Volume V. No. 4

JUNE 1993

(-phile: {Greek--philos, loving} meaning one who loves, likes, or is favorably disposed to.-Webster)

FOLDER WITH NEW ZEALAND'S BED &

BREAKFAST INNS NOW AVAILABLE

A variety of New Zealand's finest intimate inns

ranging from wilderness lodges to 19th Century hotels are listed in the Bed & Breakfast Inns of New Zealand folder now available free through the New Zealand Tourism Board. Included are 23 independently owned establishments located throughout New Zealand with daily per room rates, based on double occupancy, ranging from moderate, up to US$52, to premium, starting at US$79.

Types of accommodation featured in the brochure include historically listed homes, country cottages, 19th Century hotels, mountain retreats, and wilderness lodges, all of which offer superior lodging, healthy cuisine, unique ambiance and impeccable service designed to provide the utmost in personal attention.

Sample properties include Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge, offering a rainforest and riverside sethng on New Zealand's South Island. Guests enjoy trout fishing, daily guided nature activities, and seal and penguin walks. North Island inns include the Dawson Falls Tourist Lodge built in 1896 and situated within the Egmont National Park in Taranaki. All guestrooms offer breath- taking panoramic views across the valley below or the slopes of Mt. Egmont.

For your free copy please contact: New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd, Suite #300, Santa Monica CA 90401. Ph: (310) 395-7480 OR (800) 388-5494.

TOURING WITH SARA

What makes Sara's tours special? The people who make up the small group. The perspective thaey can have on the substance of this adventure. The opportunity to attend church services in New Zealand and Australia. Freedom to adjust the plan for the day. Variety of activities: guided walks, boat trips and cruises, a train ride, cities and countryside, wildlife and cultural sights, shopping in local grocery stores for picnic lunches, staying with one or more families.

Dr. Sara Ann Lincoln, Tour Leader, has spent a satisfying so far. traveling and living abroad. She has a doctorate in English from the University of Michigan.She has organized and conducted over a dozen tours to Eng- land, Scotland, Wales, Austria, and Japan.

Dr. Lincoln is offering her unique experience to conduct a tour of New Zealand plus Australia--December 18, 1993 to January 8, 1994. The tour cost of $3,999.00 includes round trip air fare from Los Angeles, all lodging and breakfasts, 8 lunches and dinners, transportation by coach, train, and plane within NZ and Australia, guided walks, 3 cruises, sightseeing admission fees, and taxes.

For further information contact Dr. Sara Ann Lincoln, 840 Armstrong Road, Lansing MI 48911. (517)

393-0846. You will be sent a list of several people who have traveled with Sara over the last decade and who will be glad to share their perspective on her tours.

NEW ZEALAND'S FLYING FOXES

by Dennis A. Cavagnaro, Oakland, Calif.

New Zealand may well be the friendliest country on earth. Its the place of families and simple "G-rated" pleasures. The country's gentle "Dick and Jane" civilization might best be epitomized by the "Plunket Rooms" found in the center of virtually every town, large and small. A "Plunket Room" is a quiet building in which mothers may nurse their babies and change diapers in unhurried privacy.

It's easy to meet Kiwis (the human variety, not the bird or fruit) and enjoy their many kindnesses which remind us of an earlier, unhurried and trusting America.

We came to New Zealand to put the death of our 13-month old daughter Lea behind us. Nine-year old son Bub had lost ten of his 60 pounds in worry that he too would die like his sister. Our doctor told us to go to a place where we knew no one and no one knew us. Our three weeks driving the length of North and South Islands revit- alized us. Bub's encounters with friendly Kiwis and happy "flying fox" rides soon allayed his fears. Our twice-daily ice cream stops (10 cents-a-scoop) not only restored Bub's lost ten pounds, he gained ten more to 70.

On our travels we stopped at Nelson, South Island, to enjoy its Tahunanui Beach. We then drove west on NZ Highway No. 6. An hour passed until the road crossed the Motueka River at a place identified as Motupiko. On the left we discovered to our delight, a playground / campground full of homemade New Zealand children's rides and other delights. The handmade sign over the entrance identified it as "Quinny's Bush." To the locals and a few fortunate tourists it's known as "Quinney's Bush."

If this imaginative, rustic and decidedly non- commercial playground could be thought of as an amusement park, it would be light years removed from the glitter and sophistication of a Disneyland.

Ray Quinney, the third generation owner of the site, opened the 14-acre park as the "Motupiko Picnic Area and Campsite" in 1962. Visitors over the years, however, call it "Quinney's Bush," and that's now its official name. Its existence is virtually unknown even in New Zealand except to the locals and a few fortunate unhurried tourists.

Ray's original idea was to build the park on his riverside land to raise funds for the local Motupiko Parish Vicarage Building Fund. Donations (there are no park charges) over the years from happy visitors have been so generous that after expenses for improvements, Ray has given over $70,000 to various Christian and other charitable causes in New Zealand and around the world.

Encouraged by his first visitors, Ray set out to build his unique amusements and amenities. Waking early, he conceived many of his rides in the predawn hours.

The ten "flying foxes" of various lengths and heights, are the most popular. Like all rides, they are not just for children. The longest, a 90-yard downward- sloping smooth cable, is suspended between two upright poles. The rider mounts a flat board seat suspended from runners on the smooth cable, then lets go, and gravity does the rest for a fast and exhilarating flight down a five-percent slope.

The "shaky rope" is even simpler. A stiff 1-inch wire cable is strung slackly above ground between some trees. Very few can manage to walk it as the cable shakes violently unless the walker has a great sense of balance.

The "upside down wheel" is an old dray wheel set on a steep angle. The rider holds on tightly and is spun around by a friend.

The "giddy wheel" is an old dray wheel set horizontally on axles with ball bearings. Being spun on such a tight circle, the ride makes adults giddy, but children can take 20 turns and still "walk the plank" without falling over.

Ray is famous for his 'sack rides" in the early evening. A 50-horsepower tractor pulls a trailer, across which is fitted a 20-foot pole. Ten sacks filled with hay lie on sheets of smooth steel and are attached to the pole with ten-foot ropes.

Ray never drives more than ten mph and has given thousands of rides without a serious accident. But when he makes figure eights in the grass, the riders sitting on the sacks are given the sense of speed. He gets teenagers to pay their fines with a kiss.

When the sun sets and darkness descends on the bush, another adventure gets underway. This is a visit to the glow worms via a trip in Ray's truck to the riverbank. There his guests scramble down rope ladders until they reach the place where hundreds of tiny lights puncture the darkness.

The glow worms are really the carnivorous larvae of a native fly. They spin a delicate web in front of them and their blue-green light attracts midges into their net for supper. They actually look very much like stars shining and are quite plentiful where there is dampness and ferns.

Campers pick their own sites and none are reserved. There are showers and toilets and there is swimming in the nearby river. Camp rules are few and Ray makes a point of meeting all campers. Suggested donations are $1 per person per night or $3 per family.

Ray's purpose in this unusual project is found on his sign at the entrance: "This property is open to you, and these amusements and amenities are made and maintained for your use and enjoyment as a testimony to the wonder and reality of God in Christ, to you as a personal Savior and Lord. I am Anglican and live across the road."

Queen Elizabeth II during her 1986 visit to New Zealand presented the Queen's Service Medal to Ray Quinney in recognition of his service through his unique park.

Nearby Nelson and its Tahunanui Beach is a prized vacation destination. The locals boast of the country's most favorable weather. Many charming guest houses are a short walk from the sandy beach. Book early for the December and January school holidays.

The two-hour drive along the rugged coastline to Nelson from the North Island ferry landing at Picton is winding but gorgeous. The New Zealand Outward Bound School at Anakiwa, a slight detour enroute, has been described as the most perfectly situated in the world.

A little farther along the main highway, Havelock is home port to the mail boats plying the lightly-populated islands in the Marlborough Sound. The boats accommodate tourists.

MYSTERY, INTRIGUE & MURDER WEEKEND

. . . . at the Brian Boru Hotel . . . in true Agatha Christie style. Step into the world of the historic Brian Boru Hotel where windows rattle, floorboards creak and ghosts come out after midnight. Guests and actors assemble Friday night to begin their weekend discovering Coromandel while solving the exclusively designed mystery with like-minded enthusiasts.

You will pay NZ$355 per person for Friday night supper--two nights accommodation--two special

breakfasts--Saturday tour by private coach, scenic rafting, gold mine tour, sea food luncheon at Whitianga--fancy dress buffet dinner--fun, friends and fantasy. Rewards to best sleuths. Dates all through 1993.

Contact Ian Matheson, 200 Richmond St., Thames NZ - phone (07) 868-6523--FAX (07) 868-9760.

RECOMMENDED ACCOMMODATION

--from Daphne and Leonard Lewin, Colorado

It is a pleasure to be able to recommend an extremely pleasant, quiet and very reasonable accommodation. Algies Bay Motel, 505 Mahurangi East Road, Algies Bay, near Warkworth, is one hour north of Auckland, has spacious one-bedroom units with color TV, fully- equipped kitchen, automatic washing machine and clothes dryer. All for NZ$50 per day (early Feb. 1993); and a free morning paper thrown in as well!

Polite and helpful hosts are Bruce and Irene Oldfield, Phone (09) 4255-747. A real bargain, and the bay and surroundings are beautiful.

NEW ZEALAND LOVE AFFAIR--from NZ Listener

Anita McNaught, British-born NZ-TV correspondent, has this to say about New Zealand:

"I've fallen in love with New Zealand. I have a love affair with this country. New Zealand has probably become the love of my life. It's just got under my skin, I guess. I mean, why did I bring us to a bench in a park. looking out over the harbour towards that extraordinary piece of geography that is Rangitoto?"

Why indeed. "I think because it affects me deeply. You go back to the UK, and people say, why have you spent all this time in New Zealand? Arid you cannot express to them the beauty that is something like this. The sound of the waves crashing on the west coast. The sound of a tui calling from the trees below your back balcony. You can't explain to them what the Hauraki Gulf looks like, sparkling on a summer's day. What it's like running across a pipeline in the middle of an estuary. lt's...accessibility. Its the fact that it's taken for granted here, in the nicest sense. The fact that it's a part of our everyday lives. It's..."

It's getting late. Let's leave them alone together.

EVEN FURTHER TRAVELS OF THE BAIERS

by Kitty and Bob Baier

Queenstown, on Lake Wakatipu, is a tourist mecca. "The Ridge Resort", our third time-share ex- change had great skylight windows overlooking the lake.

While in the area we witnessed bungy jumping and jet boating (but decided a visit to Arrowtown was more our speed). We did ride the gondola, ate lunch in the restaurant on top of the mountain, and viewed the film. ("A Kiwi Adventure" should not be missed!)

We rode a hovercraft on Lake Wanaka and learned that rental car insurance does not cover transversing the shingle road back to Queenstown.

The tour companies would have you believe that driving to Milford Sound is a rigorous trip. Except for the narrow Homer Tunnel, it was a piece of cake!

"The Lady Bowen," one of the smaller red boats to sail the fiord, was able to maneuver close to shore, up under waterfalls and near the rocks where fur seals were sunning. We even saw one lonely penguin.

The day we drove to Milford Sound we carried the Thomas's Bed and Breakfast Book, our pj's and toothbrushes in case we elected to stay over and try fishing Lake TeAnau. It was windy, however, and the water was rough so we headed back same day and were "home" for dinner.

The roads on both islands were excellent and, except for large cities, the traffic was light. We appreciated our rented 4-door Toyota sedan which we named "Lefty Corona" (to remind ourselves to keep to the left side of the highway). The automatic shift was handy when traveling roads that were quite steep in places.

We had considered a campervan. We saw quite a few of those on South Island. People we spoke to who were driving campers seemed to enjoy them, but they are a little awkward to maneuver. Because of cool spring nights, we would have needed lots of extra blankets for camping out.

We did our own cooking in the condominiums so cannot comment on dining out in fine restaurants. There are many "dairies" that sell takeaway foods, so lunches were inexpensive. Cobb and Co Restaurants, a chain, were reasonable. What Americans call "appetizers" are Listed as "entrees" on NZ menus, while our "entrees" are considered "main meals,"

If someone invites you for "tea" it could be anything from a cup of ________to a full dinner (as in "we bought some prawns for tea".)

A few words about groceries: There's a good breakfast cereal called "Hubbard's Fruitful Porridge." Crackers and cookies seemed "floury" (as they do in Canada). Green peppers are called "capsicum", sweet potatoes are "kumara" and rutabagas are called 'Swedes."

The bacon is round shoulder meat that cannot be fried crisp. Beetroot shows up on hamburgers. All the orange roughy seems to be shipped out of the country, as is most of the prime NZ beef. Because there are deer farms, one may purchase venison at the butcher shops, but if you want to eat trout you must catch it yourself!

We departed from Queenstown a day ahead of schedule to allow time to visit Dunedin. Took a self-guided walking tour but again, a one-day visit was too brief.

Spent our last night at the home of Ken and June McAuley in Oamaru. We enjoyed meeting this delightful couple and sharing a delicious dinner.

We stopped at "The Tin Shed" at Rangitata to shop for handknit sweaters. No GST is charged if the merchandise is shipped out of the country, but postage is expensive.

Back in Christchurch we contacted Hauraki Meadows Car Rental to return the Toyota. Good people to do business with.

The new Antarctica Exhibit near the airport is an interesing place to spend spare time while waiting for a flight out of Christchurch.

Decided not to try to sleep on the 12-hour Auckland to LAX trip. Claimed an aisle seat, read a good novel, ate two meals, watched two movies and stopped worrying about shuteye.

Our house sitters had taken good care, so home looked great!

We kept a few NZ dollars as "seed" for a trip. Next time we must see the Northland, Bay of Islands, Coromandel Peninsula and the west coast of South Island. Can't wait to go back!

We were impressed by many things:

(1) the intrinsic beauty of New Zealand

(2) the friendly, warm, helpful people

(3) environmental awareness! It IS a land that's CLEAN, GREEN and WONDERFUL!

Kia Ora!

RARE KAKAPO DIES FOR LOVE - NZPA

The kakapo became an even more endangered parrot this week when a male named Pegasus died for love in a fight.

Pegasus, one of the last 60 kakapo alive, weighed in at 2.76kg. His alleged killer was Rob, who (unfortunately for Pegasus) is the biggest and heaviest kakapo in the world, tipping the scales at 3.7kg.

The evidence points to it being a scrap about love, stuff of Elizabethan tragedy and soap opera.

The Conservation Department said the body was found in a "track-and-bowl system"--parrot earthworks used for courtship, and the little piece of Little Barrier Island where the ill-fated Pegasus had hoped to attract his females.

But along came Rob.

When found by department staff, Pegasus had scratches to the head, neck and feet. Demonstrating the wildfowl equivalent of the smoking gun, so had Rob, but he was in good health. Rob has now taken over the track- and-bowl system for his own use--motive established.

Competition for females on Little Barrier, one of three main kakapo habitats, is evidently fierce. At last count there were between eight and 14 male birds, but only three to seven females.

Director of protected species Janet Owen said the death was a "natural tragedy". Although kakapo were observed fighting early this century, it was the first time they have been known to fight to the death.

Note: the above was sent to us by Rebecca Dennett who writes as follows:

I'm sending an article that Don Merton sent me. It's rather sad. Pegasus was the father of the chicks that survived the year I was there. I was on Little Barrier Island when they found the nests. Two male chicks survived.

Last year three female chicks were found on Codfish Island, but only one survived. Her name is Hoki" which means "to return." She's really beautiful.

Two nests have been found this year so far, but that's all I've heard.

Don Merton is coming here the first part of August. He will be the key speaker at a convention, and I'm hosting him. I'm so excited!

The Ambassador from New Zealand and Consul- General came here, and I was asked to give a speech about Kakapo Rescue, the kakapo, and how I feel about New Zealand. People told me there were tears in the Ambassador's eyes and he hugged and kissed me.

I was told by the Maoris that I'm an Amaorican (Maori-American) because of my love for their country and my work for the kakapo.They gave me the name "Kakapo" as my Maori name. What an honor!

Kakapo Rescue is now an official non-profit organization, so we're happy and relieved. We were recently able to send US$1000 to New Zealand for the kakapo. That's not all we've sent, but it's the largest amount we've been able to send at one time.

We're now selling T-shirts, besides the prints, and we're crocheting parrots for decorations, and bird potholders, and anything else we can think of.

(Rebecca Dennett, 4271 So.1350 East, Salt Lake City UT 84124).

THE GREAT LODGES--DELIGHTS OF VACATIONING IN STYLE

Travelers who want to experience New Zealand in first-class style will find their dreams taking shape in a new guide to the country's exclusive retreats and sporting lodges.

The illustrated guide to 23 luxurious lodges can be the basis for a Grand Tour of New Zealand's lush, green North, South, and Stewart Islands.

Settings range from the Bay of Islands, once a wild and wooly whaling port and now one of the Southern Hemisphere's more tranquil, top game-fishing centers, to well-stocked trout-fishing holes around lake Rotorua and Lake Taupo, an elegant estate winery near Auckland and birdwatching wildernesses near the Fox Glacier and Half Moon Bay. The lodges have established themselves as firm favorites with international visitors; all are run by friendly, knowledgeable hosts, and have gourmet kitchens.

"Paradise", the guide quotes, "was not lost, just temporarily mislaid" - until now.

Copies of New Zealand In Style , with location maps and booking information, are available through the New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd., Ste 300, Santa Monica CA 90401. PH: (310) 395-7480 OR (800) 388-5494.

COROMANDEL ADVENTURES

by Sharon Lawler

I took four of Doug Johansen's (Kiwi Dundee) Scenic Treks and Tours on the Coromandel Peninsula. One was a half-day spent visiting an old goldmine, Broken Hill. The hike there goes through a variety of plant life and Doug's commentary is informative and really amusing. What a fun way to learn history and biology!

After an excellent picnic served by a stream under some 15-foot tall fern trees, we commenced a four- hour wilderness trek. What a wonderful hike! We first crossed through farmland planted with corn and populated with a herd of curious cattle. We then entered semi-tropical forestland that was so thick and pristine I could imagine I was in South America and that monkeys would appear in the trees.

We climbed over rivers using rocks as a bridge; we brushed vines out of our faces; we grabbed exposed tree roots to help climb small hills. After our hike we were rewarded with a wonderful wine and hors d'oeuvre party at the site of Doug and Sharon Johansens new home. They have a wonderful view.

That night I took a tour that began at 9 PM. We again went to a goldmine, but this time the glowworms were visible outside--not just inside the goldmine as on the morning tour. The night sky was incredible. Doug explained the various star formations. There is no pollution in the sky of the Southern Hemisphere so you can imagine how intensely bright the stars are. Also, on the night tour certain nocturnal animals were visible in the streams-- eels and trout.

The next morning Sharon took me with another woman on a mini-bus tour to the Hot Water Beach. You dig a hole in the sand near the ocean water. Hot water from underground springs seeps up and mixes with sand. Laying with your back being massaged by that hot sand and water, and listening to the waves crash is the definition of relaxation. You have to be careful as some of the water is scalding.

We then went to Cathedral Cove and walked down to the beach. This cove has wonderful rock formations. I really felt as if I were in a cathedral.

We headed back to Pauanui and stopped at a favorite tearoom of Sharon's. It is called Colenso Orchard and is in Whenuakite. It's owned by Ruth and Andy Pettit. Ruth does some catering for Doug's and Sharon's tours. The tearoom has a wonderful English garden in the front. The pumpkin soup and scones are great.

I really would recommend the goldmine and wilderness tours as Doug knows the trails. I doubt if one could find the trails without a guide. The Wilderness Tour is really an experience. There are all-day wilderness tours also. The mini-bus tour was fine but if you have other transport you don't need a tour.

I stayed at the Pauanui Pacific Holidays Bed and Breakfast. The rooms are more like motel rooms, with private bathrooms and TV in each room. Excellent location for anyone who likes to walk or run on the beach. Breakfast was good, especially the bacon and eggs. They own a pig farm, so no wonder!

There is a ferry boat that will take one to Tairua where there are other restaurants. The ride is 15 minutes and is enjoyable, especially at night under that New Zealand sky carpeted with stars. The ferry is owned by Robert. a very nice Dutchman who moved to NZ six years ago. The Pacific Holidays is 5 minutes walk from the ferry. Also the owners of the motel Kevin (his wife is Kay) give tours around the entire Peninsula in his 4-wheel drive.

There are flights on Air Coromandel from Auckland Airport to Pauanui and other towns on the Peninsula.

The rate I paid at the Pacific Holidays was NZ$65. There is a pool there, jacuzzi and sauna, so there might be cheaper places to stay in Tairua and one could then take the ferry over to Pauanui in order to join one of Doug's tours. There is bus service from Auckland and Rotorua to the Peninsula. Depending on where one is going, it takes 1 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours.

The view from Mt. Paku in Tairua is breathtaking. (If one is in Pauanui take the ferry over and have a nice hike). You see the ocean and outlying islands on one side, the Tairua Harbor on the other. Definitely worth the trip. That was included on the minibus tour.

A dining tip: I splurged one night and ate at the Puka Park Lixlge. Sharon recommended the Iamb rib roast and said it is the best lamb she's ever had. I took her advice. That lamb was like butter and wonderful.

On another weekend I took a fun all-day tour up the west coast of the Coromandel Peninsula. I really love the township of Coromandel. There are a lot of potters living in that area. Bricknell Potters operates its own railroad and small open-air train up to where the clay is dug out It also takes sightseeing passengers and is lots of fun. I recommend it. The one-day tour was through a company called "Come and See Tours". It was in a mini- van, and left Auckland at 9 AM and returned at 7 PM. There were only three of us tourists. They are one of the few companies to run daily tours to the Coromandel. It was very leisurely and informal. It cost NZ$80, and I recommend it. Brochures are at hotels and tourist offices. (For info, on Doug Johansen's Scenic Treks and Tours, write to P0 Box 76, Pauanui Beach NZ. Or tel. (0843)48- 731 or 48-859. Fax (0843)47-138.

WORLD GETS WARMER BUT NZ STAYS COOL NZPA, Wellington (Feb. 11, 1993)

New Zealanders may have shivered this summer but the world is still getting hotter.

Temperatures in 1992 continued the general global warming trend that has prevailed since the 1970's, according to the atmospheric division of the National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research.

The global average surface temperature last year was nearly 0.2 deg C cooler than 1991, but 0.19 deg C warmer than the 1951-1980 climatology reports, said the institute spokesman, Dr. Jim Salinger.

'The main reasons for the global cooling in 1992 were probably the combined effect of the volcanic eruption of Pinatubo in the Philippines in June 1991, and the weakening of the El Nino warm phase in the eastern tropical Pacific."

Last year was the sixth warmest year in the region over a 140-year period--although not in New Zealand, where it was the coldest year since 1945, Dr. Salinger said. It was 0.8 deg C below the 1951-1980 average and 0.7 deg C below 1991.

"The global coolness was most marked between July and November 1992 and there are now indications of renewed warming.

'Temporary warmings and coolings resulting from El Nino events, major volcanic eruptions and changes in winds and ocean currents occur from time to time.

"They will be superimposed on the long-term warming trends anticipated as a result of the increasing greenhouse effect," he said.

WHO SAID IT COSTS A LOT OF MONEY

FOR ACCOMMODATIONS IN CHRISTCHURCH?

Inexpensive and friendly accommodations for everyone are available at the YMCA, Christchurch. Our centrally located hostel is 5 minutes walk from the centre of the city yet surrounded by the tranquility of the Botanic Gardens and the historic but active Arts Centre. A variety of restaurants are located in the immediate area.

We offer a complete range of accommodation. Dormitories, singles, twins, doubles, family rooms, and small apartments and rooms with or without facilities. Our dining room caters for inexpensive and nourishing meals

The hostel has a self service laundry, comfortable lounges, conference rooms, and access to the "Y" recreation facilities--squash courts, aerobics, climbing wall, sauna, jogging, cafe, etc.

A single room costs about US$50 per week (2 week minimum stay). Membership not required.

YMCA, 12 Hereford St., Christchurch NZ. Tel. (03) 650- 502. Fax (03) 651-386.

RARE, ONCE-IN-A-WORLD BIRDS FOUND IN KAPITI ISLAND NATURE PARK

Kapiti Island, a birdwatchers' paradise and one of New Zealand's most protected wildlife sanctuaries less than an hour's drive from Wellington, the nation's capital, is now receiving visitors as part of a new, eco-tourism program.

Nature lovers, who must reserve ahead for the three-mile boat ride, are seeing birds found nowhere else in New Zealand--or the world. They include shy, hen- sized, spotted Kiwis and the rare and colorful Takahe, another flightless bird which was thought to have been extinct until a few survivors were found in a remote, wilderness valley 50 years ago.

Other birds found on Kapiti are a Who's Who of New Zealand's endangered species. They are part of a distinctive wildlife heritage that has evolved over millions of years in a comparatively sheltered environment but have become threatened by introduced, four-Legged predators, such as cats and ship's rats.

While Kapiti Island has been a nature park since 1897, much of the water around the island also became a formal marine park two years ago. It is home to seals, sponges, sub-tropical fish, rock lobster, and a rare, 200- year-old black coral tree. Dolphins and migrating whales are also seen around the island.

Visitors on one-day round-trips to the island can fish in unprotected waters and have the catch cooked for lunch. Tours are conducted by Maoris, whose ancestors once fought fierce tribal wars over the island long before the arrival of European explorers, and by the ancestors of whalers and traders.

Kapiti tours leave each day from Paraparaumu Beach, about 30 miles north of Wellington.

For further information contact: New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd., Ste #300, Santa Monica CA 90401. Ph. (310) 395-7480 OR (800) 388-5494.

NORTH ISLAND WANDERINGS

- By Judy Miller

By the time my flight landed in Christchurch, over five hours late, I was ready to stop riding on airplanes for a while. I'd left Portland, Oregon, over 27 hours earlier in the middle of the worst snowstorm in recent memory, sat through a two hour delay in Los Angeles, my nonstop Los Angeles to Auckland flight had been re-routed to Apia, Samoa, where we were held on the plane for three hours while our cabin crew negotiated a labor dispute, and then, of course, I missed my connection out of Auckland--but finally I was back in New Zealand. A hassle, heck yes. ...worth it? YOU BETTER BELIEVE IT!

Tauranga and the Coromandel Peninsula

It took me seven trips but finally I made it to the Bay of Plenty and north to the Coromandel. It was worth the wait. After two weeks on the South Island I flew back to Auckland where my friend Kim who lives in Tauranga picked me up at the airport and we drove to Matamata where we spent two days before going on over the Kaimai Range into Tauranga. Once again I had the use of the "lean green driving machines", a little Toyota station wagon that although definitely not beautiful is frightfully functional—and headed north on Highway 2 to Waihi. This stretch of highway 2 is lined with farms and orchards and the opportunities to stop and purchase fresh fruit and produce abound. There are also several vineyards. At Waihi I changed to route 25 for the trip up the east coast of the Coromandel. I was charmed.

None of the beaches I have seen in Hawaii, Southern California or Florida compare with what I saw on this approximately 120 kilo. stretch of New Zealand

coastline. Although this Is a favorite holiday destination for Kiwi's, it was early March and general holidays were long over so the beaches were virtually deserted in spite of the warm (70-75 deg. F) temperatures.

I stopped briefly in Pauanui, home base for Doug Johansens Scenic Adventure Treks and Tours. Doug, known as "Kiwi Dundee", attended one of our Kiwiphile parties about three years ago. Unfortunately he was out of town at the time of my visit, so I was not able to take one of his tours. So--on north.

As it was early evening when I arrived at Whitianga I had every intention of spending the night there and traveling on to the west side of the peninsula the next day. Although there were many places I could have stayed, something inside kept saying, "go on to Coromandel". I had been told at the Pauanui Information Center to definitely cross the peninsula over route 309 so I backtracked to where it joins route 25 and started west.

I was immediately surrounded by native New Zealand bush, and the road soon became barely more than an unpaved track. I drove into the setting sun, stopped to pick up a hitchhiker (something I would do in no other country on the planet), and continued on for another half hour through a wild, beautiful, enchanting landscape. I dropped off my passenger, a young lady from New Jersey, at the junction and continued a few kilometers north to Coromandel township where I pulled into a motor camp to inquire about accommodation. Since the only space left was in one of the bunkrooms, I decided to look for something else.

Continuing around the bay I found a wonderful little six-unit motel overlooking the harbor. Harborview Motel, Long Bay Road, Coromandel. AU units sleep 5-6, have full kitchens and small verandahs. Tariff is $60 single, $75 double, $15 for each extra adult. I spent two nights and was reluctant to leave even then. Evenings on the verandah with a beautiful sunset and a glass of wine can spoil you for the real world.

I didn't attempt the trip to the top of the peninsula, but did go as far as Kennedys Bay over Kennedys Bay Road. From the top of the pass you have breathtaking views of both sides of the peninsula. I suggest stopping often as the road is particularly narrow and winding and you need to watch it carefully Instead of enjoying the scenery.

There is a wide range of activities available in this historic and beautiful part of New Zealand. Check in at one of the Tourist Information Offices and they will put you on to the activity of your choice.

My return trip was along the west side of the peninsula, and it is so vastly different from the east side that you might be in a different country. However, it Is no less beautiful. The road clings to the edge of the ocean and at almost every curve you come upon another small bay with its rocky beach lapped by the waters of the Firth of Thames. There are also some small swimming beaches. Pohutukawa trees line the road and it must be truly spectacular during December and January when

they are in full bloom. Again, stop and enjoy the views as the road, although sealed, is narrow and winding.

Just a few kilometers southeast of Paeroa is the Karangahake Gorge Historic Walkway. Since I had a couple of extra hours before starting back toward Tauranga, I decided to have a stop and look around. The carpark Is on the west end of an old railway formation which until 1979 ran between Waihi and Paeroa. The walkway follows part of this formation and passes several important historical features associated with the Karangahake gold fields. Not being a real hiker, I decided to at least walk a portion of this walkway and did fine for the first fifteen minutes.

I walked around some of the remaining ruins before I crossed over the river via a pedestrian bridge and found myself at the entrance of a 1300 meter long brick- lined tunnel. As far as I could see, small, dim yellow bulbs stretched to a small spot of light at the far end. It took me a couple of tries (all I could think was no one knows where I am, and what if there is an earthquake or landslide and I am trapped)--but I finally made myself walk the entire length of the tunnel--the only sounds the drip of water seeping through aged bricks and my feet shuffling along the uneven dirt rail bed. A small personal triumph. (Will be continued)

LETTER BOX

I find myself in the position of making an editorial comment regarding the letter from Mike Giannone to Richard Croft in a recent issue of K.F. As you know, I wholeheartedly share Mike and Linda's "love affair" with New Zealand and probably for the same reasons: the simplicity, the openness of the people, the unspoiled landscape, the remoteness and so much more.

I do take exception though to his put down of those folk, "bussies", who choose to see New Zealand on a bus tour. Again, I agree this is not how I could choose to see the country, but there are those who for many reasons decide that is what they wish to do. Granted, they miss many of the beautiful experiences that those of us who are fortunate enough to go on our own enjoy, but they are there nevertheless and seeing "1%" and the "top ten" in NZ Is better than not being there at all.

There now, I feel better. I also share Mike's reluctance to write about NZ for fear that somehow too many people will discover that it is now only a 12-hr. nonstop trip from L.A. I want to keep it all for myself with those special memories of that first trip in 1986. 1 know you will understand the feeling.

Judy Miller, Oregon

Your March 93 issue is to hand and is full of Interest as always.

Enjoyed the further installment of the Baler's travels (they stayed with us--arranged through Mike McClelland.

Enclosed are copies of a free brochure some of us home hosts have put together on some 37 host B&B properties in and around Auckland.

Am not sure how best to make it available to your readers other than by writing to me for a copy. John Rose,Pineapple Cottage, 27 Shipherds Ave., Epsom, Auckland NZ. Ph. (09) 630 3542.

* First, I would like to thank you for the little Informative note about Southern Cross Tours in your last issue. That was a very nice and thoughtful thing to do.

I am writing to you at this time to advise you that we will be moving on June 1st Into a new location. Our phone numbers will remain the same, but our new address will be:

Southern Cross Tours, Inc., 206 Indiana, Ste 8-3, Coeur d'Alene, ID 83814.

In addition, I wanted to let you know that New Zealand Central Reservations is having another wonderful Spring Garden & Best Sights Tour again for 1993. The tour will be escorted by Dr. Ellen T. Henke, noted Botanist & TV personality, and will be offering an extension into Australia this year. We have lovely brochures and are booking the tour if anyone would like information on the hip. It will be departing October 26 and return November 12 (NZ only). Please call us (Southern Cross Tours, Inc.) at (800) 793-2999 for brochure and details.

We will be looking forwatd to receiving another one of your wonderful newsletters. My co-worker Mike Griffiths will be returning from NZ on May 3rd. He will hopefully have lots to talk about and perhaps write to you about... Suzi Beacham. (Ed.--YES, YES, YES, please send an article by Mike Griffiths).

* Our WZT van has just pulled out of the yard. with Robert and Anne, our two senior leaders taking the small April tour down the West Coast, thus ending the seventh NEW ZEALAND TRAVELER season for me, as I remain at home to do office and administrative work.

It is a benign and lovely autumn here in Nelson, NZ, with cool nights and crystal clear sunny days with temps in the high 60's. Many flowers ate still blooming and my Impatiens have so far survived frosts In the nearby open fields. Being in among the trees and next to the river gives Tealcot a large measure of protection and often gets us to the end of May without frost, but It's very doubtful that we'll be so lucky this year. It has been a cool summer and It Is clear that Pinatubo and El Nino has affected our weather strongly for the second year in a row. It will be another cold winter here and I'm hot too unhappy at the thought of traveling to the late spring In Vermont in late May. Despite all,, living here continues to be a very lovely experience and I could never ever really leave

I am fit and well despite a difficult work season--and I still take all the back-packing trips on the tours and manage at least one 20-mile with a 60-pound pack day, each month, starting at about 0730 AM and hiking until 2 PM without stopping. It's a tour de force that is enjoyable and tells me that I am not yet fading. Next year, maybe! -- Alan Riegelman, Tealcot, Teal Valley RD 1, Nelson NZ.

BITS AND BITES

* Dolphin Quest, 3-hr. exploration of the outer reaches of Mercury Bay, Coromandel Peninsula, includes swimming with the dolphins at their invitation. Elizabeth & Rod, Whitianga Information Centre, (07)866-5555. Mercury Bay Seafaris

* 13-night "Rhododendron Rhapsody" garden tour (Oct. 20-Nov. 2) features Dunedin's Rhododendron Week, the Taranaki Rhododendron Festival, the Floral Festival Extravaganza, Cross Hills Gardens, Tupare, Pukeiti Rhododendron Trust, Tikitere Rhododendron Gardens and private garden visits. LandMark Travel, 125 Vincent St., Auckland 1, NZ--ph. 649-309-3350---or JSA Network Marketing, 70A Greenwich Ave., New York NY 10011--ph. or fax 212/924-0882.

* There are plenty of wilderness trout fishing facilities In the Auckland/Hamilton area with both Brown and Rainbow abundant. Write to Auckland/ Waikato Fish & Game Council, RD 9, Hamilton NZ. Tel. (071)491-666. FAX (071)491 -648.