Volume VI, No. 4

JUNE 1994

(-phile: {Greek--philos, loving} meaning one who loves, likes, or is favorably disposed to. Webster)

ROUTEBURN WINTER CLASSIC

For those who dream of a hearty, hot meal waiting for them at the end of a day on an alpine hiking trail, New Zealand's spectacular Routeburn Walk has some new, home-style appeal.

The Routeburn Winter Classic is a two- and three-day guided walk that allows visitors to experience the wilderness of rugged mountains and beech forests away from the tourists and sandflies of summer. Hikers can set out each day from their base in a cozy Department of Conservation cabin, in the valley below the customary snowline, and return in the evening for candle-lit dinners and down-covered beds.

Located five miles down the 26-mile track, the heated cabin allows hikers to explore the wilderness and enjoy top-of-the-world scenery without having to lug along heavy backpacks--or worry about what's for lunch. The walk threads its way through the Mount Aspiring and Fiordland national parks, both United Nations World Heritage reserves, in the heart of one of the South Island's best-known trekking regions.

The Routeburn Winter Classic, operated by the Great Walk Way Ltd., is the first outdoors venture licensed by the New Zealand government to show the mountains at their best during the frosty, sparkling sunny days of the May-November season. Detailed information is available from the New Zealand Tourism Board (800-388-5494). Cost of an all-inclusive two-day trip, beginning in Queenstown, is about US$230. Group discounts are available.

New Zealand Tourism Board

501 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite #300

Santa Monica CA 90401

(310) 395-7480 or (800) 388-5494.

LUNCH ON THE RANGE

A gourmet luch served on top of the rugged Kaimai Range on the North Island may seem a tall order. But this summer, visitor to the Bay of Plenty town of Katikati will be able to try an exhilarating new alfresco experience.

To walk Thompsons track from Katikati to the top of the nearby Kaimai Range can take several hours; a helicopter can take visitors to a grassy plateau for lunch in just minutes.

On landing, the chef on board sets out a table, complete with umbrella and chairs, and then sets it up for a silver service, three-course cold meal with champagne.

The encompassing view takes in the rich farmlands of the Waikato to the west and the Bay of Plenty coast and offshore islands to the east. Native forest surrounds the summit and stretches away far below.

Visitors can make the return journey by helicopter, or those with some stamina left might decide to hike or ride a sure-footed horse back down Thompsons Track.

The excursion leaves from Fantail Lodge, whose owner Harrie Geraerts initiated the idea with Marine Helicopters as an entertainment for guests. The flying picnic package costs NZ$500 to $600, depending on the food requested and the number of passengers. For more information contact Harrie Geraerts at Fantail Lodge in Katikati, Ph. (07) 549-1581. (From PACIFIC WAY)

FIRST IMPRESSIONS - By Mike Giannone

First impressions are important events, for places as well as people. Our first exposure to New Zealand was rather brief, but it set the stage for a more formal first impression a week later. Linda and I were on our way to Sydney for a telecommunications conference, and Air New Zealand had "thoughtfully" included a six-hour layover at Auckland before crossing the Tasman Sea. Sitting in the airport lounge like we had done in Los Angeles and Honolulu did not particularly appeal to me, so I decided to pass the time by renting a car for a quick spin around the City of Sails. Linda, who had just spent 26 hours in three planes and was still 1500 miles from the prospect of a shower, was not coherent enough to argue and allowed me to drag her along to the Customs Officer. Although he lifted an eyebrow to my answer to "How long are you staying?", ("Oh, about four hours!"), he waved us through and I set off for a rental agency.

Of course since we had not yet experienced New Zealand (we were planning a vacation here on the way back from the conference), I was fairly annoyed when

there wasn't a car to be had in the entire airport. It would not be until later that I would become used to a land which does not provide much priority for motor vehicle- related activities (e.g. universally available paved roads. TWO lane bridges, adequate supply of rental vehicles at international airports, etc.). Of course this was also 6:30 AM on a SATURDAY morning, and you quickly learn not to try anything that requires out-of-the-ordinary business on this day of the week (I won't mention Sundays!). Linda kept drifting off in search of something soft and comfortable, but I was determined to leave the airport property, and dragged her back . . . I had spied the taxi park.

Growing up in the New York-New Jersey Metropolitan area, you learn at a tender age to have a healthy disdain for cabs at airports. Granted, the hacks are a way of life in the Big Apple. but at an airport? No way! This is the hunting grounds for the "tourist", looking for a "$200 Tour to Downtown". However, I had heard some nice things about New Zealand and was about to throw caution to the winds and live dangerously. Besides, it was the last option left! Linda, of course, thought I was out of my mind, but was much too weak to put up a struggle.

As we approached the cab, the driver leapt out of the "passenger" side and with a cheery "G'day! My name's Dave, and I'd be happy to serve you", opened the doors for our entry. Dave politely waited a bit, and then inquired as to our destination. Since we weren't actually due here for a week, I hadn't studied up on my maps and drew a blank. Linda mumbled something about getting outside in the fresh air (it was a sunny, mild, March morning), so I asked if there was a park nearby that we could go to. Without hesitation he suggested "One- Tree Hill" and pulled away from the terminal.

So here we were in New Zealand! Leaving the airport, we were surprised by the lush green countryside for so late in the season. And this is hardly a farming area. Dave headed for the city through light traffic and our destination soon became apparent. Auckland is liberally sprinkled with extinct volcanic cones, but this hill is very recognizable with the single huge tree and obelisk clearly outlined against the sky above the residential rooftops of south Auckland. The cab entered the domain and we asked Dave to stop at the bottom near the Auckland Observatory (which boasts a 500mm Zeiss tele- scope). When he said the fare was NZ$10. I was honestly shocked and asked him to repeat it. At the then- current rate of exchange, this 15 minute ride from the airport was only US$4.50! I told him to keep the change from a twenty and received my second surprise: he graciously declined the tip, saying it was not necessary. We had read that tipping was not customary within New Zealand, but had not quite believed it. I then asked Dave how to get in touch with the taxi company when we were ready to return, and he said, "Not to worry. Just tell me when you want to go back and I'll be there, waiting.".. . sure!

Instead of describing our meandering walk up the hill, maybe some background is in order.. . Of the many pa-sculptured volcanic cones in and around Auckland, this extensively fortified site is perhaps the most impressive. Built as the pa Maungakiekie ("mountain where kiekie grows abundantly") during the seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, its massive earthworks could house 4000 defenders and are today among the largest still surviving. Clearly to be seen are the terraces of the satellite pa which once surrounded the main site, each then fortified with ditches, earth ramparts, and wooden palisades.

Large cultivations surrounded the whole complex to provide food for its inhabitants and to stock the pa (kumara pits). Final architect of the pa was the relentless Tamaki, who dominated the district in the 1700's until defeated by the Kaipara tribe of Ngati Whatua, whose losses in these wars with Tamaki were so great that they are said to have avoided conflict with other tribes for a generation to enable their children to grow into warriors. By the early 1800's, successive invasions had shown the area to be untenable and so it came to be virtually deserted. When Auckland was founded in 1840, One Tree Hill's desolate earthworks were littered with pipi shells and the bones of its last defenders.

The summit itself was known as TeTotara-i-ahua, a reference to a single towering totara tree which once grew there and was revered as commemorating the birth of an important ancestor. Shortly after settlers arrived, vandals cut down the sacred tree and to make amends, Sir John Logan Campbell planted the present rats pine. A road now leads to the summit where there are superb views over the twin harbors (Manukau and Stanley Bay), the city, Rangitoto Island in the Hauraki Gulf, and the trees of Cornwall Park. Occasionally Great and Little Barrier Islands and even the outline of the Coromandel Peninsula may be seen in the distance. Sheep graze on the hill's grassed slopes and present the extraordinary spectacle of a farm in the heart of the country's largest metropolis. On the very tip is Sir John's grave and a towering 21 meter obelisk to honor his admiration for the Maori people.

Although this was still early on a Saturday, it appeared as if the entire population of Auckland was participating in a marathon on One Tree's slopes. We eventually learned that this was just "normal" for the large group of Kiwis who enjoy running. Although our pace was considerably slower, Linda and I enjoyed the walk to the top, avoiding the "raisins" on the grassy paths, took in the great views, and the stroll back down blessed by warm sunshine and light sea breezes. Birds were twittering in the trees and motor vehicle traffic was almost non-existent. What a setting! Linda had totally recovered from the side effects of traveling and was really enjoying herself in the fresh air and greenery. This New Zealand seemed to be a pretty good place and I was starting to feel sorry that the vacation part of our trip was still a week away. The final touch was when we approached the observatory and found Dave (and his taxi) reading a newspaper and patiently waiting for our arrival, just as he had promised! He drove

PASSENGER COMFORT KITS

us back to the airport taking a few short detours, providing some light running commentary on several subjects, and efficiently deposfted us by the entrance door, once again refusing anything over the stated fare.

We re-boarded our flight in a daze. Is this what we could expect, or were we Just lucky? While I dont doubt that there were many fortunate circumstances at play here, something was telling me that this wasn't too far off the norm at any time. As we headed off across the Tasman Sea and left the Manukau Heads behind us, we could feel the magnetic draw of Aotearoa beginning to work on our souls. Only a few hours had passed, but Linda and I were definitely hooked, and that process continues to this day, a decade and several return visits later.

WAKAPAI RIVER TRIP

The Wanganul River was, until recent times, the main route into New Zealand's North Island interior. Used initially by the Maori and subsequently by European settlers, it has a fascinating history of wars, steamboat navigation, a floating houseboat, waterdriven flour mills, abandoned homes and farms, and the bridge to Nowhere.

In 1905 12,000 people stayed at Pipiriki House when the Wanganui River was recognized as one of the world's outstanding tourist routes and was promoted world-wide as the "Rhine of New Zealand."

The river rapids and steep papa bluffs, waterfalls and unbroken forest are of such distinctive scenic quality that a National Park has been formed around the river.

WAKAPAI RIVER TRIP . There is a 5 day/4 night package by riverboat down the Wanganui River, Taumarunui to Wanganui. Trips running in November, January, February and March. Adults: NZ$550. Children under 14: 5350. For information, brochures and bookings contact W. G. Oliver, R.D. 6, Raetihi. Phone/fax (06) 385 4443.

QUEEN CHARLOTTE WALKWAY

(from N.Z. Herald)

The picturesque Queen Charlotte Walkway in the South Island's Marlborough Sounds is being upgraded to provide outdoor tourists with a less roller-coaster tramp. Department of Conservation staff are putting in new bridges and improving the drainage on the 40-mile walkway. The area from historic Ship Cove through Resolution Bay to Endeavour Inlet is also being rebenched, meaning the surface of the track will be smoother and less stoney.

Used as a bridle track to help communication between farmers in the 1920's, virtually no farms are there now. Most of the land has reverted to native bush and the walk offers magnificent views of Kenepuru Sound and Queen Charlotte Sound. D.O.C. staff expect most of the work to be finished by July.

Air New Zealand has introduced new comfort kits that are clean, green, and a bit different from the norm. The kits--which are reusable and recyclable--have been very well received since they were introduced as giveaways for First Class and Business Class passengers.

They contain a wooden toothbrush and a 1Oml tube of toothpaste contained in an unbleached drawstring calico bag; calico eyeshades; a wooden razor with shaving creme sachet; unbleached cotton socks; a wooden massage roller to soothe sore neck muscles on long journeys; and in the First Class kit, a tube of dehydration gel. This gel is made in New Zealand from pure spring water drawn from an island in the Hauraki Gulf.

The information card gives helpful tips on the kit items and also includes a section asking for passenger response.

The kit is contained in an unbleached ramie wash bag which can be used as an exfoliant, just like a loofa sponge in the shower orbath.

SOUTH ISLAND BY VAN--part 2 - by Judy Miller

The main pub in Naseby is blue. No, I don't mean blue, I mean BLUE. I can't remember the name, all I can remember is the color and if you have ever seen it, you know what I mean. It is blue! Since we were parting ways here with Jock, Mary, Darcy and Kaye, we decided a blue pub was the best way to do so, and we spent a pleasant hour taking our leave.

The farther west we traveled the warmer and windier it became. By the time we reached Clyde it was nearing dark, the wind was howling, and we were all ready to find a place to spend the night. Since Clyde consists of one main street, it was relatively easy to locate the accommodations and since our tastes ran to clean and cheap, we decided to check out the Dunstan House. It is a two-story stone building built to accommodate gold miners and travelers at the turn of the century and seemed to fill the bill for us. We sent Lynne and Robyn to check it out, and had nearly despaired of them ever returning when they reappeared with keys, and we soon had bags unloaded and stashed in upstairs rooms.

Although toilets and shower facilities were "down the hall", everything was immaculately clean and comfortable. It was late and if you have ever visited New Zealand you know that it can be darned hard to find a meal out in smaller places after about 6 p.m. So we settled on the small "milk bar" across the Street where we ordered burgers and chippies. We took them back to the hotel and enjoyed them in the deserted dining room.

The wind continued to howl during the night and it was still hot Doors banged, windows rattled and things went bump in the night, but finally I did get to sleep and woke to a peaceful and quiet morning. We made breakfast in the downstairs guest kitchen and ate again in the dining room.

It was a short drive into Queenstown, but since we made stops in Cromwell and Arrowtown, we didn't arrive until well after noon. We all had different things we wanted to do so made one of the local pubs our headquarters and went our separate ways. Although it was late summer the weather was poor and curtailed our activities greatly. Parapenting had to be postponed for a later time as did the Dart River jet boat trip, but Lynne and Robyn returned from river rafting wet, exhilarated, and ready to go again. I don't know if their enthusiasm was a result of their love of wet, cold and windy weather, or the abundance of tight young bodies in wet suits.

From Queenstown we traveled north over Cardrona Pass into Wanaka. I had heard varied reports of travel over the Cardrona from "don't do it, you will die, it is terrible and you should only try it if you truly hate your rental car" to "yes, it is not a super freeway but worth the extra time."It is definitely worth the extra time and effort.

After a short stop in Wanaka, we continued over the Haast Pass to Haast. When we arrived it was raining horizontally so we made a wild dash into the pub to avoid drowning on our way in. As we walked through the doors, all conversation ceased and all eyes were trained on us. Robyn and Lynne made their way to the bar and ordered for us and struck up a conversation with one of the locals. In typical Kiwi fashion we were soon invited to spend the night with one of the local fishermen. We were assured that we were perfectly safe, that he would prepare lobster stew, and he even had a f - - - - - washing machine should we care to do laundry.

Robyn quickly replied that just a regular washing machine would be o.k., but that we were quite anxious to be on our way up the coast. We withdrew from the bar and continued on our way.

We spent that night in Fox Township and the next morning continued up the coast to Franz Josef and Hokitika, and then on to Shantytown where we spent a couple of hours. We spent our last night together in Bealey, just east of Arthur's Pass. After getting settled into our rooms we made the short walk back up the hill to the pub for dinner and a visit with the bartender and waitress afterward. We lingered a long time and reminisced about this trip as well as past ones and made promises about future travels.

The next day we said goodbye in Christchurch. It took awhile as it is hard to leave good friends behind when you know it will be months and maybe years before you see them again. As the van pulled away, Cathy and I stood and waved and waved and then went inside to begin making plans for our next trip to New Zealand.

FAIRYTALE THRILLER (from North & South)

New Zealand film-makers Geoff Murphy, Roger Donaldson and Vincent Ward are now directing some big-budget movies in the United States. Jane Campion, the director of An Angel At My Table and The Piano , is the toast of international critics.

Most recently, reviewers at the 1993 film festivals in Cannes and Toronto praised Jack Be Nimble , the first full-length feature from 30- year-old Aucklander Garth Maxwell.

Maxwell was barely out of high school when he began to experiment with Super 8 film. He made several short films during the 1980s. Two of them won local and international awards.

Jack Be Nimble , which had its New Zealand premiere in November 1993, is a supernatural thriller or an updating of Hansel and Gretel.

HOME ON THE (N.Z. SHEEP) RANGE - by Dennis A. Cavagnaro

New Zealand is easily the friendliest country on earth. It's easy to meet Kiwis (the human variety, not the bird or the fruit) and enjoy their many kindnesses which remind us of an earlier, unhurried America.

Almost by chance we became members of a New Zealand family, an experience we will always treasure. For four beautiful late summer days (a hemisphere away it was America's winter), we enjoyed Alison and Max Naylor's warm hospitality on their 700-acre sheep station at Garston, midway between the popular tourist destinations of Queenstown and Te Anau on South Island.

Max, Alison and their three sons Philip. Tim and Andrew live in a lively modern ranch-style home crowning a rise, set back 300 yards from NZ Highway #6.

Our four days were pretty much occupied with Max and Alison's daily routines. In the course of things we were matter-of-factly introduced to the nearest Naylor relatives and neighbors. We came to know the pet lamb Betsy who roamed freely outside the home, much like a pet dog. We were happy to learn that the pet lamb is never sold or slaughtered.

Usually up and out before his guests awake, Max and his manager Warren Smith were hard at work, running 4500 of New Zealand's 60 million-or-more head of sheep. The sheepdop seemed almost human as they controlled the herds, moving them from grazing pasture to shearing sheds and to other pastures. We were fortunate to visit during the shearing, a terrifying but otherwise painless experience for the sheep.

While nothing is required of the guests, Bunny enjoyed helping Alison prepare the hearty New Zealand meals for the family and the itinerant but proud shearers. Bunny accompanied Alison on her rounds on shopping day at the nearby town of Lumsden. As Garston is so sparsely populated, the Naylors and their neighbors place their grocery orders by telephone and later pick them up from an unlocked box on the side of the highway.

Alison sets a delicious table featuring the traditional New Zealand dishes, generous in lamb, beef and seafood triumphantly followed by her Pavlova, a creative dessert for which Alison is justly famed. After dinner we found sipping mellow New Zealand wine and stimulating conversation with the Naylors at 10 PM facing

into the sun which was still setting over the Eyre Mountains, one of life's memorable pleasures.

A treat for the real fisherman among the Naylor guests is the Mataura River, a five minute walk from "Birch Hill." Described as the finest brown trout fishing stream In the world, the water Is crystal clear and deceptively deep. According to Max, if you think you are stepping into water you think is ankle deep, you will more likely find It comes to your knees. You fish the fish, not the stream, so it is a whole new experience in fly fishing. You find your fish and go after him but just as you can see the trout, so also he can see you. It tests the skill of the angler to see and not be seen. The rewards are great--two to three pounds is a common catch and four to eight pounds always a possibility.

Because of the challenge of the river, Max recommends a fishing guide for the first day out. The guide's daily fee is $60 which Includes transportation and fishing tackle if required. The limit is four trout daily and each must be over 12 Inches. The season extends from October to April, with probably November to February the best.

"Birch Hill" is well situated for tourists as It is near the popular goldrush-turned-resort center Queenstown. Queenstown Is on Lake Wakatipu, plied by the venerable steamboat the S.S. Earnslaw. The lake is fed by the twisting, whitewater Shotover River, popular for exciting jet boat rides. Above Coronet Peak is a prime skiing resort. Te Anau, an hour's drive west of "Birch Hill", is where the fit and adventurous Jump off on the 4-day Milford Track. The less energetic may bypass the walk and drive from TeAnau to the majestic, fiord-like Milford Sound through the long single-lane Homer Tunnel.

A new tourist attraction is the ancient steam- powered train the "Kingston Flyer." The old rails cross "Birch Hill." A few years ago Max was instrumental in reviving the train. The train, a reminder of England's fictional "Titchfield Thunderbolt", operates thrice daily, October thru May between Kingston and Fairlight a 25- minute trip.

The Naylors take in no more than 4 guests at a time. Guests enjoy two of the four bedrooms and a private bath. The Naylors will not take additional guests until the previous guests have departed. They prefer that arrangements and payment be made in advance of a visit because, according to Max, the guests "are more like friends if there is no exchange of money here." Current rates at "Birch Hill" are US$50 per person a day, fully Inclusive of all meals, morning and afternoon teas, doings. etc. Thirty dollars per day for children under 13 years. International money orders and drafts are appropriate.

The Naylors will meet their guests arriving at Garston by rail, bus or air. Their address is: Box 1, Garston, Southland, New Zealand. Replies to airmail letters to NZ take about 2 weeks.

For information on other NZ farm holidays, contact the NZ Tourism Board. 501 Santa Monica Blvd., Ste 300, Santa Monica CA 90401. Tel. (310)395-7480 or (800)388-5494.

Two NZ agencies which book farm holidays are:

Homestay, Ltd., P.O. Box 630, Rotorua, NZ and NZ Farm Holidays, Ltd., P.O. Box 1436, WellIngton, NZ.

The Queenstown-TeAnau area is popular with the US servicemen participating in OPERATION DEEP FREEZE, our ongoing Antarctic expedition based on the US Naval Facility at Christchurch International Airport, only a 6-hour drive away.

Additionally, active duty and retired US military "space available" passengers may take advantage of the regularly scheduled MAC flights between Hickam AFB, Hawaii, and RAAF Richmond just outside of Sydney, Australia, which stop over in Christchurch in both directions. There are many unscheduled US military flights as well serving Christchurch.

Our farm vacation was the highlight of our 3-week New Zealand holiday. It could become yours also.

NATURE & ECOLOGY EXPEDITIONS

In addition to the very successful walking tours presented by NEW ZEALAND TRAVELERS, Alan Riegelman, Director, has announced the start of a new adventure, the NEW ZEALAND NATURE & ECOLOGY EXPEDITIONS. These tours are slated to begin in February 1995.

NEW ZEALAND TRAVELERS, founded by Riegelman in 1986, has a staff of New Zealand citizens proud to show travelers their country. This includes Riegelman, an American who grew up In Vermont. He personally leads the initial portion of every tour and includes a welcome to his home, TEALCOT, a "magical" cottage a few miles north of Nelson on the South Island.

The nature and ecology tour removes you from the ordinary "tourist" beat. It provides intimate views of New Zealand for those people who love the earth and who desire to see a country that is widely acclaimed as one of the last, pristine bastions of superb natural beauty remain- ing on the earth.

The tours are not dry and academic designed for the professional naturalist, but do include aspects of agriculture, agronomy, aquaculture, silviculture, and viticulture. The expedition is "a cornucopia of earthly delights."

Each expedition is three weeks in length and virtually circumnavigates the South Island. No more than nine travelers ride in each of the two minibuses

Send for the NEW ZEALAND TRAVELERS NATURE & ECOLOGY EXPEDITIONS brochure.

Address: NEW ZEALAND TRAVELERS, P.O. Box 605, Shelburne VT 05482. 802-985-8865; FAX 802-985-8501.

VANILLA BISCUITS - A NZ recipe from Betty Croft

Cream together 4 oz. butter, 8 oz. sugar, and a few drops of vanilla. Add 1 egg, then mix in 8 oz. flour, pinch salt, 1 tsp baking powder and 2 oz. sultanas (raisins). Roll into balls and bake on greased trays or baking paper. Press with fork and bake 15-20 min. in 350 deg. oven.

WATERFRONT ARIAS HOLD 8000 IN

RAPT ADORATION (condensed from NZ Herald)

On a January Saturday evening in Auckland. crowded on to temporary stands, bobbing on boats moored in the Viaduct Basin. hanging from the spars of the Spirit of Adventure, or crammed on to free vantage points on nearby buildings, fans drank in the atmosphere at a concert by the nation's most acclaimed vocal export-- Dame Kiri Te Kanawa.

They ended one of the summer's hottest days in a picnic spirit, sipping wine or beer or enjoying strawberries and cream as Kiri, radiant in turquoise, aqua and indigo, caressed the evening air with her exquisite voice.

A delayed start provided a perfect piece of summer serendipity. As the diva began her selection with Baillero, one of Canteloube's most beautiful Songs of the Auvergne, the evening sun touched the top of the Ponsonby ridge in the west, silhouetting a single crane, the post office clock tower and the tower of St. Mary's Convent.

By the time the song had finished the sun had gone, the sky had deepened to a lustrous pearl and the stage lights seemed to have brightened at her arrival.

Dame Kiri's programme paid homage to the maritime atmosphere with a seamlessly stitched-together medley of Red Sails in the Sunset, the Rod Stewart hit Sailing and Calypso, John Denver's homage to the underwater explorer Jacques Yves Cousteau.

When her scheduled set finished with One Look from Andrew Lloyd Webber's Sunset Boulevard, the demands for an encore, accompanied by a chorus of blasts from boat horns, were immediate.

The response was a selection of the diva's signature tunes. When she closed with an unaccompanied rendition of Pokarekare Ana, the city--and the audience's breath with it--seemed to stop.

It was a magic moment in a night rich in magic.

DRIVER RENTALS

You hire the vehicle and we drive and personally guide you wherever you want to go--whenever you want to go - - to see whatever you want to see. Individuals, small groups, anyone!

We welcome enquiries from those who are looking at arranging travel within New Zealand for small parties that wish to maintain their independence, to see and do their own thing, and to be free of the "group" concept of tour coaches.

For those with special interests--farming, industry, recreation, sciences--we know exactly where to take you.

When booking, clients are asked to express their preferences in the way of accommodations - - motels, hotels, homestays, even farmstays--and these will be arranged for you.

Phone/fax Trevor Norton, - 07 3484 129 or Paul Bryan, 07 3493 444.

Trevor Norton

8 Miller Street

Rotorua NZ

Paul Bryan

59 Haupapa Street

Rotorua NZ

MUD, MUD, GLORIOUS MUD - from NZ Herald

All the hoopla surrounding the Academy Awards earned by The Piano prompts a Thames reader, recently returned from the United States, to relate a conversation overheard in a restaurant between a couple discussing the film, which they had just seen.

He: "That's what New Zealand Is realty like. Just mud, and forest, but mud everywhere--all over."

Observes our informant: "No wonder the tourist people just don't want to know."

And apropos of the success of that other film we learn that Schindler Lifts was founded in 1874 in Switzerland by Robert Schindler and now operates in 109 countries, including New Zealand, employs 42,000 people and moves 500 million passengers a day. Lately, in Australia, the firm has been advertising: Schindler's List, a moving story about people. Schindler Lifts, a story about moving people."

(Editor: If you've never visited New Zealand don't be turned off by what you see in The Piano [and the people who live there]. Most of NZ is not that dismal or muddy or rainy. The filmmakers apparently picked the gloomiest spot in the country and waited for rainy days to do their filming in order to sustain the somber mood of the story. This is not the New Zealand most of us know.)

A REMINDER

Just a reminder for those planning to visit New Zealand: be sure to make use of the visitor information network wherever you see the big green "i". With over 70 locations throughout the country, they are designed to serve the needs of visitors with comprehensive, unbiased, up to the minute Information on what to do, where to go, and what to see and enjoy.

For the independent, free-wheeling traveler, a Visitor Centre can also help check out accommodations for you, maybe arrange for you to meet some special interest people like gardeners, potters, anglers, sports- people, or whatever to compare notes with. If you ask, it is more than likely also that they have addresses of people in private homes who offer casual bed and breakfast stays at a very reasonable rate. What better way to meet the real New Zealanders at home and even make lasting friendships.

NEW ZEALAND BY RAIL

Are you interested in rail travel? Railway passenger trains nearly everywhere are being fazed out or are in decline, but New Zealand has been upgrading its nine

remaining long distance services and reports a remarka ble upsurge of interest. The Company reports passenger growth up 17% over the previous year, and It attributes the revival to interior refurbishing, high window carriages, and improved customer services.

Rail travel has an inherent attraction of its own. The romance of rail is a whole experience, not just getting from one point to another but seeing a totally different view of the countryside. Narrow gauge New Zealand trains are not noted for breaking speed records, but on the routes they serve you can be assured of a comfortable, relaxing journey among friendly people with meal and buffet service available.

The main North Island service is from gateway Auckland, to the capital city of Wellington, over 430 miles, taking ten hours, with a variety of mountain and low-land scenery to keep you interested. On the South Island several services link Picton, the inter-island terminal, with Christchurch, Dunedin and Invercargill. Then there is the ever popular Tranz-Alpine Excursion from Christchurch through the Southern Alps to the West Coast and return.

Rail, bus and ferry timetables are all integrated and an Intercity Travel Pass is available for unlimited travel for short or long periods.

North American readers should write for the latest free edition of the Sight Seeing Summary, Getting Around New Zealand, the Accommodation Guide and the New Zealand Vacation Planner which tells you all you want to know. Contact: The New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd., #300, Santa Monica CA 90401, or phone (310) 395-7480 or (800) 388-5494.

OBJECTIVE: NEW ZEALAND

by Allan Cross

Communique #1.0

Personnel: Allan Cross and Martha Cross-Balon

Our intelligence gathering in this area produced the name "Southern Cross Tours", run by an agent using the codename "Suzi Beacham", (800) 793-2999. Although agent Suzi was only a civilian, she had a lot of field experience and is to be considered reliable with a rating of A-1 by all personnel authorized access to this report. Agent Suzi wisely recommended the "Bus/Train/Ferry" package for the South Island which Included seamless inter-facing among NZ Rail, InterCity Coachlines and the Interislander Ferry at a very cost-effective rate. Because our visiting points were relatively far apart and neither of us wanting to miss scenery because we were driving, we decided to go with the package and then pick up a rental car In Wellington for the North Island. Also, sitting behind the bus driver was a good way to get used to the feeling of driving on the "wrong" side of the road, which was a great help when the time came to start driving ourselves. Agent Suzi was again absolutely correct by choosing McDonalds Rental Cars. This gave us the flexibility for short drives with a lot of stops...just what we needed for the N.I. This mixture of different transportation methods enabled us to acomplish the mission efficiently and to maximize that feeling of what civilians refer to as "fun".

* Bivouac at Bed & Breakfasts as much as possible so as to maximize contact with the indigenous populate.

A valuable intelligence source for this is the B&B Handbook. An even more valuable source is a Local National (LN) using the name "John Rose", who also runs the Pineapple Cottage B&B in Auckland. This LN Is not only extremely knowledgeable, but also understands and even likes foreign personnel such as American Nationals (AN). He has been known to even welcome them into his home and treat them as family. LN Rose maintains an informal network with other LN B&Bers and can supplement the B&B Handbook marketing descriptions with realism. More later on other such reliable LNs.

* Keep moving. This means bivouacking at a different location almost every night. Travel fast means travel light. Pack your duffel so you have one "every day" and the other for storage either in the car trunk or even at a B&B to which you plan to return. Then only one small duffel has to be carried around. Recycle uniforms by making use of laundry facilities. Wear layered uniforms to adjust to changing weather. In this terrain, combat boots are not necessary, but good walking shoes are. Daily moves can exhaust the most seasoned trooper, so pick a favorite spot to rest and relax (R&R) ever so often. Warning: This tactic is not suitable for everyone...but you can sure cover a lot of terrain!

Narrative: With the above tactics in mind, the A&M team shipped out from their home base in South Jersey. After the first leg of the journey, the "R&R tactic" was employed. Upon landing at LAX (a codename for a civilian air base In Los Angeles), the A&M team secured their carry-ons

in a locker and was picked up by a tree van in five minutes for a ten-minute trip to the Hacienda Hotel (800-421-5900). Previous planning ensured a 6.5 hour time between aircraft. The team was then able to go to the hotel; have a "quiet room" (request specifically) waiting for them at a reduced day rate; sleep for five hours; have a delicious yet inexpensive meal in the hotel cafe (the huge burger is not only great but a "best buy"); be whisked back to LAX by the van; and arrive refreshed for the long flight to the objective. Quite civilized... and you've already started adjusting your body clock.

Upon landing at Christchurch the team found that a minor error in planning had occurred...not enough time had been planned to see the city. A contingency plan was quickly formulated. A private taxi was hired for the evening to give us a private tour. In every operation a little luck is needed and we lucked out. Our driver Peter Abrams who works for Gold Band Taxis (phone: 379-5795), was a plethora of not only local knowledge, but also flora, fauna, geography, geology, gastronomy and more. We managed to reconnoiter the whole town, along with behind the scene travel and intelligent, educational commentary. We also visited Lyttleton, finishing the tour with a trip to Mt. Cavendish. We rode the new cable car up the mountain, which we found to be the only way to "take that hill". A breathtaking ride to a new facility on the mountain top! At the top we ate at the Ridge Restaurant, which we feared would be a tourist trap because of its obvious monopoly. We checked the prices and were surprised at the reasonableness. So then we thought the food would be poor or wee- sized...wrong! The food was only exceeded by the service and we had our first lamb In NZ...all In less than four hours after landing! We were off to a good start. We also dined to a fabulous sunset and saw the lights of Christchurch on the ride down the cable car to our waiting taxi! On the way back to our B&B, Peter took us to "The Sign of the Takahe", an upscale Victorian restaurant/carriage stop, the likes of which hasn't been seen since England. The team made a note to dine there the next trip. Our first day in NZ was a resounding success due to poor planning, good luck and a great driver (who incidentally only charged NZ$105 for four hours of driving, touring and commentary!). Seek out this LN when in need of transport in Christchurch.

The next day we started making use of our Travel Pass. The team took a practically empty bus across the Salisbury Plains, over the Alps and into Greymouth. Then we continued South to Fox Glacier...

Stay tuned to this frequency for the next communique:

Will the team slip off, a glacier? Will they be pecked by a hungry Kea bird? Or, will they finally discover why it has been getting so cool even though they have been heading due South?

FUDGE FARM (from Newzgram)

A Northland couple has found a sweet way to lure visitors to their tearooms in the tiny town of Tangiteroria (west of Whangerei on 14). They have perfected 11 fudge flavours "made the old labour-intensive way" with milk from their own cows. Visitors who buy one bag quickly return for five more,

the couple say. The Fudge Farm tearooms, developed from a bungalow-style house, features Singer sewing machine tables and a farm environment with tractors, swings, donkeys, and a cow to milk.

NETWORK FOR LIVING ABROAD

The Network for Living Abroad newsletter is published monthly to help in finding resources and contacts for work, study and living in other countries and to further better international understanding.

The March 15, 1994 issue featured articles and news about New Zealand and Australia--with some really informative material--such as "How to Tell an Aussie from a Kiwi" and job news from both countries.

The newsletter is published by Editor Ruth Halcomb, and membership in the Network costs $36/ year U.S., $46/year, International. If you are interested in membership Ms. Halcomb will send you a copy of the March 15 issue upon request.

Network for Living Abroad

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EXPLORE A VOLCANO

On the misty autumn morning of May 31, 1886, two separate boatloads of tourists were taken across Lake Tarawera to visit the awesomely beautiful Pink and White Terraces, then termed the "8th wonder of the world." Both groups of visitors saw a strange sight: a fully dressed and manned Maori war canoe speeding past them. Though the canoe seemed phantom-like, one of the tourists a Josiah Martin actually drew a picture of the craft. The occupants of the canoe seemed to be in mourning. The ghost canoe had never before been seen in the area by the terrorized local Maoris. Tuhuto, an ancient tohunga (priest) informed his people that this event was an omen foretelling that the region would soon be visited by disaster.

Exactly 11 days later Mount Tarawera, a volcano believed to be completely "cold stone", suddenly erupted during the chilly moonlit night, destroying several Maori villages, killing at least 153 people, and spreading 6,000 square miles of ash and debris over the countryside.

The series of devastating eruptions that followed caused Lake Rotomahana to explode, the sound of which could be heard as far away as Christchurch on the South Island. When the lake filled up again seven years later, the lost and lamented Pink and White Terraces lay 150 meters below the surface.

Present-day visitors to the Rotorua area can view much of what remains of the devastation, including a visit to the top of Mount Tarawera and down inside the cinder cone.

Eleven-year-old Samantha Lawler's fifth grade teacher Mrs. Ginger Dotson did that with

her husband Doug. Samantha interviewed Mrs. Dotson, and here is her story:

We were taken on a 1/2 day trip to the mountain, just the two of us, in an old Land Rover driven by a very knowledgeable Frenchman.

Looking down into the crater of the volcano is a bit frightening because it's so deep--894 feet. People hike around the rim, and can slide down the inside of the crater from certain sides. I would guess there were 45 or 50 people sliding, standing up. down the other side from us. On our side the ash was thicker, and we had to sit down and slide by pushing ourselves along even though the slope is very steep. You sit down and sort of roll your way to the bottom. The ash is of almost every color--red, white, brown--in lengthwise patches as well as horizontal.

In Rotorua at the Maori tribal grounds of Whakarewarewa you can take a helicopter ride which includes flying over the volcano, even landing there if you pay extra. People just love it.

We saw a helicopter come roaring up just as we were ready to go sliding down. The man who was in the helicopter filming with his video camera seemed to almost fall out in his excitement. The interior of the mountain is so spectacular because it has such steep, steep sides and all of a sudden, nothing--the narrow lip and then down into zero space far below.

Our guide was excellent--good at geology and also botany, so he stopped often to show us special plants and obsidian here and there.

At the top when we were walking out of the cone, we felt as though we were on top of the world, far above the clouds. You can't even see some of the valleys because of the clouds, but you can see volcanic peaks far in the south of the North Island.

Think twice before you go to the bottom of the crater because the hike out is rather long and wearing though not nearly as steep as going in. There's no danger, however. The mountain Is completely quiet, hasn't even steamed for a long, long time. Probably there's a deep layer of cold rock, and it'll take another earthquake to split It before another explosion can take place.

There's a buried city (Te Wairoa) you can visit outside Rotorua. Only part of it has been excavated, but some of the houses have been rebuilt. You can see where the upper stories of the 56-room tourist hotel collapsed onto the ground floor, and the flooring is still there. Everyone got out safely, by the way. On a hill there's a big house that was the home of an important government official, and It's all buried except for the chimney. Much more excavation could be carried out, but funding is difficult, and New Zealand has invited groups from other countries to come and dig.

In this same location there are many beautiful waterfalls, some quite near the top of the trail if you don't want to walk all the way down. There's a tearoom at the top where there are old newspaper articles about the disaster, as well as items that belonged to the people that lived there.

The people knew something was coming. They'd had a lot of earthquakes, and some people had seen visions of a coming disaster. The Maoris believed in the omens, but the European people did not--so not many people left. The Maoris were helpful, saved many lives-- but more than 150 people were burled. Perhaps the volcanic gases killed some people.

The blast blew a side out of the mountain, raised the level of several lakes, and took out the five miles of the world famous Pink and White Terraces. We heard that they're trying to rebuild the Terraces at the end of the river system--I think it's the Whakatane River. They've dammed it several places and made It into reservoirs for people to use. I don't know how soon they'll be finished with this rebuilding, but I think they could make it beautiful, much like the original. You can see photographs of the original, but they're in black and white.

The old Bath House in Rotorua, Government Gardens, no longer offers baths, but inside is a good exhibit which shows the Tarawera disaster, with volcanic sights and sounds.

(Ed.: to find out about visits to Mount Tarawera go to the NZ Tourism Board office in Rotorua at Fenton and Haupapa Streets--to the Rotorua Travel Centre on Amohau St.. or to the Automobile Assoc. at the corner of Hinemoa and Hinemaru Streets.

SILVER FERN TAPE RECORDING CLUB

You are welcome to join an international family of tape recording correspondents. You can form new friendships anywhere in the world, either personally or as a group (on a Round Robin basis).

The club sends out a newsletter four times a year. Membership costs are low--only NZ$20 ($14 for blind and disabled).

Write to: Silver Fern Tape Recording Club, do Phyll and Fred Moore, 9 Kamahi P1., Rotorua NZ.

THE LETTER BOX

My husband I have been In NZ for almost two weeks now, and already have come to love it as you and your readers do. The notes taken from your newsletter have proved to be useful and accurate. A few issues back someone noted that the widely used Cirrus Network does not exist in New Zealand. That is true. As we are going to be here for several weeks, we decided to open a bank account for the convenience of using the ATM's for cash. We elected to use the National Bank, and we were able to make a deposit with our credit card, complete the paperwork (using our passports for identification), and open an account in ten minutes! We can draw up to a maximum of $200 a day and the ATM'S are readily available in the several places we've been on the North Island so far. In

addition, many shops, gas stations, even supermarkets will accept EFPOS. which is direct payment with the ATM card, drawing directly from the funds on deposit. This is almost a cashless society! (We find that VISA and Mastercard are accepted in many places also, including some supermarkets).

For your sailing enthusiasts ("yachties" we are called), we chartered a sailboat, a 39' Beneteau, from Moorings Rainbow, and had a fantastic 10-day cruise in the Bay of Islands. The weather was perfect, with good winds, sun, and temperatures in the 70's and 80's. This is a unique sailing ground and maritime park off the northeast part of North Island. We did lots of walking on the beautiful and historic islands as well, exploring the Maori pas (settlements) and beautiful tramping trails. Moorings Rainbow can be reached at P0 Box 8327 Symonds St., Auckland NZ. Tel. 64 9 3780719, fax 64 9 3780931. We sailed out of Opua, where they also have an office. They are a first class company and offer a wide variety of boats for charter.

We contacted the AA office right away and they have been extremely helpful, as you said. So far we've been staying at AA recommended motels, and the owners of these establishments treat us like houseguests (offering to pick us up at the bus, and spending a lot of time to make sure our needs are met). We also have the Thomas B&B book and the listings there sound terrific.

Thank you for your interesting and informative newsletter.

Maryann Bracken, New Haven CT

BITS AND PIECES

* In a 1990 Auckland survey of 249 general practitioners, 30% practiced one or more forms of alternative medicine. Alternative therapies are now an integral part of New Zealand's primary health care. With some justification the term "complementary" is becoming more fasionable than "alternative", and it Is clear that complementary is how many doctors regard these therapies.

and return home. The Kiwi soldiers have been responsible for supplying and distributing rations to UN forces. NZ Defence Force personnel are involved in peacekeeping activities in various parts of the world, including Mozambique. Angola. Bosnia, Cambodia and the Middle East.

Overseas teenagers wanting an adventure summer camp including skiing, horsetiekking, whitewater rafting, whale watching, jet boating, sheep mustering. sea kayaking, and hot air ballooning are being enticed down under. Camp Kiwi, sited on Canterbury's Flock Hill high country sheep station, building on NZ's growing reputation as the adventure capital of the world, says owner Mike Meade. Check with the NZ Tourism Board.

PROTECTION FOR TREASURED 'SECRET'

(from Newzgram)

An area almost twice the size of Luxembourg and eight times the size of Singapore is being set aside in the northwestern corner of the South Island for a new national park to be named Kahurangi.

The park will eventually cover an area close to 500,000 hectares, making it the second biggest national park in NZ after Fiordland National Park.

Conservation Minister Denis Marshall described the decision to create the new park as a "huge gain" for conservation. He said Kahurangi was an important stronghold for more than 100 species of native birds, and was "one of the country's best kept secrets." Kahurangi is one of the Maori words for "treasured thing."

The area to be covered by the new park is popular for tramping, camping, caving and rafting, and includes New Zealand's deepest cave (Nettlebed, 889 metres).

TELL THEM YOU SAW IT

IN THE KIWIphile FILE

THE NEW ZEALAND ALTERNATIVE

The New Zealand Alternative explains the immigration policy, requirements for business migrants, taxation, the labor market, education and more. Large spiral- bound, 186 pages with 23 regional maps and listings of resources for health care, accounting, banking. etc.

The author is Roger Miles, owner of the well- respected Rainbow Yacht Charters. Updated 1993. US$29.50. Send check to New Zealand Alternative. 9129 Lurline Ave., Chatsworth CA 91311. Call 800-423-3270 or fax 818-341-4684 for credit card orders.

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