Volume VII, No. 2

DECEMBER 1994

(-phile: {Greek--philos, loving} meaning one who loves. likes, or is favorably disposed to. Webster)

KIWIphile FILE FAX NUMBER

Once again KIWIphile FILE has a Fax number

--818-541-0276. Please use it, if you wish, to send in items, letters, articles, etc. for upcoming issues. We appreciate everything that comes in.

PARALLELS AND PARADOXES Or How to Tell an Aussie from a Kiwi - by Nanette May (reprinted from Network For Living Abroad)

Last year I was asked to present a talk in Washington, DC, about the socio-cultural similarities and differences in several English speaking nations: Australia, New Zealand, Great Britain, Canada and the U.S. Although I was raised in Britain, Canada and the U.S., my life's journey had not yet taken me to the lands "down under." I had neither the time nor the money to fly there for a crash course, so I set about interviewing any Aussie or Kiwi I could find as well as individuals who had lived, worked or traveled extensively in one or both countries. Until then, like most naive observers, I had difficulty imagining the differences between the peoples of these South Pacific nations. They sounded pretty much the same, looked the same, and didn't they both eat "shrimp on the barbie?" After talking to about 25 Aussies and as many Kiwis, I came to see the things that make each unique.

Comparisons between Australians and New Zealanders are somewhat similar to those between Ameicans and Canadians, in that order. Australia has a significantly larger population (16.5 million) than New Zealand (3.5 million) as does the U.S. compared to Canada. Kiwis are more culturally tied to Britain than are Australians, as Canadians are compared to Americans. To an untrained ear, distinguishing a typical American "broadcast" accent is difficult, but the trained ear hears the softer, more rounded vowel sounds of the Canadian. I was given a similar description of the accent differences between Aussies and Kiwis, with the adjectives "stronger" and "sharper" applied to the Australian accent and "softer" and "a little more British" applied to the New Zealanders.

One New Zealander used the word "six" as an example. A Kiwi would pronounce it "sex," while an Australian would say something more like a nasal "seex."

Personality differences began to emerge as well. Both Australians and New Zealanders agreed that, like accent differences, their personalities can be described as being "sharper" and "softer." Expressions such as "a little more extroverted" and "slightly more aggressive and outspoken" were applied to Australians, while New Zealanders were said to be "a little more gentle" ..."softly spoken"..."reserved" than their Northern counterparts. In spite of these differences, however, inhabitants of both countries saw themselves as being fun-loving, good natured, laidback, environmentally conscious, and egalitarian.

Culturally, the similarities far outnumber the differences. The difference most often observed is New Zealanders' stronger cultural ties (if not identity) with England. Christchurch, I learned, is the most British city outside of England, complete with "punts (rowboats) on the river." One Australian (with a twinkle in his eye and a slight twist of a wry smile, so Australian) informed me that he still hears some New Zealanders say "going home," meaning "to mother England." He added, "I don't think you'd hear that much in Australia anymore."

What of "shrimps on the barbie?" I came to learn how silly I would sound in New Zealand if I used this phrase or "cracking a few tinnies" or "How 'bout that, Crocodile Dundee!" Mr. Dundee as well as several well known (and not so well known) expressions are solely tied to the "Big Brown Country," that is, Australia. "As much as we are alike," one New Zealander put it, "many Australian expressions go right over my head!"

There are many unique Kiwi words and expressions (A Personal Kiwi-Yank Dictionary is full of them). Some important contributions to the lexicons of both countries come from the indigenous people, the Aboriginal tribes in Australia and the Maori in New Zealand. One plays a didgeridoo in Wagga Wagga. New South Wales, Australia, and a Kiwi eats a Kumara (sweet potato) in Rauranga, North Island.

After interviewing people from "down under," I can tell an Aussie from a Kiwi and vice versa once they speak. And when I finally cross the Pacific this year. I'll be prepared to talk about my own ties in England while having a cup of tea with my North Island friends in New Zealand and order those shrimps in Sydney!

Network for Living Abroad, 13351-D Riverside Dr., #101, Sherman Oaks CA 91423 (tel. 818-789-2804).

THE NEW ZEALAND ECOTOURISM AWARD

In August 1992 several leading New Zealand environmentalists and tourism leaders gathered to discuss ways in which tourism in this country could be directed and managed to have as little impact on the environment as possible. An annual New Zealand ecotourism award was instigated for the purpose of setting a standard for tourist operators who make use of the environment. Although the standard has to do with the operation itself, it is more about how much effort operators make to conserve the natural environment or minimise the environmental impact of their business.

In any year, the judging panel has the right to announce no winner, if none of the operations meets the criteria. Travellers can be confident that operators listed as winners not only offer an excellent outdoor and wilderness experience in New Zealand, but also contribute to the preservation of the natural environment.

Award winners for 1993 are as follows:

** Catlins Wildlife Trackers,

PO Box 2192, Dunedin, NZ.

Tel. (064 3) 455-2681, Fax: (064 3) 455-6640

** Paparoa Nature Tours, P0 Box 36, Punakaiki,

West Coast, South Island.

Tel: (064 3) 731-1826, Fax (064 3) 731-1813

** Nature Quest New Zealand,

P0 Box 6314, Dunedin,

Tel: (064 3) 489-8444,

Fax (064 3) 489-8444

Special mention, 1993:

* * New Zealand Sea Adventures,

P0 Box 85, Kaikoura,

Tel. (03) 319-6622 Fax (064 3) 319-6622

** Monarch Cruises,

P0 Box 102, Dunedin

Tel. (03) 477-4276 Fax (03) 477-4216

** Otago Peninsula Trust,

P0 Box 492, Dunedin

Tel. (064 3) 476-1006, Fax (064 3) 476-1137

** Alpine Recreation Canterbury Ltd,

P0 Box 75, Lake Tekapo,

Tel. (03) 680-6736

** Yellow Eyed Penguin Conservation Reserve,

Penguin Place, Harrington Point, RD 2, Dunedin,

Tel. (03) 478-0286

COUNTRY HIGHLIGHTS TOURS

You'll be surprised, at what the New Zealand Country Tours and Hospitality people can do for you in a tour module covering as little as three days out of Auckland - or see much of the North and South Isalands in fifteen days.

These tours can be taken at any time by couples or small groups on a self-drive basis or with limousine driver. Larger groups are taken by motorcoach (bus). The itinerary can be varied as desired and can utilize a range of accommodation levels.

These tour groups visit ranches and farms and meet friendly New Zealanders who have a genuine interest in people from abroad. You may set aside one or two days of your tour for your own special interest: choose from the comprehensive list of subjects, including sports, agricul- ture, natural history, arts, etc., and arrangements will be made for you.

An example of costs is the 3-day tour from Auckland: from US$310 per person including rental car, breakfasts, one lunch, two dinners, and some extras.

Call for information---North America: @ Down Under Answers-800-788-6685. New Zealand: (64)3-313- 5855, Fax (64)3-313-5596. P0 Box 239, Rangiora, NZ.

OBJECTIVE:

Communique' # 3.0

NEW ZEALAND

Note: Field Communiques #1.0 and 2,0 described how Allan Cross and Martha Cross-Balon ("The A&M Team") accomplished their mission on South Island. Their mission was "to assimilate as much of New Zealand as possible in 21 days..." Planned with military efficiency and executed with Desert Storm like precision, the Team accomplished the first half of their mission successfully.

As the ferryboat made its final approach to the wharf we realized that Wellington could well be the most dangerous part of the entire mission. "Just think of it," we said as we easily slipped back into our New Jersey accents so we wouldn't be understood by any eavesdroppers, "a city composed of politicians!" Yes, Policticians... one of the most dangerous threats to the military. And these politi- cians were probably even more dangerous than the ones back at home base (that is if it hadn't been deactivated since we've been gone!), because they seemed to be more organized than our politicos, having already produced a National Health Plan! However, our fears were somewhat allayed when we mixed with some LNs and picked up valuable intelligence at a local pub called appropriately enough, "Back Benchers." The politicians here suffer some of the same characteristics as ours and even meet in a building designated the "Beehive." Also, it seems that the LNs maintain a tighter control over their politicos than we do, in fact practically paralyzing them in the election that took place while we were there!

The Team is happy to report that our logistics planning is proving to be outstanding. Unfortunately, as sometimes happens with overseas missions, our Intelligence developed a glitch. Logistically, things were on target: the transportation arrangements were perfect; we brought just the right items in our dufflebags; and now the

rental car from MacDonalds (highly recommended!) was not only cost effective but delivered right to us as we disembarked the ferry. However, our Intelligence breakdown was obvious as soon as we walked into the "B&B" that we had made reservations for... the Tinakori Lodge. The Tinakori is not a bad place, but it was not the place for us. We wanted a true "B&B" but the Tinakori was more like a hotel, even though it was listed on page 224 of the 1993 Bed and Breakfast Book. There was also no off-street parking for our car and we would have had to change the side of the street we parked on at inconvenient times, that is, buying a parking sticker! Interestingly enough, the place we changed to was a motel which was more like a B&B! The Wellington Motel, at 14 Hobson Street (Thorndon area), (04) 472 0334, was a lucky find. The team has never seen it advertised, yet it offered a low price, quiet surroundings in the same neighborhood where the smaller consulates are, off-street, reserved parking, and only a five minute walk to city centre...an absolutely great location and the rooms were huge and bright! So, through some quick tactical maneuvering our Intelligence glitch was overcome.

Wellington was an exciting city...not so much for its size, buildings, history and sightseeing, but more for the fact that Al got to drive "on the wrong side of the road" for the first time, in the second largest city in NZ! In fact, you might say it was an exciting place for everyone until he finally learned to make a proper right turn! While in Wellington, we toured Parliament (carefully!), walked the Botanical Gardens (don't miss becoming a "human sun dial"), rode the cable car and did some up- scale shopping. By the way, if you are a sharp cheddar cheese-lover, it was in Wellington that we discovered our favorite cheese in the world: Epicure Cheddar Cheese...and it went perfectly with our wines from Blenheim.

Heading north out of Wellington we couldn't resist stopping at Pukerua Bay to collect some of the beautiful shells that had washed ashore. Continuing on, we spotted a store called "Sheepskin Sales" in the town of Otaki. We were glad we stopped because not only did they have everything that could be made from a sheep, but they made it right on the premises. We wanted some car seat covers so the owner Kevin Chapman said he would make up a set of custom sheepskin covers for my make and model car and mail them to the US for us. When they came they were not only beautiful, but fit perfectly! Incidentally, don't hesitate to have merchants mail your purchases home for you. Ship by the 'SAL" method because it's cheaper and you will still get your things in about a month. The cost of the mail is offset by the fact that you avoid the G.S.T.—and you don't have to lug your purchases around with you! We mailed six packages back and all came through perfectly with only one being charged U.S. duty. Another hint is to check carefully before shopping in a store that has advertising signs written in Japanese...you'll probably pay more!

We arrived in Napier on Hawke's Bay and were not disappointed. The Art Deco theme is prevalent throughout the town because after it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1931, it was rebuilt according to the current craze.. Spanish Mission-Style Art Deco. Because everything had to be rebuilt during a relatively short period of time, the result was the greatest concentration of Art Deco buildings in the world. In fact this is why we wanted to visit Napier--we love Art Deco. Napier is often overlooked by travelers, but don't make the same mistake! It is the largest city on Hawke's Bay and boasts a superb beach, aquarium and marineland. There is also an interesting Earthquake Museum that runs an earthquake movie in which the viewers' seats move along with the action on the screen! Walk the Colonnade; it's beautiful. Also, try the local wines...excellent! Again, our B&B book did not let us down. We bivouacked at Kay and Stewart Spence's homestay atop Napier Hill (always take the high ground!). What a surprise! Not only nice people in a huge, beautiful colonial home filled with antiques and memorabilia, but the acre of land surrounding their home was the most flower-filled and wonderfully designed section in Napier. In other words, see the city park before you see the Spence's yard or you might be disappointed in the park! Don't miss having at least one meal at the Cottage Restaurant, located downtown on the beach road across from the Colonnade. If you have a car, take a leisurely drive around Napier Hill to see some very nice homes.

From Napier, the A&M Team set their compass for the next objective: a westerly swing inland in which we toured the Lake Taupo area and then on to the obligatory visit to Rotorua. Previous missions have made many, many other detailed reports concerning this fabulous and unique area....the thermal activity, the Maori village and pa and their associated events such as a hangi (a traditional Maori feast), and the activities available in. on, and nearby Lake Rotorua. The Team did not unearth any new and exciting Intelligence and can only recommend that not a single thing be missed at this singularly different part of the world and NZ!

However, in leaving the area on our swing North to the Coromandel Peninsula. Martha could just not resist seeing some more sheep! Maybe the sheep cuter on North Island! Specifically, we stopped at the Agrodome, which is a showcase for NZ's sheep industry, with displays, demonstrations of shearing and dogs working the sheep and a great store with quality items at inexpensive prices. But the main highlight, which is not to be missed is the show that is given in the main hall. Although the Team spends a lot of time in the field, we're basically city folk. Consequently, we found the show as fascinating as it was educational. Every different breed of sheep found in NZ (over two dozen) is displayed and you can even pet them. The surprise trick the sheepdogs do at the end of the show is something to behold. Be sure your cameras are ready...preferably video! Just four words of advice: Don't miss the Agrodome.

This final section of Communique' # 3.0 must be handled as Top Secret information and not be shared with big travel agencies or even travelers who do not truly love New Zealand! Why? Very the Coromandel Peninsula is considered by many as the last true refuge free of touristy development and undue foreign influence. This protected environment is the place where the Kiwis go to vacation! So lets keep this magical place to ourselves!

Not many tourists have the time to circle the Coromandel Peninsula. Our plan was to proceed North passing through Thames and then on to the town of Coromandel. turning east to Whitianga, where we would then turn Southwest back to the Thames area completing our "great circle". The whole trip would be done on Route 25. In all honesty, even the A&M Team could not see everything in 21 days, but how we did the Coromandel Peninsula is a good example of how you can do almost everything. Instead of going all the way to Port Jackson at the northern lip of the peninsula, we made a smaller circumnavigation which covered the majority of the coastal route. It was the most beautiful scenery we have ever experienced, but two events stand out.

First, we had the honor of meeting and visiting with Betty and Richard Croft at their home in Te Puru. Richard is well known to readers of the KIWIphile FILE for his encyclopedic knowledge of NZ and his many interesting and enlightening articles. Richard and I had been corresponding and he gave me many suggestions during the planning stage. They are a charming couple and we couldn't have been more thrilled to meet even the Prime Minister and his wife! We spent several fascinating hours together and somehow I really wasn't surprised to discover that Richard was also quite impressive in his knowledge of world travel, history, and philosophy! Richard also introduced us to his "neighbors up the bill", Sam and Pam Kopecky, which brings us to the second event that stood out during the Coromandel leg of our Journey..., the Te Puru Coast View Lodge! (468 Thames Coast Road, Te Puru, P.O. Box 241. Thames NZ, Ph/Fax: 64-7-888 2326).

Because the coast is protected, the Te Puru Coast View Lodge is unique in many ways. First, it is the only lodge of its kind on the entire Firth of Thames (West) coast of the Coromandel, the "sunset coast" (and they are spectacular'). And it will continue to be the only one because no more construction of this type is currently allowed. Pam is a Kiwi and her husband Sam is a good ol' Texan. Together they have created a millionaire's lodge for a working person's budget. Perched on the side of a bluff overlooking the panorama of the Firth Coast and nestled in a hideaway location in the elevated "bush", the lodge and its beautiful grounds are as striking to look at as they to look from! The Mediterranean architecture features double-sized rooms with full ensuite bath- rooms, a sunken pit" lounge and social center where guests may toast the dramatic sunsets, and even a fully- licensed restaurant on premises! The lodge would be great to spend an entire vacation in or to use as a "jump-off base" for exploring the peninsula.

Unfortunately, the A&M Team had to jump off after only one night (and only one dinner In the fantastic restaurant!) or we would never complete our mission!

The next morning we drove to Whitianga (on the east coast), stopping along the way to admire and video- graph some of the most fantastic coastal scenery we'd ever seen. Two places stood out. One was just south of the town of Coromandel where there were beautiful water views. The other was on the road just past Coromandel as we started the steep climb to the interior. The best view from here is seen if you stop your car, get out, and turn around to look.

We arrived in Whitianga at the rather late time of 20:00hrs (8PM for for civilians), and got a room at the Anchorage Motel. The drive was not as long as it was time- consuming due to a section of west-east road that was not paved (metal surface), and the many times we stopped for pictures. We just made it to dinner at a new restaurant called the Angler's Cove Bistro before they closed. We had some unusual local scallops that had an orange stripe on them. ..delicious!...and it was practically next door to our motel. We were on the sunrise side of the Coromandel Peninsula now and even with the previous day's long drive, the A&M Team rolled out of the sack early enough to not miss the blazing sun rising out of the ocean. However, as pretty as the sunrise was, the team decided that they preferred toasting sunsets...more civilized, you know.

After a motor tour of the Mercury Bay area, the team headed to the next destination, Cathedral Cove. a huge sea-formed cavern on Hahei Beach. Forsaking the ferryboat which would have shortened our drive, we opted instead for the scenic drive around the bay. The road only goes as far as Hahei Beach, terminating at the parking area. Hahei Beach, which is the Pacific Ocean side of the Peninsula, is beautiful in itself, with sand tinted pink by crushed seashells and even a Maori pa (defensive fort). We were surprised when we arrived at Cathedral Cove, or more accurately near Cathedral Cove to find signs that said Cathedral Cove was a 45 minute walk away. Since the A&M Team is a lean, mean, traveling machine, we were undaunted. We had seen numerous videos and photos of Cathedral Cove and did not want to miss it! To make a long story short, the 45 minute walk was more like a 1 hour forced march carrying full gear..and that was only one way!!! The bottom line here is: Don't miss Cathedral Cove, but you've got to be in good shape (by U.S. standards) or normal shape (by Kiwi standards) to make the hilly and twisting walk. If you go, be sure you bring everything you might need with you. There is no store of any kind and the cove is a great place for a lunch and some sunning and swimming. Don't forget the camera...it's a long trip back to the car!

Our next target was the famous Hotwater Beach, Just a short drive south from Hahei Beach via Link Road. This was another unique site that we had dreamed of seeing, end once again we got surprised. You can see all the videos and photos that are available, but you can't beat

the experience of actually being there. Our experience of being there can be summed up in two words: HOT FEET! The hot mineral springs that soak up through an otherwise normal-looking beach are not warm. They are HOT. The A&M Team strongly advise visitors to wear footgear even while approaching the Hotwater area. We are amazed even to this day that people would actually bring entrenching tools with them and dig foxholes in the sand so they would fill up with even hotter water and then lie down and soak in them!!! As an alternative to this fool- hardiness, we recommend that you bring along some hotdogs and let them be the only dogs that soak on this beach! Oh well, to each his/her own...

Completing our circumnavigation of the Coromandel Peninsula we saw our first Kauri trees. They were "small" ones but were conveniently located by the side of the road and we didn't have to walk far on our tender feet. We pulled in once more to the city of Thames...the first time we had been some place we had been before in NZ! Since we had the time we explored the city a little and were pleased to find it a very complete municipality with even a modern mall. But we knew we had to leave the wonderful Coromandel Peninsula soon because we still had the whole northern half of the island yet to reconnoiter.

Stay tuned to this frequency for Communique' # 4.0: Will Auckland be too big for the Team to handle? Will Martha find any cute sheep in Devonport? Can the team safely navigate through the Bay of Islands?

NEWS FOR TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES!

Some things just keep getting better, and Travelin' Talk is one of them. Rick Crowder, Founder, announces the new Membership Benefits Program for members of the Travelin' Talk network.

Travelin' Talk is a network of more than 1,000 people and organizations worldwide who are willing to provide assistance to travelers with disabilities. "We're people just like you," says Rick Crowder, "who have joined hands and formed a unique family of friends around the world who share our knowledge of our home towns with travelers with disabilities visiting or passing through our locations."

According to Ric Morgan, the new benefit program's manager, "The benefits we can extend to our members will make it easier for all of us in the network to travel and see those places we've all dreamed about." The search is on for the hotels, travel agencies, car rental companies and destinations/attractions that are willing to offer discounts and benefits to our members. "With more than 1,000 members and their families and friends, we have a big block of buying power that can only mean additional income to those companies willing to work with us," says Mr. Morgan.

There is a modest one-time registration fee for joining the Travelin' Talk network. Travelin' Talk has a 500-plus page, $35 membership directory available that is "not just an accessibility guide, but a directory of people put together by people for people who happen to have disabilities."

For membership information, write to Travelin' Talk at P.O. Box 3534, Clarksville, TN 37043-3534, or call 615/552-6670.

PINEAPPLE COTTAGE

John and Sheila Rose, owners of Pineapple Cottage in Auckland, where many of you may have stayed in the past, have announced that because of Sheila's serious illness they must suspend home hosting.

The couple were listed in the very first edition of the New Zealand B&B Book. They will miss the pleasure of hosting and the creation of many international friends. It is hoped that Sheila's condition will soon improve and that they may be able to travel more themselves in future.

ST. BATHANS - CENTRAL OTAGO - Sue Weston

"Gold!" The cry of discovery rang out throughout the province of Otago in New Zealand's South Island throughout the 1860s. Swarming inland across the rugged landscape like plagues of rabbits, miners from around the world found gold in the rivers, gullies and hills of the sparsely settled region.

At St. Bathans in Central Otago a township of 2,000 people and a dozen hotels sprang up almost overnight to service local gold claims. One claim proved such a challenge that it has gone down in gold mining history as one of the deepest hydraulic lifts in the world.

Visitors to St. Bathans today can see the startling result of that industry in the form of the Blue Lake. Travellers will find a much smaller community than in the 1860s however. The town now has a population of under

20 people, with their own hotel open to visitors for accommodation, meals and drinks.

St. Bathans is located 100 miles from the alpine resort of Queenstown on the Otago Goldfields Heritage Highway, a scenic driving route which connects coastal Dunedin and Queenstown in a big loop. The town straddles a gravel side road tucked into the eastern flanks of the Dunstan Ranges, one of the mountain ranges which give Central Otago its splendid landscape.

In summer (December through March) temperatures may soar well into the 90s, baking the tussock landscape a toasty honey colour. However, during winter, some of the best ice skating and curling is found around the area. And at nearby Oturehura, the big chill is celebrated each Queen's Birthday Weekend (June) with the annual brass monkey motor bike rally.

St. Bathan's most spectacular feature is its vivid blue lake set amongst jagged white cliffs. The cliffs are the result of 70 years of hydraulic sluicing to extract gold hidden well below the surface. Considerable force was needed to dislodge 75 yards of soil which inconveniently lay on top of some lucrative gold seams. That force came from water. Plenty of ingenuity, money and back breaking

labor went into constructing stone and mud water races which channelled water from the surrounding hills and mountains down to the gold claims.

Because Central Otago has a dry climate, huge catchments had to be tapped to ensure an adequate water supply. The largest race around St. Bathans extended out over 25 miles from the claim, and cost 25,000 pounds to build--an immense sum of money in 1875.

Water coming down the races grew in volume and speed as it drew near the claim. Metal pipes of ever- decreasing diameter built up the pressure, so that the resulting jet of water blasting from the nozzle tore away gold-bearing rock which was then directed into sluices for separation.

The jet delivered 25 cubic feet of water per sec- ond, a force so powerful that a careless miner stepping in front of the nozzle could be cut in half.

At St. Bathans this already awesome technique was further refined by placing a sluicing nozzle at the gold bearing level of a shaft. The concentrated force of the water blew the spoil and gold straight to the surface and washed it through the sluice boxes. What is now the Blue Lake is thought to have been the deepest hydraulic lift in the world, blasting spoil over 40 yards in a single lift.

The lake began to fill 50 years ago, when mining ceased at the Kildare mine because of fears further sluicing would undermine the township - literally!

Over time the huge craters left by mining activity filled with rainwater to form the lake, ringed with jagged white cliffs and surrounded by a lunar-landscape of mining waste known as tailings. Today the lake is a great spot for swimming or kayaking in summer or, if the wind is up, for windsurfing.

The Vulcan Hotel, built in 1882, is St. Bathans' sole survivor of the dozen or more public houses which supplied drink and dancing girls during the gold rush era. When the Vulcan was threatened with closure several years ago, local farmers and some more distant investors banded together to buy the hotel.

During the day travellers who have wandered off the main highway into the township are the customers, and in the evening the local rural community prop up the bar. Built of mud bricks, the Vulcan has a bar easily spanned with outstretched arms--perhaps ideal for drink- ers who can down another pint with the excuse that they were nearly out the door on their way home anyway.

The Vulcan is also a pleasant overnight stop. Four guest rooms offer basic accommodation with shared facilities on a bed and breakfast basis for $20 per night, or with a hearty dinner included for $35 per night.

At no extra charge, the guests may have a nocturnal visitor--the hotel's ghost. Hotel licensees Karen and Lawrence Frewen say there are several tales about the ghost. One attributes the eerie presence to an old miner who was murdered or drowned in the lake, another says the ghost is that of a saloon girl.

Footsteps in the hallway aside, the Frewens, who took over the Vulcan early in 1991, recount a

strange happening on their second day at the pub. A large bottle of gin in the bar exploded -an unusual event which seemed even stranger when the previous publican told them the same thing had happened to him on his second day of duty.

Apart from hanging out at the bar, visitors to St. Bathans can explore the township, which consists of a handful of houses, the public hall, and an old bank and post office. The Frewens can give advice on gold prospecting if you want to check out some old mining sites, or you can explore the history of the area on foot following one of the local walking tracks. The area also has good trout fishing and local guides can show you the best spots.

In March each year St. Bathans hosts a triathion known as the Ghost to Ghost. The race name is a double play on words about the Vulcan Hotel's ghost, and on the high-profile Coast to Coast endurance race from the West Coast to Christchurch.

More than 300 competitors, both individuals and teams, compete in the annual event, tackling a six mile kayak course on the lake, an eight mile mountain-bike section over the hills surrounding Mount St. Bathans, and a 5-mile mountain run over tailings and through forest.

After the race, competitors, support teams and spectators head for the pub and on to the public hall where local bands turn on the dancing music for those who still have some energy left.

Driving distances from main centers to St. Bathans are:

Christchurch (international gateway) 280 mi.; Dunedin 110 mi.; Alexandra 40 mi.; and Queenstown 80 mi.

OTAGO GOLDFIELDS HERITAGE HIGHWAY

Travellers will find the Otago Goldfields Heritage Highway a great way to explore the region's history and its rugged landscapes dotted with tussock grass, banks of wild thyme and dramatic outcrops of shist rock. A highway brochure with maps outlines towns, history and activities along two routes from Dunedin to Queenstown and back..

Reminders of the golden past are scattered all over Otago in rough stone cottages set into rocky hillsides, old pubs, abandoned sluicings, and in placenames such as the Pigroot, Drybread, Dead Horse Pinch, and Shingle Creek. Four wheel drive excursions are great for delving into gold mining history and are available at most townships along the way.

Marked on the highway map are some of the many sideroads which lead to other points of interest. Must of the 22 sites in the Otago Goldfields Park are also found along the Goldfields Highway and are marked on the brochure.

Highlights along the highway include old gold mining towns such as Naseby and Clyde, and the rugged Old Man Range for sweeping views across the Southern Alps from Fiordland to Mount Cook.

Central Otago's largest town is Alexandra. With its long sunshine hours and rolling dry terrain, "Alex" as it is known to many locals has a reputation for outdoor sports such as mountain biking, hang gliding, and kayaking

on the Clutha River. The town is also home to boutique vineyards William Hill and Black Ridge, reputedly the southernmost vineyard in the world.

Nearby Clyde is well known as the home of Oliver's Lodge and Restaurant. Last century Clyde dominated the lusty, rip roaring gold towns of the Dunstan digs, but these days it's the rustic charm and old world atmosphere of the place that springs to mind. 0livers' old stone buildings were lovingly restored in colonial style with the addition of all the modern comforts. The restaurant is the ideal romantic setting in which to sample the fine wines and superb food of the area and you may never want to go home.

Apart from gold history angles along the heritage highway there are plenty of opportunities for boating, canoeing and windsurfing on the hydro lakes, and fishing in lakes and rivers.

Queenstown has jet boating, rafting, bungy jumping, skiing and a host of other adventure activities. Central Otago is famous for its stone fruit and stops at local orchards to "try and buy" are a must.

An added attraction along the highway is the newly formed Lake Dunstan, created as part of the Clyde Power Project and now at its full height. Lake Dunstan offers a variety of water sports, launch trips and excellent trout fishing. Call at the information center in the Cromwell Mall for more detail on things to see and do in the area.

Further information can be obtained from: The New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd, Ste 300, Santa Monica CA 90401.

FIRST WINE TASTING CRUISE-TOUR TO NZ

Mike McClelland, owner of The Best of New Zealand, has announced that he has organized a special 13 day wine tasting cruise-tour to New Zealand.

The cruise-tour will be led by Steve Wallace, owner of Wally's, Southern California's leading wine merchant, and will focus on the quality wines being produced in New Zealand.

Participants will enjoy three nights in Auckland before boarding the M/V Marco Polo for a 7-day cruise around both Islands of New Zealand. On board the ship the participants will enjoy private wine tastings each evening hosted by leading NZ winemakers.

Besides all of the exciting activities included as part of the cruise, Steve Wallace will lead special private wintery tours in several of the ports.

The group will depart Los Angeles on March 28 and return on April 8, 1995. The cost of $1,995 per person includes round trip air from Los Angeles; 3 nights at a. first class hotel in Auckland; the 7 day cruise aboard the M/V Marco Polo Including all meals and entertainment; sightseeing tours in Auckland and Christchurch; private wine tastings aboard the ship; and other special activities.

For details, reservations and brochure, contact:

The Best of New Zealand, 2817 Wilshire Blvd.,

Santa Monica CA 90403. Ph: 310-998-5880; 800-528-6129. Fax: 310-829-9221.

NEW ZEALAND STAMP COLLECTING

Perhaps there are some philatelists out there among you kiwiphiles. If you are one, we suggest you write: Basil Umuroa, Manager customer Services, Philatelic Bureau, New Zealand Post Ltd, Private Bag 3001, Wanganui, New Zealand, for information on how to obtain New Zealand stamp issues by mail.

A colorful New Zealand Stamp Collectors Handbook and lots of other goodies will be sent to you. Stamp collecting is an exciting hobby, and stamps are inexpensive for yourself, for gifts, and to keep memories alive.

Not just stamps are available. There are calendars, T-shirts, and more.

GOLF -- from FOCUS,

(New Zealand Stamp Collectors Handbook, Oct. 1994)

New Zealand is of course a sports-minded nation and over the last few decades in particular, many New Zealanders have been attracted to the grand old game of golf. They are well catered for with literally hundreds of very attractive golf courses available to them throughout the country. Many have lavished every attention on giving golfers, both New Zealanders and visiting overseas golf enthusiasts, world class facilities.

This has, in turn, resulted in this country having produced fine golfers, amateur and professional, who have represented their country with distinction on the "circuit" of the international golfing world

Perhaps the most familiar would be left-hander Bob Charles who, now forty years or more since his Open debut in Balmacewen in 1953 still regularly and successfully competes in tournaments world-wide such as the U.S. Seniors Tour. Names in the news more recently include Philip Tataurangi, who with Michael Campbell, Grant Moorhead and Stephen Scahill won the prestigious Eisenhower Trophy world amateur teams championship for New Zealand And both Frank Nobilo and Greg Turner are also pitting their talents against the world's best professionals.

In New Zealand the game continues to give pleasure to over a hundred thousand regular golfers and untold numbers of their followers.

NEW ZEALAND'S "TOWN THAT NEVER WAS" - -

Written years ago by "unknown author" Jack Dobson

(continued from last issue)

As an English migrant, it was not beauty, but a sense of early New Zealand history, which was to make its greatest impact upon me during my remaining days in this most isolated of valleys. Nowhere else in this country have I been so directly conscious and so moved by the efforts

of the early pioneers who lived and suffered tremendous hardships--and died--to build up the country which we all know today as New Zealand.

In typical Fiordland style, the weather had broken on our arrival by jetboat at Martins Bay Lodge and the rain was pouring down when we visited that desolate, curving strip of sand that is the foreshore or Martins Bay. The surf was thundering in from the Tasman Sea and with it the wind and billowing mist which all but enshrouded the hills and mountains. I felt a sense of complete and utter isolation, of being "hemmed in by mountains", because I knew that through that mist were mountains and glaciers rising high around me

--between me and the rest of New Zealand: a world of grey, mist, rain and mountains.

As I looked out over the surf, I remembered the sufferings of those early pioneers who were encouraged to settle at Martins Bay in 1870. There was at that time no road over the mountains, but "one would soon be built" they were told, 100 years later, there is still no road! I could imagine their feelings as they looked out from the beach over the waves, through that wall of heavy rain and all enveloping mist, looking out for the supply ships which were to come to them, supply ships which on several occasions never came, and left the children so weak they were unable to stand up, how they had dug up all their seed potatoes, how they had even eaten a dead seal washed up on this beach.

I looked inland towards the all-encircling hills, the mist, the sad beauty of the scene. Just for a few brief moments the sun broke out through the rain and there was a rainbow over towards Lake McKerrow. A rainbow seemed to me to come to ground somewhere near the site of the forgotten settlement of Jamestown and I knew that before the afternoon was out, I should be visiting "the town that never was".

Later in the afternoon I came to the foot of my rainbow, to the surveyed site of Jamestown on the shores of Lake McKerrow, (it was absolutely calm now, the rain dimpling the flat grey surface of the lake) and with Jules Tapper as my guide I set off on my tour of the "forgotten city". No one has lived there for nearly 100 years. but as we pushed our way through the rainsodden undergrowth and dripping bush. I noticed that much of this was secondary growth and had at one time been cleared land. We found a rusty nail in a tree, a piece of pitsawn timber, an old apple tree-- perhaps second or third generation--still producing fruit in its splendid isolation

--and nothing else! We stopped in the middle of the bush and Jules Tapper informed me that we were standing on the site of a main street, and that there were plenty of other phantom streets in the bush all around us--John Street, Bay Street, Dilly Street. The "city", so carefully laid out and surveyed in half acre blocks, surrounded by five acre suburban blocks, and further out still, 50-acre dairy sections, had disappeared forever!

Before her death Alice McKenzie had faithfully recorded for posterity the suffering and privations of these early New Zealanders. I remembered her story of the great flood of 1878 when the lake had risen so much that most of the "city" around here was under water. When her mother, alone in the house in a force gale and with her menfolk away, had given birth to a

son--with a foot of water lapping the bedposts!

That son survived, but other children did not; they now lie in unmarked graves in the cemetery of Jamestown. The site of that cemetery appears to be forgotten, but to me, someone who had been born 12,000 miles away, that rusty nail and old apple tree made me realise just how much my adopted country owed to these pioneers of nearly a century ago. The exact situation of that cemetery may be forgotten, but the memory of these early New Zealanders who lived, struggled and died to create the town of Jamestown is not.

They were made of pretty stern stuff, these citizens of "the town that never was".

THE MARUIA SOCIETY

It's time to remind our readers of the Maruia Society of New Zealand. The Maruia Society is facing environmental challenges by finding forward-looking and creative solutions to today's complex problems, solutions that mean people can earn decent livelihoods while living in a high quality environment.

Maruia wants New Zealand to be clean, healthy and prosperous at the same time.

That's why they are going for green growth, marrying environmental excellence with strong economics and employment growth in a modern market economy.

Within NZ Maruia Society is focusing on getting land and water managed on a sustainable basis, and on the promotion of eco-efficient energy and trading systems. Internationally, they are working closely with village people and landowners in Pacific Island countries to find ways of conserving their tropical rainforests.

Maruia wants to see New Zealand's clean, green image become a reality. They want both industry and rural land users to reach high environmental standards--so that the atmosphere is maintained in good health and New Zealand's rivers and coastal waters are restored to a swimmable, fishable condition. They want soil erosion curbed and trees back on the land, new sources of renewable energy built and energy efficiency encouraged so that no more of New Zealand's wild and scenic rivers are dammed.

We can help in meeting the challenges, if we wish. Join Maruia Society--the team that is going for green growth. All members receive regular news of the Society's activities, thinking and achievements. Overseas membership is N7$40.

Maruia Society, Inc., P.O. Box 756, Nelson, NZ.

INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL NEWS

It's also high time to mention again International Travel News, the world's most down-to-earth travel magazine. After many years of subscription, I can't imagine life without it. It's the best!

ITN's goal is to be of use to the world traveler. Besides providing up-to-date news and reference material about the world of travel, ITN is the medium by which travelers can exchange ideas and opinions. Read there what you would learn only by word of mouth.

Many--probably most--KIWIphile FILE readers also read International Travel News. If you don't, why not send for a free sample copy? International Travel News, 520 Calvados Ave., Sacramento, CA 95815.

MORE GOOD RESTAURANTS

Several restaurants have been featured in North & South Magazine recently: In Wanganui you'll find Cables Restaurant and Bar in the grand looking 1902 general post office. The restaurant is totally smoke-free, and there is a lovely blazing log fire to warm your heart.

The restaurant is rather small and intimate in colors of forest green and burgundy. Pleasant music is played at a low level so conversation is comfortable.

The menu is pretty solidly meat based, with "vegetarian dish available on request." The meat dishes are interesting and unusual. Desserts are excellent.

Cables is at 51 Victoria Ave., Wanganui. Ph. (06) 345 6891. Reservations recommended.

Twenty minutes from Queenstown, tucked under a sheer rock face in the Kawarau Gorge, is the Gibbston Valley Winery and Restaurant.

Gibbston is a warm and inviting oasis, with white concrete walls hung with local artists' work, and local crafts are likely to be of interest to tourists. The menu offers hearty soups, pastas, and local produce served up country style. Warm weather dining is at tables in garden and courtyard area.

Gibbston Valley Vineyard Restaurant, phone (03) 442 6910. No daytime reservations necessary.

In Fernhill, 3 minutes around Lake Wakatipu from Queenstown, you'll find a fairly new restaurant, Giuseppe's, a hole-in-the-wall Italian place which seats only 24, but does a huge business in takeaways.

The eatery is colorful, with pleasant music, happy atmosphere, and great value for the price. How about fettucine with eggplant, red peppers, green beans, black olives, and tomato? Or pumpkin, bacon, and corn soup?

Giuseppe's of Fernhill, 155 Fernhill Road, Queenstown. Ph. (03) 442 5444. Bookings essential.

Kermadec Ocean Fresh Restaurant in Auckland, described by the North & South reviewer as one of the finest seafood restaurants she's eaten at in the world, is quite large, with four separate sections, stunningly decorated. The sea comes rushing at you through huge picture windows overlooking the basin below.

Of course seafood dominates the menu, with exciting and unusual dishes offered. There are memorable desserts. Allow plenty of time for this dining experience.

Kermadec Ocean Fresh Restaurant, 1st floor,

corner Quay and Hobson Streets, Auckland. Ph. (09) 309 0412.

THREE WEEKS IN NEW ZEALAND BY CAR - by Dennis Cavagnaro (continued from last issue)

Twenty-six miles long and seventeen miles wide, Lake Taupo is the North Island's major water sports recreation area and an angler's paradise. We stopped at the southernmost town, Turangi, where the Tongariro River enters the lake. I asked at the Automobile Association's Office about sportsmen's accommodations and was directed to Creel Lodge, a collection of modern duplex bungalows a few feet from the river. Phyl Wilde, the proprietor, an experienced fisherwoman and hostess to anglers, fitted me out properly with her rod and a set of waders. I spent two to three hours that summer evening watching the sunset while flycasting on the river which is, according to the AA "universally accepted as the best flyfishing river in the world, in respect to the quantity, quality, and weight of the fish it yields." I was impressed by the etiquette shown by the later arriving fishermen to the earlier fishermen. The next day I was out before dawn enjoying the New Zealand sunrise, but without fishing success.

I was in luck however, as a Kiwi overheard my inquiries at the AA office and offered to take us fishing with his 4-year old son in his boat on Lake Taupo. We had a wonderful day, with Bub landing a beautiful rainbow trout. While out on the lake our host radioed his wife to have us for tea which turned out to be what we Americans would call lunch.

Turangi has New Zealand's best, by our reckoning, Italian restaurant, El Purcio, a nice result of the importation of labor for a giant hydroelectric project in the area.

Pushing on through New Zealand's "desert" while skirting around the ski-sloped three volcanic mountains of the Tongariro National Park, we noticed army tanks racing over the countryside, leading us to Waiouru. We had been told to visit the Army Museum there, a fortunate suggestion as it is new and very tastefully done. Many of the exhibits are displayed in life-size dioramas, illustrating New Zealand's participation in many wars, including the Maori and Boer wars. The exhibit goes to a great length to show the important military contributions of the Maoris and probably serves as a multi-media quick course in New Zealand history. The gift shop was well stocked with souvenir items not usually found elsewhere by the tourist. The three-story bare concrete building dominates the southern edge of town and is easily spotted as it is surrounded by tanks and artillery pieces.

We headed off Highway #1 to Wanganui for the night as our guidebook had so highly recommended the Riverside Inn, a beautifully restored Victorian. Not only did the Riverside prove to be the least expensive of our lodgings, it was the most charming and, as an added touch, offered breakfast-in-bed. As it was Saturday night,

we headed across the street to the Riverina Bar and joined most of Wanganui in singing and dancing and just having a whale of a good time.

Leaving Wanganui, the highway roughly follows the coast from Wanganui south to Wellington. One easy two-mile detour was at Otaki to visit the beautiful carved Maori Anglican Church there.

We stopped outside Bulls at the RNZAF Base at Ohakea to visit No. 75 Squadron which flies the A-4 Skyhawk. As I had been an A-4 pilot An the Marine Corps I enjoyed applying USMC recruiting stickers, when no one was looking, on the planes, the hanger, and even the CO's office door. Little wonder that New Zealand, happily unique among nations, has no known enemy.

We stopped for dinner at the lovely and reasonable Fisherman's Table Restaurant on a bluff overlooking the beach at Paekakariki and from where we could clearly see the South Island. We enjoyed the lobster.

Paekakariki is the furthest north terminus of the red, electric commuter trains serving the Wellington area. Its spacious Queen Elizabeth II Park sprawls on the site of the United States' 2nd Marine Division's WWII staging camp. From here it is freeway all the way into Wellington.

We looked at a few of the accommodations listed in our Frommer book, but none in the city suited us so we drove out to the nearby suburb of Lower Hutt and were taken in at the Old Heidelberg Private Hotel (23 Pharazyon St.). The hotel is actually the large white gracious home of the McParland family, set back from the Street by a large lawn and flowered garden.

The McParlands could not have been more charming and helpful. As it was Brent McParland's school holiday and his leg was in a cast, we happily were able to prevail on the 14 year old to guide us on our sightseeing of Wellington.

From leads given in Auckland, I was able to contact a Hash House Harrier in Wellington, and I was again invited to run, this time with the equally crazy Wellington Hash House Harriers on their weekly Monday night run. The run was followed by Lion Beer, an informal BBQ, and a communal dinner in a Chinese restaurant.

The next day we turned our car into the rental agency where an employee drove us free of charge the short distance to the dock for the 10 AM ferry to the South Island. The ferries are stable, comfortable, and are a great way to meet the super friendly Kiwis. The restaurants serve an inexpensive but nice curry lunch. There is a full bar and reclining lounge seats. The open decks, popular in good weather, gave us a grand view of the Wellington Harbor and receding skyline.

We enjoyed the friendly atmosphere aboard the ferry to South Island. Bub, our 10-year old, easily made friends with other children aboard--it was still the summer school holiday--and through the children we met friendly adults. The kids had full run, literally, of the ferry's upper decks.

At the Picton ferry landing, we walked over to the car rental firm and picked up a car much like the one we had enjoyed on North island. We drove off, crossing the railway tracks in front of the waiting train to Christchurch.

Our destination was Nelson. The drive around the Marlborough Sound was winding, pastoral and picturesque. We made a slight detour to inspect the famous Outward Bound school at Anikiwa but couldn't raise anyone. The kids must have bccn out on a field exercise.

Nelson was abustle with families enjoying a holiday on the beach. We found a very friendly guest house where happily we fitted right in. One of the guests was a retired Royal Marine from Hastings, England. Len and I (a retired U.S. Marine) swapped war stories and exchanged our corps' neckties. Len immediately took over as an honorary but loved grandfather to Bub. In fact, we enjoyed the people at the guest house so much that we stayed over an additional day.

From Nelson we drove west to the homemade amusement park, Quinney's Bush, which I've written about in an earlier article.

MADE IN NEW ZEALAND

Opposite Gate 5 in the departure lounge and on the first floor of the Public Concourse in Auckland International Airport, and at several other locations in Auckland, you will find shops filled with unique products lovingly fashioned by some of New Zealand's most gifted artisans and cottage-industry craftspeople--products which reflect the clean, green image of beautiful New Zealand for you to treasure or give to friends and business associates.

You may shop there in person. Shops are open for every flight departure, arrival and transit. Those of us living outside NZ may request a colorful catalog from:

Made-In-New Zealand Ltd, P.O. Box 3827, Auckland.

TAUMATAWHAKATANGIHANGAKOAUAUOTAMA- TEA(TURIPUKAKAPIMAUNGAHORONUKU)POKA- IWHENUAKITANATAHU!!! - By Mike Giannone

North of Cape Turnagain, west of Porangahau, along the Mangaorapa Rd., is a nondescript ridge that has the distinction of having the world's longest place name. Of course this name is Maori. As one meanders along the highways and trails throughout New Zealand, it is impossible to escape the significance of Maori culture to this country. Although Pakeha ("European") and Maori cooperation and harmony are popularly romanticised by the Treaty of Waitangi, the reality of the situation is much more muddled. While steering clear of political and social commentary, and although I do not claim to be an expert anthropologist regarding Polynesian culture, I feel a strong desite to pass along some tidbits of Maori- based information that might help further the understanding and enjoyment of visitors to this multifaceted land.

my own included, have usually focused on the incredible physical beauty and overall atmosphere of this vacation paradise. Given my American-European bias towards history, I tended to overlook the influence and impact of Maori culture on New Zealand. Other than some "interesting" legends, I did not pay much attention to the meanings associated with the many, many exotic place names. Usually they just represented an opportunity for Kiwis to giggle as I made feeble attempts to pronounce them. I began to appreciate what I was missing when I sensed the difference of spirit between describing this land as Aotearoa ("land of the long, white cloud") or New Zealand ("another Dutch reclaimed saltwater marsh!"). It's the difference between describing the USA as "a bunch of separate, but commonly joined, bureaucratic entities", or some phrase which means "place between shining seas where purple mountains majesty and fruited plains are!"

Of course, European cultures tend to name places after people and neighboring place names generally have no relationship to each other. The most popular town name in the United States is "Franklin", and he wasn't even President. Granted, Lincoln, Nebraska is near Seward (check your U.S. history), but it's also sandwiched between Crete and Wahoo! While there is the occasional deference to the environment (Green Acres, Rocky Hill), for the most part our traditions are basic like New Site, Alabama. Not so the Maori. The legendary Maui had a canoe ("Te-Waka-a-Maui"), anchored ("Te-Punga-o-te-waka-a-Maui"), and caught a really big fish ("Te-Ika-a-Maui" on a hook ("Te-Matau- a-Maui"). The European version isn't quite as descriptive: South Island, Stewart Island, North Island, and Cape Kidnappers. Oh well, at least they were geographically correct, and Cook gave it the old college try after some locals tried to make off with his cabin boy. The honorable captain ably represented the taciturn British by summing up the whole sorry event with one word. In contrast, the "longest name" above, means: "The place where Tamatea, the man with big knees, who slid, climbed, and swallowed mountains, known as 'landeater', playing his flute to his loved one". (Before you get carried away, this is not a particularly romantic story, Tamatea's "loved one" was his twin brother, killed in battle).

Having a heritage with an established written language, it is sometimes easy to underestimate the significance of oral tradition among those cultures which did not write things down. For the Maori canoes, from generation to generation, tribal identity was preserved by the quality of its story tellers. However, why not make things a bit easier for the audience? If the surrounding countryside reminded them of the tales of their ancestors, it provided a nice, easy way of daily reinforcement, and undoubtedly saved the voices of the elders. Of course many, many place names are simply, "What is here?" Say you were hungry or thirsty. Wouldn't "Stream in which eel are found" (Mangatuna) be more attractive than "Bob's Place" (Papaabob?).

And who would trek towards Whangaparapara ("Bay of dirty water"), if they didn't have to. The New Zealand landscape is liberally sprinkled with these verbal roadsigns and menus. From historic significance to resource identification, descriptive names are highly important for societies with an oral culture. A Maori proverb neatly sums it up: "It is my land. I know what it says".

At the end of this article is a list of names that will make your next trip more enjoyable, and maybe even fun. However, if you are looking for perfection, be warned that Maori translation is a very difficult job. The simple fact is, there are too many variables. Besides basic Polynesian mythology, you would have to be intimately familiar with the local tribal lore (e.g. "Kohukohu" is a type of tree, yet that place name has nothing to do with botany. Seems that it also can mean a curse, which is exactly what the great Kupe did when someone undercooked his dinner there!). Counting the letters of the title of this article, you will not be surprised that current Maori names have generally been shortened (e.g. Pirongia was originally "Te Pirongia o Te Aroaro o Kahu" or, "the scented pathway of Kahu"). It is important to understand that "older" Maoris were replaced by "newer" ones, who then substituted their own names (Remember what happened to Nieuw Amsterdam above Verrazano's Narrows?). Sometimes even public relations takes over; Mt. Cook is popularly referred to in promotional literature as "Aorangi" ("Cloud piercer"). Pretty dramatic, huh? Except that it is more probable that the peak was named after Aoraki, a Polynesian demi-god who shows up all over the South Pacific. In fact, there are a lot of names that are linked to the Hawaiki beginnings of the Maori people and don't have anything to do with Aotearoa. Then there are the instances of pure fabrication; Atene sure sounds authentic. Well, maybe if you are a Grecian Maori with a lisp (try "Athens"). Finally, if you try too hard, you may overlook the obvious. Plenty of places are just named after somebody (remember Franklin?). Translate "Otane" as simply "The place of a man", and Chief Otane may come after you with his patu! (If you think this is silly, imagine if Stanley tried to track the good doctor Livingstone by explaining to the Congo natives he was looking for breathing granite!).

Having said all of this, don't give up! Try and translate anyway. You may actually come close to the correct meaning, learn some more about this wonderful place and its Maori past, and at the very least, provide the locals with a hearty laugh (right before they shout you a mug at the local pub). Just be careful with Urewera National Park!

Enjoy! Mix and match to your heart's content! (Some place name words):

Ana: Ana pai - pleasant cave; or Ana Kaitangata - cave where human flesh was eaten, or where people ate (just a minor distinction!)

Ara: Track, pathway

Awa - River

Hau - Wind

Iti Nui - Little, Big

Kai - to eat

Maunga - mountain

Maunga tapu - sacred mountain

Maunga roa - long mountain

Maunga wera - burnt mountain

Maunga whio - mountain of the blue duck

Manga (Maka, Ma) - Watercourse (river, stream, etc.)

Manga kahika - stream of the white pine

Manga kotukutuku - stream flowing near or through fuschia groves

Manga kuri - stream of the dogs

Manga hoi - noisy or boisterous stream

Manga kino - dangerous stream

Manga a nga wahine - stream belonging to women

Manga hoe - stream navigable by canoe

Motu - island

Pari - cliff

Pari pahekeheke - slippery cliff (watch outtttt...)

Papa - flat ground, or a "place of...."

Papa huakina--place which has been opened up (LA has these)

Papa koura--place of crayfish

Puke - "Small hill of ...."

Puke kohu - misty hill

Puke kakariki - hill of parakeets

Rae - headland

Rae huka - cold headland

Rae tahi - single headland

Tangi - to weep or mourn

Uru - grove of trees

Wai - water

Whanga - wide expanse of water, bay

Whanga Nui o Parua - large bay of Parua

Other words:

AHI - fire

AO - cloud

ATA - shadow

ATUA - god

HAKA - dance

HUA - fruit,egg

IKA - fish

MANU - bird

MURI - end

O - of, or place of

ONE - mud, sand, beach

PAE - ridge

PO - night

RANGI - sky

ROTO - lake

RIKI - small or few

TAI - sea, coast, or tide

WAKA - canoe

WHARE - house

WHENUA - land or country

In general,

A is pronounced as in "rather"

E is pronounced as in "ten"

I is pronounced as the "ee" in "seen"

O is pronounced as the "oa" in "board"

U is pronounced as the "oo" in "bloom"

When two vowels come together, each is given its proper sound.

"ng" is pronounced as in "singing"

Note: "nga" can be the plural article "the", or just part of a name

Nga kara - the old men

Nga puna - the springs (Te puna - the spring)

Ngaere - to quake or a bog

THE SEA SHUTTLE

We understand the new high-speed ferry between the North and South Islands is now in service, and

bookings are being made. Ask your travel agent.

The new "Sea Shuttle" makes the trip across Cook Strait in half the time of the normal rail ferry ser- vice.. Fares for the new service will be slightly higher. More later.

BACKPACKERS

You can get your own free copy of "New Zealand Backpackers News" by writing to this address: NZ Backpackers News, 50 Somme St., St. Albans, Christchurch, NZ. The newspaper has informative features, views and articles all designed with the backpacker in mind. (There's lots of great information for those of us who are not backpackers, too).

Auckland Central Backpackers, 9 Fort St.. Auckland NZ, sends us this information: "If you would like information on travelling in New Zealand please feel free to contact us. The Auckland Central Backpackers travel centre is New Zealand's largest domestic adventure travel shop. There are several reasons why you should contact us for your information:

"We know all the adventure activities and the

transport options first hand, because we've done them all ourselves.

"Being situated in Auckland, the gateway to NZ, we have all the latest up to date information direct horn adventure operators, National parks, rental companies, transport operators and airlines sent to us daily.

"As our operation is the largest of its type in NZ we are able to negotiate the best deals for you. We are currently renting cars out from as little as NZ$25/day, campervans from NZ$49/day and have flights from Auckland to Christchurch from only NZ$109.

"We can even arrange your accommodation in Auckland from only NZ$16 including free airport transfers, Free Beer vouchers, in house movie theatre, fully made up beds, 24 hr. reception and the best hostel security in the city.

"If you would like any further information, we're

open 7 days a week 12 hours a day. Call us on 09 358 4874 or fax us on 09 358 4871."