Volume XV, No.4

JUNE 2003

WHERE THE WILD THINGS AREN'T

No monsters in the dark, no saber-toothed man-eaters-New Zealand has no indigenous land mammals. If we're to believe our evolutionary text books, the islands broke from Gondwanaland before mammals had evolved. But there are plentiful birds, lizards, frogs and marine critters like nowhere else in the world.

ANCIENT PATHWAY OPEN

FOR GUIDED WALKS

On the 10th December 2002 Cape Brett Walkways Ltd officially opened the 16 kilometre track for independent and guided walks

The ancient track in the Bay of Islands starts at the small seaside village Te Rawhiti and follows the seven peaks to the Cape Brett lighthouse. Experienced guides will share their knowledge and appreciation of nature, Maori history and culture with the walkers.

Company Director Peter Stuart says the Cape Brett team is looking forward to a busy season: "We are ready to show tourists this off-the-beaten-track part of New Zealand. People will be able to walk through native bush, enjoy spectacular ocean and island views and experience Maori culture. Walkers can either decide to do the eight hour Cape Brett track or choose from three half-day guided walks. We can organise water transport, land transport, hut bookings, and exclusive packages for couples or small groups. We hope to cater for most people's walking wishes."

Maori first named Cape Brett peninsula Rakaumangamanga mai Hawaiiki: branch of many tribes. The seven distinctive peaks that mark the peninsula's dragon-like spine are said to represent the seven waka (canoes) from the great migration on which Maori sailed to New Zealand from their mythical homeland of Hawaiiki 1000 years ago.

Further information: Cape Brett Walkways Ltd., P0 Box 149, Russell, Bay of Islands, Phone +64 9403 8823.

Autumn (February, March, April, May) is a great time to visit Queenstown. The perfect season for golf, hiking, sailing, al fresco dining; there is an endless list of things to do to fill the crisp autumn days!

It's a good idea to think about accommodation before you arrive. Also worth a look on line is the Queenstown Events Calendar for all the exciting events happening at this time.

Where: The far south of the South Island of New Zealand in the Southern Lakes region. Queenstown is spoilt for scenic beauty.

What: A small town of approximately 15,000 inhabitants, Queenstown is a sophisticated, cosmopolitan resort town and a magnet for adventurers and pioneers since the gold rush of he 1860's

When: autumn, winter, spring or summer is the best time to visit. The only thing that changes is the colour of the scenery.

Why: Adventure, majestic scenery, primord ial flora and fauna, skiing, snowboarding, vineyards, bungy jumping, jet-boating, fishing. All those Conde Nast Traveler and Travel & Leisure readers can't be wrong. They voted Queenstown the friendliest place in the world and, right up there with Paris and Rome, among the world's best destinations.

How: Early settlers battled elements, rugged terrain and scarce supplies to reach the riches of these hills. But you can fly direct from Sydney or Brisbane or from any New Zealand gateway. Queenstown is a short 45 minute flight from its nearest international airport, Christchurch.

Go to http://www.queenstown-nz.co.nz/iframeDoc.asp

When you make inquiries about and/or reservations for anything in New Zealand, if you saw it here please be sure to mention that you saw it in the KIWIphile FILE! Thank you.

1

THE 100 YEAR HOME OF MAD MEN

(By Holly Wademan, NZ Adventure Magazine)

A little over one hundred years ago, the valleys behind Queenstown were full of gold miners with the glint of gold fever in their eyes.

One valley in particular was home to about 30,000 such hardy folk who battled with the elements and the arid soil to unearth their fortunes.

Today Skippers Canyon is home to another breed of adventurer who brave its rugged terrain for a different kind of gold-adrenalin!

The road into Skippers is marked by a two dimensional miner pointing up a dirt road off Coronet Peak road. He is an unlikely marker for all the fun to be had in the valley, giving nothing away but a hint of the area's history.

The road winds upwards to a saddle where the road into Skippers snakes away down the side of a sheer valley known as Long Gulley. Mt Aurum sits silently on the horizon and it is easy to understand why Peter Jackson chose the road into Skippers as the road to Mordor in Lord of the Rings. It is intimidating ly grand.

Skippers Canyon is also one of Queenstown's many outdoor playgrounds. It offers bungy jumping, rafting, tramping and four wheel driving, but on this trip I was to explore the canyon on a mountain bike.

Gravity Action, based in Queenstown, offers downhill mountain bike trips into Skippers with three options to get back out-drive, raft, or by helicopter. I chose the heli option but paid penance for the "easy way out" by opting for the single track instead of the road into the canyon.

Guides Dave and Al handed backpacker Derek and me our fully suspended bikes, gloves and helmets, and gave us the lowdown on the 5 kilometre single track. It had been raining heavily and there were several slips, which were almost impossible to

down. The track was also muddy which would suck at our wheels and make it much harder.

New Zealand's national downhill mountain bike team train on the track and being friends with a couple of them, I had already been informed of the track's condition, but was not daunted. As long as I didn't fall off the wrong side of the track into the valley I was going to be O.K.

We dropped off the saddle into Long Gulley. The track was steep, fast and technical, and followed the right hand wall of the gully. The use of weight to balance the bike was paramount and most of the time

my butt was hanging down near the back tyre with the saddle gripped between my thighs.

It was also messy. The track was super muddy with several creek crossings and numerous bogs, but in-between we picked up the pace. I fell off too many times to remember and had a hairy moment when my bike slid off the edge of the track towards the creek below with me on it. I somehow managed to hold onto the bike with my foot and drag it and myself back onto the tract intact.

Three quarters of the way down we stopped to check out one of the old mining huts scattered throughout the valley. A weathered wooden sign gave the hut a name, "Baldersons" and I was told it had been the retirement home of an old couple who had owned a pub just up the track during the late 1800's.

At the height of the gold rush there had been 25 pubs in Skippers to service the 30,000 miners living in the vicinity! The single track had been the main pack track into the valley until the road was completed in 1880, hence the old huts and ruins.

The final stretch of the single track was a fast and furious ride down to a shallow stream to splash the mud off. It had taken us 45 minutes and 50 secs at an average speed of 60 kilometres per hour. Only 38 minutes to knock off my time-no problem!!

We loaded the bikes back onto the waiting trailer and were driven by Robb, our chauffeur for the day, to the top of Bell's Hill where we unloaded and rode along the road into the heart of Skipper's Canyon. The road had taken twenty years to build between 1860 and 1880, and was an engineering feat at the time.

It was literally cut out of the side of the canyon cliffs using dynamite and brute force. At one point the miners were told they could not build the road around a certain cliff, so they lowered men down on ropes who hammered live explosives into the cliff face, lit them and then were pulled to safety before they exploded.

The road was then reinforced with horse manure and loose schist, and more than one hundred years later copes with up to 30 vehicles a day driving on it!

After the single track, the road was smooth and fast, although the sheer 300-foot drop down to the river on one side was a little distracting at times. We checked out the Pipeline Bungy located in the heart of the canyon, then made our way down to the river to wait for the helicopter.

My legs were heavy, but happy for the hard work they had done (yes downhill mountain biking

2

does involve work!) and the helicopter was the perfect way to end a good day. The pilot tried his best to get me to lose my lunch, launching us over ridges and down valleys skimming the ground. I was a nice shade of green when we were dropped at the Gravity Action headquarters at the base of Coronet Peak and relieved to have my feet back on the ground.

Mountain biking Skippers is everything down hilling should be-messy, risky, fast, full on and fun. It's also got that extra something thanks to the spectacular scenery of the canyon, and the echoes of all those long hills. The boys from Gravity Action can be reached on 027 226 3124 or via their website http://www.gravityaction.com. They take two trips a day into Skippers and also offer a bungy option for the brave.

(From xtramsn)

AIR TAHITI NUI OFFERS DIRECT SERVICE

FROM LOS ANGELES TO AUCKLAND

Air Tahiti Nui, the international Flag Carrier of Tahiti and its exotic Polynesian Islands, now provides direct one-stop service to Auckland, NZ.

The weekly serVice departs Los Angeles on Wednesday evenings and arrives in Auckland on Fridays, after crossing the international dateline just south and west of Papeete, the capitol of Tahiti and its islands.

The carrier offers 2 weekly flights, on Fridays and Sundays, returning to Los Angeles, stopping briefly in Papeete enroute.

On the return routing, because of the dateline, the flights actually arrive in Los Angeles before they depart Auckland.

"Air Tahiti Nui provides another option for passengers wishing to travel to New Zealand," said Wally Sumner, Air Tahiti Nui's Vice President-North America. "In addition to our on-line service to Auckland, we offer connecting service to Sydney through a code-share agreement with Quantas Airways, Australia's principal carrier," Sumner added.

He also noted that this agreement with

Quantas allows Air Tahiti Nui to offer special fares to

Australia with the option of stopovers in Tahiti and

New Zealand.

Sumner pointed out that Air Tahiti Nui tour operator partners offer a variety of tour packages to New Zealand, some that include a stopover in Tahiti.

Air Tahiti Nui has grown since its inauguration of service in 1998 from just 3 weekly services

from Los Angeles to Papeete to a summer schedule in 2003 which will offer 14 weekly flights to Papeete.

Beginning in late October 2003, Sumner said that the airline plans to introduce a second weekly Los Angeles to Auckland service and will boost its north bound schedule pattern to 3 weekly Auckland-Los Angeles flights, offering yet a wider option of itineraries for travelers who wish to experience the beauty of Tahiti and its islands, and the South Pacific.

To contact Air Tahiti Nui for more information about Tahiti, New Zealand or Australia, the public is invited to call the Reservations Center at (877) 824-4846 (USA) or visit the airline's website at http://www.flyatn.com

NEW FINDS - by Eric McFerran

During the summer of 2001 I had my brother and his wife from Christchurch spend 3 months with me in our home in Summit, New Jersey (near New York City) and at our lake cottage on the shores of beautiful Lake Dunmore in Vermont. We had such marvelous times that I vowed to take advantage of this renewed brother relationship and spend a few months exploring New Zealand in-depth, with my wife join ing us in the final few weeks.

My focus was on personally doing many of the famous guided and day walks, seeking out new locations and accommodations for repeat clients, im proving my fly-fishing skills, taking in some of the "buzz" in Auckland during the America's Cup, catching up with new developments at some of New Zealand's famous lodges and unique accommodations, attending a niece's wedding, and sharing with my wife one of my favorite locations in the Canterbury high country.

The summer of 2003 for me only had 5 rainy days, plenty of sunshine without being overly hot, no Sand fly bites, seashore water that was overall too cool for comfortable swims and excellent lake, stream and sea fishing conditions. One of the most difficult ques tions to answer correctly for travelers is about weather. Being a temperate climate overall, and being affected by mountain ranges and ever changing coastal winds each region can be affected differently. Canter bury and Marlborough were suffering from droughts whereas the Coromandel Peninsula and Northland had ample rain.

I renewed my friendship with New Zealand's famous "Kiwi Dundee Adventures" Doug and Jan and discovered new walks and saw many nesting birds in beautiful coastal Coromandel sanctuaries. Doug and

3

Jan are in the building stage of their new home on 26 acres on a hilly promenade with a 360 degree view of coast and mountains. Two new interesting finds in the Coromandel were Rapaura Watergardens .. an inland tranquil setting offering beautiful gardens, water lily ponds, many cascading waterfalls and a comfortable cottage or a room ensuite in the main homestead. And if you have always wanted to visit Tuscany, Italy, you can have that experience in one day by staying with Giorgio and Margherita at Villa Toscana in Whitianga. Perched on a hill with panoramic views overlooking Mercuiy Bay this true Tuscan villa includes building materials and antique furniture and paintings all imported from Italy.

The 4-hour Coromandel Coastal walk is spectacular and well worth the effort, but make arrangements with Strongman's Tours to transport you from Coromandel Township as it is no place to drive yourself to the starting point.

Northland and particularly the Bay of Islands, Keri Keri and Coopers Beach area is becoming increasingly popular for Kiwis to retire to. Americans are purchasing prime coastal property. Someone spread the word that New Zealand real estate in prime areas is where Hawaii was 50 years ago, so the land rush is on leaving prices beyond the reach of most local Kiwis.

For the visitor, as well as the early New Zealand history sites, a spectacular sub-tropical environment of superb world class coastal scenery is in this area. The additional attractions of a growing number of artist studios, interesting boutique handicraft stores, excellent wineries and world class (very expensive) golf courses are available over a recommended 3 to 5 day stay.

The American visitor to New Zealand receives more than just a room and meals when they stay at most lodges, homestays and owner/operated motels. They have the added advantage of often meeting a "personality" who owns the place, has had an interest ing life and has time to share experiences with their guests. New friendships are formed and many stories shared to bring home.

Margaret at Cooper's Beach in the Far North has a small lodge with kitchen facilities and is a perfect setting for those wanting to escape the tourist scene and yet be located in an area to explore Cape Reinga, 90 Mile Beach, the northern Country town of Kaitaia and be close to New Zealand's renowned "best place for Fish and Chips" at Mangonui.

We were fortunate to be hosted to a special dinner by Glennis and her husband Peter who is my

choice as New Zealand's best chef at their spectacularly located small lodge with the best views in the Bay of Island's area (our clients' top choice for the last two years). Some of their guests included songwriters and singers from California who had written a well-known song for a popular movie. After dinner piano playing and singing completed a perfect evening.

A new evening Sound and Light show depicting the early history of New Zealand from a Maori point of view "Lord of the Dance" is proving very popular in Pahia and is staged in a unique setting at the Waitangi Treaty House. The oldest hotel in New Zealand, The Duke of Marlborough 2 star hotel in Russell has been sold to a Frenchman who hopes to turn it into a five star hotel. (This could be the "Raffles" of New Zealand if he can pull it off).

A comment about driving in the North Island as I saw and heard of many more road accidents on this trip. The driving on the opposite side of the road for many is a challenge amidst such spectacular scenery and is certainly not finger tip controlled driving. Two hands on the wheel and concentration is called for. The highway (mostly 2 lanes) from Auckland to Bay of Islands is much more congested with traffic now and the surface is very patchy causing bumpy surfaces. I strongly recommend using driver/guides or public transport (air to Keri Keri or coach travel to Pahia in the Bay of Islands) for shorter trips. During peak hours the Motorways surrounding Auckland are highly congested, reminding me of L.A. freeway traffic. The government intends to spend much of their road transport budget on Auckland area roads this year as it is becoming critical. I heard some sad stories of Americans being involved in major accidents and recommend the importance of purchasing medical insurance and paying the extra for car rental full coverage.

Auckland is an ever-changing city and was certainly alive during the America's Cup time. As a kid growing up in New Zealand I never imagined myself as a person living in a Maritime nation, as the focus then was on the land with the main export being lamb, wool, butter, cheese and milk powder. How this has changed with major global yacht races won by Kiwis and a successful luxury boat building business with good custom design orders by foreign buyers. Auckland is a port city where you can still walk easily 2 blocks from the main central business and shopping area to where giant cruise ships are docked, and also see visiting tall ships, luxury personal boats, commer cial catamaran ferries and many smaller craft owned

4

by locals for recreational sailing. Interesting restaurants and taverns flank this area.

Fishing laws with restricted quotas have changed, making it difficult now to buy fresh fish at the local wharf when the fishing boats come in, but the quality of fish either as a take out or as a gourmet meal in a fine restaurant in Auckland harbor area is still a special experience.

While standing on Queen Street, Auckland's main shopping street having my favorite New Zealand "Hokey Pokey" ice cream I counted over a 20 minute period eight Asian faces out of every ten pedestrians. Many of these were Asian students that make up to 30% of students at some of New Zealand's city universities and high schools. Their financial contributions make up a significant part of the education budget funding source these days. Auckland central business district now looks to me more like an Asian city as the Internet places are mostly Korean operated and Thai, Korean, Vietnamese, Indian and Chinese restaurants and take outs are abundant.

Waiheke Island was an interesting find for a great day's outing. Speedy catamarans operated by Fullers launches leave from the centrally located piers and only take 50 minutes to transport you away from the busy city scene to the tranquil setting of a beautiful island. Spotlessly clean, the island offers interesting walks from a docking area through farmland, coastal swimming beaches, vineyards and a charming small village with a scattering of good restaurants, wine bars and taverns. Local bus service and guided tours are also available.

Best deal in Auckland for those who can make do without private bathroom is the Youth Hostel across the road from the Sheraton Hotel. Spotlessly clean (separate rooms for 2 persons), friendly staff, internet service, meal service, tour planning facilities and a deck and lounge on top floor giving great views of the harbor and city skyline.

Whakatane is a city most Americans do not visit, but on this trip I used it for a five-night stay as a good central point for visiting other areas and checking out their beach and fishing offerings. A national tuna fishing contest was going on for a three-day period while I was there and some very large fish were caught. I chose to stay in a comfortable homestay on a hill overlooking the town, coast and nearby Whale Island. The place, operated by an ex bank manager and his wife offered a very comfortable upstairs suite with 2 bedrooms, private bathroom and separate lounge complete with computer for internet use.

A good place to meet up with locals in Whakatane or other cities is to have dinner at an RSA (Returned Servicemen's Association) facility which most times includes a restaurant and often evening entertainment and dancing. Nearby areas for day trips include Opotoki, Rotorua and Tauranga. Opotoki is a true Eastland farming coastal town with a majority of Maoris living there. The smallish downtown offers interesting shops, cafes and a place to buy some excellent Maori inspired and created jewelry, artifacts and paintings. I had fun at the local wharf area observing a teacher taking out a class of 9 year old Maori and Pakeha kids, introducing them to sea fishing using a bamboo cane pole, line and hook. Keeping it simple certainly makes fishing easier, and these kids were having much success in pulling in smallish fish to shouts of delight.

Leaving on a Sunday for a day trip to Rotorua I decided to take a chance and take my brother and sister-in-law to the Anglican Church at Ohinemutu Village. We were in luck as the service (in Maori language) had just started. The voices were so strong and beautiful and the small church with its spectacular Maori carvings and the stained glass window depicting Jesus Christ as a Maori is very special. We then visited Treetops, a new lodge owned by an Auckland businessman whose dream was to establish a luxury lodge in this area where he spent his youthful vacations. Offering some of the largest luxury villas/rooms in New Zealand with a spectacular great room, library, billiard room and vast grounds above a valley surrounded by wooded hills with its own hiking trails, fishing ponds and hunting areas, it reminds me of a grand Scottish estate.

Tauranga and Mount Maunganui, another area seldom visited by American travelers is a sought-after retirement area now for the more affluent New Zealanders as it has a year round favorable warmer climate. An interesting observation there is at the nearby Port of Tauranga where much of the outbound logging business (one of New Zealand's largest export earners) is processed. Also close to Tauranga is Te Puke, a major growing area for Kiwifruit. A facility there offers a vintage car museum, kiwifruit farm and an excellent very large gift shop. A good selection of high quality motels and hotels located on the beaches at Mount Maunganui and restaurants attract many New Zealanders on their vacation breaks, and offer the American traveler an alternative stopover location en route from Coromandel to Rotorua or Taupo areas.

(see below)

5

(Commentary on South Island guided walks, new lodges and unique accommodations, art galleries and vineyards in next issue.)

LETTER FROM HOME (Kiwinews)

One-hundred years ago in March 1903 in South Canterbury, it is thought that Richard Pearse took to the air to become the world's first aviator- some months before the Wright brothers successfully made their flight. Debate has raged for years as to whether Pearse actually took off. Eye witness accounts at the time indicate that Pearse made a series of uncontrolled hops over a distance of 120 metres before landing atop a 4 metre high gorse bush. A replica of his plane has been made and it was to attempt to fly to mark the centenary-however strong cross winds kept it on the ground, but more attempts were to be made.

Another New Zealander who has a first to his name was honoured by the country recently at a State reception at Parliament. Sir Edmund Hillary along with Sherpa Tensing Norgay reached the summit of Mount Everest on May 29 , 1953. The local commemoration was held early as Sir Edmund was to return to Kathmandu for a ceremony there on the actual date.

Another Kiwi in the news is author Lloyd Jones whose book on the 1905 All Blacks, "The Book of Fame", has won Australia's richest literary prize- The $A40,000 Tasmania Pacific. The book won the NZ literary award-Deutz Montana Medal for Fiction in 2001. The book has been adapted for the stage and enquiries have been made on film rights.

On the Rugby front, England defeated NZ in the finals of the Hongkong sevens with a try in the last moments of the game. In the Super 12 series with South Africa and Australia, local teams claim the top four spots with the Auckland Blues remaining unbeaten.

(Contact: (kiwinews@kiwinews.co.nz)

ANOTHER VISIT TO NEW ZEALAND -

by Judy Miller

As of December 2002 I officially lost tract of the number of trips I have made to New Zealand. It is 15 or 16 over the past 17 years since 1986. Recently I tried to reconstruct each one but couldn't, so gave up. Among my friends and family I am considered a bit over the top on the subject of travel to New Zealand, which I take as a compliment considering they have endured years of pictures, diaries and stories. Some

have accompanied me on my travels and choose to make return trips so I also take that as a sign that I am doing something right.

It is easy for me to return time after time to well loved places, doing familiar things and not look outside of what is comfortable for me as a single female traveler. The past couple of trips, however, have been eye-openers, having traveled with a Type A brother-in-law and a sister who juggles his Type A and my Type D (or so) approach to travel.

We spent this past Christmas/New Year holidays in New Zealand. I arrived in Auckland on December 21. Donna and Larry were already in the country and met me as I came out of customs at the international terminal. My flight was late, customs and immigration crowded and we had just enough time for the short walk to the domestic terminal before our interisland flight to Christchurch. I was starting to remember why I generally don't visit New Zealand during the summer tourist season and their local school holidays.

We spent two wonderful weeks with friends Lynne and Colin Gibson and their family on Seadowns about three hours south of Christchurch. The big treat to me was that Larry did all the driving. This was the first trip ever that I wasn't the principal driver, and it was wonderful just to sit back and be an observer and only occasionally a navigator.

All of us love Christchurch so we enjoyed 3 days there before traveling on north to Kaikoura for New Year's Eve. We discovered a multitude of things to do between Christchurch and Kaikoura. There are many wineries and all are very different. Pegasus Bay is the first you come to and is worth a stop just to see the beautiful grounds. They have a restaurant and tasting room and you can pick up a map to the entire Waipara Valley that lists many of the things to do in the area. Ask about the wineries they recommend visiting. Canterbury House is next up the road and again serves food, has a small gift shop and a nice tasting room. You can go from there. The beaches here are beautiful and for the most part deserted. If you see a sign that says scenic route, take it. You won't be sorry. One of note is the circle that takes you off the main route near Domett, through Gore Bay and rejoins the main road at Cheviot.

Kaikoura Wine Company is situated high on a bluff overlooking the Pacific just before you reach Kaikoura (www.kaikourawines.co.nz). It is spectacular for its scenery and they have a nice selection of gifts. No restaurant yet, but tasting and concerts in the cellar, and they do have a selection of deli items that

6

can be purchased for consumption on the premises which includes a large patio area overlooking the Pacific with spectacular views up and down the coast.

The weather was picture postcard perfect in Kaikoura although verry windy the day we arrived. We stayed again at Anchor Inn just across from the beach on The Esplanade. Our main reason for a return trip in January was lobster (crayfish) as we had enjoyed a crayfish feast for a very reasonable price on a previous trip. There is nothing quite like a whole crayfish, smoked fish, good wine, cheese and crackers consumed on a picnic bench overlooking the sea. And that was only the start of the day. We had had reservations at Finz for almost a year for New Years Eve dinner and were not disappointed. We arrived just at sunset and celebrated quietly and elegantly with more cray fish and wine. To our surprise we were still awake at midnight and had just time for another glass of champagne and a few party "bangers" before heading off to bed.

From Kaikoura we went back to Christchurch for a few more days before ending our trip with a visit to friends near Whangarei and 4 days in Russell. Our planned 5 days turned into a soggy 4 as we caught the tail end of a cyclone that had devastated several islands in the south Pacific. Despite the wind and rain and too many people, we had a good time as always in the Bay of Islands.

The foul weather followed us back to Auckland, but again we managed to enjoy ourselves despite the weather.

Following are a few recommendations and some will be repeats to regular KiwiPhile readers:

www.anchorinn.co.nz, ask for recommendations on places to see, things to do, where to eat.

Finz of South Bay Restaurant - South Bay Parade - finz@xtra.co.nz

White Morph Restaurant -94 Esplanade

Take some of the lovely scenic drives that are available either up the coast or inland toward Hamner Springs.

Get off the beaten path.

www.devonbandbhotel.co.nz - Superb location on trolley line and within a 5 minute walk to downtown Christchurch. Sandy is a wonderful hostess and has done a beautiful job of restoring this lovely old building.

Chateau on the Park - www.chateau-park.co.nz - An upmarket hotel just south of Hagley Park. We thought it was worth the splurge and enjoyed the on-premises restaurants as well.

eraOne Restaurant and Bar - This small restaurant features authentic Thai and Malaysian Cuisine. It is located in a strip mall on the Main South Road, just off Papanui Road. We discovered it by accident and returned 3 times during our short stay in Christchurch. A good menu, wine selection and superb hospitality by owners Alex and Alan. Highly recommend the Mt. Ruapehu flaming chicken (stand well back), Tom Yum Soup (several variations) and King Prawn Pad Thai. The premises are tastefully decorated without any of the usual rather tacky trappings that seem to be the norm for Asian restaurants everywhere. Don't be surprised if Alex or Alan come to your table, take a seat and explain the origins of the name or philosophy behind their venture. www.eraone.co.nz.

TranzAlpine Rail Trip - This is something I had talked about doing for years and finally got to experience. We chose the Christchurch/Greymouth return option and went well prepared with picnic supplies, wine, books, games (we picked much of it up at the $2.00 store), camera, and as it turns out, patience. There are several versions of this trip. Check them out at www.tranzscenic.co.nz. We left Christchurch at 9AM with a scheduled return of 6:35PM. It was after

9PM when we arrived back in Christchurch, a marathon day due to the fact that "heat" restrictions were placed on the railway system during our trip. Apparently the New Zealand government invokes these rules when the temperature exceeds a certain level, thinking that the rails might expand/contract and cause a problem of some sort.

Positive: The train moved slower and it was easier to move around, get to the observation car, dining car, restrooms, etc.

Negative: It added almost 3 hours to the day's excursion.

You will enjoy this trip if you keep in mind:

1. That it might turn into a 12-13 hour day.

2. That you will see the exact same scenery going and coming.

3. That you should take plenty of food, drink and entertainment with you and just enjoy each thing that comes along.

Don't make plans for the evening. Don't schedule a flight out the same evening and don't go thinking that you are going to be back early. Just enjoy what you are doing and seeing.

7

If you are interested in seeing the West Coast of South Island you might consider taking the train one way, renting a car in Greymouth and then going either north or south depending on where your itinerary takes you.

We ended our vacation in the Bay of Islands. My heart truly belongs to South Island, but the Bay of Islands comes in a close second. I have stayed once on the Pahia side and many times on the Russell side which should tell you something. In Russell you have ready access to all of the amenities and activities available in this part of New Zealand but are surrounded by the peace and quiet of a small, seaside resort. There are accommodations ranging from hostels to upmarket seaside estates. There are several nice restaurants as well as a pub and a couple of fish and chips take aways. If you need more take the 15 minute foot ferry across to Paihia. If you are in a vehicle you will access Russell via car ferry from Opua. If you are on foot via Paihia ferry.

We stayed again at Commodore's Lodge Motel (commodores.lodge@xtra.co.nz) situated directly on the waterfront. The units are all house keeping units. There is a family suite with two bed rooms, the others have one bedroom with couches that make into beds in the living room. Most face the pool. There are also two rooms overlooking the Bay but there is no separate bedroom, and we didn't find them as comfortable as the other units. You can now hire the owners' private apartment which is upstairs overlooking both the pool and sea. The hospitality is superb even for New Zealand.

There are many websites that you can visit for New Zealand, so do your research before you go. A good starting point is www.aaguides.co.nz which is the Triple A (or in New Zealand Double A) website. Remember that planning a trip is part of the fun.

As I said before, we left Russell early and travelled back to Auckland due to weather. There are several hotels near the airport, but we chose the Centra. The accommodations are convenient. There is a restaurant, bar and all the amenities, and it is about 5 minutes from the airport so a good place to spend the first or last night if you are in a hurry. We were able to negotiate very reasonable rates with them. It just depends on who you talk to at the desk, and if you have a brother-in-law who was a used car salesman in a past life.

If you would like more information or to just talk about New Zealand and what I might recommend, please feel free to contact me at:

jkmkiwi@hotmail.com. I would be more than happy to give what assistance I can.

NZ's FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY - From XtraMSN Travel

The Forgotten World Highway, the new branding for State Highway 43 between Taumaranui and Strafford, has more than 30 historic sites along its 150 kilometres, including museums and old flour mills, coal mines, brick kilns, and Maori settlements.

Tolkien's Middle Earth also came to the Forgotten World highway long before the popularity of Peter Jackson's movie series-the Moki Tunnel has been signposted as "Hobbits' Hole" for more than 20 years! And in contrast to the well-known Bridge to Nowhere, there is a similar Bridge to Somewhere on the Forgotten World Highway which leads to a long- abandoned farming settlement.

Destination Taranaki General Manager Irena Brooks says the route passes through a unique region rich in Maori and colonial history.

"While it's only a two and a half hour drive, it's a real experience for visitors who can take all day stopping off at points of interest and taking photos at incredible vantage points for viewing the mountains of the central plateau as well as Mount Taranaki," she says.

Creating The Forgotten World Highway brand will also help tourism operators develop along the route, explains Mrs. Brooks.

"Whangamomona, with its annual Republic Day, is an extraordinary village to stop in and have a cold one at the Whanga pub. You'll meet some real characters, hear some tall tales, in what is a special place..." says Mrs. Brooks.

Brochures and maps for The Forgotten World Highway are still to be produced.

LITTLE-KNOWN SOLDIER COINED

TERM THAT MOULDED A NATION -INL

As New Zealand prepared to honour its war dead with a public holiday on April 25, little thought was given to an army clerk whose unwitting act helped shape the nation's identity. Ian Stuart reports.

In December 1914, five months before New Zealand and Australian troops began dying in the thousands on the shores of Gallipoli, a New Zealand headquarters clerk had a rubber stamp made. Sergeant Keith Melvyn Little celebrated his 21st birthday at the headquarters of Lieutenant General William

8

Bird wood, the Indian-born, British commanding officer of the joint Australian and New Zealand force that had assembled in Egypt. The force, which was to join the futile allied campaign to capture the Gallipoli Peninsula and open the way for allied navies to the Black Sea, did not have a name.

Little, a journalist-turned-soldier, changed that with his stamp, and opened a new chapter in the history of both countries. The term "Australasian Corps" had been suggested, but apparently neither country wanted to lose its separate identity.

In a military service that survived on acronyms, something had to be done to speed up the process for registering correspondence and easily identify the Australians and New Zealanders. Little was the clerk most likely to have come up with the acronym Anzac, taking the first letter of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps and using it on his stamp.

Within a month or so it became the telegraphic code word for the Australian and New Zealand soldiers and by the time they landed at Gallipoli on April 25, 1915, the term was cemented in military history. Within a week the small beach where the Australians and New Zealanders landed became known as Anzac Cove, a name it carries today.

The beach has become the focal point for thousands of New Zealanders and Australians who make the annual pilgrimage every April to stand on the spot where thousands of Anzacs died.

The campaign is considered by many to be the birth of the nation. But it took a terrible human toll on the small New Zealand population, which hovered around 1 million at the outbreak of World War 1.

Of the 8556 New Zealand soldiers who served on the Gallipoli Peninsula, 2721 died. Many of their bodies have never been found or identified.

For the last two decades Anzac Day has attracted an increasing number of young followers, particularly for the dawn service, held as the sun rises at the time closest to the first landings on Anzac Cove.

LETTER BOX

I had a great time in New Zealand, and what a wonderful country. No wonder Eva is so enthused about it. Now I know what she means when she raves about New Zealand! Many people have asked me of all the countries I have visited, which one did I like best? I always said, "I like them all" because each one was different. No more-now I'd rather live in NZ than in any other country, except the US.

I only stayed at hostels, and the one in Auckland was huge-ten floors with a big Travel Centre. I had them plan and make reservations for me for the whole 16 days, by bus, train, and ship. Received huge discounts, 30 to 50% because I'm in the Golden Age (senior, 62+).

I stayed 3 days in Auckland. Spent 3 hours in Auckland War Memorial Museum, then to Waitomo Glowworm Caves (fantastic) overnight. Rotorua over night, Wellington (TePapa Museum 5 hours, the best) two nights. Then the ship, 3 hours, North Island to South Island. Then Christchurch 2 nights, then train through Arthur's Pass, and bus to Franz Josef (1 night)., then Queenstown 1 night. An all day tour to Milford Sound and a cruise ship for 3 hours. Back to Queenstown overnight, then Christchurch overnight. Wellington overnight, then Auckland, and on to LAX via United Airlines.

My favorite place was the Glowworm Caves. I was very impressed with the helpfulness of the Travel Centre at the Auckland hostel.

E. Lawler, Washington State

CLIMBING AUCKLAND HARBOUR BRIDGE

XtraMSN Travel

At 42 years old, Auckland's Harbour Bridge has grown up alongside many of its residents- developing from a four lane youngster in 1959, to a fully fledged eight lane bridge in 1966; growing to be a pivotal branch of the Auckland transport system and an unchanging icon of an ever-changing city. Crossed by more than 180,000 cars daily, the bridge is an old familiar friend for most Aucklanders, and yet for most it also remains an unexplored enigma.

For the first time since May 1959, when 100,000 people walked the length of the Auckland Harbour Bridge to commemorate its opening, it is possible to walk-and even climb-this long standing landmark. Auckland Bridge Climb, the operator granted the rights to lead tours of the bridge, has invested millions of dollars in building pedestrian walkways and making enhancements to what is now recognised as a tourist attraction-for visitors and locals alike.

Starting out at Auckland Bridge Climb's slick Nelson Street base complex, participants are given a pre-climb pep talk by their guide, complete with prac tice climb, equipment disbursement and even a "sign your life away" consent form in a very surreal seeming circular room.

9

The Auckland Bridge Climb bus ferries the climb group to the base of the bridge at Westhaven. Utilising the sophisticated techniques learnt back at base to hook your safety harness onto the bridge, the group boards the bridge and officially embarks on their climb.

First impressions, for me, were marked with fear, awe and excitement, despite our being merely metres above the water which itself was less than a metre deep. Advancing along a steel grate walkway, water visible beneath me and the roar of cars crossing the bridge overhead, the urge to hold on for dear life was more than a little real, Five minutes on though and my bearings were with me, freeing up my concen tration to hear what Anthony had to say.

Not just about thrills and spills (well, not about spills at all !). the Climb is packed with tales of Auckland in days gone by, interesting facts and figures, and the history of the bridge itself. We learnt all about the "Nippon clip-ons"-the extra four lanes added to either side of the original bridge by a Japanese company with a simply impossible name in 1966-and how they allow the bridge to move from side to side, up and down, by up to half a metre at a time.

From the bowels of the bridge pylons, to the peak of its arch, and the concept of climb really comes in to play. Protected from the screaming traffic by a sturdy metal cage, climbers ascend steps not dissimilar to those found in an everyday house. Safety is para mount, and the climbing is staggered, making it clear that Auckland Bridge climb have taken all measures necessary to ensure the comfort of all participants, re gardless of age or fitness level.

Climbs are conducted in groups of 12 by an experienced Climb Leader, taking around 2V2 hours in total. The climb is suitable for all people aged ten and over regardless of ability. It is not extreme or unduly physically demanding. The Climb operates 7 days a week, 364 days a year, with day, weekend and night climb options available.

BUNGY FOR AUCKLAND HARBOUR BRIDGE

The world's first harbour bridge bungy jump opened on 9 April 2003, following three years of planning and months of construction by AJ Hackett Bungy.

Jumpers will leap 40 metres above the Waitemata Harbour, from a purpose-built "jump pod" installed under the road deck of the Auckland Harbour Bridge. The jump pod showcases the latest in

adventure technology with a prefabricated pod (enclosed platform structure) and jumper retrieval system, reflecting the AJ Hackett commitment to safe ty at their jump sites both in Auckland and Queenstown.

(Further information: lain Leitch, AJ Hackett Bungy. Mobile: +64-274 995 550.

Email: iain@ajhackett.co.nz)

FOOD INFO (from pim Dodge's newsletter)

In both Australia and New Zealand food is

-unbelievable--much too much-beautiful breakfasts with eggs, pancakes, bangers (sausages), bacon, toast made and brought to each person individually, enor mous platters of fresh fruits, all sorts of hot and cold cereals, nuts, cheeses and much more. Lunch and din ners are both large meals featuring many kinds and cuts of meat, veggies, soup, unbelievable salad bars, lovely breads and rolls and for dessert everything fattening imaginable!!

A dish called "Pavlova" seems to be the national treasure of both countries and both compete as to which country originated the dish. It is a large meringue shell about 4-5 inches high, baked, then filled with whipped cream and topped with fruit. FABULOUS!!! (Ed. note: not very difficult to do yourself. I have a great recipe).

(For info, on pim's tours: pim Dodge, P.O. Box 769, 649 Crystal Ave., Frankfort, Ml 49635.231-352-6013. pimd@benzie.com)

HELP YOUR FELLOW KIWIPHILES!

Some of you have been in NZ during the last year or so. Please send along your notes, your memories, your suggestions to help others in their planning. THANKS.

KIWIphile FILE

Published quarterly by Eva Trapani

E-mail: KiwiET1@aol.com

See past issues at: www.kiwiphile.org

Copyright 2003 by Eva Trapani

10