Volume XI, No. 4

JUNE 1999

COME ON OVER - THE WINTER'S FINE

- From West of the Alps

Ask West Coasters what they like about living on the west side of the alps, and the reasons are sure to include the winters.

It's during the time from late autumn to early spring that the Coast really sparkles. While southerlies and easterlies send easterners and southerners shivering for another layer of waterproofs, this part of New Zealand will be protected by the mountains and enjoying fine, surprisingly mild weather.

That provides plenty of opportunity to enjoy a fabulous natural and historical environment. Walking on anything from a beach to a glacier is an obvious option, but there are many more—such as angling, boating, caving, driving, exploring, flying, golfing, horse riding, ice climbing—just about a complete alphabet of activities in fact.

Cooler temperatures enhance the views, particularly of the mountains, and if the weather does turn sour there are plenty of things to do indoors as well, inspecting a remarkable range of visitor centres, art and craft outlets, museums and other attractions.

If you're in New Zealand for the skiing, a West Coast visit can be easily slotted in, too. The glacier region offers the rare thrill of heli-skiing, while other parts of the Coast are only hours away from the snowy fields of Marlborough, Canterbury and Otago.

So make the most of the cooler months by checking out what the West of the South Island has to offer.

NAPIER - THE ART DECO CITY

"a small New Zealand town that seems sometimes fictional"

Far from the world's great population centres and from the European and American cities where 20th Century design evolved lies a small city that is unique. Napier, New Zealand, was rebuilt in the early 1930s following a massive Richter 7.9 earthquake.

Subsequent fires destroyed most of its commercial heart. By the end of the decade, Napier was the newest city on the globe.

Nowhere else can you see such a variety of buildings in the styles of the 1930s ---- Stripped Classical, Spanish Mission, and above all, Art Deco, the style of the 20th Century—in such a concentrated area. And Napier's Art Deco is unique, with Maori motifs and the buildings of Louis Hay, admirer of the great Frank Lloyd Wright.

Enhanced by palms and the angular Norfolk Island pines which are its trademark, and bounded by fertile fruit and grape growing plains, dramatic hills and the shores of the South Pacific, beautiful Napier is the centre of the Hawke's Bay region. In Napier you can enjoy the legacy of its brave rebuilding and savour the spirit of the optimistic Art Deco era.

Hastings Art Deco — Hastings, Napier's neighboring city, is only 20 kms away and it was also stricken by the 1931 earthquake. It has a wealth of buildings in the same styles as Napier.

Why Art Deco? The Art Deco style was at the height of its popularity for buildings in 1931. Its clean simple lines and base relief decoration suited the needs of the new city.

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Art Deco was fashionable. With its past destroyed

Napier looked ahead and chose a style associated with Manhattan, the movies and modernism.

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Art Deco was safe. With its emphasis on low relief

surface decoration, Art Deco forsook the elaborate applied ornament that had fallen from the buildings in the earthquake and caused so many deaths and injuries.

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Art Deco was cheap. Its relief stucco ornament was

an economical way to beautify buildings during the low point of the Great Depression.

What is Art Deco? The style we now call Art Deco originated in Europe in the early years of the 20th Century, and its heyday was from 1920 to 1940. It became widely known following the great Exposition

des Arts Modernes Decoratifs et Industriels, held in Paris in 1925 and from which its name was ultimately derived. By the late 1930s it was in its streamlined phase and after World War 2, the International Style, devoid of all decoration, held sway. Not until the late 1960s did people begin to rediscover it and take it seriously.

Art Deco expressed all the vigor and optimism of the roaring twenties, and the idealism and escapism of the grim thirties.

BACK TO NEW ZEALAND WITH THE BAIERS

- by Kitty Baier

Our third trip to New Zealand began with a flight to Australia. We had arranged a timeshare exchange for a resort on the Gold Coast called "Sandy Point Beach Resort" so we sought bargain airfares. We found a special rate for a 90-day maximum stay via Air New Zealand for $749 each, with return from Auckland.

We departed January 25, lost the 26th as we crossed the Date Line, so arrived in Sydney early on the morning of the 27th. Our Affordable Travel Club hostess had made a reservation for us to take the Airport Coach to her home in Fairlight, which is across the bay near Manley Beach. The fare was just $22 and the ride quite pleasant.

We stayed in her home overlooking the water, enjoying the many birds. The following morning, our hostess drove us around to see more of the area, the beach and some of the native flowers, then dropped us at the harbor to catch the ferry into Sydney. We explored Circular Quay and the Opera House that day.

The second morning we once again boarded the ferry but when we reached the harbor, we walked to the bus stop to catch the Explorer Bus ($25 for an all day ride) so we saw a lot of Sydney, including several beaches and the shops in the area called "The Rocks".

The third day, we went to Kings Cross to pick up our rental car which we would keep until we turned it in at Brisbane Airport. After we left the city, we drove through many forests of gum trees. Later we saw pasture lands with horses and cattle, but no sheep. We traveled as far as Kempsey and stopped overnight at a Best Western Motel.

We were surprised to see sugar cane and bananas growing in fields as we drove further north. We continued on through Surfers Paradise to the town called Labrador. where the timeshare was located.

The villa we had traded for was lovely. Located on the 7th floor, with balconies overlooking the

broadwater beach, we had two bedrooms, two bathrooms and a full kitchen. Although the weather was warm and humid we had a breeze, so no need for air conditioning.

We have dear friends whose youngest daughter is employed as a trainer at Sea World Australia, so I called Katie and we met her and her boyfriend for dinner. We went to "Holy Mackerel" and ate Moreton Bay Bugs, a kind of crustacean similar to crayfish. Delicious!

The following day we met Kate at Sea World and I got to swim with a beautiful bottle-nosed dolphin. That was a wonderful experience, one of the highlights of this vacation.

On Thursday we drove in rain up to the Mount Tambourine area on a narrow winding road. We saw many rosellas and parrots at O'Reillys, then stopped at an alpaca farm.

The week passed quickly and by Saturday we were ready to head for our next stay in Kenmore, a suburb of Brisbane. Our hosts, Ian and Marion, have a lovely home.

Next day we took the City Cat, a ferry that crosses back and forth over the river. We stopped to explore various sites in Brisbane, and purchased mementos at the local street fair.

We took our host and hostess to Valentines for a very good buffet dinner, but the day trip we had planned, to the Glasshouse Mountains, was cancelled because of weather, as the showers became a heavy downpour.

The trip to the airport in pounding rain was nerve wracking. We flew to Christchurch (NZ) where we were happy to see sunshine. We rented a second automobile and took off immediately for Akaroa where we had made reservations at a B&B in a rural setting.

Akaroa was originally a French settlement and it retains a quaint, small town atmosphere. We boarded the boat in the harbour for a 2 hour cruise that was fun. We saw penguins, a seal, and many playful Hector's dolphins. At night we felt at home with Gwen and Murray and their friendly dingo dog.

Our second stop on South Island was with friends who have recently purchased a deer and cattle farm near Waimate. New Zealand could certainly use some of that Australian rain! Stock is already requiring hay even though it is still summer, so Ken and June sold 45 head of cattle they really wanted to keep for another year. The pastures are more parched than the California hills get every summer. There hasn't been a good soaking rain in over a year!

Bob enjoyed working with Ken on the farm. They fixed a pump to resume irrigation. We went into Timaru to have dinner at the Returned Servicemen's Association, and even danced a few dances!

The next morning we drove to Tasman Downs to visit the sheep station on beautiful blue Lake Pukaki. We had stayed there in 1992. All sheep have been sold because of foot fungus so instead of 3000 sheep, there are cattle grazing.

Our final stop on South Island was in Mt. Somers, near Ashburton. At "The Tin Shed" we bought some sheepskins, which we had shipped home. Although postage is expensive, one avoids the GST by shipping, so it balances out.

The flight to Auckland was special because we were upgraded to Business Class. Good thing we cannot ordinarily afford such travel because the seats were so oversized that my feet failed to touch the floor!

We picked up the third rental at Avis and proceeded to a farmstay near Raglan on the Tasman Sea. This was a delightful stop and one where we would have enjoyed more than a one-night stay.

The following morning we took the scenic drive into Raglan and found a shop where very reasonable local crafts were sold. After a few purchases, we moved on to Rotorua. There we found the Walker's granny flat that we so enjoyed on our previous visits. It is located in Owhata, near the airport.

After a restful night, we drove to Ngongotaha (a suburb in the northern area of Rotorua). Our friend Phyll has a new home there. This is a small community where the people appear to be especially friendly.

A highlight of our stay on North Island was when our host took us fishing on Lake Rotorua. We caught beautiful rainbow trout!! We brought them "home" and Ike fired up the barbecue to smoke our fish. Yum!

We next went to Tauranga to stay with Beth and Roger, fishing buddies from 1992 and 1995. They have purchased an older home and have fixed it up beautifully. With Beth as driver, we saw a lot of the Tauranga area. Much new construction is going on. We visited a Flea Market where I bought a NZ Air flight bag. A tour of the Kiwi Fruit Gardens was educational and fun.

Next stop was Mt. Manganui where David and Colleen, friends who have stayed with us in our home in Anaheim, have a gorgeous new place at the beach. Lots of activity there on the weekend,

but by Monday it was peaceful and lovely. We walked downtown to explore the shops. We ate fish 'n chips at the club near the wharf.

On the 23rd we returned our rental car to the airport in Auckland and were picked up by friends from Silver Fern Tape Club. Des and Connie were charming hosts. Next morning they drove us out to their "batch" at the beach in Hula, which is a pretty area. They dropped us back at the International Airport in Auckland.

Our plane was late departing and stopped to take on a new crew in Fiji so the 14 hour flight was extended. We landed in Los Angeles almost two hours later than scheduled and it took another two hours to clear Customs and catch the shuttle home. We were weary travelers after our delightful holiday!

We continue to hold New Zealand as our favorite destination. The exchange rate is very favorable so it is an economical place to visit. We heartily endorse tourism across the Pacific at this time! We love the country's many beauties, but it is the PEOPLE that make it so extra special!

KIWIS MADE AN IMPRESSION IN WARTIME NEW YORK by Patricia Morgan in Listener

During World War II, I was a canteen hostess

at the St. Nicholas Church Parish House—near New York's famous parade route, Fifth Avenue. It was located just across the street from the Rockefeller Centre—then a favourite New York City tourist attraction—and hosted GIs from all the Allied countries.

One of my assignments, besides being a dance instructor, was to check out the upper-floor lounge room and visit with any GIs who were not into the dancing on the main floor. On this evening, I found a skinny, quiet lad sitting all alone. I sat down to chat, noting his RAF attire and thinking that he was yet another British airman. But no. He was, as he earnestly explained, a "Kiwi". And thus I met my first New Zealander.

He asked me rather sadly if I knew this or that about New Zealand. Alas, back in those days, New Zealand was just some place off Australia to most Americans. I was determined to brush up on at least a few facts about New Zealand, then I'd be better prepared to chat properly with the next New Zealander who showed up at our canteen.

About a week later, the phone rang in the Rockefeller Centre tour office, where I worked during the day as a tourist guide. The director answered it almost standing at attention.

almost standing at attention. Hanging up, he announced, "That was Mr. Rockefeller's executive secretary. The Prime Minister of New Zealand, with his wife and entourage, are on their way down from Nelson Rockefeller's office! They want to take a guided tour of the centre." I waved my hand to volunteer, saying, "I've just read a whole book about New Zealand, and I'll be glad to take him around."

Our first stop was to look at a mounted aerial photo of the Rockefeller Centre. Across from the centre's eastern boundary on Fifth Avenue, the view included New York's famous St. Patrick's Cathedral. I interrupted my usual spiel, beamed at the Prime Minister and commented, "It looks a bit like your cathedral in Christchurch, doesn't it?"

Delighted, the Prime Minister turned to his entourage, and said, "This is the first American I've met in non-official circles who even knows where New Zealand is."

Prime Minister Fraser, who invited me to join his group for lunch at the Rockefeller Centre's British restaurant, was in the US to help in establishing the United Nations Charter, and he was to become increasingly well known in the US for his efforts to protect the role of smaller nations. During lunch, he asked me questions about American concerns, and I responded with openness and some political naivete.

Near the end of World War II, a whole crew of New Zealand airmen showed up in our canteen. They were chatty lads, full of exuberance. A circle of American GIs had gathered in the upstairs lounge, and with them some USO hostesses, including myself. One of the New Zealand crew was dark-skinned, and the cheerful New Zealand RAF crew chief introduced him to one and all. "This here is m'buddy, m'pal," he said, casually placing his arm around the shoulder of the first Maori any of us had ever seen.

This was at a time when our military was not integrated, so this easy, natural camaraderie was a "big deal" for all of us. When real integration finally did come to our armed services, I'll bet that, like me, some of those Gis present remembered the New Zealand lads, who were way ahead of us on the path of brotherhood and true integration.

SPORTS UPDATE- Stephen Mangum

New Zealand recently hosted South Africa in a five test match series in cricket. The visitors prevailed 3-2, thereby eliminating NZ from the next Cricket World Cup. The Super 12 rugby season is under way.

This hugely popular competition is in its fourth year and features twelve provincial teams from Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. The Otago Highlanders are the favorites to win this year's title. The Auckland Blues won the championship the first two years but lost to the Canterbury Crusaders, 20-13, on a last-minute converted try at Eden Park in 1998.

Meanwhile, the New Zealand's national team, the All-Blacks, are trying to regroup after an abysmal 1998 season. With a record of 2-5 it was their worst year since 1949. With Clintonesque agility, coach John Hart somehow retained his job. Everything that could go wrong went wrong both on and off the field.

The urgency is apparent as the fourth Rugby

World Cup commences in October. The test match

schedule, pre-World Cup is as follows:

Date - Opponent - Location

June 18 - Manu Samoa - Albany

June 26 - France - Wellington

July 10 - South Africa - Dunedin

July 24 - Australia - Auckland

Aug. 7 - South Africa - Pretoria, S.A.

Aug. 28 - Australia - Sydney, Aust.

The test matches against Australia and South Africa comprise the fourth annual Tri-Nations Tournament, formalizing the decades-old rivalry. The Bledisloe Cup is awarded annually to the Australia-New Zealand winner and may include one or more test matches.

Auckland is bracing for hordes of visitors for the America's Cup, with the Challenge Rounds commencing in October. Of the fifteen entrants, Sir Peter Blake expects about twelve to actually start the compe- tition on the beautiful Huaraki Gulf.

In addition to all the arrivals for the yachting competition, the City of Sails is also hosting the APEC gabfest in September. An estimated six to seven thousand government officials, security types, business reps, news media, and assorted hangers-on and policy wonks are expected to spend about a week discussing economic issues affecting nations in or around the Pacific.

(Editor: In addition to the above, Mr. Mangum mentions this: "Those war memorials throughout Australia and New Zealand are certainly a powerful and visual reminder of those who gave so much. Incidentally, the major sporting teams from down under, such as the All Blacks and Australia's Wallabies often pause at appropriate sites to honor their war dead while traveling in Europe, as reported below on the Internet.")

WALLABIES IN BATTLEFIELD TRIBUTE TO DIGGERS (Nov. 1998)

The Wallabies will tonight make a special visit to the World War I battlefields of Northern France to lay a wreath to honour the 80th anniversary of the Armistice.

The Australian team, on their way from Paris to Lille, will stop at the village of Villers-Bretonneux, where they will be met by the local mayor. The team will visit the Australian National Memorial, the Adelaide Cemetery and the Anzac Museum.

The team will also take a tour of the battlefields where thousands of Australian and Allied soldiers died during the Great War.

During the Wallabies' farewell training session in Sydney yesterday, the players paused for a minute's silence.

"I'm pleased we had the minute's silence," said captain John Eales. "it makes everyone think about what has happened before us."

CHRISTCHURCH REMEMBERS THE FALLEN (The Press On Line April 26, 1990)

Age may have wearied them, the years slowed them down, but the old soldiers at the Anzac Day dawn parade marched tall and full of respect for fallen comrades.

As the veterans marched to the Cenotaph in Cathedral Square yesterday, around 3000 people— many arriving at the Square well before the service began—gathered around the monument.

Children, some not much older than five, sat along the concrete edging skirting the monument, quietly watching the old soldiers march before them.

The commanding officer of the United States Air Force's Air National Guard contingent in Christchurch, Colonel Richard Saburro, read the Anzac dedication penned by Digger L. E. Vernazoni, DCM.

As the grey shadows of the dawn appeared over Anzac Cove 84 years ago, the men of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps received their baptism of fire as they joined the fight for justice and freedom, it said, "We pray that their fight, and their sacrifice may not have been in vain.

Old soldiers stood straight, eyes staring forward—perhaps a little misty-as the Last Post sounded, echoing around the silent Square.

More than 330 New Zealand defence staff serving in 33 countries overseas were to commemorate Anzac Day in some way, the Defence Force said. Wing Commander John Seward said the six medics

in the joint service medical team serving in Macedonia were planning a dawn service at Stenkovick refugee camp, near Skopje.

TELL THEM YOU SAW IT IN

THE KIWIphile!!!

SOME PACKAGES THAT EASE

YOUR WAY INTO NEW ZEALAND

The Youth Hostel Assn. of New Zealand (YHANZ) has introduced budget gateway packages to help travel-weary international adventurers land softly in New Zealand.

If you are arriving via Auckland, the Auckland City Discover Pass, which costs $65, provides transportation from the airport to the 153-bed, centrally located City YHA; three nights' accommodation in a twin-share room; an Explorer Bus Pass (the bus travels on an hourly circuit of the city, stopping at 10 major tourist sites); plus a return ferry ride to the village of Devonport, where there are shops and restaurants.

The Christchurch City Discover Pass, which costs $60, includes transportation from the airport to the 127-bed modern Central YHA, three nights' accommodation in a twin share room, a day pass for the historic sightseeing trams that circle the city (stopping at major attractions every 20 to 30 minutes) and a pass for a scenic gondola ride.

YHANZ is a national network of 59 budget- accommodation hostels affiliated with Hostelling International. The YHANZ network is considered one of the best in the world. In addition to gateway packages, YHANZ also has arranged packages that incorporate coach and rail, car rental or backpacker bus transportation with vouchers for use in any of its hostels. The idea is to provide basic accommodation and transportation but leave the independent traveler with lots of flexibility.

You can purchase a package with youth hostel accommodations and a pass for the national backpacker bus service, Magic Travellers Network http://www.magicbus.co.nz.The vouchers can be used in any of the YHANZ hostels whenever you want, and the bus pass is valid for six months. The package also includes transportation from the international airport when you arrive.

Magic's passengers are picked up and dropped off at hostel doors. But the company provides more than transportation; the driver-guide also makes stops at tourist sites en route. You can take up to six months to

complete your journey. Buses serve each stop at least twice a week (more often in summer).

The main competitor to Magic Travellers Net- work is Kiwi Experience http://www.ozex.com.au, which tends to draw younger independent travelers and can, because of its size, provide more route options and, depending on the route, more frequent service.

The YHANZ packages must be purchased before you arrive in New Zealand, and you must be an affiliated member of Hostelling International. For more details or information, or for information on YHANZ car rental, coach/rail packages or three-day hiking/sea kayaking trips, contact YHANZ National Reservation Centre, P.O. Box 68-149, Auckland, NZ; telephone 011-64-9-303-9524, Internet: http://www.yha.org.nz.

SEVEN DAYS ON SEADOWNS by Judy Miller

(Seadowns is the country home of Judy's friends Colin and Lynne Gibson. They used to take guests on farm stays).

20 February 1996 — I got coffee in bed this morning, a blatant bribe by Lynne to get me up and started as this is going to be a busy day. Got home last night from the "social club tour" and we are all moving slowly. Cloudy and overcast. Cohn left early to do farm chores while Lynne and I headed to town to return the van and run errands. We discovered 4 new baby pigeons in the pigeon house this morning so stopped at Stringers Farm Supply for pigeon food. Other stops at the chemist for bug bite medication, butchers for chops and then did a huge grocery shopping in preparation for Colin's 50th birthday party on Saturday. We enjoyed lunch out:

quiche and lasagne, huge slabs of carrot cake and espresso. I drove the Jaguar home while Lynne took the truck and picked up the antique bedstead she had purchased the previous week. Back at home we put away groceries and unloaded pigeon food and the bedstead and mattress. Put in a load of laundry and started tea (dinner) so it would be ready when Colin came in. A cool evening and I was glad for my heating pad and down duvet.

21 February — The sun was shining through the lace curtains when I woke up this morning. Again, coffee in bed, what a luxury! The garden was lovely today and I enjoyed the warm sunshine and view of the ocean while hanging laundry on the line and gathering flowers. Cohn crutching and vaccinating ewes. Lynne put me to work frosting cakes. It was the first time I had rolled out frosting for a cake and I made quite a mess of the first layer. The second layer went better and the cake looked

quite nice after that part went on. Cohn and the wool buyer came in for a cuppa about 10:00 so we set out a pot of tea and tins of bickies and just kept working. Cleaned the house, blanched and packed vegetables and hung two more lines of laundry. Lunch was sliced ham, bread, fried potatoes and avocado with more bickies and tea for dessert.

The insurance man came by after lunch to update the farm policy due to the recent acquisition of new property. Seadowns is now 1100 acres with 2800 Romney ewes and 2000 lambs plus the rams, approximately I for every 80-100 ewes. An additional 700 ewes will be purchased for the new acreage. Hereford cattle and Dorset Down sheep round out the beast count. Colin runs the entire operation with no full time help and his "computer" is a small spiral notebook and stubby pencil that he carries in his shirt pocket.

After lunch the pace picked up some. Colin and I mixed vaccine and I watched while he inoculated a paddock full of sheep. The new garage was given a coat of paint to match the farmstead and then Lynne and I sat in the sunroom and folded clothes fresh off the line. They smelled wonderful! The damp ones were placed on the drying rack and hoisted above the wood stove or placed in the drying closet next to the boiler until they were ready to put away. The bright sunshine is coming in the open windows, the pigeons are muttering outside on their perch and Thomas the cat is curled up in her basket fast asleep. All is right with the world.

22 February — Another beautiful but cool morning. I had to get out of bed to get my coffee this morning. Colin was out early draughting (weighing and count- ing) ewes and crutching (shearing sheep backsides) hoggets and two teeth sheep. Bruce, a young man from the area, was there to help. Sandra, another friend from town, came to help Lynne and me. We washed all the windows and under the eaves, made cheese balls, ironed, and gave the house a good general cleaning. A brief stop for lunch and then we were at it again.

I finally had had enough of housework so headed for the sheep yard where I found Cohn and Bruce still busy crutching in the woolshed (they handled over 700 sheep today). It is hard work. The dirty wool from sheep backsides (dags) needed to be spread to dry so 1 took the job and soon the woolshed floor was covered in stinking tufts of wool. Housework was much less smelly but also much less interesting. The shed was filled with the heat, smell and bleating of sheep, the barking of dogs, the buzzing of shears, and the music of Elton John and The Eagles.

How were we ever going to get this place clean enough to hold a party? I started cleaning the parts

covered in sheep stuff; the sink, counter, and window sills. The rest will have to come later.

Lynne and I fixed smoko and had just sat down with a glass of wine when Graham came to finish painting the garage. The wine went back into the fridge and we got busy again masking the windows and helping with the painting. Col's brother Dod arrived for "tea" and two boys arrived to mow the lawns. Colin went to inspect fences and gates on the new property.

The evening was warm but foggy at sea. Lynne and I started "tea" and finally got our wine during the process while Col and Dod enjoyed a beer in the living room. We were in bed before dark — 9:00 p.m.

23 February — A windy, beautiful morning and I was up in time to take my cup of coffee into the lounge and watch the sun rise over the Pacific. Helped Lynne make meatloaf. We used a milk bucket and more hamburger than I had ever seen, in one place at one time. Got the meatloaves and chicken in the oven to bake before breakfast. The family will start arriving this evening and meals need to be ready in addition to the food for the party.

Laundry, cleaning, changing beds, cooking. Lynne put dozens of sausage rolls in the oven and I went to town to run errands. Dropped off sandwich making items for Katherine Paterson who is going to help with the party preparations. I also picked up an air mattress and tent for the younger people to sleep in on the weekend. Lynne had sent some sheep posters to have laminated for wall decorations and a grocery list, so I was just busy enough. Did have time to look for souvenirs, mail postcards and enjoy a nice lunch out at the Wool Store Café in old town Oamaru.

Back at Seadowns I was assigned the task of cutting and arranging flowers for the guest rooms. Tough duty, considering it was a warm, sunny after- noon. Cohn cleared the dags and debris from the woolshed and gave the floor a good washing before heading for town with a load cf wool. He will bring back a caravan (camping trailer) to use as an extra guest room. Gibson son Steve and friend Angie arrived and assembled the new bed while Graham finished painting the garage. The woolshed floor got another scrubbing but nothing is going to help the smell. Gibson sons Matt and Scott and Gibson daughter Kim with friend Al arrived, and we started going through old family pictures. Cold cuts and salads were laid out in the kitchen and everyone just helped themselves as they arrived.

24 February — Warm. bright a.m. and everyone to their respective jobs early. Again I got the pleasant task of cutting and arranging flowers and went

scouting for interesting containers—milk buckets, old jars, etc. Party prep is heating up. Col and I took some time off and I finally got a tour of the new property.

The family all chipped in and had a new sign designed and painted for "Seadowns Stud", Romney, Dorset Down and Herefords. We all gathered at the entrance to the property where the sign was unveiled and appropriately christened and toasted with champagne.

Lynne's sister and family arrived early afternoon bringing with them 19 year old Cas, the new "pony" at Seadowns.

The woolshed is now as clean as it is going to be with posters hung, tables set up, the bar arranged and the now dry floor sprinkled with Mystique talcum powder to make dancing easier. It is an interesting blend of smells.

The boys returned from tcwn with the liquid refreshments about the same time the serving crew arrived. The music duo set up their instruments on the same shearing board where only hours before Colin and Bruce had been wrestling sheep—and began to play. Guests started arriving around 8:00 p.m. and gravitated between the bar, food buffet and dance floor. It turned out to be a chilly evening so the kerosene heater had been a good idea after all. Kiwis know how to party and I finally made my way to bed about 2:00 a.m., and heard Lynne come in around 3:00 and Colin at 5:00. I'd say the party was a success.

25 February — There is not much to write about today. Needless to say, no one was up early. Took turns wandering into the kitchen for coffee, tea and toast before starting chores. By earhy afternoon, the woolshed was once again fit only for sheep, and the tables, heater, caravan and beds had been returned. We were going to barbecue but decided it was just too much work, so ate leftovers and enjoyed the warm sunshine in the garden.

26 February — A new, less busy week has started. Cohn was off ear!y to do a day of instruction at shearing school. I took the Jaguar and picked up Dod at the Gibson homeplace and took him to the bus stop in Oamaru.

Lynne and I left mid morning for Tokarahi for a day of spinning. It was another beautiful day and the drive enjoyable. Gathered with about 20 ladies from around the region in the old Tokarahi Hall and we were greeted warmly and given lots of good advice on wool and spinning. Enjoyed a finger lunch and tea before heading back to Seadowns for dinner and a quiet evening.

This was my last day at Seadowns as Lynne, Steve and I will spend the next day and a half in

Dunedin before I catch the bus back to Christchurch and my flight home. While the week was exceptionally busy due to the festivities surrounding Cohn's birthday, it is not unlike other weeks I have enjoyed with the Gibsons. There is always something happening, always people coming and going, and always the day to day running of a large working station. However, there is always time to play.

BBC RATES NZ TOP FOR MILLENNIUM - The Press On-Line

New Zealand millennium celebrations could top international television ratings if the BBC extends its new year broadcast.

The BBC has announced possible plans to extend its coverage of New Zealand celebrations during its 2000 Today Millennium Day broadcast.

Millennium Office manager Sharon van Gulik said discussions were being held between TV3 and producers of the BBC programme.

"Interest in New Zealand as the first place to greet the dawn of the new millennium is extraordinarily high," she said.

RECOMMENDED READING

Banks Peninsula — A Touring Guide/Christchurch and Canterbury — Set of 2 books - A touring guide to the Banks Peninsula, describing roads, beaches, tracks, historic places and how to get to them. PLUS an information-packed full colour book describing the province of Canterbury and the city of Christchurch. Both books include many colour photos and maps.

Stepping Back — Stepping Back is a book for people who love exploring. It is a guide to the gems of South Island history, designed to help you fossick in New Zealand's past without getting overwhelmed by it. It's not about museum history, but what's out there in the streets, paddocks and back country of New Zealand.

Behind every site there is a good story, and Mark Pickering has dug deep to uncover the human face of much of the South Island's past. His explorations range from the hop kilns of Nelson to a Maori argillite factory high on a misty spur. There is the starlight-and-storms tale of a weather-beaten musterer's hut, a cemetery half-full of children's graves, and a gold-miners' water race with a story as serpentine as the race itself. There is humour in the yarn of a canny whale-catcher, and tragedy on a lonely and lovely beach where the first European murder took place.

As in his other books, Mark Pickering shows a keen eye for the landscape, and he melds the hurley- burley of history with descriptions of the enduring landforms of the South Island in a colourful, and eminently readable text.

The book details over 50 interesting walks (and sometimes drives) throughout the South Island. It advises on the practicalities of each expedition, with maps of every walk, and is fully illustrated with historical and modern photographs. A must for the adventurous!

The Reed Field Guide to New Zealand Wildlife — New Zealand is famous for the variety of its scenery and wild places; within a few short hours the traveller can move from desert to rainforest, from seashore to mountain range. Each environment has its own wildlife: its birds, animals, insects and — sometimes — marine creatures. In this information handbook New Zealand's most experienced wildlife photographer, Geoff Moon, describes and illustrates the fauna found in each habitat — from the whales of Kaikoura to the kea of the Alps. He also includes a fascinating chapter on New Zealand's protected offshore islands, where some of the rarest creatures live: tuatara., takahe, kakapo, and saddleback.

Geoff Moon's magnificent photographs, all in colour, show a remarkable sensitivity to and respect for New Zealand's wild creatures. Whether for armchair browsing or for the glovebox or backpack, this book will prove to be both a good companion and an invaluable guide.

(You may have to buy these books in New Zealand, or perhaps on- line at: productenquiries@Whitcoulls.co.nz

AIRLINES WORK TO BEAT Y2K FAILURES - Colin Espiner, THE PRESS On-Line

Airlines ate developing contingency plans to deal with the potential failure of air traffic control systems around the world on December 31.

Air New Zealand and Quantas say they are working on contingency plans that include alternative stop-over points on long-haul routes to the northern hemisphere.

The South Pacific was of particular concern because of the number of charter and special flights that would be in the air on December 31.

Grounding the world's aircraft was a physical impossibility because there was not enough tarmac at airports on which to hold them. About 80 per cent of the world's fleet was in the air at any one time, Mr. Harbison said.

Air New Zealand spokesman Alistair Carthew said the airline was planning to be in the air on December 31 "at this stage". It was spending $17 million to ensure its own systems were compliant and would rely on checks underway by the International Civil Aviation Organisation on every airport and air traffic control system in the world.

If the ICAO found fault with certain countries or airspace, Air New Zealand would have contingency plans in place, Mr. Carthew said. The airline flies to Singapore, Hong Kong and Japan direct and also uses them as stop-overs on its European long-haul flights.

An industry-wide body comprising representatives of Air New Zealand, Ansett, the Airways Corporation, Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch airports, and the Civil Aviation Authority has been set up to ensure air-traffic safety in New Zealand over the millenium changeover.

Christchurch Airport operations manager Hugh McCarroll said the committee expected "a certain amount of hysteria" about flying on December 31 but comprehensive checking systems would be in place. He agreed grounding air traffic world-wide was not an option because of the sheer number of aircraft and the schedules they kept.

Civil Aviation Authority spokesman Martyn Gosling said all airlines flying in New Zealand would be required, over the next few months, to demonstrate to the CAA that they were safe for the turn of the millenium.

SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS

Do you have some thoughts to share with fellow travelers to New Zealand? Please send them in and we'll print them in the next KIWIphile FILE.

Thank you.

THE NELSON FOOD BOWL

Sunshine served up on a plate — Naomi O'Connor

(Naomi O'Connor is the guide book editor. Additional information from Judy Finn, partner in Neudorf Vineyards and Nelson cuisine enthusiast)

It doesn't get much better than tree ripened and just picked: the taste of sun melting in your mouth— and that's what you'll get in Nelson. In the 1990s the cuisine scene in Nelson is growing in an exciting way. Not only is there a wealth of primary produce—lush vegetables and fruit, meat, fish and shellfish but there is now a bevy of smart people turning the fantastic raw materials into gourmet products.

One of the best ways to taste the richness of this secondary Nelson produce is to wander Nelson city's Saturday market. Alongside the fresh fruit and veggie stalls some of them boasting extraordinary organic produce, are stalls selling superb products with evocative names like Hellish Relish and Green Thumb mustards.

Look at any part of the food chart, and you are likely to find someone in Nelson producing a fine example. Moutere Gold turns tree and vine ripened fruit into gourmet preserves. You can taste the bush in Anatoki honey, while Anathoth makes incredible fruity jam.

The Dallas establishment in Dovedale, which made their name in specialist breads, now makes yummy marinated and chilled olives. Extra good bread still comes daily from the Da Vinci bakery, Motueka, the (true) German-style breadman. Nelson is also the home of the country's main breadline Quality Bakeries started by the Goodman family. There's even cheese now — in 1997 production of soft rinded cheeses was due to start in a converted hop kiln outside Motueka.

Nelson holds the country's largest fishing port, and is home to Sealord., Talleys and the New Zealand King Salmon Company, as well as the stunning manuka-smoked fish of Mapua's Nature Smoke. The shallow beaches of Tasman and Golden Bay provide an abundance of shellfish; amongst them internationally recognised Nelson scallops, and green lipped mussels, crabs, cockles and oysters.

Out of the forests comes great game and off the farms, tender cervena, lamb and beef—and good bratwurst and frankfurters at the Nelson Market. On the dairy front, Tasman Milk Products' butters have been winning awards for years, and the company has diversified into speciality food products. In Nelson the Penguino Ice Cream Cafe makes fantastic gelato ice cream.

The crucial question is how to eat all this, and what to wash it down with? You have a choice: buy the bounty and go picnic, or let someone prepare it for you.

There are now over 40 establishments listed in the regional dining guide, covering a full range from cruisy bar and ethnic cooking to formal international cuisine. For a superb restaurant experience, try the Walnut Café in Richmond, named best restaurant in the region in 1996 and 1997. Other high quality establishments are Appelmans in Nelson, and for Japanese food, the Miyazu in the Copthorne Rutherford Hotel.

You won't want to miss the places that have a peculiarly Nelson style: the Boat Shed on Wakefield Quay, Jester House in Tasman, Nature Smoke in Mapua, Awaroa Lodge and Café (in the Abel Tasman), the Wholemeal Café in Takaka, Mussel Inn near Tukurua and the Old School House in Pakawau. All unforgettable experiences. In Nelson city, too, there's a happy variety of food stalls on the main street: including good sushi, falafel, and espresso.

All New Zealand knows of the naturally brewed beer from McCashin's Brewery in Stoke, but others too offer a special angle on Nelson's hop crop; try Harringtons on Beach Road, Richmond, or the house brews at the Mussel Inn in Golden Bay.

A small wine-growing area long overshadowed by the might of neighbouring Marlborough, Nelson is now coming into its own. Local winemakers point to a distinct Nelson taste, the result of long sun hours and unusually ripe fruit for New Zealand winemaking. In 1997 there were 11 vineyards producing here—look for Pelorus and Seifried (rieslings), Glovers (pinot noir), and Neudorf (chardonnay and riesling). And it is not only grapes that are being so transformed. Enza con- centrates fruit on a large scale, while Tasman Bay Juices and the fruit juices and wines of Tully Barden are notable specialist enterprises. Only one way to cope with such a surfeit really: pull into the next vineyard, stop at the next roadside stall, and taste Nelson for yourself.

TAILORED TRAVEL -

New Zealand Custom Tours

•

WHO:Robert and Joan Panzer, operating from

Rerenga Farm, rural homestay, in Thorpe (Dovedale) near Nelson, New Zealand, and Shawnna Brown, our North American liaison in Toronto, Canada.

•

WHAT:1. Personally guided, intimate, all inclusive

small luxury tours of up to 6 people.

2.

Custom designed itineraries, for FIT's. We plan the

itinerary and make all bookings and reservations. One time set fee upfront. Clients pay as they go directly to hosts• etc. They receive a comprehensive travelbook with detailed maps, distances, times and all contacts. Both services focus on what clients want. No "off the shelf' itinerary however modules only. A questionnaire is filled out to establish clients' requests, budget, etc., then an itinerary will be decided upon.

•

WHEN: Flexible departure dates. Usually booked

and planned months in advance, however it is always possible to "fit in" people on short notice.

• WHOM: Mainly upmarket clients from USA and

Canada. New enquiries from Singapore, India.

Either for a short tour (up to 10 days) or the most popular which is still the 20 day South Island "Quest".

• WHERE: We focus on the South Island with our "Quests" (tours). Can incorporate the North Island as well of course. One of our most special "Quests" is a 15 day winetour, North and South Island, specifically designed for Canadian company "Wine and Travel".

•

HOW: Marketing via contact in Toronto, Canada,

few targeted ads in North America, direct mailing, the internet and word of mouth referrals. Check our award winning website. Communication by e-mail, fax and phone.

Robert and Joan Panzer , Thorpe RD2, Wakefield, NZ. Phone: (64) 3 543 3825. Fax (64) 3 543 3640.

Email: Tailored@ts.co.nz

Website: http://webnz.com/nzct

North American contact : Shawnna Brown, 300 Eglinton Ave. East, Ste 606, Toronto, M4P, 1L5, Canada. Free phone 1-888 549 4563.

Dear Eva, I enjoy your newsletter immensely. What a find it is.

News and various tidbits about one of my absolutely favorite places are such a joy to read.

"New Zealand Literary Shrine" (Mar. '99) has a whole new world of reading and information opened for me.

Keep up the wonderful work!

Therese Gallo, New Jersey

(Editor: Due to the interest in Katherine Mansfield ["New Zealand Literary Shrine"]. I searched the Internet for more information. There is a good website http://www. buffnet.net/~starmist/links.htm with great photos and artwork. There's a book. "Katherine Mansfield" written by Rhoda B. Nathan. Whitcoulls in New Zealand can give you a list of several other books. PH 0800 732 363 or e-mail customerservice@whitcoulls.co.nz

KATHERINE MANSFIELD'S BIRTHPLACE WINS TOURISM AWARD (From Newzgram)

A Katherine Mansfield tourism attraction has won two awards from one of Asia's biggest travel groups, the Pacific Asia Travel Association. The Japanese association includes hotels, cruise lines, airlines and travel agencies among its members. The house was given a gold award for heritage attraction and one of the three grand awards for "best of show". The achievement is believed to be a first for New Zealand.

The Wellington house in which the short story writer was born in 1888 was opened to the public 100 years later, after being bought by a charitable trust formed for the purpose. It was little changed from pictures taken of it early in the 1 900s. Its restoration is now complete, and a heritage garden has also been planted.

Mansfield left New Zealand for Britain aged 19 years, never to return. Her stories were written in Europe, where she associated with writers such as Virginia Woolf and D. H. Lawrence. However, much of their flavour came from her formative years in this country. She died of tuberculosis in France when she was 35. In a letter written to her father not long before she died, she said, "New Zealand is in my very bones.

(Newzgram, P0 Box 22022, Khandallah, Wellington, NZ. Tel. (64) 4 4799 410. E-mail: Newzgram@xtra.co.nz

WILD QUEST - Gordon Mann, New Hampshire

I have just returned from New Zealand South Island Over 40s Nature/Walking Tour, Autumn Colours 1999, April 18, 1999 to May 3, 1999. It is operated by Erskine Sandilands, Wild Quest, c/o Motueka United Travel, P.O. Box 215, Motueka, NZ. Phone 64 3 528 6383; fax 64 3 528 8305. Cost was $NZ 1390, plus a food kitty of $NZ18O.

This was a very well run, reasonable way to see the South Island, starting from Nelson, then the West Coast, Central Otago, the Catlins, Hanmer Springs, and back to Nelson.

Accommodations were in lodges or cabins in motor camps with communal toilet and shower facilities. Each person brought a sleeping bag. Erskine did all the guiding, driving, and cooking. We all pitched in to help with the cleanup.

The walks we did varied from 1/2 hour to several hours. One could choose to go on them or not. Erskine has selected the walks for interesting flora, scenery and historic interest. Most of them were easy, only a few involved a good deal of uphill.

There were 10 participants ranging in age from the 50's to late 70's. All enjoyed walking and the outdoors in general. The nine other than 1 were all Kiwis from North Island. Five of us were repeat customers, which speaks well for Erskine.

Wild Quest also conducts South Island trips in February and March. I went on one in March 1998 which was just as good.

(Editor: I wish I could include the entire 5+ pages sent with Mr. Mann's trip report. It is mouth-watering! You can read it for yourself by contacting Wild Quest, address above).

In New Zealand a multi-million dollar estate is the subject of a legal battle after a farmer left $1 million to his two farm dogs!

SIXTEEN DAYS - NEW ZEALAND

AND AUSTRALIA — with pim Dodge

Reserve now for 16 exciting days, beginning October 18, 1999. There will be a PRE-tour extension on the South Island of New Zealand, and/or a POST- tour extension in Australia—Sydney and Cairns. These extensions can be tacked onto the 12-day basic tour.

Contact: pim Dodge, P.O. Box 769, Frankfort MI 49635. Phone 616-352-6013. pimd@benzie.com

KiwiNewZ.NewsZine INTERNET NEWSLETTER

You may subscribe to KiwiNewZ NewsZine

and have fun. Send a message to: mailto:newszine@KiwiNewZ.com or go on-line at: http://www.KiwiNewZ.com - From recent issues:

New Zealand Domestic Airlines:

Some good news in two upstart little airlines City Jet and Origin Pacific. A quick ring around of rates for a "7 day fare" from Blenheim to Wellington shows that City Jet is cheapest at $NZ79, Origin Pacific at $NZ89 with the two majors coming in at $NZ176. Ohhhh I love competition. Wot's more City Jet have said that they will offer $29 standby flights. FreePhone them on 0800 CITY JET (0800 248 953). Now what I want to know is when are they going to fly in to Queenstown?

Cruise ships disturb love-lives.

Hang on. What about the love boat? Not so say the Department of Conservation. In their submission to a draft coastal plan for Southland and Fiordland DOC told councillors that "cruise ships disturbed the love lives of Fiordland's dolphins and penguins. Says DOC planning supervisor Ken Murray, "The ships disturb blue nose dolphins' evening mating sessions and kept the shy fiordland crested penguins from their nests. The Southland Regional Council will take the next 14 months to consider 20 submissions on the love lives of the local wildlife. Hmmm. That sounds complicated.

FESTIVAL QUEENSTOWN WINTER - 10 July to 18 July, 1999

Among other events designed to inspire more wacky derring-do are the Cow Chip Throwing competition at Earnslaw Park; the Polar Challenge, which entails a plunge into the ice-cold waters of Lake Wakatipu; and the Suitcase Race, where people skim down the snowclad slopes on old suitcases. The most tumultuously contested race, however, calls for dogged determination. The Dog Derby, held on Coronet Peak, will feature over 60 canines and their owners around

Queenstown to participate in one of the most incongruous and hilarious spectacles anyone could ever hope to see on a skifield. Dogs and humans ride the quad chair lift to the top of the ski area, race downhill in a chaotic upheaval of snow, hands, knees, paws and tails, team up with each other (if at all) and demonstrate a few obedience skills. First dog to complete the course is the winner. Two hours later the 4-legged participants assemble at the Royal Oak Hotel, Arrowtown, with their handlers to noisily outdo one another in the Dog Barking competition.

There's so much more: The Outrageous arts and fashion awards; The Ball on the Titanic; Kids Ball; the Old Farts Ball; and on the final day the Top Blokes Final. Where else but in Kiwiland?!

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