these harbours? The hills are brown, austere, barren and rocky near the tops, but interspersed with streaks of bright green pasture and forest often to the harbour edge. It is recorded that in the space of less than 40 years up to 1900, in an orgy of ruthless cutting, the sawmillers had virtually denuded the area of its rich podocarp stands.
But I must start from where I set out, at Rolleston. A little further along the road is Lincoln with its Agricultural College, opened in 1880 as one of the world's earliest schools of agriculture, and endowed with 100,000 acres of land. Then it's on to the sea again, or I should say
2


a large brackish coastal lagoon called Lake Ellesmere which is home to large colonies of black swan and Canadian geese. It also abounds in flounder and eels. The shingle bank at Birdlings Flat is a favourite spot for anyone who wants to fossick for semi-precious gemstones

From Little River there is a steep climb to Hilltop. The liffle tavern is an excellent place to look down on Akaroa Harbour while partaking of some liquid refreshment, Some 10 miles in length, the native Maori meaning is "Long Harbour". The descent to sea level at Barry's Bay is even steeper before the gentle run into Akaroa.

The town occupies the site of the only attempted settlement by the French in New Zealand. In 1838 Captain Jean Langlois identified French Bay in the harbour as suitable for habitation. After making a down payment for it, he returned to France believing himself to be the owner of Banks Peninsula. He formed the Nanto-Bordelaise Company, which organised in 1840 for 63 emigrants to leave Rochfort aboard the Comte de Paris. When a Capt. Lavaud arrived at the Bay of Islands enroute, he was informed British sovereignty had already been proclaimed. The French settlers chose to remain at Akaroa and were joined by a large group of British colonists soon after. The French greatly influenced the character of the place, and visitors are intrigued to find that many of the streets have French names and there are many descendants of the original families in the area.

Akaroa is a quaint little town in which to stroll and savour the sea air and the surroundings. You can explore some nearby bays either in the harbour or on the coast, and there are some beautiful scenic reserves in the vicinity. There are cosy accommodations and a variety of eateries.

On the return to Christchurch I took the Summit Road which skirts the rim, and before Hilltop turned down the very steep hill into Pidgeon Bay. For the adventurous there is a road of some 15 miles, mostly gravel, over more hills, on around the harbour to the port and town of Lyttelton. This sea entrance to the Province of Canterbury seems to wear a nonchalant air as it clings somewhat precariousiy to the ancient volcanic wall.

The Canterbury Association, formed in London, sent a Captain Joseph Thomas to select, survey and prepare a site for a new settlement, but Thomas soon realised the limitations of the steep terrain and opted for the plain. Care was taken in the selection of the assisted migrants who were predominantly young, sober Anglicans of good repute. By the end of December 1850 the first four ships had arrived with a total of 782 passengers. As the "Canterbury Pilgrims" saw it, Lyttelton appeared as a straggle of cottages behind which a steep path zig- zagged upward through the rocks and tussock. This came to be known as the Bridle Path giving access to the newly laid out site of Christchurch between four broad avenues in a square mile as the city of London, and dominated by the lofty spire of its neo-Gothic Cathedral. The area was a nondescript mosaic of swamp, grassland, and pockets of trees, but was soon to be transformed as the suburbs
sprawled outwards.
It is interesting to note that each year on the Sunday nearest to December 16th, a commemorative walk takes place over the old Bridle Path. The 2-hour walk is mainly supported by descendants of pioneer families, but anyone can join. At any other time the path can be walked by starting off from the Administration Building at the city portal of the road tunnel and the return can be made by public transport.

The first railway in New Zealand, from Christchurch to Ferrymead, was in use beginning in 1863. in 1867 the mile-long tunnel to Lyttelton was opened. in more recent times a 1 1/4 mile modern road tunnel has been opened.

Christchurch is proud of its parks and gardens and the pretty little River Avon which wends its way through downtown, but the centrepiece is the lovely 500- acre Hagley Park with its lofty English trees, botanic gardens and conservatories. There are a horse-riding track and innumerable playing fields, and in spring masses of daffodils carpet the ground: The pioneers always wanted to be reminded of April in England so far away. Their schools and institutions, churches and statuary embodied the spirituality of that homeland.

Up in the Port Hills there is a fine drive with roadhouses, and from the lookout points there are constantly changing aspects of sea, harbour, the plain, and the grandeur of the snow-covered Southern Alps on the western horizon. At New Brighton and Sumner and along the coast of Pegasus Bay there are some fine beaches.

There is an international airport at Harewood and nearby are the headquarters of "Operation Deep Freeze", the support facility for the U.S. Antarctic base at McMurdo Sound some 2,000 miles to the south. Christchurch also has historical links with the icy sub- continent, having hosted a long line of Antarctic explorers, notably the Britisher Robert Falcon Scott whose party lost their lives in the ill-fated 1912 expedition.

Of the four main cities of New Zealand, Christchurch is the most distinctive even if only because of its geographical location on a plain. If there is a lingering hint of snobbery deriving from its genteel English origins, it is not evident in the open friendliness of its present-day inhabitants. It is a city of four seasons--brisk invigorating springs, hot summers occasionally fanned by those debilitating mountain norwesters which reach up into the 30 deg. C range, long mild autumns, and bitterly cold, damp and frosty winters.
S.H.1 leads north out onto the narrowing plain. 1 am on my way home in the middle of one of those spells of lazy autumn weather and am not particularly anxious to go. I stop for yet another of those ubiquitous, adventurous young hitchhikers who frequent our highways. Best hitching country in the world, I am so often told. I like to class myself as one of the original shoestring budget travelers, but I am still astonished at hearing the tales of their sojourns in so many countries around the
3


world. The modern jumbo-jet has certainly helped to shrink the planet to make travel so much more affordable and accessible. This bright-eyed Bavarian girl chatters away about her experiences and is obviously pleased with the hospitality and friendliness she has encountered over her 3-month stay, and with the freshness and visual beauty everywhere.
This momentarily brings a rush of pride and pleasure to me. I have a love-hate relationship with international tourism. I want people to come and experience the real New Zealand. I guess there is a place for packaged, pampered, organised tourists, but I always feel that they are missing the essence of what makes this country so different: that old, long- established tradition of helping people and making them feel welcome. In a rapidly changing world, long may that survive, It we lose it, then maybe it will be time to think about emigrating.
Miss Bavaria, her incredibly large backpack and I part company at Waipara. She is heading north and I am taking S.H.7 to the pine forests and the mineral spa at Hanmer Springs. This is the Lewis Pass Road which gives alternative access to the West Coast. It has been another hot, dry summer and the low, rolling North Canterbury hills look somewhat drab and forlorn as the lengthening shadows of late afternoon start to fill the valleys.lhe drabness is occasionally relieved by a willow- fringed stream or by a stretch of lush, green, irrigated pasture and there are the never--ending patches of wild flowers: blue borage, lupin, wild pansy, pink lavatera, California poppy. Some call them weeds and reach for the weed sprayer, others reach for more colour film. And everywhere there are the neatly trimmed gorse hedge rows covered with masses of egg-yolk coloured flowers.
I turn off down the side road to cross the Waiau River bridge, then amble along the remaining few miles into Hanmer. It is a pretty little oasis in the foothills, and boy am I ready for that dip in the hot pools!

BANKS PENINSULA WANDERINGS--4 nights, 4 days, 4 beaches, 4 bays

Since 1989, trampers have been allowed to enjoy 4-day hikes through privately-owned country properties in the Banks Peninsula. The track is just 29 km long, through wildly beautiful volcanic coastline on the east coast of the South Island, 80 km south of Christchurch.
According to the brochure, walkers should have a "reasonable level of fitness". it is said the terrain is rougher and steeper in spots than walks like the Milford and Routeburn.
At the end of each surprise-tilled day, the tramper is rewarded with a hot shower, farm food, and a warm bed in a cozy hut or cottage. (No insect problems on this walk, the brochure states). The track begins and ends in the historic seaside village of Akaroa. For those travelers not driving, there is transport available from Christchurch to Akaroa--a - shuttle bus (ph. 799 629) and Jenkins Bus Service (03 -798-20).
There is a book out now by Gordon Ogilvie which gives a full history of the Peninsula, with about 250 illustrations. BANKS PENINSULA:. Cradle of Canterbury (GP Books, NZ$59.95).

THE FIVE BEST IN THE WORLD

International Living has published its "First Annual Global Retirement Index", selecting the twenty countries in the world they believe make the most sense as retirement destinations. They collected pertinent statistics (thousands of them) and proceeded to rank each country in seven categories of interest to anyone planning for his retirement. They weighted each category to reflect how important they believe it is to the foreign retiree and then calculated an overall average score or final ranking.
The list of five top destinations, according to International Living's survey, is headed by Uruguay, followed in order by Venezuela, New Zealand, United States, and Greece.
New Zealand ranked high as one of the world's most literate countries, high in safety, high in low rate of taxes, and has one of the best climates in the world.
For detailed information, the address for International Living is: International Living . 824 E. Baltimore St., Baltimore MD 21202.

APPLYING FOR NZ RESIDENCE

There is a fairly new publication out by the New
Zealand Immigration Service, titled APPLYING FOR
RESIDENCE IN NEW ZEALAND. Self- Assessment
Guide" . A K.F. reader sent a copy to us.
The brochure explains the points system used by the Immigration Service, the different categories used, and compulsory requirements for all residence categories.
To get a copy, contact the NZ immigration Service or the nearest NZ diplomatic or consular office.

SUPREME SETTING MAKES WELLINGTON
SPECTACULAR AND UNIQUE - by Eva Trapani

Wellington, New Zealand, remains the city "of wind, sun and mists", as described by someone who loved it well--author Katherine Mansfield. The special magic of Wellington is in its vitality--much like San Francisco but without the faint sense of bawdiness and violence. The flow of air is fresh from the sea, usually brisk or even in the form of a gale, but sometimes still and pleasant.
Wellingtonians, as they make for their destinations thrugh the streets, seem to be aware this is the capitol of New Zealand, a place of importance. They are cheerful and friendly, almost benevolent to visitors. They're willing to share their good fortune.
Originally, Auckland was the country's capitol but, in 1864, the increasing population of the South Island was beginning to clamor for a "more suitable" location. Before settling on Wellington an independent
4


commission explored many possibilities, as far south as Nelson.
For more than 600 years the area had been peacefully occupied by the Maori followers of Tara, son of Kupe. They landed on the then island of Miramar, since joined to the mainland by a great earthquake. The relatively quiet life of the settlers was finally ended with the arrival of other warriors, and soon after by the Pakeha (Europeans), who treated the Maori with quite complete indifference. Soon white emigrants acquired the entire area through questionable deals with the descendants of Kupe.
Wellington has a turbulent history--battles between native settlers and Pakeha, earthquakes, fires. Even the winds from Cook Strait give the city a feeling of continual unrest. But the city has settled into a mixture of Victoriana, self-sufficient commuting to the hilly suburbs, businesses catering to tourism, dazzling glass skyscrapers, busy wharfs crammed with fishing fleets, container ships, and tugs.
The biggest thrill I've experienced in Wellington is the exhilaration of standing on the top of Mount Victoria on a night when the moon shone bright, the brisk wind whipping at me, causing the puffy clouds to skitter across the face of the full moon in the starlit blue sky. The illusion was dizzying--it appeared that the moon and stars were racing across the sky.
On all sides stretched the jewelled lights of the city, with here and there empty dark spaces where the harbor waters Jay. One could seem to see almost to Antarctica, 4800 kilometres to the south. No hint of pollution of any kind, to the eyes, the ears, the nose.
What a pleasure it could be to drive home from work each day in this city, beside the magnificent harbor displaying its many moods, or over the tree-covered green hills, with enchanting views around each curve.
Wellington has one of the finest harbors In the world and the city actually is the hub of the country, not far from the center geographically, as well as being the center of political and business life in New Zealand. There are several small parks in the city, and a forested greenbelt surrounds all.
Culture is at home here, with live performances at the Michael Powler Centre, The State Opera House, three professional theaters, the Royal New Zealand Ballet, the Wellington City Opera Company, and the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra. In addition there is the Academy of Fine Arts, National Art Gallery and the National Museum.
Though Wellington homes cascade over the surrounding hills, the inner city is small. It is possible to walk from one end to the other in about an hour. But there is much to slow your progress: nooks and crannies, steps leading up to another street, high-rise office buildings, old wooden houses, charming shopping arcades, surprising changes in street elevation.
The visitor to Wellington may get around the city by automobile and map, or the choice may be among several sight-seeing coach tours.
The cable car from Lambton Quay will take you to the panoramic view at the top of the Botanical Gardens.
Shopping can be exciting and possibly more rewarding than anywhere else in New Zealand. New shop- ping malls abound, with wide choices in leathers, woolens and crafts. If you want antiques, just check the telephone directory before setting out. Duty free shops are available in the city.
The scope for eating out in the region is wide, with new restaurants appearing often. You can dine at the upper end of the scale or find family-type restaurants. It's your choice, with Kiwi specialties, including seafood, native fruits and vegetables, lamb, and dairy foods on the menu wherever you go.
Wellington will continue to change its face, with huge cranes and steel skeletons always in view. But can Wellington ever lose its charm? I believe not, because of its supreme setting between tumbling green hills and that magnificent harbor in its ever-changing moods--spectacular in sunshine or in storm. Wellington is unique. (From the Dominion Sunday Times. Wellington).

WOOLLY WOES

In the latest of a series of military embarrassments, a wild dog has outsmarted New Zealand's army. After the animal slaughtered thousands of sheep on a South Island mountain farm, the military's top snipers were sent in to save the farmer from bankruptcy.
Despite months of tracking, use of night-scope rifles, and lurking in sheep pens dressed in wool-wrapped boots, the sharpshooters couldn't fool the dog and were pulled out. (From The Globe and Mail, Toronto).

NZ TOURISM BOARD WELCOMES JET SERVICE

The New Zealand Tourism Board has welcomed the news that Mount Cook Airline and Air New Zealand National has introduced a joint jet service into Rotorua and Queenstown. beginning October 1, 1992.
The service will utilize an Air New Zealand National hushkitted Boeing 737-200 aircraft and will be jointly marketed by the two airlines.
During the peak season Mount Cook Airline operates up to 14 flights a day into Queenstown which gives tour operators greater flexibility with their itineraries.
The 737 departs from Christchurch at 10:40am each day for Rotorua, arriving at 11:55am. It departs Rotorua at 12:25pm and arrives in Christchurch at 1:40pm. Twenty-live minutes later it leaves Christchurch for Queenstown, arriving at 2:55pm. On the final leg of the journey the aircraft departs Queenstown at 3:35pm before returning to Christchurch at 4:25pm.
For further information: New Zealand Tourism
Board, 501 Santa Monica Bl., Ste #300, Santa Monica CA, 90401. Ph: (310) 395-7480 OR (800) 388-5494.
5


THE YANK INVASION

Between 1942 and 1944 almost 400,000 American servicemen passed through New Zealand. They found there thousands of lonely and vulnerable young women. Many were wives or sweethearts of New Zealand men who had been overseas for two or three years.
The young Yanks were generous with flowers, candy and cigarettes, and on the whole knew how to "treat a woman". Many Kiwi marriages and engagements were broken as a result. In the widespread joke of the time, "What's he got that I haven't got?" "Nothing", comes the reply, "but he's got it over here".
A total of 1,999 known illegitimate births were shown in 1944 statistics. In all, 1,396 New Zealand women married American men. These marriages were made difficult by US regulations. Backgrounds of the would-be brides were thoroughly researched, and the women were subjected to humiliating examinations for possible venereal disease and for pregnancy. Marriage did not automatically mean American citizenship for these wives, either.
When the New Zealand troops returned after the war, there were a few street battles with US troops in Wellington and Auckland. In July 1944 the last American troops left, but the American invasion would never be forgotten.
Fifty years after the events of those times, New Zealand writer Harry Bioletti has written a book titled, The Yanks Are Coming.

HOT WATER BEACH

Twice each day hot mineral water rises out of the sand at Hot Water Beach on the Coromandel Peninsula on New Zealand's North Island. This twice-daily happening comes and goes two hours before and two hours after low tide, and can be enjoyed for about three hours each time. Visitors to this fabulous beach (mostly New Zealanders) dig holes to serve as their own spas in the warm sand. There's no cost, of course, for this amazing experience. The deeper you dig, the hotter the water, but you can cool off in the nearby suit. There's a good motor campground close by.
For more information contact: The Thames Information and PR Centre on Queen St. in the town of Thames (teL. 87-284). Thames is the Coromandel's largest town, and the local tourist office there can help travelers with information on the entire peninsula, one of the loveliest areas of NZ. Thames is located about 1 1/2 hour from Auckland. The Peninsula is a place of contrasts, beautiful scenery and peace. Don't leave it out of your plans.



TELL THEM YOU SAW IT IN
THE KIWIphile FILE!!!
THE BALLARAT FLY - (From Following the Equator. A Journey Around the World . by Mark Twain, pub. 1897.

November 27. Today we reached Gisborne, and anchored in a big bay; there was a heavy sea on, so we remained on board.
We were a mile from shore; a Little steam-tug put out from the land, she was an object of thrilling interest; she would climb to the summit of a billow, reel drunkenly there a moment, dim and gray in the driving storm of spindrift, then make a plunge Like a diver and remain out of sight until one had given her up, then up she would dart again, on a steep slant toward the sky, shedding Niagaras of water from her forecastle--and this she kept up, all the way out to us. She brought twenty-five passengers in her stomach--men and women--mainly a traveling dramatic company. In sight on deck were the crew, in sou'westers, yellow waterproof canvas suits, and boots to the thigh. The deck was never quiet for a moment, and seldom nearer level than a ladder, and noble were the seas which leapt aboard and went flooding aft. We rove a long line to the yard-arm, hung a most primitive basket-chair to it and swung it out into the spacious air of heaven, and there it swayed, pendulum-fashion, waiting for its chance--- then down it shot, skillfully aimed, and was grabbed by the two men on the forecastle. A young fellow belonging to our crew was in the chair, to be a protection to the lady- corners. At once a couple of ladies appeared from below, took seats in his lap, we hoisted them into the sky, waited a moment till the roll of the ship brought them in, over- head, then we lowered suddenly away, and seized the chair as it struck the deck. We took the twenty-five aboard, and delivered twenty-five into the tug--among them several aged ladies, and one blind one -and all without accident. It was a fine piece of work.
Ours is a nice ship, roomy, comfortable, well- ordered, and satisfactory. Now and then we step on a rat in a hotel, but we have had no rats on shipboard lately; unless, perhaps in the Flora; we had more serious things to think of there, and did not notice. I have noticed that it is only in ships and hotels which still employ the odious Chinese gong, that you find rats. The reason would seem to be, that as a rat cannot tell the time of day by a clock, he won't stay where he cannot find out when dinner is ready.
November 29. The doctor tells me of several old drunkards, one spiritless loafer, and several far-gone moral wrecks who have been reclaimed by the Salvation Army and have remained staunch people and hard workers these two years. Wherever one goes, these testimon- ials to the Army's efficiency are forthcoming ... This morning we had one of those whizzing green Ballarat flies in the room, with his stunning buzz-saw noise--the swiftest creature in the world except the lightning-flash. It is a stupendous force that is stored up in that little body. If we had it in a ship in the same proportion, we could spin from Liverpool to New York in the space of an hour--the time it takes to eat luncheon. The New Zealand express
6


train is called the Ballarat Fly... Bad teeth in the colonies. A citizen told me they don't have teeth filled, but pull them out and put in false ones, and that now and then one sees a young lady with a full set. She is fortunate. I wish I had been born with false teeth and a false liver and false carbuncles. I should get along better. (Will be continued).

LETTER BOX

Had my picture taken with your review on the wall of the Stone Cottage in Arrowtown! This photo may be part of the ruined 3 rolls of "irreplaceable Kodak moments".
We were in NZ for a month. I've been home now over a month and can't bear to even talk about the place. I have bonded with New Zealand and my heart is broken and I'm probably homesick...
Kharin Mishan, California

First correspondence from New Zealand. Want to tell you that the books you recommended have given us a good idea of what to expect.
We are so pleased with the travel arrangements made by Mike McClelland ( Best of New Zealand Fly Fishing). lie saved us a tremendous amount on plane fare but beyond that, he booked our first night at Pineapple Cottage B&R, prepaid for a half-day city tour and arranged an excellent deal on a rental car.
The kind people from Hauraki Meadows Rental Cars delivered the car to the B&B! It's a clean Toyota Corona that runs well. We'll keep the same car for the entire month, so Mike also booked the ferry ride across Cook Strait for ourselves and the car. What a relief not to hassle with luggage on board the ferry.
John and Sheila Rose, our first R&B hosts, were charming. John transported us to the Auckland Museum where we enjoyed the artifacts and the presentation about Maori culture. We walked through the Parnell District to the terminal near the Ferry Building to meet our tour. Only 9 passengers on this Grayline bus. Made stops at the zoo (to see kiwi birds), a winery, the ridgeline above the city, and a jadestone factory.
We had a comfortable rest, a delicious breakfast and headed south. Stopped at Waitomo Cave for the tour at 1300 hours, enroute to our first timeshare destination in Turangi.
Kaimanawa Lodge is a small resort but we have a spacious 2-story, 2-bedroom condo where we have two and a half bathrooms, a full laundry room and a garage! There are down comforters on the beds and a very complete kitchen. We have 2 TV's, a VCR and stereo so we aren't exactly roughing it!
We attended a get-acquainted cocktail hour where we met other guests who may be willing to share the cost of a charter fishing trip on Lake Taupo. Bob tried fly fishing in the river and had fun--but caught no fish.
We have driven up into Taupo to check on our next timeshare exchange. Lake Edge Resort is indeed right on the lakeshore and it too, looks clean and comforatable.
During Week 3 we have made reservations at B&B's We'll spend 2 nights with Jim and Janete Thomas in Eastbourne (they are the authors of the NZ B&B book). We will also spend 2 nights in Nelson, 2 in Christchurch, and one night at Tasman Downs Sheep Station at Lake Tekapo.
Our fourth week will find us at yet another time- share called "The Ridge" in Queenstown. We'll have 3 bedrooms there so could almost open our own Bed and Breakfast Inn for a week!
It is springtime here in the Southern Hemisphere so the countryside is emerald green and the pastures are filled with baby calves and woolly lambs
We are having a delightful time. Please feel free to share any of this information with readers of the KlWiphile FILE.
We heartily recommend Best of New Zealand Fly Fishing 1-800-528-6l29 for travel plans!
Rob & Kitty Raier, California
PS-We chartered Spectrum 11 but our new friend Roger Deacon is the only person to catch a fish.
We planned to see the museum in Waiouru today but Hwy I is closed due to SNOW! Glad we packed a few warm clothes (altho I may wish I had my down jacket, too). We'll keep you posted

BITS AND BITES

* Foreign students interested in studying in NZ should contact NZ embassies, consulates or Trade Development Board offices in their nearest city.
* Highly recommended is the Skylodge International Motel (Best Western), 144 McKenzie Rd., Mangere, Auckland-ph. (09)275-1005. Near airport, with courtesy coach to and from. NZ$63(USS37) single.
* Average cost for 18 holes of golf in Japan: $150.26. In Cayman Islands: $l00.06. In Monaco: $64.48; In Peru: $38.72. In United Arab Emirates: $25.62. In New Zealand: $14.56. (US dollars).
* Air New Zealand is now involved in "Save the Kakapo project" at Toyohashi Zoo near Nagoya, Japan. In 1990 a young Japanese freelance writer learned about HZ's efforts to save the kakapo and was attracted. She immediately raised a large amount of money to launch a kakapo-saving project in her country. As a result, much has been accomplished, and already over 120 Japanese nature enthusiasts have visited NZ, and school tours will begin soon. (The kakapo lives only in NZ).
* Whale-watching is best in the months of October and November off Kaikoura, NZ. The animals migrate in tremendous numbers, like herds of cattle. Whale-watching boats are offered 4 times a day; the cost is N7S85. Contact Mike Howse,
Whale Watch Kaikoura Ltd.
P.O. Box 89, Kaikoura NZ;
tel. (64-3)319-5045;
FAX (64-3)319-6545.


The KIWIphile FILE is printed on recycled paper.
7


We have no story by Mike Giannone this time because of his recent heavy work responsibilities. I thought you'd enjoy reading the following letter he wrote to our VOICE OF THE KIWI Richard Croft of TePuru, NZ. Mike and his wife Linda will be in New Zealand next month gathering new material for all of us to read in upcoming issues.

Dear Richard:
For many issues now I have followed the account of your trip through South Island, which nearly duplicated my own route in 1990. As I once told our editor Eva. I am very jealous of your writing style. I consider myself merely a reporter, while you capture the soul of your environment.
Thanks for the complement regarding my "ob- jectivity" in discussing NZ. I'm not sure the NZ Tourist Board would agree, since most of my observations seem at odds with their promotions of bus trips through your spectacular countryside. Even their choice of destinations for the bus folk presents a two-dimensional view of a complex, many-faceted environment and culture.
A sample of the advertising: "See the geysers of Whakawerawera, and taste the delights of a Maori hangi at the Sheraton! Wonder at the glowworms of Waitomo! Queenstown to Miliord Sound and back, ALL IN ONE DAY!" Just in those areas alone, the tour groups will never sample the pastoral setting of colorful Orakei Korako, or the quiet splendor of Aranul Cave in the company of a Maori guide ("Please, no pictures, sir, out of respect), or driving In the morning mists between TeAnau and Millord, stopping at every waterfall along the way (and keeping pesky Keas off the car!) Of course, the "bussies" also don't get to pick up hitch-hikers, drop in at any pub they fancy, visit the local fire brigade, meet anyone or see anything else outside of the main route. They go home raving about how beautiful NZ is, after sampling the top ten--and about 1% of the place!
Then again, this may also be a very sophisticated plot by the NZTB to attract big tourist bucks without spoiling the rest of the country for you guys who live there. We have a similar scam operated here in the States by the City of Seattle. Seattle is nestled very comfortably on Puget Sound in the Pacific Northwest, surrounded by snow-capped mountain ranges, national parks, evergreen forests, dormant and not-so-dormant volcanoes, and hundreds of square miles of protected waterways and islands. (Actually the place is very much like NZ!) Big promotions to visit the place are common, BUT ONLY DURING SPECIFIED TIMES. And you would NEVER, NEVER want to live here, since it is foggy/raining almost all of the rest of the year. (Old joke: "Weather maps are printed with a rain cloud over Seattle, to save forecasters' time"). I have been to Seattle a couple of
dozen times over the past few years, at all times of the year, and have run into serious rain only twice. It's clear they want to keep the secret for themselves. Maybe the NZTB and Seattle have compared notes!
I have mixed feelings writing about NZ for publication, since my enthusiasm might actually entice others to get oft the beaten track and seriously detract from my selfish, private enjoyment! You mentioned in your letter that you haven't quite come to terms with Eva's and John's "love affair" with your country. Unfortunately, you'll have to add Linda and me to that list. We are totally smitten.
It is hard to explain exactly why, but the combination of environment, people, and exotic remoteness is a very intoxicating mixture. Being realis- tic, I am very aware of the "blemishes" of New Zealand life. Certainly crime and violence exists; your country is no more immune to drugs and poverty than any other. The past few years your economy has been struggling as much as any other developed country's. Yet, on balance, New Zealand's overall situation is ahead of all I've seen in the rest of the civilized world. As you suspected, there is heavy nostalgia for those of us in the United States. I was just a kid thirty-five years ago, but living seemed simpler then, and NZ reminds me of those days (with all the positive advantages of current times). Your country's heightened awareness of natural resources should help to preserve its quality of life in balance with modern conveniences. Only two complaints: Too much TV (you only had two channels and a few hours in 1987) will undermine your easy ways (I speak from the experience of being addicted to dozens of channels) and you really need a good hamburger! (McDonald's doesn't count -- I really have to tell you my NZ "ham"burger story someday).
Until next time, sincerely, Mike Giannone

ANTARCTIC VISITOR CENTRE
Very few of us will ever have the opportunity to visit Antarctica. However the huge land mass, twice as large as Australia, has long been a source of great international curiosity.
Now, at the airport In Christchurch, the International Antarctic Visitor Centre is offering an opportunity to experience the icy continent in a big way.
The Centre presents the essence of the icy continent, showing seasonal changes, a look at Antarctica from outer space, an audio-visual presentation on a huge screen--and much, much more.

Until next time, KIA ORA !!

8