Volume X, No.4

JUNE 1998

FROM NEW ZEALAND TOURISM BOARD

This year we are pleased to tell you about two new publications which replace The North American Vacation Planner that some of you have received in the past. Much of the information formerly contained in the Planner can now be accessed via the Internet, guidebooks, and other tourism brochures.

The Destination Book --- a 12-page brochure containing the essence of what a New Zealand holiday best represents for North Americans. It will include emotive destination visuals, lively descriptions, full maps of New Zealand, and the essential facts needed by every traveler.

The Product Selector—a 40-page brochure out- lining 80 of our vacation products. This is aimed at consumers and can only be obtained by calling our toll-free number.

To order supplies of the Destination Book, please call us at 1 800 388 5494.

The New Zealand What to See and Do Guide and the New Zealand Where to Stay Guide can also be ordered by calling 1 800 388 5494 in the U.S. and 1 888 5494 in Canada.

AIRLINE UPDATE

Ansett New Zealand has joined the Quantas Frequent Flyer Program. Now when you fly to New Zealand on Quantas Airways and travel on the Ansett New Zealand network, you can earn points for reward travel around the country. Ansett has new brochures on the New Zealand Airpass. Starting at NZ$450 for three coupons, you can fly to Dunedin, Wellington, and Christchurch.

Also available are two Scenic Standby Airpasses (10 days or 30 days). These are designed for the traveler with limited time who is willing to travel on standby. For more information or a brochure Ph 1 800 366 1300 ext 2 or 1 310 647 3430.

Qantas Airways announced that they will code- share on new Reno Air Services connecting with the nonstop, twice daily flights between Los Angeles and Sydney. Quantas was named "Best Airline to Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific" by Business Traveler Magazine for seven straight years. For more information and for reservations Ph 1 800 227 4500.

Air New Zealand announced that they are offering domestic Air Points to passengers for the first time. The points are redeemable on domestic and international flights. To celebrate the launch of domestic Air Points, all new and existing Air Points customers will receive 150 points immediately.

Through May 31, 1998, Air New Zealand is offering a cash rebate of $747 to premium travelers who purchase a full-fare First or Business Class ticket in the USA on one of its non-stop flights from Los Angeles to London, Frankfurt, Auckland and Sydney.

For more information, visit their website at http://www.airnz.com or PH 1 800 262 1234.

THE KIWI

The "kiwi" (shown in logo above) is a flightless bird native to New Zealand. (New Zealanders also like to call themselves "Kiwis").

The kiwi (bird) is unusual in at least two respects. First, it is the only bird in the world that has its nostrils at the end of its beak. Second, the female kiwi has the largest egg, in proportion to its body size, of any bird in the world (except possibly for the hummingbird). Kiwis are about the same size as chickens, but their eggs are almost as big as those of ostriches!

The "kiwi" is not to be confused with "kiwi- fruit" the brown funy fruit with the green flesh. Kiwi-fruit come originally from China, and in fact were originally called "Chinese gooseberries". Sometime in the 1960s, kiwifruit farmers in New Zealand decided to market the fruit overseas, but decided to give them another name to avoid confusion.

(Remember also that mainland China was very much out of favour with the West at that time.) To help identify the fruit with New Zealand, the name "kiwifruit" was chosen.

Some people refer to kiwifruit as "kiwis", but this is incorrect. (New Zealanders also find this very irritating!) A "kiwi" is a bird (or a human New Zealander); the fruit should always be called "kiwifruit" (or "Chinese gooseberries").

CAMPING IN OTAGO

Solid, conservative Otago encompasses three different and distinctive areas. It includes the populated coastal fringe, barren and challenging high country in the interior and the wildly beautiful Catlins coast.

On the coast, Dunedin is the principal city. Sprawling over a number of steep hills, many suburbs enjoy wonderful views of its extensive harbour. Dunedin has a tradition originating from the influence of its first Scottish settlers. The imposing architecture here has a timeless quality. Historic homesteads are open for inspection. A journey to the far end of the Otago peninsula would not be complete without a visit to the albatross colony. A cruise is also available to enjoy close-up views of seals, cormorants and albatrosses in their natural environment.

Venture inland and you will find the feisty settlements that remain vestiges of the early gold rush boom. Hydro development has harnessed the mighty Clutha and New Zealand's largest (and most controversial) high darn is at Clyde, and well worth inspecting. There are a choice of lakes, some man made, that offer a range of water-based activities, while orchards at Alexandra and Roxburgh produce quality apricots and other stone fruit.

Experience the vast emptiness of Central Otago, where occasional gorges slice through the landscape. For miles you may see nothing but the occasional rabbit. However there is interesting camping here, while good roads make the journey easy. The almost continental climate makes summer camping popular. Long days, high sunshine hours and mostly thy weather are to be expected.

Capture the spirit of this region. Its pre-European history includes the exploits of the moa hunters. The region was plundered of this now extinct bird and later of its greenstone and gold. Follow the Otago Heritage Trail through Clyde, Lawrence, St. Bathans and Naseby. Take a gold pan and see if the rivers still yield their rewards to the patient.

The dramatic Catlins Coast has been the site of archaeological discoveries, including the fossiised forest at Curio Bay. This is a popular camping area in summer, but a quiet spot can usually be found in this otherwise sparsely populated location.

Otago should be on your itinerary if you enjoy scenic diversity. It is not noted for glitzy entertainment, but rather for voyages of discovery in a powerful countryside.

SIX DAYS, THREE TRAINS IN NZ

Inta-Aussie South Pacific has a low-cost, independent 6-day tour by the top-notch trains of New Zealand's North Island that provides transportation, hotel accommodations. and two half-day sightseeing tours -- in Wellington and in the Rotorua thermal regions -- for $629 per person, tourist class, twin occupancy, and $760 in first class.

No meals other than one lunch on a train are included, unless travelers choose (for $40 first class and $50 tourist) to stay at a farmhouse in the Rotorua region on the last night where dinner and breakfast are provided.

The itinerary begins and ends in Auckland, and can be taken on any day of the year.

The Overlander train covers the journey from Auckland to Wellington in ten hours, through Waikato sheep and dairylands, up the Raurimu Spiral into the forests of the Mamaku Range, skirting the active volcano Ruapehu in Tongariro National Park and running down into Wellington.

The Overlander has panoramic windows, a bar and observation lounge and serves complimentary morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea.

From Wellington the Bay Express travels along the Kapiti Coast to Palmerston North, then via the Manawatu Gorge to the southern Shores of Hawks Bay and to Napier, a journey of five and a quarter hours. Complimentary morning tea is served, there is a bar and an informative commentary on the region is given throughout the trip.

A third train, the Geyserland, returns from Rotorua to Auckland via Lake Taupo to complete the itinerary. though there is the option of completing the tour by coach in order to visit the Waitomo Glow Worm Caves.

Contact Inta-Aussie Tours, 9841 Airport Blvd., Suite 1402, Los Angeles, CA 90045; phone 800/531 - 9222 or 310/568-2060, or fax 310/568-2068.

NEW ZEALAND DO'S AND DON'TS

Do break away from the tour and meet New

Zealanders, who are among the nicest people on earth... Don't be surprised by all the rain, especially in the many mountainous areas... Don't forget that traffic moves on the left and watch for signs saying "Camera" in the left-turn lane. It is illegal to make turns on a red light and the camera photographs those who do. Fines go as high as NZ$250, although the police tend to be a little more lenient with tourists in rented cars. A left on red would be like our "right on red" think about it ...

Don't tip, as service charges at restaurants are unheard of. Taxi drivers never expect a tip... Don't be obnoxious about taking pictures of the Maoris in Rotorua. It is their home, and their privacy should be respected... Don't be surprised by the strong support in New Zealand for a nuclear-free zone in the South Pacific...

Do try some of the local beers, if so inclined. Steinlager Blue Label and DB are the most popular. .. New Zealand wines have won many international awards in recent years... Do attend a rugby or soccer match, bowling on the green or a golf tournament if the opportunity presents itself.., do go to a sheep station and watch sheep-shearing, if it's the right time of year... Don't mix up the Waitangis: There are two towns with the same name, one in the Bay of Islands, the other in the Chatham Islands...

Dont plan on setting any long-distance-mileage

records each day. Most traffic moves no faster than 40 mph/64 kph because of the winding, hilly roads. The speed limit is 50 mph/80 kph, but don't feel obliged to go that fast... Do be polite about shaking hands: When a man wants to shake a woman's hand, he waits until she offers hers first... Do be especially careful with personal belongings. There has been a recent increase of thefts from tourist cars and hotel rooms, as well as at the airports...

NEW ZEALAND FISHING CALENDAR

— The shortest day of the year and the beginning of winter is June 21. Fishing pretty much confined to the Lake Taupo and Lake Rotorua districts and a few lakes on the South Island. Lake Taupo steethead/rainbow runs are in full swing. Lake Rotorua is open but Tarawera and other lakes close June through September. Uncrowded.

For the hardy angler, the Taupo district stream fishing for steelhead/rainbow runs are at their zenith.

Deep trolling in the Lakes, Taupo and Rotorua. Uncrowded except the Tongariro River, a tributary to Lake Taupo can be crowded this month with local anglers.

August The quietest month of the year for fishing. Taupo spawners still available and Lake Rotorua fishes well, deep trolling. Uncrowded.

(The above from FISHING INTERNATIONAL, P.O. Box 2132, Santa Rosa CA 95405. 707-539-3366 or 800- 950-4242.)

NEW ZEALAND - WHAT TO EAT

Meats - Lamb is naturally one of the most popular traditional dishes. Often cooked as a juicy roast with garlic and rosemary and served slightly pink with a tangy mint sauce, lamb is generally on the menu of almost every restaurant in the country. Hogget or one-year-old lamb, is more tasty than younger lamb but not as strong as mutton.

Beef is excellent and reasonably priced in restaurants—and nothing beats sizzling, thick juicy steaks and sausages, crisp salads, chilled wine or beer, good company, and cicadas singing from the trees at a traditional New Zealand "barby". Chicken or "chock" is another favorite. Sausages or "bangers" come in all shapes and sizes and are most frequently served battered and deep- fried at takeaways. New Zealanders are also partial to farm-raised or "home-grown" venison (expensive unless bought patty-form in a venison burger), veal, duck and pheasant (some of the sporting lodge restaurants specialize in game), and wild pork. If you like experimenting with different tastes, try muttonbird—it's a Maori delicacy that tastes like fish-flavored chicken!

Hot meat pies loaded with lamb or beef and gravy enclosed in flaky pastry, commonly served warm (from takeaways) with chips or pub-style with mashed potatoes, peas, and gravy, are virtually a national dish. If you're a pie fancier, try the many kinds of savory pies—egg and bacon, pork, and mincemeat; they make a quick and filling, inexpensive lunch. When you're in the mood for potato chips try salt and vinegar flavor.

Seafood — New Zealand's bountiful variety of shellfish ranges from toheroa, tuatua, pipi, paua, cockles, and oysters (several varieties) to lobsters, scallops (great in Marlborough, season Aug.- Feb.), and crayfish (also called spiny lobster or rock lobster). Toheroa found along the northwest beaches of the North Island, make one of the best shellfish soups in the world, but unfortunately it's seldom available fresh because of strict conservation measures—if you get the chance, take it (otherwise find it canned in supermarkets). Other seafood, such as cod, flounder, hapuka, kingfish, John Dory, snapper, squid, and terekihi, are all good tasting and widely available. Bluff oysters are very popular with connoisseurs—if you can't get fresh, look for them canned in the supermarket. Freshwater-fish lovers can easily find salmon (fresh and smoked), whitebait (tiny transparent fish fried in batter or cooked in fritters—another New Zealand delicacy), and eels. To sample a rainbow or brown trout fresh from a crystal-clear stream is a real treat—both are superb. Trout are not sold commercially, but if you catch one yourself (it's not too difficult!), most restaurants will prepare it for you on request Fish and chips, wrapped in paper and newspaper from the local takeaway or fish-and-chips shop are one of the best and least expensive ways to sample a wide variety of New Zealand seafood.

Fruits and Veggies — Fresh fruit and vegetables are abundant throughout the year. Try some of the many exotic ones if you have the chance. A few you may not recognize are aubergines (eggplants), beetroot (red beets), bilbemes (blueberries), courgettes (small zucchinis), feijoas (an exotic-tasting fruit available April and May), Chinese goose-berries or kiwifruit (high in Vit. C), best May-Dec.), kumara (a root

vegetable similar to a sweet potato), rock melon (a small, sweet melon), and tamarillos or tree tomatoes—red, jellylike fruit found May- December. Strawberries, raspberries, boysenberries, and loganberries are best in Jan. and Feb., melons and avocados after Christmas, passionfruit in March and April, and asparagus in September.

Dairy Foods & Desserts - New Zealand's rich dairy foods are lethal to the waistline but oh-so-good! Ice cream, especially the fruit-flavored ice creams loaded with chunks of real fruit, takes top place for any sweet tooth. Creamy milk is still delivered in glass bottles (New Zealanders generally prefer glass to cartons, though both are available), and a wide variety of tasty cheeses, including local Camembert, feta, Gouda, Romano, Gruyere, New Zealand blue vein, Brie, and cheddar, are readily available.

Every tearoom in the country offers a variety of cakes filled with fresh cream, custard- or fruit-filled tarts, and cream buns. The famous and traditional dessert, paviova, is made of meringue, crunchy on the outside and gooey inside, filled with whipped cream and fresh fruit—traditionally strawberries and kiwifruit, dribbled with passionfruit. Both New Zealand and Australia take pride in the invention of this dessert (natives of each argue over where it was created) in honor of dancer Anna Pavlova, who visited New Zealand in the 1920s. Feeling peckish yet?

WORLD WIDE TOURS & TRAVEL, INC.

Suzi Beacham, the first/original owner of Southern Cross Tours, Inc., is now back in business after selling her company in 1995. Her new company is World Wide Tours & Travel, Inc., 393 W. State St., Suite B, Eagle, ID 83616, Ph: (888) 697-0913, Fax (208) 938- 0913, and e-mail: jbs1242@aol.com

She is representing McDonald Rental Cars again, and she'll be offering 7 day North Island, 7 day South Island, 14 day and 21 day combined North/South Island driving packages with pre-booked/pre-paid B & B accommodations... in addition to all the other neat things she did in the past.

FROM THE BRINK OF EXTINCTION - by Elizabeth B. Booz, New Zealand, Picturesque Land of Mountains and Lakes (Passport Books)

In 1980 the rarest bird in the world was incontestably the Chatham Island black robin. Only five of the bright-eyed little bush birds remained on earth. That New Zealanders were aware of the impending loss—and cared—was due to a tragic irony. New Zealand had once been the exclusive realm of bird life, a paradise without predators, where many birds forgot how to fly. For millions of years species unknown elsewhere in the world

lived in peace in the forests and grasslands. A thousand years ago, human beings arrived bringing rats, cats and other bird-destroying animals—and fire. Since then fully half of New Zealand's native birds have become extinct, and many more perch precariously on the brink today. Awareness came almost too late.

Officers of New Zealand's Wildlife Service took their first census of the Chatham Island black robins in 1972. They climbed the forbidding cliffs of a tiny islet off the remote Chatham Islands, 800 km (500 miles) east of Christchurch, to a small patch of deteriorating forest known to be the last refuge of the black robin. The men counted only 18 individuals and marked each bird with a coloured leg band. Four years later there were only seven. With infinite care the wildlife team caught the robins, wrestled their cages down the cliffs and ferried them by rubber boat to a bigger, better-forested island nearby. There, the two remaining breeding females, named Old Blue and Old Green for their coloured leg bands, each raised chicks, but the older birds died one by one. Time was running out. The wildlife team took up residence on the forsaken, windswept island and, in desperation, decided to try a technique called crossfostering. As soon as Old Blue or Old Green laid eggs, they were whisked away to the nests of warblers, who were known to make good foster parents. Saddened to find their nests empty, the robins laid again, and once more the eggs were given to warblers. Ten eggs were hatched by the warblers, but only four chicks survived. The warbiers were not able to feed the babies sufficiently, and the robin population fell to five.

Southeast Island, 15 km (nine miles) away, wads a nature reserve. Its forest included tits, who are close relatives of the black robin. This was the last chance. Old Blue was now the only remaining female. She had lived almost 13 years, twice a normal lifespan, but she kept laying The wildlife team mustered the help of fishermen, who ferried each newlaid robin's egg across open sea in a tiny incubator. Within two hours it was on Southeast Island, placed in a nest under a warm mother. When Old Blue died in 1984, there were 19 black robins—six of which were her children and 11 of which were her grandchildren. Today there are more than 60, all descended from valiant Old Blue.

Cross-fostering using specially trained bantam hens as adoptive mothers, saved the takahe from certain extinction in the 1950s, and a number of them now live under official protection. Little Barrier Island and Kapiti Island, guarded by the vigilant Department of Conservation, serve as a last refuge for nearly vanished species such as the stitch-bird, saddleback, kakapo, black petrel and Cook's petrel. Other rare birds are carefully monitored and protected in the national parks.

STEWART ISLAND ADVENTURE by Janine Gray

Sea kayaking through the sheltered waters of Paterson Inlet in the company of bottlenose dolphins is an experience of rare comparison, and proved a wonderful way to end a three day nature excursion on Stewart Island. After an eventful night of kiwi spotting a surreal walk through miles of windswept sand dunes, a skinny dip in the wild Tasman Sea, two nights of crayfish, trumpeter and blue cod, and four different modes of transportation, our short visit to Stewart Island offered the diversity of a large city without the hassle of traffic jams and noisy neighbours.

Our Stewart Island guided wilderness adventure had been organised by Kiwi Wilderness Walks in Riverton, so we had nothing to worry about except which fish and chip shop to order our take-away meal from, and which bottle of wine would best suit the occasion.

The town of Riverton is a sleepy little fishing village, 40km west of Invercargill. Geographically it's about as far south as you can go, so on any given day you can see Stewart Island which lies a further 40km off this southernmost tip of New Zealand.

Staying at the Riverton Rock was a comfortable way to start our adventure. Our room like the rest of the historic hotel had been tastefully restored and furnished. With highly polished riniu floors, dark green "evergiade" walls, gorgeous sunflowers dazzling the hallways and plush leather chairs, it felt more like a home out of "House and Garden" than a 19th century hotel for backpackers and up market travellers alike.

We were tempted to stay another day in R&R mode, but Captain Blake Scott was expecting us on his fishing boat and the tides would not wait.

On the journey over to Mason Bay (the west side of Stewart Island) the captain went diving for crayfish. Minutes later he returned with four large crays, which cooked up nicely in the oven on board. Meanwhile, we threw a few lines over and happened to intercept a hungry school of trumpeter. In a matter of minutes we had a healthy assortment of trumpeter and blue cod flopping around on deck. As amateur anglers this was quite an achievement, especially as we ate our catch while we crossed the strait.

After several hours of seafaring (some faring better than others), our designated landing point came into sight, a starkly beautiful stretch of beach with hilly scrub in the background. Thoughts of Robinson Crusoe came to mind as our captain brought the six of us ashore on the dinghy. But unlike Crusoe we had a guide who knew the way to our next destination, and the foresight to pack lots of food.

Walking along the beach for a few hours with only the sound of waves to break the peace, I was beginning to feel as if we were the only ones on the west side of the island, but on arriving at Mason Bay hut we discovered how relatively close to civilisation we were. There in the middle of seemingly nowhere was

a hub of activity, with muddy trampers on the deck drying their socks, others in the kitchen preparing their dinner, and more in the bunkhouse reading books or chatting in a smorgasbord of languages. Seeing the state of some of the trampers who were doing the hellish but rewarding nine day circuit, I felt relatively privileged to have guides cooking our meals and carrying a lot of the gear.

Kiwi spotting being part of the itinerary for the evening, Ruth (our guide) explained how Kiwis forage for their tucker at night and make a huge racket in the forest due to their poor eyesight. A strange flightless bird indeed—it still baffles me why New Zealanders pride themselves on being Kiwis.

During our search in the dark we encountered several Germans, two Austrians, and four Poms, but still no Kiwis. When the call finally came we knew it had to be the infamous Kiwi—what else would make such a startling sound in the middle of the night?

A tramper found one in the bushes and showed us the way. There amid the twigs and trees, was a kiwi digging his beak into the dirt, oblivious to our presence. With beady little eyes, an exceptionally long beak, a big backside and large clumsy feet, he appeared out of proportion in every way. He practically posed for us as we stared in fascination, and then he waddled away, apparently tired of our presence.

The following morning was spent climbing "Big Sand Hill". After a night on the international highway for kiwi spotting, the lonely sparseness of the sand dunes was an inviting contrast. On one side of the hill was a dense matting of Stewart Island vegetation for as far as we could see. Ruth told us that a group of farmers had tried to settle in the area but had ultimately found the isolation unbearable. The community broke up after 80 years of tiying.

On the other side of the hill was the sea stretching towards South America. Somehow it seemed appropriate to body surf naked in the cold expanse of the sea. Knowing how close we were to the bottom of the world it was nothing less than exhilarating.

Leaving the coast to go inland altered all the senses. As we gained more distance from the powerful surf, the variety of bird songs became more apparent. Tuis—another confused New Zealand bird, imitate the song of other birds and do it exceptionally well. The bellbird is his most popular target and only the discerning ear can hear the difference.

The valley in which we walked showed signs of the community which had tried to build a life in spite of the rain, mud, wind and isolation. Old farm machinery left to rust in the tall grass and the Island Hill Homestead domain of the last landowner, were the only indicators of the community's efforts to settle.

Arriving at Freshwater hut in the rain we were relieved to find that most of the trampers of the previous evening bad gone elsewhere, leaving us ample room for a good night's sleep. Our next destination was Paterson Inlet so kayaking was on the agenda.

In the afternoon the water taxi picked us up on the doorstep of the hut (talk about service!) and took us through the narrow twists and turns of Freshwater River to the mouth of the Pacific Ocean. We were delivered to Jo and her "Completely Southern Sea Kayaks" in Paterson Inlet. After a few pointers, Jo guided us to Whaler's Base to show us the remains of a Norwegian whaling company's repair base site that was active in the 1920s and 1930s.

Stewart Island has about 20 islands surrounding it, so island hopping is ideal on a kayak, especially with a few days to spare. Unfortunately we only had a few hours but were lucky enough to have calm waters and gorgeous blue sides. We snuggled up to the coastline to get a closer look at Stewart Island's dense vegetation:

mutton bird scrub cabbage trees and broad trees. Due to the unbroken forest surrounds, the waters of Paterson inlet are remarkably clear, and knowing that penguins and dolphins inhabited the waters we were hopeful of seeing some form of marine life.

As we were paddling towards Half-moon Bay a couple of bottlenose dolphins joined us in a noncommittal sort of way. They seemed to be snoozing while they drifted and didn't seem affected by our presence. Their company was a warming experience and well worth a picture, as we paddled the last stretch of our journey.

My adventures on Stewart Island have just begun—I know I'll be back.

Details of costs and departure dates available from Kiwi Wilderness Walks: 136 Palmerston St., Riverton, NZ. Freephone in NZ 0800 248 886 or overseas +64 3 234 8886

Email: kiwiwalks@riverton.co.nz

Web: http://www.riverton.co.nz

harvest shellfish and mutton birds, traditions still carried out today by local iwi. They named the island Rakiura—"Land of the Glowing Skies" as it is renowned for its lingering sunsets of summer and the aurora of winter.

At Kiwi Wilderness Walks our aim is to help you participate in the great outdoors in classic "Kiwi" fashion bunking down in bush huts and tents. Our experienced local guides will help you have a safe, enjoyable trip while providing an entertaining and valuable insight into the history of Maori, early settlers and the natural environment.

The seaside town of Riverton is an easy 40km drive west of Invercargill on the Southern Scenic Route. Once an early Maori settlement, Riverton is one of the oldest European towns in New Zealand.

Riverton today is known as a fishing village and holiday town. Houses and cribs perched on bush clad hills look out over Taramea Bay and the fishing boats moored in the estuary harbour below.

The Riverton Rock is a restored historic hotel that provides a perfect base from which to explore the South coast of New Zealand. Arrange your travel plans to Stewart Island or spend your time visiting some of the local attractions.

Enjoy the comfortable lodgings and warm hos- pitality of Riverton Rock where your trip will begin and end. This restored historic hotel offers all the comforts required to prepare for your trip and to welcome you, probably a little weary, on your return. A familiansation evening will enable you to meet your guide, view slides of the area and swap notes with your travelling companions.

The Riverton Rock, 136 Palmerston St., Riverton, NZ Email: therock@riverton.co.nz

Ph: +643 234 8886 Fax: +643 234 8816

THE RIVERTON ROCK

Picture yourself in the Southern most island of New Zealand wandering under a stadium of stars to try your luck at native Kiwi spotting Or stick to the mainland and imagine walking through the most important forest in the world. Kiwi Wilderness Walks brings you the opportunity to explore two very remote and unspoilt pieces of Southland, New Zealand—The Waitutu Track and Stewart Island.

The Waitutu Track follows the wild South Coast sweeping through bush and beach. Along an old forest tramway connected by a spectacular array of wooden viaducts leading you to the stunning Waitutu Forest. This is the largest piece of untouched lowland native forest in New Zealand.

Stewart Island offers the best chance most people will ever have to see New Zealand's national bird, the Kiwi, in its natural environment. Rest assured not many New Zealanders can make that claim. Many centuries ago Maori came by canoe to the island to

NEW ZEALAND ART -Peter McIntyre From STAMP FOCUS

Peter McIntyre was born in Dunedin in 1910 and

was the son of a well known Dunedin artist of the same name. Educated at Otago Boys' High School and the University of Otago, he left New Zealand at the age of 20 to study art in London.

When World War II broke out, Peter McIntyre joined the New Zealand volunteer unit in London. He served as a gunner in Egypt, then, as New Zealand's official war artist, painted New Zealanders in action in Greece, Crete, North Africa and Italy.

After the war Peter McIntyre returned to New Zealand and a long and highly successful professional painting career. His publications included his illustrated autobiography The Painted Years, three large format colour volumes, Peter McIntyre's New Zealand Peter McIntyre's Pacific and Peter McIntyre's West and a number of other books including Kakahi, Wellington, McIntyre's Country and War Artist.

In 1970, McIntyre was awarded the OBE for his work as an author and artist. Later he received the Governor General's Medal for his considerable contributions to the arts.

This continuation of the New Zealand Art Collection features four of McIntyre's works— Wounded at Cassino, painted in 1944 and now part of the National Collection of War Art at the National Archives of New Zealand: The Cliffs of Rangitikei painted around 1958, and Maori Children, painted in 1963, both part of the McIntyre Family Collection; and The Anglican Church Kakahi painted in 1972 and now held in a private collection.

AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND 1998 - pim Dodge

Australia and New Zealand will be our countries of choice as we head there for the fifth time on October 17, 1998. I am thrilled with each tour that I make, but this, without a doubt, is one of my very favorite places in the world. It is one of the longer tours we take but I have not met or talked with one single person who isn't ready to go back. In fact one woman has gone over with me twice and a couple who were with me on the first tour is ready to go back again this fall.

The basic trip is for 17 exciting days, including Day 1 when we fly to Los Angeles and stay overnight there. Many folks have never been to California and it's fun to go to Marina del Rey, Hollywood, Rodeo Drive, take a tour of the stars' homes in Beverly Hills, and sample some of the great California cuisine.

(pun Dodge, travel writer, host and speaker, publishes a neat newsletter. Contact her at P.O. Box 769, Frankfort MI 49635. Home phone: 616-352-6013. E-mail: pimd@benzie.com The following is from one of her newsletters.)

TATTOOS

I saw an absolutely fascinating program on tattoos on Discovery channel the other night. The word tattoo comes from the Tahitian language tattooa which means to tap. Capt. Cook on one of his voyages, found the Tahitians cutting into their bodies, injecting dyes and sporting these tattoos, sometimes over their entire bodies.

In Polynesia, he then found the Maoris, the people who now populate New Zealand, to also do this body painting. Theirs, however, was mostly on the face and had a definite pattern which indicated their lineage, the area they were from etc. When Cook left to go back to England, he took along ORMY, a very distinguished Polynesian, whose body and face were completely covered with tattoos.

Up until this time, Europeans looked upon tattooed people as savages or sailors but in OHMY they discovered a very well educated and well spoken gentleman. At this point, royalty decided that perhaps tattoos were not all that bad, but rather than have

them depict lineage, etc., they chose pretty pictures, dragons, war shields, etc. Thus tattooing came into vogue.

With the coming of the industrial age, special needles were made to inject the dyes and cutting was no longer necessary to create the pictures. Circus people, especially women, were fascinated with this art and many side shows featured a "Tattooed Lady."

TELL THEM YOU SAW IT IN

THE KIWIphile FILE!!

ENJOY SENIOR-FRIENDLY

YEAR-ROUND WILDERNESS WALK

The Hollyford Valley in New Zealand's Fiordland National Park is one of the world's greatest guided wilderness walks, a chance to enjoy a relaxed, but breathtaking outdoor experience in remote splendor.

The year-round low altitude walk begins deep in the beech forests of the South Island Alpine Divide and follows the valley's path north-westward to the sea past towering snowclad peaks, cascading waterfalls, mixed lowland rainforests and coastal wildlife including seals, dolphins, penguins and abundant birdlife. Unique in world terms, the region is recognized as one of the planet's protected places and is part of New Zealand's first World Heritage area.

With all the spectacles of New Zealand's other great walks, the Hollyford is also one of the easiest. Hollyford Valley Walk Limited offer four to six day experiences at a relaxed pace so that every aspect of the valley's beauty can be absorbed. Senior-friendly, the 35 mile walk is downhill all the way except for a 550 ft rise on the first day of the walk, and is comfortable for anyone of reasonable fitness. Groups are limited to 16 people and experienced guides are both knowledgeable and attentive.

From day one's arrival in Te Anau, relaxation is key. After checking into the Luxmore Hotel, options include golf, fishing, tennis, yachting and shopping. On day two, after a full cooked breakfast, visitors depart the hotel by coach through the Fiordland National Park. stopping for morning tea before starting a four mile walk to Sunshine Hut. A picnic lunch is followed by a visit to Hidden Falls, before continuing to Pyke Lodge for the first night's stay and a chance to visit a glow-worm colony.

The third day begins with a short walk to Lake Alabaster over the longest swing-bridge in Fiordland. followed by a scenic boat trip down the Hollyford River The after-noon's walk to Martins Bay takes in the dramatic West Coast and a fur sea colony. On the fourth day, a scenic flight to the Milford Sound offers a view ol Mt. Tutuko, Fiordland's tallest peak. The flight lands in Milford for a scenic cruise on the magnificent sound before guests return by coach to Te Anau. The five day fly

out tour includes extra time to contemplate the coast and Martins Bay. On the six day walk out option, guests retrace the route to the start point rather than flying out over the sound. The option includes a boat trip to McKerrow Island and an extra night at Pyke Lodge.

All Hollyford Valley guided walks include accommodation and meals, guide services, coach transport to and from Te Anau, boat transport, and on the fly out options scenic flight over and a cruise on Milford Sound,. Additional options include flightseeing and jet boat charter trips. Lodges are warm and comfortable and cooks prepare substantial evening meals and generous breakfasts. Seasonable delicacies include whitebait, paua, venison and trout.

For further information about the Hollyford Valley Walk please contact Adventure Center at (800)227-8747, Goway at (800)387-8850 or Mount Cook Tours at (800)688-9709 ext 403.

TAILORED TRAVEL CUSTOMIZES CARE-FREE PERSONALIZED N. Z. VACATIONS

Tucked away on the temperate perimeter of the South Seas, New Zealand offers travelers year-round adventure and relaxation in spectacular alpine mountains, sandy beaches, deep-green forests, cosmopolitan cities, and charming farm-lands. Such a wealth of choice enables each visitor to realize his/her fondest vacation dreams—and perhaps also complicates the planning process.

Tailored Travel New Zealand Custom Tours offers you as an independent traveler expert assistance in creating an itinerary designed around your budget and personal preferences. With the information you share in a "Personal Planning Questionnaire," owners Robert and Joan Panzer prepare a suggested trip route, make all necessaiy reservations, and provide maps, a day-to-day itinerary, background literature, phone numbers and anticipated costs. You are charged a set fee for this customized piannng service, depending on the length of your trip, and pay your own trip costs directly, at New Zealand rates, as you travel. A local "Kiwi" guide/driver may also be arranged for a reasonable fee.

For those travelers who prefer a more structured vacation, and who enjoy making new friends within a group, Tailored Travel offers the 20-day "South Island Quest." This small group adventure (8 participants maximum) covers the South Island by luxury van, spending several nights in each location. This allows ample time for a wide spectrum of outdoor and cultural activities depending on the interests of tour participants.

Tailored Travel is a family-owned and operated business, based on Rerenga Farm just outside of Nelson on the northern tip of the South Island. The Panzers will not only make you feel at home in their beautiful country, but will also open the doors

of their tranquil homestead to you as bed-and-breakfast accommodations. Three kilometers down the road is one of New Zealand's prime trout fishing spots. Less than an hour away lie Abel Tasman and Kahurangi national parks, Mount Arthur and some of New Zealand's most renowned vineyards. And these are just a few of the highlights of our "neighborhood."

Unpack your bags and settle in to savor the beauty and serenity of South Island country life.

Tailored Travel

Robert and Joan Panzer

Thorpe, RD 2, Wakefield, NZ

Ph (64)3 543 3825 Fax(64)3 543 3640

E-mailTailored@Nelson.Planet.org.nz

Website: http://nz.com/webnz/nzct/

COOL NEW SITES

Now you can access information on 19,000 tourism-related businesses in New Zealand through the new internet site, NZHOST, developed by the New Zealand Tourism Board and Telecom Directories Ltd.

From accommodation to yachting, this online tourism database has much to offer and it's easy to use. You can search by category and location to find the service or product you're seeking For instance, if you want to go horseback riding during your stay in Auckland, you simply enter "horse riding" in the keyword search field and "Auckland" as the location. A list of operators will come up with descriptions of services and contact details. Check out the NZHOST web site at http://www.nzhost.co.nz.

For those of you who haven't had a virtual tour of NZ, the Tourism Board web site (http://www.nztb.govt.nz) is a wonder to behold with more than 300 links. If you're interested in wine, for example, go to New Zealand Wines Online (www.nzwine.com). Last month there was a contest to win a free copy of the 1998 New Zealand Wine Guide. The site also features a Real Video Tour of New Zealand and its wineries.

Another great link from the Tourism Board website is Cool NZ Web Sites where you can view AIR ACTIVITIES and find out how paraponting, heliskiing. and bungy jumping can give you an adrenaline ru.sh (They even tell you what these strange words mean') Or you can view LAND ACTIVITIES and find out how to tour gardens, take a cycling tour, see the best museums and go zorbing.

NZ NATURE TOURS LTD

NZ Nature Tours specialises in Eco-Tourism and organises tours "off-the-beaten-track". We get in touch with nature and show the real New Zealand to our clients.

As our clients are well educated and want to focus on education during their holiday, NZNT is servicing

"special interest groups". With assistance of well educated New Zealanders as special guides we arrange tours which are not offered by any other inbound operators.

Special Interest Tours

*Maori Heritage Tours

*Garden Tours throughout New Zealand

*Agricultural Tours

*Bird Watcher Tours

*Sailing and research trips

*sport groups

*Vintage Car Tours

PRODUCT 1

NZ NATURE SAFARI 'NZ WILDERNESS' Nature Trek

PRODUCT 2

SAILING AND WILDLIFE IN FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK

PRODUCT 3

New Zealand 'BY LAND BY WATER AND BY AIR" 20 day 4x4 Safari Tour North and South Island, Group Departure

PRODUCT 4

GROUP DEPARTURES

For more information contact: NZ NATURE TOURS LTD. Mr. Frank Hildebrandt, P. 0. Box 27-508, Wellington, NZ

Tel. +64-4-385 3687

Fax +64-4-385 3683

Website:

http://nz.com/nz/commerce/clanztours/nznaturetour.html

E-mail: 100252.1302@compuserve.com (Frank Hildebrandt)

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

"Leave only hoof prints" is the motto of Hurunui Horse Treks, an outfit located in the Canterbury region of the South Island that caters to adventurers who are really serious about getting off the beaten track. For 3 hours or 10 days, for a trail ride or a high country pack trip, Rob and Mandy of Hurunui Horse Treks, offer a number of incredible packages. Imagine a pristine land of snow- capped mountains, rolling green hills and river-slashed valleys; ice cold sapphire lakes, and dense forest ringing with birds under a clear sky. It is a land best reached on the back of a famous New Zealand station bred horse.

Tours range from NZ$70 for a half day trip to NZ$1750 for the most deluxe 10-day trip. Accommodations range from camping to country hotels and farmstays. For more information, contact:

website:www.horseback.co.nz

or E-mail: stanleyr@xtra.co.nz

or Ph 011 643 314 4204.

For general information on more than 65 riding trekking and equestrian training centers in NZ, Ph 011 647 849 0678 or fax 011 647 849 9034.

FLOWER SHOW ATTRACTS INTERNATIONAL ATTENTION

The Ellerslie Flower Show to be held in Auckland November 25-29 is the premier horticulture event in the Southern Hemisphere, attracting over 60,000 visitors annually.

Because of the keen interest visitors have in New Zealand gardens (46% of tourists visit a botanical garden or take a garden tour), the New Zealand Tourist Board and General Travel joined this year to market the show internationally.

SPECIAL DATES, July-Sept 1998

July 4-19 Primary & secondary school Holidays

NIFTY, OVER FIFTY TOURS

The 1998 Nifty, Over Fifty tour was a great success. Seventeen participants went hiking, swimming with dolphins, whale watching, jet boating, eating exploring and generally enjoying themselves throughout New Zealand. Seven stayed on to walk the Routeburn Track.

In 1999, the Birds, Bush and Gardens Tour will take the place of the Nifty trip. This tour will be a combination of bush and forest walks, garden visits, and bird watching, along with the scenic highlights. A special event for the group will be spending three nights on Stewart Island.

If you are interested in any of the many group tours or if you would like a special interest itinerary designed just for you, please give a calI to Jan Coyie, Kiwi Pac Tours, 1919 Chula Vista Dr.. Belmont CA 94002. Tel. (650) 595-2090; fax (650) 591-7721. E-mail kiwipac@aol.com

NEWZGRAM the News Aerogramme of New Zealand

(Newzgram is a news publication produced for Kiwis living abroad [and those of us who live elsewhere but love NZ]. For more information or a free sample, write Newzgram, P0 Box 3882, Christchurch NZ. Tel. (64) 3 352 5911, Fax (64) 3 352 5411.)

From Newzgram:

A new community wage is to replace unemployment benefits from the beginning of October.

Under the new scheme, announced in late April, unemployed people will have to be available for community work, training or other "organised activity" for up to 20 hours a week to earn their community wage.

Employment Minister Peter McCardle says the new deal treats job seekers as people rather than numbers. "It will help keep job seekers connected to the workplace and community, to maintain their motivation, and prevent of confidence, skills and self esteem."

People receiving the community wage will have to sign a contract. If they are offered community work, training or organised activity and don't participate, they won't get paid. Participation will only be voluntary for people aged 60 or more. Community work is defined as "unpaid work that is of benefit to the community or the environment, rather than to private businesses or individuals." The Coalition

Government says community work should not displace current or future paid workers, and that job seekers will be matched to work and training that suits them.

From Newzgram:

Kiwi ingenuity saves kakapo: Kiwi ingenuity helped save the life of a kakapo chick which became distressed while being flown to Christchurch in late April. Airline staff used a disposable cup to modify an oxygen mask which they fitted on the bird. Sinbad was the smallest of three chicks hatched at the Maud Island bird-rearing facility in the Marlborough Sounds. He was being taken to another centre in Te Anau after it was noticed that his mother was not coping with all her chicks. Sinbad recovered after his high altitude ordeal, and completed his journey by car.

NEW ZEALAND 2000

Every morning inhabitants of Gisbome, a wee city in the North Island of New Zealand, ana the eastemmost city on the planet, are the first to see the sun rise. This means that they will be among the first to celebrate the dawn of the year 2000.

Now you have the opportunity to join them by signing up for the 2000 "First to the Sun" bicycle tour which will cover a spectacular route from Auckland to Gisbome from December 18, 1999 to January 6, 2000.

The ride is for moderately experienced cyclists and their non-riding partners and is limited to the first 2,000 people who sign up. If you miss this ride, you have to wait 1,000 years for the next onel For more information write to: 2000 "First to the Sun", Box 266, 334 State St., Suite 106-266, Los Altos CA 94022

Please note there is an Internet Maori language dictionary website with a great query system:

www.learningmedia.co.nz/nz/nd/ndindex.htm

Also, please note that your KIWIphile FILE editor now has an e-mail address should you wish to communicate in that way: KiwiET1@aol.com

READERS - Please send in articles and letters for the next issue. I need them by August 1st. Thank you.

KIA ORA!!