Volume VIII, No. 3

MARCH 1996

A HAVEN OF TRANQUILITY

by Michael Vaughan

The serene atmosphere of Lake Taupo in the central North Island of New Zealand belies a turbulent past. Gazing across its shimmering waters on a balmy summer's day, it is hard to believe that one of the most violent eruptions the world has known occurred in this idyllic setting.

In geological terms, this massive explosion happened quite recently - only 1800 years ago. Centered near the Horomatangi reef, it was so great that it lowered the level of the lake by 65 feet and sent huge showers of debris across the North Island. For 12 months or more, a cloud of darkness hung over New Zealand and much of the southern hemisphere.

But this was a cloud with a silver lining. For today, the scenic splendor of Australasia's largest fresh- water lake (240 square miles) is one of New Zealand's premier attractions, with the snow-capped peaks of Mounts Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro providing the perfect backdrop. And digging a little deeper reveals an astonishing range of landscapes and activities within easy reach of Taupo and nearby Turangi.

A haven for watersports enthusiasts, Lake Taupo is generally alive with windsurfers, jetskiers, parasailers and waterskiers - to name but a few of the activities on show. Pedal boats and watersports equipment are readily available - in fact, if you can drive on it, ride on it, sail on it or sit on it, you can almost certainly hire it along the town's colorful foreshore.

A multitude of rivers flow into the lake at various points around its perimeter, tumbling through impressive, bush-clad gorges en route. A drive into the hills near Turangi at Lake Taupo's southern end gives panoramic views across radiant blue waters surrounding Motutaiko Island - this home of giant land snails plugs the heart of a deep volcano. However, the true character of Lake Taupo and the unpredictability of its shore line are best appreciated from the water.

More than 50 boats of various types are available for charter, mostly based at Taupo's busy marina.

The best choice of vessel depends upon your main interest. If sightseeing is a priority, one of the larger launches would enable you to enjoy the glorious, remote western bays inaccessible to smaller boats - the lake can become surprisingly rough in adverse conditions. The fleet of small owner-operated craft will not venture so far - but their captains are generally steeped in local knowledge, providing an intimate experience of the lake.

Sailing enthusiasts may prefer to opt for "Barbary", a two-masted, ketch-rigged yacht which became Errol Flynn's property after a poker game. After he sold her, "Barbary" spent World War II in Fiji and participated in the Mururoa Atoll protests against French nuclear testing. Wrecked in a storm in 1975, the battered hulk was bought by present owner Bill Dawson who devoted himself to restoring the sailboat to its original 1920's design.

Another vessel of unusual design and history is Jack Grice's brightly-colored "Ernest Kemp". Positively reeking with character, this refurbished ferry boat from a by-gone era adds its unique atmosphere to a cruise on the lake.

Visitors keen to net a few of Lake Taupo's famous rainbow trout may charter a purpose-built fishing boat. Don't be surprised if you are offered the services of a Spotty Gold or a Parson's Glory - they are types of trout fly carried by any freshwater fisherman worth his salt. Trout fishing in the area's lakes and rivers is world-renowned for the size, quality and numbers of fish as well as the surrounding natural beauty. Restaurants are prevented by law from including trout on their menus - but there are plenty in Taupo and Turangi that will prepare a delicious meal from specimens which you have caught yourself.

Whichever type of craft you choose for your voyage on the great lake, a coastline rich in variety and interest is waiting to be explored. Sheer rock faces rise dramatically from sparkling waters to form towering, tree- covered cliffs - and a succession of secluded, tranquil bays offer perfect conditions for swimming and sunbathing. Around Rangatira Point, the unsuspecting visitor is greeted by a massive rock carving created by a local craftsman and fellow enthusiasts. Despite its age-old appear-

Despite its age-old appearance, it was carved into the sheer rock wall just 14 years ago and its traditional style complements the surrounding natural beauty.

In stark contrast to the peaceful atmosphere and vivid colors of Lake Taupo, the Kaimanawa Ranges to the southeast of the town offer an exciting, wild-west style terrain. Part of a volcanic plateau which stretches from Lake Taupo to the Bay of Plenty, much of this land appears austere and arid - yet it has a charm all of its own.

Surveying the scene from a mountain summit, you can view wild horses galloping through the tussock, arousing a chorus of alarm calls from plentiful birdlife - shrieks of indignation from larks and yellowhammers, shrill cries from the throats of invisible hinds - until a calm settles over the bush once more. And as sunset approaches, the silhouettes of hares, rabbits and even rare Sika deer can be seen in the valleys and clearings of this magical terrain. A number of tour operators organize hunting and horse-trekking expeditions - and four wheel drive trips provide an exciting exploration of the rugged wilderness.

Wairakei Park, five miles from Taupo, is an area of bubbling mud pools, steaming vents and lunar- like landscapes, aptly-named "Craters of the Moon".

Nearby, in the midst of frothing whitewater beneath the famous Huka Falls visitors may enjoy a trip on New Zealand's longest river, the Waikato, in contrasting styles - choosing the exhilaration of jetboating, the character and charm of an historic, 1900's-designed riverboat or a helicopter view.

Within easy day-tripping distance are the colorful silica terraces, varied geysers and natural caves of Orakei Korako, on the banks of Lake Ohakuri - the magnificent Tongariro National Park is less than an hour's drive from the town. With the added attractions of top-quality golf courses, whitewater rafting on several nearby rivers, thermal pools in which to wallow in the cool of the evening and Huka Village's restored cottages, shops and restaurants, it is no wonder that many visitors go to Taupo or Turangi for a week and end up staying for three.

Further information can be obtained from the

New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica

Boulevard, Suite #300, Santa Monica CA 90401. Ph: (310) 395-7480 or (800) 388-5494.

BACKPACKERS (NZ Herald)

From south to north, Northland's Kahoe Farm is among the top five backpacker hostels in New Zealand. The farm overlooking Whangaroa Harbour received a 95 per cent customer satisfaction rating in the last Backpacker Accommodation in New Zealand brochure.

The brochure, published by the Budget Backpacker hostels, lists the backpackers' satisfaction rates from a survey of 170 independent hostels around New Zealand.

Other hostels with a rating of more than 90 per cent were Paekakariki Backpackers and The Lazy Fish in Queen Charlotte Sound, Russell's Arcadia Lodge and The Tree House in the Hokianga settlement of Kohukohu.

Copies of the free brochures are available from visitor information centres throughout New Zealand, or Mark Dumble at Budget Backpackers Hostels of New Zealand, 99 Titiraupenga St., Taupo.

From one success to what could be another: an Auckland company has started low-cost bus tours around New Zealand.

Brookes and Lakes Travel without Boundaries offers 10-day trips from Auckland through the North island and south to Queenstown. The $995 cost includes the bus trip, breakfasts, ferry crossing, accommodation and some sightseeing.

A spokeswoman says the company aimed to attract young backpackers, but so far most interest is from older people.

Details: Brookes and Lakes, Box 2205, Auckland.

TRAVELING LIGHT WORKS BEST

by Steve Hopkins, Wisconsin State Journal

The main thing to remember when packing for a trip to New Zealand is that it's almost impossible to dress badly there.

That's not just my impression.

"Most New Zealanders wear old shapeless hats," wrote Paul Theroux in The Happy Isles of Oceania. "You see a lot of beards and knee socks. And sweaters."

Edward Kanze, in Notes from New Zealand, described a friend thusly: "He was wearing battered sandals, short pants, a well-worn summer weight sport coat and a few crumbs of toast from the morning's breakfast."

I found the descriptions accurate when I stepped from an airplane and into the terminal at Auckland on a Sunday afternoon near the end of the New Zealand summer. I immediately liked the New Zealand look. It was, well, comfortable and showed a genuine lack of pretense and self-consciousness. Frances and I were prepared to fit right in.

We had left Madison for a month or more of travel more than half-way around the world, each carrying only a small backpack and a carry-on shoulder bag.

New Zealand, too, you should know, lies in what is known as the Temperate Zone, within which seasonal differences are not great. The warmest is at the top of the North Island, where a woman orchardist told us they generally get no more than a light frost in the winter. The coolest weather lies in the Southern Alps on the South Island.

My entire New Zealand wardrobe consisted of two long-sleeved cotton shirts, two T-shirts, a pair of cotton khaki trousers and a pair of shorts, a wool sweater, two pair of shoes, a half-dozen bandanas and a week's supply of socks and underwear. Frances' wardrobe was roughly the female equivalent of the same.

The carry-on bags held toilet gear, binoculars, cameras, film, books, maps, travel guides, passports, entry visas, other miscellaneous items. There never was a time during the entire trip when either of us expressed regrets about not bringing more with us.

I have taken more gear on a three-day trip to Minneapolis, and brought most of it back home unworn and unused.

Travel writer Paul Theroux, again, has written about traveling light that "the great thing was to have no more than you could carry comfortably and never to carry formal clothes - suits, ties, shiny shoes, extra sweaters."

I recommend it. But it is only fair to say that after a month of shopping in New Zealand, Australia, and Japan that we had considerably more baggage on the return trip.

It made quite a mound of baggage, I will admit. I wish I knew what the Japanese taxi driver at the airport in Osaka was muttering under his breath while he was trying to stuff it all in the trunk of his tiny cab.

HOW WE VISITED NEW ZEALAND

by Nana Norris, Hawaii

Lorey and I took our long awaited trip to Australia and New Zealand in March of 1995. We were gone three wonderful weeks, and wish it could have been three more. I hope you all get the opportunity to travel to these two beautiful and interesting countries.

Getting there was an adventure all in itself. I had a free trip on United courtesy of Mileage Plus. However, United does not fly directly to Australia or New Zealand any longer from Honolulu. So I had to fly from Maui to Honolulu, Honolulu to LA and LA to Sydney. The L.A to Sydney part alone was 13 hours non-stop, add to that the rest of the journey, and I was pretty tired getting to the Land Down Under.

Lorey, on the other hand, flew from Honolulu to Sydney. Her flight was about ten hours. She got there two days ahead of me, and had no difficulty in finding her way about, and enjoying some of the best of the Australian beers doing it. Per Lorey, she enjoyed pub fife. She even met a real Crocodile Dundee type who invited us into the bush for a visit. Unfortunately, time did not allow us to make this trip - perhaps next time.

By the time I arrived two days later, Lorey was exhausted from her touring about, sipping of brew, and staying in a noisy hostel. Oh, yes, the hostel. We were trying to curb expenses, so she booked herself into a hostel until I arrived. It's been awhile since either one of us has done the group living thing, and it was something of an adjustment (understatement), to share a bathroom with several other women (young, young, young), climb into a top bunkbed in a small dorm room, find a place for your backpack among other backpacks, clothes and personal effects strewn about the room and try to sleep with the constant comings and goings of your roommates.

So, when Queen of the May (guess who) arrived, Lorey was a tad bit tired and cranky (understatement again). Then began the most challenging part of our vacation - the first outing of the lefthand side drive and driver in the city of Sydney. Before I continue, I must tell you there was a third member of our group: my friend Ken whom I have known for over 30 years. All of us adventurous souls piled into the car, Lorey behind the wheel, and away we went out onto the freeways of Sydney. May I say it was an experience to fly through traffic at 70 miles an hour on the wrong side of the road with Lorey muttering Oh God, Oh God, Oh God. Fortunately, her mutterings were overheard in the right places, and we safely made our lodgings.

Australia turned out to be more interesting than I had imagined. It is not only varied and unique, but it has a feeling of vitality about it. Another great feature was how nice everyone was to us. We never got any sneers or go home tourist attitudes.

The highlight of the trip for me was holding the cuddly Koala bear, petting the kangaroos and wallabies, seeing the salt water crocodiles (called Salties), and other animals and birds indigenous to Australia.

Our stay was too brief, only five days, and we were off to New Zealand. On this leg of the trip, all of us flew together--I in Business Class, and Lorey and Ken in steerage. You know Lorey--she managed to talk the flight attendants into letting her go up the stairs to Business to visit me, and even managed to go into the cockpit for a chat with the flight crew. If Business Class had not been full, I am certain she would have made arrangements to be moved there also.

New Zealand, the land of my dreams. The Maori's call it "The Land of the Long White Cloud". It truly is beautiful everywhere you go. The main thrust of my trip there was to see all the gorgeous scenery, and stake out a place to maybe call home in later years.

We were on the go the entire two weeks we were there. NZ has wonderful roads, but outside the Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch areas, they are two lane highways, not four, and everyone shares them - including the sheep.

Like Australians, the people are friendly and helpful. They are more reserved than the Australians; something like the Yanks vs the Canadians.

Sitting here a few months after the trip, I'm trying to focus on the images I retain of New Zealand. These are mine based on my perceptions of what I saw, and what is important to me.

Remember small towns years ago? Well, they still exist in New Zealand. Every large city and town has butcher shops, bakeries, grocery stores, etc.; you may also have a small or large mall, but the individual merchants are stilt there, too. The Kiwis are really into environmental concerns. The country has hiking trails and cabins from one end to the other. Many Kiwis travel their country on bicycle, on foot or motorcycle. Most houses do not have screens on their windows. They do have

some insects, so why they do not have screens I do not know.

Clean is a good word to describe most of New

Zealand. Restrooms, even in the most remote places, are clean and graffiti free. The food can be boring if you do not like meat pies, baked goods and more meat pies. Strangely enough, you do not see as much mutton or lamb on menus as you would think. I happen to like meat pies, bakery goods and lamb, so I was not too bored, but Lorey and Ken wanted something more exciting after the first week - they did not get their wish.

Things are expensive in New Zealand. With a favorable exhange rate, we did ok, but still not as good as in the U.S. Here on Maui, when the tourist season is slow, we can buy t-shirts 3 for $10. In NZ the least expensive t-shirt ran about US$21. We went shopping and found a woman's store selling Levis for over NZ$100 or about US$70. How the Kiwis exist on their salaries, I do not know. I also learned Kiwis travel more than most any other people.

The highlight of this trip - I guess the last two days we spent on the Coromandel Peninsula. It is one of the places the Kiwis go to vacation. The Peninsula is only a couple of hours from Auckland, but a world away. It is quiet, rugged and beautiful. We stayed in a bed and breakfast place that was lovely. It was on a hill that overlooked a picturesque bay, had splendid rooms and a gourmet dinner and breakfast. What a way to end the vacation of a lifetime'

The next time you think of a vacation destination, consider Australia and New Zealand. You won't be disappointed if you love friendly people, breathtaking scenery and a place where optimism is still popular.

100 YEARS OF RUGBY LEAGUE - New Zealand Post

It was on 29 August 1895 that 22 rugby union clubs in England's industrial north held a meeting in Huddersfield and voted to quit the (English) Rugby Football Union (RFU) and form their own organisation. Their dissatisfaction stemmed from the RFU's refusal to allow players to be compensated financially for taking time off work to play rugby. The rest is history...an action-packed century of it.

Rugby league in New Zealand grew out of the original All Black tour of Britain in 1905-6. Some of the touring New Zealanders watched league, which by that time had also made its departure from many of the rules of union, and were impressed with the new game.

Rugby league's development was gradual in New Zealand over the first half of the twentieth century. Since the 1960s however, it has made undoubted inroads into rugby union's dominance. Television helped generate interest in the fast-paced, bruising game. Test matches involving the national team - the "Kiwis" - started to draw large audiences in living rooms all over the country.

All the hype and excitement at the high performance end of the sport is supported by a solid foundation. A domestic national club competition was launched in 1994, and growth at junior levels is constant.

SCENIC PAEKAKARIKI WAS A WWII

TRAINING GROUND - By Dennis A. Cavagnaro

(from NAVY TIMES)

Novelist Leon Uris recalls his military experience at Paekakariki, New Zealand, as a routine of almost daily forced marches "up the slowly winding dirt road. It twisted in a slow rise for nearly four miles. We called it the Uttle Burma road. From the top, fifteen hundred feet up, we could see the rolling green hills, small farms, and in the distance the ocean."

That ocean claimed the lives of nine Marines when, in a training exercise for landing on Tarawa Atoll, a landing craft grounded on a sandbar and was swamped by a large wave. Scenic Paekakariki was primarily a training grounds during World War II for the 2nd Marine Division, in preparation for joining the 1st Marine Division on Guadalcanal.

Uris, who is noted for Exodus and MILA 18, among other novels, served as an enlisted Marine radio operator in Communications Platoon, 4th Battalion, 6th Regiment. His novel Battle Cry details his experiences, much of them at Paekak. Later it was made into a film starring Aldo Ray, Van Heflin and James Whitmore.

After Guadalcanal, the division returned to "Paekak" for rest and relaxation before their landing at Tarawa.

Paekakariki (the name is Maori and means "the resting place of the parrot") hugs the Kapiti Coast on North Island, 40 kilometers north of Wellington or 55 minutes by electric commuter train service, which runs frequently. Today, much of the Marine base has been converted into Queen Elizabeth Park, with a beach, sand dunes, an equestrian centre and the operating Wellington Tram Museum, with 1 1/2 kilometers of track.

At the still-dangerous junction of New Zealand's Highway One with the New Zealand Railway at McKay's Crossing, the 2nd Marine Division Association erected Memorial Gates, the entrance to the former base. A plaque on the gate reads:

"Half the world distant from their home they came here. This plaque was erected by the New Zealand-American Association to record the

grateful thanks of the people of New Zealand to the U.S. Marines. They camped at this spot from June 1942 to November 1943 while helping to defend this country. Later they fought on the

Pacific islands where many of them made the supreme sacrifice and cemented an everlasting friendship."

The Marine-built water system still operates. Though the government has tried to replace it, the local citizenry has resisted, claiming they have the best drinking water in the area.

Unfortunately, when the Marines departed Paekak in 1943, they buried some of their live ammunition

in the sand dunes. Over the years children have discovered unexploded ammunition. Luckily, one has yet been hurt.

The base was hastily built in early 1942 with roads, streets, paths, a sewage treatment plant and pre- fabricated buildings. On June 14 the 1st Marine Division arrived but stayed only until July 22, when it shipped out to invade Guadalcanal. The invasion on Aug. 7 was the "first step on the road back".

The 2nd Division arrived in New Zealand in September 1942 and settled in at Paekak.

The 6th Marine Regiment moved into Camp McKay, across the tracks and just east of QE Park, which was the 2nd Marine Regiment's Camp Russell. Today, Camp McKay is Whareroa Farm, a sheep, dairy and cattle farm for the selective breeding of Romney sheep, and Simmental and Charolais cattle. The 8th Marine Regiment occupied a nine-hole golf course, which had to be bull-dozed, at the town of Paekakariki. Today the area is a family camp and picnic grounds.

The 6th Regiment left Paekak in December 1942 for Guadalcanal and returned exhausted in February 1943. By the end of October, the rest of the 2nd Marine Division had departed New Zealand for the last time to storm ashore at Tarawa. Today, Tarawa Street swings by the elementary school in Paekak.

A new memorial has been constructed in Queen Elizabeth Park. Behind poles flying the New Zealand and American flags, the end walls of eight World War II huts have been erected. On each are photographs and histories of Marine camps.

(To get to Queen Elizabeth Park, take the train from Wellington to either Paekakariki or Paraparaumu, a nearby town. The park is almost equidistant between the two, a 45- to 60- minute walk from either station, or a cab ride. The walk along the beach from Paekak is an easy one and very scenic.)

KEEPING IN TOUCH - From the N.Z. Backpackers News (see below*)

How often does it happen, you need to be able to let people know where you are, or have a place where information can be left for you.

TelePost International has introduced a new service for backpackers which takes the hassle out of being in touch. The service is a personal voice mail box which you can manage from anywhere in New Zealand.

The benefits vary from letting people know where you are, to a place where you can have information and news left for you. For instance, you can keep an up-to- date greeting which lets family back home know everything is airight. Your mailbox can be your contact point for airlines, travel agents, hostels, or embassies; and other backpackers you meet on your travels. You don't need to have messages following you from one hostel to another, they are only ever a phone call away.

The service is easy to operate - you can join and

You don't need to worry about phonecards or other payphones. You can call anywhere with billing back to your Visa or Mastercard. Rates are from as little as $15(NZ) per month. The service is affordable because people leaving messages pay tor their own calls. to leave messages, callers ring in on (09) 478 9366. They then enter your personal mailbox number, where they he& your personal greeting and then leave a message. For more information dial 0800 789 366 today.

THE EASY WAY TO MIGRATE - Backpackers News

If you have decided to move to New Zealand sooner or later you'll have to submit a formal application to the NZIS. For most people this is the hardest part of the immigration process because they are venturing into the unknown! Why put yourself through the stress, and risk failure because of an incorrect submission?

Kraues Kraues McPherson is a firm of professional immigration consultants with specialist knowledge of the New Zealand and Australian immigration policy and regulation. Their consultants will relieve you of the stress and ensure that your application is absolutely spot

on. They are fully conversant with the entire range of special categories and have personal experience of migrating and therefore understand the concerns and uncertainty you may experience. Tel: 03-351-9090.

SAFE FUN IN THE SUN - Backpackers News

The Cancer Society is warning outdoor enthusiasts to take special care when tramping or enjoying the great Kiwi outdoors this summer. Because of the hole in the ozone layer and our lack of pollution, the ultraviolet light in New Zealand is particularly harsh. It is important that a 15+ spectrum sun screen which meets the Australian/New Zealand standard is applied 20-30 minutes be- fore venturing outdoors.

Sunscreen should be applied thickly and evenly, particularly when tramping. The Cancer Society in Christchurch operates a retail outlet and information centre situated at 7 - 9 New Regent Street.

(*The New Zealand Backpackers News opens the door for visitors to New Zealand! For absolutely no cost or obligation a complimentary copy of the newspaper will be mailed overseas. Contact: NZ BACKPACKER'S NEWS, 50 Somme St., St. Albans, Christchurch NZ).

LETTER BOX

Clive and Beverley Kingsbeer! My last two visits to New Zealand included trying to get in touch with the Kingsbeers. with no luck. Your December 1995 letter, page 7, gave me a bit of joy... I guess it was 1982 when I first was greeted by them. Next time they looked thru their diary for my name and grateful expressions. Later I had two Christmases,

one in New Zealand for a completely fabulous day with the Kingsbeers. I wrote to them, and sent a copy to ITN, copy of which is enclosed.

January 1996 we go to Sydney, Adelaide, Perth (Tasmania en route--out of order here). We will return to NZ also! Last year we did the South Island with an elderly client who loved it, especially R. J. Calder, "PENTRIP' Banks Peninsula, Christchurch. We were referred by a B&B booklet, then rounded the island, and then wanted to revisit "home" before boarding for California. Food, ambience, sheep, of course. I have their picture of five feet of snow in my office (never happens here).

John T. McWhorter, California

I'm writing this as Linda and I are headed back to Aotearoa for our fifth visit. I know I haven't written anything for a while. My only excuse is that I have been very, very busy at work. We had originally planned to visit in February of '95, hut a new job assignment led us to postpone the trip for a year. It was a long, long delay, but now we are on our way! Although I had wanted to send something for the KIWIphile FILE, I never seemed to get the chance. Besides, your last few newsletters have been great and you didn't need one of my articles cluttering up the pages.

It's always great to receive the newsletter, but I read it so fast that after an hour, I regret having to wait another three months. I became so starved for NZ news that I subscribed to NEWZGRAM. Now, every two weeks I get some more information. It is nice to see what's going on, but it can't compare to the K-phile which has personal experiences besides facts.

I've also found several NZ sources on the Internet which have been helpful. Besides instant information, it provides neat things like the latest live picture of the Mt. Ruapehu eruption! Would you believe that right before we left on this trip I was able to get the latest color satellite picture of NZ weather, as well as detailed forecasts for the next two weeks?! In addition, I also receive a newsletter from Brian Harmer(Univ. of Wellington) by E-mail once a week. He reports current news stories (sometimes with witty comment) mainly for NZ ex-patriates around the world. An article on the Internet access for NZ would be of interest to some of your readers, I think. Maybe I'll try to put one together for your September issue.

Mike Giannone, New Jersey

CHOICES - by Mike Giannone

1995 was a tough year. Linda and I had planned to head back to our favorite destination in February, but a new job assignment for me in January blew that idea away like a winter storm through Cook Strait! Of course, '95 was pretty good by Kiwi standards: the AMERICA'S CUP, the Finals of Rugby World Cup, and a rebounding economy pushed Waitangi Day disturbances off the front page. Since we put off the trip for another year,

that gave us months and months more time to plan. Pretty good, huh? Hardly.

As long-time readers to the K-phile can attest, you folks have been putting up with my travel tales for a long time. It is no secret that Linda and I are totally taken by New Zealand, and we consider ourselves very fortunate to be heading back for our fifth visit since 1985. By now, planning should be down to an exact science, but the "trouble" with New Zealand is there are too many places to see, too many good friends, too many wonderful memories, and not enough time to do it all. This is supposed to be a vacation, not an assignment!

We first made a list of what we wanted to see/do/ visit again and those that we felt "once was enough". The "do" list was several dozen items Long; the "once" list had the Moeraki boulders on it. (I can't help it--those pebbles in the surf just don't do anything for me!). OK, this wasn't getting us anywhere, since we weren't planning a trip 6 months long (wouldn't that be nice?)

Next we attempted to rank experiences from top to bottom. That had some success because it was easy to make a choice between shopping on Queen Street in Auckland and heli-hiking on Fox Glacier. Trouble was at the top of the list: with so many possibilities how does one choose among watching the sunset from the deck of your boat off of Urupukapuka Island in the Bay of Islands, hiking up to Lake Marian in the Darran Mts. near Milford Sound, sampling the cuisine at the Dragon Boat Festival on Queens Wharf in Wellington, or listening to the hushed narration of your Maori guide in the splendor of Aranui Cave near Waitomo? Once again, our brains short- circuited.

This was really getting frustrating. As we were struggling to create an itinerary, I thought about the irony of our situation. For years, in answer to the question, "why don't you go to Australia instead?" (from obviously uninformed persons), I usually had replied, "Australia is very nice, but there are great distances between attractions. If you only have a few weeks to spend, you are faced with picking one over another (i.e. outback, Great Barrier Reef, Sydney, Perth,Tasmania, etc.). New Zealand, on the other hand, is very compact. More can be done since the distance and time is not that great, etc., etc., etc."

Now this vast multitude of choices was coming back to haunt us. It was time to start from scratch, trying a different approach. Looking back it was really quite simple. Where haven't we been? East Cape (Gisborne, Napier), Urewera National Park, sailing in Marlborough Sounds. Marlborough dropped out because the particular sound I wanted to explore, Pelorus, had no charter agency for sailboats. There are plenty in Picton, but it would have taken too long to sail around and out Queen Charlotte Sound to get there. East Cape it was.

The end of our trip was also fairly obvious-- Paihia. On our first trip we had made very good friends with members of the Paihia Fire Brigade and eventually my New Jersey Fire company--Pattenburg--was linked. (we both have the same initials, as good a reason as any

to link groups, eh?) Our friends, the Travis's, would have been very upset if we didn't visit and besides, with Marlborough out, once again I would do my sailing in the Bay of Islands.

So, the beginning and ending were settled, and the rest started to fall into place. We have always been impressed with Wellington and can't understand the Kiwi's general ho- hum atrtitude towards their capital. Granted, government bureaucrats put me to sleep, too, but Washington doesn't look anything like this place. A beautiful setting, tons of events and places to go, and a very central transportation hub make the windy city (NZ-style) a place to be. Also, it's on the way from the East Cape/Napier region. Once in Wellington, New Zealand choices finally become an asset.

We have now become comfortable with this magnificent country and have realized that reservations aren't always necessary.

From Wellington, depending on mood, weather, and whim, several side trips are possible. To name a few: fly (1/ 2 hi) over to Nelson, rent a car and explore the Golden Bay area--Collingwood. is a wonderful place nearly at the end of the road; get a car and drive north to Egmont/Mt. Taranaki, passing through the Kapiti Coast and back--a few days at Dawson's Falls Lodge could be well worth it; take the ferry (or fly once again) to Picton and spend a couple of days exploring the area (by road, foot or water').

I'm sure there are other options--just get back to Wellington so you can enter the South Island properly--fly to Christchurch. The South has always been our favorite place and much has been written about it, in this newsletter and other publications. While we started to get anxious about choices again, in the end we decided to repeat most of our first visit: Christchurch (this time investigating Akaroa if possible)--Arthur's Pass--Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers-- Haast Pass--(skipping most of Queenstown this time and concentrating on Wanaka and Mt. Aspiring National Park)-

-TeAnau/Milford. Then back to Queenstown and fly to Whangarei and the North.

I knew this was easy!

(But what about Coromandel and the Crofts, Orakei Korako, Tongariro National Park, the Auckland domain, Mt. Cook, Otago, Stewart Island . .

TELL THEM YOU SAW IT IN

THE KIWIphile FILE !!!

FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) from INTERNET and various sources in NZ

Immigration Stuff, Points System

The following is from a New Zealand Immigration Service pamphlet entitled "Applying for Residence in NZ; Self-Assessment Guide". It should be noted that people in NZ unlawfully are ineligible to apply for residence (except under certain circumstances).

If one has less than the current requirements of 29 points it's very difficult to get a job/grant money.

Migrants can apply for residence under FOUR categories, and need only meet the requrements of ONE category to "qualify" for residence.

The four categories are:

1. General Category (the points system awards points against a number of quality criteria).

2. Business Investment (applicants are assessed on basis of skills, work or business experience, and their ability to transfer NZ$100,000 to NZ).

3. Family (prospective migrants must have a "genuine" relationship to NZ citizen/resident).

4. Humanitarian (people with "exceptionally" difficult circumstances, resolvable only by moving to NZ, providing there's a close family connection).

The New Zealand Qualification Authority is online --their address is @nzqa.govt.nz.

To succeed here, score more than 20 points. This category is based on employability, age and "settlement factors". Applicants must be proficient in English. (20 pts is actually the "fail" mark; the government sets a higher pass mark, but applications which fall between the pass and fail marks are placed into a pool. The highest scoring applications in this pool are periodically drawn out...bingo, they're in!).

Crime

Yes, we have crime. While it may be "safe" compared to most other countries, serious crime does exist here and visitors should take sensible precautions. Always lock your vehicle, and don't leave it in isolated locations for extended periods. Avoid leaving valuables visible in the car. Avoid areas/situations which appear unwholesome. The emergency phone number (police, ambulance, fire) is 111, and ask the operator for the service required (this can be used from payphones without paying).

Religions

A Massey Univ. research project reveals that 28 percent of Kiwis pray, at frequencies varying between several times a day to weekly. About 21% of the population are regular churchgoers. The radio report on the topic said that over 60% of NZers believe in a God.

1991 CENSUS:

In 1986 "No Religion" got 16.7%, so this is growing fast, and is the second Largest group. (It was less than 1% in the 1950s).

WINERY UNIQUE IN NZ

A few kilometres west of Geraldine on the South Island's State Highway 79, by Speechleys Bridge, travellers will encounter a large sigii inviting them to visit Barker's Winery on Te Moana Road.

The winery, which recently won a Regional

Tourism Award, is unique in New Zealand, because all the wine is made from fruit other than grape.

Growing from a hobby, the winery first produced 5500 litres of traditional elderberry wine in 1969 and since then has expanded production into wine from black currant, apricot, kiwi fruit, apple, and strawberry.

Today, Barker's winery is famous not only for fruit wines, but for liqueurs, fortified wines resembling port or sherry, and a Gluhwien known as Mountain Thunder which is much appreciated as apres ski drink.

The winery is now visited by thousands of people every year, who enjoy a tasting experience not only of wine, but of a fine selection of new fruit sauces and relishes.

One of Barker's most famous products is its Tru-Fruit natural black currant juice which may be diluted with water and enjoyed hot or cold.

Visitors can also choose from a range of freshly prepared savoury filled rolls, croissants, delicious fruit tartlets, flan or Danish pastries, among other gourmet delicacies.

HAURAKI GULF - Sue Weston

One of the best half-day trips in Auckland takes you to the top of an island volcano. A 60-minute walk from the ferry landing passes through native forest on its way to the summit of Rangitoto Island and sweeping views over Auckland city, the Waitemata Harbour and Hauraki Gulf.

Dozens of islands stud the Gulf, a 150 mile sweep of coastline stretching north and south of Auckland. Forty seven islands and one mainland reserve are protected in the Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park.

Sandy beaches, secluded inlets, island volcanoes, wildlife reserves, and great cruising and sailing are some of the experiences found within the park and the gulf.

Islands range from Waiheke, with its swimming beaches, vineyards and art center, to remote Little Barrier Island, a wildlife reserve of international significance.

Access to islands is by modern and historic cruise vessels and ferries, private and chartered yachts, and by sea-kayak and windsurfer. A number of companies offer both day trips and overnight island travel packages which include water and land transport, accommodation and sightseeing.

Rangitoto Island

Around 600 years ago Rangitoto turned on some really spectacular fireworks. The island is the largest of Auckland's 50 volcanoes, and erupted one-third of all the volcanic material ejected around the Auckland isthmus.

Rangitoto's curiously circular and symmetrical shape is the result of its central vents which allowed molten lava to flow freely in all directions out into the Waitemata Harbour and Hauraki Gulf.

Despite the seemingly inhospitable knobbly, sharp scoria surface, the island is cloaked with profuse plant life which has adapted to the challenging conditions over several hundred years.

Pohutukawa—known as the New Zealand Christmas tree because of its brilliant red flowers in early summer--is dominant, with a variety of other plants including northern rata present. Animals introduced to the island last century are being gradually removed because of the threat they pose to native plants.

Rangitoto is an easy day trip from Auckland. Ferries depart from downtown and the island several times daily and more frequently on the weekends, allowing a summit and return trip or a longer expedition.

The summit track takes around an hour to walk. No accommodation is available on Rangitoto, but a basic camping site is located on the Motutapu Island which is connected to Rangitoto by a walkway. Motutapu, a 3750 acre farm park, is one of the richest archaeological sites in Auckland, with over 400 recorded Maori sites.

Waiheke Island

Waiheke is the Hauraki Gulf's most populated island, with a permanent population of 5000. The island is only a 35 minute ferry ride from downtown Auckland, and is popular with commuters, alternative lifestylers and visitors.

Wine is increasingly Waiheke's claim to fame. Vineyards make the most of a long dry summer, high sunshine hours, well drained soils and a low rainfall which add up to a growing environment very like Bordeaux in France.

Island wine tours visit Stoneyridge Vineyard, where guests can walk in the vineyard, enjoy a wine tasting, and discover why a Stoneyridge vintage has been named amongst the top 20 cabernets in the world.

Those who prefer to get off the beaten track can take a mini-bus tour of Waiheke, from the inhabited western end of the island to the secluded bays, rolling farmland and walkways of the eastern tip. Horse-riding tours are also available, as are self-drive trips by rental car, jeep, motorbike, scooter or mountain bike. Waiheke is well supplied with backpacker hostel, motel and chalet-style accommodation, and has shops and restaurants. The new Artworks Centre exhibits and sells pottery, crafts and art, and features entertainment, theatre and a cafe.

Tiritiri Matangi

Tiritiri Matangi Island is New Zealand's first open bird sanctuary. Here visitors can get very close to a number of rare species which thrive in their protected state. The whirr and flash of wings, and rich songs are a testament to conservation in action.

For many years the island was grazed as a farm, but in the early 1980's a major program to develop Tiritiri as a sanctuary for rare native species began.

Over 200,000 native trees and shrubs grown in the island's nursery have been planted out by volunteers to provide food and shelter for birds released on Tiritiri.

Walking tracks ranging from 10 minutes up to three hours thread the island, and lead walkers to uncrowded sandy beaches for good swimming.

The island is reached by nature cruises run by several operators, but there is no regular ferry service and no accommodation on the island. Visitors interested in a trip to Tiritiri should inquire at the Auckland Visitor Centre for excursion times.

Kawau Island

Kawau Island has an unusuaL history. Sir George Grey, an early Governor of New Zealand, bought the is- land in 1862, and set about turning it into his own Garden of Eden. He transformed an existing homestead into a grand mansion, and went to work creating lush gardens with an equally exotic animal kingdom.

In the extensive gardens he planted Brazilian palms, olives from the Mediterranean and English oaks. He introduced zebra, monkeys, antelope, wallabies and birds from around the world. A large reserve consisting of Mansion House and much of the gardens is now managed by the Department of Conservation, as are several other reserves on the island. One of these protects the ruins of a copper smelting house built in the 1840's to turn copper ore mined on the island into ingots.

Great beaches, forest walks, tours of the restored Mansion House and plenty of space for picnics and strolls amongst the gardens and animals make Kawau Island a relaxed day-trip destination from Auckland. It's also a good place in the summer months to watch the dozens of expensive yachts and launches which overnight in Mansion House Bay on northbound trips.

Access to Kawau Island is by car to Sandspit near Warkworth (about a 60 minute drive), and then a short ferry ride.

Great Barrier

On a clear day Great Barrier Island is clearly visible from Auckland city. Its rugged mountain spine stands out clearly on the horizon off the tip of the Coromandel Peninsula, some 12 miles from downtown Auckland.

Known to Aucklanders as "The Barrier", the island is the fourth largest New Zealand island--after the South Island, North Island, and Stewart Island. More than 30 smaller islands cluster around its shores.

A varied history including coppermining, gold, silver and gum digging, timber milling and shipbuilding have over the last century been replaced by farming, fishing, and a small tourism industry. The Barriers permanent population is tiny--just 1200 people--many of whom pursue alternative lifestyles, far removed from the pace of city life.

Much of the island is held in reserve and offers some excellent walking and tramping tracks. One route climbs to the highest point on the island, and also visits a hot spring, and the remains of kauri dams and an old gold stamper.

Travel packages to Great Barrier include transport (by boat or aeroplane), sightseeing and accommodation. Access by boat is aboard modern cruise ferries and takes under two hours each way from Auckland city.

Sightseeing on the island is by bus, mountain bike, foot, or scenic flight. Sea-kayak hire opens up the fiord-like character of Tryphena Harbour, while fishing charters explore coastal waters. Accommodation comprises campgrounds and backpacker lodges to motels and lodges.

Full information on enjoying the Hauraki Gulf can be found at the Auckland Visitor Centre, Aotea Square, Queen Street, Auckland, Ph: 09 366 888, and at cruise offices in downtown Auckland. The Department of Conservation (DCC), which administers many of the gulf islands, can provide more detailed natural history information.

PIM DODGE. TOUR HOST

pim Dodge is a tour host for Educational Opportunities, Inc. of Lakeland, Florida, a travel-study company. She is also a lecturer and travel writer. pim takes groups of travelers to many countries, and last October took a group to Australia and New Zealand. Her next down under trip is scheduled for late October 1997 (when all the flowers are in bloom). If you're interested, let pim know and you'll be on her mailing list. There are 10 people in a group. Contact pim Dodge, 616-352-6013. P.O. Box 769, Frankfort, MI 49635.

pim Dodge says, "I have been offered jobs with MANY other travel companies, but I truly and sincerely believe that Educational Opportunities offers the very most for the very least. The hotels, meals, busses, guides, drivers and tours are the very best and they offer wonderful lectures so that you not only SEE a place, but know all about it AND continuing education credits ARE available after the tour, upon application to EO."

According to Zella Johnson, St. Patrick Church, Traverse City MI, "The two trips I have made with pim made me appreciate her positive attitude and knowledge of the areas visited, as well as her generosity in sharing with fellow travellers. 1 feet most fortunate that pim was my tour host on these trips. Other companies lack the 'extras' that pim and EO give . .

The following is from pim's newsletter for Oct.- Nov. 1995: "Wanted to explain a bit about the home stay in Australia and New Zealand. This is part of your trip and included in the price....

"The bus takes us to a central location where the homeowners have gathered to meet all of us. Four to six people are assigned to one home, usually out in the country where they are raising sheep or cattle and the scenery is breathtaking. On my last trip there, my group of four was with a darling couple in a beautiful home. They lease out their land and do not farm it but did take us around to see working farms that evening. We also were taken to see a kiwi cage. Kiwis are nocturnal and are now protected so once caught, they are kept in these enormous kiwi cages in almost every village.

"You will stay with your hosts all of that day, that evening, and then the next day will meet up once more with your own group to continue on your bus journey.

"The home stay is extremely popular and something fairly new in tourism, in many countries. You get to meet some of the local people, you are served the local fare and it is a wonderful way for these folks to make some extra spending money for themselves. The homes are all government inspected and licensed and most of them are very large and very lovely."

Packing List for New Zealand and Australia

DO TAKE THE FOLLOWING:

* A good pair of walking shoes with cushioned soles. You will be walking on stones, forest paths and glaciers.

*Clothes to layer...the weather can change in a matter of minutes.

* Clothes with elastic waistbands that can expand with you. All that great cream, butter, etc.! Just resign yourself to the fact that you will gain weight!!

WE FOUND THAT THERE WAS NO NEED FOR THE FOLLOWING:

*A travel iron--the hotels all have laundry services for the guests and almost all of them washers and dryers, many at no charge.

* Toilet seat covers. These had to be the cleanest and most numerous public toilets in the world. Paper towels and electric dryers always were available.

*Candy bars and snacks. The ice cream is exceptional in both countries - be sure to try some.

(Dorothy Sperling, Oregon)

And, finally from pim's newsletter:

Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateaturipu kakapikimaungahoronukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu, a hill in the Southern Hawke's Bay district of North Island, New Zealand. Maori for "the place where Tamatea, the man with big knees who slid, climbed, and swallowed mountains, known as landeater, played his flute to his loved one."

NEWZGRAM - The News Aerogramme of New Zealand

(Newzgram is a four page news aerogramme produced twice a month for Kiwis living abroad [and those of us who live elsewhere but love NZ]. For more information or a free sample, write to Newzgram, P0 Box 3882, Christchurch NZ, Ph. 0-3-377 1335. Fax 0-3-377 1248.)

COUNTRY PARTNERSHIPS - from Newzgram

North Canterbury couple Henk and Joy van Lier have set up a dating service for people living in rural New Zealand. Henk says country folk have fewer opportunities than city people to meet potential partners: "We don't have the same socials and dances we used to have." The couple, who met through a Christchurch introductory agency, have received hundreds of inquiries for their Country Contacts service. Those interested include several American widows "from ranching backgrounds" who want to "end up with New Zealand men." All indicated that they were happy to live in isolated parts of the country.

From Newzgram: Golden Bay gardener Peter Persson is using old bras to support his crop of tomatoes. He told Newzgram that the bras stop the weight of the tomatoes breaking the trusses of his vines. He has also discovered that by changing tomatoes from white to black bras at the right time, he can ripen his tomatoes up to 15 days faster than other growers.

From Newzgram: New Zealand's organic food producers are joining forces in a bid to gain a greater share of the growing international trade in organic products. The country's clean, green image and isolation from potential contamination are seen as significant marketing advantages. New Zealand's organic exports include fruit and vegetables, fresh crops, wine and honey.

From Newzgram: New Zealand's prison population is larger on a per capita basis than that of Australia, Canada and most of Europe, but far lower than the United States and South Africa. The latest Ministry of Justice figures show that New Zealand's incarceration rate is 135 per 100,000 population, compared to 91 in Australia and 519 in the U.S.

From Newzgram:

Items from Auckland Museum's

Maori collection can now be viewed on the Internet, thanks to the work of visiting American Fulbright scholar Sandra Susino. She created the Auckland WebMuseum. which offers images of wood and stone carving, maori weaving and platting, and video clips of Maori song and dance.

From Newzgram: A quiet fishing trip in Tauranga Harbour turned into a nightmare for a Tokoroa couple and their 2-year-old son when a 3m shark jumped into their 4.6m boat. After some anxious moments, the shark's head became trapped under the boat's transom, and the couple were able to row ashore. The shark was eventually released--after being photographed--and swam back out to sea.

QUALITY OF LIFE INDEX - International Living

Here are the top eleven in International Living's 1996 Quality of Life Index: Liechtenstein, United States, San Marina, Canada, Finland, Germany, Australia, New Zealand, Switzerland, Spain, and Norway.

In addition, both the US and NZ scored a perfect 100 in the "World's most free" index. Also both countries scored high in the indexes of "World's best infrastructure" and "World's most cultural." Neither country scored high in "World's best ecology" or "World's healthiest".

(Write to International Living, 105 W. Monument St. Baltimore MD 21201.)

READERS - Please send in articles and letters for the next issue. I need them by May 1st. Thank you.