Volume XI, No. 2

DECEMBER 1998

WHAT'S NEW

Whether you're heading up a mountain or out to sea, the most comprehensive outdoor guide to New Zealand is NEW ZEALAND OUTSIDE: The Annual and Directory. This beautifully color- illustrated reference book highlights the enormous number of adventure opportunities available in this remarkable country. You'll find detailed information on New Zealand's top outdoor operators with regional maps of the areas listed.

Apart from being an excellent directory, it contains inspiring stories of New Zealand adventurers with breathtaking photos. For more information, check out the website at http://www.outside.nz.com or call 011 643 326 7516 or fax 011 643 326 7518.

QUITE A TREK - New Zealand Herald

You want to attempt Everest but can't afford the airfare? Less expensive is New Zealand's highest guided trek—the Ball Park Crossing.

Situated in Mt. Cook National Park, the crossing takes experienced hikers from the Tasman Glacier to Caroline Hut. The hut is located opposite the Caroline face of Mt. Cook and offers views of avalanches thundering off the face.

Alpine Recreation takes the three-day hikes. Hikers spend two days at the hut: on day two they climb an easy peak near the pass. The third day is the most strenuous, when participants climb the 2130m pass, then descend the Hooker Valley into Mt Cook village.

The Tekapo-based company has noticed a 60 per cent increase in the numbers of hikers keen to try the crossing. The company also takes walking tours through other South Island national parks. Hikes vary from two to six hours each day. Details: Alpine Recreation, Box 75, Lake Tekapo, or ph (03) 680- 6736.

And if you're still standing after the Ball Park Crossing, there's another worthy trekking venture further south. Catlins Wildlife Trackers has just won the activity and adventure section of the New Zealand Tourism Awards.

Run by Fergus and Mary Sutherland, the company takes visitors around little-used tracks in South Otago. Wildlife is prevalent in the area— especially yellow-eyed penguins, fur seals and sooty shearwaters. Other highlights include podocarp rainforest and native bush.

The Sutherlands limit each group to eight people. Accommodation is provided at the family's home.

The tourism award is the company's second honour. In 1993 it won an ecotourism award for commitment to the environment. Details: Catlins Wildlife Trackers, Papatowai, RD 2, Owaka, Otago, or ph (03) 415-8613.

KiWI EXPERIENCE

The Kiwi Experience offers great buys on their flexible bus passes for backpackers and adventure- minded independent travelers who want to get off the beaten track. They offer a diverse series of passes which take in most of the scenic, natural, and cultural attractions of the country.

Best of all, you have the freedom to get on and off the bus at any point on the route and as often as you wish for up to 12 months. The trips link scenic and adventure attractions, and there is time to visit out of the way places so you can experience local activities ranging from bush walking to bungy jumping. There are guaranteed frequent departures and you can change your travel plans at a moment's notice without penalties.

For more information, check out their website www.ozexcom.auor fax 011 649366 1374.

ART DECO BUILDINGS - from Stamp FOCUS, New Zealand Post

For such a young country, New Zealand boasts a wide range of architectural styles throughout its cities. However, for any construction undertaken in the 1930's, one style in particular was dominant — Art Deco.

The rise in New Zealand of Art Deco, or modernism as it was known than, was in part brought about by the Napier earthquake in 1931, which obliterated most of the town.

Before the enormous rebuilding that was to follow, comparisons were made between Napier and the young Californian city of Santa Barbara, which had been rebuilt to a uniform style after earthquake destruction. It was considered to be one of California's most beautiful cities as a result.

Napier today is sometimes called the Art Deco capital of the world, and many of its buildings are both beautiful and famous. The Rothmans building was built sparing no expense and is considered a classic. The bank of New Zealand building is also highly interesting, with its extraordinary blend of Art Deco styling and Maori art. The two are perfectly combined, creating an effect that is both Art Deco and a unique statement of New Zealand.

Other New Zealand cities are also home to some stunning examples of Art Deco. The Civic Theatre in Auckland is thought of as the country's most spectacular theatre building, and has many outstanding features typical of the Art Deco style.

The Hotel Waterloo and the Hotel St. George in Wellington also provide excellent examples of the period. This four stamp issue shows classic examples of Art Deco architecture from around New Zealand.

(For information or to join the New Zealand Post mailing list for stamp collectors please write to: Stamps Centre, New Zealand Post Limited, Private Bag 3001, Wanganui, NZ.)

NADINE WHIPS UP RAREST WORLD'S THICKSHAKE - Marlborough Express

To make the world's rarest thickshake, take one serving of kakapo droppings, add a drop of red food colouring and blend for half a second.

If this is not to your taste, spare a thought for Nelson's Department of Conservation employee Nadine Parker. She spends 40 hours a week studying the droppings of the kakapo, one of New Zealand's rarest birds.

Because of this, Ms Parker is reluctant to tell people what she does for a job.

"Usually I tell them I'm doing a diet study, sometimes I just tell it like it is, but then I have to try and convince people that it's actually quite a cool job."

Part of her job as a technical assistant on the national kakapo team involves making "poo shakes" where the droppings are mixed together with a colourant to highlight plant cuticles, allowing Ms Parker to see what each bird has been eating.

The droppings look like coils of spaghetti. They are collected by hand from Codfish Island, near Stewart Island, and Maud Island in Pelorus Sound. Put in plastic bags, they are then dated and sent by courier post to a giant freezer in Ms Parker's office.

Ms Parker estimates there are more than 1500 individual samples in her freezer waiting to be blended into a shake and examined.

Although her job sounds amusing Ms Parker's research is an integral part of the kakapo recovery programme.

There are only 57 kakapo left in the world, restricted to a few off-shore islands.

A key to saving the birds from extinction is discovering what makes them breed. It is suspected fruit from the rimu tree plays an important part in the process, but other food sources may also be involved. Ms Parker's research may help identify these "triggers".

"If they could lay eggs like they poo they'd be all right," said Ms Parker.

She said she would keep examining the droppings of the herbivorous kakapo until she found the answer to what made them breed. "Hopefully before the freezer's empty, otherwise I could be here forever."

If they were stuck with a lot of excess kakapo excretions, Ms Parker suggested "casting them in resin and selling them as paper weights to tourists". NZPA

NORTH ISLAND EXPLORATIONS - by Gary Ball

The recent KIWIphile FILE article about a trip around the South Island mentioned the great food of New Zealand: the kumera (one of my favorites, and I, too, wish we could get them in the United States), the Cadbury candies (the Pinky bar is one of my favorites), the gingernut cookie (a ginger snap made by Griffins in Lower Hutt and again one of my favorites), the L & P lemon drink, DB beer (Domain Brewery beer—locally brewed and enjoyed by me), and the fish and chips (made from freshly caught fish that morning). All these

brought back some very fond memories of New Zealand.

I left L.A. on Sunday, June 28 about 10 PM. I flew on Quantas Airlines to Auckland. An interesting thing happened to me on the flight over to New Zealand. hi the seventh hour of the flight, an airline flight attendant came and got me, along with three children ranging in ages of 4 to 8 years, and we had the chance to go on the flight deck where the pilots fly the 747 jet I asked the flight attendant if I could see the inside cockpit where the pilots work. I didn't think I would get the chance to go inside their quarters, but the 747 chief pilot gave us permission to enter.

I was seated on a jump seat behind the pilot while the three children and flight attendant were gathered around the copilot. For the next fifteen minutes, the Quantas pilot who had flown for 37 years proceeded to show me the equipment in a 747. He showed the GPS system for navigation, the radar for weather, the jet controls, etc.. I was totally fascinated by the experience. I looked out the windows and saw total blackness. I could not see anything, not even clouds. The individual viewing windows (24 in. by 18 in.—just a guess) for the pilots were not as big as I had thought for a jet of that size. I was totally surrounded by electronic equipment and it looked like a lit up Christmas tree with a variety of colored lights. The copilot had the chore of answering the children's questions. After thanking the flight crew for inviting us into the cockpit, we returned to our seats.

The rest of the flight was uneventful. We sat down in Auckland on Tuesday, June 30, at about 6 AM after a 12 hour and 15 minute flight. This was the fifth time I had landed at Auckland Airport in my visits to New Zealand over the last 15 years. When I come to New Zealand l usually spend half the time visiting very good friends, and the other half touring on my own. I usually take bus tours through the country. I like the change of pace of New Zealand versus the haste in Los Angeles. It is great to breath the fresh air and get out of the rush hour traffic of the LA freeways.

After clearing customs and the agricultural inspection, I caught a domestic flight to Wellington. I was met by very good friends and spent a week and a half on a sheep farm outside Masterton. Masterton is about a 1 1/2 hour drive over the Wairarapa Mountains from Wellington and the farm was about a 20 minute drive from Masterton. I enjoy very much the farm environment and it is a great place to raise children. During my stay the wife of the farm plus her older son and I drove back to Wellington to see some of the sights.

In all my visits to NZ I had never experienced a visit to Parliament. The day we took the tour, the Parliament was not in session. The tour of Parliament is free and takes about an hour to complete. The tours leave every half hour. No cameras or electronic equipment are allowed on the tour. The tour leads you through various government buildings. It is extremely hard to find close parking to the Parliament buildings.

One of the highlights of the tour was to visit the actual Parliament hall where the members meet. In this room there is a beautiful Maori wood carving on the wall, and seating is divided by political parties. The National Party is the largest party with about 35%(?) of the total seats in Parliament. The New Zealand government is a minority coalition of different parties to make up a majority. The National Party is headed by Jean Shipley who is the present Prime Minister of the country.

New Zealand adopted a new style of Parliament makeup in 1996 called MMP. The MMP system is based on the German style Parliament. I do not know much about the workings of this style of Parliament. One big difference with the MMP system is that a single voter gets to cast two separate votes— one vote is for the individual candidate and one vote is for a specific political party. A person could vote for a very liberal candidate and then cast their other vote for a very conservative political party.

Another interesting fact about Parliament is that the majority of people think the "Beehive" building is where the members of Parliament meet. The Beehive building is used mainly as an office building that supports various Parliament activities. The MMP members meet in a long column building to the right of the Beehive called the "Parliament House".

After we finished touring the Parliament it was time for lunch. We ate at a place called the Backbencher which is a restaurant/tavern located across the square from the Parliament complex. What makes this place so unique is that the Backbencher has full size 3D cartoon lookalikes of the members of Parliament hanging on the wall. These figures are really funny and look like drawings found in political cartoons. I like the place for the atmosphere and food. Everything is very informal and you can sometimes see a member of Parliament eating there. Food prices are from NZ$8 to 15 for a good lunch and beverage.

The next place we visited after lunch was the newly opened Te Papa Museum. The museum opened a few months before I visited it in July. The museum is housed in a new ultramodern four story building.

The outside of the building is covered in bright square patches of different colors. Te Papa is not the old-

fashioned type of museum, but is a hands-on place. Children are encouraged to explore and handle the objects in the museum. Te Papa is New Zealand's natural museum of cultural heritage and natural environment. Parking is difficult to find and the lots around the museum fill up quickly. Parking costs NZ$7 but museum entry is free.

Since we had limited time, we saw only a fraction of the displays and exhibits at the museum. The first area we visited was the natural history area. This consisted of the early geological formation of New Zealand along with displays of early animal and plant life. A display was set up where a couple of people could enter a structure and feel a strong simulated earthquake that occurs quite frequently in New Zealand. The next area we explored was a display of an actual Maori village. The Maori were the first people who settled New Zealand. The historically accurate village was partly built by Maons. I found it fascinating to explore the culture of the original settlers of New Zealand.

The next area we set out to see was the outer space section. There were displays of Russian and United States space artifacts. There was an area that had meteor fragments from around the world. It had interactive displays for children learning about space, etc. We next looked at the recent history of the European settlement of New Zealand. There were displays of some of the early dwellings. There was an area showing changing clothing styles in the country through time. There were also some displays of early machinery and a view of how people worked in the early wool industry.

One highlight of our tour that we did not expect was finding a general store with all the old NZ artifacts of 100 years ago. In this general store there were theater seats in which to watch a movie of some of the history of NZ. The movie showed old advertisements of early products sold in New Zealand and some local cultural idioms which native born Kiwis knew instantly. The movie was a mixture of history, culture and humor of everyday life in New Zealand in the European settlement period. The old objects in the general store were rigged to go off at certain times to complement the scenes being shown in the movie. I really enjoyed seeing this show and the people who put it together did a great job. Everyone was laughing, and the half hour movie ended too soon.

Time was running short so we headed back to Masterton. To see the Te Papa adequately would take a good couple of days. I like the whole philosophy behind this museum structure. Anyway I ended up staying an extra few days with my friends in Masterton.

My scheduled visit to Rotorua was rained out. The central part of the North Island around the Rotorua/Lake Taupo area had some of the worst floods in 30 years. I saw daily scenes on New Zealand TV Channel I of flooded paddocks, blocked and collapsed major highways, and overflowing rivers and dams.

After my good-byes to my dear friends, I caught the passenger train to Wellington. At the train station there are vans that will drive you to the airport. The cost of the one-way train ticket from Masterton to Wellington was NZ$11. The cost of the van ride to the airport was NZ$8.

I flew from Wellington to Auckland on Ansett Airlines which is an Australian airline company. The majority of executives in New Zealand like to fly Ansett sccording to my NZ friends. I was met by very good friends at Auckland's domestic terminal. I was staying with them about half an hour outside of Auckland. During my stay I went to the center of Auckland to see some of the sights. One place I wanted to visit and had missed seeing in 1996 when it opened, was the Skytower.

The Skytower is a vertical slender style building similar in concept to the Seattle Space Needle. The structure can easily be seen on the Auckland skyline. The Skytower has a gambling casino on its first two floors and then raises a few hundred feet in the sky and has an observation deck and restaurant at its top. I paid for the deluxe tour that cost NZ$15 that allows outside access to the enclosed outdoor observation level. There is a basic NZ$3 tour which allows you to go to the indoor observation deck which is an enclosed glass and steel area.

One surprise which visitors will find in the

indoor observation deck is the glass floor areas around the parameter of the structure. These glass floor panels are about 1 meter by 1 meter (3 feet) in size. If you stand on them, you can look straight down a couple hundred feet to see the street literally below you. I was very startled when I first encountered this feature. According to the guide stationed in this area, the plexiglass is stronger than the steel support structure that holds the clear plastic glass in place. It was quite an eye opener, and I avoided these areas after my first encounter. I spent a short time looking at the gaming areas and found them similar to a Las Vegas casino. Harrah Casino of Las Vegas used to be partners with the original buildets of the Skytower.

It is worth visiting the Skytower to get to see the spectacular view of Auckland. On the day I was there it was quite cloudy, but I enjoyed seeing the city from a different perspective.

After spending a few days with my friends in Auckland, I caught a flight from Auckland to Los Angeles on Thursday, July 16 at 5:30 PM. The flight was uneventful and it took about 11 hours and 15 minutes to reach Los Angeles. As always, I had a great time visiting New Zealand and I would recommend that everyone see the sights described above.

PICTON - A FULLY SERVICED PARADISE

"I entered a beautiful bay surrounded with magnificent timber interspersed with extensive tracts of the richest soil..."

So wrote Captain William Stein in 1832 when he became the first European to give a recorded description of the bay where Picton now stands.

It was by sea that the early explorers found Picton—a legacy which still remains.

Today some million visitors a year stage at the township on their way to or from the South Island—by sea.

They arrive by car, bus, train, bicycle, campervan, motorbike and even on foot to board one of the ferries which ply the Cook Strait.

Several smaller buses travel the highways to

and from Canterbury, Nelson and the West Coast as do larger coachlines and tour operators.

However, getting to and beyond Picton has not always been so convenient.

"It is a strangely isolated place with no road anywhere but to its rival Blenheim.." summised Anthony Trollope in 1872.

And even to reach Blenheim was something of a journey !

In 1863 one Lewis Lewis started a coach service. For 10/6 he took passengers (and up to 14 lb of baggage) to Blenheim on Siinciays and Wednesdays, returning the following days.

Access improved considerably when the railway opened in 1875 and today The Coastal Pacific express runs a return trip daily from Christchurch.

Another option for reaching Picton, the South Island and the Marlborough Sounds is by air.

The idea of an amphibious aircraft was mooted as early as 1936 but did not become a reality until 1973.

The Interislander line operates road/rail ferries between Picton and Wellington around the clock seven days a week. From December to April the line also runs a fast feny which takes vehicles and passengers between the islands in one and three quarter hours instead of the usual three.

A new operator Seacat also rims a fast ferry between Picton and Mana, which is just north of Wellington, with three trips a day in summer and two in winter.

But however you find your way to or from Picton, allow some time to enjoy the town itself and sample the hospitality which is the gateway to the South Island.

NEW ZEALAND FISHING CALENDAR

December - Summer begins December 21, the longest day of the year. One of the least crowded months for foreign visitors though a lot of New Zealand businesses close during the December 15- January 15 period for summer vacations so there are a great many New Zealanders out and about during this period. Very good fishing on all lakes, streams and rivers. An excellent dry fly and nymph fishing period. Spring flowers still available. Salt water: Striped Marlin, Yellowtail, Kahawai.

January - Stream fishing on both islands excellent, both dry and wet. Some good wet fly and streamer fishing continuing at stream mouths. South Island streams fish well on dry and nymph. Popular time for visiting anglers. Salt water: Striped Marlin prime, Yellowtail, Kahawai.

February — Usually the hottest month of the year. Weather very settled for fishing in mountain streams. Still water fishing excellent. Great time for helicopter fishing in remote rivers. Popular time for visiting anglers. Salt water: Striped Marlin prime, Yellowtail, Kahawai.

(The above from FISHING INTERNATIONAL, P0 Box 2132, Santa Rosa CA 95405. 707-539-3366 or 800-950-4242).

BOOKS

THE NEW ZEALAND BED. & BREAKFAST

BOOK: 9th Edition: If you have any interest in New Zealand bed and breakfasting, you couldn't consult a better volume than this. The book is enchantingly illustrated, and the infonnation about most of the more than 400 listings are written by the host, and you'll be intrigued by the warmth, charm and hospitality so obvious in each of the descriptions.

Campervans are welcome at many B&Bs, as you'll note in the listings. Laundry, bathroom, electricity and even meals are often offered to camper- vanners at reasonable rates.

The New Zealand Bed and Breakfast Book can help insure a memorable trip. Included are telephone numbers, types of accommodations available, prices, nearest towns, and directions.

The warm, friendly individuals who open up their homes to overnight guests are eager to share their passion for their country and strive to make your stay as comfortable as possible.

Readers may order toll free from Pelican Publishing Co. at 1-800-843-1724, or visit your local bookstore.

YOU CAN TRAVEL FREE - by Robert Wm Kirk

Author Robert Wm Kirk has traveled nearly 500,000 miles around the world—FREE. Here, in his most thorough collection of travel secrets, he shares more than one hundred free travel strategies that anyone may follow.

Kirk offers practiced techniques for traveling with little or no money, obtaining complimentary accommodations, cruising for free, and more—all of which are perfectly legal. In each chapter the author provides helpful addresses, telephone numbers, fax numbers, and e-mail addresses. Also, an entire chapter is devoted to listing valuable resources, including bar- gain newsletters, free brochures, etc.

Readers may order toll free from Pelican Publishing Co. at 1-800-843-1724, or check with your bookstore.

THE DROVING DAYS: A History of Cattle Raising and Droving in South Westland - by W.D. (Bill) Nolan. People walk the old Haast-Parrnga cattle track for fun these days, but for cattle drovers of decades ago it was part of a three-week slog to the nearest saleyards at Whataroa.

In his book The Droving Days, Bill Nolan recalls these epic journeys for which his family from south of Haast were renowned. He writes from exper- ience, having taken part numerous times from 1933 until 1958, just before the Haast Pass road link with Otago brought an end to long distance droving.

The narrow cattle track, where one slip could mean a long, fatal fall for stock, horse or drover, was just one phase in the 240km journey. There were also 15 rivers and countless other streams to cross in unpredictable weather. It was little wonder that some people preferred to sell their horses and return home by plane afterwards.

Still, amid the narrow escapes and the problems of controlling mobs of 150 or so semi-wild stock, there are plenty of lighter moments. too. Readers will get the distinct impression that Bill would probably do it all again fairly happily.

Verse by Bill's bush poet father Dinny, and some great photos from various people's collections complete an entertaining book.

Look for the book in New Zealand bookstores.

more for the next issue of

Kiwiphile file.

EDWIN FOX SOCIETY, Picton

In 1967, when the Edwin Fox was towed into Picton's Shakespeare Bay, the vessel showed its strength by refusing to settle quietly into its layby. Mooring ropes (breaking strain 80 tonnes) had been run ashore from bow and stern and made fast to substantial moorings. As the Fox settled with the first low tide, it heeled slightly away from the shore. The strain on one of the moorings was such that it was pulled right out from the shore end. But there was no sign of strain on the timbers of the ship.

For 20 years the weather and vandals took toll on this famous old ship until on November 4, 1986, after a pumping operation that lasted five hours, the ship once again came to life and floated

For the next weeks feverish activity by dedicated Society members and volunteer helpers turned the Edwin Fox once more into a proud ship, riding quietly at anchor, and ready for the short voyage back into Picton Harbour and a final berth..

With over 300 tonnes of ballast removed, the vessel rode higher in the water, showing the upper works in need of much conservation work, but almost no leaks and the underwater outer skin, and the inner timbers as good as the day the ship was launched in1853.

Built of teak in the Bengal province of India in 1853, the Edwin Fox has a historical record of maritime service from tea trader to troop ship in the Crimean War; from merchant ship.between Britain and India, to convict ship to Fremantle, Western Australia; from immigrant ship to both Australia and New Zealand to freezer meat trade; more latterly as a coal hulk in Picton; some years of lying in disrepair, and now once again to become famous worldwide, the last of its kind.

The ship will be preserved—and opened as a maritime museum for future generations to study the culmination of 300 years of wooden ship construction. There will be a display of the various roles she played in maritime history, and the primitive conditions that were common during a long sea voyage under sail.

The hull timbers are being kept wet pending commencement of work. A comprehensive survey started in 1987, under the direction of maritime archeological staff from the West Australian Maritime Museum and assisted by the International Earthwatch Organisation, was completed in February 1988. From this survey detailed plans are available and requirements of materials known. Docking facilities are to be built before preservation and conservation of the vessel becomes apparent.

Once the ship is safely docked a suitable building will be erected over the vessel and the final phases of conservation can proceed.

During this whole period work of interest to the public will be in progress; a shore-side complex has been established where artifacts from the ship are on display. Dunbar Wharf, Picton, NZ, will be known to ship lovers world-wide, linking this famous old ship with its home port of the 1860's: Dunbar Wharf on the Thames, London, England.

The Edwin Fox, the 9th oldest ship in the world, is a lasting symbol of the many immigrant ships that came to New Zealand in the days of sail. Descendants of those pioneers, ship lovers and the public at large, will take an interest in the preservation of the Edwin Fox, a permanent example of our maritime history.

GISBORNE 2000 - The World's

Premier Year 2000 Event

The GISBORNE HERALD newspaper reports that an independent review, commissioned by the Gisborne District Council and undertaken by international consultants Ernst & Young, has given the thumbs up to the "Gisborne 2000" celebration.

"Gisborne 2000" will be staged on the Gisbome waterfront facing across the bay to the eastern horizon where the sun rises.

Distinctly themed as "The First Light", the celebration of the millennium will be. a specially choreographed festival of world class entertainment and state-of-the-art sound and visual effects, said Bruce Bell, Chairman of the Year 2000 Festival Com- pany Limited, organizers of the event

"The festival will showcase the relationship between art, technology and commerce to impart a

continuous sense of wonder and anticipation as the epic moment draws nearer."

"The powerful, inspiring celebrations have been designed to entertain, yet create significant and extraordinary moments of reflection and fellowship, awe and jubilation. We promise surprise after breathtaking surprise, acts by world class performers and dramatic ancillary shows."

Mr. Bell confirmed special ceremonies would mark the particularly poignant moments of sunset, midnight and dawn.

In addition to the planned 25,000 overseas visitors who will join in the festivities as part of their Gisborne 2000 tour programme, he anticipates some 10,000 New Zealanders will attend the festival.

The aim for "Gisborne 2000" is very simple— that it will be the "opening extravaganza to world celebrations for the arrival of the year 2000, in the very first city on earth to cross the line into the new millennium!"

Lucky us. Few people who ever

walk the earth have the opportunity to ring in, all at once, a new year, a new decade, a new century, and a new millennium!

LETTER BOX

At 80 years we don't think we will make it to New Zealand again, but oh, how we love hearing all about it.

We pass along KIWlphile to those we know are going to NZ.

Keep up the good work. Don't stop publishing.

Betty Wise, WV

I bought some cookies at the Whole Foods Store at Northridge. The cookies were made in New Zealand and were a combination of Kiwifruit and shortbread—very good! The cookies were made from flour, sugar, New Zealand butter, and New Zealand kiwifruit. The cookies are called Kiwifruit Cookies and manufactured by Aotea Baking Company Ltd, P.O. Box 14674, Panmure, Auckland, NZ.

I am wondering if anyone knows where to buy other New Zealand cookies and candies in the U.S. I would like to buy some "Gingernut Biscuits" and "Pinky" candy bars.

G., Calif.

(Ed. - please let us know if you have information on this. Thanks.)

NEWS BRIEFS -

from N.Z. Backpackers News

(The New Zealand Backpackers News opens the door for visitors to NZ! For absolutely no cost or obligation a complimentary copy of the newspaper will be mailed overseas. Contact: NZ BACKPACKERS NEWS, 50 Somme St., St. Albans, Christchurch, NZ).

Christmas greetings: New Zealand Backpackers News wishes everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Prepare yourself for plenty of roast ham and turkey—loosen the straps on your pack! For many travellers from the northern hemisphere the novelty of Christmas down under will be the wanner weather. Expect most destinations to be busy as Kiwis travel for their annual holiday. It's also a good idea to book your accommodation a day or two in advance at this time of year.

Fast ferry service begins: The Lynx fast ferry service opens for the summer season from Dec. 9 until April 18. Reservations can be made on 0800 802 802.

The climate is mild year round as the Nikau palms suggest and the lush evergreen rain forest and pastures impart. In this soothing environment you can renew your energy whilst discovering some of the exquisite works of nature.

Volcanic Hazard in crater area: Mount Ruapehu is an active volcano and there is constant risk of increased volcanic activity. A medium risk warning area is currently in place. The Dome Shelter is just outside the 500 metre medium risk warning area. People venturing closer than 500 metres from the crater need to be aware that toxic gas could be emitted. People should not climb down into the crater as areas of gas may be present. For more info contact the Whakapapa Visitor Centre Ph 078923729.

NEWZGRAM - the News Aerogramme of New Zealand

(Newzgram is a news publication produced for Kiwis living abroad {and for those of us who live elsewhere but love NZ}. For more information or a free sample, write Newzgram, Mead Publishing Ltd, P.O. Box 22022, Khandallah, Wellington, NZ. Email: Newzgram@xtra.co.nz)

From Newzgram: In a decision that will gladden the hearts of many, a disputes tribunal referee in the Auckland District Court has ordered a telemarketer to pay an Auckland businessman $100 for wasting his time by making unsolicited calls.

Josh Easby repeatedly asked the telemarketing firm to stop calling him. Eventually he told the telemarketer that if he was rung again he would charge for his time. It continued to ring him every month.

At the hearing adjudicator Moana Avia decided that a contract had effectively been entered into and ordered the the telemarketer to pay Mr. Easby within 28 days.

From Newzgram: A United States survey has found that New Zealand has more Internet-connected computers per head of population than anywhere else in the world.

Dr. William Vivanco of Ruakura Research Centre said that it is thought the original cattle may have been shorthorns but nobody knows for sure. However, because the cattle were left to their own devices in such a desolate place with little food, the natural selection process took over, their characteristics were modified, and they ate anything available, including seaweed. It is the ability to survive harsh and extremely cold con- ditions that makes the breed of particular interest. In 1993 the cattle were rescued from the island but only Lady survived. The hope for the future lies in her son—a little black bull calf born of a surrogate mother implanted with an embryo resulting from the fusion of an egg from Lady and the frozen sperm of an Enderby Island bull. Fifteen other embryos did not survive, but Dr. Vivanco is hopeful that more calves may be born in the future.

SOUTH PACIFIC

TRAVELLER'S BOOKSOURCE

We want to remind you of the South Pacific Traveller's Booksource. The store is located at P.O. Box 55, Wooster, OH 44691. Ph. 330-262-7821. E- mail: sptbooks@bright.net

They sell travel books, maps and B&B books for both Australia and New Zealand. They are in the process of adding some new titles such as Smoother Ride Guides A US & NZ Where to Stay and Things to See and Do. There will soon be a new brochure available.

Here in brief are a few titles available:

New Zealand Bed & Breakfast Book A1161

Friars Guide to New Zealand Accommodation

For Discerning Travellers — A2020

New Zealand Handbook ( Jane King) — A1125

New Zealand Lonely Planet — A 111

Day Tours in New Zealand (Automobile

Association Guide) A2021

Trout Fishing. So. Island — A2045 or North (A2044)

New Zealand Gardens Open to Visit - A2019

There are many, many more books and maps. Best to inquire.

MARUIA SOCIETY

I have mentioned the Maruia Society several times in the past. The Society publishes a New Zealand Native Forests calendar each year which is great for your home or for gifts to others. The 1999 calendar is especially beautiful, and the year 2000 calendar can also be ordered at this time-at NZ$14.

Maruia Society, P.O. Box 756, Nelson, New Zealand. The Maruia Society is working to protect New Zealand's superb natural areas, as well as helping to face other environmental issues—ones involving people and the environment we live in.

Maruia wants to see New Zealand's clean, green image become a reality. They want both industry and rural land users to reach high environmental standards—so that the atmosphere is maintained in good health and New Zealand's rivers and coastal waters are maintained in a swimmable, fishable condition. They want soil erosion curbed and trees back on the land, new sources of renewable energy built and energy efficiency encouraged, so that no more of New Zealand's wild and scenic rivers are dammed.

The Maruia Nature Company is a privave company, but supports the environmental work of the Maruia Society with a percentage of their profits. Their aim is to promote clean — green - New Zealand. Their catalog contains fascinating New Zealand products that people interested in New Zealand will enjoy—the T-shirts and cards especially, and they are easy posting as well. Keep in mind economy rate postage averages about 2 weeks to North America and is very reasonable considering overseas parcels are not charged with GST (an automatic 12.5% discount).

NEW ZEALAND NEWSZINE

If you're on the internet you'll want to read the "independent newszine for the modern ecotraveler" published on the net by Evan Bloomfield of Queenstown. Below are a couple examples of what is included in this fun and informative publication.

(If you wish to subscribe <mailto:

KIAora@KiwiNewZ com with NEWSZINE in the SUBJECT. The newsletter is available by subscription only.

Sponsored by Catlins Coastal Link Wanna see a Hector Dolphin? How about a NZ Sea Lion? Or maybe a Yellow Eyed Penguin? What about all three in one day? That's what could happen with Catlins Coast Link when you join their guided eco adventure tour between Invercargill and Dunedin. Our Catlins correspondent reports that the Hector Dolphins have been putting on a great display in the waves at Curio Bay and the penguins have their recently born chicks sticking close by.

If you are thinking of visiting this neck of the woods make sure you hitch a ride with the experts' For more info or to get a copy of their fab new brochure <mail to:info@southern-nz.co.nz>

The Takahe is Extinct ! No it's not! Well it was until Dr. Geoff Orbell rediscovered them. This flightless bird (although unlike the kiwi it does have wings) has a bright red beak, brilliant multi coloured plumage and hangs out in tussock and small pockets of beech forest.

Recently on his 90th birthday and the 50th anniversary of his find, Dr. Orbell revisited the remote Takahe Valley in the Murchison Mountains, Fiordland, where he and his companions captured and photographed the Takahe in 1948.

Teetering on the verge of extinction an intensive campaign by the Department of Conservation has ensured that for now these rare birds will live on with a poulation of about 175. During his visit Dr. Orbell assisted with the release of four yearling birds into the wild, one of which departed with a sharp peck to his thumb.

The anniversary came amongst news of a possible sighting of the South Island kokako. Believed to have been extinct for over 30 years several tantalising clues have come to light recently, including two hunters hearing a distinctly different bird call and a bird flying low between trees, discovery of unusual moss grubbings, and the fmding of a feather.

Nelson ornithologist Rhys Buckingham has conducted several searches for the South Island kokako which is about the size of a magpie, has a steel-grey plumage and distinctive orange coloured wattles at the base of its beak. The North Island kokako has blue wattles and is not extinct. The kokako is renowned as a song bird.

BEFORE YOU GO

U.S. and Canadian travelers do not require a visitor's visa for stays less than three months, provided they have a valid passport not due to expire until three months after their departure from New Zealand.

They must also possess an onward/return ticket to a country to which they have permission to enter. In

addition, they must have sufficient funds to support themselves during their stay — approximately NZ$1000 per month per person. For further information, work permits, business visas, student visas, and immigration inquiries, contact one of the following:

In the U.S.

New Zealand Embassy

37 Observatory Cir., NW

Washington, DC 20008

Tel. (202) 328-4800

Fax (202) 667-5227

New Zealand Consulate

12400 Wilshire Blvd. Ste 1150

Lcs Angeles, CA 90025

Tel. (310) 207-1605

Fax (310)207-3605

In Canada:

New Zealand High Commission

99 Bank Street, Ste 727

Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6G3

Tel. (613) 238-5991

Fax (613) 238-5707

BLACK SHEEP TOURING COMPANY

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If you are considering a trip to NZ, we encourage you to call us for a list of references. Our recent guests are ready and willing to give you their opinion about their Black Sheep experience.

Black Sheep Touring Co., Ltd. 4222 Thackeray P1 NE, Seattle WA 98105. Ph. 800-206-8322. blksheep@aa.net