Volume Vt, No.3

MARCH 1994

(-phile: {Greek--philos, loving) meaning one who loves. likes, or is favorably disposed to. Webster)

INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS

From the unbelievable to the unexpected, the outrageous to the sublime--a world of arts makes its way to Wellington for the 1994 New Zealand International Festival of Arts.

More than 1,000 musicians, singers, actors, dancers, writers, artists, and performers of all kinds will congregate in the Capital, among them some of the most exciting and original of our time. Over 500 performances will take place in around twenty-four venues in the city, from the prestigious Michael Fowler Centre, to the revamped sheds on the redeveloped waterfront. The streets will also be alive with street theatre, buskers, banners, and general joie de vivre.

The Festival, a biannual event in New Zealand, will be held from February 25 to March 19, 1994. For more information contact the New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 300, Santa Monica CA 90401; phone (310) 395-5453 or (800) 388-5494.

Visitors to Wellington for the Festival are well advised to make the Visitor Information Centre in the Civic Square one of their first stops. Green "i"s point the way to the centre. Once there, visitors can gather information on events, accommodation, tours, and a host of other facts and details about Wellington and its environs.

THINGS YOU MAY NOT

KNOW ABOUT WELLINGTON

* The population of Wellington city is 148,000. The population of the Greater Wellington area (including Lower Hull, Upper Hull & Porirua) is 328,300.

* Wellington is the world's southernmost capital.

* Wellington is the sunniest metropolitan city in New Zealand.

* Wellington has 199 days per year with wind gusts over 34 knots.

* Wellington Airport is the busiest in the South Pacific.

* Wellington has one public cable car and 50 private ones.

RHODODENDRON FESTIVAL

HIGHLIGHT OF TOUR

The New Plymouth Rhododendron Festival is the feature of the October-November 1994 trip to New Zealand offered by Gayle Baker's Valley Travel of Conway, New Hampshire.

The tour includes off-the-beaten-tourist-track places such as Coromandel Peninsula, the East Cape of the North Island (where they say the earth first meets the rising sun each day), a visit to the Kiwi House in Otorohanga, an overnight farm visit outside Lumsden on the South Island, a walk around mystically beautiful Lake Matheson near the glaciers, and a Banks Peninsula tour to Akaroa. Accommodations in Christchurch are in private homes. Sounds pretty exciting and unique?

Three full days will be spent visiting public and private gardens open to the public in New Plymouth during the Rhododendron Festival.

You have your choice of tour group size with varying prices: groups of 4 to 6 people in a van ($2150 each) or in groups of 8 to 10 in a minibus ($1925 each).

A New Zealander will be your driver, and Gordon Mann (a K.F. subscriber) of Gayle Baker Travel will be your escort

This company will also do customized tours for as few as four people. Ask for details. Gayle Baker's Valley Travel, 140 Main Street, Conway NH 03818 (ph. 800- 288-8860 or 603-447-8860.

LA CASA--a special place to stay

After the long haul across the Pacific most travelers find themselves deposited in New Zealand's main gateway city of Auckland mostly round the unsociable hour of 6 to 8 AM. There are plenty of places to sleep it off near the airport or in the city, but here's a suggestion for those who might want to try something different for a few days in one of the most delightful hideaways you could imagine. About 70 miles and 1 1/4 hours southeast of the airport, near the town of Thames at the base of the Coromandel Peninsula is La Casa Lodge run by Sam and Pam Kopecky.

For about the price of a mid-range motel you could be pampered in luxury in a Spanish-style stucco mansion set in beautiful grounds on a forested hillside with spectacular, unobstructed views up the Hauraki Gulf. Although only a few hundred yards off the highway you can rest and relax in total solitude.

Sam is an expatriate American and particularly enjoys meeting up with fellow countrymen as well as other overseas visitors. An added advantage is the liquor license and excellent meal service, traditional or Tex- Mex. Tours and day trips can also be arranged for you.

For information and/or reservations write:

La Casa, P.O. Box 241, Thames, NZ. or phone 07- 8682-326, Thames.

VOICE OF A KIWI - by Richard Croft

West Coast Odyssey - - - Some time ago your editor pressed me to write something about the western side of the North Island, so, belatedly, I am happy to oblige.

Let me take you down State Highway 3 after it diverges south from S.H.1 at Hamilton. From this southwest edge of the Waikato Plain you will pass through undulating mile after mile of fenced or neatly hedge-rowed fields of lush green pasture; dairy land as rich as anywhere in the world, watered without fail by the moist prevailing westerlies which drift in off the Tasman Sea.

Next is Te Awamutu, a prosperous market town which thrives on its farming hinterland, and a little further south the Puniu River marks the northern boundary of the King Country. This was a creation of war; its boundaries determined by battle. Nowhere in the colonisation of New Zealand was there fiercer resistance to the British troops than that provided by the defiant Maori King Tawhiao and his followers. Tradition says that Tawhiao threw his hat down on a large map of New Zealand and said, "There I shall rule". Inevitably, of course, with the coming of the railway, new settlers and land confiscation, they lay down their arms but the area still bears the name.

Want to see some real-life Kiwis? The flightless nocturnal bird with the powerful long beak, the hen of which species lays an enormous egg up to 1/3 of its body weight? At Otorohanga a visit should be made to the Kiwi House Aviary and Zoo just off the main street where you will be able to observe the Kiwi in a simulated natural environment.

A little further on a short detour leads to the renowned Waitomo Caves, set amongst a vast labyrinth of underground caverns and streams which ramble haphazardly and intersect at will. Limestone country is distinguished by high cliffs and canyons. Limestone originally formed on the seabed from the compacted sedimentary remains of marine creatures, and when New Zealand lifted above the sea millions of years ago, limestone rose up beneath the overlay. Below the

ground rainwater seeping through cracks and becoming charged with lime in solution forms the deposits known as stalactites. From the same drips stalagmites grow up to meet them, creating strange-shaped pillars. But here the spellbinding formations are beautifully enhanced by the glow- worms glimmering in their thousands in the Glow Worm Grotto, The New Zealand glow-worm dangling its sticky threads to catch prey, is the larva of the luminous gnat, unlike the European one which is a species of beetle. Waitomo has been a major tourist attraction since the first discoveries over 100 years ago, and a day or two can be whiled away here with good accommodations available.

You will find that the terrain has already changed noticeably; the hills are becoming steeper and dotted with flocks of sheep. The forest has long been removed and small towns have flourished and then died as mills and mines closed. Limestone crags rise starkly from broken ravines, and soils that are thin and poor in fertility have suffered badly from erosion, but it is always interesting to find new vistas unfolding ahead of you. TeKuiti is the last major market town and centre of population on the flat-- quiet and unremarkable, belying its turbulent past of the previous century when Tawhtao had his headquarters here for two decades and before the forming of the railroad over disputed lands.

The highway climbs abruptly up a steep hill at the southern end of Main Street and near the summit looking back to the north there is a fine view to be had of the Mangaokewa Stream Valley. For those interested in Maori architecture there is a magnificently carved meeting house where visits can be arranged by permission. The Maori had no written history but their genealogy is faithfully recorded in the intricate sculptures which adorn the walls of such structures.

Continue down S.H.3 and after some 40 miles and a winding last stretch through the pretty forested Awakino River Gorge it's down to the sea at the little hamlet of Awakino after which the highway follows the wild surf- pounded coast for another 15 miles past Mokau before shooting up into the hills again and over Mt. Messenger. It was along this coast that one of the great Maori migratory canoes, the Tainui, brought the early Polynesians from Hawaiki 1000 years ago to their new land. In a small graveyard near Mokau (signposted) sits an anchorstone of the Tainui canoe. Descendants of the Tainui are numerous among the local population in the King Country and the Waikato, while arrivals in the Tokomaru canoe moved south. The Mokau River was once the boundary between King Country and Taranaki tribal areas and was the scene of many fierce battles.

After negotiating Mt. Messenger there is a very pleasant drive down a narrow valley through farmlands and forest before opening out again on to the sprawling tapestry of neatly-manicured dairy farms. If you thought the Waikato was cow country, well, Taranaki is SUPER cow country. But the dominating feature of this landscape is the lovely symmetrical cone of Mt. Taranaki rising sheer into the clouds away to the southwest to well over

8,000 ft. Captain James Cook named it Mt. Egmont after the Earl of Egmont and it is commonly known by that name. It is a dormant volcano, having last erupted in 1636, and more than 40 rivers and streams tumble down to the sea from the slopes of surrounding Egmont National Park. The province owes its fertility to the mountain's volcanic ash and to its vital climatic role in attracting moisture- laden clouds from the Tasman Sea.

The small city of New Plymouth (pop. 40.000) lies on the lower slopes alongside the shores of the North Taranaki Bight with its sentinel landmark looming watchfully nearby. The old port area is comparatively flat, but behind that, dog-leg streets and roads rear disconcertingly up into little suburbs concealed amidst rampant sub-tropical greenery for this is, indeed, a garden lovers dream. If for no other reason then, New Plymouth should be on the visiting list for its numerous parks and garden reserves. Only a few hundred yards from downtown Devon Street lies what is considered to be the finest garden in New Zealand, Pukekura Park, converted remarkably by volunteer labour from wasteland. There are ferneries, begonia houses, and ornamental lakes, and at night an illuminated fountain and floodlit waterfall may be seen, while at the adjoining Brooklands Park a sound shell and natural amphitheatre seating 16,000 hosts a January/ February Festival of Drama and Music.

At the other end of the botanical range, and if rhododendrons are your thing, take the 18 mile run up the Upper Carrington Road, several thousand feet to the Pukeiti Trust Garden. Founded in 1951 and covering nearly 1,000 acres, it is internationally famous and contains virtually every known species of rhododendrons and azaleas from the original north Asian habitat, plus many new hybrids. They make a superb display of colour especially from September to November and the garden is open all year.

Back in the city much of the mellow charm and colonial character have been retained which makes it unique, while stone buildings and churches abound. The city was named after Plymouth in Devon and settled with immigrants from Devon and Cornwall by the Plymouth Company in 1841. Land disputes between Maori and pakeha (white man) beset the new arrivals for nearly 40 years and many settlers left in despair. Ferocious guerilla- type warfare persisted until peace was finally made and the province has thrived ever since. A major boost in the prosperity of the local economy was the discovery of natural gas at nearby Kapuni in 1962, and then in 1969 the major Maui offshore field and other oil finds placed Taranaki firmly on the energy map. Strangely enough oil was discovered seeping from the city's Moturoa beach in 1856 onLy 7 years after the world's first commercial strike in the USA. Drilling rigs have become almost as familiar as dairy herds and now supply about 50% of the country's petroleum needs. Seventy-thousand year old Mt. Taranaki (alias Egmont) must be impressed by the transition in the short space of 150 years. One can only hope it doesn't seek to regain the limelight by blowing its top.

Trampers will find innumerable trails to wander in the lower periphery of the National Park, but for the motorist three roads lead up to the snow line on the eastern side, to the Stratford Mountain House, Dawson Falls, or to the North Egmont hostel. Any one of them on a clear day will reward the visitor with some magnificent views. For the more agile and adventurous the climb can be made to the summit but beware, sudden changes in temperature can occur making the slopes icy and slippery, and quite a number of people have perished, so expert advice and good equipment is essential.

Finally, a 110-mile circuit of the mountain will present it in all its aspects, hues and moods. It can appear stark and brooding under storm clouds, pristine, majestic and aloof at sunup on a crisp clear morning, or from the city side overwhelming because of its enormous bulk. Nowhere can you escape from its overpowering presence.

Volcanoes have always had a fascination for man. The imagination conjures up images of a seething underground cauldron ready to explode skywards. Vulcan, the Roman God of Fire, was presumed to be at a forge pumping flames from beneath peaks such as Vesuvias and Etna. On the central North Island volcanic plateau are the three still-active main volcanoes. They are Tongariro, Ruapehu and Ngaruhoe, which survived from the dozens which ringed the area perhaps a half million years ago. Before moving on it would be appropriate to recount the story of how the Province's lonely peak came to be where it is.

According to Maori folklore, Taranaki dwelt in the central North Island village of volcanoes. Among them the only female volcano was the lovely Pihanga. Although the others sought her favours she was faithful to her handsome Tongariro. While Tongariro was away, however, Taranaki wooed and won Pihanga. Tongariro returned to surprise the two in an embrace. There was a tremendous upheaval and the volcanoes exploded, one after another, and drove the adulterer out to where he now sleeps in heartbreak and despair by the sea.

And now it's on south to Wanganui, but it will be several hours before Mt. Taranaki recedes into the distance behind.

THE YELLOW-EYED PENGUIN - Condensed from Otago Happenings. Nov. 1993

The world's rarest penguin and probably the most ancient, the Hoiho (the noise shouter) or yellow- eyed penguin has captured the nation's heart. The wild, windblown eastern coast of the Otago Peninsula near Dunedin is the Hoiho's main stamping ground on the South Island mainland. It is also a bird with a bad attitude; try to get close and chances are that it will inflict a painful injury to remind you that it is not to be messed with. The band of people who have spent many years protecting, banding and monitoring the penguins will show you their battle scars with wry smiles. The bird's very ingratitude and foul temper always gave hope that it would spit in the face of extinction. So it has, although the Hoiho is not out of the woods yet.

It is only a few years since the number of breeding pairs in the South Island plummeted to an estimated 140 from 600 pairs in the mid 80's. In one disastrous season predators wiped out dozens of chicks while a suspected problem with their food chain killed scores of adult birds. New Zealand was alerted to the fact that the hoiho's hold on survival was perilously frail by a Dunedin penguin authority John Darby, and this united the many concerned groups and individuals to mount an all-out effort to hand feed the survivors. At last count breeding pairs had built up to near 400 again.

Work continues on planting flax and shrubs to restore denuded habitat. The yellow-eyed penguin nest in the midst of dense trees and vegetation, and it is not a sociable creature--unlike most penguins which crowd together in colonies on barren tracts of rock, snow and ice. There are vantage points at beaches the birds frequent where they can be seen struggling up hillsides in ungainly gait to their nest, but their need for privacy must be respected at all times.

Intending visitors should enquire about tours at the visitor information centre in the Octagon in central Dunedin.

R.V. LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand has glaciated Alps; dense rain forests; sparkling alpine lakes; smoking volcanoes; thermal valleys; plunging, frothing rivers; spectacular waterfalls; verdant forests; twisting fjords and untrammeled beaches. All this vies for space in a country the size of Colorado.

Recreation vehicles are everywhere in NZ-- bouncing up and down the hills, meeting on one-way bridges and crossing on the ferry.

RV camps throughout the country are often located in pristine areas, and are all meticulously clean and well-organized. It'll cost you from $6 to $14 a night to hook up in one of the campgrounds, called variously motor camps, caravan parks, or holiday parks.

Fully equipped kitchens are provided, including freezers and microwaves. There are usually game rooms, laundry rooms, barbecue areas, and swimming pools. Trampolines are somewhere about, and often the "Flying Fox" for the kids (and some adventurous adults).

Most camper tourists in New Zealand take their vehicle on the Interislander Ferry between the North and South islands, a picturesque and usually very pleasant 3- hour trip. Reservations must be made in advance, and the price for a motorhome including passengers runs about $100 (one-way, of course).

The November 1993 issue of "Trailer Life" features a beautiful article on RV travel in NZ. Contact "Trailer Life" 3601 Calle Tecate, Camarillo CA 93012. Tel. (805) 389-0300.

I love the last paragraph of this article: "Despite its small size, New Zealand is much bigger on the

inside than it is on the outside. It really is the world in miniature."

WEEDING OUT TOXINS

A revolutionary weed-killing treatment devel- oped by Auckland company Waipuna Systems Ltd is being applauded by environmental groups because it uses no chemicals; only hot water.

The water is pumped under pressure into a heating chamber and then channelled through a "treatment head".

The extreme heat breaks down the cellular structure of the plants, causing them to wither and die within 48 hours of application. The company is tight-lipped about the exact water temperature, but says that it is hotter than boiling point.

Since its launch earlier this year, the treatment has shown to be an important breakthrough, eliminating the need for toxic pesticides which can cause major environmental damage. It has also proved effective beyond the 90-day life of normal commercially used pesticides. Interest is already being shown throughout New Zealand and Australia, Europe, and the USA.

JETSET FLY FREE VACATION VALUE

Jetset Tours, Los Angeles, announced the introduction of outstanding, value-packed FLY-FREE New Zealand vacation programs.

Commenting on the exceptional offer, Gary Marshall, Vice President, Sales at Jetset said, "No smoke, no mirrors. It's all very simple. All travelers need to do is purchase one of the selected range of land product itineraries, and Jetset will provide the international air fare between Los Angeles and New Zealand FREE." Mr. Marshall went on to say the packages in the program are priced at or below other package prices in the market, but additionally provide some value-added elements. Ob- viously, the most appealing aspect is the international travel portion with a prestigious carrier like Air New Zealand, all at a price you would expect to pay just for the vacation (in New Zealand) on its own.

The most popular of the programs is anticipated to be a 14 day/11 night itinerary combining rail and deluxe motorcoach travel, priced at $1,895 per person, twin- share, low season. Departing Christchurch, vacationers board the world-renowned Trans-Alpine Express train and travel through the Southern Alps to the coastal hamlet of Greymouth. Deluxe motorcoaches carry passengers on to Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers, picturesque Queenstown, magnificent Milford Sound, Te Anau, Dunedin, Mount Cook, and Omarama, before heading north on a scenic jet flight to the heart of the thermal wonderland, Rotorua. North Island highlights include a traditional Maori Hangi (feast), the sprouting geyers of Whakarewarewa, Waitomo subterranean limestone caves and famous Glow-worm Grotto, concluding the tour at Auckland.

For detailed information or to request brochures, contact your local travel agent or Jetset reservations at 1- 800-54 1 -8844.

NEW ZEALAND PROPERTY BARGAINS

The January 1994 issue of International Living magazine includes a detailed article on all the ins and outs of buying property in New Zealand--maintaining that NOW is the time to buy, particularly farmland. Foreign investors, especially from Singapore and Hong Kong are purchasing.

Included in the article is information about permanent residency in NZ--not easy if you're over 55. If you're interested in living there you can contact the following for information on procedures: Malcolm Pacific Ltd., Fifth Floor, 70 Symonds St., Auckland, NZ. Tel. (64-9)309-4187; fax (64-9)366-4730.

The article gives specifics on actual properties for sale in various parts of the North Island at this time.

The address for International Living is 824 E. Baltimore Street, Baltimore MD 21202.

MILFORD TRACK BOOKINGS

PROTECT WILDERNESS

Reservations to hike the Milford Track are being accepted by New Zealand's Department of Conservation.

The strategy of controlling access during the spring, summer and fall months--November to April-- when the track is passable limits the impact of visitors on the wilderness of lakes, forests, mountains, and fjords in New Zealand's spectacular Southern Alps.

A mecca for international hikers since it was first dubbed "the finest walk in the world" by a travel writer in 1908, the Milford Track is a 4-day adventure for visitors prepared to walk up to about 12 miles a day, packing all their own gear. Modern hikers follow in the footsteps of ancient Maoris who first made the trek in search of precious jade.

Advance booking is necessary because only 40 independent walkers are allowed to begin the hike each day. This also insures that sufficient bunk space is available in government-run huts that provide overnight shelter along the track as part of the approximately US$40 pass fee. Reservation forms and booking details are available from the New Zealand Tourism Board by calling 1- 800-388-5494.

Carved out of the wilderness by pioneers more than 100 years ago, the track is in the heart of Fiordland National Park, a United Nations World Heritage Site. It begins with a boat ride across Lake Te Anau, winds past crystal-clear trout pools, through beech forests and alpine herbfields, passes the highest waterfall in NZ and ends on the shore of Milford Sound on the Tasman Sea.

TELL THEM YOU SAW IT IN

THE KIWIphile FILE !!!

$10 QUEENSTOWN CHALLENGE

(From North & South)

It started last year as a bar room bet between two middle-aged businessmen looking to relive more youthful adventures--and ended up raising $10,800 for the Child Cancer Foundation.

This year 10 Queenstowners and a celebrity challenge group from Auckland will test their personal charm, guile and cunning to see who can get from Queenstown to Auckland and back to Queenstown first--with Just $10 spending money and a scout's honour promise not to cheat on their 3000-plus kilometre journey.

Last year's $10 Queenstown Challenge winner Max Naylor completed the original one-way challenge in 25 hours--thanks to some creative hitch-hiking and the donation of a Cook Strait ferry ticket from a sympathetic passenger (participants can't use credit or take money on an IOU basis).

Each challenger has a $200 sponsor, and the Queenstown organisers of the event also hope to pull in bets from local companies and individuals at a night- before bash and a farewell breakfast for the intrepid travellers. Says Hilary Finnie from the Queenstown Promotion Board: "People can bet on anything--who's going to win, best time, when they'll pass certain checkpoints. We're not fussy. Half of the money raised goes to the Child Cancer Foundation and half to prizes--but a lot of the prize money is donated back to the charity."

The competitors must pass certain checkpoints:

Telecom provides phonecards so they can call in with progress reports. They must pledge not to rope in friends for help along the way or use any kind of prearranged assistance; and there's no flying permitted.

"The major objective is to have fun, keep it honest and raise as much money as possible," says Finnie. "We're hoping to bring in well over $15,000.'

SOUTH ISLAND BY VAN - by Judy Miller

Eight showers, breakfast, last minute farm chores, four Kiwis, two Yanks, two Aussies, one van, one car, lots of luggage, very little organization, and no chance of an early start.

Cathy's and my first week back at "Seadowns" with Lynne and Colin flew by as we caught up on news and did some sightseeing. Having gained a measure of respect after the tailing incident (see last two issues of KlWlphile FILE) the previous trip, we were soon helping Colin around the farm, attended a ram auction in Waimate, and were entrusted with a towering load of wool that we hauled to the local buyer in old town Oamaru.

Now we were on our way to "Loch Lomond" to pick up Robyn and Michael who were joining us for a 5- day holiday around a portion of the South island. With us for the first part of the trip were Jock and Mary from North Island and Kaye and Darcy from Australia.

Located in the foothills west of Oamaru, Loch Lomond Angora Stud is home to some of New

Zealand's finest angora goats as well as deer and Perendale sheep. Even in New Zealand, high country stations are unique. Ranging freely on the steep slopes, the mobs are mustered only a few times each year for shearing or to be shifted to another location. Since we were to be gone for several days and he had a van full of tourists to impress, Michael decided to move a mob and take us along for the ride.

It was a beautiful, warm, late summer morning when we arrived at the farmstead. Having an aversion to heights, something I find peculiar in someone prone to bungy jumping, Cathy stayed behind with Robyn to pack bags and prepare lunch. The more intrepid of us got back into the van and followed Michael in his flatbed farm truck to the head of the track. Already we were high enough to see the Pacific Ocean over 30 miles away. Michael and Kaye got into the cab of the truck and the rest of us climbed on the back where we perched precariously on slippery bales of hay among five tail lashing, face licking dogs. Although the rugged hills looked barren from a distance, the unusually wet summer had produced abundant tussock type grass that dotted the slopes, and thigh high thistles, purple heads bobbing in the light breeze, filled in the gaps.

The truck lurched and we grabbed thin air, narrowly missing being hurled over the side. Jock and Darcy both had white knuckle grips on the sturdy wooden frame built onto the back of the cab and Mary was grabbing whichever one of them was closest at the time. Lynrie and Colin merely rolled with the sway of the truck and as the track became narrower and steeper I slowly slid backward on the bales, finally deciding to just give up and sit on the floor. At the next flat spot I slipped down and with my back braced against the bales and my feet against the tailgate, I was in a much better position to enjoy the wonderful view.

Switchback after switchback took us higher into the hills and back down the side of the canyon where we splashed through the riverbed before starting back up the next ridge. Some of the turns had to be "backed" around with Michael pulling forward as close to the vertical drop as possible, then backing into the side of the hill behind us and repeating the process until the corner was negotiated. This appeared to be a religious experience for some as the name of the Diety was invoked frequently. The wet weather had turned the numerous gulleys into streams that washed foot deep furrows across the track bed. As we crossed each of these furrows the truck dropped with a disconcerting pitch toward the downward side of the hill, and the dogs tumbled that direction, righting themselves just before going off the edge, often by stepping or sitting on the nearest person. Colin mumbled something about tourists being dispensable, trucks being valuable and Michael not having lost one yet . . . this week, and we felt much better after that.

Finally reaching the high valley where the sheep were grazing, Michael whistled the dogs off the truck and sent them racing away to start the mob back up the trail toward high ground. It took some

time for the sheep to make their way, single file, up the steep, narrow trail, so we relaxed and enjoyed the warm summer sun.

Were New Zealand truly a democracy we would still be in that high mountain valley. Michael put our route home to a vote and the majority indicated they would rather just stay where we were. Michael won!

Once a main shipping route between the Central Otago gold fields and the ports of the east coast, Danseys Pass Road now provides important access for maintenance crews to the huge hydroelectric powerlirtes in the area. Narrow, high and unsealed, it twists its way between Routes 85 and 83 between Duntroon and Naseby. Michael, Robyn, Lynne, Colin, Cathy, and I were in the van with Jock, Mary, Darcy, and Kay following in their car behind us. This was home territory for Lynne, Michael and Robyn, so they kept us entertained with stories of school days and with local history. Occasionally Michael would slow down slightly to avoid free roaming stock (its bad form to kill another man's sheep), and then we would be zipping along to the next corner.

Eventually we lost sight of the car behind us and supposing they were staying well back to avoid our dust, we continued on toward the summit.

Danseys Pass Inn is located just east of the summit and was established as a coaching stop. Built in 1862, the original stone portion of the building has been added to in more recent years, but the gracious atmosphere of another era has been well preserved. Michael's parents owned the inn for over thirty years before recently selling to new owners who have renovated and restored the historic old building. We pulled up across the narrow road- way from the inn and parked the van under the towering gum trees that surround the area. We crossed the covered wooden porch that fronts the entire length of the building and stepped into the pub. Farm implements, saddles, mining memorabilia, dried herbs and flowers hung from the open beams of the low ceiling. Overstuffed chairs and couches and small wooden tables were grouped haphazardly around the enormous stone fireplace at one end of the room. We gathered around the bar at the opposite end and swapped stories with the barman. About that time the rest of the crew arrived to report a flat tire, attempts to attract our attention, and the need for something cold to drink.

After a look around the gracious old building we wandered onto the porch where we sat and visited and finished our refreshments under the rustling trees. We were reluctant to leave but were still a long way from Queenstown, our destination, so finally got into the car and van and continued on to Naseby. (to be continued)

A TASTE OF NEW ZEALAND - (From "Otago Happenings", November 1993

New Zealand waters are blessed with an abundance of fish and shellfish. One shellfish many visitors won't have tasted is paua.

Paua is New Zealand's own version of the abalone--long a popular seafood in Asia and the Americas. In earlier years black paua was bleached because the overseas consumers disliked its dark flesh. A successful marketing campaign overseas has popularised it as unique and it is now perfectly acceptable.

Paua is not restricted to gourmets overseas however, and recreational fishers in New Zealand are permitted to take up to 10 paua each day. Paua take 5-6 years to grow to their "legal size". Size limits are 125mm for black footed paua and 80mm for white footed paua. Paua must be beaten before cooking to tenderise the flesh. Paua lovers say the paua should be taken straight from the water and beaten in its shell to ensure tenderness. Otherwise marinate it with a crushed, raw, ripe kiwifruit for 1 to 2 hours.

There are many interesting and tasty ways of serving paua. The traditional Maori method of steaming in a hangi is delicious. Mincing paua for patties is a convenient and enjoyable way to enjoy this delicacy.

Paua thinly sliced and sauteed in butter served with a rich creamy sauce is an exciting dish.

Paua jewelry has long been a popular item on tourists' shopping lists and paua shell is particularly attractive when set in silver.

THE LETTER BOX

Enjoying our trip immensely. What a gorgeous country! The Waitomo Caves are spectacular and eerie ..... our favorite spot along with Fairy Springs (Rotorua). Weather has been perfect until today--raining in sunny Nelson! Heading down the west coast today to glaciers. So sorry I can't call your friends as I forgot to

bring phone #s. Dumb!

Thanks for all your help and hope you get here soon again.

Lynn Christie, California

It was with sadness that I read in the September 1993 issue about your husband John.

I had the pleasure of meeting him with you in Auckland airport and was very impressed with his vibrant and caring personality. Please accept my sincere condolences.

The KIWIphile FILE continues to be a most interesting publication, and I enclose $15 for continued subscription.

Folly Ring, 775 Riddell Rd., Glendowie, Auckland, NZ. Ph. 575-6655

(Ed. Folly Ring is secretary of Auckland Tourist Hospitality, a voluntary host program set up to arrange for visitors to NZ to spend a morning, afternoon, or evening with an Auckland family, talking on a one to one basis. It's absolutely free and is a wonderful opportunity to learn first-hand about Kiwi daily life. We took advan tage of this opportunity in 1982, our first visit to NZ, and now have life-long friends- -aImost like "family". These are NOT overnight stays, just friendly visits.

Eighty Auckland families participate. Don't miss it! Call or write Mrs. Ring for guidance.)

WAR AS A PASTIME - (From Following the Equator. A Journey Around the World . by Mark Twain, pub. 1897.)

December 9. Wellington. Ten hours from Wanganui by the. Fly.

December 12. It is a fine city and nobly situated. A busy place, and full of life and movement. Have spent the three days partly in walking about, partly in enjoying social privileges, and largely in idling around the magnificent garden at Hutt, a little distance away, around the shore. I suppose we shall not see such another one soon.

We are packing tonight for the return voyage to Australia. Our stay in New Zealand has been too brief; still, we are not unthankful for the glimpse which we have had of it.

The sturdy Maoris made the settlement of the country by the whites rather difficult. Not at first--but later. At first they welcomed the whites, and were eager to trade with them--particularly for muskets; for their pastime was internecine war, and they greatly preferred the white man's weapons to their own. War was their pastime

--I use the word advisedly. They often met and slaughtered each other just for a lark, and when there was no quarrel. The author of "Old New Zealand" mentions a case where a victorious army could have followed up its advantage and exterminated the opposing army, but declined to do it; explaining naively that "if we did that, there couldn't be any more fighting." In another battle one army sent word that it was out of ammunition, and would be obliged to stop unless the opposing army would send some. It was sent, and the fight went on.

In the early days things went well enough. The natives sold land without clearly understanding the terms of exchange, and the whites bought it without being much disturbed about the native's confusion of mind. But by and by the Maori began to comprehend that he was being wronged; then there was trouble, for he was not the man to swallow a wrong and go aside and cry about it. He had the Tasmanian's spirit and endurance, and a notable share of military science besides; and so he rose against the oppressor, did this gallant "fanatic," and started a war that was not brought to a definite end until more than a generation had sped.

SHEER THRILLS

For visitors who don't want to fling themselves bodily into bungy jumping or whitewater rafting but still want to sample the adrenalin buzz that is part of Queenstown's travel appeal, there is the Skippers Canyon road.

Built more than 100 years ago to pave the way for heavy goldmining machinery, the road twists its narrow course through some of New Zealand's most spectacular scenery with precipitous drops on either side----offering

travelers a tantalizing taste of fear, simply by looking out the window. For most of its 20 kilometres, the road seems Little wider than the motor vehicle.

In summer when the road is smoothed by the sun, buses can take tour parties through Skippers Canyon. During the rest of the year, two 4WD companies--Nomad Safaris and Outback Tours--take small groups along the road with experienced drivers at the helm.

The trips are about four hours long and cost NZ$42.50 per person. Nomad Safaris, for example, operates two trips each day, leaving at 8:45am and 1:30pm.

For more information about four-wheel-drive tours, contact Outback Tours on (03)442-7386 or Nomad Safaris on (03)442-6699.

A NEW SOUTH ISLAND ADVENTURE

At the town of Charleston one can have a wonderful, somewhat wacky adventure for a small amount of money (NZ$60). Paparoa, New Zealand's newest national park, is about 540 km north of Greymouth on the South Island's wild west coast.

You can spend 4 to 5 hours there, including tramping through a lush virgin rainforest, an hour in an awesome limestone cave, and underworld rafting.

Only New Zealanders could have devised such an off-the-wall adventure. Anywhere else in the world and the Metro Cave would have been overtaken by toll booths, souvenir shops selling baby stalactites, and private accident insurance companies offering life cover before you descend into the bowels of the earth.

The Metro Cave is deathly silent and pitch black with a spectacular display of limestone architecture. Then there's the thrilling journey through inky water, the adventurers equipped with wet suits and inner tubes, forming a human chain as they silently glide under a canopy of brilliantly lit glow worms.

Then--surprise--a sudden emergence into greenish sunlight filtered by rainforest branches, and a passage through two somewhat tame whitewater rapids. This is an adventure for young and old.

Norwest Adventures, 41 Domett St., Westport, NZ. Ph. (03)789-8922.

DOING YOUR OWN THING?

Here are two helping hands:

- Don't forget Travel Savvy for the very best in travel guides, road atlases, voltage adapters, super absorbent travel towels, travel alarms, and some really unusual items. Send for catalog. Address: Travel Savvy, K.F., P.O. Box 190, Burbank, OH 44214-0190. PH. 1-800-234-4552.

- You can rely on New Zealanders Pat and John Heerdegen to pick you up at Auckland Airport; give you quality accommodations in their home, including lunch, dinner and breakfast for NZ$100 single, NZ$90 double. This service is specifically aimed at the traveler who prefers to go on his/her own. You'll get a mini-tour of Auckland, advice on your trip around

New Zealand and, if requested, trips to nearby Waitomo Caves, Bay of Islands, etc.

Contact Pat & John Heerdegen, 89 Stanaway St., Hillcrest, Auckland 9, NZ. Ph./fax 64 9 419- 0731.

BOOKS

Here are several written aids to your NZ travels, available in New Zealand. You might check with the NZ Tourism Board, Suite 300, 501 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica CA 90401. Tel. 310-395-7480 OR 800-388-5494 as to their availability in the U.S.