Volume X, No. 3
MARCH 1998
WHATS NEW

New Hours at Rainbow Springs Park - Rainbow Springs Park in Rotorua is now open until 7:30 pm. It features a showcase of New Zealand flora and fauna, native birds, rainbow trout, the unique Kiwi bird, and New Zealand's living dinosaur, the Tuatara.
More Than Just An Aquarium - Walk the wilds of the South Island, talk to divers while they swim with the sharks, cross a swing bridge, explore a glowworm cave, and spend a weekend at a fishing lodge--all in the heart of central Christchurch.
Southern Encounter, Christchurch's newest attraction, recreates the beauty and splendor of the South Island waterways and landscape with a giant 30-tank aquarium and theme nature park. In addition, it provides a unique venue for conferences and special events.

WANAKA - GATEWAY TO
SOUTH ISLAND ATTRACTIONS

Wanaka region provides an ideal vacation base for a trip to New Zealand. Located in the lower central South Island, it is the heartland of the high country lake district and the entryway to Mt. Aspiring National Park. Lake Wanaka is New Zealand's fourth largest lake, with crystal clear emerald waters reflecting the snow-capped Southern Alps.
From horse trekking to kayaking. hiking to tandem skydiving, mountain biking to skiing, Wanaka is full of surprises for active adventurers. For those seeking more quiet discoveries, there is the NZ Pilots Museum, Puzzling World & Great Maze, and the Transport Museum. Scenic flights offer birds' eye views of glaciers, mountains, lakes, waterfalls, and fiords. Best of all, travelers are well placed to visit the West Coast, Mt. Cook National Park and Fiordland. A leisurely drive to Queenstown takes only an hour and a half.
Visitors have many choices in food--candlelit dinners with lakeside views, country pub dining, cafes, takeout bars or sizzling BBQs by the lake.
And to top off the day, they can sip the local wine while watching a sunset over the lake and mountains.
Wanaka offers a wide range of shops including an antique and gift gallery, a unique puzzle store, and New Zealand arts and crafts.
From backpacker and motor camps to deluxe hotel resorts and farmstays, Wanaka has a complete range of accommodation. For more information, contact Wanaka Visitor Information Centre, Ardmore St., Wanaka, NZ. Ph 011 64 3 443 1233 or Fax 011 64 3 443 9238.

REVITALIZING NEW ZEALAND WALKS

Now is the time to book any of New Zealand's world renowned walks, each a passport into a great untouched outdoor playground.
New Zealand is laced with a network of walkways and tracks, offering astonishing changes in scenery, from stunning mountain peaks, lush rainforests and immense waterfalls, to wild coasts and beech forests. Unique birdlife includes the reclusive kiwi, the mischievous kea (native mountain parrot), the kakapo (the world's largest parrot), the yellow eyed penguin, and the massive royal albatross.
The most famous is the Milford Track, known as one of the best walks in the world. The 33 mile trek is set in Fiordland, which has been awarded World Heritage status. Glacier-cut fjords, lakes, ice-shorn spurs, plus lush beech-podocarp and rairiforest are home to rare species of plants, animals and birds. Walkers must be fit enough to carry a medium size backpack for six to eight hours each day. The track is open November through April. Price is from US$1095 to US$1283 for six days. Included are meals, guide, accommodation, scenic cruises on Lake TeAnau and the Milford Sound, plus coach tour from Milford Sound to TeAnau or flight to Queenstown.
Equally lauded in the Fiordland region is the Hollyford Valley Walk, a spectacular year-round low altitude walk. One of the most restful treks, the 35 mile walk is downhill all the way except for a 550 ft rise on the first day. Beginning in the beech forests of the Alpine Divide, the track follows the valley to the sea past snowclad peaks,
1


cascading waterfalls, mixed lowland rainforest and coastal wildlife. Packages include guide, accommodation, meals, transport, and in some cases a scenic flight and cruise. Priced from US$893 to US$936 for four days.
The three day Routeburn Walk cuts through dense forest of both Fiordland and Mt. Aspiring National Parks, beginning and ending in Queenstown. Alpine pastures, dramatic falls and mighty peaks make the walk unforgettable. The 25 mile Routeburn can also be combined with the Greenstone Walk. The six day, 45 mile Grand Traverse connects the Greenstone and Routeburn Rivers through an alpine traverse. Walkers need to carry a medium sized pack for five to six hours a day. The walks operate from late October until late April. The Routeburn Walk is priced from US$656 to US$735 and The Grand Traverse from US$863 to US$985. Packages include accommodation in mountain lodges, guides and meals.
In the north of the South Island, Abel Tasman National Park Enterprises' Guided Walks and Sea Kayaking offer a relaxed year-round retreat in a sub tropical region of native forest, golden sand beaches, and clear coastal waters. The untouched environment is home to native birds and marine life, and boasts one of the best climates in New Zealand. Walks range from two to six hours during the three or five day walking or three day kayakingftrekking packages. Walkers need only to carry a light day pack and walks can be shortened by coastal launch. The packages include transfers, meals, historic lodge accommodation, a launch cruise and canoes (or kayaks on the kayaking trip), and are priced from US$431 to US$825.
In the North Island, Whirinaki Guide Walks offer a unique cultural experience in one of the world's great rainforests. The Whirinaki Forest east of Taupo and Rotorua has been home to the Tuhoe Maori people, long known as the Children of the Mist, for hundreds of years. Descendents of the Tuhoe act as guides today. The most popular experience is the two day trek, which flies visitors into the park by helicopter, and requires moderate fitness. After the trek guests are transported to a local marae, a traditional meeting place of Maori, for a unique cultural experience. Sophisticated camp facilities and meals, plus wet weather gear and day packs are supplied. The company also offers a three day trek. Treks run from mid-October until mid-April and are priced from US$336 to US$368.
The Tongariro World Heritage Trek, also in the central North Island, includes active volcanoes, crater and alpine lakes, pristine rain forest, plunging waterfalls, and interesting native flora and fauna in a four day package. The trek includes some steep climbs and requires reasonable fitness. The experience includes the trek over the saddle between Mts. Ngauruhoe
and Tongariro and a walk to the top of Mt. Ruapehu, which began erupting in 1995, attracting international attention and visitors. The package is available December through April and includes accommodation at the foot of Mt. Ruapehu at the Grand Chateau, plus all meals, transfers and guides, from US$669 to US$765.
For further information about the Hollyford Valley Walk please contact Adventure Center at ph: (800) 227-8747, Goway at ph: (800) 387-8850 or Mount Cook Tours at ph: (800) 688-9709 ext 400. Or contact the New Zealand Tourism Board at ph: (800) 388-5494.

NEW ZEALAND ARTS FESTIVAL

The 1998 New Zealand Arts Festival features more than 100 performing arts events and exhibitions from all over the world. An Andalucian opera featuring a dancing white stallion, a circus of high-flying Australian children, an epic theatrical masterpiece, and a 19th century opera of the triumph of love over tyranny are highlights of the festival to be held from February 27-March 22 in Wellington.
Beethoven's only opera Fidelio Will be performed by an international cast and creative team. Arnold Schoenberg's massive choral work Gurrelieder, will be sung by a choir of more than 250 singers and an orchestra of 142 players. The Mark Morris Dance Group from the USA will be performing and the Lyon Opera Ballet Company from France will perform a delightful rendition of Cinderella.
In addition, the world's finest writers will gather March 10-18 for a series of stimulating seminars.
For more information, Ph 011 64 4 473 0149, Fax 011 64 4 471 1164, or E-mail: nzfestival@festival.co.nz

INTREPID INTERNET - from AVENUES

Wayfarers with umbilical cords to their Internet service providers now have options for relatively painless foreign access, which are far cheaper than calling home and logging in long-distance.
HomeGate (www.homegate.net), founded in October 1996, is a global roaming service that allows users to access their home ISPs through a local telephone call from all around the world (more than 160 countries so far, including China). Travelers can use the same software, password, and E-mail address as they do at home.
Some ISPs, including Netcom (www.netcom.com) and America Online (www.aol.com), offer local dial-ups in many countries. Surcharges abound; ask about fees by the month, hour, and minute for foreign use.

KAKAPO RESCUE IS happy to announce

"Solstice" -- A female kakapo was found on Stewart Island. Her name is "Solstice" because she was found in May on the shortest day of the year.
Codfish Island -- Zephyr is the proud mother of
2


two chicks, both male. Their names are "Sirocco" and "Tiwai". Mother and chicks are doing well. Alice is the mother of "Manu" ("important" or "leader" in Maori). Manu is a male chick. Alice is also the mother of Snark, who is possibly the most famous kakapo. Hopefully, Snark will breed soon.
KAKAPO RESCUE, 4271 South 1350 East, Salt Lake City, UT 84124. Ph. 801-272-6833.

SURVIVAL SKILLS FOR VISITING YANKS (Saturday Soapbox by Jodi Wright) THE PRESS On-line

"Tis the season, the season for jandals, tramping, and the traditional Kiwi summer pastime of having a laugh at the tourists known throughout the world as "Yanks" or in some countries as "those bloody Yanks!"
We're easy enough to spot. Most of us don our country's uniform: white shoes, gold jewellery, designer handbags, brightly coloured clothes, and caps on our teeth and head.
Just in case you don't see us, you'll be sure to hear us. Many of us speak clearly, loudly, and ask lots of questions such as : "What the hell is this sliced beet doing on my hamburger?"
Visiting New Zealand is often a problem for American tourists. It all begins when we check into our hotel or motel. First we're confronted with the light- switch thing, then we can't find the central-heating knob, and to top it off, the toilet is in the closet and our hair- dryer won't fit into the outlet.
I know all this keeps you Kiwis laughing, but in the spirit of fairness I have to let my fellow Americans in on a few New Zealand survival skills.
One of the most important rules is don't follow strangers onto the road, especially if the strangers are crossing while the traffic continues to speed towards them.
They are jaywalking.
know it's illegal, immoral, and downright un- American, but it is allowed, encouraged, and taught to all New Zealanders from a young age.
Dodging traffic is good for co-ordination, and perhaps the most popular exercise in the country.
You may get the opportunity to witness an entire family standing in the middle of a busy road waiting for a break in the traffic. When a gap does appear, such as between a tour bus and a Range Rover, it's every man, woman, and child for themselves.
Most of the time they make it, but it's a real anxiety producer.
Try not to watch.
It is in your best interest to digest this next big truth: pedestrians do not have the right of way in New Zealand.
More important and appalling to all Uncle Sam's children--you cannot sue even if you are run over on a crosswalk (pedestrian crossing).
So, if you find yourself waiting at a crosswalk hoping for a courteous driver to stop and let you cross, but the traffic continues to fly by, the best thing to do is to try to make eye contact with the driver of an approaching vehicle (pretend you're hailing a cab).
Once eye contact has been made, the driver will probably stop just before he introduces his tyres (I know it's spelt wrong) to your toes.
The most important rule is: New Zealanders don't want to drive on the right-hand side of the road. Don't talk to them about it. They've heard it a million times, and it's a boring subject.
Instead, talk about how much money you make and all the really neat stuff you have back home.
If you insist on driving while visiting, make sure that you the driver and the steering wheel are the closest to the centre of the road, and if you ever see cars, trucks, or vans coming straight for you, the chances of them being on the wrong side of the road are slim to none-- move to your left.
After a day on the road you'll probably be exhausted and in need of a cup of coffee and a bite to eat.
Christchurch has excellent cafes and restaurants, and although they have a lack of grovelling servants to wait on you (they aren't working for big tips here), you'll get your food and drink in a timely manner and it will probably be great.
A few tips that may make your cafe experience a positive one: if you want cream in your coffee, order a flat white. Black coffee is a long black.
If you desire iced tea, just order a pot of tea, a glass of ice, and a slice of lemon--it's easier that way.
New Zealanders have an old term of endearment about us Yanks (other than "Cheater, Cheater") and you may hear it while you're visiting.
Try not to take offence. It means nothing. It's probably gibberish, garbage, and the babblings of a jilted, underpaid New Zealand soldier, but anyway it goes like this: "Americans--overpaid, oversexed, and over here." One out of three ain't bad, huh?
Jodi Wright is director of Christchurch's Festival of Romance and the Buskers' Festival. She has lived in New Zealand for nine years.

COOL NEW SITES

Bird lovers of the world should not miss the Kiwi Wildlife Tours web site featuring New Zealand bird songs. Visitors are led through the site by signposts just as they would be in a National Park. Information includes details about why tourists should travel to New Zealand and what's so special about the country's birds, as well as information about tour itineraries and how to book a tour. The web site can be viewed at http://www.kiwi-wildlife.co.nz
For those seeking outdoor adventures--hiking, kayaking, nature tours, horse treks, cycling, or
3


cruising, Naturally New Zealand Holidays offers a variety of quality trips to hot tourist destinations and the remote back country. Check out their web site at http://nzholidays.co.nz

TANTALISING THE TASTEBUDS - NZ Herald

The New Zealand ice-cream industry is not exempt from the cyclical nature of history. Corporate takeovers and changing fashions have consolidated the bulk of ice-cream production with a single company, Tip Top.
At present owned by Heinz, the company is up for sale, but in a replay of the 1940s, small ice-cream makers are appearing to cater for ice-cream aficionados whose tastes extend beyond plain vanilla.
John Thomas is the Welshman behind Ginelli and Sons, one of the growing number of successful boutique ice-cream makers. The name reflects the Italian sorbets and gelatos Thomas first began to make more than five years ago.
The food technologist formerly worked for a Dutch food processing machinery maker that relocated operations to Australia. Thomas decided to stay and start his own business.
Starting with help from his wife Barbara, his business now turns over more than $1 million and employs three staff.
Thomas' idea of Italian sorbets and gelatos soon foundered on the fact that New Zealanders' tastebuds preferred ice-cream.
The company still makes Italian desserts but its success rides on premium ice-cream made with cream, egg yolk, sugar and natural flavourings.
Though Thomas agrees that New Zealand's base ice-cream standard is good, the regulations do not specify cream. Cheaper brands can be made from a mixture of anhydrous milk fat, and cheap overseas ice-cream can be made with vegetable fats and skim milk powder.
"We wouldn't dream of making ice-cream without cream. We think ice-cream has to be made from cream, milk, egg yolk and sugar," he says.
Thomas' main clients are hotels, restaurants and airline caterers where special flavours like wattleseed, licorice and manuka honey can be whipped up in a short time.
If Thomas is a newcomer, then Hawkes Bay ice- cream maker Rush Munro's is an institution. On December 22 the company marked its 70th birthday.
General manager Alastair McSporran says the company's recent sale to the Kiwi Dairy Corporation, producer of the Mainland and Tui brands, has let the business expand.
The ice-cream garden in Hasting's fast-food strip, Heretaunga St., with lavender and fountains, will be spruced up, along with the manufacturing floor. For the first time An decades Rush Munros has acquired new tablespoons to fashion its trademark "Peak" cone.
McSporran believes people like the absence of plastic marketing hype. There's much to be said too for real fruit flavours like feijoa, boysenberry, and blueberry.
Under the new owner, McSporran says Rush Munro's will remain a premium ice-cream maker. Its produce typically contains 18 per cent cream, 40 per cent air and 15 per cent fruit.
Nor is the scale likely to change. McSporran says when the staff make cherry ice-cream, they pit the cherries themselves, a time-consuming process that ensures a flavour that is rarely available.
After 10 years making specialised ice-cream, he sees the cafe boom being repeated for boutique ice-cream makers.
McSporran: "New Zealanders are becoming more sophisticated in their tastes. They want real coffee now and choice. The same thing will happen to ice cream."
(Ed.--! was delighted recently to find Annie's New Zealand "super supreme" ice cream here in a Whole Foods Store. There were several flavors, but I chose Hokey- Pokey, a NZ invention--utterly delicious. I hope others of you will have the same good fortune. There's nothing like New Zealand ice-cream--and other dairy products!)

(The following is from a new magazine published for overseas distribution by Warwick Finn, Publishers Ltd., Christchurch, NZ. Following the article is information on how to get a free copy of A SLICE OF HEAVEN.)

DRIVING IN NEW ZEALAND - from A Slice of Heaven So you want to drive yourself around New Zealand? If you're not familiar with driving in a country like New Zealand, there are certain things to keep in mind.

Remember to keep left - For visitors who are used to right-hand driving, keeping to the left on New Zealand roads might seem strange at first. If it's a new experience for you, travel on public transport at first. While you're in a taxi or bus you can sit behind the driver and "mimic" how they drive.
Remember the speed limits - New Zealand's speed limits are quite low compared with speeds on German autobahns.
The open road speed limit in New Zealand is 100 kilometres per hour, with a lower speed of 50km for city and built-up areas.
Don't follow too close - Many accidents in New Zealand are caused by drivers following each other too closely, and crashing because they can't stop in time. Follow the "two-second" rule: when you are following a car identify a point on the side of the road such as a post, count for two seconds. If you pass that same post before the two seconds is up, you are following too close. This test works at any speed.
4


Concentrate on your driving - Even though you are in New Zealand to look at the scenery, remember that driving takes a lot of concentration. If there's more than one of you in the car, take turns at being the driver and sightseeing passenger. Or if there's something you really want to see, stop the car and take a proper look.
Take special care on metal roads - A fairly high percentage of isolated roads in NZ are covered in loose metal instead of tarseal. Driving on metal roads takes extra skill and concentration. It's rural roads that claim some of our road accident victims. Appreciate the fact that roads are very treacherous with loose metal (gravel) and remember to reduce speed.
Take plenty of rest breaks - New Zealand highways have lots of "rest stops" along the roadside, which are usually marked by a sign with a symbol of a park bench and a tree. It's especially important to stop and rest if you have driven long distances, have jet-lag or are feeling tired.
Know what to do if an accident happens If it's only a minor accident and no one is injured, there is no need to call the police. (But if you want the police there for insurance reasons, they will attend). If the accident is more serious and someone has been injured, you must report it to the police within 24 hours.
Buying a Vehicle Many drivers like to buy a cheap car to take them around the country and then sell it again before leaving. This has its advantages--such as greater freedom and convenience--and if you buy a bargain it can be cheaper in the long-run.
There are various places to pick up a cheap car:
from private sales through the newspaper (Saturday's NZ Herald is a good place to look in Auckland, and The Press in Christchurch), to car auctions or saleyards. Beware of buying a car in a small town and then trying to sell it in a big city where prices and demand are lower.
Some helpful tips:
Check the car has a current warrant of fitness and registration.
Even if it is old, the car must be roadworthy. The seller is required by law to sell the vehicle with a current warrant of fitness that is no more than a month old. This is unless the seller and buyer agree otherwise. The warrant of fitness (or WOF) is a sticker on the front windscreen with a number (representing the month) and an expiry date written on it. The fine for not having a current WOF is $150. Most garages and or service stations carry out WOF checks.
Check the car is registered
All cars on the road must have a current registration sticker. Registration, for either six months or a year, can be paid at any Post Office. The fine for not registering a car is $200.
Remember to change ownership
When you buy a car, both the seller and the buyer must sign a change of ownership form. This is available from the Post Office which you both fill out, and states the car has changed hands and
is now owned by you. It is the seller's responsibility to mail this to the Post Office. It is the buyer's responsibility to fill in a form and pay a small fee at the Post Office within seven days and notify the Post Office of the purchase of the vehicle. Make sure you change the ownership when you sell the car, otherwise any fines or driving offences committed by the new driver will still be in your name.
Renting a vehicle - There are more rental car companies in the main centres. Auckland and Christchurch companies have had many years experience in dealing with tourists looking for a good low priced rental. It pays to shop around and compare, not only the prices but the car also. Some companies will claim the car is a late model car when in fact it may be 15/20 years old. It is worth renting from a VIRAL member who operates a standard code of practice.
The Automobi!e Association or "A.A." is a group which offers an excellent and cheap breakdown service and advice to drivers. If you are not confident about making on-the-road repairs to your car, it would be well worth joining the AA while you are travelling. If you belong to a similar organisation in your home country, then membership is free. You can ask for more information at any AA office, which are in most towns and cities.
Getting a license to drive in New Zealand - The easiest way to get an international driver's license is in your home country before you leave. Otherwise, you need to take your current license to the nearest police station and ask to apply for a NZ license. An officer will give you a short interview, and you might also be asked to take a simple written test and practical driving test. Converting overseas licenses to New Zealand is not necessary for a short term stay. Check with the AA for details. (Australian and British residents do not need to get a special license).
Anyone coming here would be best to have an international driver's permit current for one year from the date of issue. If you come here with just a regular drivers license, it needs to be current too. The fine for driving without a license is $350.
Most countries drivers licenses are acceptable to drive in NZ, or an international license. If in doubt check with your nearest NZ embassy.
Other Driving Laws - It is illegal not to wear a seatbelt in New Zealand. This includes passenger and rear seats if belts are available. The fine for not wearing one is $75.
Speeding tickets can cost you anything from $30 to $490, depending on how much you go over the limit.
Parking illegally can cost up to $40 a time.
New Zealand has recently tightened up on its drunk-driving laws and introduced "compulsory breath testing." This means if you are stopped in a random police check, you must take a breath test to see if you've been drinking. Anybody who drinks and drives over the limit can be caught and the penalties are stiff.
5


All children under 2 must use an infant or a child car seat. Children aged 2 and older must use a child restraint if available.
The law will require that children under 5 years of age use a suitable child restraint in all available seating positions.

(For absolutely no cost or obligation a complimentary copy of A SLICE OF HEAVEN magazine will be mailed overseas. Contact: Backpackers News, 50 Somme Street, St. Albans, Christchurch, NZ. Phone or fax 011-64-03-355-9055. You may Email: info@backpackersnews.co.nz )

A NEW BEGINNING - New Zealand Post

New Zealand was the last major land area outside the polar regions to be occupied by humans.
This occupation began a thousand years ago and involved perhaps a few thousand migrants who braved the southwest Pacific Ocean to get to New Zealand from central Polynesia.
European settlements began seriously in New Zealand around 1815, and by 1881 the non-Maori population had reached half a million. By the middle of that same decade, people born in New Zealand were a majority of the non-Maori population.
By the time the Immigration Act 1987 was passed, less than half of New Zealand's new permanent migrants were from Europe or North America. The new Act favoured those with skills New Zealand needed and, as a result, there was a rapid increase in the numbers of migrants coming from Hong Kong, Taiwan and Malaysia.
In the 1990s, a points system opened up immigration even further and by 1985 Taiwan had replaced Britain as the largest country of origin.
Today almost everyone living in New Zealand is descended from someone who arrived within the last two centuries.

TAKE THE PLUNGE IN NZ

Your spirit will soar with Pipeline Bungy, the highest land-based commercial bungy operation in Queenstown, New Zealand. Two of the company's directors have experience that goes back to the world's first commercial jump in 1988.
Safely secured, bungy jumpers are launched from the Pipeline walkway, the largest single-span suspension bridge in the Southern Hemisphere, 340 feet above the Shotover River in Skippers Canyon. The experience is kept personal, without crowds or lines.
Each jumper is videotaped and photographed, with no obligation to purchase. Souvenirs are for sale as well.
Adventurers can choose from a variety of packages.
Four-wheel-drive transport to and from the canyon plus the Pipeline jump costs NZ$130 (approximately US$84); if you just want to take a look, the picturesque drive is NZ$35 (US$23). For a ride in and out on a helicopter plus the bungy jump, the price is NZ$185 (US$119).
Packages offering jet boat and raft adventures are also available.
Call Pipeline Bungy in Queenstown at (011 64 3) 442-5455, or fax (011 64 3) 442-4029.
For a free 1998 "New Zealand Simply Remarkable Vacation Planner," call the New Zealand Tourism Board at 800/388-5494.

HOLLYFORD VALLEY WALK

The Hollyford Valley Walk Ltd, Fiordland, has released a special for its guided walks. Book for three and the fourth goes free on selected departures, February - April 1998. This special is available thcough any New Zealand travel agent or by booking direct on 0800 832 226. The special is available on 4 and 5 day tours.
The Hollyford Valley Walk Ltd is the only Fiordland walk company that offers tours year round. Other Fiordland guided walks close between April and November (approx.).
Besides guided walks, the Hollyford Valley Walk Ltd offers exclusive group tours and retreats, fishing tours, team building, one day wilderness air safaris, wilderness golf, and bird watching.
Our guests come from every walk of life, from every corner of the world. They visit the Hollyford Valley for a variety of reasons.
Some come to see the protected flora and fauna first hand, others to experience a wilderness region far removed from their everyday life. Many simply to walk a track in an area justly deserving of its World Heritage status.
No matter your reason for visiting, you'll discover that a guided walk in the Hollyford Valley will restore your faith that a region of such pristine beauty can still exist and is protected for anyone who wishes to experience it.
The Hollyford Valley Walk Ltd offers four and five day tours year round. Groups are strictly limited to 12 people per departure. All tours include pre-walk accommodation, dinner and breakfast, transport to and from the walk, all guiding, full interpretation of flora, fauna and history, all meals and accommodation, jet boating, scenic coastal flight and cruise on Milford Sound.
Ph (0800) 832 226, (03 443 3760, Fax 03 442 3761. P.O. Box 360, Queenstown, NZ. Home page: http://nz.com/Queenstown/Hollyford
E-mail: hvwalk@voyager.co.nz.

NEW ZEALAND FISHING CALENDAR

March - Weather still warm and settled. Last month for good mountain fishing and dry fly fishing. All waters fishing well. A less crowded month and a great time to go. Salt Water: Striped marlin prime, Yellowtail, Kahawai.
6


April - Autumn begins April 21. Last month of fishing season in most districts. Trout get very active as weather cools and a great time to fish. Start of the spawning run in the Taupo area. Uncrowded and a great time to go. Salt water: Striped marlin, Yellowtail, Kahawai.
May - This month and the next two are the best time for catching huge double figured trophy trout in the Rotorua area. These fish often exceed 12 pounds and can be taken trolling and fly fishing. Taupo runs of rainbows (originally steelhead stocks from Fishing International's neighboring streams) increasing. Uncrowded.
(The above from FISHING INTERNATIONAL, P.O. Box 2132, Santa Rosa CA 95405. 707-539-3366 or 800- 950-4242).

MOANA'S MONKEY ON TUKU T-SHIRTS - Local news from THE PRESS On-line

Greymouth--Tuku, Westland's politically incorrect, Moana-based monkey, is to be honoured in a pop-culture kind of way.
Moana Zoo manager Jacqule Grant said yesterday she was getting a number of "I support Tuku T- shirts made. The photograph on the shirts will be of Tuku the monkey.
Last week Tuku hit the headlines after New Zealand First MP Tukoroirangi Morgan took umbrage that the monkey had been named after him. Mr. Morgan said the name was ancestral and had been bestowed on him by his grandfather.
Ms Grant said Tuku the monkey got his name after he climbed onto a television and kissed Tuku the politician whenever he appeared on the screen.
"He has had the name for a year and in that time has appeared throughout the media with not a word said."
Ms Grant said she had received calls, cards, letters of support, and cheques which would go toward building the monkey his own pavilion.

Under Letters to the Editor, The Press:
Sir - Tuku Morgan's outrage at having a monkey named after him, and the supposed denigration of his ancestors (Jan. 17) is a sad but true commentary on New Zealand politicians--more concerned with the trivial than the many real issues confronting us all.
Just because I choose to call my cat Sam, does that mean I am insulting the history of everyone with that name? I don't think so. Congratulations to Ms Grant for her excellent sense of humour. Maybe Tuku Morgan should get one--lest he get caught with his pants down, again.
Richard Bourne

AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND TRIP - from pim
Dodge, Travel Writer, Host and Speaker - Michigan (Oct. 7 through Oct. 30, 1997)
Our flight to Australia departed at 10:30 in the evening, and I had time to meet at the gate the 45 people who were to be our bus companions for the next three weeks - 11 couples, 3 men traveling alone, and the rest were women by themselves, ranging in age from 19 (my granddaughter) to 40 (the daughter of one other passenger), into the 50's, 60's and 70's. Some of them were seasoned travelers and others were brand new to the game, but we could not have had a more cohesive, compatible group to "shepherd" as I served as the Bus Captain on our wondrous tour.
(Ed.: Then comes the wonderful Australia part of the trip, which I will not include since we are concentrating here on New Zealand).
We transferred the next morning to the airport at Melbourne for our flight to Christchurch, NZ, "the most English city outside of England".
We checked into the Chateau on the Park where a lovely dinner awaited us. The next morning after breakfast we headed out, seeing drastic changes in the scenery, toward Queenstown, sittng prettily on the lake, with spectacular viewing everywhere.
The A-Line Motel was our home here. We had time to go into town to do some opal and souvenir shopping, and even had time to visit, by request, the local American Embassy, McDonald's Restaurant.
The next day was a featured optional tour to Milford Sound. We traveled by bus and the tour included a boat trip through the Sound where we spotted the seals resting on the rocks and saw some of the most magnificent scenery in the world, called by some the 8th Wonder of the World. The Southern Alps are awe-inspiring and breathtaking.
Arrowtown, a mining town left over from by- gone days boasts great little shops, great souvenir buying and great people-meeting spots. That afternoon we took the Queenstown gondola ride, straight up over the town to Bob's Peak through the dark piney woods. The glass- walled restaurant and the walkarounds afforded all sorts of spots for picture taking.. .then that evening we boarded the vintage streamship, the TSS Earnslaw, taking us across Lake Wakatipu to Walter Peak. Here we toured the lakeside gardens and enjoyed a lovely, elegant dinner in their dining room overlooking the lake.
The next morning we boarded our coach to travel over the Lindis Pass into Mackenzie Country and down to Lake Cook, and journeyed into Fairlie where we met with our farm home hosts who took us into their homes for an absolutely delightful evening stay. Most of the homes are on cattle and/or sheep or deer farms and we joined them in feeding the animals, and touring their paddocks. That evening we enjoyed a typical "tucker", including the national dessert, Pavlova--a meringue filled with whipped cream and fruit. My granddaughter especially loved this visit.
7


A darling Jack Russell terrior, a lovely cream-colored cat, and a black pet lamb were her joys that evening.
Rejoining our group, we transferred to our bus to Auckland where some of our group left for the states and 18 of us transferred to the North Island and an overnight stay at the White Heron Hotel overlooking Auckland Bay.
The next day, driving through Hamilton to Waitomo and the Waitomo Caves, we visited those subterranean limestone caverns and took the boat ride through the Glowworm Grotto. Fireflies flash, glowworms glow! Lunch at the Waitomo Hotel, then a drive up to Rotorua to the center of the Maori culture where we enjoyed dinner and a stay at the Lake Plaza Hotel.
Some free time allowed us to explore this city. I love going through the grocery stores in another country. I took a large group with me as we played tourist, visited the souvenir shops and had lunch at Georgie Pies, similar to our McDonalds but serving meat pies rather than hamburgers.
We stopped by the bay the next morning to feed the black swans, and then it was on to the Agrodome to see the many breeds of sheep and the sheep dogs. Then on to Rainbow Springs, another lovely area to view the nocturnal kiwis (in the house that they built for them which changes day into night), the aviary, the fish ponds, and the deer farm and aquarium.
Then to the Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve and a tour of the Maori Arts and Crafts Institute, a model of the Maori village. We viewed the thermal area of boiling waters, bubbling mud pools and geysers. It is fascinating to observe these areas, where cooking is done in the boiling pools, where the natives keep alive their Hawaitiki Polynesian culture in classes for their youngsters, and where they observe those traditions known to their ancestors hundreds of years ago.
That evening at our hotel we attended a hangi, the Polynesian style meal cooked on steaming stones in a pit-- enjoyed by all of us--and watched the Maori troupe sing and dance their native songs.
Driving back to Auckland the next day, we visited the War Memorial Museum, then did a tour of the city, and it was back to the Auckland International Airport for our return flight to Los Angeles.
Positive comments and meeting once more with folks "down under" with whom I have become acquainted over the last few years have proven to me that in one more year, another trip bears planning. Anyone interested in joining us???

FURTHER TIDBITS FROM PIM DODGE

Haven't really said too much in my newsletter about a fall tour for next year, but with all the very positive comments I have received on the Australia/New Zealand trip of October 1997, and from the inquiries which I have received, I am seriously considering doing another tour there in October 1998. It is by far one of the most popular and one of the greatest trips I make.. and though it is indeed a long haul, from all the comments, "SO well worth it."
The New Zealanders were the nicest people we have met anywhere. Everyone was optimistic and friendly. They always had a smile and tried to be helpful.
The Kiwis have a lot of wonderful characteristics. They have more patented inventions per capita than any place in the world. They build and sail pretty fair sailboats. They are outdoor oriented and tramping (hiking) is a national sport. They are fit and trim (Auckland has the fewest number of obese persons per capita in the world). And they are now producing some of the finest wines in the world.
McDonald's has broken with tradition with the opening of its 100th outlet in New Zealand. The cafeteria-style restaurant is located on the campus of the Auckland Institute of Technology, and customers choose their own burgers, drinks, fries, desserts, and breakfasts.
The Patea Maori Club has re-released its album Poi E on compact disc almost 12 years after touring to New York, London and Edinburgh. The Patea Maori Club will be playing at several music festivals in the coming months, in the leadup to the Aotearoa Maori Festival later this year.
The last country in the world without telephone service made its first call recently. The 1300 residents of Tokelau have until now had to communicate through a noisy shortwave radio link to Western Samoa and a mail ship that arrived once every five weeks. The $2.8 million project installed phone lines to the nation of three coral atolls 1,700 miles north-east of New Zealand, which administers it.
pim: I corresponded with the secretary to Anne Geddes, that wonderful photographer who does pictures of babies dressed as vegetables, etc. I had hoped we would be able to have lunch at her studio in Auckland, but we arrived there on a Saturday night and were in town on Sunday when her studio is closed! If you haven't seen her works, there are great books and cards and you can find them in gift shops throughout the US.

FROM INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL NEWS

In a recent issue of ITN (see below) I noted a letter from a couple who had returned from New Zealand who warn that the US prepaid voucher price for Flag Hotels was considerably higher than the actual hotel costs in New Zealand. The prepaid vouchers were no bargain, and the couple saved money by paying in NZ dollars and returning the vouchers to Flag when they returned home.
They found that by paying in NZ cash for the remainder of the Auckland stay they saved 20% each day. Throughout the remainder of their NZ visit, they found the same situation--that the actual hotel charges were below the voucher price.
8


In addition they found meal prices to be much lower than in California--for instance, a dinner of roast lamb accompanied with seven vegetables for as little as US$5.00. They continued to eat incredibly well for very little, even in the most touristy areas.

INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL NEWS, in my opinion the ONLY travel publication, is the world's most down-to- earth. Besides providing up-to-date news and reference material about the world of travel, ITN is the medium by which travelers can exchange ideas and opinions. INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL NEWS, 1901 Royal Oaks Dr., Ste. 190, Sacramento CA 95815. Ph. 800-366-9192.

LETTER BOX

Not a great deal has changed over the last year and most of my hours during each day continue to be devoted to the affairs of NEW ZEALAND TRAVELERS. It's very much a full time job and all the hard work is a blessing.
I'll be going back to Vermont early this year, in April, and I dread the thought of Vermont in APRIL, but a re-organization of the NZT offices is somewhat overdue and I will be able to devote all my waking hours to getting it done.
I am well, if a bit over-stressed, and I continue to take all the BACKPACKING tours myself, still handling a 60 lb. pack over long distances just as easily, if not more easily than, years ago. I reckon that my musculature has changed as a result of the frequent backpacking (a solid 30 days in the wilderness during the past year) and it all is much easier now than it used to be. How fortunate I am!
Living in New Zealand continues to be an amazingly wonderful adventure and I have never had one second's regret about becoming an expatriate so late in life (I first came to NZ at age 54).
1998 is my 15th year in NZ and I've lived here at Tealcot for 11 years, the longest I have ever lived in one house in all my life. The swift passage of so many years is occasionally a reason for serious reflection and some summing-up: Staying at work is just part of a life-time continuum and so I haven't been faced with any endings, or conclusions such as retirement, or illness, or physical limitations. Life flows on in a familiar, stable pattern and when my chronological age asserts itself and tells me that I should be concerned with the passing of so many years, I do my best to ignore it and just carry on as before. On the bumper of my station wagon I have a marvelous Scots sticker that says "BASH ON REGARDLESS", a worthy modus vivendi.
Alan Riegelman, Nelson, NZ

(NEW ZEALAND TRAVELERS, INC., P0 Box 605, Shelburne VT 05482 - Phone 800-362-2718.)
Received the enclosed card from Kakapo Rescue. The flightless parrots they are attempting to save are extremely rare. Indeed, the birds are on the verge of extinction.
Sometime ago, I ordered a couple of T-shirts from this volunteer group. The shirts have a picture and the words "Save the Kakapo" on the front.
Just received the December issue of the KIWIphile FILE. Excellent!
Bob and I especially enjoyed the articles on the various restaurants. We will certainly contact some of the websites listed for more information. When I see familiar names such as Mike McClelland and our good friends Jim and Janete Thomas, it warms the cockles of my heart!
Keep up the good work!
Kitty Baier, California

Please contact KAKAPO RESCUE, 4271 South 1350 East, Salt Lake City, UT 84124, for information on items for sale to help the Kakapo. Ph. 801-272-6833.

NEW ZEALAND SHOWCASE

The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa was to open in Wellington, North Island, in February '98, bringing to life the stories of the country's peoples through interactive technology and other exhibits.
Via a motion-simulator ride, visitors will be able to "experience" the past, including an earthquake. A future home will be presented through virtual-reality technology. Outdoors, walk through samples of New Zealand's native bush, wetlands, old rock formations and limestone caves with glowworms.
Visitors also will see an example of a wake (canoe), in which the Maori people journeyed to New Zealand, and experience the cramped conditions of a European settler ship.
The museum is not just aimed at adults, seven- to 12-year-olds will love the hands-on activity areas where they can paint, weave, assemble, compute and play, with a host of special activities.
The museum is open from 10 am to 7 pm every day of the year. A range of shops, restaurants and cafes offer fine New Zealand food and products.
For more info, call the New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd., Ste 300, Santa Monica, CA 90401; phone 800/388-5494 or 310/395-7480, or fax 310/395-5453.

BRING ON THE MILLENNIUM!

The millennium is rapidly approaching and there are a number of major events occurring in New Zealand around that time which will have a very significant impact in a number of different areas.
Followers of the America's Cup will already know that 16 challengers from ten countries have confirmed their participation in the challenger
9


elimination series to be held in Auckland in 1999. Countries represented include Australia, Britain, France (2 entries), Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Russia, Spain, Switzerland and the USA (6 entries).
The New Zealand Cup Village is currently under construction in the heart of Auckland's viaduct basin and this will be the hub of the America's Cup activities including syndicate bases, media facilities, hospitality, and entertainment.
Prior to the America's Cup, New Zealand will host the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) meeting of foreign and economic ministers. The presence of the various countries and the large number of media that also attend the event (to be held in Sept. 1999) will be used by New Zealand to profile the many investment and trade opportunities which exist between it and other countries of the APEC region.
The Sydney Oyrnpics which take piace from 15 September to 1 October 2000 will also attract a large volume of visitors and media down under and while this is undoubtedly Australia's showcase event, there has been much interest in traveling on to New Zealand, and equally, NZ companies have participated in providing goods and services to assist in constructing the facilities required for the games.
While these major events will take centre stage in New Zealand as the millennium draws nearer there will be a host of other activities. Amongst them a millennium golf tournament and a multitude of celebrations planned to take place in ideal vantage points to see the first light of the new century.

MARKET DRIVEN

Two operators in New Zealand provide special facilities and vehicles to cater for the growing market of travelers with disabilities.
Accessible Kiwi Tours offers personal itineraries tailored to individual requirements. This includes regular sightseeing or outdoor activities such as rafting, jetboating or big game fish:ng. They have purpose-built vehicles for physical or sensory disabled travelers. Ph. 011 64 7 315 7867 or Fax 011 64 7 315 5056 for details.
Total Mobility Vacations caters for groups of up to 20 using a specially modified bus and provides accommodations with wheelchair access. Ph 011 64 3 479 2494 or Fax 011 64 3 477 0344 for details.
Travelers with special needs can find more information by contacting one of the New Zealand Federation of Disability Information Centers located throughout the country. The centers share a computer database, and network through a coordinated information and referral system. Ph 011 64 9 625 8069 or Fax 011 64 9 624 1633 for details.
NEW MARKETS - NEW PARTNERS

Looking for a comprehensive overview of the New Zealand economy? Insights into some of New Zealand's more successful exporting companies? A guide to tax rates, cost of living and other information of interest to anyone contemplating doing business or investing in New Zealand?
Tradenz has recently produced a CD-Rom entitled "New Markets, New Partners, New Zealand" which covers these topics and much more in a simple, easy to use format for both PC and Macintosh users.
Included in the CD-Rom is an overview of the New Zealand lifestyle, detail on the latest economic conditions, a review of typical business costs and the environment for manufacturers, access to other international markets, case studies of some of New Zealand's prominent companies and contacts for those seriously considering working or investing in New Zealand.
This fully inter-active CD is available for Windows 3.1, Windows 95 and Macintosh and can be obtained by contacting: Tradenz, 12400 Wilshire Blvd., #1120, Los Angeles CA 90025. Ph. 310-207-1145. Fax
310-207-4645.

MORE INTERNET SITES - from Tradenz

* Tradenz Home Page www.tradenz.govt.nz
* The New Zealand Way www.nzway.co.nz
* New Zealand Wines Online www.nzwine.com
* NZ Embassy, Washington www.emb.com/nzemb/
* NZ Government www.govt.nz

REGIONAL HOT SPOTS

The New Zealand National Agricultural Fieldays is the largest agricultural expo in the South Pacific.
In 1996 more than 130,000 visitors from 45 countries converged on Mystery Creek near Hamilton to view over 800 quality exhibits and watch national competitions covering fencing, tractor events and sheep dog trials.
For more information: Ph 011 64 7 843 4499, Fax 011 64 7 843 8572 or E-mail fielday@wave.co.nz

READERS - Please send in articles and letters for the next issue. I need them by May 1st. Thank you!

KIA ORA!
10