Volume II. Number 4

JUNE 1990

(-phile: {Greek--philos, loving} meaning one who loves, likes, or is favorably disposed to. Webster)

NEW ZEALAND, COUNTRY OF ISLANDS

Nearly 700 smaller islands, as well as the two main ones, make up the land of New Zealand. Ranging in size from Stewart Island down to small rock stacks, they stretch from the Kermadec Islands in the far north to Campbell Island in the subantarctic and eastward to the Chathams. Some of these islands have been cleared off by burning and turned into farmland: others look almost untouched and are much the same as they were thousands of years ago.

Undisturbed islands provide a glimpse into the long ago past by giving a clear picture of what prehistoric New Zealand may have looked like. It's possible to see how ecosystems worked before they were disturbed by humans.

Besides birds which never had to learn to fly because no predators were around, animals on many of the islands have evolved with nothing to fear and thus are vety tame. Some plants and animals now exist only on the smaller islands of NZ having been driven to extinction on the two main islands.

Several islands, such as Big South Cape off Steward Island have been heavily invaded by rats which probably swam ashore from fishing boats. Since their arrival in 1963. the rats have destroyed vegetation and insects as well as eliminating three bird species for which these small islands had been the last refuge. A few of another bird species, the South Island saddlebacks, were rescued and moved to nearby islands where they still survive.

Large numbers of mammals of several species, various plants and some insects have been brought to small islands, many accidentally, some deliberately. The effect of these imports can be disastrous. New Zealand has been extremely successful in programs set up to control and/or

remove invaders on several islands. Possums have been removed as well as goats and feral cats. Weeds have been controlled and forests replanted. Endangered rare birds, such as the kakapo, have been given sanctuary on certain of the islands.

The eradication of mice and rats has been the biggest problem, but with much help from volunteers and conservation employees, seven islands are now rodent-free. Some islands, close to other rat-infested land, cannot be cleared since rats can swim quite a distance.

Nearly half of New Zealand's islands are sanctuaries of some sort. Most of them are too isolated to be visited by the public. They exist first and foremost to protect the animals and plants living there. but several islands are open for people to visit. Check with a NZ Conservation Department office for information.

WORLD AMATEUR GOLF

The New Zealand Golf Association is hosting the premiere event in World Amateur Golf later this year (October) in Christchurch. The springtime event will be the most prestigious sporting attraction staged in the South Island in 1990 as New Zealand celebrates its own history of 150 years.

The World Amateur will attract entries from 40 countries for the men's event and 35 countries for the women's. The two courses, Russley and Shirley, will be in pristine condition in October and will reflect the preparation which is already well advanced to insure the highest international standard.

For information contact: The N.Z. Golf Assn.. Dominion Sports House, P.O. Box 11842. Wellington NZ. Tel. (04)722-967. FAX (04)712-152.

KIWI CAMPERVAN CRISIS

Many changes are being made in NZ these days and some are not for the better. For instance, four of the largest campervan companies have merged under the name L.EISURE PORT . The four are:

Newman's Motor Homes, Mt Cook Motor Homes, Horizon Holidays Motor Homes, and Maui Campas.

The four companies have lost their individuality, and the umbrella company seems to be having problems operating such a big enterprise. Maintenance is haphazard. and at times campervans are being sent out on the road inadequately equipped. Customers are losing valuable vacation time trying to correct problems which probably did not exist before this merger. Our son talked with other campervanners using LEISURE PORT and heard pretty much the same story.

We firmly believe that the Kiwis involved in the LEISURE PORT enterprise will use their ingenuity to straighten out the problems they're having. Management people were distressed when they learned what was happening to their customers and were more than willing to make recompense.

Meanwhile you might want to check out a couple other campervan possibilities: One is:

SUNTREK New Zealand Holiday represented by Adventure Center. 1311 63rd St.. Ste 200, Emeryville CA 94608. (415)654-1879 in USA. (800)227-8747 in USA. (800)228-8747 in CA.

The other is: Holiday Tours & Travel (contact through Dave McDonald of McDonald Motors Ltd. 171 Armagh St. Christchurch (tel. 660-927 or 660-

929).

OUTER EDGE EXPEDITIONS

In December 1990 adventurers will be given an opportunity to participate in a Heli-Biking Adventure . The trip entails 2 weeks of mountain biking, hiking and spelunking around the South Island. It culminates in a helicopter lift to a remote and beautiful part of the Shotover River Valley. After 2 days of riding down we will trade in our bikes for white water rafts and shoot the Shotover River (class IV-V rapids).

The trip will go with only 2 people and will not take more than 8. This gives greater flexibility when traveling, and when in such remote and beautiful places who wants a crowd? Unfortunately this also means that fewer people can go and the expedition will fill quickly.

Get details from: Brian Obrecht. Outer Edge Expeditions, 222 So. Figueroa. Ste 1311. Los Angeles CA 90012. Tel. 213-626-7073, or 800-322- 5235.

SOUTH PACIFIC FINANCIAL ADVENTURE

Beautiful New Zealand and exciting Australia are the focus of an unusual trip to the South Pacific October 19 to November 7, 1990. Adrian Day of Investment Analyst will join in the comprehensive tour visiting Sydney. Canberra, Albury. Melbourne, Wellington. Christchu rch. Queenstown. M ilford Sound, Auckland and more. Visit these lands of few

people. vast outback areas, cosmopolitan populations, abundant natural resources--mostly untapped. Undervalued securities and real estate. possibilities of earning over 15% interest Luxurious accommodations, some dinners in private homes and on yachts, in exclusive vineyards--even on a mountain peak. Seminars and investment conferences. Sydney and Auckland stock exchanges. A gold mine, breathtaking beaches, glacier flight, luxury cruises. and much more.

Call Julia Guth (800)433-1528 or in Maryland (301)234- 0515.

Passport Club. 824 E Baltimore St., Baltimore MD 21202.

KIWI ELDERHOSTEL PROGRAMS

Elderhostel of Boston is offering three New Zealand courses during 1990. Some are three weeks in length. some are four, and all are presented from October to December. The aim is to "balance academic stimulation with 'having fun'." There are lectures and field trips which will give an understanding of NZ culture, geography and/or natural history. Housing will be on university capuses or in nearby hotels.

Get information from Elderhostel. 80 Boylston St., Ste 400, Boston MA 02116.

VALENTINE'S

We didn't have an opportunity to try it on our recent visit to Auckland. but were solemnly assured by our Papatoetoe friends that the best place to dine out in the Auckland area is Valentine's in Pakuranga (120 Pakuranga Ad). The charge is $NZI9 for a buffet-type assortment of 126 dishes, well prepared. They have a serving at 6:00 PM and another at 8:00 PM.

Its very important to make reservations. Phone 562-771.

KIWI GIRAFFES

No. New Zealand has no native giraffes to boast of, but at Orana Park in Christchurch you can hobnob at eye level with those beautiful animals and personally feed them a leafy snack. We did that, along with our kids and grandkids. and what a thrill it was!

At the appointed time for giraffe feeding we climbed steps to a platform and stood at eye level with the giraffes. When the feeding personnel arrived, they handed out leafy branches, and we were cautioned to hold on tight because giraffe tongues pull hard. They did indeed--those long, purplish-blue tongues.

The giraffes' long-lashed eyes were as big, dark and beautiful as we had expected. Jaffa. the huge male who kept to himself other than at feeding time. stuck his head right in among us, and we had the

unbelievable privilege of petting his neck! The two youngsters in the giraffe group seemed to be very shy. and when they came up finally, they delicately took only one leaf at a time.

Orana Park is worthy of support. It was established in 1970 by a small group of people under the name of the South Island Zoological Society who were interested in trying to save endangered wildlife. The Park has been notably successful in its breeding program, and has sent many animals to zoos and has returned some to the wild.

Be sure to visit Orana Park when you're in Christchurch. It's open every day except Christmas from 10 AM to 5 PM. and all the animal feeding times are exciting. (You should have seen the tiger fight!l)

THE 5th BANK AND PIANO BY CANDLELIGHT

While waiting for a middle-of-the-night sailing on the Arahura from Picton to Wellington. one of our Sons treated our little group to dinner at the 5th Bank on one of the main streets of Picton. The menu posted outside enticed us in, and each of us had a fine meal,

The restaurant acquired its name because it is housed in an attractive old building which had been the 5th Trading Bank of New Zealand until about 20 years ago. The restaurant was established eight years ago by a California lawyer.

Good background music added to the ambience, and when we heard some really tantalizing piano music backed by an orchestra. John made inquiries. The pianist was a young New Zealander named Carl Doy. and his music is on an album, Piano By Candlelight 2. It is the No. 1 album in the country. After that we heard it everywhere. We bought a cassette and listened to it often as we drove. It and the lovely scenery enhanced each other. Look for the album when you go down.

AMERICANS IN PARADISE

(No. 6 of a series)

Richard Holcomb. psychologist and breath therapist, grew up in New York State. He married a New Zealand lady whom he met in Minneapolis, and they lived in New Zealand for 5 years. where he worked with computers. After a divorce Holcomb quit his job, prepared to return to the US, but was persuaded to stay on. He has since taken five trips back "home", and quickly learned that he had gotten "used to" New Zealand. He particularly enjoys Christchurch, saying that "here I have access to the advantages of a large city, with none of the disadvantages."

On his last visit to the US (6 weeks in Florida) with his new English wife, he found the highways quite terrifying. The two of them found they had to stop and sit in the car quietly for five minutes now and then.

doing deep breathing. American roads. They fewer and shorter trips Holcomb feels time to sit and enjoy missing the lower US in consumer goods. parks. because of the stress of the had to pace themselves, take while there, that Americans just don't take being alive. He does admit to prices and the greater creativity He enjoys American national parks.

His Christchurch home, he feels, compares favorably with any he might have elsewhere, and he finds housing prices to be equivalent to those in American small towns. Electric rates in NZ are low. Schools are reasonably good. though perhaps students aren't quite as motivated (at least not money- wise).

Holcomb feels that health care Is fine, and at present New Zealanders can get free care at public hospitals. He said malpractice suits are not allowed in NZ, thereby making insurance unnecessary for practitioners and they can charge less to their patients. Many residents carry their own health insurance, thus avoiding waiting for care.

In New Zealand the ACC (Accident Compensation Corporation) sets the rates for payment to citizens for accidents. The funds for accident compensation come from a levy paid by NZ workers, much like Americans pay into Social Security. Rates vary from 1.5% of gross pay at the lowest to I5 or 18% at the highest. Machinists, for instance, more likely to receive an injury, pay the high rates, while those least apt to be injured on the job, such as white collar workers, pay the least.

Unlike some Americans in NZ, Holcomb's main interest is in human beings. so he says he finds all the mental stimulation he can handle in Ni He does occasionally feel lonely for certain people in America.

Richard has some advice for Americans who might be thinking of moving to NZ: "You have to leave greed behind, leave impatience behind. If you want a calm lifestyle, go south: if you want a life more like back home, then choose the North Island. A quiet family life is far more important in NZ than having fun."

As for being accepted in NZ expect it to take a little time. He has found that Kiwis who haven't traveled tend not to have a lot to talk about, so he gravitates toward those who have traveled and to foreigners.

Richard Holcomb's work as a breath therapist teaches people to relax really deeply, doing deep breathing--to let go of any negativity, stress, any trauma (even birth trauma). Ten sessions can make dramatic changes in clients' lives. He feels that it works so well because it's non-intellectual.

In conclusion, Holcomb made the statement that Americans have a lot to learn about themselves when they come to New Zealand. He feels they are likely to see their culture for what it really is.

KIWI LETTER BOX

Subscribers to KiWiphile FILE most likely have visited NZ and some, unfortunately. could have broken a bone and then have been hospitalized. Some unfortunately may do so in the future. I have been asked why we USA people cant stay on our feet. In November 1987 I was one of 3 patients in a 4-bed ward who could not.

Under NZ Compensation law, accident patients have free medical care, so I wanted to find some way to show appreciation and I found a way. The Hospital Social Work Department has a meager fund to help their needy people with bus fare to hospitals and other medical needs.

So if anyone has been a NZ hospital patient or should be in the future this is a way you can help. $US5O.00 means about $NZ82.0O,

Not only does one get good medical care, you also get adopted while there by the gracious NZ people. When they visit friends or family and find you are a visitor, you become family while there. Two families saw that I had at least one visitor each day and brought me books, candy. fruit and flowers from their gardens. But most important was the feeling they cared.

After 3 weeks and on crutches given me by the hospital. I flew home with mixed feelings. It was good to come home but sad to leave my new friends. We do keep in touch by mail.

Here is the address in case you wish to contribute: Social Service Dept., Southland Hospital (KEW). Invercargill NZ. They can use your help.

Ruth A. Tulley, Walnut Creek CA

Here is the information I have on how to fly to New Zealand on all non-smoking flights:

--If all goes as planned, starting July 1st. 1990. all the Canadian airline companies will ban smoking on all their flights world-wide. Canadian Air International (CAl) flies from Vancouver to Auckland via Honolulu. They have joint-fare arrangements with American & Northwest Airlines, which allows you to fly from L.A. or S.F. to Honolulu on American or Northwest and then transfer to CAl through to Auckland for the same cost as other airlines non-stop service. The connection times are generally quite good--no more than about I 1/2 hours. The Mainland to Honolulu flights are all non-smoking already, so by July 1st one can travel in completely non-polluted air all the way to Auckland! Additionally. Air Canada and CAI travel to most parts of the world--so between the 2 of them we'll be able to go practically anywhere, if you work out the proper connections. The only possible hitch in all of this is that the Canadian tobacco companies are currently fighting very strongly to put a stop to this up-coming ban (SURPRISE, SURPRISE!!)--but hopefully health will win over

wealth this timel Perhaps it wouldn't hurt for people to write letters to the Canadian airline companies urging them to not back down.

--There are rumors that Air New Zealand might start making 1 or 2 of their flights every week all non-smoking. This seems a perfect solution that would give everyone a choice. Perhaps in time, it would. even lead to a total-world-wide ban to this poison on all airlines--but we have to start somewhere. Writing letters to the airlines help. I've been doing it for years to the US carriers and they always respond very positively--and besides, look what's happened now--NO SMOKING ON ANY U.S. FLIGHTS!!

Thanks for your wonderful newsletter...

Michael Miller, Los Angeles CA

TELL THEM YOU SAW IT IN THE

KlWlphile FILE!!

Cattle in New Zealand are many,

But compared to the sheep there's hardly any.

With over 71 million sheep to keep

There's hardly enough room for one to sleep.

The people of New Zealand are the friendliest in the world by far.

They treat you as a neighbor and a friend. Their love for their country will never end.

The country of New Zealand although small

Believes in equal rights for citizens one and all,

The Maoris and the pakeha in peace they live together

In a land where beauty will go on forever.

By Kari Wilton, age 12

La Crescenta CA

BED & BREAKFAST NEW ZEALAND

Bed & Breakfast New Zealand by Elizabeth Hansen has just been revised and up-dated by the author. To obtain a copy write to Kiwi Distributors Ltd., P.O. Box 1721, La Jolla CA 92037. The cost is $8.95, plus $2 postage and handling, and 65 cents tax for California residents. If you already have a copy of the book and want only the revision insert send .a self- addressed, stamped business-size envelope and $2. Kiwi Distributors Ltd. also sells Ms. Hansen's The Woman's Travel Guide to New Zealand ($7.95, plus $2. plus 58 cents tax(CA). If ordering both books include only one postage and handling fee.

BITS AND BITES

• The Shotover Resort Hotel north of

Quéenstown overlooks a lovely river valley and is surrounded by rugged sculptured mountains, beautiful at any time of the year. Good news is their budget priced accommodations for $NZ35 a night (in contrast to their superior accommodations beginning at $NZ9O). No TV in these small rooms, but comfortable beds and private bath.

• It's smart to plan on driving out of Auckland late on a Sunday when everyone else is returning and, of course, the reverse on Friday. Be sure to plan ahead for Kiwi holiday-times so you won't have a last-minute scramble for a place to sleep (i.e. Easter weekend, a heavy-duty 4-day affair down under—their last holiday before winter settles in).

• Tahuna Beach Holiday Park in Nelson. though huge, has excellent facilities for campervans. Also great for automobile travelers, with clean. comfortable motel-type units (called flats). No TV and you rent sheets and towels. $45 a night with a minor charge for the linens. We don't recommend all NZ campground flats, but this one is excellent.

• Look for national radio stations in NZ. Lots of good information, but best of all, they play an amazing and entertaining variety of musical selections:

classical, old pops like Peggy Lee. folk music--you name it. We loved it.

• We were told that the last area in NZ to allow campervans to park overnight just anywhere along the road is around Gisborne. The understandable reason for clamping down elsewhere is sanitation problems.

• If you want farm work in NZ. why not place an ad in The Straight Furrow , the country's main agricultural publication. Address: Agriculture House, corner of Featherston & Johnston Streets, Wellington.

NZ.

• The Stone Cottage in Arrowtown has new and in my (Eva's) opinion, has slipped a bit in quality.(John feels otherwise, but background music seems inappropriate).

Thank you for mentioning KIWIphile FILE

when making inquiries to other publications

NZTP. travel agents. etc. We need recognition!

MOUTERE TAME EELS

One of New Zealand's most delightful and unsophisticated attractions is located a few miles outside Nelson, in Moutere. This is a small enterprise run by May and Aiwyn Newport. Twenty-some years ago their young sons discovered they could hand feed the eels who lived in a stream on their property. The eels, all females, have ever since congregated twice

a day for their feedings. Mr. and Mrs. Newport decided to open the feedings to the public, and constructed a platform for the viewers.

For the price of $2.00, one can ford a small stream by foot or by car and walk down a path to the stream. Mr. or Mrs. Newport hand out sticks about two feet long and small chunks of meat to be stuck on the end of the stick. The eels, with a somewhat delicate - yet greedy - slurp, take the morsel of meat into their mouths and down it goes. The more adventurous can try feeding directly from their fingers. The eels have only the tiniest of teeth so really can't nip very effectively.

Male eels live in the sea, and once a year some of the females go down river to mate. Others hibernate under the rocks. Amazingly, many of the animals live until the age of 60 or 70. As Mrs. Newport said, eels have a reputation for being vicious, but they are not

We were told that the eels are much like people, each with her own personality and her own way of begging for food or asking for attention. The people on the farm know each eel individually. Often the older eels stretch out on rocks wanting to be stroked. Baby eels swim from their ocean birthplace to the farm when they're about 3 years old. They were described as being "cheeky" and playful like human youngsters.

We highly recommend this adventure.

Though I had to be persuaded to go in, I was glad I did.

Moutere Tame Eels. Wilsons Road. Moutere Valley

FEEDING TIMES: 10 AM to noon 1 PM to 4 PM

KIWI TELEPHONE CARDS

It's now very easy to make phone calls at public phones in NZ. Buy a plastic phone card at a dairy, service station. 24-hour shop or Telecom Centre. They come in values of $5. $10. $20 and$50.

The card contains magnetically coded information which Is "read" by the cardphone. The cost of the call is deducted as the call progresses and a small display screen shows the aount remaining on the card after a call.

The plan is to give the choice of using the public card phone or a coin phone. Perhaps these card phones are around the US. but we almost never use a pay phone so don't know, and our telephone company couldn't tell us.

THE BLACKBALL HILTON

by Judy Miller

We arrived just after the last light faded from the evening sky: our arrival witnessed only by the first faint stars and thin, autumn moon. It was April in New Zealand and although the days were lovely and warm, the nights turned cold quickly and we were looking

forward to a hot meal and warm beds after a long day on the road.

I was traveling with my cousin who met me in Nelson and we had driven south through mountains with slopes covered in glorious fall colors, passed through Murchison early in the day and continued through the Buller Gorge where we stopped beside the road for a noontime picnic. We had been joined by several thousand sand flies as well but the beauty and serenity more than made up for the uninvited guests. After lunch we continued to Westport for a visit to the seal colony there and then hurried south to Greymouth.

I had made reservations at a local motel as our plans were to simply pass though Greymouth quickly and get on with our journey south. However, when I picked Jim up that morning at the Tasman Towers Youth Hostel in Nelson. he showed me a flyer describing a newly reopened historic hotel in the old coal and gold mining town of Blackball just east of Greymouth. We decided that a brief detour might be interesting.

It was late afternoon when we got to Greymouth and it did not prove too difficult to find route 7 which leads east to Stillwater. From here you must be a bit more careful about watching for signs and we finally found a tiny one pointing the way to Blackball. We drove for what seemed like forever before coming across a large. hand-lettered sign stating 'Blackball Hilton this way". By now it was past dusk and the signs were harder to find but we continued and every few miles another would appear in the car's headlights.

It sat, large and brooding at the side of the road. Only a faint light showed through the grimy window of the pub which fronted the hotel. We approached the front door across a slightly tilted porch and peered into the window down a long dark passage way. Doors opened off each side and to the left a wide stairway led to the second floor. My mind heard a honky tonk piano and laughter, the jingle of coins and the clink of bottles but there was absolute silence. A bit hesitantly we opened the door and made our way down the hall to the first open door which led into a large room. It was dominated at one end by the unused and deserted pub with its imposing bar whose dusty shelves contained books not bottles. At the opposite end of the room was a dining area with a pool table and enormous stone fireplace in which burned a hot coal fire.

Finally we could hear voices and hello'd until a friendly face appeared in the kitchen doorway and we were officially invited to come in. We were immediately offered coffee and asked to share dinner with owners Dave and Linda Evans and their boys Tom, Daniel and Bryn. Gratefully we accepted the coffee and sidled up to the fireplace and warmed ourselves inside and out. Being latecomers, we declined dinner and, after first asking permission to

use the dining room, we rummaged through the back of the car for our cheese, peanut butter, honey and crackers as well as enough minimum gear to get us through the night After finishing a quick snack we followed Dave upstairs to the sleeping rooms.

Two dimly lit hallways ran parallel down the length of the building. A bunkroom with about 30 assorted beds was at one end with rooms opening off both hallways and bathroom facilities at the far end. I actually prayed not to have to get up during the night to use them. Jim decided on the bunkroom and I chose a small room off the opposite hallway but within yelling distance just in case. The room contained two low narrow beds, a nightstand, and a 'amp. It was definitely not fancy, but it was clean and the offer of an extra blanket welcome. I tucked a hot water bottle between the sheets and went back downstairs to join Jim and we walked across the street to the local pub. The night was incredibly black and the stars brighter than I had ever seen and it was cold. There wasn't a lot going on at the pub so after a quick drink, we made our way back to the Hilton.

A fire was still burning and we pulled our chairs close. A tiny black and white kitten jumped into my lap. settled himself and started to purr. We poured a generous amount of good whiskey, propped our feet up by the fire and talked long into the night

It was freezing in the morning. Since I had slept in my clothes in order to keep warm and to make a quick getaway if necessary. it didn't take me long to get downstairs. It was Sunday morning and no one was about yet The fire had burned itself out and my fingers were numb as I filled the jug to make a hot cup of coffee. The coffee helped, but I still shook as I sat and read the morning paper. Finally I heard noises from another room and going across the hall I found the boys watching Sunday morning cartoons on the telly. Blessedly they had an electric heater that was doing its best to warm things up, so I crouched as close as I dared and waited for everyone else to rite and shine. Soon I heard noises from the direction of the kitchen and very soon Dave had a fire burning and Linda started breakfast. Things looked much brighter after that.

After breakfast we got our first daytime look at the Hilton. It was not beautiful. Gray and weathered and slightly askew, it seemed a symbol of a rowdy and glorious past when men searched for yellow gold. and took ton after ton of black gold from the surrounding hills.

The warm hospitality had more than made up for the cold weather. and we reluctantly packed the car and began our journey south. And once again as we pulled away I heard the honky tonk piano. laughter, the dink of bottles and a jingle of coins.

************************

Before submitting this article, I wrote to the Evans' asking for an update on the Blackball Hilton.

and I received the following reply "....nowadays it is much warmer. We have added 3 extra showers, new beds, new plumbing, new drapes, repainted, and put in 4 stained glass windows and stained glass lamps in the dining room (all stained glass is made by Linda). Also, new (old) furniture, a larger kitchen, rewired electricity, new fire escapes and new foundations. The spa pool and sauna get well used. Linda cooks good dinners (I do breakfasts).--David Evans.

Blackball is a historical gold and coal mining township 20 min. from Greymouth. It has 2 stores, Workingmen's Club. pub, bowling green, tennis courts and swimming pool.

You can also enjoy fishing, hunting, gold panning, jet boating, nature walks including the picturesque Croesus Track, or just relaxing in the friendly West Coast atmosphere.

The Blackball Hilton is just great for a weekend away and has a TV lounge, Pool Room, Sauna and Spa Pool. Tasty evening meals and breakfast are available.

Accommodations: $NZI2 per night (sleeping bags), $NZ15 and $NZI7.50 per night in service rooms.

Write Blackball Hilton, Main Road, Blackball NZ.

RENEWALS - Please check the expiration date on your mailing label. We can send you one reminder, but it will save postage if you will automatically renew. We're proud of our renewal rate--and want to keep you on our list. The KIWIphile FILE gives a lot for very little money--so don't miss out!

New Zealand seems to be doing a lot to help save the environment. We saw bins for depositing recyclable plastics as well as others for good used clothing. Many plastic bags there are photodegradable (degrades in sunlight). We saw Glad bags in supermarkets which are biodegradable. Also a range of natural household cleaners unde the brand name Down to Earth : all-purpose cleaners, toilet cleaners and dish-washing liquids that are biodegradable. non-toxic and phosphate free, and are packed in recyclable plastic containers. Also we saw toilet and facial tissues made from 100% recycled paper.

Best areas for buying fresh vegetables and fruits at roadside stands were the lower part of the North Island, on the South Island around Nelson, and around Queenstown and Alexandra.

We drove Arthur's Pass again on a gorgeous, windswept, sunny day. In spite of the not-too-long

piece of narrow, rather precipitous road, it was a breeze. Even campervans make it easily with care. Don't endanger your life on that narrow stretch trying to stop the car to snap spectacular pictures. You'll find a roomy place to pull off in the most beautiful spot, with a high platform for viewing and filming.

We watched the bungy jumpers north of Queenstown. It's quite a thrill just to observe. One member of our group decided to partake, but would have had to wait for an hour or two, and we didn't have the time. Very popular activity.

Chez Pierre of Hokitika has moved! This French provincial restaurant, rated highly in the 1989 NZ Listener-Montana Wines competition, relocated last November from Hokitika up highway 6 to Greymouth. It's at the south edge of town. We dined there one evening and found the food and service to be excellent. The vegetables were particularly well prepared, and the pumpkin soup was fluffy and delicate. (If you like to enjoy the best restaurants, we still have photocopies of the list of winners in the above-mentioned competition. Just send an SASE to us). Our next issue will have a few restaurant suggestions from us and some good places to stay the night.

You would do well to buy motel vouchers here (in US) as add-ons to your independent travel. We bought ten from Best Western to use now and then and, as we found out later, paid much more than we would have just paying as we went along. In addition, our choice of accommodations would not have been so limited.

NEXT ISSUE - We will include a gift for our subscribers to bring a small piece of the spirit of New Zealand to the U.S.

THANKS FOR YOUR LETTERS AND NZ TRAVEL HINTS. WE WELCOME MORE FOR THE NEXT ISSUE OF

UNTIL NEXT TIME - KIA ORA