DECEMBER 2002

Volume XV, No. 2

DECEMBER 2002

JOHNNY-COME-LATELY LAND

New Zealand as we know it is a geological infant. It rose out of the sea in something like its current shape only about five million years ago. Land was forced up by a buckling of the earth's crust that started about twenty million years before, and continues today. All the while, weathering has added its own shaping influences.

Over millions of years, cycles of upthrust and wearing-down had produced many lands, which came and went, different in shape and form from the New Zealand we know today. Nor did they appear in the same part of the ocean New Zealand now occupies:

New Zealand's basement rocks were laid down at an edge of the ancient supercontinent that scientists have called Gondwanaland. Material eroded from the far older lands of Australia and Antarctica collected in a submarine trough and formed sedimentary rocks. When squeezed by movements in the earth's crust, they pushed out of the ocean as new lands.

New Zealand's oldest ancestral land is in the South Island region where pliable sedimentary rocks were thrust up in rippling folds. Later, made hard and brittle by submarine pressure and heat, they became the broken, tilted mountain blocks characteristic of more recent versions of the country. Meanwhile, near the end of the disintegration of Gondwanaland, the New Zealand area rafted away from its neighbours. Considering the fluctuations of land and sea levels that followed, it is remarkable that any of its ancient inheritance of plants and animals survived.

(From Reader's Digest GUIDE TO NEW ZEALAND, text by Maurice Shadbolt)

NZ INTERNET USE LEADS THE WORLD -

from New Zealand Herald Online

New Zealanders are leading the world in internet use, a recent international survey shows.

The G02002 survey of 31 countries found 71 per cent of New Zealanders had used the internet in the past month.

That was the highest percentage of the countries surveyed, which included Australia, Britain and the United States.

State Services Minister Trevor Mallard said the survey showed just how internet "savvy we are."

Global market research company Taylor Nelson Sofres last month surveyed 1000 New Zealanders for the study.

The survey found 40 per cent of New Zealanders had used e-government services in the previous 12 months, compared with the global average of 30 per cent.

Government services used included accessing statistical or tax information, or registering a company on-line.

WILD THYMES IN THE GARDEN

"There is no love more sincere than the love of food."

The dream of a lifestyle business centered around their large herb garden has finally become a reality for Irish and Ian Budd. Irish and Ian, with the help of their five children, established Bay Tree Gardens in 1987. Address is 114 Plantation Road. TeKouwhata, south of Auckland, north of Hamilton.

They have gone on to achieve success in Australia and New York as well as throughout New Zealand. A high point in this success was when Trish was awarded the ultimate professional women's business accolade in 1995—the "New Zealand Woman in Business" award.

Their unique garden provides the inspiration and ingredients for exquisitely packaged gifts as well as a showcase for an increasing number of herbs and old roses.

Trish and Ian are now marrying their romantic vision of twenty years, and their business reality of

ten, with the opening of the garden and hundred-year- old cottage to the public.

The garden: canopied by old-fashioned roses and guarded by lavender hedges, interspersed with topiaried Bay Trees—the garden namesake.

Each part of the herbal garden of medicinal, fragrant and culinary themes comes together to com- plete the overall scene of romantic tranquility. This colourful and vibrant informal garden is one for all seasons although it is at its peak from spring until early summer. At that time the garden is a mass of colour and fragrance.

The beauty of the gardens lies in the fact that they are unfussy with a wonderful character as befits their major component—the vast array of herbs and their many varieties.

The food: just a taste—silver stands laden with chocolate dipped rose petals; salads created from a variety of coloured basil, rocket, fancy lettuce and edible flowers; home-made crusty breads; wedges of rose geranium cake; fresh pastry tarts. This is to name a few of the unique and delicious offerings available at Bay Tree Gardens.

An extensive range of condiments and gifts

await you after your visit to the garden.

(Herb Haven, 114 Plantation Rd., TeKouwhata, Ph: 07 826 3031

Fax: 07 826 3035)

NATIONAL PARK BOON FOR SMALLEST ISLAND

— Unspoiled ecosystems supporting lush forests and native birds roaming free of pesky predators

Sound too good to be true? Not so for visitors to New Zealand's newest national Park, Rakiura.

Created in March 2002, Rakiura covers around 157,000ha or 85% of New Zealand's most southerly land mass, Stewart Island and encompasses a network of former nature and scenic reserves and stewardship areas (the land excluded from the National Park includes Whenua Hou or Codfish Island, all Maori land, freehold land and the island's foreshore).

Preserving the southern ecosystem is obviously a win for New Zealand's long-term environmental strategy. But the most southerly of New Zealand's 14 National Parks will also have major spin-offs for the region's tourism industry.

One Stewart Island tourist operator keen to see how the park develops over the summer season is Ulva Amos, who runs guided walking tours of Ulva Island (yes, she was named after the island!) This sixth-generation Stewart Islander, who can trace her family back to the island's earliest tribes, says:

"And why wouldn't visitors come?" reasons UIva. "How often do travellers get the opportunity to walk through unmodified primeval forests and know that this land will be protected against future desecration for future generations to enjoy?"

RATION PLAN FOR THE GREAT OUTDOORS (INL Newspapers)

The Kiwi tradition of free access to the outdoors may be over as more overseas visitors clog up our national parks, a new report says.

Growing numbers of tourists clamouring to tackle New Zealand's great walks are placing a strain on some sites, says a report by Parliament's local government and environment select committee presented recently to the Government.

The Conservation Department is now considering rationing access to popular sites because of the impact of tourists, the report says.

At-risk areas include the Heaphy Track, kayaking the Whanganui River, and the Mt Tongariro crossing, the department's recreation spokesman John Ombler said.

Management options for high-use sites include:

Booking systems to limit visitor numbers.

Sending people in the same direction to reduce the perception of crowding (Milford Track) or staggered start times (Mt Tongariro).

Improving sewerage systems to cope with more visitors.

Hardening track surfaces to cope with more visitors.

This is the first year people need to book campsites and huts on the Abel Tasman coastal walk. The move follows booking systems for the Milford, Routeburn and Kepler tracks and the walk round Lake Waikaremoana.

The report says the department will try to absorb the impact. of more visitors. It has 1000 back- country huts, 12,550 kilometres of walking tracks, 14,400 visitor structures and spends $16,7 million a year managing its assets.

In the past 10 years, visitors to Abel Tasman National Park had doubled and the number had risen from 10,000 to 65,000 at Mt Tongariro.

Federated Mountain Clubs president John Wilson said the department's naming of the Travers Sabine Circuit in Nelson Lakes National Park and the Rees Dart Track at the head of Lake Wakatipu would only add these areas to the high-pressure list.

"It has the effect of pushing New Zealanders further into lesser-known tracks. It's a limiting of opportunities."

Upgrading overloaded facilities had the reverse effect of attracting still more visitors, he said.

"You get a vicious circle and it becomes a bit of a theme park. You are removing your interaction with nature."

Overseas visitors should pay more than New Zealanders for outdoor recreation facilities to limit their use, Mr. Wilson said. The tourism industry needed to manage visitor numbers to avoid turning Kiwis away.

Tourism New Zealand spokeswoman Cas Carter said her agency wanted to encourage visitors to spread more thinly throughout New Zealand to reduce pressure on hotspots.

The priority was big-spending tourists and Tourism New Zealand advertised in overseas media targeting that market.

The select committee recommended that the Government should accept Conservation Department funding needs of $267,537 million for 2002/2003.

NEW ZEALAND FAUNA - from KIWINEWS

The fauna of New Zealand is characterised by the great number of endemic species and the relatively limited representation of the animal kingdom. This is due to the 80 million years of isolation of New Zealand since the breakup of the supercontinent of Gondwanaland. Early life-forms from the Jurassic era developed in the country in the absence of external influences, until the arrival of humans.

Early settlers hunted the giant bird species by burning the native forests and flushing them out. Subsequently, European settlers cut great swathes of forest to sow into grassland for pasture. The destruction of native forest habitats has led to the extinction of 46 percent of native land-bird species. Many of these birds are crucial to the dissemination of seeds which in turn promotes the regeneration of forests. Native New Zealand's emergence into the modern world has been accompanied by wholesale eradication of its native biota.

When the first humans arrived in New Zealand, no more than 1500 years ago, birdsong and surf would have been the first things they heard as they approached the forested islands. The land was almost exclusively populated by birds. Even today, a similar experience can be had when approaching Little Barrier Island, a wildlife sanctuary administered by the Department of Conservation.

In addition to birds, there were three small bat species (the only terrestrial mammals), geckos, skinks, three species of frogs, and the tuatara—an iguana-like animal directly descended from the dinosaurs. Freshwater fish were relatively rare, comprising about thirty species, including eels, which became a valuable source of food for Maori.

WONDERFUL WAIHEKE - from NEXT

Sparkling blue waters, golden-sand beaches and pohutukawa-lined cliffs are the backdrop to 15 of New Zealand's most romantic vineyards. Their serried ranks of vines climb the hills on Auckland's Waiheke Island and there will be more to come.

Waiheke continues to attract the so-called lifestyle winemaker. Many have around two to five hectares of vines, barely enough to make a viable living. But they all have a passion for wine—usually red.

Despite the small size of most vineyards, some seriously large plantings are at last being undertaken and these could finally make some Waiheke wines more available and affordable.

At the northeastern end of the island lies Stony Batter Estate, with 24 hectares of grapes planted over the last five years. Owned by millionaire John Spencer, the vineyards here should, when fully planted, total around 70 hectares and could yield up to 25,000 cases of wine a year. This will make Stony Batter Waiheke's biggest producer, by far. As yet, only a sauvignon blanc has been released but over the next few years this will be a label to watch.

Also harvesting a first crop this year is Cable Bay Vineyards. Chardonnay and merlot are the main varieties and the vintage should produce around 4000 cases, aiming for an eventual ouput of 10,000.

Waiheke Island wines are not cheap and the best place to try them is at one of the island's many great places to stay and eat. I recommend Mudbrick Vineyard and Restaurant, which is open all year. For the ultimate dining experience, Te Whau Vineyard offers top-class food and a wine list with over 500 wines. It's open from Labour weekend until Easter. The café and vineyard at Stonyridge are open for weekend lunches and private functions.

Wine always tastes best in the place it was made so why not stay at a vineyard? Accommodation is available at Kennedy Point Vineyard, Surfdale, and

in Onetangi you can stay at Miro Vineyard, Onetangi Road Vineyard and the Waiheke Brewery.

BEST Buys: Banrock Station Ball Island Shiraz 2000; Main Divide Riesling 2001; Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2000; Dry River Craighall Riesling 2001; and Babich Pinot Gris 2001.

RUTHERFORD AND THE SPLIT ATOM - from No. 8 Wire, the Best of Kiwi Ingenuity

In about 400 BC, the Greeks conjectured that the world was made up of tiny particles, invisible to the eye. Different combinations of these particles gave rise to the vastly different materials that we see around us in the world. They called these particles atoms—the Greek word for "indivisible". While other variations of this idea of the universe came and went in the following 2000 years, that basic view stuck until about 1850, when scientists discovered that the atom could come with differing electrical charges (positive or negative), and that these charges could change. It was then conjectured that the atom must contain other, smaller particles, but no one had a firm idea on how this all hung together.

Meanwhile, at least for the first 2000-odd years of this, Kiwi Ernest Rutherford wasn't around and so couldn't set them straight. But then he was born, in Nelson (NZ) in 1871, and the world would never look the same again.

Ernest was, by all accounts, a very clever child, breezing through school, where he seems to have had the quintessential Kiwi education—head boy and in the first XV. He went on to Canterbury College, completing an undergraduate degree and an honours year, and publishing a couple of scientific papers, which got him noticed overseas. He moved to England in 1895 and began as a research student at the distinguished Cavendish college in Cambridge—the first ever "foreigner" to be honoured in such a way, and possibly the first example of Kiwis having to leave New Zealand to continue their career.

Rutherford did extremely well in this role, contributing a lot to the work at the laboratory, and gaining an invitation to work at McGill University in Canada, which he took up eagerly. It was at McGill University that he made his first major discovery in science that atoms can spontaneously "transmute" into other elements. In layperson's terms, he showed that under certain circumstances some elements can turn into others. It was this work for which he won his Nobel Prize in

1908—ironically for Rutherford, the prize was for chemistry. not physics, yet he described himself as a physicist first and foremost.

Returning to England in 1907 he worked first at Manchester University, then back at the Cavendish Laboratory, where he made his next significant breakthrough.

Rutherford devised a plan to derive the internal structure of the atom. It went a bit like this (and by all means, do try this at home... of course you'll need an alpha particle accelerator). Get a piece of gold foil. Beat it as thin as you can make it, almost only a few atoms thick. Now grab your alpha particle generator and point it at the gold foil. (An "alpha" particle is a large, heavy collection of stuff that should have no problem punching through a little old sheet of gold foil.)

Start firing the alpha particles. Expected result: the particles should smash straight through the foil to the other side. Actual result: they do... mostly. But every now and then one bounces back. Now this was completely unexpected for Rutherford, who likened it to "firing a cannon ball at a sheet of tissue paper and having it bounce back at you.".

Ernie derived from this result that the atom was mostly just empty space, with something very small and very dense in the middle. Most of the alpha particles pass through the empty space, but every now and then one of them smacks into the bit in the middle—the "nucleus"—and is deflected right back. Rutherford had shown that the atom was made up of smaller "things" arranged like a solar system—small electrons orbiting a small nucleus. He had, theor- etically at least, "split" the atom.

But not content to finish there, Rutherford went on to actually split the atom; he bombarded nitrogen with alpha particles and witnessed them split into hydrogen. This experiment was Rutherford's third great achievement, and of course seeded the idea of nuclear fission that others would go on to develop into a great boon for humankind, or a great threat to our survival, depending on how you look on it. For Rutherford, it was just good science.

Rutherford's greatest achievement, however, may have been as a teacher and mentor to many of the next generation of eminent scientists—people like Chadwick, Bohr, Oppenheimer and Geiger all learnt their craft from the big Kiwi with the big voice.

Rutherford in his lifetime was awarded the Nobel Prize, 21 honorary degrees and countless awards, and was also named "Baron of Nelson." The story goes that as Rutherford lay on his deathbed in 1937, at age 66, he called for his wife to make a

donation of 100 pounds to Nelson College, his alma mater. Today Rutherford's donation is honoured, with his face adorning our $100 note.

WIRED BRAS WILL BE HARD TO UPLIFT -
INL Newspapers

Cardrona farmer John Lee plans to put 400 bras on his fence after thieves left him braless last month.

Mr. Lee hit international headlines after pranksters hung bras on his farm fence one night between Christmas and New Year.

He liked the idea and now encourages women to hang their bras on his fence.

However, last February thieves left him virtually braless. Women rallied around to support the farmer by proudly displaying their bras on his fence. But last month he was cleaned out of bras again.

Mr. Lee said since the second bra cleanout women from all over the world had posted him their underwear.

A parcel containing bras would arrive with just a first name on it and no address, he said.

His bra fence had become a media circus with interest from all over the world, he said. He had counted 90 calls from media so far, including eight with the BBC and a national television segment in Germany.

To his amusement recently a carload of women stripped off their bras in broad daylight and placed them on the fence.

He plans to put the bras back on the fence today—and keep them there.

"By God they are going to have to work hard to get these bras off," Mr. Lee said.

A team of people would wire the bras to the fence.

The bra tying exercise was creating interest with the local residents who were planning to have, a barbecue and enjoy the day, watching people tie bras to his fence, Mr. Lee said.

Some kids had sent bras on the condition Mr. Lee gave money to Cure Kids. Mr. Lee said he would donate $2000 to Cure Kids today.

Meanwhile in Queenstown, not wanting to be pipped by their Wanaka neighbour, someone started hanging ski boots off a tree on the green at the corner of Stanley and Shotover Streets.

The ski boots have since disappeared.

NZ SITTING PRETTY IN AN UNCERTAIN WORLD - Waikato Times

No one likes to be called boring—but it's a perfect description for a healthy economy.

Words like boring and stable sum up the outlook for the New Zealand economy and investment over the next six to 12 months. It promises stability in borrowing and lending rates, lowish inflation, steady business and consumer confidence, no nasty shocks on the corporate front and continued economic growth.

If we can maintain this happy state of affairs over the coming year (by which time hopefully the rest of the world will have convincingly picked itself up) New Zealand should be remarkably well placed for the rest of the decade.

Being able to describe our economy as reasonably predictable sets us apart from just about everywhere else in the world, where people face job uncertainties as economies shrink and there are major investment worries and concerns over corporate fraud and earnings.

The major worry for the economy is the bellicose words from the US and Britain that suggest an attack on Iraq is on the cards. This would have far reaching consequences in the Middle East, leading to trade and related ramifications for this country.

Statistics show New Zealand is not without problems. Demand for some exports is slowing. Industrial problems on the US West Coast are another worry.

On a positive note the kiwi dollar has been remarkably steady at around the US47c mark, and has not shot through to the US55-60c mark predicted just months ago by some economists. Most exporters want it to stay below US50c. The deteriorating trade balance should keep it in check.

The export scene, appears robust. The outlook for lamb and wool looks strong. only handicapped by supply shortages. Prospects remain, promising for beef and horticulture, and there are signs of a pickup in dairying. Venison is a black spot.

Negatives include worrying signs of drought and the harsh, prolonged winter that will cut production this season. Forestry offers a mixed bag— good for timber, less so for wood pulp and logs. Manufacturers remain generally confident, in part because the key Australian market, like ours, seems to be escaping the worst of the global downturn.

Forecasts of continuing growth in tourism numbers are fuelling optimism. It is expected New Zealand will have had 2 million visitors in the year to

December, twice the number recorded in April 1992. The America's Cup promises to be a hefty earner of overseas funds and showcase for this country's tourism—providing the Auckland winds subside.

Looking further ahead, there is the usual disagreement among economists about where interest rates are headed. Some reckon Alan Bollard (the new Reserve Bank Governor) will have to raise rates next year; others say they should drop.

Surprisingly little attention is being paid to the rapidly improving employment situation. Skills shortages are seeing people in their 40s and 50s re-employed: a highly positive social development. Employment levels have been rising since mid-1998.

The surprisingly strong rise in GDP to 3.5 per cent in the June year went largely unremarked. Fortunately it didn't spark a response from the Reserve Bank which for years has operated a modelthat says New Zealand lacks the capacity to grow at more than 3 per cent a year. This needs to be axed.

These are highly encouraging signs for the economy—and for investors.

Okay, so on most indicators New Zealand looks dull, boring and predictable. Given the highly uncertain global environment, this is something to boast about. Long may it continue!

NEW ZEALAND POST—LORD OF THE RINGS

Considered by millions throughout the world to be the greatest epic adventure ever told, J.R.R. Tolkien's The Lord of the Rings trilogy chronicles the epic struggle between good and evil for possession of the infamous One Ring. In the hands of its creator, the Dark Lord Sauron, it will give him power to enslave the world.

Directed by Peter Jackson, The Lord of the Rings trilogy represents an unprecedented under-taking—three films made simultaneously over a year and a half of production.

For the discerning enthusiast, New Zealand Post has produced "The Ultimate Collection". A stylishly presented folder of all the available products in the official The Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers stamp issue.

For full information please telephone, fax or email New Zealand Post directly: New Zealand Post, Private Bag 3001, Wanganui, NZ. Tel. 64 6 349 1234. Fax 64 6 345 7120.
Email: collectables@nzpost.co.nz
Website: http://www.stamps.co.nz

AVIATION WRITER PRAISES

AIR NZ ENGINEERS - XtraMSM Travel

At least one aviation writer believes Boeing will give Air New Zealand a clean bill of health.

The aircraft manufacturer has been enlisted by New Zealand's national carrier to conduct a peer review of its engineering operation, following the recent spate of mechanical mishaps.

Geofftey Thomas of West Australian Newspapers says Boeing conducts such reviews for a number of airlines and will be objective. He says it is a positive move because every organisation can do with a different perspective.

He says Air New Zealand's engineering is considered to be the world's best and believes Boeing is unlikely to find any major faults.

Mr. Thomas says other airlines beat a path to Air New Zealand's door for maintenance work because its engineering is considered first class.

NZers LURED INTO MARRIAGES OF CONVENIENCE - Xtramsm

The Immigration Minister believes too many New Zealanders are getting lured into marrying immigrants who simply want residency in New Zealand.

The problem has become such a concern for Lianne Dalziel, that she has issued a warning to people to be cautious and look out for immigrants who would do anything to live in New Zealand.

She says there are no figures on marriages of convenience at the moment because of the difficulty involved in trying to prove fraud.

But Ms Daiziel says people need to be aware of the risk that they can be taken advantage of by the large number of con artists.

COLENSO COUNTRY CAFE AND SHOP

Hidden behind an orchard windbreak of lanky gum and cryptomeria trees, in rural Coromandel, this classy little business is an oasis of neatly trimmed, fragrant hedges, where aromatic soups and good coffee are served alongside stylish gift lines and original New Zealand art. Each slice of cake is delivered with a flower picked from the surrounding garden. There's even a fat rabbit named Peter and a posse of donkeys to complete the picture of serenity and during the peak summer season, it's tough to find parking space here.

Located on SH25, the café is a charming mix of city chic and country grace. The owners Ruth and Andy Pettit, originally opened the business as a small juice shop. Soon they were offering Devonshire teas, and soon after that they began to serve soups and filled pita-bread pockets. Presently there are several employees who have worked there for more than ten years.

Small diners loved the box of old toys Ruth had gathered from her own children's bedrooms and placed in a corner of the café.

Meanwhile, the business continues to evolve. There are occasional art classes. The Pettit's son Alastair has helped update the music list, and the café now has a liquor license. The shop, which smells of lavender and old wood, is stocked with an ever-changing array of tasty preserves, scented delights and the kinds of beautiful things that Ruth likes to keep in her own home.

AVIATION MUSEUM SET FOR JANUARY -

from Wairarapa Times-Age

Two hundred and twenty-three Wairarapa men served in the Air Force in World War II. Another three served in World War I. One hundred and ten of them never came home.

When Tom Williams opens the Sport and Vintage Aviation Society Museum at Wings Over Wairarapa in January, each of these men will be remembered in a Roll of Honor. Alongside them will be the tale of the birth of topdressing aircraft, which happened in Wairarapa.

Mr. Williams and other members of the society have spent years collecting bits and pieces of historic aircraft. As well as their Tiger Moth, Harvard, Percival Proctor Mark V, and an original 1930s Piper Cub, the society will display a wealth of other aviation paraphernalia.

This eclectic mix includes parts of a DC3 Dakota, the gun turret of an Anson, cannon shells, a Link Trainer (the forerunner to modern aviation simulators), and a huge collection of model aircraft donated by the association's patron, John Coom.

The museum building, which was formerly Maxwell's Garage on the site of Write Price, was stored in a council works yard for years until the society began making inquiries about a building. The council gifted the building to the society.

When completed the museum is expected to have cost over $250,000, Mr. Williams said. Funding has come from an Eastern and Central Community Trust shooting star grant, a lotteries grant, Masterton Licensing Charitable Trust,

and $20,000 from the society's own funds. "This leaves us with a shortfall of $120,000, which is being kindly accommodated by the Wairarapa Building Society."

When finished the 630sq m building will include a café, retail shop, display areas, theaterette, offices, and accommodation for two fulltime staff. "We're looking for a couple. One who can fly planes and one who can make scones," Mr. Williams said.

The museum will be opened at the beginning of Wings Over Wairarapa on January 25.

(Letter: I have visited the old airport hanger where some of these vintage planes were kept in Masterton. There is a strong society of volunteers to restore old planes. I personally knew the gentleman and family who donated the model aircraft. I have not seen the new building but I am glad the aircraft society has new place. Visitors to NZ who like old planes and aircraft history are strongly urged to visit this new museum. Gary Ball, CA.)

THE MAGNETIC PULL OF NORTHLAND -
XtraMSN Travel

From Auckland you can feel the magnetic pull north. The motorway whisks you quickly away from the city's urban sprawl, there's a brief splash of green, and then a sudden glimpse of blue reveals that you are at Orewa Beach, a rapidly expanding holiday town.

The buildings are not allowed to extend more than ten stories high, so there is still a feeling of being in a small, seaside village, although properties on the waterfront sell for millions.

A few kilometres on, you wind down a twisting stretch of road and pass the turnoff to Waiwera, with its hot mineral pools, then over another ridge with picturesque views of meandering rivers and mangroves and the turnoff to the historic village of Puhoi, with its renowned. pub.

The turnoff to Matakana takes you to world- class wineries, perfect beaches without buildings or people, and bays where fish throw themselves onto your hook.

Once you return to state highway 1, look for the Twin Coast Discovery sign on the left, just before the road starts to climb suddenly. The western coast will soon come into view as you wind around the shore of the mighty Kaipara Harbour to the Kauri Museum at Matakohe. Wander inside, and you will suddenly realise that much of the surrounding farmland was once covered with magnificent native forest.

Dig for pipis, a local shellfish at Bayly's Beach, and confront the surging energy of the Tasman Sea. Enjoy a freshwater dip in the nearby Kai Iwi Lakes before disappearing into the deep green of Waipoua Forest, a glimpse of the kauri forest as it once was.

This is the home of Tane Mahuta, one of the largest trees in the world. Arch your neck upwards, and the solid, silvery trunk bursts into a magnificent canopy which soars above the surrounding trees.

As you follow the trail of departing Maori spirits you will eventually reach Cape Reinga, where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean in a churning mass of white water.

Wander back down the eastern coast, past countless sheltered bays and beaches, and take a detour to Whangaroa with its emerald green harbour. Order some delicious fresh fish and chips, then sit on the deck overlooking the water and gaze at the yachts as you munch away. Spend some time in Kerikeri, the small town known for its citrus orchards, wineries, arts and crafts shops and cafes.

Visit the historic Stone Store before you continue on to the Bay of Islands for a sail on a tall ship or a frolic with the dolphins. The Bay or Islands is a world-famous aquatic playground—the fishing is legendary and the beaches idyllic.

If the mood takes you, there are plenty of charterboats available along the eastern coast, from pretty little sloops to classic gamefishing launches and fast, luxurious power catamarans. Open a bottle of local chardonnay, a perfect accompaniment to the snapper you caught off the rocks that morning.

Further south, Tutukaka Harbour is the gateway to the Poor Knights Islands marine reserve, a world diving mecca.

After an elegant lunch in the attractive Town Basin that sits quayside of Whangarei City, meander back to Auckland via beautiful Bream Bay.

For more information Toll Free: 0800 363 463 and

email: visitorinfo@fndc.govt.nz

BOOKS - from NEXT

At Home on the Road by Jill Malcolm

Jill Malcolm, as editor of Pacific Wave magazine and ex-deadline diva, decided with her partner Bill to "bugger off' around New Zealand for a couple of years. Hitching their second-hand Anglo Astral caravan to their four-wheel drive, they embarked on an adventure as rich in anecdote as scenery. Exploring the highways and byways along with life itself, Jill's well-written, witty account chronicles their discoveries,

people they met and experiences as itinerants in their own country. (New Holland)

ALL THINGS NICE with Jo Seagar

Sugar and spice and all things nice are to be found in this scrumptious collection of over 75 recipes from New Zealand's best—Allyson Gofton, Jo Seagar, Alison Hoist, Edmonds Cookbook, Country Women's Institute, Chelsea and others. Mouth-watering colour photographs by Shaun Cato-Symonds seal this lip-smacking selection of the sweetest baking around. First up for me will be the hokey-pokey biscuits, lemon meringue pie and coconut ice. (Random House)
TAMAR - by Deborah Challinor

Local writer Deborah Challinor's debut novel charts the misfortunes and fortunes of young Cornish- woman Tamar Deane who emigrates to New Zealand in 1879. The first of a three-part saga, this is a compelling story rich in dialect, well-researched detail and descriptions of colonial life over a 25-year period. Issues such as prostitution, destitution and retribution are dealt with in a down-to-earth way. (HarperCollins)

KIWI GARDENS AT THEIR SUMMER BEST - IN FEBRUARY ( L.A. Times)

Take a stroll down the garden paths of New Zealand on a 12-night tour that takes advantage of the reversal of seasons in the Southern Hemisphere.

The Feb. 17 trip visits both South and North islands, with extended stays in Christchurch, Marlborough and Wellington. The tour is called "Summer in New Zealand: South and North Island Gardens." It coincides with Christchurch's annual Festival of Flowers.

The itinerary includes afternoon teas, wine tastings at several vineyards and visits to botanic gardens in Christchurch and Wellington. The group will also visit private gardens and nurseries.

Cost: US$3,595 per person, double occupancy, including 12 nights' accommodations, several meals, transfers, two harbor cruises, inter island ferry from South to North Island, sightseeing, taxes, tips and admissions. Round-trip air fare from LAX to New Zealand is not included.

(Contact: Inverness, Calif based Coopersmith's (415) 669-1914, www.coopersmiths.com)

PLESIOSAUR FOSSIL FIND A NEW SPECIES - Stuff

The near-complete body of a 70 million-year- old marine reptile found embedded in rock on a North Otago beach has been identified as a new species,

making it one of New Zealand's most remarkable fossil discoveries.

A description of the species of plesiosaur, a giant fast-swimming reptile that roamed the world at the time of the dinosaurs, has been published in British fossil journal Palaeontology.

The fossil, discovered north of Dunedin near Shag Point, had big portions of the body in almost-life position. It represents a previously unknown breed of the creature. It has been named Kaiwhekea Katiki by its describers, Otago University geology associate professor Ewan Fordyce and Arthur Cruickshank of England's Leicester Museums.

It is the first of its family — Cryptoclididae — to be found in New Zealand and is only the third such member to be found in the southern hemisphere. "Kaiwhekea" is the genus, meaning "squid-eater"; "Katiki" is the species, named for the beach immediately north of Shag Point.

Dr. Fordyce said that the fossil was believed to be a new species on the basis of different skull, teeth, eye and cheekbone proportions. It had been found by a "rock hound" who had brought in one piece of rock to the department. Dr. Fordyce and his team had uncovered the rest.

The traditional plesiosaur had been described as "a snake threaded through the body of a turtle". "Unexpectedly", this one was not so long in the neck.

THE BLACK SHEEP TOURING COMPANY

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What sets us apart from the rest of the "flock" of tour companies? Black Sheep Touring Co.'s philosophy and commitment to Service. We truly believe that there is no other tour of this quality and value available. We pledge to do things well and just a bit differently; that translates into an "off-the-beaten- track" experience you won't forget. We offer an un-paralleled journey exploring New Zealand's flora, fauna, cuisine, culture and an array of outdoor expeditions. I welcome the chance to discuss the details with you. K. Stacey Bean, Black Sheep Touring

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WELLINGTON - From Frommer's New Zealand

Wellington is, without doubt, my favorite New Zealand city. I've always seen it geographically as a miniature Hong Kong without the calligraphy— there's a beautiful curved harbor surrounded by hillsides dotted with houses and elegant high-rises clustered into a central fist. There is an immediacy and a vibrancy here that you don't get in other New Zealand cities.

Once seen as a stuffy bureaucrat-filled political capital, Wellington has reinvented intself in the past 5 years to become New Zealand's entertainment and cultural capital and the fastest-growing weekend destination in the country.

With the opening of the long-awaited Te Papa National Museum of New Zealand, the waterfront is alive again. The Courtenay Place neighborhood has the best bar, café, and restaurant scene in the country, and some say there are enough restaurants per head of population to rival New York City—who am I to argue?

Galleries, theatres, and shops abound, and the beauty of Wellington is that so much is within walking distance. It is a compact place with a pronounced cosmopolitan elegance, and an exciting corporate component adds to the rich urban atmosphere. Morning, noon, and night "the suits," as they are affectionately called here, crowd the streets.

The British originally called the harbor Port Nicholson, and it wasn't until after the 1839 visit of the Duke of Wellington that the city was renamed in his honor. The seat of government was moved here from Auckland in 1865.

Today's city is diverse and sophisticated. The fact that it can be extremely cold and windy here in winter is understandable if you consider there is little between the capital and Antarctica to stop the gales. And the fact that so much of the glass-fronted highrise sits on a major fault line seems of so little concern to its inhabitants that I almost feel picky raising the issue. Speaking of raising, it's interesting to note that a large portion of Wellington's waterfront playground is located on reclaimed land (just like Hong Kong)—and much of it forced up by a giant 1855 earthquake and finished off by clever acts of reclamation.

ATTRACTIONS IN HAWKES BAY

In Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, the sparkling Pacific Ocean forms a stunning backdrop to internationally renowned vineyards that produce award-winning wines. You can dine alfresco style in one of the many cafes and wineries.

Absorb the splendour of Art Deco and Spanish Mission style buildings that present one of the highest concentration of Art Deco buildings anywhere in the world.

For families there are beaches that stretch for miles and water theme parks that defy the imagination.

Swim with dolphins at Napier's Marineland, visit the Aquarium and learn about our injured penguin programme, and see the amazing sight of the Cape Kidnappers Gannet colony.

For the active there is every other outdoor- adventure you can imagine from jet-boating between wineries, hot air ballooning, caving, paragliding from Te Mata Peak, windsurfing or fishing for trout the size most people only dream about. At the end of a busy day your can unwind in hot pools set amidst gigantic Nikau palms.

Nature lovers can absorb the pristine scenery of Lake Waikaremoana, hike remote valleys or wander through the beautiful gardens that dot the region.

Perhaps simply sit on a beach and soak in the serene beauty of an unspoiled paradise.

Fossick among the antique shops and art galleries of Napier and Hastings, or visit the studios of many talented artists, potters, wood turners and crafts-people. Take time out for some leisurely shopping in any of the delightful malls.

THE MAGPIE

I've long enjoyed the warbling of the black and white magpies each morning throughout New Zealand. The following is from Robin-Hanbury-Tenison's Fragile Eden, A Ride Through New Zealand.

"There is a poem by Denis Glover in the Penguin book of New Zealand Verse which eloquently arid crisply captures the despair so many farmers have experienced in this unforgiving land. It also catches cleverly the warbling song of the magpies, often the first sound we would hear in the mornings. They are different from the European magpie, having been imported in large numbers from Australia; less starkly black and white, bigger and more mottled, they are everywhere in the New Zealand countryside, inquisitive, invasive and faintly sinister as they watch dispassionately the farmer's efforts to tame the land.

When Tom and Elizabeth took the farm

The bracken made their bed,