Volume IX, No. 3

MARCH 1997

CYCLING NEW ZEALAND'S

QUIET SCENIC SOUTH - By Judith Doyle

Stunning scenery, very little road traffic, and landscapes that change dramatically in a short space of time: New Zealand's South Island is made for cycle touring.

The landscapes on my 15-day Southern Alps tour included wide, flat plains; three mountain passes; two Alpine glaciers; untouched rainforests; many waterfalls; two spectacular river gorges; canals; sheep, cattle and deer farms; 11 lakes, and I lost count of the rivers.

Some of New Zealand's South Island is mountainous, though, and that was the main reason I chose a guided cycling tour. It meant there were two "sag wagons" so that when I sagged after one too many hills, a van was on hand. The sag wagon was not the only advantage a guided cycle tour had over an independent one. All our baggage was carried for us and awaited us in our hotel room when we arrived--usually hot, tired and longing for a shower.

Sometimes we met independent cyclists with heavy panniers either side, a bulging carrier bag behind the cycle seat and another on the handlebars. No thanks, I was puffing enough up those hills carrying only a camera, a map, a water bottle and a couple of apples!

Other reasons, too. The cycle could be hired from the company so you didn't nave to bring your own or make a snap decision on hiring in a new country. Only one cyclist of our 16-strong group brought her cycle with her. Helmets are compulsory in New Zealand now and they are provided. Maintenance en route was entirely the responsibility of the two guides who could also experiment with different cycle parts. One American had his handlebars changed to a style he found more comfortable. Although I had a gel seat, it became uncomfortable after several days. The replacement seemed to fit my anatomy better.

Everyone cycled at their own pace, following itineraries supplied of the day's route. Interesting features and hazards (usually in the form of steep hills) were marked, plus the location of our lunch stop.

Some stopped to take frequent photos. Others explored the odd detour. A few put their heads down and went for it. Either way, it was great to arrive at the lunch spot and find salads, a pasta dish, fruit yoghurt, tea/coffee, cold drinks and a selection of fruit, all laid out beside a lake, on a river bank or in a leafy town park.

The advance van went ahead to fix lunch or deliver luggage to the accommodation, checking on cyclists as it went.

(Thumbs up - OK. Thumbs down - Help!). The "sweeper" brought up the rear, seeing to any problems; stopping at the side of the road with more liquid; or picking up a cyclist if requested.

The clear roads and the sense of space were astonishing. Wire fences, not walls, and no high banks bordering the roads, mean unobstructed views. You seem to see forever. Unpolluted air sharpens the outlines of mountains and hills, too. Photographic country all right.

It's a marvellous pace in which to savour the beauty of the landscape. It also gives the chance to stop and talk to a farmer driving his sheep along the road or mending a fence by the roadside. One farmer gave two cyclists a tour his farm and homestead.

Not that we would meet many people on the roads. Nearing the popular tourist centres, like Queenstown, there would be more vehicle traffic but generally it was scarce.

After all, less than a million people live in the South Island which is more than half the area of the entire British Isles. And our tour was a long loop through country that is underpopulated, even by New Zealand standards.

The tour started by crossing the Southern Alps-- "vanning" up and cycling, at terrifying speed, down the other side. On the West Coast, the prevailing wind, sweeping in from all that ocean, drops its moisture. The result is lakes, lagoons, rivers, creeks, waterfalls and frequent rain--plus two magnificent glaciers that glide down towards the rainforest.

The route then continues through the long green tunnel of rainforests and via the Haast Pass, to Lake Wanaka and another sudden change of landscape. For Central Otago, on the other side of the Alps, is dry.

After Wanaka's glittering lake and golden- brown hills, we met the dramatic Kawarau Gorge where goidminers eked a living last century from its frothing waters. Now the main attraction is the madcap bungy- jumping from the Kawarau Bridge.

Our next stopover was Arrowtown--an engaging ex-goldmining town. Its mellow stone buildings and weatherboard cottages were draped with trees, dropping their autumn leaves like the gold the miners coveted.

Only another half-day's cycle away was the tourist town of Queenstown. There's jetboating on the Shotover; parasailing; flightseeing to Milford Sound; whitewater rafting and jetboating into wilderness country. We wound up our two days with a cruise on the vintage steamer to an island sheep station for dinner.

Soon we were cycling through golden tussock country heading up the Lindis Pass--at 971 metres the highest highway in the country--and an incredible freewbeef cycle down from the other side. Spectacular country, but nothing compared to the majesty we cycled into the next day: milky-green glacial waters of curving Lake Pukaki and snow-capped mountains piercing a blue sky. Lunch was at a picnic site on the edge of the lake with the mountain panorama around us--the Alpine landscape and the mountain air acting like a tonic on tired muscles. Mt. Cook itself--New Zealand's highest mountain--was posing for photos outside the window of our hotel bedroom that evening. So were cheeky Keas (mountain parrots) that perched on our balcony.

Our plan to cycle beside the canals next morning was defeated by rain hosing down. These canals bisect the McKenzie Country, built to link the different lakes into the country's largest hydroelectric scheme. But by the time we arrived at Lake Tekapo, another glacial lake, the sun had emerged again, for us to photograph the lovely little lakeside church and the famous sheepdog statue which honours the sheepdogs that are vital to this region. It remembers the faithful sheepdog of McKenzie, 19th century sheep-stealer, romanticised in song and legend. The regjon is named after him.

It's a 43 km cycle from Lake Tekapo to Fairlie where we stayed with a farming family. Then we cycled through more farmlands to Geraldine on the Canterbury Plains towards the end of our cycle trip.

The roads we had cycled over were sealed with good surfaces, except for the loose shingle of Haast Pass which someone likened to cycling on marbles. Most country roads have loose gravel at the edges of the seal also which can put you off balance if you swerve into it.

Don't neglect sunblock. The lack of pollution and the presence of a cooling wind multiply the effect of the sun.

Accommodation is at lodges, good quality motor inns or hotels, plus a farmstay.

Food was excellent: cooked breakfasts; energy- conscious lunches; plenty of snacks/fruit en route and first-class dinners at night.

Three over-riding impressions: the excitement of constantly changing landscapes, the lack of traffic and the informal friendliness of people we met. My only regret was that I hadn't cycled harder in preparation. My body would have thanked me for it!

We cycled an average distance of 66 kms daily. This was about average for the different tours. Pedaltours do eight different tours, two of them off-road on mountain bikes. Their tours range from eight days for about NZ$1570 to our 15-day Southern Alps tour at NZ$3324, or the 19-day Grand Tour at NZ$4200. Hiring cycles adds a further NZ$125 to NZ$260 to this cost.

New Zealand Pedal Tours Ltd

PO Box 37-575

Parnell

Auckland NZ

Ph: 64 9 3020968

Fax: 64 9 3020967

For more information on cycling options in New

Zealand contact New Zealand Tourism Board, 501

Santa Monica Blvd., Suite #300, Santa Monica CA 90401.

Ph (310) 395-7480 OR (800) 388-5494.

ASHFORD CRAFT VILLAGE

"The tourist", says the dictionary, "is a holiday traveller on a pleasure journey." You will find at the Ashford Craft Village in Ashburton something pleasurable for all. The historic Mill House, the world-famous Ashford spinning wheel factory and eight different craft and art businesses are clustered around a village green and provide a wonderful experience for all visitors.

Gracious, historic Mill House has a wonderful range of handspun garments, craft materials, spinning and weaving equipment. After learning how to spin and weave, view the spinning wheel museum of antique and contemporary wheels from around the world.

The Cafe specialises in delicious homestyle baking.

Eastside Gallery has a wonderful selection of quality art and handmade crafts including paintings, pottery, patchwork, clothing, dried flowers, china painting and jewellery.

Steve James is a well-known New Zealand potter and he throws and fires his beautiful pottery in his village studio.

Times Past is an entrancing shop offering a selection of antiques and collectables.

Award-winning John Lister turns beautiful native and exotic timbers into quality gifts and souvenirs of New Zealand.

Situated on the main highway from Christchurch

to Mt. Cook, Queenstown and Dunedin and just one hour's drive south of Christchurch, the Ashford Craft Village is open seven days a week. The address is 429 West Street, Ashburton.

HIKING ADVENTURE by James A. White. Omaha, Nebraska

I have just returned from a remarkable hiking adventure in New Zealand.

In the month of November, for 18 days, I toured the South Island with New Zealand Travelers, Shelburne, Vermont (1-800-362-2718).

I wanted to revisit New Zealand without a tour bus. I got just that. This was my third trip to NZ. Without question, it was the best.

Our group of 8 backpackers and 16 dayhikers, circled me South isiand in three 8-passenger Toyota mini-vans. Being a dayhiker allowed me to experience a variety of scenery. Glaciers, cliffsides, rainforests, golden beaches and rolling meadows were typical. We hiked in several national parks. They were Mt. Aspiring, Mt. Cook and the Marlborough Sounds Maritime Park. There were two free days, in Nelson and Queenstown. Reasonable physical condition is required.

We stayed in various accommodations. They included standard motels, holiday motor camps, a farm, a private home, a backpackers' lodge and even a shearers' quarters on a high country sheep station. Three meals were provided daily.

We stayed in Hanmer Springs, Kaikoura, Pelorous. Nelson, Hokitika, Haast, Wanaka and Arrowtown (avoiding much too busy Queenstown). The shearers' quarters were outside Twizel at the foot of Mt. Cook (my personal favorite).

Unfortunately we ran into quite a bit of rain and cloudy days. That was highly unusual.

The tour provided four leaders. They were resident New Zealanders who cooked, guided the walks and drove the mini-vans. The tour started and ended in Christchurch. We rarely encountered any other hikers.

I highly recommend this tour. The tour only has one negative that requires adjustment. Do not expect much privacy. Even though the tour is based on double occupancy or a guaranteed share, many facilities are set up for two couples sharing a unit. But because our group bonded so well, there was never a problem.

LETTER FROM ALAN RIEGELMAN, NEW ZEALAND TRAVELERS

This year, as has been true for many years now, my life has been strongly focused on NEW ZEALAND TRAVELERS and earning a living in a difficult economy. NZ is enjoying a booming economy, but the NZ dollar has risen very sharply in a short time, thusly reducing the number of $ NZD we receive when we exchange the

American $ USD we take in from customers. It has really hurt, but while we will survive this "non-profit" tourism season, other sectors of our economy are hurting badly with the high S NZD and many big farms and other export businesses are going to fail.

We are cutting two more days out of our tours to reduce costs and expect to return to normal profitability next season. Our number of customers this season will no doubt set a new record for NZT (100 +) and this good volume, plus cost-cutting measures taken a year ago will keep us out of serious trouble in what is a very poor season for other tourism businesses, where overseas tourists are staying away because of the very poor exchange rate. SO IT GOES.

Living in New Zealand continues to be a wonderful experience and I now have spent ten years turning Tealcot into a very beautiful, small haven-by-the-river, where I always return with thanks and gratitude (or such a place-of-deep-calm in a tumultuous world. Some of the first rhododendrons I planted are now 15' tall and have hundreds of blossoms. Most of the growth is now fully mature and next year I shall have to do some serious and judicious heavy pruning.

My work brings me into contact with many New Zealanders and I have been blessed with many lovely new friendships each year that are beautiful ornaments to an interesting and ultra-busy life.

Alan Riegelman, Tealcot, Nelson NZ

QUARTER-ACRE GONE WEST- from NZ Listener

In 1974, Austin Mitchell, academic and TV current affairs presenter, wrote a book on New Zealand - The Half-Gallon Quarter-Acre Pavlova Paradise He's been a Labour MP for Great Grimsby in his native Britain since '83, but, in the foreword to a new book - The Cross- Leased Chardonnay Cellphone Paradise, by John Ruck, Mitchell revisits his former utopia.

He notes that the quarter-acre went west, the country's former "balance of population destroyed by the sprawl of Auckland, a city far too big for a small country", its urban dwellers "cuelly crammed" into eighth of an acre sections.

Yet not all is lost in the former paradise--"She'll still be right, though a little less so" and New Zealand is "certainly a hell of a lot more lively than she was".

NEW ANTARCTIC HERCULES - sent in by Gary Ramsey

The newest LC-130 to fly to Antarctica was christened in Christchurch, NZ, on December 2. In honor of the US Antarctic Program's host city, the aircraft was named "City of Christchurch."

The newly manufactured Hercules aircraft was flown to Christchurch by the 109th Mobility Air Wing of the New York Air National Guard

The christening ceremony took place on the ramp in front of the Navy's Antarctic hangar. Before the ceremony the aircraft was open for tours, and a reception followed in the hangar.

U.S. Naval support force Antarctica provides logistic support to the U.S. Antarctic program operated by the National Science Foundation's Office of Polar Programs.

NEW ZEALAND TOURISM BOARD

LAUNCHES WEB SITE - Travelers Can Now Explore

New Zealand or Plan Travel Itineraries On-Line

Keeping pace with consumer interest in on-line services and information, the New Zealand Tourism Board (NZTB) has announced the launch of the Passport to New Zealand web site. Travelers can access the site at http://www.nztb.govt.nz.

Passport to New Zealand provides an introduction to everything anyone ever wanted to know about New Zealand and more. The site features the most up-to-date news about the destination including suggested itineraries, details on visa and immigration requirements, information on accommodations, activities and attractions, regional facts as well as an overview of NZTB services and contact information.

The incredible growth of the Internet worldwide has made it a useful tool in the New Zealand Tourism Board's overall marketing strategy," says Kathy Ward. regional vice president--the Americas. "We anticipate that the Passport to New Zealand web site will effectively promote and position New Zealand as well as present a wide range of travel-related products and services."

Check out the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) section that provides answers to some of the most common questions about New Zealand, including climate, weather, currency, tipping and time zones. Hot links to additional NZ tourism and travel-related sites can also be accessed directly from the NZTB site. Links include the New Zealand Tourism Database, featuring a list of products and services; Lonely Planet, featuring tour and travel information based on the popular travel guide series; and One New Zealand, a comprehensive listing of different regions around New Zealand. In the coming months, NZTB plans to add a Hot Deals section that will highlight unique and affordable vacations from some of New Zealand's top travel providers.

The Wellington-based Promotus Advertising and Netlink, which developed the Passport to New Zeal- and web site in conjunction with NZTB, will maintain the site.

For information please contact the New Zealand Tourism Board at (800) 388-5494 or visit the Passport to New Zealand web site at http://www.nztb.govt.nz.

'BETTER THAN SEX' ICE CREAM EXPORT BOUND - NZ Herald

Believing that less is more and quality is all has enabled Cathryn Spicer of Whangarei to successfully take on multi-national ice cream companies with a range of premium alcohol-flavoured ice cream desserts and cakes.

The range of desserts was born out of necessity, she says. She was a single parent with a mortgage and three young children, and culinary inventiveness.

Her philosophy was to make the best ice cream in the world using only fresh, natural and chemical-free ingredients.

To begin with, she took a tried and true recipe and embellished it with rum.

Early market research involved her children selling non-alcoholic versions on the beach last summer with strong success.

A customer said the product was better than sex, a phrase now emblazoned on the pottles in which the dessert is sold.

Cathryn Spicer began by successfully marketing the handmade desserts to restaurants in Whangarei and Auckland.

During that campaign she was asked by one trendy eatery to develop a beetroot ice cream.

"I'd consider having a go at most flavours but I drew the line at beetroot."

Because she had no money for advertising, the desserts were promoted to supermarkets through product demonstrations.

After four months 150 supermarkets nationwide now stock the desserts and cakes, which are sold at the very top end of the pricing structure.

Following her local success, which has seen her company have to move twice to bigger premises in the past year, she is working with Tradenz to develop an export business, probably in Asia.

Cathryn Spicer said the alcohol in her products was there as flavouring and a softening agent, and was not enough to get people drunk.

Unlike other manufacturers who used alcohol essences, Spicer uses actual alcohol beverages such as rum, Sambucca, creme de menthe and Baileys in its product range.

TOURISTS GET A BALD TASTE - Hauraki Herald

Tourists visiting New Zealand have been sampling a fruit unknown to the rest of the country's consumers--a new hairless variety of kiwifruit.

The variety, one of three being trialed under contract arrangements with New Zealand orchardists, is the front runner by a long way for commercial development.

With golden flesh, it's sweeter than conventional kiwifruit, its skin is only slightly tougher than that of a pear and can be eaten without cutting or peeling.

Early Gold is milder than the Hayward and marketers say they hope its sweetness will appeal to the Asian market.

Horticulture Research Institute scientists call it Early Gold. Its owners, the Kiwifruit Marketing Board, know it as a long series of numbers.

US ANGLER CATCHES HUGE TROUT

--NZ Herald

An American angler visiting Turangi released an 8kg (17th 10oz) trout he caught at Lake Otamangakau as soon as photographs and measurements had been taken.

Fly-fishing from a boat, Mr. Barry Rapozo of San Francisco, reeled in the 86.3cm (34 in.) long rainbow hen on Sunday, midway through a six-day stay which netted him and his wife Rozanne dozens of good-sized trout.

All, including many over 4kg, were released.

"He was very happy to put it back," said a Tongariro Lodge fishing guide, Mr. Mike Chapman, who was with Mr. Rapozo when the American struck his biggest catch in more than 30 years of fishing.

"He didn't even think about keeping it."

A skilled angler, Mr. Rapozo slipped the huge trout back into the lake without a second glance.

"Then he started to shake and said something unprintable," Mr. Chapman said.

The widely travelled Rapozos, on their first trip to New Zealand, are now in the South Island for a week's fishing. When they return home, they will have a fi- breglass replica made, using the measurements and photos of the whopper trout.

Department of Conservation records show it was the biggest recorded rainbow caught in the Lake Taupo region for 10 years.

A DoC fishery manager, Mr. John Gibbs, praised Mr. Rapozo's catch-and-release policy--something which more New Zealanders were adopting.

PICTON, SOUTH ISLAND - Gordon Mann

Most people who come into Picton on the ferry don't pause to visit the town or surrounding area. They pick up a rental car, hop on a bus or board a train, and head south to Christchurch or west to Nelson. I suggest otherwise.

During November and December 1996 1 spent a total of seven nights in Picton and enjoyed it immensely. A major reason for this was my stay at The Gables, a home-stay operated by Ann and Dick Smith. They are wonderful hosts who spare no effort in making one feel at home. They provide fine accommodations, a wonderful breakfast, lots of help in arranging things to do and expect on South Island travel.

While in town visit the two information centres: Picton Visitor Information Centre and the Department of Conservation Centre across the street from each other near the ferry terminal.

Spend time in the Picton Museum, see the restoration of the old East Indiaman, the Edwin Fox, the railway station, and the Scow Echo. Sit in the park on the Picton foreshore, watch the ferries come and go and the bustle of fishing and pleasure boats.

There is a very pleasant drive to Waikawa with its marae, marina and Maori canoe. Continue on to the summit for a spectacular view of Port Underwood. Another worthwhile trip by road is along Queen Charlotte Drive to Havelock and Pelorous Bridge. You might want to take a walk on the gentle circle track.

You can explore Queen Charlotte Sound by water taxi or cruise boat. One trip I like is to Motuara Island, a bird sanctuary, and then to Ship Cove where Captain Cook had a base on his various voyages of exploration.

For those who like to hike, the Queen Charlotte walkway provides 67 kms of well maintained track. Small sections can be done on day trips using a water taxi for dropoff and pickup. You can also spend a number of days backpacking, using Department of Conservation campgrounds, and do the whole track. A third way to enjoy this walk or parts of it is to make use of various lodges or resorts on or near the track for overnight stays. Water taxis will transfer luggage from one place of accommodation to the next, so it is possible to do the walk with just a day pack.

If you include a stop for several days in Picton, you will be happy you did.

For information on Picton contact: Picton Visitor Information Centre, Box 163, Picton, NZ. Phone 03 573-7477. Fax 03 573-8362. Department of Conservation, Picton Field Centre, Picton, NZ. Phone 03 573-7582. Fax 03

573-8362.

SPRING VISIT TO NEW ZEALAND

November 1-22, 1997

Featuring the Taranaki Rhododendron Festival and the Canterbury Agricultural and Pastoral Show.

Join Dean Baker and Gordon Mann, as Gordon returns to New Zealand for the seventh time. We will attempt to show you how New Zealanders live and work by staying in private homes, in small bed & breakfast inns and family run motels. Also, visits to farms and private gardens during the Taranaki Rhododendron Festival will help. The Canterbury A & P (Agricultural and Pastoral) Show, and the Maori Cultural Center in Rotorua will also assist you to get to know the real New Zealand. In addition, we will get to see well known scenic attractions of the country.

A maximum of twelve participants will travel in vans or a minibus with a Kiwi (New Zealander) driver. We will not have our own vehicles for the first two days in Auckland or two days in Christchurch. We will use taxis and local tour operators.

As there will be some walking involved, those who don't care to walk may elect to stay in the vehicle.

The itinerary covers Auckland, Te Awamutu (rose garden), Rotorua, Taupo, New Plymouth (Taranaki Rhododendron Festival), Wellington, ferry to Picton on the South Island. On to Christchurch, to Mt. Cook and Twizel. On to Omarama, Cromwell, Arrowtown, then to Josephville for a 2-night stay on a farm. Drive to TeAnau and Milford Sound. To Queenstown, Wanaka, Fox Glacier, Hokitika, and back to Christchurch for return flight to Auckland and on home. Gordon is willing to go to NZ earlier to escort people to the Bay of Islands or to stay after Nov. 22 for those who wish to stay longer on the South Island.

For detailed information contact: Dean Baker or Gordon Mann at Gayle Baker's Valley Travel, 44 Main St., P0 Box 1060, Conway, NH 03818-1060. Ph. 603-447-8860 or 800-288-8860. E-mail jag@ncia.net Gordon's group of six in November 1996 enjoyed New Zealand very much.

Had a nice evening cruise, beautiful sunset, lovely dinner, and a nice trip back. We stayed at the Garden Court Motor Lodge, right on the street, quite noisy and very small. There are several new motels being built in Queenstown. I guess the best way to get a nice one here is to have local recommendations. We found out that if you don't have a motel reservation ahead of time, or get to one early in the PM you will have a problem. We were told that Queenstown is becoming overrun with tourists, and I believe it. We saw many bus loads here, the most of any place in NZ.

Queenstown to Franz Josef - This was a LONG DAY! We got really tired of driving on this leg of our trip though it was a very scenic experience. We arrived in Arrowtown at 8:15 and it was just waking up. If you would move here you wouldn't want to leave. I would recommend it if you could. They have a wonderful museum here, all about the local gold mining era, and history of the area. Wonderful stop even if it did make our trip 2 hours longer. Then through Cardona, another nice retirement town--there is no end of them on the South Island. At Wanaka there is an excellent Air Force museum. We didn't stop but from what we learned later, we should have. This day we paid the price for having to make motel reservations ahead of time. We were locked into our schedule and couldn't deviate. This day should have been turned into a 3-day trip, but that would have necessitated changing all our reservations, and that couldn't be done. I couldn't even stop to take the ten more rolls of film I would have taken if I had had the chance. Through Haast Pass, Tasman Bay, Bruce Point--a long sandy beach--we were the only ones on it. We could have spent all day here! Finally, Franz Josef glacier area and the Glacier Gateway Motor Lodge. Nine hours of driving--too much and too far in one day.

On to Nelson. We arrived in time to look around and see some of the sights. Found a small restaurant on Wakefield Quay, the Boat Shed. It wasn't open but we called the listed number and made reservations. They had one table left when we called at 3:15 for 6 PM reservations. We then went out to Cable Inlet where the first telephone cable came to NZ from Australia. Another beautiful beach with one other couple there, and no tourists, no buses, just a local beach.

The Boat Shed was a good choice, and we finally had our chance to get "crays" by the pound. You just pick out what you want from the tanks in the back, and they fix them for you--a real treat and a wonderful dinner. (As you probably know, "crays" are rock lobsters. We used to dive for them in shallow water in Hawaii.) The Boat Shed was one of the typical small restaurants we found throughout NZ, no more than 15 tables and they turned away more people than they accepted.

Nelson to Picton - We took the "short road" to Picton, not the main route south, and then back up north on #1. It was great. We were told that it was hilly and winding. and that it was! Only take this road if you want an experience in driving. The scenery was great. Again the driving part of the trip was getting to us--too much driving, and not enough relaxing. We arrived in Picton by 2:00, checked in and then went around to see the city. Went to the Edwin Fox, the last remaining sailing ship that sailed from England to New Zealand with passengers. At this point it is a hulk, last used as a refrigerated storage warehouse, but still floating. They are trying to rebuild it, but arguing between Picton, Wellington and Auckland as to who has the rights to it for rebuilding has stalled anything to date.

Picton to Wellington to Hastings - We had reservations on the 5:30 AM ferry, and our choice to go first class paid off. We got on board, went to the first class lounge, promptly stretched out on the couches and went to sleep, as there was only one other person there. We woke at 7:30 AM, had breakfast, and arrived in Wellington.

It was en the drive from Wellington that misfortune nearly caught up with us. In the middle of Masterton, the main road turns right and there were no signs designating the turn. At that point we had a discussion as to which way to go—straight through or turn right I thought it was a four-way stop, as there was a pickup on my left waiting to turn right, and a car across the street in front of me waiting to come through the intersection, and a car behind me waiting for me to make up my mind. So I started to go through. What they were all waiting for was a logging truck coming from the right that was going through the intersection. I stopped just in time--10 more feet would have been disaster.. We had planned on going to the International Sheep Shearing Championships, as they were starting the next day, but with our scheduled motels, we couldn't take the time.

Hastings to Napier to Turangi We met one of my company's representatives in Hastings, and went to Vidal Winery Brasserie and had a very nice evening meal. We also had an excellent tour

of the Benedictine Vineyard there and sampled the fine wine they produce.

Left Hastings and drove through Napier to see the art deco architecture. Stopped at Wapiunga Falls, very scenic, then on to Taupo and south to Motuoapa Bay where my friends had arranged a fishing trip on the lake. We came down the east side of Lake Taupo on a Sunday morning. The traffic was very light and there were few people on the lake. On such a beautiful day I would have expected more. Everything was arranged and we had a very nice charter boat fishing trip. I even caught a 4.5# Lake Taupo rainbow trout, the only fish that hit our lures.

We went back to our motel, the Bridge Fishing Lodge Motel, a very nice place on the banks of the river and asked them to cook the fish for us for dinner, which they were happy to do. It was wonderful--more than 4 of us could eat. While at the lodge I started talking to one of the workers, and he volunteered to show me the mini museum they had in a meeting room. It housed a collection of fly rods, reels, lures and pictures of fishing on and around Lake Taupo. Pictures of the catches they made in the 30s and 40s were quite unbelievable.

Turangi to Whakatane - Headed out for our first farm stay, and arrived too early--at 2 PM, so we just said hello, and our hostess told us about several things to see in the area. We found a small beach on the map which she said was one of the best in the area. The local people used it and didn't promote it for the tourists. We followed the map and found it, a round bay, with a small opening to the ocean, again only 6 people on the beach.

We collected shells and enjoyed a very nice 2- hour stay. Returned to our farm stay with John and Jill Needham on Paul Road, Whakatane--excellent hosts. They have a nice home on top of a hill with a view over flat plain and on over to a dormant volcano. They raise red deer and elk and a few sheep

One activity they told us about was a trip to White Island. I had never read about it in any tourist information, but they said it is a very interesting day trip. You helicopter over and hike around. You can call Vulcan Helicopters at 07-308-4188 to check on the trip. They indicated that there is an active volcano on the island.

Whakatane to Te Puru - Again we had to skip the east coast. We went along it for a short time and then cut across towards Te Puru. We stopped for 2 hours in Katikati--very interesting. The town has commissioned various artists, very good ones, to paint large murals on the sides of buildings in the town. These murals depict people, events and places from the surrounding area. It is very colorful and interesting, well worth the time.

Continued on to Te Puru and the Coromandel Peninsula. We checked into the Puru Park Motel, and then continued on the road north up the peninsula to Coromandel. The road up the west coast makes the Hana Road in Maui seem a straight line, but we enjoyed it and the views were terrific. We didn't have time to go south all the way around the peninsula, and I later learned that the east coast area is the best part of the Coromandel. Again

this is not a tourist area. The information I read was correct. The New Zealanders keep the Coromandel area for themselves, and I can't blame them. It's near Auckland and if it was full of tourists, where would the Aucklanders go for a weekend retreat? One point of information though--the beaches on the west side are all rock. If you want sand beaches go to the east side of the peninsula. We came back and ate at the Old Thames, an excellent restaurant--moderately priced and fine food--a local place.

Te Puru to Whangarei - We left quite early to avoid the heavy traffic through Auckland, and got north in good time. We drove to Ngunguru, found a wonderful beach area in a small bay and spent quite a bit of time looking for shells, and walking in the sand and surf. Again no one there except us, and again a challenging road to get there. We came back and ate at Benny's, but we missed out by not going down to the newly renovated wharf area in Whangarei. This is a new area, dressed up and very much worth the visit. We also missed out on seeing the Clapham Clock Museum. It was closed by the time we realized where it was. Plan on spending at least 2 days in this area. We only spent a few hours--our loss!

Whangarei to Auckland (last day ) - We had highlighted the Kauri Museum in Maungaturoto. It is out in the country and not easy to find--no directional signs again, but we found it just when it opened. This is a must stop if you are interested in the natural history of this part of NZ. I had no idea of the size of the kauri trees, as large as the redwoods in California. The information presented on the logging industry during the kauri boom days is not unlike the white pine or redwood lumbering booms in the US.

The history of "kauri gum" collection or mining was intriguing, and I kept wondering what kauri gum was like. We found out--amber. The way in which it was found is a very interesting part of the history of New Zealand. Also at this museum is an amber collection--the largest I have ever seen and very impressive. I have seen amber collections in Russia, Washington DC, Switzerland, and Germany, but nothing compared to this. It is huge and so interesting in the types of carving, and amount of raw amber in large globules. Don't skip this stop if you have any control over your thp.

Well, this was the end. We left there, stopped at the main office of our company in Auckland, left 4 boxes of "things" for them to ship home, and went to the airport. We were really exhausted. We had driven too much, saw too much and tried to do too much in too little time. If I could, I would take 3 weeks in the North Island and 4 weeks in the South Island on two different trips, or just spend 6 months. We enjoyed it, had a great time, and as we discuss our trip with others who have gone to New Zealand, we find that we saw many times more than anyone I have talked to, but I feel we missed about as much as we saw. Oh, well, lots to see next time!

When I talk about New Zealand I still get excited and have to tell anyone who will listen! When people ask me about my trip to NZ and what I saw compared with the United States, I tell them I didn't see much that one can't see in the US. But here it will just take 20 years of travel to see it and you will fight crowds

of people. In New Zealand you can see it in eight weeks. Every time you turn a corner you get a new vista, and there are very few people. John Proctor, 5600 W. 162nd St., Stilwell, KS 66085.

BOOK CORNER

New Zealand Handbook , by Jane King

As I've written before in the KIWIphile FILE, in my opinion this is the book to take when you go to New Zealand, and/or to use in your planning.

It's a fascinating and well-researched book that answers all your questions in detail. The guide includes charts and special topics; extensive mapping; information on outdoor recreation; botanical gardens, parks and reserves; accommodation options; museums and galleries; transportation; ideas for travel with children; and more.

You can buy the book in travel and book stores everywhere. You may order directly from Moon Publications, P.O. Box 3040, Chico CA 95927-3040, USA. Tel. (916) 345-5473. Fax (916) 345-6751. http://www.moon.com

Classic New Zealand Adventures

Here is the second edition of a guidebook, new to me, published in the UK.

Kickstart your travels in NZ with this best- selling guide to the country's greatest asset--the outdoors. Here to whet the appetites of hesitant beginners, dedicated enthusiasts and raving hard- cases are over 200 adrenalin-stimulating adventures in New Zealand's spectacular mountains, rivers, coastline and bush.

Plan your adventures in blackwater rafting, mountain biking, soaking in hot pools, skywalking, pillocking, and much more. A Kiwi quartet of experienced guides and adventurers has researched "how- to" details and essential planning information to get you snorkeling off Goat Island, tramping the Great Walks and lesser-known trails, caving in the Lost World, mountain biking Craters of the Moon, and squeezing into Haggis Honking Hole.

Here's a sample from the boolc The World's Worst Tramp--The "Kauaeranga Valley-Table Top" tramp involves hard physical toil in unrelenting mud. This trip has no highlights, no rewards and no views. Your most poignant memory will be returning to your car after about 8 hours of grovelling. This track is so unpleasant and environmentally unsound that it hasn't even been acknowledged on the new Topo- maps If you want a view, take a ladder. (For more details, see the book, page 62).

The book is small in size and in easy-to-read print. You can purchase the book by contacting:

Hunter Publishing Inc., 300 Raritan Center Pkwy,

Edison NJ 08818, USA. Phone (908) 225-1900.

FAX (407) 546-8040.

E-mail: hunterppp@emi.net

($16.95).

LETTER BOX

I'm enclosing a card for the KIWiphile FILE. I visited a couple I know who have a farm near Raglan (about 30 min. drive from Hamilton). The husband's son has a bed and breakfast at his own farm. It is remote but has wonderful 360 degree views (including the ocean). The furnishings are modern but simple.

One can have bed and breakfast or Marcus will cook all the meals, or one can rent a housekeeping unit and do their own cooking.

This really is a place for people who want to be on a very private farm that's a 20-25 min. drive to the nearest town. It is beautiful.

Marcus Vernon's Farmstays, tel. 07-825 6892, or fax 07-825 6896.

Sharon Lawler, California

In a recent article in KlWlphile FILE the writer referred to a kiwifruit (Actinidia chinensis) as a "kiwi". To us this is exactly the same as calling a grapefruit a grape. The only acceptable term for what used to be called a Chinese gooseberry is kiwifruit.

To us, a kiwi is a bird of the Apteryx species, or a colloquial term for a New Zealander. Many overseas people come here talking of "kiwis", and it confuses us no end until we grasp the fact that they are referring to "kiwifruit."

Incidentally, the NZ Kiwifruit Marketing Board, a co-operative organisation of export growers, has discovered that New Zealand has no rights to the name "kiwifruit", and has therefore taken out a registration internationally on the name "Zespri". In future all chinese gooseberries grown in NZ to export quality and marketed overseas will be sold under this name.

So just because the fruit on the shelf in a supermarket in the US is labelled "Kiwifruit", it could in fact have been grown in Spain, Serbia, Mexico, Portugal, Italy, California, Guatemala, France, or anywhere. Only Zespri is a product of New Zealand, and will be of the quality that in the past has been limited to NZ developed and grown chinese gooseberries.

To clarify further, the name Zespri is a trade name, a brand, not a replacement name for kiwifruit. The marketers hope that in future, consumers will ask for Zespri in much the same way as people today ask for Coke (for a cola drink) or Bacardi (for a rum).

Here is an article from the Readers' Digest book, "Guide to New Zealand", Coromandel-Bay of Plenty section:

'The volcanic soils and the warm, moist, almost subtropical climate of the region provide an ideal environment for nurturing the kiwifruit, with its confusing flavour that is a mix of bananas, watermelons, strawberries and oranges. Each year, thousands of tonnes of this brown, furry fruit are flown all over the world.

"Vines were first planted in the Bay of Plenty area in 1925. Prolific growth encouraged use of a

hard-pruning technique developed by the Bayliss brothers. They were also the first to invest in the new hybrid fruit bred by Hayward Wright in Auckland. (It is now the dominant strain.)

"When it was first brought to New Zealand from its native China in 1906, the fruit of the wild vine Actinidia chinensis was known as the Chinese gooseberry. This name proved a handicap during the first attempts to sell the fruit abroad. Gooseberries had been generally un- popular and thought of as bitter. Strained American- Chinese relations in the 1950's dampened any cultural appeal the fruit might have had. In a brilliant stroke of marketing, a new name, kiwifruit, was invented, and the export markets responded eagerly.

"Sales are helped by the advantage the crop has over most other fruit. If picked just before it becomes ripe, kiwifruit can be chilled and stored (for long periods), then taken out and ripened for a few days before it is displayed in the shops.

The continuing success of the Bay of Plenty's investment in this remarkable export industry depends on the reaction to a spin-off. Hundreds of thousands of kiwifruit plants, including the Hayward variety, have been sold abroad. Will the United States, Italy, France, Australia or Japan soon prove as productive as the rich belt of vines between Tauranga and Opotiki?"

(Editor: Mr. Norton also enclosed a copy of a letter recently published in the NZ Herald's Letters to the Editor column. See letter below).

This letter is a view of our way of life from a visitor from Michigan, and shows that one needs to come to this country (or any other country) with an open mind. (The comment made about airport or departure taxes applies not only to this country, but to many, if not most others, where sometimes the taxes are exorbitant even by NZ standards). If you want everything to be exactly the same as it is in your home country, then why bother to come here (or anywhere)?

Some of the points raised in this letter though, are valid, and it is hoped enough NZers realize this to be able to make adjustments and fine-tune things. But in trying to satisfy visitors from Michigan, we can't afford to get off-side with visitors from Seoul, Kyoto, Quebec, Munich, Oslo, or all the other places our visitors come from.

Another letter (not printed here due to space restrictions) deals with an aspect of NZ we wish didn't exist, but unfortunately, it does. Many visitors tend to let their guard down because they know we have a reputation as a law-abiding people and country. However, crime exists here as it does in most other places in the world. All usual precautions must be taken.

It appears the most common action taken by tourists that contributes to them becoming a victim of crime, is their failure to lock their hotel/motel doors. Opportunist thefts by criminals just walking into guests' unlocked rooms at any time of the day or night occur regularly.

I'm including a whole page item from the Rotorua Daily Post (Ed. not included here for lack of space), and refers to the company mentioned in the article headed "Hangi Feast" on the front page of your December K.F.

Mike Tamaki worked with me a few years ago, then went out and started his own sightseeing company. From this he developed the concept of giving visitors not just a Las Vegas style Maori concert but letting them experience and participate in a whole "cultural experience". Mike no longer does sightseeing tours of Rotorua. Along with his brother Doug and his parents, he has put all his expertise and natural charisma into the award-winning concept described in this article that has now become the benchmark for this type of activity.

Trevor Norton, Driver Rentals, 8 Miller

St., Rotorua, NZ. , Ph. 64 7 3484 129,

Fax 64 7 3489 508

(Mr. and Mrs. Norton are members of KiwiHosts and members of Rotorua Area Tourism Transport Operators' Assn, and the NZ Tour Drivers' Guild.)

Letter mentioned above, NZ Herald, Dec. 16, 1996:

My wife and I have just spent a month touring New Zealand. I thought you might be interested in our observations. First I must compliment you on the quality of your newspaper.

We travelled by car and stayed in both motels and bed-and-breakfast lodgings. We spent about equal time in the North and South Islands.

New Zealand is the most beautiful country we have seen in our travels, and we found the people very kind and considerate.

The quality of our lodgings was very good; however, we found the hot water dangerously hot.

We did not care much for the food in your restaurants, finding it too much of a mixture for our taste--as if the chefs were trying to satisfy the food preferences of tourists from several nations with the same dish.

Food, petrol, and so on were at least twice as expensive as at home. This gives us a much greater appreciation of our US cost of living. If you are interested in your tourist industry (and exports) you might try to devalue your dollar.

Since your drivers don't know how to use them, turn signals could be eliminated from cars sold in New Zealand.

Road signs are a problem. There should be more highway number signs--particularly after a turn or passing through a traffic circle (loved the traffic circles). Also the direction should be indicated on the highway signs:

for instance, Highway 1 North.

When we visit Canada, we are able to get the GST tax on items purchased refunded by using a mail-in form. No such luck in NZ. After being taxed about $700 by GST while staying in NZ, your Government had the gall to charge us a $20 a head departure tax.

Visitor from Michigan

BUBBLY AS FERRY FINALLY COMES IN

From Hauraki Herald

Champagne flowed on the Coromandel ferry on December 20th as travellers celebrated the inaugural crossing between Coromandel and Auckland.

Only a few "minor hitches' interrupted the sailing--like the lack of docking facilities at Waiheke Island's Kennedy's Point, leaving it to the ingenuity of workers operating an earth moving digger to transfer several passengers to land.

A special midday sailing was cancelled due to time constraints, but the ferry made its two regular crossings.

The ferry owner Stuart Innes said the idea for the Coromandel-Auckland ferry service stemmed from "two mates yakking about how we could put some trout in the rivers and get the tourists over to fish.

"But we realised that we didn't have a way of getting the tourists over here, so we decided to look into a ferry service. The trout can wait."

The first crossing left from Hannaford Pt, about 3km around the Coromandel Harbour from the township. This crossing was 3 1/2 weeks later than originally scheduled after several delays with parts and sea trials.

Fifty-eight passengers were on board, and 50 people were on the jetty and in boats to wave off the ferry, described by one passenger as a "party on water."

Champagne and finger food were served all day and the ferry was decorated with streamers and balloons.

Mr. Greg Relph and staff from a Coromandel oyster farm made the return day trip to Auckland. They headed to the casino for their Christmas work "shout".

"It's taking about an hour and a half to cross the gulf, which sure beats driving two and a half hours to Auckland, then having to drive home again", Mr. Relph said.

CONTEMPORARY WORKS IN VOGUE

Contemporary work of NZ artists of the highest calibre feature at In Vogue, a very special art studio in Thames. Artists and art connoisseurs alike know a hner selection of artwork will not be found anywhere else in New Zealand.

The 120-year-old heart kauri cottage which houses these outstanding examples of art by NZ craftspeople is the perfect setting for a studio which reflects this country's cultural heritage.

READERS-- KIWIphile FILE NEEDS your letters and stories. Please submit by May 1st. Thank you.