MARCH 1992

Volume IV, No. 3

(-phile: {Greek--philos, loving} meaning one who loves, likes, or is favorably disposed to. Webster)

NEW ZEALAND REUNION SLATED (From Boston Globe)

"I was a little girl living with my parents, Reta and Bob Sutton, on a farm at Mangere Crossing--near Auckland, New Zealand, when 5,000 Americans came to live with us 50 years ago next year."

Del Sutton then tells how her family was told, "the Yanks are coming," and 80 acres of their land was cleared to house, among others, the 43d Army Division. mostly from New England. She also tells how the New Zealanders and Americans became friends.

Marines and soldiers based in New Zealand later went on to storm the beaches of Guadalcanal and Tarawa.

Now with the 50th anniversary of the Americans' arrival in New Zealand, Sutton and other New Zealanders "want to acknowledge the debt of gratitude which the people of New Zealand owe to the people of America." A "true people-to-people experience" is being planned, and to encourage Americans to visit June 21-24, discounts on Air New Zealand and for accommodations are being offered.

Information: David Conway, 5 St. Georges Bay Road, P.O. Box 9904, Parnell, Auckland, NZ.

WELLINGTON--IT'S A CAPITAL CITY

New Zealand's Capital City, sited on the shores of a deep, natural harbor, is a place of pictorial beauty and variety.

Rocky headlands are interspersed with sandy bays, while wooden houses cling to hillsides and freeways snake through green forest-clad gullies.

Downtown stately historic buildings mingle with ultra- modern skyscrapers, creating yet more visual contrasts.

Wellington city offers visitors an alluring range of shopping opportunities in boutiques, bustling plazas, malls and department stores; tranquil

strolls in civic gardens devoted to roses and rare flora, rides on cable cars with panoramic views of the city and harbor, treasure-packed museums and art galleries, stone churches, and a tastebud-tickling variety of restaurants.

Using Wellington as a hub, visitors can take day trips north and south. To the north, along the west coast, are sandy beaches, quaint country towns, market garden stalls, craft shops, and Lindale Complex which shows off New Zealand's agriculture in a nutshell.

To the northeast, past the steep Tararua Mountains, is the rich Wairarapa farming district. Thermal air currents make it a top gliding area, there are fat brown trout in the rivers, and just north of the town of Masterton a wildlife center is sanctuary for some of the world's rarest birds.

Further north again is Lake Taupo, actually a gigantic volcanic crater filled with pristine water, which produces rainbow trout of legendary proportions; and then there's the gently simmering volcano Mount Ruapehu, whose snowy slopes are popular with skiers during the NZ winter months of July through August.

To Wellington's south, across the 12-mi. stretch of the Cook Strait, is New Zealand's South Island.

A 3-hour ferry trip takes visitors through the scenic Marlborough Sounds to Picton, and thus an island of hospitality-plus and stunning scenery. The inlet leading to Picton is part of a drowned valley system where the land has lowered over the centuries to let the sea in to form a labyrinth of salt-water coves. Secluded lodges and hotels, some completely concealed, dot many of the estuaries.

The Sounds are also linked to Wellington with air services. Flights take a mere 30 minutes and land at Picton or nearby Blenheim, a sun-drenched town set on the Wairau Plains.

Visitors come to the Marlborough for river rafting thrills, the trout, or fishing and cruising in the Sounds, and golf. For those in need of a lazy, hazy summer's day, there's the wine trail to vineyards which produce medal winners.

An hour's flight from Wellington to the west is Nelson. It is an area of crafts and art, alternative lifestylers; and of golden beaches, mountain trails and crystal clear streams.

Like Wellington, the Nelson district is also of historical importance to NZ. It was here that the European

discoverer of New Zealand, Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, first set foot in the country. Two centuries later, in the early 1800s. both cities were welcoming the first sailmg ships full of colonists from England and Europe.

Today Wellington is a cosmopolitan capital city. It has made a name for itself as the country's arts and cultural center, and it also has something of a reputation for its weather... The narrow reaches of the Cook Strait dividing the country's North and South Islands tend to tunnel winds bringing constant climatic change. But Wellingtonians are proud of their city, even on the inclement days, and simply advise their guests to bring a raincoat and umbrella, never mind the season.

For further information please contact:

New Zealand Tourism Office

Santa Monica CA 90401

Ph. 213-395-7480 / 800-388-5494

TELL THEM YOU SAW IT IN

THE KIWIphile FILE!!!

50 YEARS AGO (Prom the New Zealand Listener)

(Nov. 14, 1941)--Howell Walker, a journalist for the National Geographic who visited our country recently, writes: "The New Zealander as an individual [is] quiet, serious, solid, am! bent on getting his work done. Yet, as a people. New Zealanders have an extremely happy attitude. I am not altogether sure why this should be so. Perhaps it's the land they live in. Despite the 'misty gorges,' formidable mountains covered with snow, heartless winds and dreary rains, it is a happy land."

SOUTH ISLAND VISIT - Part 6

by Mike Giannone, New Jersey

(Continued from December issue.)

I'll just pass along some random thoughts about

Dunedin:

OTAGO PENINSULA - Get in your car and spend at least a day meandering around. Whether you like nature or architecture, all of the attractions are in beautiful settings. Larnach Castle is especially enjoyable. Plan to be there around lunch: very reasonable and tasty food in their tearoom. If we are ever there again, we will look into staying in the motel that is on the grounds. On some of the local maps, there will be reference to spots on the eastern shore called the "Chasm" and "Lover's Leap". It isn't so much that these natural cliffs are by themselves SO unique--it's the experience of walking through the sheep filled moors, looking out over the coast, hills and tidal flats in the distance which makes the hour or so walk a very pleasant one. Several of the local roads are dirt, although very well-maintained. If you end the day at Taiaroa Heads (the Albatross Colony)

you can still take in the Seal and Yellow-eyed Penguin Colony on the way back. Take note--the penguin beach is far away from the closest overlook, yet there are plenty of seals on the rocks behind you, and the locale is very picturesque. When you return the gate key to the caretaker, you will probably be able to get a closer look at some of the. penguins they are always nursing back to health.

MACANDREW BAY - A small, pleasant town on the harbour side of the Peninsula. We stopped at the Harbour- lights Restaurant for dinner and were rewarded with great, reasonably priced food, and a beautiful view of, what else, the harbour lights of Dunedin! It was here that we also received a very important compliment: some English "tourists" started to ask us locals" for information. Needless to say, they were a bit shocked by our home address, especially after I was able to give them the local data .they were looking for!

THE TRAIN STATION - Go inside and look. Especially at the stained glass windows. Heck of a building for a couple of trains a day!

We left Dunedin after a few days with mixed feelings. We had had a very nice time and could not say much against this area, but given another chance, Linda and I would rather have taken Amy to Fiordland. I would not hesitate to recommend Dunedin to a visitor, assuming one had the Lime and would not have to skip Te Anau, Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound, etc. One direction provides a highly civilized mixture of lifestyle and nature, and the other a spectacular region of natural grandeur. To each his own.

It is a 3-hour drive to Invercargill via Route 1, yet if you have a little more time, Route 92 along the southeast coast is a more desirable alternative. The turnoff for Route 92 is on the left after you cross the Clutha River bridge at Balclutha. It is not very clearly marked through town, but you should be able to follow it. We noticed that Balclutha shares at least one thing with New York City in that it also has a Carnegie Library.

After some farm country driving, you will soon come to the sleepy little town of Owaka, home to the HQ of the Catlins State Forest Park. Since you have come this way to enjoy the attractions of the Forest, a stop at the HQ building (center of town, on the right) is highly recommended. Some of the roads through the area are not very well sign-posted, which makes time spent at the relief map of the park well advised. South of town, Purakaunui Falls is seen after a short walk through the woods. This is a delicate, "stairsteps" falls, and is best photographed when the sun is high above the trees, As you work your way south, you have to remind yourself that you are at the southern- most tip of South Island, as you pass deeper and deeper into semi-tropical woods. Regrettably, the road is somewhat inland from the coast, and you only get brief glimpses of the remote, rugged seashore. One exception is an overlook near Tautuku Bay, which gives an excellent view of one of the isolated sandy beaches of this region.

Cathedral Cave is near here, but only accessible at low tide (check in Owaka). Timings weren't right for us,

but the "Fossil Forest" at Curio Bay sounded interesting so we turned off Route 92 towards Walkawa. Reputedly, this area attracts the dropouts of NZ society, and it is not hard to see why it attracts those who seek an "alternative" lifestyle. A large amount of sun, sand and sea could soothe the most troubled soul, especially this far off the beaten track in a remote island nation. Small, tidily maintained cottages were few and far between.

We reached our destination of Curio Bay and found the fossilized forest to be very interesting, especially since it makes up the tidal flats of the foreshore. Wave action here is also intense. Linda and Amy started to jump rope with some sea kelp, and Linda failed to notice the three-foot surge of tide coming up the little depression where she was standing. It is amazing how much agility one can have, no matter how "old", when one is properly motivated. We started off again, had to make a sheep detour, and got stuck in a roadside ditch ("hot shot" driver rescued by a very helpful road department worker with tractor...oh, the shame of it all!). Took in the lighthouse at Waipapa Point (the southern- most point on South Island, not easy to find and only for diehards) and got to Invercargill airport just in time to drop the car and get on the afternoon flight to Stewart Island.

I REALLY enjoy flying to Stewart Island. Southern Air's rugged Britten-Norman Islander transports are just the ticket to negotiate the air above wind- swept Foveaux Strait to land at Oban's hilltop, "jungle" airstrip. Then again, if you're not the type to enjoy the roller coaster at your favorite amusement park, this short trip (20 minutes) might be a bit much. The oranges next to me (it's also the freight run to the island) bounced off the ceiling a couple of times, and several passengers started to look frantically for the "comfort" bags (or was it for 'chutes?). Not to worry though, the pilot adjusted his goggles, tightened his scarf, and executed a perfect 2 out of 3 wheel landing after a somewhat steep descent (vertical?). I thought it was great, and didn't have the dirty knees that the others got from kissing the runway after we stopped rolling. Maybe I have exaggerated a bit, but you will remember this flight.

To be honest, we cannot fairly comment about Stewart Island at this time. Our trip there left a lot to be desired, but it may have been circumstance, since the island was Just going through a political issue. Obviously it attracted us to return (we had been there in 1987) and most things haven't changed. Still ... better let others form their opinions (it's definitely worth looking into)-- we are just too biased right now.

after three days in Stewart, we were back at Invercargill Airport. The exploring part of the trip over, the vacation part about to begin.

NORTH TO PAIHIA!!! Next issue.

(Remember Mike's invitation in last K.F.--he's always happy to discuss Godzone NZ! Try to reach him at 908-234-6266.)

DISABLED TRAVELER NETWORK

Travelin' Talk is an international network of people interested in helping travelers with disabilities. Disabled travelers planning a trip to New Zealand, for example, can contact local members of the network for help planning their itineraries and preparing for their trips. Then, during their trips, they can contact Travelin' Talk for help in case of sudden illness, a broken wheelchair, or trouble finding necessary medical supplies.

The three-and-a-half year-old network has members throughout North American and in China, India, New Zealand, Nigeria, Puerto Rico, South Africa, and Malaysia. Membership is free, and you don't have to have a disability to join--you Just have to be ready, willing, and able to help disabled travelers in your neck of the world.

The network publishes a newsletter to keep members up-to-date on resources available to disabled travelers and to share tips and anecdotes from such travelers who've learned from experience.

For more information, contact Travelin' Talk.

P.O. Box 3534, Clarksville TN 37043-3534; (615)552-6670.

(From International Living, Dec. 1991).

AIR NEW ZEALAND'S CONCERN ABOUT JET LAG HAS SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS

As a specialist in overseas flights, Air New Zealand has been concerned about the effects of jet lag for more than 50 years.

"Because Air New Zealand flies across many time zones at high speeds, from Down Under to Los Angeles and on to Europe, combating jet lag is an important issue to crew and passengers alike, but it is of special concern to business flyers," said Timothy Mooney, Air New Zealand marketing communications director for North America.

Jet lag symptoms include poor concentration, irritability, upset digestion, hunger at odd hours, depression, daytime sleepiness and fatigue, and inability to sleep at night. According to a recent survey quoted in the Los Angeles Times, 94 percent of all international air travelers suffer from jet lag.

While Air New Zealand's research and development has made it a leader in Jet lag aviation medicine, the airline also leads the way in giving its passengers the latest in jet lag luxury products.

In July 1991 Air New Zealand began giving first class and business class passengers a blend of 50 fragrances by London-based aromatherapist Daniele Ryman, Ltd. Travelers receive a free $20 "After Flight Regulator" kit of two aromatherapy oils good for 3-day's use. Air New Zealand is the first and only carrier in the Southern Hemisphere to offer this natural solution to jet lag, and is the second carrier in the world to offer aroma- therapy products.

The "After Flight Regulator" Kit includes two bottles labeled "Awake" and "Asleep" containing aromatic formulations made from 100 percent pure grade A plant-based oils. "Awake" is designed to stimulate the senses. "Asleep" soothes the senses. Upon arrival, a few drops from either formula can be added to the bath or shower, depending on whether one wishes to be awake or go to sleep.

For the best adjustment to changed time zones, it is recommended the passenger use the fragrances in sequence for 3 days. The "Asleep" and "Awake" formulations offered on Air New Zealand are designed to realign the body's main natural rhythm, called the circadian rhythm.

If the oils are popular, they may also be offered to economy passengers who can already buy a 'Revival On Arrival" aromatherapy pack including rehydration gel, mouthwash, and sinus refresher.

The anti-jet lag aromatherapy products were tested on more than 2,000 frequent flying businessmen in London and on international carriers. Cabin crews were also involved. "Test results show that aromatherapy helped significantly in minimizing flight fatigue and jet lag symptoms," says a Daniele Ryman spokesman.

VOICE OF A KIWI - by Richard Croft

Did you know New Zealand has a third island? It is another one of those off-beat surprises you find in this isolated part of the South Pacific. Only 22 miles from the South Island mainland and separated by shallow, turbulent Foveaux Strait lies Stewart Island. Shaped like a foot and neatly bisected by latitude 47 degrees south, its 400 square miles provide 500 miles of deeply indented coastline and two large land-locked harbours. In a rare misjudgment, Capt. James Cook charted it as a peninsula, and the island is thought to have been eventually named by a Capt. Paterson after his wife's Scottish clan.

Whatever the case, it has not had an influx of population and its 400 or so inhabitants are mostly clustered around the quaint little fishing and fish farming settlement of Oban on Half Moon Bay. Friendliness and informality are the keynotes here and various accommodation houses, including a youth hostel cater for the increasing number of tourists, especially those looking for an unspoiled natural environment. With only 20 miles of formed roads, good footwear is essential for those who want to explore further. Fishing for the prized southern blue cod is popular.

Access to the island has been indifferent since the old ferry Wairua was withdrawn many years ago, and light charter planes have been flying the 15-minute shuttle depending on weather conditions. Now, a new catamaran is about to commence a fast service, and the island is well worth a visit for something different: peace, calm, spaciousness, bird song. Someone once told me that on a clear day you can see the end of the world from here!

From Invercargill, Hwy 1 leads directly to Dunedin 135 miles away, traversing the southern end of the Southland Plain through Gore and then on past rich, green, rolling sheep and cattle farmland to Baiclutha and the Taleri Plains. But if you have time to spare, take the alternative route east through the Catlins, even if it isn't quite all sealed. Side roads lead off to creamy beaches, any one of which you can have to yourself, though the water temperatures soon rule out any ideas you might have about swimming. Little Owaka is the only town of any note, sleepy and so different from the heady days when the railway ran through here and dozens of sawmills processed the magnificent stands of native forest in the hills behind. The nearby Pounawea Estuary provides excellent flounder fishing, and Purakaunul Falls on a fine day are well worth a visit along a lovely beech-forested path

The southern approach to Dunedin through the narrow Kaikorai Valley brings you up to the top of the rise in Roslyn. In this city of steep winding streets you should pause for a while to take in the fine panoramic view of the area--the long, narrow harbour and the pretty Peninsular Hills beyond. If Invercargill proclaims its Scottish ancestry, Dunedin is the undisputed capital--the "Edinburgh of the South". Many of its citizens speak with a distinctive burr and a slight rolling of the "r". It would be stetching the imagination to compare the two cities, but having lived in both, I can see some similarity in the settings: the grey Victorian stone buildings and the stone churches.

The early settlement was established by Wakefield and his N.Z. (Land) Company. His concept appealed to those impoverished Scots whose homeland in the 1840's suffered privation and high unemployment.

Problems over finance, and land acquisitions from the Maori tribes, meant that progress was slow, and when the first few hundred settlers arrived, they faced the daunting task of laying out a town on a terrain of endless hills, streams and gulleys. But it was Gabriel Read's discovery of gold in nearby Lawrence in 1861, and soon after in the Dunstan, which galvanised Dunedin and the province into the frenzied economic activity which gave permanence and prosperity.

The name Dunedin is actually a contraction of the first syllables of Dundee and of Edinburgh, and many of the main streets and suburban names derive from those cities. The Octagon represents the city centre, and who better to dominate the scene than the immortal Scottish Bard Robbie Burns in imposing statue form. Don't be surprised to hear the skirt of bagpipes in the streets at any time. At the bottom of Stuart St. have a look over the 1904 vintage railway station, probably one of the most ornate to be found anywhere. The well-preserved old stone museums, galleries, and the University are all interesting reminders of another and more graceful era. The tipler should make a visit to the only whisky distillery in New Zealand or to Speights Brewery in Rattray Street. For three-quarters of a century the city also boasted an extensive cable car system based on that of San Francisco, and

the decision to close it down was bitterly opposed.

A unique natural attraction occurs at Taiaroa Head at the eastern entrance to Otago Harbour--the Royal Albatross Colony, believed to be the only colony nesting on a land mass and so close to human habitation. Visiting is strictly controlled. It is a magnificent sight to observe the 9-ft. wingspan of one of these giant seabirds.

Dunedin isn't included in many of the must-see tourist packages, but it retains a relaxed, unhurried charm and friendliness. You often find an old-world politeness here which can be quite disarming, plus there are cosy taverns and pretty little parks and gardens for strolling. There are 120,000 inhabitants, but whenever I visit I always feel totally at home--maybe because the changes over the years have been so imperceptible; perhaps a source of comfort and reassurance for us oldies in this Space Age!

The last words should go to the composer of New Zealand's National Anthem "God Defend New Zealand", Dunedin's own bard, Thomas Bracken, who extolled its virtues thus:

"Go, trav'ler, unto others boast of Venice and Rome, Of saintly Mark's majestic pile, and Peter's lofty dome, Of Naples and her trellised bowers, of Rhineland faraway. These may be grand, but give to me Dunedin from the Bay."

MORE ON STEWART ISLAND

The island has a post office and there are three teachers looking after about 60 pupils. There is a resident district nurse, but for a doctor's services a trip to Invercargill is necessary.

There are 1,600 kms of coastline, with countless golden beaches, but not many inhabitants other than around Half Moon Bay. Most houses on the island belong to commercial fishermen or to retired people.

The island is known for its superb sunsets and for occasional views of "southern lights", the aurora australis.Temperature and rainfall are quite moderate and evenly spread through the year. A few warm clothes are advisable at all times.

Between Bluff and Stewart Island lie beds of world-renowned Bluff oysters under the waters of relatively shallow Foveaux Strait. Between March and August the oysters are harvested under strict regulations and no export is allowed.

Long-time native Maoris living on the smaller islands surrounding Stewart have exclusive rights to the fat mutton birds (sooty shearwaters) in the area, capturing them in the same manner their ancestors did.

Stewart Island is a paradise for bird-watchers, with tui, belibirds, wekas, wood pigeons, fantails, tomtits, and kiwis prevalent throughout the bush. Sometimes, it is said, the birdsong can be almost deafening.

Only about 3% of the island's area is privately owned; the rest is protected wilderness. The island could be considered as having been well used. The seals and

whales were taken by early traders and settlers. Timbermen came next and in a few decades took all the accessible trees. Tin and gold mining didn't amount to much. Fishing has been the only lasting enterprise.

In the 1870's the first sightseers arrived, and tourism has continued to be a small side-line business for the islanders. Most visitors to the island are there for the bush walks, all the way from easy to rough. They aren't there for the bright lights.

TRAVELIN' COUNTRY STYLE

"Come with us to a corner of the world where two good dogs and a sturdy horse are all the help a man needs to herd thousands of sheep. Talk with these ranchers and visit them right in their homes...stay a night and learn how these people have adapted to their rugged, beautiful land...enjoy laughter and friendship under the evening sky 'down under',"

It may be too late for this year, but direct your inquiries to: World Wide Country Tours. 5925 Country Lane, Greendale WI 53129 or phone 1-800-344- 6918.

The tours are planned for the special interests of country-oriented people. Unique farm stops and farm stays are blended right in with the scenic highlights of Australia and New Zealand.

What's more, the best time to visit there is chosen--allowing you to trade 2 weeks of the worst of our winter for 2 weeks of the best of their summer!

Throughout the 2 weeks in these two island countries, you'll experience what makes these tours unique--you'll meet the "real people". You'll even have the opportunity to enjoy two overnight stays in farm homes...complete with home-cooked meals and dinner- table chats about everything from raising children to the difference in lifestyles and their business or farming practices.

SUNKIST LODGE, COROMANDEL

The Sunkist is a backpacker's hostel in Thames, NZ, and can be your starting point to explore the awesome natural beauty and adventure of the Coromandel Peninsula.

The historic 1860's hotel offers mountain bikes (rentals and tours), walks to bush-clad mountains and valleys, comfortable bunks in dormitories or more private rooms, fully-equipped modern kitchens, peninsula tour-bus bookings, and more.

The lodge is located at 506 Brown St., Thames (tel. [0843]88808). If you're not driving, you can get there from Auckland railway station on the Sunkist Bus, or from Rotorua or Taupo by InterCity service bus.

Contact the Sunkist for brochure. FAX number is [0843]81426.

A DARK EPISODE IN THE HISTORY OF NELSON

( From Following the Equator. A Journey Around the World, by Mark Twain, pub. 1897.

We soon reached the town of Nelson, and spent most of the day there, visiting acquaintances and driving with them about the garden--the whole region is a garden. excepting the scene of the "Maungatapu Murders,' of thirty years ago. That is a wild place--wild and lonely; an ideal place for a murder. It is at the base of a vast, rugged, densely timbered mountain. In the deep twilight of that forest solitude four desperate rascals--Burgess. Sullivan, Levy, and Kelley--ambushed themselves beside the mountain trail to murder and rob four travelers--Kemp thorne, Mathieu, Dudley, and De Pontius, the latter a New Yorker. A harmless old laboring man came wander- ing along, and as his presence was an embarrassment, they choked him, hid him, and then resumed their watch for the four. They had to wait a while, but eventually everything turned out as they desired.

That dark episode is the one large event in the history of Nelson. The fame of it traveled far. Burgess made a confession. It is a remarkable paper. For brevity. succinctness, and concentration, it is perhaps without its peer in the literature of murder. There are no waste words in it; there is no obtrusion of matter not pertinent to the occasion, nor any departure from the dispassionate tone proper to a formal business statement--for that is what it is: a business statement of a murder, by the chief engineer of it. or superintendent, or foreman, or whatever one may prefer to call him. (Ed. This long account is omitted here, not because of the grisly and bloody details, but because it takes far too much space).

We sailed in the afternoon late, spent a few hours at New Plymouth, then sailed again and reached Auckland the next day, November 20th, and remained in that fine city several days. Its situation is commanding, and the sea-view is superb. There are charming drives all about, and by courtesy of friends we had opportunity to enjoy them. From the grassy crater-summit of Mount Eden one's eye ranges over a grand sweep and variety of scenery- -forests clothed in luxuriant foliage, rolling green fields, conflagrations of flowers, receding and dimming stretches of green plain, broken by lofty and symmetrical old craters--then the blue bays twinkling and sparkling away into the dreamy distances where the mountains loom spiritual in their veils of haze.

(Will be continued).

EXCERPT, 30 DAYS DOWN UNDER

by BBC broadcaster Lynn Ten Kate in Pacific Way

"In the middle of the afternoon I wander away on my own and hide around the headland. There is just one small sail in sight, a tiny dinghy or maybe a surfboard. I've been here 30 days; my month in the country is over and tomorrow I fly out. Why do I feel so sad, so overwhelmingly sad? I have travelled all my life, yet never before

have I been so reluctant to leave a country.

"I knew I was going to love New Zealand; I just didn't realise how much. From north to south, from top to bottom, climatically, botanically, geologically, and every other 'cally' it's stupendous. Simply the most friendly, diverse and beautiful country I have ever visited.

"I realise I am so sad because it's so far away, but its very isolation is what makes it perfect, environmentally sound. I shall start saving immediately. I'm coming back"

ASTEROID 'AIRBURST' MAY HAVE DEVASTATED NEW ZEALAND

(Jeff Hecht, Boston, from New Scientist, 5 Oct. 1991)

In the past, many small asteroids and comets must have hit the Earth, but because such bodies leave little obvious geological evidence, it is hard to assess how common impacts are. Now one astronomer is searching myths and folklore for references to bodies exploding in the atmosphere.

Duncan Steel of the Anglo-Australian Observatory in Coonabarabran, NSW, believes that an explosion similar to the one which occurred above Siberia's Tungusca river in 1908 might have devastated part of New Zealand in the historical past. The Tunguska explosion released as much energy as 10 million tonnes of TNT. felling 2000 square kilometres of forest. The accepted theory is that a small asteroid or comet about 100 metres across exploded while still several kilometres above the Earth.

Steel believes there is evidence of a Tunguska- like explosion on New Zealand's South Island about 800 years ago. At the time, widespread fires destroyed forests across the southern part of the island, causing the extinction of the giant flightless bird, 'the moa. According to Steel, Maori myth describes "the falling of the skies, raging winds, upheaval of the Earth, and mysterious devastating fires from space."

Steel's suggestion has been discounted by anthropologists in New Zealand. They say that the fires and extinction were caused by early Maori settlers who had arrived in New Zealand shortly before the time of the alleged explosion. According to A. J. Challis, an archaeologist at the New Zealand Department of Conservation in Wellington: "The New Zealand experience of forest destruction in prehistory is not unique." Many Polynesian islands suffered the same fate at the hands of peoples related to the Maori, he says.

Radiocarbon dating indicates only that the fires occurred within a 400-year period. "There is no indication of a single event,' says Atholl Anderson, an anthropologist at the Univ. of Otago in Dunedin, NZ. "There is no coherent pattern to tree falls." Anderson also says Maori legend mentions specific sites in relation to falling objects.

Steel concedes that the chance of a Tunguska- like event occurring in New Zealand is not large, but he says that the idea is testable. For instance, it might be

possible to tell it fires occurred at the same time in different areas by carrying out more accurate carbon dating of burnt wood (the last carbon dating was done in 1963). Steel also says it might be worth searching for other surviving physical evidence.

The New Zealand location may not be right for anthropologists, but the timing is about right for astronomers. Brian Marsden of the Harvard-Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics says that Tunguska events probably occur at frequencies of between once a century and once a millennium. The uncertainties are large because the population of near-Earth objects is not well known.

The New Zealand impact is not the only such event to which Steel says he has found references. He believes that a similar event may have occurred above the Amazon as recently as the 1930's, and also above New Guinea in the 13th century. His best lead is an Australian Aboriginal story which tells of the huge explosion of a falling star near Wilcannia in the far west of New South Wales. He hopes to visit the site and collect some of the unusual rocks that are mentioned in the story.

The legends may not be reliable, but astronomers have few other clues. The problem, says Dave Roddy of the US Geological Survey in Flagstaff, AZ, is that Tunguska-like events produce "very ephemeral features, which would only be recorded for a very limited period of time". The situation is even worse over an ocean, he says, where an air burst would temporarily depress the water, but probably not produce a large wave,or tsunami.

(Thanks to reader Gary Ball for the above article).

BITS AND BITES

* Air New Zealand is offering to senior citizens 10% off any published fares. This is good on all flights to New Zealand and Australia as well as to Europe.

* Be aware that American credit cards are accepted all through NZ, at petrol stations, stores, motels, restaurants, etc. And remember you can use your automobile association cards at AA offices in NZ for maps, advice, and accommodations reservations.

meantime 3 of Jaffa's babies have been born, including one male, much to the joy of all. All of this is part of the parks effort to help save the Rothschild's giraffe from extinction.

NEW ZEALAND TRAVELOGUES

TO BE HELD IN SEATTLE AREA

Judy Miller, K.F. subscriber and writer, sends us the following:

"Beginning the end of January I am going to be conducting New Zealand travelogues in the Seattle area. The evenings will consist of music, slides and videos, along with a question and answer period. I hope to accomplish at least two things with these evenings. One is to share my love of New Zealand with other interested people and also pick up ideas and hints from them.

"Secondly I am working with a friend who is a local travel agent in designing and selling small (15-20 people) tours into New Zealand that are specifically designed for group traveling, i.e. golfers, fishermen, ,civic groups, church groups, etc. I am also available to help individuals with their travel plans.

"Whether you are interested in a tour, would just like to join me for one of these evenings or if you know of a group that would like to have me come and speak to them, you can call me at (206)236-5226 or write to Judy Miller, 2282 78th Ave. SE, Mercer Island, WA 98040."

NAUTILUS TOURS

Nautilus Tours offers a 16-day wheelchair- accessible tour of New Zealand for $3,099, which includes air fare from Los Angeles and return, first class hotels, transportation via wheelchair-lift-equipped tour coach, all breakfasts, dinners and some lunches, entrance fees to scheduled events, and baggage handling.

The tour covers both North and South Islands.

For information and/or reservations, contact Nautilus

Tours, 5435 Donna Ave., Tarzana CA 91356. (818)343-6339.

Or call or write: All About Travel, 11225 Tampa

Ave., Northridge CA 91326. (818)368-5648.

THE MAKING OF MEMORIES IN NEW ZEALAND by Eva Trapani (Published in Los Angeles Times)

Isn't it mainly nostalgia one feels in New Zealand? Bits and pieces of soft, comforting memories warm one's mind, just beyond the grasp of consciousness. Or have some of us lived here in a dim past lifetime? Is that what it is?

Maybe it's that we're reminded of a long-ago childhood. It's all here: the crisp clean air, the rich fertile soil, crystal waters that we thought we'd never see again.

Wandering up and down the New Zealand landscape warms the heart, enriches the soul, makes one stronger and more resistant to the clamoring pressures of

our daily lives. It restores one's faith in all that makes life bearable.

I think so often of Betty and Richard Croft, living their quiet tranquil lives in TePuru, a couple of hours out of Auckland.

Betty, born in Tasmania, spilling over with never-ending nurturing warmth. Earth mother. Richard, steeped in politics, unable to ignore any opportunity to make a new friend anywhere, any time. By Betty's definition, Richard fits into the environment." A man for all seasons. The Crofts are prime examples of that special Kiwi quality I call "sophisticated innocence."

Betty is like my Aunt Kate in Wisconsin. Before one's luggage is in the house, she's in the kitchen, mixing up pie dough. Childhood memories flood the mind.

That Sunday morning my husband and I arrived at their tiny white house clinging to the side of a steep fern- and tree-covered bluff just above the road up the west coast of the Coromandel Peninsula. We were there only a few minutes before Richard was on the telephone inviting over his Labour Party friends to meet the Americans."

Then, with no fuss or bother or even a rattling of pans, scones and pikelets appeared on the table, along with Betty's homemade jams and a pot of hot tea. Pure, unadulterated pleasure.

You think, "This is the way life should be. What else do I need?"

You get more, More hours and days of Betty's concern for your comfort, your feelings. Richard's penetrating conversation, revealing his deep awareness of the world, his down-to-earth humor.

My shyness was overcome by the charm and wit of their friend Peter Jensen, retired attorney and seaman, born in Denmark 82 years ago. lie's a tall, brawny man, muscLes bulging from under his T-shirt, his leathery skin burned brown by the sunshine of sea and shore. lie seems to know everything and has been every place you mention. He quotes Shakespeare, Chaucer. Mark Twain, Steinbeck.

In spite of his irascibility, he knows how to talk to women.

His attractive son Carl came in later with his two little pea-pod, blond, blue-eyed daughters Micah and Fairley. Sturdy and rosy-cheeked, they smiled shyly.

Carl is tall and slim, with blue eyes the color of a storm-tossed sea. He doesn't say much. He smiles and listens, with a gentle charm that intrigues.

In his fathers backyard, adjoining the Firth of Thames, Carl has a trimaran sailboat up on blocks, waiting for the day when his work as a geologist As behind him and he can begin his dream voyage across the Tasman Sea to Australia and maybe beyond. Even in this New Zealand land of dreams, there is the reality of earning a living.

Another friend was Ted Howard, a bearded, young Labour Party man who has stood for Parliament

with the hope of eventually winning election. He has a quiet intensity and soft-spoken sincerity.

In his skiff, Howard fishes commercially for flounder in the mud flats of the firth and makes computer installations on the side. He carries a small computer with him and pulls it out to write notes or keep track of his appointments.

The next day we saw Peter Jensen working in his garden, just a few meters from the beach. He stopped to chat and show us his son's trimaran. It lay just steps from the shoreline sand in front of craggy sandy banks covered with ice plants and trailing orange and gold nasturtiums.

Jensen said he spends a lot of time fighting a battle of wits with rats. On calm mornings the rugged old man takes his nets out alone in his worn fiberglass dinghy and sometimes returns with unwanted stingrays. He buries the remains deep in his garden to decay naturally. Unfortunately, that attracts the rats, pitching the battle.

On the South Island, riding in a rental car along a winding road below Coronet Peak, between Queenstown and Arrowtown, you wonder if you've been cheated by not having been born in this beautiful land.

The tug of nostalgia was strongest for me in the Queenstown area. It's Like going back home after a much too long absence. People greet you with open arms. They'll put the kettle on and bring out the best cups and saucers and a plate of cookies or tea cakes from the pantry.

The warm sun shines down on this picturesque part of the country, and you marvel at the strewn-out puffs of white cloud hanging low in the azure sky. That's another thing you've noticed. The sky is different here. The clouds seem closer.

In spring, the hills and dales are ablaze with golden flowers of Scotch broom that someone brought here many years ago. Locals are gently amused by the bursts of admiration visitors show for the glorious spreads of beauty. To them it's a noxious weed to be destroyed, but some- thing keeps them from doing it.

The camera-bug tourist stops often along this road and is never satisfied. There's always an even more inspiring view around the bend or over the next hill. We often stopped the car beside the road to climb up the bank to a fence, snapping pictures in all directions, both of us saying over and over, "I don't believe this. It can't be real."

You're left with a strange sadness, knowing you've reached a place that is the ultimate dream and you can't stay. You've found it, only to have to give it up.

The Kiwis say to us: "Not to worry. It'll be here when you get back." They can be complacent; they don't have to leave.

Sitting in Daphne and Ivan Wright's dining room we found a view that anywhere in the world would be worth a fortune. Lake Wakatipu stretches out below, an incredible sapphire blue, deep in the trough of the Remarkables, a small range of towering, jagged, purple-brown mountains.

Tucked at the entrance to Frankton Cove, at what is called the central knee of the lake, is Queenstown, pop-

ulation 4,000, an internationally popular resort. Thousands of overseas visitors decided to buy property there a few years ago. Locals followed suit and, suddenly, Queenstown boomed.

We bought too, only because we had never seen anywhere in the world a spot that seemed so ideal for living. We didn't know if we could swing it to live there, but we had to give it a try.

Sandy-haired, ruddy-faced Ivan Wright, with an open, kind, cherubic smile, was working for the developer of the Fernhill housing sections on the spectacular hillside area west of the town when we met him. Ivan helped us find the right lot and has been our correspondent in Queenstown ever since. He's honest and trustworthy, a good man to know.

Daphne is girlish and pretty. In our minds now we picture Ivan in his dusty coveralls, standing beside his bulldozer on a sunny hillside, cheerful and ready to chat.

The boom in Queenstown housing has slowed now and lots aren't selling easily. Speculative buyers are disappointed. There's a lot of building going on, condos and multi-storied hotels, but it's settling down and reality is taking over. We're making payments on our section and have hope of someday building a holiday house there.

In Arrowtown, 20 km from Queenstown, life is quieter. We saw a beautiful land development there, with a 360-degree view of mountains, broom- and bush-covered hills, lakes, rivers, sheep, open blue sky. What more could one ask? We wished that we could trade our Queenstown lot for one there.

The Stone Cottage is on the main Street of Arrowtown. It's a relic of the gold-rush days of the late 19th cen- tury. It's a tearoom serving breakfast, tea at any time, lunch and possibly supper. The food is wholesome and generously served by a country woman full of hospitality. We started out with Devonshire tea and on other days went there for lunch.

We ate our Thanksgiving dinner there. The day before, we had asked about the menu and the cook, ready to please, asked details about traditional foods in America.

When we arrived for our holiday dinner we found the specials of the day to be sliced ham, sweet potatoes, a delicious salad and great pumpkin pie served with huge dollops of the usual New Zealand whipped cream. The cook could find, no cranberries, so she made a sauce of some tangy-sweet dark berries that went beautifully with the ham.

We realized after we had finished that we were celebrating ahead of time. While we were having our Thanksgiving dinner, it was still Wednesday at home.

Although we were mostly visiting Queenstown those six days, we stayed at a comfortable motel (the Golden View) in Arrowtown run by a young couple who had recently bought it. We learned that he's a policeman in Queenstown.

Rainbows and clear blue skies. The wet eyes and choked-up throat that go with the Maori farewell song "Now Is the Hour." The precious solitude of an alpine lake. The cold, creamy delectation of a Danish Delight served In a large, crunchy cake cone bought at a sidewalk stand from a jovial, freckle-faced Kiwi. Nowhere else is it the same. All is still right with the world in Aotearoa.

KIWIphile FILE MAILING LIST

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WAIHEKE ISLAND WINE BREAK

Stephen White, supremo winernaker of Waiheke's Stonyridge Vineyard, has now gone into hosting visitors to the island who are interested in winemaking and wine savoring.

The island of Waiheke, 30 minutes by ferry or 10 minutes by plane from Auckland, abounds with things to do and see: sailing, fishing, golf, horse-riding, diving, arts and crafts, and of course the beautiful white sand beaches.

White will play complete host to his guests, or if complete seclusion and privacy is desired, he will leave them to organize their own activities.

Having traveled extensively himself, White wants to give overseas tourists a real treat. He loves different cultures and cuisines. He has added spacious guest quarters to his own pink Provencal-style home and vineyard headquarters.

Stonyridge Winery has produced some top-line 'wines. White's "Larose" '87 cabernet sauvignon has been named one of the worlds 20 best in Voss' new edition of World Guide to Cabernet Sauvignon.

You can reach Stephen White at Stonyridge Winery, Waiheke Island, New Zealand.

The KIWIphile FILE is printed on recycled paper.

KIWI SAILING

A package of sailing and sightseeing in New Zealand is being offered by Rainbow Yacht Charters and
Mount Cook Line during March and April.

The package includes a week's charter of a 32- or 39-foot Beneteau sailboat or a 36-foot Warwick motor- boat, together with a weeks car rental and six nights' lodging at motels. The sailing is in the Bay or Islands region in the country's far north.

The base price is $1,492 per person for a group of six on the 39-foot boat; top end is $4,000 for a couple to have the 32-footer to themselves. Price includes air fare from LAX. An extra $210 buys a week's sailing lessons. There is a $100 per week surcharge for tours in March.

Mount Cook Line is at 1960 E. Grand Ave., El Segundo CA 90245. Rainbow Yacht Charters: (800) 446- 5494.

DOWN UNDER RAIL EXCURSIONS

A rail excursion of New Zealand, both North and South Islands, is coming up March 31 to April 21. The itinerary appears to hit most of the important tourist spots, including a journey through the scenic Southern Alps and visits to railway museums. Some sectors of the trip are under steam power. The leader is a bloke who was an engine driver for New Zealand Railways for 18 years, they say.

Want to know more? Call them at 800-351-2323 (in California, 800-351-2317).

GOLDEN COMPANIONS FEATURE NZ

You have read in KIWIphile FILE about Golden Companions, a five-year old travel companion network for the mature traveler (45+).

Membership in Golden Companions includes a free mail exchange service, a newsletter (mailed to more than 1,200 mature travelers), tour discounts, etc. Present members range in age from 50 to 86.

The Golden Traveler , bimonthly newsletter for the club, will feature New Zealand as the cover article in the March/April 1992 issue. This might be a good time to join the group. Contact: Golden Companions, P.O. Box 754, Pullman WA 99163-0754 (509-334-9351).

ECO-TOURING

New Zealand's Green party members offer home stays to 'greens" from other countries at reasonable rates (NZ$20 for bed & breakfast, NZ$30 for dinner as well). This will give visitors a unique view of NZ, and help raise funds for local environmental work.

For a booklet describing hosts and their homes, send US$10 to Greenstay, Rex Verity, The Settlement, Waimate, South Canterbury, New Zealand.

MORE NEW ZEALAND ACCOLADES

New Zealand is about to be showered with acco- lades an the US east coast--thanks to some persistent haggling with a travel agent.

New York broadcaster and author Rhoda Daum spent 10 days last year exploring both the North and the South Islands. She remarked that she has traveled the world in search of travel material and can honestly say that she has never seen anything as beautiful as this country.

A plethora of images come to mind when Baum thinks about her Kiwi travels: blue and green water in- stead of the brown she is used to, a lack of litter, friendly people who will talk in depth about anything, and much, much more.

1 she had to make a criticism of New Zealand, it is that neither Air New Zealand nor tourism officials promote the country on the US east coast.

Daum says New Zealanders "do everything so well. Our tour guides were so intelligent and could tell us everything about the country from politics to culture."

She said that even the top restaurants in NZ are a third less than what is charged in a comparable restaurant in New York. "Tickets to La Boheme at the Aotea Centre are far cheaper than we pay for opera at the Metropolitan."

Until next time, KIA Ora!

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