Volume XII, No. 2

DECEMBER 1999

NEW ZEALAND'S LADY OF THE LAKE -

By Stephen Harding in SEA CLASSICS

If you were to go looking for one of the world's' last working coal-fired passenger steamships, chances are you wouldn't think of heading to the high alpine country of New Zealand's South Island. Famed for its breathtaking scenery, clean air and daredevil adventure sports, the region around Queenstown is better known for sheep than for steamers. Fortunately for ship lovers, Queenstown is also home to the beautifully preserved twin screw steamship EARNSLAW. Built at the beginning of the century to haul passengers and freight the length and breadth of glacial Lake Wakatipu, the ship now earns her keep carrying tourists on scenic cruises and day trips. A voyage aboard her is both a delightful passage back in time and one of the best ways to experience the beauty of Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding, aptly named Remarkable Mountains.

Equally remarkable is EARNSLAW's history. Designed by noted New Zealand naval architect Hugh McRae, she was built during 1911 in the J. McGregor & Co. yards in Dunedin, a Pacific coast seaport some 170 miles southeast of Lake Wakatipu. Once fully assembled the 166-foot-long, 330-ton steamer was completely dismantled and shipped by rail to Kingston, a small port at the southern end of the lake. There EARNSLAW's 78 frame sections and 140 plates were reassembled, a task that required some 70,000 rivets. She was launched on 24 February 1912 and, after extensive fitting out, entered commercial service with New Zealand Railways eight months later.

EARNSLAW has done yeoman service on Lake Wakatipu ever since, and generations of area residents and guests have savored the splendor of New Zealand's southern alps from the ship's Kauri-wood decks. Nor has age slowed her down: Owned for some years by Queenstown-based Fiordland Travel, the ship still operates about 11 months out of the year. During that time, said Fiordland's Gary Duncan, the steamer

makes about 1400 lake crossings and carries about 100,000 passengers.

Whether taking the trip to the historic Walter Peak homestead—where visitors get a close-up and personal view of sheep, sheep dogs and the wool industry—or a relaxing lunch cruise, passengers may enjoy me sights from seats on the ship's exposed foredeck or from the enclosed main deck observation and cafeteria area. On occasion they may even join the captain in the steamer's small, wood-paneled wheelhouse or watch arrival or departure activities from the bridge wings. When the alpine air has given guests an appetite they may choose from a variety of offerings at a sit-down buffet or the ship's well-stocked snack bar, and all food is prepared fresh on board in the galley's ovens, stoves and deep flyers.

Each of EARNSLAW's voyages takes a significant amount of effort on her crew's part, for the vintage steamer is decidedly low-tech. She is powered by two 500 hp triple-expansion, jet-condensing steam engines driven by two locomotive-type flame-tube boilers (operating at 1880 lbs. of pressure per sq. inch) with superheater/steam-dryer tubes in the uptake to her single funnel. Stokers feed her with coal from the nearby Ohai mines; she has a 14-ton coal capacity and swallows about a ton an hour at her top speed of 13 knots. She is even steered by steam: when her skipper turns her wheel it activates a steam-steering engine, which moves the rudder via cables and chains running the length of the main deck.

As might be expected, keeping EARNSLAW shipshape requires more effort than that needed to maintain more modern vessels. Her beautiful Kauri decks, extensive wood paneling and many brass fittings require diligent care, as does the paint covering her superstructure, hull, funnel and the array of ventifators, winches and other gear dotting her upper works. Because her engines, boilers and auxiliary equipment are all original, in most cases obtaining original spare parts is impossible. Those who maintain her long ago

solved the problem, however, by making wooden patterns of virtually every part on the ship. This allows spares to be made as needed, said Gary Duncan, and ensures that EARNSLAW will, have all the parts she needs for the foreseeable future.

While New Zealand law dictates that EARNSLAW carry an emergency rescue beacon the other electronics in her small but well-appointed wheel-house are basic: a radar set with a 24-mile range, standard single side band marine radios, VHF sets and a cellular telephone.

"We use the radar at night and in poor weather," said Carter. There are no navigational challenges on Lake Wakatipu, and we've never had to use the emergency beacon. We also hope we never have to use her two lifeboats, 45 life rails, 12 life rings and 164 life jackets.

Though fairly placid, the 55-mile-long, Z- shaped Lake Wakatipu can occasionally turn surly, kicking up healthy rollers that send spray whipping across the steamer's foredeck. She takes it all in stride, however, for her 24-foot beam and seven-foot draft help make her a stable and predictable mount.

"EARNSLAW is a quiet-running vessel with a comfortable rolling motion on the days when the lake is rough," Carter added. "High winds can make her difficult to handle while 'berthing, though. She has a very large turning circle even with one engine full ahead and the other full astern. A modern vessel of similar size would be a lot easier to handle due to modern technology."

During the course of her long career EARNSLAW has had her share of minor mishaps— nudging her Queenstown dock, for example—but has never had a major accident. That enviable record is the result, Duncan said, of "having the best staff, paying attention to the weather and ensuring the ship has the best maintenance possible. As long as we keep up those standards, EARNSLAW can keep going indefinitely."

With luck and the continued dedication of those who serve her, that goal—-keeping New Zealand's Lady of the Lake underway 'for as long as possible—is clearly attainable.

MATAKOHE KAURI MUSEUM

Our displays tell the story of the magnificent kauri tree, its timber and its gum. This was a very important part of pioneering in northern New Zealand.

We have a fabulous exhibition covering 2,200 square metres. The souvenir shop has an exciting range of high quality kauri souvenirs.

The Museum is 140 km north of Auckland on State Highway 12 (2 hours drive).

The Gumdiggers Tea Rooms provide delicious refreshments.

Clean rest rooms are available.

We are open every day except Christmas day.

Hours: 9am — 5pm Easter to October

9am — 5:30 pm November to Easter

This attractive museum is administered by the Otamatea Kauri and Pioneer Museum Board. It enjoys wide community support and is very popular with New Zealanders and overseas visitors because it provides a stimulating insight into New Zealand history. The kauri theme provides an excellent story line which people can relate to. Displays span an extreme time scale from kauri gum in coal 43 million years old to exhibits still being crafted today.

Admission charges are very reasonable: Adults $1, Children (5-15) $2.50.

Postal address: Church Road, Matakohe,

Northland 1240, New Zealand.

Phone: 64 9 431 7417. Fax 64 9 431 6969.

http://www.hmu.auckland.ac.nz:8001/gilchrist/matakohe/

After your visit continue on a tour of Northland. View gigantic kauri trees at Waipoua Forest. Visit the beautiful Bay of Islands.

RENTAL CAR COMPANY FIND - by Judy Miller

On my most recent trip to New Zealand in July of this year I used a rental car company that I had not used previously: Omega Rental Cars Limited. Actually I found them on the "Net". Their rates were approximately $20 less per day than the other companies I checked and they included GST. You can purchase optional insurance for $8 a day or leave a $750 deposit on your credit card until you return the car. We picked up a Nissan Bluebird in Auckland, dropped it in Wellington and picked up a Toyota Corolla in Picton. Both cars were newer models, had automatic transmission, were clean and just what we needed. The staff was polite and helpful and we saved a bundle paying $NZ49 per day plus the optional insurance. You can either take the car across on the ferry with you (not included in rental price) or drop the car in Wellington and pick up another in Picton. If you opt to take advantage of the second option they do require that you rent for at least 4 days on each island. This company handles rentals a little differently than others I have used but once you know what's going on it's quite simple.

They have rental offices in Auckland (2), Wellington, Picton and Christchurch. The one in Picton shares space with another company (can't remember which one) and only has a small sign in the window identifying it as Omega. Be sure to ask the location when making a booking.

If you are picking up the car in Auckland, returning it in Wellington and picking up a new vehicle in Picton, returning it in Christchurch as we did, this is the routine.

Clear customs, then go to the Visitors Information Center just outside the customs hail where there is a direct line to Omega. Just pick it up and dial the number listed on the display board above the phone. If you have any questions, just ask the very nice lady behind the counter.

You will be directed where to wait and someone will bring the car around, load your baggage and drive you back to their oftices (in an industrial area near the airport) to complete the paperwork. You will be given directions to your destination.

In Wellington you will be directed to return the car to Omega's downtown rental office and given directions which are fairly easy to follow. A suggestion... if you are taking the early (9am) ferry and are traveling on a week day it might be a good idea to get accommodation near the downtown area to make returning the car easier in the morning traffic. We were traveling on a weekend and bad no problem coming in from north of the city.

We had made arrangements to return the car at 8am; however, when we arrived at the location given no one was there. We just waited for a few minutes and a young lady drove up, identified herself and took us immediately to the ferry terminal.

Again, in Picton look for the small Omega sign. I wasted 15 minutes trying to find them as I hadn't been given this little detail. Be sure to ask when booking or when returning the car in Wellington. When we picked up the car in Picton we were given directions to the Christchurch rental office and upon delivering the car there were driven back to our accommodation.

This is not quite as convenient as renting from one of the airport-based companies, but I felt the savings were worth the extra effort.

Omega Rental Cars:

Phone (from the U.S.): 64-9-377-5573.

Fax: 64-9-377-5573.

E-mail: rent-car@akldnz.co.nz

(They do say you can book over the internet, but I had no luck trying to get through to them but had no problem using the fax. I find that faxing New Zealand costs about 50 cents a page—cheaper than a stamp).

THE HIDDEN VALLEY by Judy Miller

The following is an excerpt from a brochure for the Hidden Valley.

"Situated just 25 minutes north of Taupo and 45 minutes south of Rotorua, nestled on the shores of Lake Ohakuri lies 'The Hidden Valley' of Orakei Korako Geyserland and Cave. Wander through a valley of unbelievable colour, of bubbling hot springs, gushing geysers, the majestic 'Aladdin's Cave' and unimaginable natural beauty preserved by its isolation from the outside world. Access to Orakei Korako is by boat, at no extra charge. Average sightseeing time is about one hour. Boats do not run to a time table, so you may visit the valley as soon as you arrive if you wish."

Having visited Whakarewarewa Thermal Fields several times, Cathy and I decided to give them a miss on our July trip in order to do other things. At the hotel we found a brochure for "The Hidden Valley" and since it was on our way decided to give it a try. We were very pleasantly surprised and I liked it better than Whaka. Not so commercial and hidden in a little valley that reminds you of Jurassic Park. You are taken across the small lake by boat and then left on your own to wander around as long as you like.

The trails are well laid out with some boardwalks and lots and lots of steps. The highlight is Ruatapu (Aladdin's) Cave, and admittedly it is quite a climb down and back up, but you wouldn't want to miss it. I just took my time and rested every few feet and made it just fine. You can do as little or as much of the track as you want and there are lots of resting places. By the time you drive in from the main road, have a good look around and get back to the main road you should plan about two hours. We almost gave up too soon when driving in, as it seemed like a long way, but were certainly glad we didn't.

When you get to Rotorua you should be able to find a brochure in your accommodation or at the visitors center. Cost is $15 and they have cabins, a souvenir shop, tearooms, petrol and boats and canoes for hire. Off the beaten path and well worth the price.

(Editor: Copies of Judy Miller's book Kiwi Tales are still available. It's a beautifully presented little book, full of tales of New Zealand and facts you will be glad to have. Contact Judy at 12630 Galleon Cir., Anchorage, AK 99515).

NEW ZEALAND MULTI-SPORT

Fourteen-day inn tour features trekking in six national parks, sea kayaking in Milford and Marlborough Sounds, swimming with dolphins,

canoeing the Porari River, exploring the Franz Josef glacier and mountain biking into Queenstown's backcountry.

The itinerary is flexible and travelers may participate in as many or as few activities as they wish. Land cost starts at $2,250.

Roads Less Traveled, 2840 Wilderness Place #F, Boulder, CO 80301; phone 800/488-8483 or 303/413-0938, or fax 303/413-0926.

KIRRA TOURS LIMITED OF NEW ZEALAND

Kirra Tours Limited of New Zealand has appointed World Wide Tours & Travel as their only US representative! Kirra Tours offers escorted motorcoach tours from 4 days to 18 days with pre- and post- extensions available. The unique advantage to utilizing Kirra Tours is that their brochures are priced in New Zealand dollars with no US mark-up! The brochured price from World Wide Tours & Travel is EXACTLY what you would pay for it in New Zealand directly. In addition to the escorted motorcoach schedule tours, Kirra Tours can also arrange for customized motorcoach tours for small groups of 6 or more as well as a large group. Just call World Wide Tours & Travel on their toll free line (888) 697-0911 for a quote.

Kirra Tours & World Wide Tours are offering two very unique journeys that are LIMITED in departure times and availability that they wanted the readers of KIWIphile FILE to be aware of. First of all is the "Warbirds of Wanaka 2000". This fantastic International Air Show is one of the greatest warbird airshows in the world. It is only offered once every 2 years! In 2000, they are offering a 12-day itinerary starting April 15, 2000 and a 9-day itinerary starting on April 18,2000. They both cover the air show as well as other sightseeing, and are fully escorted. Only the South Island is covered, and pre or post extensions are offered. The land price for the 12-day trip is $NZ1645 and the 9-day trip is $NZ1165. Upgrades to the 3-day Gold Warbirds Pass are also available for $NZ145 as well as optional meal programs. Just think of it.. .a 12- day land tour for approximately $US900 or 9 days for approximately $640! World Wide Tours also offers special reduced air fare rates in conjunction with this package. The tours are already over half filled--so don't delay! CALL WORLD WIDE TODAY!

Another fantastic tour offered by Kirra Tours & World Wide is their 15-day Trains & Special Activities tour. This escorted motorcoach tour covers both North and South Islands with an emphasis on the unusual out of the way places and

things to do. For example it includes 6 train journeys, a cruise on Milford Sound, and Auckland Harbour cruise with picnic lunch. You also visit the Coromandel area with a day enjoying "Kiwi Dundee". It also covers the "must see" sights of New Zealand as well. Departure dates for this journey are Nov. 23, 1999, Feb. 1 & 29, 2000, March 21, 2000 and April 18, 2000. Once again, because it's priced in New Zealand dollars... with today's exchange rates, it's a fantastic bargain. Contact WORLD WIDE TOURS & TRAVEL at 393 W. State Street, Suite B, Eagle, ID 83616 or e-mail them at wwtourtrvl@aol.com You can call Suzi Beacham, the Kirra Tour expert at (208) 938-0911 or toll free (888) 697-0911.

TROUT FISHERMEN OFFERED

"The fish liberated in spring last year grew from 20cm to 50cm in less than nine months, and should be well on the way to 60cm and 3kg," he said.

JUMPING THE NEVIS HIGHWIRE

Bungy for the Brave-Hearted - By Julie Adams

"There's no way I'm ready for this. The Nevis Highwire: 134 metres of bungy terror. But here I am, encased in a steel and glass "pod" that strides four high-tension suspension wires strung across a river gorge. My heart is thumping, blood pounding in my ears; I can barely hear what the crew are telling me as they strap ankle pads in place and arrange the "rubber band".

This thing is crazy—suspended from wires with 360-degree views: clouds scud across the panoramic blue sky. Below us the Nevis River rushes through a gorge where the canyon wails converge into nothing. Breathe, I remind myself, you can do it. I can taste fear in my mouth. Smile and wave to the camera. Here it comes...

If you thought there weren't enough thrills left in the world for you, the pioneers of bungy jumping have come up with a new challenge. A.J.Hackett Bungy, the team that established the world's first commercial bungy jumping operation in 1988, launched the Nevis Highwire Bungy in July this year.

Nevis is the world's first dedicated bungy gondola. With an awe-inspiring 134m (440ft) jump from a suspended jump pod, it takes bungy jumping to new heights.

"Nevis Highwire Bungy is a quantum leap forward—a huge free fall that will feel like a voyage into another dimension," says Henry van Asch, AJ Hackett's managing director.

The jump site is located in the rugged Nevis Canyon, an area steeped in goidmining history. It is 32km from Queenstown and only 10km from the famous home of bungy, the Kawarau Suspension Bridge. AJ Hackett provides four-wheel drive transport to Nevis through a private high country station.

The jump gondola is suspended above the Nevis river from four high tensile cables that stretch 362m (1100ft) across the gorge. Jumpers and spectators are ferried to the jump pod by a cable car. With built-in glass walls and floor panels, up to 20 jumpers, crew and spectators have 360-degree views of the gorge and the jump.

One of the features of Nevis is that the canyon narrows from 350m wide at the gondola to just 30m at the riverbed.

Henry van Asch says this funnelling effect combined with the ground rush from such a great height secures the Nevis Highwire Bungy as the ultimate bungy experience.

AJ Hackett Bungy is the recognised world leader in bungy creativity and technology. As well as sites at Nevis and Kawarau, the company also operates jumps in nearby Skippers Canyon, and The Ledge in central Queenstown, which is hugely popular for night bungy jumping after a day on the slopes.

Aagh! It's such a long way down, 8 seconds falling. What a rush! Finally you feel a reassuring tug and then it's up for the rebound. What goes up must come down, and this time I find my vocal chords. Yehaa!

On the second rebound I remember the instruc- tions, and pull the little ripcord. This releases my feet and turns me the right way up so I'm left in a sitting position. I find myself giggling uncontrollably. I did it! What an amazing feeling. What a buzz.

They winch me back up into the pod. I can't wipe the grin off my face. The crew are grinning back. Did you enjoy that mate?, one of them asks. I sure did. Fantastic, absolutely unreal.

Into the cable car for the return trip. I have to admit it's good to be back on terra firma. I'm really hyped. It's hard to know what to do for the rest of the thy—nothing could possibly compare to jumping off the Nevis. This has to be the ultimate activity for thrill seekers. The Nevis Highwire rates!!

THE PRESIDENT'S ENCHANTED LAND

"This has been a magical trip. I think every person, when he or she is young, dreams of finding some enchanted place of beautiful mountains, breathtaking coastline, clear lakes and amazing wildlife. Most people give up on it because they never get to New Zealand." President Bill Clinton, Christchurch, NZ, 15 September 1999.

With world affairs out of the way, the President and his entourage, including daughter Chelsea and mother-in-law Dorothy Rodham, headed to the South Island for some rest and relaxation. The group flew straight into Queenstown, New Zealand's premiere ski resort and an area renowned for its scenery and outdoor adventure activities.

"Everybody on our plane was just gasping when we saw the landscape, it's just so beautiful," the President said of Queenstown, a small alpine town situated on the shores of Lake Wakatipu and framed by the Remarkables and Coronet Peak mountain ranges.

Asked when he was coming back, the delighted President quipped, "How about next week?"

For Clinton, top of the agenda in Queenstown was a game of golf at Milibrook Resort. Clinton joined Burton Shipley, husband of New Zealand Prime Minister Jenny Shipley, for a game on the internationally acclaimed 18-hole Milibrook course, designed by New Zealand golfing champion Bob Charles.

Strict security controls were in force at all times, but a relaxed Clinton managed to grab dinner at one of Queenstown's top restaurants and an early morning game of golf, before heading for Christchurch. He gave a speech at the International Antarctic Centre and attended a farewell gala dinner at the Wigram Air Force Museum before leaving.

While the impact of Hurricane Floyd on the United States' southern coastline hastened the President's departure, he thanked New Zealand for "five absolutely glorious days in one of the most beautiful places on Earth".

When you make inquiries about and/or reservations for anything in New Zealand, if you saw it here please be sure to mention that you saw it in the KIWIphile FILE!! Thank you.

THE WAYFARERS

"Walk Down Under: A Walk on the Wild Side," Jan. 14-26 or Feb. 4-16, 2000.

Starting in the wine country, the itinerary includes a 2-day luxury cruise on Marlborough Sound to Christchurch and walks along trails through national parks, on coastal paths and up the face of Mt. Cook.

In Queenstown and Wanaka, noted for the surrounding lakes and mountains, there are opportunities for bungy jumping and hang gliding.

Groups of 12-16 people, and walks of eight to 10 miles a day.

Land cost $3,200; single supplement is $675.

The Wayfarers, 172 Bellevue Ave., Newport, RI 02840; phone 800/249-4620 or 401/849-5087, or fax 401-/849-5878.

THE VICTORIA CROSS — Stephen Mangum

At the urging of Prince Albert and other leading British citizens, Queen Victoria signed an order in 1856 which created the Victoria Cross. The V.C. is the highest award for conspicuous gallantry in combat for British and Commonwealth military members.

The initial presentation took place before a crowd of over 100,000 in Hyde Park, London, on June 26, 1857. On that date Queen Victoria appeared dressed in a field marshal's uniform and granted the initial sixty-two awards to veterans of the Crimean War.

Since then a total of over 1300 have been awarded, including approximately 100 to Australians and New Zealanders.

The original orders required that the winner have survived the act for which the V.C. had been awarded. That injustice was corrected by King Edward VII in 1906 after he read a petition from the widow of a soldier eventually granted the award for heroism in the Boer War.

The initial orders permitted the granting of the V.C. for non-combat heroism and several were granted.

This was later amended to narrow the issuance to combat circumstances only. Several have also been granted to non-Commonwealth members.

The Victoria Crosses are made from gun metal taken from Russian artillery pieces captured during the Crimean War. They have all been made by Hancocks and Company Ltd., London, since 1857.

Following are a brief mention of four of the extraordinary winners from both sides of the Tasman Sea.

First, Australia's most legendary winner, Albert Jacka. Three of New Zealand's best known recipients are Charles Upham, Jack Hinton, and Moana-Nui-A-Kiw Ngarimu.

Albert Jacka was born in Victoria, Australia in 1893 and enlisted in the Australian Imperial Force (Army) in 1914 for service in the Great War. He was awarded the V.C. for his great courage in combat at Gallipoli on May 19, 1915. He was presented with his first V.C. by King George V on September 29, 1916.

Jacka was later promoted to Lieutenant, then Captain in 1917. At Pezieres, France, he demonstrated extraordinary courage again by leading a counterattack against a much larger enemy force, despite being wounded three times. He received the Military Cross for this action. Aussie historian C.E.W. Bean wrote that Jacka's counterattack "stands as the most dramatic and effective act of individual audacity in the history of the AIF."

On April 8, 1917 he received a bar to the Victoria Cross for saving the lives of many Australians by attacking the Germans alone while on a reconnaissance mission. Many military historians felt he earned at least three V.C.'s for these and other actions. Bean again wrote "Everyone who knows the facts knows that Jacks earned the V.C. three times.

Jacka was badly injured in 1918 on the

Western Front and returned home in September 1919. He married, entered business and was a councilman and mayor in St. Kilda, a suburb of Melbourne. Jacka always showed great compassion for the poor and unemployed in his town and promoted greater assistance for the needy.

Eventually his war wounds and business and political pressures broke down his health and he died in 1932. Eight other Victoria Cross winners served as pallbearers at his funeral. A house was purchased for his widow Veronica by public donations. Many streets and memorials are named for him throughout Australia.

Charles Upham was born in Christchurch in

1908 and worked in various professions until World

War II. He enlisted for service and was immediately

recognized as a leader. Upham is regarded as New

Zealand's top soldier in World War II. He is the only

Kiwi combatant to win the Victoria Cross twice.

His initial V.C. was awarded for his courageous actions during the battle for Maleme on the island of Crete. Later, in the Western Desert, he was recognized again for daring attacks on German and Italian strong points. Despite serious injuries, he rejoined his company and fought on until sustaining a major leg injury. He later spent several years as a German prisoner.

Charles Upham returned home after the war to a peaceful life in New Zealand and passed away in

1995.

Jack Hinton was born in Colac Bay, Southland in 1909. He had a tough upbringing in a variety of jobs, including serving on a whaling ship to Antarctica at the age of 12.

Like Upham, he enlisted in the South Island's 20th Battalion under the highly regarded Col. Howard Kippenberger. Jack quickly became a Sergeant and was recognized for his natural leadership qualities.

While fighting a rearguard action against the German advance in Kalamata, Greece, Hinton launched a courageous counterattack against overwhelming odds. He was seriously wounded and later spent several years in various German POW camps. He sustained several brutal beatings for making a number of attempts to escape.

Sgt. Hinton was notified of the award while in a German prison hospital in Greece.

Jack Hinton and Charles Upham were formally invested by King George VI on May 11, 1945 at Buckingham Palace, following their release from captivity.

After returning home, Hinton spent many years managing various hotels throughout New Zealand and served as a steward at several racing and trotting clubs.

Lieutenant Moana-Nui-a-Kiwa Ngarimu was the first Maori soldier to win the Victoria Cross.

He was born at Kokai Pa on the east coast of the North Island in 1918 and grew up working as a shepherd on his father's farm.

Lt. Ngarimu and his platoon attacked and captured a hill at Tebaga Gap in Tunisia, wresting control from the Germans who had been firing at will on other New Zealanders. Ngarimu and his men held the position against a furious series of enemy counter-attacks. He personally led the attack and, with his platoon, held the position, during which he was mortally wounded.

Governor General Sir Cyril Newell presented the Victoria Cross to his parents at Ruatoria on October 6, 1943.

Three resources were used for this article:

"They Dared Mightily" by Lionel Wigmore in collaboration with Bruce Harding See. ed. revised and condensed by Jeff Williams and Anthony Stauton. Pub, by Australia War Memorial, Canberra, Australia, 1986.

"Tribe of the War God—Ngati Tumatauenga" by Major Richard Taylor. Pub, by Heritage New Zealand, 1996.

"Jack Hinton, V.C." by Gabrielle McDonald. Pub, by David Ling PubI. Ltd, Auckland NZ 1997.

The two quotes about Albert Jacka are from "They Dared Mightily", pages 73-74.

All three are excellent, particularly "They Dared Mightily" which is a stunning retelling of each and every Australia Victoria Cross winner's individual heroism,

NIFTY, OVER FIFTY TOUR -

March 15-March 31, 2000 (Led by Jan Coyle)

This year our New Zealand tour is limited to the South Island but add-ons through the North Island and to the Bay of Islands can be arranged using either a self drive rental car or a combination of public buses and trains.

We commence the tour with two nights in Queenstown where we will join a local 50+ hiking club on one of their favorite walks in the surrounding hills. As always, the walk can be lengthened or shortened to suit. Traveling to Milford Sound we will explore some of the exceptionally scenic spots en route through Fiordland National Park, a World Heritage Park.

An overnight cruise on Milford Sound enables us to enjoy the spectacular beauty of this region without the tourist crowds, and a night at the peaceful lakeside village of Te Anau allows us time to walk on the famous lower Kepler Track and to visit the Te Anau Glowworm Caves.

We travel to the lakeside village of Wanaka for two nights and a walk with a local club, before crossing the Southern Alps at H.aast Pass to the West Coast town of Franz Josef. Here we explore glaciers and the Westland Rainforest. Then the scenic Tranz Alpine Express train will take us back across the Alps at Arthur's Pass for two nights in the lovely city of Christchurch where we have a walk with a local club followed by lunch in one of the members' homes.

Next its up the east coast for a night at Kaikoura and your choice of whale watching or swimming with dolphins before we head to Abel Tasman National Park. Here we have the option of taking the guided walk for our three days or traveling by launch to our comfortable overnight lodges. Sea kayaking is one of the many delights this tranquil and beautiful region offers.

Since we have limited our tour to the South Island only, travel distances have been kept to a minimum, while allowing us the opportunity to enjoy the outstanding and varied scenery and activities en route without rushing or spending too much time in travel. There is ample free time to relax or explore on your own.

Contact PACIFIC PATHWAYS, 1919 Chula Vista Drive, Belmont, CA 94002. Ph (650) 595-2090. Fax (650) 591 7721. E-mail:Kiwipac@aol.com

Website: members.aol.com/kiwipac/kiwipactours.html

EXTREME GREEN RAFTING

Extreme Green Rafting was established in 1994 with one primary objective—to achieve the highest levels of safety and service in the New Zealand rafting industry—to be the best.

The founders of Extreme Green have a firm belief that a commitment to safety will provide the platform to maintain a focus on the enjoyment and personal challenge aspects of white water rafting.

As guides themselves, and by keeping an active role in the trips that go out, they can monitor the ever changing situations and conditions that rafting presents. Big is not always best.

Extreme Green concentrate on providing attention to each customer, from the time they embark on the bus, through to the detailed river briefing before getting on the water and culminating with an unforgettable trip.

You can get their interesting brochure by contacting: EXTREME GREEN RAFTING, P0 Box 1305,

Queenstown, NZ. Phone 64 3 442 8517—fax 64 3 442 8510, or email extremeg@queenstown.co.nz

EVENTS CALENDAR - NEW ZEALAND

Fiordland's Big Bang Millenium Party -

31/12/99 — 1/1/00

An evening of family entertainment will commence at 6pm in Lions Park, Te Anau.

Entertainment will include family fun such as a magician with a full magical show, Mr & Mrs Sideways (jugglers), animal balloon twister, face painting and family fun with a live band (Fixing a Hole) until 9 pm.

At 9pm a helicopter will drop ten thousand of pre sold and numbered Ping-Pong balls onto Lions Park. The ball that lands on the marked spot will give the winner a trip to Surfer's Paradise. This is a lottery raffle with live broadcast TVNZ Channel 1. Tickets are available on sale at leading outlet retailer stores in Te Anau. Tickets can be purchased by email fpai@teanau.co.nz

At 9pm the international band "Fiddler on the Hoof' will play until countdown for the New Year begins.

A small fireworks display will also happen at 12pm in Lions Park, after which a piper will pipe the crowd across the road to the shores of Lake Te Anau for a Fireworks Spectacular on Lake Te Anau.

Tuatapere Wild Challenge — Southland 8/1/00

This event based from Tuatapere is an endurance multi-sports experience—held in Southern Fiordland, 100 kilometres for 100 competitors. Disciplines of kayaking, nmning and mountain biking on a course which starts at Teal Bay, Lake Hauroko, competitors paddle 36ks of fast hydroslide and washing machine bowl turbulence from outlet to ocean; change their kayaks for running shoes and run around the South Coast Track travelling over former logging tramlines, through bush clad country and a mixture of mud and streams, traverse 4 wooden viaducts, through historic Port Craig onto Bluecliffs Beach where another transition is called for: running shoes to mountain bikes. The challenge of metal and forest roads, over bridges constructed from sawn logs, a tarseal hill to climb and exciting down-hill racing where a sudden corner or two will spice the ride, then sedately but fast back to Tuatapere and the Waiau college fmish line. A banquet and prizegiving function ends a day laced with many ingredients to make Tuatapere a never-to-be- forgotten experience.

This event is being promoted to be the first established endurance multi-sports in the world for the New Millennium.

Aotearoa Traditional Maori Performing Arts Festival, Waikato — 3/2/00-6/2/00

This 3-day festival is a showcase for Maori culture and art, with the best groups from throughout New Zealand performing the traditional haka, waiata, pol, mau, rakau and wero. (Dates to be confirmed)

Hawera Dairy Festival - Taranaki 19/2/00 - 20/2/00

The Dairy Festival has been running for several years and is growing in popularity each year. Held in the Hawera township and at Dairyland, the festival offers a range of fun activities and events associated with the dairy industry. The festival begins with a dairy day and market day involving gumboot throwing and bull roaring competitions. There is also a quiz night to test your dairy knowledge. On the final day a country fair is held with a relaxed picnic style day with 3- legged races and egg & spoon races.

Moonshiner's Whisky and Food Festival — 27/2/00

Held at Gore A&P Showgrounds, Gore. The only event of its kind in NZ offering whisky, wine, food and great entertainment—a reai "taste of Southland". The Gore A&P Showgrounds take on a festive air when residents and visitors come together to enjoy the entertainment, address the haggis, and of course enjoy a "wee dram or two".

Southland Celtic Festival — 17/3/00-19/3/00

Held at various locations around Invercargill.

A truly international event, the inaugural annual Southland Celtic Festival creates the opportunity to showcase Southland culture. The event features a Stone Symposium, Art Exhibition, Caledonian Games Competition, Piping, Drumming and Dancing demonstrations; a variety of local, national and international acts, markets, workshops and children's entertainment. There will be nighttime entertainment as well.

For more information on these events please check with the NZ Tourism Board: Ph. 310-395-7480 or 800-388-5494. Website: http://www.purenz.com

NEW ZEALAND POST - Charles Eggen

NZ Post is issuing some 1 January 2000 items about which you can find information at

http://www.nzstamps.co.nz/nzstamps/recent/2OOO_dawn.htm

The stamps and first day covers can be ordered direct from NZ Post via their website. If preferred these items can also be ordered later from NZ stamp dealers, but they will cost a bit more from them (they must add a profit to the cost, which is the same as you or I pay via the NZ Post website).

I will let the information posted speak for itself. The limited Pitt Island covers will definitely go up in value since there are to be only 20,000 available (that's 20,000 covers with the Pitt postmark).

If someone is interested and misses out on the first go around—contact a NZ stamp dealer. Many now have websites and/or e-mail addresses. All are listed within the LINKS section of my website at:

http://www.teleport.com/~cne/index.html

MILLENNIUM WALL, GISBORNE, NZ

Musician/composer John Tesh has announced he will perform his "Heart of the Sunrise" against the backdrop of The Millennium Wall in Gisborne, New Zealand, the city of the first light of the first day of the 21st century. The New Year's Eve performance will be telecast live on QVC.

The Millennium Wall is a planned, kilometer- long granite permanent tribute to the next 1000 years being built along the coastline in Gisborne, NZ. The light that welcomes the first day of the new century will lit the easternmost city on New Zealand's North Island. The wall is designed with space for a million names to be laser-etched into granite tiles. QVC will donate $1.00 for each name space sold by QVC to children's charities, which includes 75 cents to Save the Children.

Artist Peter Max is currently creating the design for a multi-color, multi-story backdrop at Tesh's performance site, and will donate five signed limited- edition prints to Save the Children for future fund- raising activities.

"The new light which will dawn is maximum inspiration", Max said. "Capturing the essence of the first sun of the new millennium and conveying the peace and love which shines from its rays are the bright messages we can offer tomorrow's children."

Globally, the Millennium Wall is the only one of its kind, created by David Wolinsky and Charles Gayton, developed by Bob Marty and presented by Dave Oliphant. Its wave-like design was created by New Zealand architect/sculptor Don Moodie to mirror the never-ending tidal flow of the. South Pacific Ocean it is built beside.

(Editor: I think having your own or a loved one's name immortalized in New Zealand is a lovely way to give honor for countless years to come. I'm planning to buy a tile, with a heart symbol, to be placed in memory of my late husband John who loved New Zealand as much as I do. I'll probably add my own name as well. Then on my next visit to NZ I'll look for our names. As I understand it, that will cost $30. So I'll be checking out QVC on New Year's Eve. I don't own stock in QVC—I just like this idea).

READERS - PLEASE SEND IN YOUR STORIES AND LETTERS FOR THE NEXT ISSUE OF K.F.

THANKS.

PBS ON NEW YEAR'S EVE - Charles Eggen

I recently heard that PBS is going to broadcast live TV from various locations around the world during the year 2000 changeover. I would therefore assume that the first location will be somewhere in New Zealand. I would also assume that this will be coordinated from the PBS studios in Washington DC. New Zealand will see 2000 at 5am PST on 31 December. That would be 2am EST, so I would expect that these series of broadcasts, over a 24 hour period, would begin an hour or two before that time. I have copied below a short comment about this, from the PBS website:

"The highlight of the month is PBS' 27-hour MILLENNIUM DAY BROADCAST, Friday, December 31, 1999 through Saturday, Jan. 1, 2000. PBS and 45 international broadcast partners present a remarkable television event that records and reports on the world's millennium bash, including gala performances and riveting storytelling in exotic locations."

2000 CELEBRATIONS, LIVE VIDEO

Multiple web cams covering the Gisborne City area and events with live video streaming. World travel prizes to holiday in NZ and attend the celebrations in Gisborne, Tauranga and Queenstown.

Leading up to the major 14 hour long event starting at 10 pm on New Year's Eve, the viewer can watch live action in downtown Gisborne and play pro- motional videos of the planned events for the celebrations.

Log on and be there to enjoy the cyberparty in the world's first city to see the dawn of the new millennium.

This is a unique internet television broadcast event where the viewer gets to select their own program content from a wide range of camera locations.

www.2000-live.com

RICHARD CROFT, VOICE OF A KIWI

New Zealander Richard Croft was one of the early regular contributors to the KIWIphile FILE. His stories appeared under the title "Voice of a Kiwi." I loved his beautiful prose, and I'm sure many of you did as well.

Unfortunately Richard left this life just recently. He was a dear, gentle friend to me and to my family, and he befriended many of our friends during the visits he and his wife Betty made to our home. His death is a great loss.

Richard had a pure and sensitive heart, a penetrating mind, and humorous wisdom. He was a great conversationalist, a man who could never resist helping someone in need, who would never hesitate to welcome wandering travelers into his home for a meal or a night's stay.

He was a fascinating combination of idealist and realist. For many years he gave countless hours to trying to improve the government of his country.

He was a prime example of what I call "Kiwi sophisticated innocence." By Betty's definition, Richard "fit into the environment."

I feel that perhaps Richard had finished his work here and was called to another place of need. Our love goes with him.

Here is what Richard wrote about Mount Cook in the September 1992 issue of KIWIphile FILE:

"On previous visits to the park I had only once gained a full sight of the mountain. It was at the end of a 3-day vacation. I had had similar experiences with the Matterhorn and the Jungfrau in Switzerland, and I was in despair. A low, damp mist hung near the ground while windborne swirling clouds raced across the range. Then without warning the clouds began to lift upwards, and there at the end of the valley like a richly- robed primadonna making a triumphant stage entrance, stood Mount Cook, Aorangi "the cloud piercer" to the native Maori. Clothed in gleaming white snow and streaked by a few shafts of late afternoon sunlight, it was breathtaking and unforgettable. Within half an hour the dark clouds descended again suddenly and the air chilled. The stage was bare; the performance was over."