Volume VIII, No. 2
DECEMBER 1995
CHRISTMAS IN NEW ZEALAND - Celebrate a White Christmas in New Zealand. . . On the Beach

Looking for a new holiday vacation spot? Look no further. New Zealand offers holiday travelers a new version of a "White Christmas."
"New Zealanders spend their 'White Christmas' holiday, not in the snow, but on the sandy white beaches," says Kathy Ward, regional vice president, the Americas for the New Zealand Tourism Board. Togs (swimsuits) in tow, join in with the New Zealanders as they picnic on the beach on Christmas Day, followed by a traditional dinner at home.
Located in a pristine corner of the South Pacific, the reversal of seasons positions New Zealand to have a high 70 - mid 80 degree climate which offers an outstanding variety of warm weather activities.
Trekking. Take a five-day trek along the northwest coast of Tasman Bay which includes magnificent views of granite arches formed by sea erosion, beach, coves and coastal scrublands. Or take a four-day walk which crosses the beautiful Mackinnon Pass and meanders through grassy valleys and forested hills before entering the Arthur Valley rainforest.
Bungy jumping. Just outside of Queenstown, known as the world capital of bungy jumping, you can jump from the Kawarau suspension bridge which is a 143 foot plunge. Or fly by helicopter to Skipper's Canyon bridge and take in the 230 foot free-fall.
River jetboating. Another New Zealand invention is the river jetboats. Just 10 minutes from Queenstown is the most famous jet-boat ride in the country which brings you breathless just inches from rugged canyon walls.
Scuba Diving. Scuba on the shore of the Goat Island Marine Reserve and step into some of the best beach diving in the world.
Sailing. Sailing is one of New Zealand's premier sports. Explore the Bay of Islands on the North Island and the rugged coastline of the South Island for a South Pacific adventure.
Cave Tubing. Put on a wetsuit and caver's helmet and float through the subterranean Waitomo Caves and enjoy the surreal light show performed by its thousands of glow worms on its limestone walls and ceiling.
Wine Tasting. Some of the best wines in the world are found in New Zealand. Within the seven wine regions, you'll find regional wine and food festivals offering up their viticultural and culinary bounty.
Daily flights to Auckland, New Zealand, are available on Air New Zealand, Quantas Airways and United. Prices per round trip ticket from Los Angeles start from $1,300 and travel time for a non-stop flight is approximately 12 hours. Check with travel agent for discounts.
From its tranquil, sub-tropical location in the South Pacific, New Zealand offers travelers a Simply Remarkable vacation experience. A haven for the senses, an oasis of rejuvenation and relaxation amid unspoiled natural beauty, New Zealand is a destination of friendly people who look forward to welcoming you. For information on your Christmas vacation getaway, please contact the New Zealand Tourism Board 310/395-7480 or 800/388-5494

MURAL TOWN - KATIKATI - from the Information Centre, Katikati

Once upon a time there was a little town called Katikati. It was happy and prosperous, and no wonder, for nature smiles on Katikati. Fertile soils and a gentle climate meant a dairy industry prospered, deer, sheep and cattle farmers flourished, kiwifruit, citrus and other subtropicals bore rich crops.
But times changed, prices for kiwifruit plummeted, and retailers faced hard times when a town bypass was planned.
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Then some residents had a bright idea. Let's make Katikati a mural town! In what seemed a very short time six murals were adorning the walls of the town. Now there are more...there is no stopping Katikati...soon there will be 30 or 40!
Every day visitors come by bus, car and even bicycle to admire the high quality murals. All reflect the history of Katikati--its Maori heritage, its early settlement by Ulstermen. its timber milling. farming. and the growth of the town. Souvenirs and background information on the murals and artists are available from the information centres and craft co-operative which sells a fascinating range of quality hand-made items.
The Maori people, through their Runanp, Kokiri and Marae, are also involved in the buoyant atmosphere, sharing their culture and heritage.
Katikati has thrice won the Keep New Zealand Beautiful Award for the Best Small Town. People are proud of their town.
Come enjoy Katikati, view the murals and savour the busy) happy) purposeful feel of a town on the move but which still retains the friendly informality of a small country town.
Katikati, gateway to the Bay of Plenty, awaits you, two hours down the East Coast scenic highway (SH2) from Auckland, or an hour-and-a-half from Rotorua.
Enjoy the Katikati countryside—its kiwifruit orchards, its pastoral farms, its commercial flower production.
Enjoy meeting the friendly people of Katikati in their clubs and activities. Follow a variety of fascinating trails out of the town.
Call at the information centre for further information. For Murals Information or Guided Tours contact:
Katikati Open-Air Art, Ph. 549 0231 or 549 1828 or fax 549 0283.

WALKING DOWN UNDER FOR THE 'NIFTY, OVER FIFTY' CROWD - March 5-24 '96

This tour is built around daily hikes, scenic highlights and opportunities to meet the people. Visitors experience a wide variety of NZ's topographical features. Participants have a choice of long hikes (six to 10 miles) or short walks.
Tour commences in Auckland and includes walks at Waitomo, Rotorua and Tongariro National Park on North Island. On South Island, walks planned at Christchurch, Mt. Cook., Queenstown, Fiordland National Park, Te Anau, Catlins Forest Park and Dunedin. Overnight cruise on Milford Sound and farmstay with New Zealand family also included. $3,498 per person includes round-trip airfare
from Los Angeles; domestic airfare within NZ; accommodations; coach travel; many meals, and sightseeing. Group limit, 20. KiwiPac Tours, 1919 Chula Vista Dr., Belmont, CA 94002; phone 415-595-2090, or fax 415-591-7721.

BOB AND KIT DO WAIKATO (AND MORE) - by Kitty Baier (continued tram last issue)

David and Colleen Cullen live on a corn (maize) farm a few miles away from the town called Te Awamutu, which is the "Rose Capital of New Zealand." They shared their lovely home with us as we renewed our acquaintances. (The Cullens had been our houseguesfs in Anaheim in December '94--"Evergreen Travel Club" at work again.)
Colleen fed us beautiful meals and, in the evenings while David played the piano and Bob read, the hostess and I 'fought it outN over a Scrabble Board. (Colleen won!)
We visited a daily farm but missed the "performance" in the new milking parlor because Peter, the dairyman, was milking his herd only once a day. The cows had plenty of grass to eat so their stomachs were full, but without supplementary feed, milk production was down.
New Zealand was experiencing drought conditions. On our October trip in 1992, we were dazzled by the verdant green of every hillside. This time, the countryside was amber (very like California during our summertime.) Unfortunately, the rains that fell during our stay were concentrated and limited to small geographic areas (i.e., flooding in Nelson and Kaikoura.)
The rose gardens in Te Awamutu were still lovely, however, and we enjoyed seeing paddocks filled with race horses around Hamilton and Cambridge.
We visited "Farmworld" but found the animal demonstrations disappointing as compared to Rotorua's Agrodome and Rainbow Fairy Springs shows. We did have a good meal there, however.
There was a scrumptious buffet set out for the busloads of Oriental tourists and we were graciously allowed to participate. Later, I asked how the cnef had prepared the venison. He was Asian and non-English speaking so all I found out was that he had used Oriental 5 Spice and orange rind.
Venison is raised throughout New Zealand and there seem to be 3 or 4 species of deer involved in this business. We were told that nearly all of the meat is exported to Germany. It's strange, because exporters take almost all of the lobster (crayfish), orange roughy, and prime beef also.
Wood, too, is exported, then wood products are returned at prices that are very "dear". A sheet of particle chipboard, an inexpensive building material here in the states, was terribly expensive there. Paper goods, too were high priced. Greeting cards cost $3.50 and stationery was outlandish.
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Ugly brown envelopes, made from recycled paper, were 10 cents each and the postage to mail one also quite expensive.
So, even though we received $15 NZ for every $10 American, we watched our expenditures.
Best buys? The Bed and Breakfast stays! We used the Thomas book as our "Bible" and found warm, wonderful people, comfortable beds, clean bathrooms, and nutritious breakfasts.
From Te Awamutu we headed for Rotorua and had a marvelous time! Except for the walk through the thermal area, we didn't do any of the "touristy" things there.
Phyll Moore, the lady who coordinates Silverfern Tape Recording Club hosted a "Do". That is, she and other Silverfern members held a potluck TEA. It was a sort of Open House where we met about 18 fellow members of the club. What great fun! We feel grateful to Phyll and Fred for their hospitality.
Next came FISHING! Ike Walker and his wife Colleen have a darling granny flat that we occupied for 3 nights. Fully furnished, it was ideal and only $50 NZ per night. With Ike as guide, we fished Lake Rotoiti from 2PM until 6 without a strike. Even though it was beautiful on the water, we moved the boat to Lake Rotorua and within 30 minutes we had trout.
In all we caught 4 fish ranging from 14 to 21 inches. We released 2 but took 2 back to eat. So, at 10 PM I pan-fried fresh rainbow trout. Outstanding!
From Rotorua we drove to Tauranga for our first Affordable Travel Club stay. Jenny, Chris and daughter Casey, 2 dogs and 2 cats share a magnificent home in a kiwi orchard.
Chris was working late, Bob had retired for the night, so Jenny and I sat up late having a good "hen session". One of the Siamese cats came in making weird noises. Instead of being ill, as suspected, the cat was making peculiar sounds because it had its mouth full...of a live mouse! Soon, we were all scrambling around: cat, mouse, poodle and two grown women. It was more entertaining than television.
Jenny captured the errant mouse in a tea towel and put it back outside. A lady after my own heart, to be sure.
The next day we traveled up the Coromandel Peninsula as far as Hot Water Beach. There we lucked out because it was low tide.
People with shovels scooped out a "tub" in the sand and soaked in the HOT water supplied by springs. That night in the quiet gold mining town called Waihi we stayed in the home of a couple named French.
Bob and Josie French have the most beautiful garden we have ever seen outside the park system. They open their "Westwind Gardens" for tours and Josie prepares Devonshire teas for visiting garden clubs. Their home is a lovely spot to spend a night.
In the morning we visited the open pit gold mine at Martha's Hill. It still employs 1500 workers.
We had originally planned to spend a night at Kuao- tunu at the north end of the Coromandel Peninsula but when we learned about 40 miles of unpaved "metal" road, we cancelled reservations and switched to a homestay with the Rutherfords in Thames.
We drove around the Firth of Thames which was more like the coastline we had expected to see on the other side of the peninsula. Had lunch in the village of Coromandel and visisted craft shops.
That night in the spacious home of Glenys and Russell Rutherford, we repacked suitcases and prepared for the flight to the South Island.
We had called Eva Trapani's friends, the Crofts, as we passed through Te Puru. I had a pleasant conversation with Richard, but Betty was out. That evening Betty called our hosts' home in Thames to express regret that we did not get a chance to meet.
The 737's belonging to Air New Zealand had been grounded due to a problem in the "hush kits". the noise reduction systems. We were anxious about our flight from Auckland to Christchurch, but just as smoothly as the car return went, our plane took off and landed in Christchurch only an hour behind schedule.
We were met at CC airport by another agent from Hauraki Car Rental Co. We were assigned another red Toyota, a twin to our first car.
Reservations had been made at the Windsor Hotel on Armagh Street. Now ordinarily, we would be afraid of a hotel so close to City Centre. However, we had been in Christchurch before, so trusted the neighborhood. The Windsor was a perfect choice. With off street parking and within walking distance of the Botanical Gardens and Cathedral Square, we enjoyed the city as well as the camaraderie of other guests. Tea was served in the lounge evenings at 9PM when people gathered for TV and conversation.
Breakfasts, between 7:30 and 8:30 AM were another chance to visit. We made the acquaintance of two young scientists who had just returned from 3 months of research in the Antarctic.
One afternoon we took a local bus to the Air Force Museum. As we were leaving, talking about catching the bus back downtown, one of the docents volunteered to drive us back to our hotel. That is the true spirit of New Zealand, the wonderful, helpful people!
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From Christchurch we went over the mountains to Westland. Found the drive over Arthur's Pass rather disappointing. It is only after one starts down through Otira Gorge, that the scenery becomes spectacular.
We were delayed enroute. A worker, using abseiling, was loosening threatening rocks and sending them tumbling to the roadway. There a grader pushed them aside.
Our destination for the following two nights was a far cry from the luxury timeshare of the previous week. We stayed in a fisherman's cottage on the road to Lake Brunner. We had electricity and indoor plumbing but no TV, no newspapers and poor radio reception.
We did, however, have wekas that lived under the cottage. Wekas are brown birds that resemble a cross between a chicken and a roadrunner. We fed them bread.
Speaking of wekas and wakas and wetas*, it is easy to be confused. The Maori language, like Hawaiian, is made up of a limited number of consonants and vowels. Many words sound similar to one another. Lots of place names begin with "Wai" or "Tau". "Wh" is sounded like "f". The accented syllable changes, too. Tauranga is "TAURanga" while Whangamara is pronounced "fonga ma TA" or something like that. Bob found place names impossible!
Because there is no plural "s" in Maori, some terms are repeated as in "Keri Keri", and "Nui Nui". (*A "waka" is a war canoe, a "weka" is a swamp bird, and a "weta" is an insect.)
We drove around Lake Brunner and found the countryside peaceful. We made the trip to Greymouth through small towns and experienced the first really bothersome rain. We got soaked at Pancake Rocks so we postponed the visit to Shantytown.
Jean Adams, our hostess, lived 1 km. down the road from the cottage. She showed us how she spins wool into yarn. She also knits and sells sweaters. I purchased a sweater vest made from curly French yarn. Very handsome.
By midweek we were headed down the west coast of the South Island. We liked Hokitika with the quaint clock tower in the center of town. We stayed at The Central Guest House, shopped in the local stores, and wished we had allowed one more day there.
Further south we viewed Franz Josef Glacier, but since it was advancing at a faster pace than ever before, hikers were discouraged from going right up to the ice. We decided not to spend $260 for the helicopter flight.
The following night we slept at Glow-Worm Forest Lodge in the village of Fox Glacier.
A new wooden building, it had 2 huge bathrooms and a kitchen downstairs and 5 double bedrooms on the second story. Tariff was $58 NZ without breakfast.
The trip over Haast Pass was lovely. We were told that only in recent years has the highway been paved all the way. Again, the cicadas were "singing" in the forests. So many beautiful trees!
As we descended into the valleys around Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka we were once again shocked to see the grasslands so dry.
Our homestay in Wanaka was with teachers Dick and Sue Williman and their two sons. Sue invited us to share dinner with the family and other guests from England. That was an outstanding meal!
It was HOT in Wanaka at 30 C (30 x 2 + 30-90F) so it was a surprise to have the wind shift and the temperature drop as we approached Frankton. We had spent an entire week in that area in 1992 so we did not go into Queenstown this time.
We were heading for a self-catering cottage so had picked up fresh fruit and vegies as we passed through the Cromwell area. At the butcher shop near Queenstown Airport we bought fresh meat.
We stopped for a picnic along the shore of Lake Wakatipu and reached our destination in Manapouri by late afternoon. There we had a cozy cottage where Ruth Shaw, our hostess, had prepared a fire in the fireplace. That night we slept under several wool blankets and a duvet. Quite a contrast from the previous night in Wanaka.
Lance and Ruth Shaw operate Ecotours so Lance was out in the Sounds on the yacht "Evohe" filming dolphins. We were sorry we missed meeting him. Ruth and her dog "Hunza" provided companionship, however, and we felt we had made more true friends!
The next day was clear and sunny so we chose to make the trip to Doubtful Sound. That's an all day excursion that begins with a boatride across the lake. There is a power station that represents spectacular engineering because to reach the turbines one travels on a bus through a long, winding tunnel. Then one boards another bus to continue on to Doubtful Sound where a boat waits to cruise all the way to the Tasman Sea. We saw seals sunning on rocks but it was the dolphins who stole the show. They swam and jumped and entertained the passengers for about 15 minutes.
From Manapouri we drove to a farmstay in Progress Valley. We even got to attend a local cattle auction! That was fun. Later, our hostess showed us around the area before we went back to the farm for a great homecooked meal. June and Murray Stratford made us feel at home.
The B&B in Dunedin was on a hill that overlooked Otago Harbour. Our hosts were Shirley and Don Parsons. We visited the local attractions such as
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Larnach Castle, but the most fun was the train excursion up the Taieri Gorge. When one realizes that most of the work was done by hand with pick and shovel, that's remarkable!
Our final night in New Zealand was with our friends June and Ken McAuley in Oamaru. Again, we were driven all over the countryside, stopped to see the penguin houses along the beach and absorbed the views from the high spot on the McAuley farm (from Ken's 4- wheel drive farm truck. Ken has a new cattle dog which enjoyed the outing, too.)
June is one of the best cooks in New Zealand so we were treated to another delicious meal. We've learned that the McAuleys have bought a 175 acre cattle and deer farm up near Hook, about 35 K north. Do you suppose we'll get back to New Zealand a third time to see that and the other places that we have missed? We certainly hope so, because New Zealand, with its wonderful people and its diverse things to see and do, remains our favorite destination!

TRACK AND TARMAC ADVENTURES
from Otago Happenings

Until recently, Dunedin and Queenstown were not often mentioned in the same breath. These two extremes of the Otago region are as different as chalk and cheese--one known worldwide for its wildlife and eco- tourism, the other for those adventurers who want a taste of the wild life.
Since October last year a unique new travelling experience has been linking these two great destinations. The Taieri Gorge Railway and Pacific Tourways luxury coaches have combined forces to provide an exciting and informative half day journey. The coach connection follows the historic Gold Trail route between Pukerangi and Queenstown through rugged and dramatic landscapes which have bred equally hardy and hospitable people.
Passengers can start the trip from Dunedin or Queenstown and may get on or off at any point en route or decide to break up their journey over several days by stopping at one of the many small character towns. Cyclists exploring Central Otago are encouraged to load their bike and pack on the coach or train for a break.
A major attraction of the journey is the spectacular and contrasting scenery of the Taieri Gorge Railway, which runs a distance of 77km from coastal Dunedin to high country Mlddlemarch.
Called the Otago Central Branch Line, this railway was an awesome feat of pioneer engineering built between 1879 and 1921. The section between Outram to Middlemarch is all that remains of the line, after the Railways announced in 1989 that the Otago Central branch would be pulled up and sold for scrap. A successful appeal saved the line within Dunedin City boundaries, and in doing so created a unique visitor attraction.
The Taieri Gorge Limited train is a blend of modern carriages with skylights, panoramic windows and tables, and for the nostalgia traveller, lovingly refurbished carriages.
Light food, wines, ales and tasty snacks are available on board, and groups can pre-order meals to be served. The train runs daily four-hour return trips from Dunedin to Pukerangi until April '96. For bookings and other timetable options on the Taieri Gorge Railway, phone the Dunedin Railway Station on (03) 477-4449.

NEWS FROM NEW ZEALAND TOURISM BOARD

It may be cold and rainy as you pack your bags for your Christmas vacation, but if you are heading for New Zealand, you can leave your hats and mittens at home. In Simply Remarkable New Zealand in January through March, it's summer, and with a roundup of events like these scheduled for the sunny months of the year, New Zealand is sure to bring some sunshine to your vacation.
* Auckland Anniversary Regatta, January 29, Auckland
New Zealand is famous for its sailing, especially after New Zealand won the America's Cup in May of 1995. The Auckland Anniversary Regatta is sure to stand up to New Zealand's sailing reputation with this one day race on Auckland's picturesque Waitemata Harbor. Spectators can enjoy a range of on-shore activities from kite flying, classic car parades, food booths and live music.
* Air New Zealand Marlborough Food and Wine Festival, February 10, Blenheim
Experience an epicurean delight at New Zealand's "premium" food and wine festival. A sight, sound, and taste experience that will astound and delight your senses in the unsurpassed atmosphere of Montana's Brancott Estate, the largest vineyard in NZ. Sample indigenous delicacies such as world-famous chardonays, sparkling wines, salmon and green-tipped mussels.
* Ford Art Deco Weekend, February 17-18, Napier
Napier, which was rebuilt following an earthquake in 1931, is home to one of the prime examples of the Art Deco era. Experience the true New Zealand flavor of the Art Deco design which incorporates native New Zealand Maori-inspired design. Dress in a period costume or go 'as you are' to the many events of the weekend, including a grand ball, Art Deco walks and history tours, murder mystery nights and jazz concerts.
* New Zealand International Festival of the Arts, March 1-24, Wellington
The festival is the largest cultural event in New Zealand and attracts major International and domestic artists and art enthusiasts. Start the March-long festival out with a bang at the fireworks display that will light up the sky and transform the cityscape. From there, enjoy the premiere of Leos Janacek's opera Katya Kabanova. featuring a spectacular international cast. Other Festival highlights include a unique classical concert performed by world- famous opera singer Dame Kiri Te Kanawa, conducted by Stephen Barlow and accompanied by the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra.
Wellington is New Zealand's capital city and is the nation's cultural center. This compact cosmopolitan
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cosmopolitan center boasts elegant shopping, dining, art galleries, live theater and symphony performances.
* Golden Shears International Sheep Shearing Championships, March 2-4, Masterton
The "Shearing Olympics" if you will, this fabulous New Zealand event is a true adventure. Junior, open and seniors shearing competftions will be accentuated by Maori cultural events. While at the shearing competitions, travelers can also take in the Wairarapa Wine and Food Festival and the Martinborough Country Fair for wood-chopping contests, sheep dog "round-up" competitions and traditional New Zealand home-baked goods. Don't forget the world-renowned New Zealand wine - you "shear" will enjoy it.
* ECNZ Wildfoods Festival, March 9, Hokitika
An opportunity to sample the best of New Zealand's "bush tucker" (food from the forest). Gourmet "bush tucker" delights include stir-fried possum and eel and salmon pate. This unique festival celebrates the life-style, food and hospitality of the sunny West Coast, one of the more rugged and adventurous regions of New Zealand's South Island.
* Ngaruawahia Regatta, March 14-17, Ngaruawahia
This culturally rich event features the best of traditional Maori entertainment as well as exciting waka, kopaka and wakatawa canoe races. Visitors can watch the races and entertainment from the shores of the glistening Waikato River.

For free brochures and additional information on these and other cultural, culinary or tourism-related events in Simply Remarkable New Zealand, please contact the New Zealand Tourism Board at (310) 395-7480.

BACK TO MY NEW ZEALAND - By Eva Trapani

It was a long-awaited and happy moment when I found Richard Croft waiting for me at the Auckland Airport, and to reach Betty at their home a bit later. It felt so good to get into "my" bed there and sleep for four hours after the long flight from Los Angeles.
Then began the great, varied and wholesome daily dinners ('tea" to them), and the pleasant evenings:
the three of us, just talking or watching something good on telly, or Betty and I playing cards while Richard was reading. I felt safe and welcome there in their little house on the side of the hill.
It was good to hear the rain pelting down on the roof as it did so much of the time--July (winter) in New Zealand. How I loved to step out on their high deck to gaze out over the little settlement of homes called Te Puru and out across the Firth of Thames. The Firth showed me many moods, all fascinating. I tried to let it all soak in-- quietness, the lovely scene, the knowledge that I was finally back in
New Zealand with my friends—the cold bracing air, and so often the blessed rain.
Sheba, Betty's cat, was part of the picture. She was contented and peaceful and unlike many California cats, she could sleep outside at night with no thought of coyotes, mountain lions, or any other predators.
New Zealand means safety to me, and peace, and loving people around me. That was all still there. And, yes, it was cold. I finally bought a pair of beautiful, soft, woolly underwear, and started wearing my red knit cap when I went to bed at night. I had wool blankets on top of me and an electric under blanket.
The Firth of Thames comes in from the ocean, and the storms were like squalls at sea. The New Zealanders were complaining, but I just smiled knowing temps at home were in the high 90's and low 100's. 1 felt fortunate to be there in the cold. It turned out that this was one of the worst winters on record in the country. The North Island "desert" road was closed later on by heavy snow, and many South Island areas were cut off.
After a few days rest Richard drove Betty and me to Hamilton where we boarded the Auckland to Wellington train. Trains were crowded with families because there was a week-long school holiday in progress.
I found the train to be pleasant and very relaxing, with lots of interesting scenery. We were well fed, airline style, at our seats. There was a food bar in one of the cars for between-meal snacks.
The train personnel were remarkably caring. As we neared Wellington Betty asked the male attendant about how to get to our destination, the Port Nicholson Youth Hostel. He gave us that information and told us he would meet us on the platform after the train arrived to help with our luggage. It was unbelievable to me that there he was with his own luggage over his shoulder, carrying our bags in his hands. He took us through the station and out to where we should wait for a taxi.
I was pleased with the Port Nicholson Youth Hostel. Richard had made reservations for us in advance. Formerly a fine hotel, it's a comfortable place to stay, right in the center of town. Not being a hostel member, I had to pay NZ$24 to Betty's $20. We had a private bath and there were 4 single beds in the room to choose from, all comfortable. We were provided with more than enough blankets and duvets, and both of us had a good sleep. We had bought sandwiches on the train for our evening meal, and the generous train people had thrown in lots of tea bags, sugar and cream, and cookies.
In the morning we prepared our simple breakfast in the communal kitchen and ate in the large dining-room For company we had many young male athletes.
We arrived at the fairly nearby ferry terminal just in time and found the Arahura pretty well loaded.
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It was a calm crossing of Cook Strait, unlike the wild one we heard about two days before when the ship was rocked rather severely.
Betty and I got out our pack of cards and played "Kings in the Corner", and it wasn't long before we were joined by two or three Kiwis or various ages who had watched us for a while. That was fun.
In Picton it was raining. We had to wait at the railroad station for quite a while to continue on our way to Christchurch. The scenery on this last leg of our journey was magnificent--the Pacific Ocean on the left and the snow-covered Kaikoura Mountains on the right. It rained off and on all the way, but when we got off the train in Christchurch, my friends there waiting for us, the air was crisp, clear, invigorating, downright frosty.
While in Christchurch we went up in the tram, but the air wasn't clear that day, so the views of the city weren't great. But Orana Park was, at least for me. We saw the ever-ravenous lions being fed, and got to help feed my beloved giraffes.
Our visit in Christchurch lasted four days, and every minute was pleasant. Betty enjoyed the city's new casino with our hosts while I visited another friend. On the day we had to leave, our hosts' daughter prepared a sumptuous lunch for us and for her family.
It was difficult to leave my dear friends when the time came, but we enjoyed our flight to Auckland in a Mount Cook turbo-prop plane. The weather was perfect, but over Cook Strait the small plane did a good bit of bouncing. Fortunately we had already been served our lunch.
I enjoyed the North Island views from my window, and it was a nice feeling to see far below the ferry from Picton coming into Wellington harbor.
The following week Richard, Betty and I took off in the trusty Skoda for a trip 'round some of the North Island. We picked the right time; the next week some of the roads we drove were closed by snow.
I was fascinated by Katikati, the "mural city". Many of the downtown buildings are covered with beautiful paintings of New Zealand historical scenes. It's well worth seeing. Katikati is in a kiwifruit growing area where dairying used to proliferate.
Our drive took us around the edge of Tauranga, through Te Puke, the so-called "Kiwifruit Capital of the World", through Whakatane, Ohope, and Opotiki. The Whakatane area is full of early Maori history. All along this drive White Island, New Zealand's safety valve, is in view, always steaming away.
White Island is at the northern end of the Taupo- Rotorua volcanic zone--a volcanic belt which extends from the recently erupted Ruapehu across the Pacific to Samoa. There is intense thermal activity on the island. Sulphur mining was done on
the island until 1914 when an unexpected eruption swept away the entire mining settlement, leaving no trace of the 12 people who lived there.
The Ohope Beach area south of Whakatane is beautiful beyond description, with fabulously lovely empty stretches of sand, backed by pohutukawa trees. Surf boarding and surf casting are favorite activities here.
Mount Edgecumbe, a mountain sacred to the Ngatiawa tribe, stands alone in its splendor to the west of our route toward Gisborne. Each year there is a foot-race (and climb) to the top, with extensive views and a crater lake as a reward.
Gisborne and its environs was a lovely surprise for me. The whole area reminds me of California, but is neater and cleaner--and much less populated. The urban area population is around 35,000. There, are sun-drenched beaches, museums, several wonderful lookouts over the countryside and the harbor, lots of fruit and vegetable markets, and craft shops. I accomplished more of my gift shopping in Gisborne than anywhere else. It was at Gisborne that the first European settlers landed, and it's the first city in the world to see the sun each day.
Outside Gisborne, Clive and Beverley Kingsbeer, my long-time friends, have revamped their entire way of life. A few years ago they took a chance and moved from Auckland to an acreage north of Gisborne. They raise tangelos, oranges, and mandarins They moved a big house which used to be part of a nursing home onto the property and are slowly and painstakingly turning it into a lovely home for themselves. I slept in a room fit for a queen, with highly varnished floors, tall, tall windows looking out on the orchards, a large walk-in closet, and carefully selected furnishings.
Clive and Beverley have years of work ahead of them in refurbishing the house, but it appears to be a very rewarding effort for them, and I know they'll enjoy every bit of it.
Beverley cooked two wonderful dinners for us while we were visiting: my favorite was a beef roast with great vegies, and a Paviova for dessert. I was saddened to have to leave the Kingsbeers when the time came, but I hope to see them again.
The drive to Napier was under a cloudy sky--and uneventful but beautiful. I treated Betty and Richard to a very good midday meal at Napier's Cobb and Co. Excellent food, just the way I like it. Then Betty and I checked out some shops and I bought a few gifts to take home, some for myself.
On to Taupo, another motel and a bit more shopping. I enjoyed the New Zealand Woodcraft Shop a lot and nearby we spent an interesting hour or two at the Taupo Observatory in the Wairakei Research Centre. The exhibits are all about the "explosive past and present of the Taupo volcanic zone" presented by the Institute of Geological and Nuclear Sciences. Admission is free and the observatory is open 7 days a week. Well worth a visit.
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In Rotorua we had more rain, one night a really heavy storm. Fortunately it wasn't the evening that Betty and I had booked in at the hangi and show at the THC Hotel. I found the hangi evening to be even better than in past years. The performers, more of them, were so talented, and the food perfectly delicious. We sat across the table from a Pennsylvania couple, and others at the table were from New Zealand, Scotland, and China.
Part of the unexpected entertainment of the evening was by an elderly woman in a group from an Auckland retirement home who startled each of the Maori men who touched noses with her (hongi--Maori greeting), by grabbing each one around the neck for a huge hug. Another unexpected piece of entertainment was provided by a young Korean man who threatened the Maori warriors haka-style with extended tongue and fierce eyes. He gave as good as he got.
We were picked up for the hangi at our motel by van and returned there afterwards. We learned much about Rotorua from our driver, including the fact that Rotorua offers "10 and a half thousand beds" to visitors every night of the year. Also that the lovely, colonial-looking Prince's Gate Motel was brought board by board from Coromandel in 1901 and opened for business in about 1910.
I found shopping for gifts in Rotorua not very successful, and next time I'll skip the Herb Farm.
During the last week of my stay in TePuru Betty hosted an afternoon tea in my honor, with about 8 or 9 guests. The table was laden with sandwiches, cakes, and plenty of tea. It was a comfortable gathering and I felt truly honored.
Now the bad weather hit all through the country, and some of the roads we had traveled a few days before were impassable and there were some bad accidents.
All too soon my departure day arrived, and I had to say goodby to my dear friends, and to that blessed country. The flight home was pleasant, and soon I was united with my family. Oreo, my cat, aloof for a few hours, was soon snuggled in my tap.

Three motels we stayed in ranged from adequate to very good: Cedar Court in Napier, Motel Trianon in Taupo, and the Mokoia Motel in Rotorua.
Some foods and products I enjoyed in NZ this time are:
Horlicks (bedtime drink), Balance bread by Molenberg, Chamdor sparkling alcohol-free peach "brandy, and Olbas Oil for nasal or bronchial congestion.
I want to thank Mike McClelland and his staff for making great arrangements for my trip. Mike McClelland, The Best of New Zealand: 310-826-9105 or 800-528-6129. Karen was very helpful to me.

Doug and Ginger Dotson were my flying companions on my trip to NZ. They spent a week in NZ before leaving for some weeks in Australia.
I got the following comments from Ginger regarding their week in New Zealand: They were greatly impressed with the tourist information centers in every NZ town. There they got recommendations for and directions to places to stay overnight.
In Thames they stayed in the home of a former member of Parliament Gail McIntosh. They were interested in Mcintosh's comments on how the country is attempting to work its way out of socialism. Then later they saw the other side of the picture-- people out of work, worried and despondent.
Thames was the birthplace of "Black Magic", the America's Cup winner. The building of the boat was top secret in Thames--almost no one in town knew what was going on in that warehouse.
In Rotorua they enjoyed their stay with the Flemings at Braeside near Rainbow Springs, somewhat away from the fumes of center city. They were cozy and comfortable for half the price of the lovely Prince's Gate Hotel down town.
Upon arrival at Auckland they were met at the airport by John Heerdegen* who took them to his home on the North Shore, which is about 10 minutes by bus from the center of Auckland. There they were comfortable and well fed by John and his wife Pat.
Ginger and Doug were impressed and amused by the twice-daily changing of lanes on the Auckland Harbour Bridge. An Italian-made machine is used to make the lanes change, and is then housed in a "barn" at either end of the bridge.
The Dotson's are always impressed with New Zealand's transportation system throughout the country. Their rental car was from McDonald's, and the car and service was terrific. For reservations with McDonald's phone Southern Cross Tours, Hayden Lake, Idaho: Ph. 800-793-2999, fax. 208-762-7208.
* To contact John and Pat Heerdegen, phone! fax (09) 419-0731, or write: 89 Stanaway St., Auckland.

3-in-I NZ TRAVEL PASS
The YHA TravelPass facilitates travel throughout New Zealand via interCity Coachlines, New Zealand Rail and the Interislander ferry.
Three passes, ranging in duration from 8 days to 8 weeks, allow up to 22 days of transport on both North and South Islands. Prices begin at $421 and include airport transfers, YHA (Youth Hosteling International) accommodation vouchers and an information and discount pack.
Some of New Zealand's most scenic train voyages are included in TravelPass routes, including the Coastal Pacific Express along the rugged Pacific
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coast of South Island and the breathtaking TranzAlpine Express through the snowcapped Southern Alps.
For more information call Adventure Center at
800-228-8747.

NZ's FOREMOST COMPOSER TURNS 80
by Charles Eggen

Douglas Gordon Lilburn was born November 2, 1915 in Wanganui, New Zealand. His first years. until 1930 were mostly spent at the family station (farm) they called "Drysdale", at which time he was sent to the Waitaki Boys High School in Oamaru where he received his first formal piano lessons (his First Piano Sonata in C minor was composed in 1932).
He enrolled in Canterbury University College in 1934 where he won a Percy Grainger prize for his first tone poem "Forest". This led his father to send him to the Royal College of Music in London where from 1937-40 he studied composition from Vaughan Williams. While there he won the college's Cobbett Prize for his "Phantasy for String Quarter, and his "Aotearoa Overture" was first performed during the New Zealand Centenary celebration at His Majesty's Theatre, London, in 1940. Later that year he returned to New Zealand to find that his "Drysdale Overture", "Prodigal Country", and "Festival Overture" had won prizes in the New Zealand National Centennial Music Competitions. Most of the time from 1941-47 was spent in Christchurch when compositions such as his "Prelude and Fugue in G Minor" for organ, his "Four Preludes for Piano", his "Landfall in Unknown Seas" and the "Chaconne for Piano" were completed.
Lilburn established the Electronic Music Studio at Victoria University and devoted most of the '60s and '7Os to experimenting within the electronic form. In 1967 he established the Waiteata Press as a music publishing forum, which still exists to date. Most of his scores, manuscripts, writings, recordings and other personal papers and ephemera are archived at the Alexander Turnbull Library in Wellington.
Although Mr. Lilburn acquired an early love of Sibelius and had sincere regard for Vaughan Williams, he did not follow a nationalistic path, but developed a "naturistic" avenue that reflected his love of the landscapes of New Zealand. Being an avid tramper, he walked many of the treks and byways of the South Island, and to this day refers to his overgrown home lot in central Wellington as my jungle". His collaboration with New Zealand poets and other writers resulted in a distinct New Zealand musical art. He took seriously Vaughan Williams' advice: "Don't be clever, don't be
silly, don't try to impress--search for what is valid in your intuition, your understanding, and go from that". This undoubtedly was a factor in his leaving instrumental composition for electronic. His belief in the development of a New Zealand musical tradition apart from the Victorian one that was all too common until the mid-twentieth century was well expressed in his talk given January 1946 at the Cambridge, NZ Summer School of Music.
For additional information on recordings and scores, contact: Charles Eggen, P.O. Box 864, Springfield, OR 97477.

SENIORS ABROAD PROGRAM

Travelers who want to experience the culture of other countries through the people who live there should consider participating in Seniors Abroad trips. Americans who are 50+ are invited to live in homes of English- speaking families in their native countries, share their daily lives and learn about their customs.
The 3-week trips involve homestays in 3 different cities in each region. Participating regions include New Zealand/Australia, Scandinavia and Japan.
The New Zealand dates for 1996 are:
* Jan. 25-Feb. 17--Americans visit New Zealand and Australia with five different homestay hosts.
* June 16-July 4—Hosts needed for New Zealand and Australian visitors to US.
For more information write Seniors Abroad, 12533 Pacato Cir. N., San Diego CA or call 619-485-1696.

LETTER BOX

We have no plans at the moment for returning to NZ but our thoughts are never far away.
We love your news and keeping up with all that is going on there, so are renewing for another year.
Good luck to you. You're doing a great job.
Betty Wise, West Virginia

Eva, we were sorry to hear that your friend Richard couldn't locate the Walkers in Rotorua. "Ike" and Colleen are listed on p. 191 of the '94 edition of "The NZ Bed & Breakfast Book" (Jim & Janette Thomas's book).
The Walkers live in the Owhata area out by the airport because Ike drives an airport shuttle. Colleen works at the college (Waiarikk Polytechnic). They also host in their home, but we enjoyed the "granny flat" on the back of their lot it had 2 bedrooms and was very complete--down to staples in the kitchen. For the 3 of you, the tariff would have been NZ$6O and Colleen would have supplied the food for a bountiful breakfast.
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Ike is Maori and his given name is really Isaac. He's short, handsome and funny, and our fishing trip on his boat was one of the highlights of our February vacation.
For future reference: Colleen & Isaac (Ike) Walker, 13 Glenfield Rd, Owhata, Rotorua NZ. Tel. (07)345-3882 (after 5 PM).

KIWI CARL DOY, THE PLATINUM PIANIST by Mary Jane Boland (NZ Herald)

Carl Doy can thank his grandmother for the sale of over one million compact discs in the United States. For it was at grandma's that the young Doy first discovered his love for the piano.
As a 6-year-old Doy would make any excuse to visit his grandmother's house. After niceties were completed, he'd rush into her lounge to play the piano. Doy taught himself until at 14 he realised that lessons probably weren't a bad idea.
His enthusiasm won him a place at London's Royal College of Music. Thirty years later the studies have paid off.
In August Doy's compilation album Piano By Candlelight reached platinum status in the US, selling over one million copies. New Zealand sales are over 150,000, making Doy one of the biggest-selling artists in NZ. Not bad for a kid who taught himself the difference between sharps and flats.
He was surprised the CD even passed the marketing test. "From so far away I tended to be a bit pessimistic and thought that it would be good to sell even 100,000 copies. Then it clocked up gold (500,000 copies) and eventually platinum".
Doy attributes the CD's success to picking the right sort of melodies. After working as musical director on cruise ships and playing in hotel lobbies for years, Doy believes he has an idea of the tunes people want to hear. The most common request is Memory from Andrew Lloyd Webber's musical Cats.
Melodies range from famous movie and show themes-- Evergreen and Cavatina - to the likes of Whitney Houston's The Greatest Love of All.

WILD SOUTH VIDEO COLLECTION

There is now a large selection of the world- renowned Wild South Video Collection. There is the Wild Antarctic Collection, Wild New Zealand Collection, Wild Seas Collection, and a new release The Realm of the Rhododendron.
These films have received recognition and awards at international film festivals world-wide. You can order them in N.T.S.C. format (Canada, US).
Wild South, P.O. Box 474, Dunedin, New Zealand, or fax your order to 0-3-479 9917. Credit card orders can be phoned through on 0-3-479-9799. You can ask to be added to their mailing list.

BACKPACKERS' COACH EXPERIENCES
- from FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) from Internet and various sources in NZ

Backpackers' bus routes: These stop at interesting places as you go. You can hop off at any stop and rejoin them at the same time the next day or any day they pass through.
Kiwi Experience (KE) have a package called the "Back Paddock" which runs from Christchurch through Arthur's Pass to Greymouth then down the West Coast and back to Chch via Wanaka, Queenstown, and Mount Cook. For NZ$204, you need a minimum of 6 days and can take up to 3 months to finish. They take you to a few places on the way. You pay for your own accommodation and any entrance fee to any sights. KE runs daily so there is no problem with stopping as long as you like.
Magic Travellers' "Tranzalpine" is very similar to the "Back Paddock" but swaps Mount Cook for Dunedin. For $229, your route needs a minimum of 7 days and should be valid for 3-6 months. The network only runs every other day so if you want to stay longer than one night, you may end up staying 3 nights. Tourist Information Centres may handle all the bookings for you.

VOLCANIC DEBRIS (NZ Herald)
Life in the shadow of an uneasy Mt. Ruapehu is starting to return to normal for the owners of one of the farms closest to the mountain. Noelene and Brent Bishop of the property aptly named Lahar Farm have an unobstructed view of the puffing mountain but say they do not feel threatened by it.
They have farmed in the area for more than 10 years, and have a good knowledge of Ruapehu's volcanic past. The debris from lahar of years gone by is strewn across the farm, which covers 600ha at Horopito.
The couple and their three children spent most of the big weekend on the deck watching the action, and capturing the lahar flows on video to show their farmstay guests who do not understand the origins of the prop- erty's name.
The Bishops' major concern is the possibility of ash falling across the farm, which would cover the grass and prevent lambing ewes from feeding.

READERS - Please send in articles and letters for the next issue. Thank you.
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