Volume VII, No. 3

MARCH 1995

(-phile: {Greek--philos, loving} meaning one who loves, likes, or is favorably disposed to. Webster)

TRAMPERS FIND HOME ON AKAROA TRACK (from N.Z. Herald)

When Banks Peninsula couple Mark and Sofia Armstrong started what they believe is the first private walking track in New Zealand through their farm six years ago, they had no idea they were creating a near- religious experience.

The track, organised by a local collective, was a way for the Armstrongs to diversify after a particularly dry summer had caused stock to die in the fields.

Their farm at Stony Bay, near Akaroa, became one of the overnight stays for the four-day hike that starts at Akaroa Heads and loops around the coast to end up back in Akaroa township.

The need to accommodate the walkers gave Mr. Armstrong the opportunity to let loose his creativity and use a collection of building materials that he had gathered over the years.

Stored stained glass windows, old doors and wrought iron pieces have been combined to form an eclectic collection of overnight cottages behind the Armstrongs' century-old farmhouse.

The three huts are a delightful collection of mezzanine levels, bunk beds, wooden floors and open fires.

"We have had people arriving on the back doorstep in tears because they can't believe how lucky we are to live in such a beautiful place. It's quite over- whelming really," said Mrs. Armstrong.

As well as the cottages Mr. Armstrong has cre- ated a small grocery shop which operates on an honesty box system, with hikers taking what they want and leaving the money in a till, which is kept stocked with change.

People often ask to stay longer, but because there is a limit of 12 people walking the track each day, it is important that everybody keeps moving.

Another feature of the camp is a shower which has been built around a big, old tree trunk with the top of the tree protruding through the roof.

Rope swings dangle out across a stream which runs to the beach less than 30 seconds' walk from the huts.

And travelers can shoot a game of pool with teatree sticks on a table handcrafted by Mr. Armstrong.

Up the hill from the cottages is a cave where people have left secret notes and love letters for more than a century.

Six generations of Armstrongs have farmed at Stony Bay, although the farm is a lot smaller today after being carved up between various family members over the years.

The walking track has now become a profitable and enjoyable sideline to farming.

The early days were hard because people were not used to paying to walk across someone's farm. But gradually the bookings came in, and last season more than 2000 people walked the track.

The Armstrongs say the thing that makes the Akaroa walk different from other tracks is the fact that people can book in advance and be assured of a bed. There are at least 10 advance bookings at any one time.

"We have both done it a couple of times and we love it. We call it an experience and an experience really is being able to take your time when you are with friends, and toddle along at your own pace."

DOUBTFUL SOUND, NEW ZEALAND 1994

- by Annalee Avery Andres

It was my experiences in the Doubtful Sound of New Zealand that have led me to consider this area of the world my Spiritual Place. In the Southwestern part of the South Island of New Zealand lies Fiordland, a small area of the world that has remained basically untouched for thousands of years. It is in the heart of this region, a place that receives 20 feet of rain a year, that Doubtful Sound exists in a cloud covered solitude. Thick bush bespeckeled with brilliant fern trees called Ponga cling to the sides of vertical walls that emerge majestically from the depth of the salty water of the Tasman Sea. The effect of such grand vertical heights combined with the depth of the sea and the thick heavy hanging mists is one of prehistoric wonder.

As an American woman from California, I arrived in New Zealand thinking that I had seen incomparable natural beauty. My companion, a New Zealander, had organized a month-long trip for us to see the best of the South Island. He had heard through friends of a sea kayaking trip through Doubtful Sound that only a few hundred people in the world had ever done. He enthusiastically set a date for us to launch into the Sound on March 19, 1994.

As a novice kayaker I remember listening apprehensively to the detailed emergency procedures in the case of capsize. Our guide led us to our sleek two- person kayak, and seemed to speak endlessly of precautionary measures. Dressed in a full body wet suit, life jacket and state of the art polypropolene shirt, I helped to pack our array of camping equipment into the amazingly compact space in the hull and rear of the kayak. Food for four days plus tent, sleeping bags, and endless other equipment folded away nicely into our kayak. All of this preparation was done under a heavy veil of rain on the edge of the Sound at an inlet named Deep Cove.

Packing the kayak in the pouring rain was wearisome. Such ferocious weather made it hard to believe that Captain Cook, when exploring New Zealand for the first time, had doubted being able to sail out of this Sound because of the stillness of the water, and thus named it Doubtful Sound. However, only minutes after venturing onto the sea, the rain seemed to dissipate and only a low cloud hung as mist upon the water. The rain had created rivers high above us on the rock walls of the Sound that poured over as giant waterfalls. We entered a narrow channel and counted ten such waterfalls streaming down from the cliffs, falling hundreds of feet to the sea around us where we paddled along. Some falls created deep crevices in the Sound walls, carving out a rock path in the lushness of the bush-covered sides of the Sound.

Doubtful Sound was silent except for the thunderous splashing of the falls on the sea and, perhaps most wondrously, for the strange calls of the exotic native birds. Bellbirds, pukekos. wood pigeons and wekas, all bizarre aviary manifestations of a land where no mammals and no predators exist to hunt them, find refuge in the still pristine ecosystem of Fiordland. As we paddled deeper and deeper into the Sound the effect became more and more amplified and I felt I was traveling deeper into the prehistoric past. My companion and I agreed as we approached Sheltered Cove, the inlet where we were to set up camp for the night, that if dinosaurs were alive today they would live here in Doubtful Sound.

The majesty of our surroundings was quickly forgotten as we negotiated ourselves around fallen tree branches in the shallow waters of the inlet and beached the kayak on the shore. We were immediately attacked by swarms of sandflies: gnatlike insects that have a small but ferocious bite. Lumbering out of our seats within the holes of the kayak, we moved into swift

action unloading our equipment in a frantic search for the insect repellent. We then took turns spraying each other from the aerosol can. The Maoris, the indigenous people of the island, believe the sandflies to be Fiordland's natural protector and did not populate this most remote area of New Zealand. These flies live solely upon the native birds. We remarked to each other how we must be the sweetest scent for miles around and sprayed ourselves with another dose of our repellent.

Once our tent was set up and our sandfly net hung securely between two sapling trees, we began our pre-arranged survival duties. My companion began uncoiling the antenna of the powerful two-way radio in preparation for a prearranged call to the guides who lived miles away at civilized Lake Te Anau. I began dinner through tears of frustration from the relentless swarm of gnats around my exposed face and hands. As I attempted to cook, a weka, a native bird resembling a chicken, attempted to steal our shiny cooking utensils. These diurnal birds emerge at dusk to steal anything shiny to add to their nests. Needless to say, wekas that live in more populated regions of the South Island have nests made of car keys, jewelry, and precious cooking spoons. I tried to scare our cheeky friend away with whizzing rocks.

The next day on the Sound proved to be magnificently sunny. Overnight the scene was transformed. The rushing waterfalls were gone now, but the sun sparkled off the sea. The eerie clinging mists were exchanged for tropical heat. We headed for the Crooked Arm, an inlet not far from the mouth of the Sound. Paddling in the heat was tiresome, so we decided to spend long breaks fishing in inlets as we came across them. We only had to drop a hand-line with a bit of our salami sandwich meat to catch small fish for bait. Our hand-lines went down again and again along the edge between sea and three-hundred feet Sound walls, to be immediately taken by large red snappers. We pulled them up one after another in a frenzy that lasted hours. Throwing back the smaller fish, we had enough for an ample dinner. The thought of a fresh dinner gave us the strength to fairly glide across the main channel that connects Sound and Sea, and enter the Crooked arm inlet, my Spiritual Place.

We had a rough crossing, lasting about two hours. It is hard to figure the distance between one side to the other. The physical aspects are so large that there is no scale by which to judge distance. I was sitting in the front seat in the kayak and had to endure the frightening splashing of waves over the front of the bow that splattered all over me. All the while I thought of the capsize procedures we had been taught and I paddled with all my strength. As soon as we entered into the Crooked Arm I felt an indescribable peace. The fear of the crossing was over and I was able to relish the beauty of this arm--a giant channeled inlet of the Sound. Our campsite was not far and we paddled in delicious silence in the emerald green depths of this ancient place. The birds seemed especially active--flying from one Ponga fern to another on the sides of the cascading walls.

Our campsite was beautiful; a lovely green glen carved from the surrounding bush. Through the taller Ponga ferns we could see a magnificent waterfall that dropped hundreds of feet. The sandflies were not as tenacious here and we dropped our guard a little and decided to take a bath in a nearby freshwater river mouth. Then clean and refreshed, we went about wrapping our fresh red snapper in tin foil after we had smeared them with butter and lemon.

Our next task was to collect firewood. Not an easy mission considering the deep moisture of the bush floor. The New Zealand bush is a delicate canopy over layers and layers of decaying flora and fauna. We eventually found enough usable wood and I set about making a fire as my companion once again called in on the radio set up for the night. The fish was a delicious treat. We ate by the fire in the silence of the Crooked Arm, under the Southern Cross bright in the brilliant night sky.

The next morning before we broke camp, I decided to wander into the bush alone. Quietly leaving my friend, the only human being I had seen in two days, I walked into the canopy of fern trees that are descendants of the earth's most ancient fauna. The bush floor was soft and moist, my feet often sinking deep into the layer of decaying leaves. I had to remind myself several times that there was nothing that could hurt me, no animals, no poisonous insects, no snakes. I was alone with the bush and the curious native birds that circled around me. I felt as though I was enveloped in a natural green womb, everything so soft and moist. I was surprised to learn that the Maoris believe the Lord of the Bush to be male. While I explored, keeping my directions certain in my mind, I wondered how long it had been, if ever, since a human looked upon the trees ahead of me.

Reluctantly we left the Crooked Arm. We headed back to Deep Cove where we were scheduled to meet our guide to be transported over to Lake Manapouri, next to the Sound, for another few days of kayaking. We had a long paddle ahead of us against the current and the wind. I felt discouraged. We had been paddling for several hours when my partner spotted splashing in the distance. As I mentioned before, distance is hard to determine in the Sound, so we paddled at a quick pace toward the splashes only to become tired before we were near. The splashes began to seem closer by the minute. The pace was unnatural. The splashes were moving toward us. It was not long before we realized that the splashing came from a magnificent pod of dolphins. They spotted us from far off and were moving toward us at an unbelievable rate. Some were leaping in the air to greet us. My tired arms became revitalized and we were moving toward them with unexpected energy. When we reached each other, under the shadow of the ancient and majestic walls of the Sound, I reached my arm down to touch the water and saw a baby Bottle Nose dolphin underneath my hand. We played with them, paddling quickly while they zoomed beneath us. There were about 25 in all, perhaps more. We paddled full strength when two of the larger dolphins

flipped over on their stomachs in front of the bow of the kayak as other dolphins rushed upon the sides, creating a wave effect. We were able to glide upon the wake of the wave, eventually riding along without paddling at all. When the dolphins had tired of this maneuver, several of them began flipping out of the water, creating full arches with their bodies. My companion and I watched in awe. We both knew that we were experiencing a miracle together, and we stayed silent.

We were conscious that we needed to push on to meet our guide and reluctantly we paddled away from the pod of dolphins who were headed out east past the Crooked Arm into the Tasman Sea. As we headed in a westerly direction) a few of the dolphins came back to us to play a little longer, obviously trying to encourage us to come with them. But we knew that we must return to shore-- that we must leave this enchanted antediluvian place in peace and head onward, west toward the mainland of New Zealand.

STEWART ISLAND--'More kiwis than people' From the Sunday Star-Times, by Judith Doyle.

The Conservation Department HQ in Halfmoon Bay boasts: "Stewart Island contains more kiwis than people." And many Stewart Islanders are as delightfully quirky as our national emblem, they might have added.

Take Sam, for instance, who took us on Stewart Island's Official Bus Trip.

Charles Sampson, to give him his proper name, is as bewhiskered as an Old Testament prophet but far less reverent. His spicy spiel contained about one anecdote for every kilometre of road. There are 20km. When he is not being a jocular bus-tour guide or driver of the old airport bus (mobile airport terminal as he calls it), he staffs the check-in counter for Southern Air.

Doug and Margaret Wright run Stewart Island Lodge, up a precipitous road in Halfmoon Bay. Despite the hard work in running a lodge to their own exacting standards--the cuisine, featuring fresh seafoods at every opportunity, is excellent--the couple convey an infectious enjoyment of their enterprise and their island. A courtesy car is included in the lodge tariff as are all meals.

Snuggled into bush next door is the house of builder Peter Goomes, who offers homestays like many other Stewart Islanders.

Anglicised from Gomez, the name recalls his Portuguese great-great-grandfather, a whaler who settled here early last century and married a Maori girl.

So did the ancester of Phillip Smith, who like many Stewart Islanders, turns his hand to most things marine. He takes visitors fishing, hunting, diving and sight-seeing. He also delivers or collects trampers from various nooks and crannies round the island's tortuous coastline.

But it is his kiwi-spotting trips that have--unlike the bird itself--taken off in the few months he has been running them. "The birds are more numerous now than five years ago," he says.

Usually he chooses a particular ocean beach where the kiwis come out of the bush on to the sand to search the kelp for sandhoppers. A fellow guest staying at Stewart Island Lodge saw six kiwis during one evening. including a couple of tiny year-old chicks. On moonlit nights they can be picked out fairly easily against the sand. On darker nights torches are used carefully.

I joined a group of birdwatchers on a 14m fishing launch. As we tossed around enroute to some outer islands there were cries of "skua out there" or "little blue penguins behind" and 20 pairs of binoculars would focus in unison.

Mollyhawks (a type of albatross) cavorted near the stern after some freshly caught cod was thrown over the side. Even the homely wekas got the photographic treatment when we stopped at Ulva Island for lunch.

Here I saw my first kakas, swinging from a branch like portly trapeze artists, and a couple of gold- crowned parakeets well camouflaged in the green bush.

On the beach, a black oyster-catcher screeched at us to keep clear of the nest and a Belgian ornithologist nearly had the sharp end of the bird's beak to remember him by. as well as a photo.

Stewart Island was not always as kind to wildlife and flora. It was good to see so many seals after European scalers almost annihilated them in the early part of last century.

Later came the whalers and you can still visit by boat the old Norwegian whaling base at Millers' Beach, Paterson Inlet.

Reminders of sawmilling days exist too-- sawpits, tram tracks and old boilers at one point. But the luxuriant bush, helped by the island's rainfall, wasted no time in recapturing the land, and its endless coves, beaches, mountains and busy gorges are now protected.

A network of walking tracks punctuated by huts allows trampers to enjoy this extensive wilderness area, rich not only in birds and spectacular scenery but also in native trees, plants and ferns.

The less intrepid walker has options too, for tasting the island tranquility, starting with such short walks as the 15-minute walk to Observation Rock.

Three glass-bottomed boats operate from Half moon Bay, offering trips to view life on the ocean floor, and taxi runs from either wharf have proved popular with trampers.

UPDATES FROM SOUTHERN CROSS TOURS

1. From Kelly Tarlton's Underwater World & Antarctic Encounter - news of their "new additions" of 20 King Penguins being added should be completed sometime this January 1995. Visitors will have a chance to see a real antarctic species of penguin "up close."

2. Overnight on Milford Sound. Tourism Milford Ltd. has purchased a new boat to add to their fleet of Red Boats on Milford Sound. This boat used to

sail Fijian waters under the name of "Duchess of the Isles." It has now arrived in New Zealand waters, renamed "Lady of the South Pacific." The ship is twice the size of other boats operating in Milford. It will offer an overnight cruise in the Milford Sound. There are two decks--the "A" deck which has 3 singles, 8 doubles and 11 twin cabins--the "B" deck which has 9 twin cabins. It will sail in the afternoon from the wharf at Milford, cruising Milford Sound for a couple of hours; then a 4-course dinner will be served. The ship will anchor overnight in Harrisons Cove or similar. Entertainment and full bar service in the evening, a hearty New Zealand breakfast the following morning, and the ship should return to the wharf at about 10 am. The cost will run approximately NZ$199, including dinner, breakfast, a welcome drink, and accommodations.

3. The Milford Track Guided Walk is adding more departures so space will be easier to confirm than in the past. In addition to their Te Anau/Te Anau and Queenstown/ Queenstown options which have been running for the past 2 years, they are offering a Te Anau/Queenstown option as well. This will provide walkers with more flexibility in joining the track. Their very popular Milford Track Overnight, Partners Packages, and Celebrity Walks will continue as well.

4. Shortage of Accommodations in Queenstown will begin to see some relief beginning in March 1995. The Gardens Parkroyal will open an additional 54 rooms. In mid-November the Quality Hotel Observatory will open in Queenstown with 220 brand new rooms. Then the Lakeland Hotel promises they will complete an additional 45 rooms by the end of 1995. It is their plan to build an extra 190 room, 5 star hotel on their present site by some date in late 1996 or early 1997.

5. More opportunities to see dolphins--based out of Picton. The 3.5 hour tour including watch/swim dolphins and whales (in season) in Queen Charlotte and Pelorous Sounds will be operating this summer.

6. The Waitangi Resort Hotel is now a Quality Inn establishment. A 1 million dollar "face lift" will begin immediately to refurbish this beautiful property located in Paihia, Bay of Islands. This development is good news for all traveling to the beautiful Northland.

7. Rotorua is getting a new 200 room Novotel. It is expected to open by the end of 1995.

8. In New Zealand's art deco capital Napier, another charming new (old) hotel has been discovered. This little gem was once the Council Chambers and has been brilliantly converted recently. Elegant bedrooms and public rooms, lovingly restored, are a feature of this hotel. The hotel is called the COUNTY HOTEL and has only 12 rooms.

9. Christchurch now has a tram service, beginning February 4, 1995. It will operate from 7AM until 11PM every day of the year continuously. The 3.5 kilometer track includes some of the city's best sights. It is possible to get passes for one hour, four hours, half day & full day.

10. New Lodge/B&B in the Cashmere Hills of Christ-

church. With 5 bedrooms, all with baths, this lodge has

wonderful views, full size snooker table, one acre of garden and much more. This becomes a good alternative for people who want to stay in Christchurch in a fair amount of luxury during times when accommodation is a problem.

11. A new product in Queenstown, called CLASSIC QUEENSTOWN, it involves a flight in a DC-3 Airliner up to Glenorchy, over the Dart & Rees Rivers up to Hikuraki where the DC-3 lands and you are transferred by coach to the Mavora Lakes. The place teems with bird- life and has original stands of exotic native bush seldom seen by visitors. The coach takes you on to Walter Peak sheep station and from there you sail home on the elegant steamer T.S.S. Earnslaw. The 4 hour excursion goes twice a day (8AM & 1PM) and includes all of the features mentioned above, plus morning or afternoon tea.

12. Lastly...for those of you who have been everywhere... what about the CHATHAM ISLANDS? Located about 467 nautical miles from Christchurch, there are two flights per week from there. There is quite a lot to see including Basalt Columns, Blow Holes, a Seal colony, Marion caves and more. The weather...well???

We hope there is something of interest to those fellow New Zealand fanciers in this latest news from SOUTHERN CROSS TOURS, INC., 206 Indiana Ave., Ste B-3, Coeur d'Alene ID 83814. (800) 793-2999.

(Ed.--don't forget that Southern Cross Tours, Inc. are exclusive USA representatives for McDonald Rental Cars--the best possible cars at the best possible rates! Prices start at $30/day, all inclusive. McDonald's gets the highest rave ratings--including mine!)

SOUTH PACIFIC SAILING ADVENTURES LTD.

Update on the South Pacific Treasure Hunt!!

(from Trevor Lund, Director)

The South Pacific Treasure Hunt, organized by Moorings South Pacific Yacht charters in cooperation with Air New Zealand and the New Zealand Tourism Board is going strong with 12 months left to this exciting program.

We have had several flotillas complete their Treasure Hunts, and they have reported a great time, perfect sailing, and a lot of fun solving our clues. Liz Smith from Florida said that she and her husband used 10 rolls of film in their quest for the winning photo.

The Treasure Hunt revolves around a fictitious theme based on the South Pacific adventures of HMS Bounty. During the charter, participants solve clues relating to the geographic, cultural and historic significance of the islands and the local people. Photos that the charterers take while solving clues are entered into categories of action, culture, scenery and humor. The winning photo earns the charterer a BRAND NEW BENETEAU BUILT MOORINGS 405 CHARTER YACHT, called Bounty II. Three other prizes are free one week charter vacations (including air) in one of our South Pacific destinations.

The Treasure Hunt is a unique charter opportun- ity with the added bonus of a magnificent grand prize.

(Contact SOUTH PACIFIC SAILNG ADVENTURES LTD., 2610 So. Harbor Blvd. Suite 201, Oxnard CA 93035 USA. Tel. (800) 815-9499. Fax (805) 985-2170.)

advisable because of demand for beds in huts.

Exploring the coast by sea kayak is hard to beat. Guided kayak (canoe) trips along the Abel Tasman National Park coasthne range from day trips to four day camping tours. Kayak hire is also available to experienced independent paddlers. Even for absolute beginners kayaking is fun and easy; you don't need to be superfit or strong, and paddling technique is quickly mastered. Double kayaks are used for their stability, ease of paddling and spacious storage areas.

Kayaks, paddles, lifejackets, a full safety briefing and tuition are included on all trips, while overnight tours include camping and cooking gear too.

On the summit of Takaka Hill are strange angular marble outcrops while below the surface are some of the deepest cave systems in New Zealand. Plunging a clear 400 yards underground is Harwoods Hole, the deepest vertical drop in New Zealand.

Golden Bay is known for its golden beaches on the eastern side and remote Farewell Spit on the west, where you can take a four wheel drive safari along the 15 mile natural sands1> visit this area each year to feed in rich wetlands protected by the spit.

At Takaka the highway follows the Golden Bay coastline to Collingwood, a small township (pop. around 200) which is the base for expeditions north to Farewell Spit, or into the North West Nelson Forest Park.

Other day trip options from Collingwood are the local rural mail run which visits isolated settlements on the upper West Coast, or a trip up the rugged Aorere Valley to see remnants of New Zealand's first gold rush.

North-West Nelson is a haven for hikers with some rugged country and excellent tracks. One of the best known tracks here is the Heaphy, which connects Nelson with Karamea at the top of the West Coast. The Heaphy is a long (60 mile) steady hike taking four or five days, and is popular with families. Hut accommodation is available along the track.

Coach transport from Nelson city through to Collingwood and to the start of the Heaphy and other tracks means that travelers need not pay for a rental car to sit idle while they walk a track. Public transport is also available from the Karamea (West Coast) end of the Heaphy track, or a flight back to Nelson can be booked.

Travelers planning to hike the Heaphy or other tracks such as the Wangapeka or the Karamea/Mt. Arthur Tablelands can get information on tracks, required fitness and equipment from the Department of Conservation (DOC) office in Nelson city or at Takaka.

The DOC Nelson office can also provide information on day walk and hiking options at Nelson Lakes National Park, an alpine and lake park located 90 minutes drive south-west of Nelson city on the route to the West Coast. This bushclad mountainous country contains Lakes Rotoiti and Rotoroa, both fringed to the water's edge with beech forest. From St. Arnaud, the gateway to the Nelson Lakes National Park, an abundance of activities are accessible,

including snowskiing, rafting, boating, fishing, camping, hiking, swimming and horseriding.

While beaches and forest are the focus for many visitors to the Nelson region, others gravitate there for crafts, wine and food. The region has long enjoyed a reputation as a center for painters, potters, glass blowers and jewelers. Nelson's Suter Art Gallery hosts regular exhibitions as do other smaller galleries.

City and regional brochures, available from visitor information centers, provide travelers with information on craft outlets and studios which can be visited, both for purchases and to watch craftspeople at work. Many studios can handle careful packing and posting of purchases for travelers. Information is also available on museums, Founders Park, and historical homesteads open to the public and providing an insight into the history of New Zealand's oldest city.

Enjoying the most sunshine hours in the country and sheltered by surrounding mountains, Nelson's vineyards produce medal winners and host wine tours popular with visitors to the region. Fruit juices, fruit wines and liqueurs are also made in the area, drawing on the region's extensive horticultural industry.

Fruit juice and wine makers Robinsons have a shop and restaurant at Stoke, on the outskirts of Nelson. Pure juices, dried fruit, local honeys, and homemade jam are all on sale. Orchard founder Thomas Robinson was a good advertisement for the health virtues both of fruit and of Nelson--he began the orchard at the age of 65, married at 71, then fathered four children and lived until he was

91!

Nelson restaurants are strong supporters of locally grown wines and foods and the region's multicultural history is evident in the wide range of restaurants, cafes, winebars, and bars. The region is especially well known for its superb seafood, such as mussels (exported to many countries as kiwiclams), scallops, oysters, seasonal whitebait, geoduck, and many fish varieties.

TRAVEL INFORMATION:

Because of its central location, Nelson is easily accessible to visitors touring New Zealand. Nelson city airport is only a 35 minute flight from capital city Wellington, 50 minutes from international gateway Christchurch, or about one hour 20 minutes from Auckland international airport. The airport is served daily by the main domestic airlines and rental vehicles may be hired at Nelson airport, or in the city itself. Scheduled bus services run daily throughout the region.

Travelers can also bring their own vehicle across from the North Island on the Interislander ferry from Wellington to Picton, the gateway to the South Island. Nelson is 80 miles (an easy one and a half hour drive) from Picton with the added benefit of seeing something of the Marlborough Sounds on the way.

The region offers a range of accommodation from motor inns, motels and motorcamps to bed and breakfast houses, backpacker lodges, older style hotels, home/farm stays and luxury lodges.

For further information contact: New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 300, Santa Monica CA 90401. Ph: (310) 395-7480 or (800) 388-5494.

RECORDING CLUB, TRAVEL CLUBS, ETC.

From Kitty Baier

In September we hosted a guest from New Zealand. Mrs. Phyll Moore, who coordinates the audio-tapes for Silver Fern Recording Club, 9 Kamahi Place, Rotorua NZ, was here with us for a week.

Bob and I joined "Silver Fern" over a year ago and since that time we have enjoyed hearing from members around the world.

The membership costs $15 American annually. We receive an average of one tape per week and usually find the subject matter interesting. Sometimes they are narratives about experiences or hobbies, sometimes musical, and sometimes a collection of items that Phyll calls "Listener's Magazines."

We really enjoyed Phyll's visit. This courageous lady had toured all over the United States, by herself, on a Greyhound Bus! (Ed.--her story follows)

We look forward to hosting other New Zealanders here in our home as of December 1st. Thereby hangs a tale.

On our first night in Auckland, October 1992, our B&B host, John Rose, asked if we were members of "Evergreen". He was surprised when we replied we'd never heard of it, because Evergreen is a travel club that originated in the U.S.

One pays a $50 membership fee for the directory, then may arrange homestays with fellow members. There is a "gratuity" of $15 per night double, for friendly conversation, a comfortable bed, a clean bathroom (sometimes private), and a nutritious breakfast. Fees are slightly higher overseas, but still a tremendous bargain.

Since we joined "Evergreen", we have also become members of "Affordable Travel Club". ATC was organized by former Californians, John and Suzanne Miller, who currently reside in Gig Harbor, WA. The gratuity for an ATC stay is $20 double, B&B.

We are now enthusiastic travelers in both organizations. Using the two directories, we mapped out a month long trip to the American Midwest and had a marvelous time!

If readers of KIWIphile FILE would like more information, contact:

"Evergreen" 404 N. Galena Ave., Dixon IL 61021, (815) 288-9600

"Affordable Travel Club", 6556 Snug Harbor Lane, Gig Harbor WA 98335, (206) 858-2172

Soon we will be taking our turn as hosts to a couple from TeAwamutu, North Island, NZ. We look forward to meeting these new friends.

Bob & Kitty Baler

Anaheim, Calif.

KIWI VISITS U.S. BY GREYHOUND BUS

--from Phyll Moore, Rotorua NZ

So you would not travel by Greyhound Bus? Maybe not if you are American. If you came from an overseas country, such as New Zealand, and did not want to fly because you want to see the countryside, even from a bus window--yes!

You do not want to drive a car, as driving on the wrong side of the road to us is not good. Plus what countryside can you see if your eyes are on the car ahead of you all the time. What's left?? The bus. For some it is not relaxing--to me it is. No matter how you travel there is always a pitfall some place. Put it down to experience and make the best of it.

My congratulations go to the drivers--firstly, they are in the main polite and always ready to help. In 1979 all drivers knew what an "Ameripass" was--this time some did not.

I travel on my own, and found that only once on this recent trip did I find an offensive man. (A cross between an Australian and a very loud American to a New Zealander's point of view!) Ignore him, get to another seat in the bus.

In 1979 all buses left round eight to nine o'clock each morning. Now the hours are further apart and a bit of a nuisance getting in late to one's next stop. Or you had to be at the bus stop by five or six, and that is not for me. I soon learned to have something to eat with me this time as restaurants were either non-existent or closed at bus stops. This could be put to rights, plus better depots nearer the town centres--not way out somewhere so one has to get a taxi.

I travelled from Atlanta up to Indianapolis, across the upper regions of U.S.A., this time Montana, Idaho, into Washington. The scenery was lovely, and if one takes the local bus, not the express, one sees the little towns enroute.

The stops made where food was provided, were in general passable. I am not a McDonalds fan, you see.

My major let-down was my very last stop, at Los Angeles, where the bus was late as it was mostly from Seattle. I was dropped off at that dreadful bus depot in the heart of the city where the riots were, and so many round that one could not trust.

Here I had to use all my nerve to first find my bag that was put through as going to Anaheim. No bus. It had left half an hour before. So what to do?? I phoned my friend so she would know where I was, say what I was about to do, and go to it. A taxi--and one walks slowly past the security men so they can see you, too. Look these guys straight in the eye, and say what you want and mean it. No fooling round, get a price--right, not a cent more from this Kiwi--sorry. I knew it was a long way, but I had to get out.

So if you want to go by Greyhound Bus for the same reason I had, make the most of it, make sure you see your luggage go on, then get on the bus. The drivers are

marvellous, especially the one who drove over the Grapevine into Los Angeles--you could not fault him. For me to travel all those hundreds of miles on a pass that cost me $199 (US) was worth a few hassles, and otherwise an enjoyable holiday. Thank you, Greyhound.

SELF-DRIVE NATURE WATCH HOLIDAY

Designed for independent travelers, "Self-Drive Naturewatch Holiday" includes rental car with unlimited mileage, resource manual, New Zealand road atlas, and return travel from Bluff to Stewart Island.

Enjoy whale-watch excursion plus Kaikoura coastal walk. Relax in hot pools at Hanmer Springs Thermal Resort. Nature walks near the summit of Lewis Pass. Travel to Westland National Park and join a jet-boat trip to White Heron Colony.

Visit Queenstown, Te Anau and Fiordland World Heritage Park. Cruise Milford Sound. Enjoy scenic route to Invercargill and then ferry to Stewart Island. Visit Ulva Island, explore Otago Peninsula and visit the Albatross Colony. Stop at waterfowl reserve and Moeraki Boulders. Enjoy alpine walk at Mount Cook National Park.

Prices range from NZ$1,968 (thro' April 30, '95) to NZ$1,838 (May 1-Sept. 30, '95) for manual 4-door car.

Prices, per person, include all accommodations (home/farm style or motel/hotel) based on twin share or double, 3 daily meals, all transportation during the tour and entrance fees. Transportation to and from tour departure points not included.

Southern Heritage Expeditions, P.O. Box 22, Waikari, North Canterbury, NZ; phone 033144393 or fax 03 314 4237.

OBJECTIVE:

NEW ZEALAND

Communique' # 4.0

Note: This is the last of the series in which Allan and Martha (also known as the "A&M Team") finally accomplish their mission. The mission was "to assimilate as much of New Zealand as possible in 21 days..."

Having completed our reconnaissance of South Island, the A&M Team continued on to the North Island, circumnavigating the Coromandel Peninsula in the process. If we were to maintain our military efficiency, we had one more week to finish. Quickly, we set our sights on our next objective, the famous glowworm caves of Waitomo. They are very "touristy" but worth putting up with all the "hype" to see.

So, departing from Thames, we headed southwest to Hamilton, a rather ordinary city of about 100,000 that serves as a center for the surrounding farming area. While not even listed as a "destination" in the Frommer's Guide, it is a pleasant city (and NZ's largest inland city) which deserves a stop if for nothing more than their gardens and riverwalk area. Turning almost due south out of Hamilton, we passed through the town of Ohaupo. While passing through, we noticed a meat shop and we were both struck with the same idea: why not get some lamb chops and fixings and BBQ them tonight?

The meat shop proprietor was very helpful and had not only the freshest lamb chops we'd ever seen, but he cut them as thick as we wanted. As long as we were doing the typical tourist routine this day, we thought: why not go all the way and stay at a motel called the "Glowworm Motel"?

Again we were pleasantly surprised. Of course the motel did not have the ambiance of a homestay, but it had other positive attributes. For example, unlike North American motels, NZ motels usually come with a fully equipped kitchen and even provide the ritual bottle of milk each morning! The Glowworm had a sizeable pool and a spacious suite of rooms to match. The price was very reasonable... especially considering we were just down the road from the caves. The owners kindly let us borrow their grill and we proceeded to "throw a lambie on the barbie" washed down with some of the wine we still carried from Blenheim (see communique' #2). Wonderful!

The caves were worth the hassle of umpteen bus-loads of tourists all trying to squeeze through a hole in the ground at the same time. The limestone caverns are cathedral-like, and interestingly enough, people's voices also became church whispers. If the caves were magical, then the boat tour through the glowworm grotto in Waitomo Cave was surreal!

We had one of our few reservations at the Pineapple Cottage B&B in the Mt. Eden section of Auckland, so we retraced our steps northward. We stopped again in the little town where we had bought our lamb chops, for a late lunch. We randomly selected a place called the Ohaupo Tavern. What a surprise! Allan ordered a "seafood harvest" which was huge and delicious, seved in an upscale dining room beautifully set with full service amenities...costing only NZ$7. The same dish would cost NZ$18 in just a few hours on the dinner menu. So if you get a chance, definitely stop for lunch! We arrived at John and Sheila Rose's late in the afternoon.

John was one of the "secret agents" in NZ who helped the A&M Team gather intelligence prior to jump-off. His knowledge of the B&B system is legendary and his warm willingness to help travelers in any way is the epitome of his homestay's symbol, the pineapple.. .the 19th century icon of hospitality. Unfortunately, as reported in last issue of the FILE, Sheila has fallen ill and the Pineapple Cottage has suspended operations. (Get well, Sheila!!!)

As we dropped our dufflebags, John suggested that the timing would be right to catch the sunset from atop Mt. Eden, so off we ran! WOW! What a panorama! The view from the extinct volcano would be breathtaking any time, but the sunset made it awesome! Don't miss this experience. We wanted to linger until full darkness so that we could see the city lights, but our appetites overcame this thought quickly. We drove to the commercial center of Mt. Eden and started scouting for a restaurant. Having a choice

of several good prospects, we chose the Berliner German Restaurant, just for something different. Based on our years of experience in Germany we deemed the cuisine authentic and the schnitzel unt spaetzle sehr gut! That night we slept as soundly as the seven volcanoes of Auckland!

The next day the team got lazy and succumbed to the hominess of the Pineapple Cottage and the warm friendliness of the Roses. We talked and relaxed for most of the day. Nice people. Late afternoon we decided to begin our exploration of the city. We ended up on Queen Street doing a lot of window-shopping. Near the main library, just off Queen Street (possibly on Wellesley St. East), we discovered a fantastic Chinese restaurant. We lost its name, but it cannot be missed. It's in an eight- story Pagoda-style building, with red roofs and stands out distinctly. This is not your normal, inexpensive, family-style Chinese restaurant. This is fine dining, Chinese style...marble columns, mirrored ceilings, plush carpeting, etc. We could not help but to choose the amazing 30 foot, two-tiered buffet. Everything was put out fresh constantly, and of the highest quality and choice, including a full dessert section. Included in the NZ$25 price was even your choice of alcoholic drinks! This was the finest and fanciest Chinese dining we have ever experienced.

Walking back to the car, the team noticed a poster for a boxing match which announced that tomorrow night the first Title fight ever was to be held in NZ. Being boxing fans, we decided that it would be kind of a neat way to stay current in our hand-to-hand combat skills. We called it a night and went back to our Pineapple Cottage.

After a great breakfast prepared by the Roses, we continued our exploration of the Auckland area. We did most of the "city things" and ended up, interestingly enough, in a suburb called Devonport. What a neat place! Since it's on a peninsula directly north of Auckland, across the bay, it is a "destination" not accidentally discovered by driving through, but well worth visiting. Don't miss Devonport's volcano (with a military instal- lation on the top), the old guns that defended the bay, the wonderful and varied architecture of the homes, the unique shopping, and the popular beaches. Devonport is conveniently reached by a relaxing ferryboat ride from Auckland. That night we drove to the large sports arena complex and saw the championship fight. It was exciting and we even met the famous American trainer Lou Duva!

By the next day we felt so at home with the Roses that Allan volunteered to make one of his special Ukrainian breakfasts for everyone! Afterward we "did the malls". First we went to St. Luke's Mall, which was nice, but the next, Manukau Mall, was as big, varied, and beautiful as any in the states, and we took the rest of the day to explore. However Martha had stopped making comments about how cute sheep were and we knew this meant that we had dallied in the city too long. The next morning we departed for our drive to the Bay of Islands. Leaving the Pineapple Cottage was like leaving home. It had provided

a nice respite in our busy schedule.

The drive to the Bay of Islands was the type of uneventful drive normally associated with big highways the world over...not a lot of fun, but you make good time... and we did. Arriving at Paihia, we drove around to get our bearings and to look for a nice place to stay. We spotted a sign saying words to the effect "Try us, we only expensive." Well, we did, they weren't, so we stayed. The place was the Abel Tasman Lodge, which was not only on the waterfront, but also had some nice amenities and a great view. For dinner we ate at "Just Seafood" and had some exquisite salmon.

The weather the next day was so beautiful that we had no other choice but to rent a 16 foot boat, powered by a 60 HP engine. Quite a nice little package. We are experienced boaters and keep our 40 foot Express Cruiser on the Chesapeake Bay, and we were really looking forward to the experience so we could compare the two cruising areas. Martha piloted the boat and we explored this pristine bay until mid-day. Then we found a secret little bay, dropped our hook and had an on-board lunch of Blenheim wine (we did stock up!), epicure cheddar cheese, and some locally made bread. It doesn't get any better than this! Allan took the helm for the return trip. The comparison? Well, let's just say that the Bay of Islands is incomparable! That night we enjoyed a relaxing, candle-lit soak in the lodge's spa.

With Martha declaring that this was her favorite place in NZ, we left Paihia and drove to nearby Waitangi and visited the famous Meeting House. This is not to be missed, not only for its beauty but also its tremendous historic significance. On the way back to Auckland, just outside of Paihia, while passing by the Opua Forest. we noticed a sign for a Kauri tree grove, so we detoured off the main road. After a 14km drive on a dirt road, we came to a tiny parking spot. Here we would continue our quest on foot. But before we did we checked out a scenic view point.., and we were glad we did! We had climbed quite high during our drive, but did not really notice until we looked down and saw the town of Paihia, about as large as your fist! Talk about a photo opportunity! There was a sign indicating that there was a walking path that would take you to Paihia. It would be a great trek, but we'd rather walk down than up!

The path to the Kauri was beautiful. We were the only ones on this mountain and after a while we became aware of the absolute silence. A little later we became aware that it was not so silent. The sound of the forest opened up to us... the rustle of leaves, the sound of birds... and then our path suddenly became a raised wooden walkway. Coming from New Jersey, we called it our boardwalk of the forest. The boardwalk terminated at a Kauri grove and had park benches so that one could sit and contemplate. What we contemplated on was the biggest, most beautiful tree we had ever seen in our whole lives! It is under circumstances such as this that you realize the real shame that these giants have been decimated.

Returning to the main highway, our trip back to

Auckland was uneventful and we made only two stops. The first was at a marina where we just checked out how Kiwis might be different in their gear and approach to boating. We were surprised to find there were a lot of fellow power-boaters here. It's just hard to see them behind all the sails! Our second stop was at the Puhoi Hotel bar. It was off the highway and the only reason we even knew about it was that John Rose said we must see it... but he wouldn't say why! Well, the hotel was in a little valley settled by Bohemians! There is a reason why in the pre- hippie, pre-beatnik days of old that the original name was Bohemians. Anyway, stop for a cool one at the bar and add it to your memory bank. We got "home" (Pineapple Cottage) early evening. We spent the next day seeing more of Auckland and getting organized for the flight.

What a heartbreaker! It was our last day in New Zealand. We said our good-byes and turned our rental car into McDonalds. They in turn drove us to the airport, which was very convenient. We flew to Sydney where we put our main bags in a locker and then shuttled to the Airport where we spent the night. The next day we flew to Honolulu by way of Osaka. We spent four days in Honolulu at the Armed Forces Recreation Area. The hotel is called the Hale Koa and it's a great benefit for active and retired military personnel. We recharged our batteries on the beach for a few days before flying home to New Jersey. Many people forget to take a vacation after they finish their vacation.., so that they can arrive home rested!!!

AFTER-ACTION REPORT:

The A&M Team report total success in mission accomplishment. Not only were we able to "assimilate as much of New Zealand as possible in 21 days," but at no time did we feel we were doing too much, going too fast, or that we did not have the flexibility to deviate or delay when the opportunity arose. The secret to this success is the method we described in Communique' # 1.0.

So the A&M Team proved that New Zealand can be done in 21 days. However if anyone is thinking of awarding us with medals for such a successful mission, please... we'd rather have return airline tickets!

End of Transmission....

LYTTELTON BED & BREAKFAST

After ten years enjoying the mountains, lakes, rivers and climate of Wanaka in central Otago (not to mention a large garden and tennis court), Judy and Jonathan Elworthy surprised themselves and their families, when they bought a large old villa in Lyttelton near Christchurch. They moved in a few weeks before Christmas, and have spent a month putting the house together and making it look and feel like home. Judy is an interior designer, so that side of things is pretty easy, but it takes more than a designer to make a home, and visitors have felt the specialness of the place immediately.

The original part of the house was built about 1870, and it has been added to over the years.

Guests have the choice of two double rooms, and one single room in the original part of the house. Up the narrow steep stairs are two spacious and comfortable attic bedrooms. The double room overlooks the harbour and all the late afternoon sun streams in. A magnificent view, day and night. Opposite is a single room looking up the top garden.

"We envisage having just one couple up here most times, so they can spread themselves out, and have a bed each if they so desire," Judy told me. Having travelled extensively themselves, they both are aware of the need for space and privacy, while enjoying the company of hosts when it suits both parties.

"During our travels through Germany, Wales and U.S.A. last year, we stayed mainly at B&B's, and enjoyed it all as much, we hope, as the many guests who've stayed with us," said Jonathan.

On the ground floor is a charming twin room, known as granny's room, ideal for the less agile and close to the guest bathroom. The bathroom is large and has the original timber flooring. For those who long to have a long hot soak, there is a wonderful outdoor bath in a secluded spot, with plenty of hot water on hand to top it up...a great idea after a long day exploring, and a cold beer or a glass of wine can be provided, too.

If you like talking politics, you'll find Jonathan a mine of information (he was a member of parliament at one time). If you don't, his other passion is walking. Judy and Jonathan are excited about the wonderful walks at their back door.

The first European settlers arrived at the port of Lyttelton, and walked over the hills and settled on the flat plains now called Christchurch--a foolish decision according to Judy. "Christchurch and Canterbury generally are exposed to both cool north easterlies (similar to San Francisco) and strong hot Nor'westers. We are amazed at the micro climate we have here. Over this summer we have had barbecues regularly, and sit out on the lovely verandah until the sun sets just before 9 o'clock." You can walk over the same path as the early settlers (known as the Bridle Path) or how about a walk along steep cliffs to explore tunnels and gun emplacements, remnants from the last world war.

If you plan well ahead, there are several walks taking 4 days around the hills and seashores of Banks Peninsula. Judy and Jonathan are booked to do one of these walks in March. And then of course you are in a wonderful position to explore Christchurch. It takes just 15 minutes to get into the centre of the city. Theatre, art, the gardens, the buildings, await you. But after that you can return to the other world of Lyttelton. The port is always busy, and you can take numerous excursions on the harbour. In the evening there are an amazing array of pubs, good restaurants, and wine bars to choose from. Try the Lava Bar, and the Volcano Restaurant, or for something a little quieter, try Small's. And a must for later is the zany Wunderbar.

You can write to Judy and Jonathan Elworthy at 49 Sumner St., Lyttelton, NZ. Tel/fax 613-328-8877.

Bed and anything you would like for breakfast is NZ$50 per person. Dinner by arrangement.

NEWZGRAM--The News Aerogramme of New Zealand

(Newzgram is a four page news aerogramme produced twice a month for Kiwis living abroad [and those of us who live elsewhere but love NZ.] For more information or a free sample, write to Newzgram, P0 Box 3882, Christchurch NZ. Ph. 3 355 9222/fax 3 355 9337.)

From Newzgram:

FERRIES CREATE WAVES OF CONTROVERSY

The introduction of fast ferry services across Cook Strait has been greeted with enthusiasm by travellers, but with growing concern by environmentalists and residents of the Marlborough Sounds.

NZ Rail, which operates the 74m catamaran The Lynx says record numbers of people crossed the Strait during the Christmas holidays, which is "good news for tourism in the Marlborough and the Wellington regions."

But some Marlborough residents say the cost to the local environment has been too great. A Department of Conservation investigation found that waves created by the new ferries were causing widespread disturbance to marine life. Starfish, paua, kina and sea lettuce were being washed above the high tide mark, and blue mussels were being buried by pebbles and coarse sand. Large rocks were being shifted more than 7m.

NZ Rail's fast ferry competitor, Sea Shuttles, has been plagued by engine and steering problems, and had its operating licence temporarily withdrawn by the Marine Safety Authority.

Both vessels struck problems on their delivery voyages late last year. The Lynx hit a whale off the NZ coast, and a log was sucked into a jet intake on the Sea Shuttles monohull near Indonesia. Since arriving, both vessels have been ordered to reduce speed in Wellington Harbour, adding up to 10 minutes to their Cook Strait travelling times.

The new vessels cross the strait in under two hours.

From Newzgram:

Foreign Minister Don McKinnon is hopeful Prime Minister Jim Bolger will be invited to visit Washington "in the not too distant future." Top-level relations between NZ and the US have been strained since NZ banned nuclear ship visits En the 1980s. McKinnon told an American audience in New York that "it is time to begin to find ways...for our two countries to work together more often."

From Newzgram:

NZ received wildly differing reviews from two recent visitors to the country. An American

religious studies professor wrote in a US magazine that Kiwis were "coldly intolerant of difference, patronising to Maori, scarcely pretending to tolerate Chinese, Indians, and Jews." A columnist for The Times newspaper in London, Bernard Levin, wrote that NZ was the most tolerant place in the world: This is a country at ease with itself... It is the least vain country in the world, though it has much to boast about."

(Ed. If you would like to see a sample copy of Newzgram, please send a stamped, self-addressed envelope to me.)

ISLAND CHARMS CLOSE TO CITY--NZ Star-Times

On a clear day in Auckland a humpy shadow is visible on the eastern horizon--the mountains and ridges of Great Barrier Island.

Eighty-eight kilometres from Auckland and easily accessible by regular boat service, the island offers an environment in huge contrast to the city.

It is a slice of down to earth New Zealand, a place of rugged, rangy beauty populated by colourful characters who cope with, and love, the isolated island life.

The island is close to 80km long and between 10km and 30km wide. On the east coast sweeping sandy bays, famous for surf, alternate with cliffs and rocky headlands.

On the western side native bush edges quiet inlets with water so clear you can see the mussels growing on the bottom and schools of passing fish.

At most times accommodation is plentiful at eight different places offering home comfort rather than luxury, and at several backpacker lodges.

The isolation and "islandness" of Great Barrier have produced something that is different. I regularly encountered the unexpected.

We ordered a hire car at Fitzroy and I waited at the wharf expecting something small and Japanese, or maybe a neat 4WD wagon. A dusty purple Ford Escort, not of recent vintage, pulled up and a farmer of uncertain age got out and strolled towards us.

"Claris Rental Cars," he said, and added that we would need to "drop him over the hill."

He drove the metal roads at a snail's pace while keeping us amused with a steady but slow flow of conversation.

His family has lived on the island for many generations and he said he had a document signed in 1855 by all the Maori chiefs, selling much of the land to Queen Victoria.

We had a gorgeous day frolicking in the surf on deserted beaches, lying in the sun a little too long, and enjoying a picnic with bread hot from the oven at Tryphena. In the late afternoon we went to Bob and Tipi's Bar at Puriri Bay, sat outside in the garden and watched the locals come and go.

The bar at The Lost Resort on Kaikoura Island in the middle of Fitzroy Harbour also had a surprise. While we were enjoying summer shandies on a wide, covered

deck and looking through the pines at yachts at anchor in the bay, an enormous pink pig sauntered up, stuck her snout through the rails and snorted in a begging manner for potato crisps.

We were boating back to a bay one night when dolphins played in our bow waves. The water loaded with phospherescence and these great fish looked like torpedoes as their iridescent forms flipped and dived behind us.

The Department of Conservation does an excellent job maintaining tracks and huts in luxuriant native forest. For the enthusiastic, the view from the top of Mt. Hobson is worth every step of the four-hour trek. You can see the entirety of this splendid island, many of the other islands in the gulf, and Coromandel Peninsula across the channel.

Less energetic walkers may want to take the gentle incline of an old tram track from Whangaparapara to Kaitoke Hot Springs. They are fun to soak in, and you can apply your own mud pack.

It is possible to make a day trip to Great Barrier Island, but do not unless you are really pressed for time. It is a rare place and one needs at least two or three days to slow down and appreciate its laidback style and untamed beauty.

Great Barrier Airlines (275-9120) flies from Mangere at least twice daily to both Great Barrier airfields with transfers to Tryphena. The return fare is NZ$140.

Fullers Quick Cat departs Auckland daily until January 15, then five days a week until April. The return fare is NZ$99.

Prices for accommodation range from about NZ$15 to $129 a night for dormitory beds, motels, cottages and holiday lodges. Ring Jenny, Barrier accommodation consultant, at 367-9122, for availability.

PATTY'S PLACES

New Zealand - Oct. 27 - Nov. 19, 1995. Our tour here is so well planned, prepared and carried out, we must go again. Another green jewel covered with sheep enhanced by a unique folk culture, the Maoris. Paul, our driver extraordinaire has all the information you ever wanted to know and works well with the group to "see it all".

Starting in the north Bay of Islands, Auckland, Rotorua, south to Wellington, cross over to the South Island with same coach and driver to do the west coast, with TeAnau, Queenstown, Mt. Cook and Christchurch. Farm stay is a highlight along with special luncheons & dinners, museums, sheep shows and all the rest.

Patty's Places, 1251 N.W. 195th St., Seattle WA 98177. Ph. 206-546-6717.

CULTURAL TREASURES OF NEW ZEALAND

The rich culture of the Maori, New Zealand's founding people, is now more accessible to visitors thanks to a new brochure that lists guides who can open doors to unforgettable, insider glimpses of Maori life.

The Maori Cultural Heritage Guide , available through the New Zealand Tourism Board, is a handy reference to 10 of the country's leading tour operators. It describes each operator's specialities, how much you'll pay and gives telephone and fax numbers for bookings and information.

Part of the New Zealand experience includes shopping for carved wood, greenstone (jade) and bone mementos, enjoying the traditional hangi feasts and spine-tingling chants by grass-skirted warriors in choreographed dances. Knowledgeable operators know the best places, the best bargains, how to get there and what to see.

For a free copy of the Maori Cultural Heritage Guide

New Zealand Tourism Board,

501 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 300, Santa Monica CA 90401. Ph. (310) 395-7480 or (800) 388-5494.

BITS AND PIECES

* According to International Living's annual quality of life index, New Zealand has again placed in the top ten (as did the US). Switzerland won overall. Internation al Living , Agora Inc., 824 E. Baltimore St., Baltimore MD 21202-4799.

* The runaway bestseller in the US Why Cats Paint was written by New Zealanders Heather Busch and Burton Silver. More than 300,000 copies have been sold in the US, and the book is selling well also in Australia and the UK. Did you know that there are cat art societies and that there are magazines like Cat Art Today?

* Are you aware of Air New Zealand's special:

Purchase one round trip economy ticket from L.A. to

Auckland and bring a companion for $499. (Ed.-I'm

going in June and could share the bargain with someone.

Let me know. Must be purchased by Mar. 31.)

SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS

Do you have some thoughts to share with fellow travelers to New Zealand? Please send them in and we'll print them in the next KlWlphile FILE. Thank you.

Ed-If you'd like a copy of an article on how to get around on special buses for backpackers and hostelers in NZ, send me an SASE. Article was in the LA. Times, 2/ 5/95.

KIA ORA !