Volume XI, No. 3

MARCH 1999

TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN

(NZTB on the Web)

New Zealand has an abundance of great family-oriented attractions and activities. Here are a few suggestions:

NORTH ISLAND

In Northland take a walk in a forest of incredible, giant kauri trees. Take a day trip to Cape Reinga, where the bus travels along the sand on Ninety Mile Beach, and you can climb the huge sand dunes.

In Auckland, Kelly Tarlton's Underwater World and Antarctic Encounter includes a snowmobile ride to see the King Penguins and a fantastic aquarium. The Auckland Museum has a wonderful collection of Maori artifacts and fascinating, daily Maori cultural shows. The Auckland Zoo is a great place to see many of New Zealand's native animals and birds, including the Kiwi. Or take the kids to one of the islands in Auckland's Hauraki Gulf, like Rangitoto Island, a dormant volcano with tractor rides to the top.

At the Waitomo Glow-Worm Caves near Hamilton, take a boat ride through the underground caves lit by millions of glow-worms.

All over New Zealand, farmstays are marvellous experiences for kids. In Rotorua, farm shows at the Agrodome and Rainbow Farm include sheepshearing. sheep dogs and feeding lambs. Enjoy a traditional Maori hangi, feast and cultural show at a local marae (meeting house). Watch displays of weaving and carving at the New Zealand Maon Arts and Crafts Institute, and see boiling mud pools, geysers and steaming mineral baths. Then go for a dip in a mineral pool at the Polynesian Spa.

SOUTH ISLAND

In Christchurch ride the recently restored trains, or take the Christchurch Gondola up into the Port Hills. Visit the International Antarctic Centre, a fascinating exhibition of the Ice Continent, with plenty of interactive displays.

Go out whale watching on a boat in Kaikoura, where you can encounter dolphins.

seals and whales at close range.

Greymouth on the West Coast is where you will find Shantytown, a replica goldfield town, with steam train rides and gold panning.

Queenstown offers great family adventures, including exciting jethoat rides, the Skyline Gondola ride to Bob's Peak, skiing, horseback riding and hiking. Take a day trip to Milford Sound and journey beneath this glacier-cut fiord to the Underwater Observatory.

In Wanaka you can visit a puzzle theme park, Puzzling World, with a giant maze. In Dunedin, visit New Zealand's only castle, Larnach Castle. See the wildlife on Dunedin's Otago Peninsula, including the giant birds at the royal albatross colony, and the yellow-eyed penguins, the world's rarest.

AMERICA'S CUP

(November 1999 to February/early March 2000)

The America's Cup is yachting's most pres- tigious world trophy and is held every four years. Team New Zealand won the America's Cup from the Amencans at San Diego in 1995.

The New Zealand defence of the America's Cup by Team New Zealand will take place in Auckland from November 1999 to February/early March 2000. This will be the 30th America's Cup and only the second time it has been defended outside the United States.

The America's Cup regatta consists of two events. Firstly, there is the Louis Vuitton Cup, where through elimination races a challenger from the international challenging syndicates is selected to race against Team New Zealand. Secondly, this challenger races Team New Zealand in a final regatta for the America's Cup. Racing takes place over four months.

The base facilities will be located around the Viaduct Basin in Auckland's downtown/waterfront area. This area will be the focal point for teams and spectators similar to an Olympic Village.

Spectators will be able to go out and see the actual races from a fleet of charter boats. Racing will take place on the Hauraki Gulf between the East Coast Bays and Rangitoto Island.

The challenger series of races begins 25 October 1999. with the finals held 3-14 February 2000.

The first to win five races wins the Regatta. There will be no defender series as in previous regattas. The current defender, Team NZ, will simply compete against the winner of the challenger series. By the time a challenger is found to compete against Team NZ, they will have competed in over 80 races.

Participating countries include: the UK, France, USA, Hong Kong/China, Japan, Russia, Switz- erland. US Virgin Islands, Spain, Australia, and Italy.

TRAMPERS WARNED: BEWARE

THE DRUNKEN WASP (Marlborough Express)

The Marlborough wasp population brings bad news for those who enjoy the outdoors, particularly trampers.

Southern area manager of the Department of Conservation Roy (hose says this year has been a particularly good breeding year for wasps, with more of them than last year.

They are expected to continue to make their presence felt until late April.

With the number of wasps still around, people should take care when walking in forests, particularly beech forests. There, wasps steal the honey dew on which native birds feed, but the honey makes the wasps drunk.

Any vibration from trampers walking through the woods can dislodge the drunken wasps from their precarious perches and people can be stung on the legs or ankles. The wasp can get tangled in socks and sung several times.

Wasps sting differently from bees. While the bee stings only once, wasps can sting four or five times and plant venom each time.

This causes irritation in varying degrees to the victim.

Roy says some people get stung when they are eating at a picnic, and a sting in the throat can affect breathing to a dangerous degree.

If people react badly to wasp stings they should get antihistamine from their doctor or chemist, Roy says.

Roy says people who find wasp nests should deposit carbaryl or some other wasp poison at the entrance of the nest. The wasp carries it in,

so the poison spreads throughout the nest and kills the population nesting inside.

Roy says there is sometimes a need to give a second dose on larger nests, but usually one dose, following instructions, does the trick.

Meanwhile, wasp parasites continue to have an effect on the insects' numbers, but not to any measurable degree yet.

Parasites were added to the wasp population in Marlborough a few years ago. They take time to do their chosen task, but they are still working away at it, Roy says.

MID-LIFE ADVENTURES

The Best of New Zealand

The perfect adventure tour for the mid-30's to "young-at-heart" 60's who enjoy the outdoors, prefer the camaraderie of a small group (max. 16 people), want to travel to those special places unseen by large tours, and who are looking for a holiday with a difference.

Includes visits to five national parks and two maritime parks, sailing in Auckland, black water rafting; white water rafting; Maori hangi; farm tour; kayaking; scenic glacier flight and walk; and much more.

Note: Due to the strong US Dollar we are able to reduce all prices by 20%.

Call or write for free brochure. The Best of New Zealand, 800/528-6129. 2817 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica CA 90403. Fax: 310/829-9221.

WORLD CUP OF GOLF GAINS MOMENTUM

New Zealand has secured the right to host one of the world's most prestigious golf events. Tickets are due to go on public sale on 13 May for the 44' World Cup of Golf, to be held at Gulf Harbour, north of Auckland from 19-22 November 1999. Already interest is high in the event with large group bookings likely out of many countries.

Many of the world's most famous golfers will make their way to New Zealand to compete in the event, which will turn the eyes of the world onto New Zealand, leading up to the year 2000 events.

Tourism Minister Murray McCully says securing the event was a major coup for New Zealand and profiled the countiy's reputation as a top international sporting nation "The World Cup of Golf will be the first in an exciting senes of international events staged in New Zealand taking us through to the Millennium," he says.

Sixty-four golfers will represent 32 countries in the event that is golfing's equivalent of the Olympic Games. If selected, players such as world number one Greg Norman, South Africa's Ernie Els and New Zealand's Frank Nobilo could be competing to win the world title for their country.

The competition will be hot with the powerful American team looking to regain the title it lost to Ireland at Kiawah Island, South Carolina, in 1997.

The Americans have a host of top 20 players to choose from including Tiger Woods, David Duval, Jus- tin Leonard, Davis Love Ill, Mark O'Meara and Fred Couples. The South African team with a likely pairing of Ernie Els and Wayne Westner, the Scottish with Colin Montgomerie and Raymond Russell, and Aus- tralia with a possible appearance by Greg Norman, will also be strong competitors.

VISIT WAIRAU VALLEY WILDERNESS

By Denise Shaw

It's just 35 km from Blenheim, and a million miles from care. Wairau Valley is idyllic, sleepy (outwardly anyway), and everybody knows everybody else.

Driving up to the Valley from Blenheim, visitors should take the time to visit Barbara and Peter Grinter's NZ ALPACA & COUNTRY STORE. It's just 7 kms past Grove Mill Winery, turn left on Guernsey Road, open Wednesday to Sunday, 9am till 4pm. There are about 20 alpaca on the property and if you haven't introduced yourself to an alpaca before, don't miss this opportunity to handfeed some beautiful animals. The Country Store offers a full range of alpaca products, "from fleece to fashion", most produced here. There are cardigans, jackets, scarves, shawls, and even fur hats and jackets.

A little further up %Vest Coast Highway, turn right just 5 minutes east of Wairau Valley township, to LODDON farm where your hosts are Don and Jilly.

For your comfort, the farmhouse has large double rooms with ensuites. There is also a charming, freshly renovated, self-contained cottage. The atmosphere is relaxed and easy going. The outlook is over paddocks that stretch down to the river and across to the mountains. Loddon is also a riding centre and the guests are invited to meet the horses and ride if they wish.

Opposite Loddon Farm gate, is OKAPI OSTRICH FARM and if you ever wanted to get "up close and personal" with one of these fascinating birds, you've come to the right place (if you specifically want to see chicks, visit after November). Admission is absolutely free, and there's a perfect picnic spot down by the river,

OKAPI is owned by Transworld Ostrich Marketing Limited and on-site managers are Sean and Lisa Riley who will make you feel welcome. The farm is open weekdays between 9am and 4pm, all thy Saturdays, and till 2pm on Sundays. Large groups should phone ahead.

In the heart of Wairau Valley township is the renowned LEIGHVANDER COTTAGE. Owner Elsie Hall is just as charming as the olde woride goodies she makes and sells. Imagine 2 1/2 acres planted in over 100 varieties of lavender. . . bliss to the senses! The studio here is filled with delightful gifts and goodies from yesteryear, all "Marlborough grown and made". The scent of lavender is pleasantly overwhelming, and you will be intrigued by the seemingly endless versatility of this sought-after herb. All Visitors personally greeted by Elsie or her sister Susan. An essential stopover for all visitors to Marlborough.

Across the road is LANSDOWNE FARM PARK where the hospitality is truly country. Set on 180 acres with some grand old trees, sheep, cattle, cropping and hay, and breathtaking hilltop views where visitors can experience day-to-day farm life, feed the chooks, collect the ens, milk the house cow, and more.

Your hosts are Dave and Margaret Dillon who will ensure that your farm experience is a pleasant one.

Accommodation is comfortable and meals can be shared with the Dillon family if you wish. Lansdowne Farm Park. . . a totally rural experience in the heart of Wairau Valley.

Finally, after a long day enjoying all that Wairau Valley has to offer, you're going to need a long, refreshing drink and perhaps something good to eat. That's when it's time to visit the WAIRAU VALLEY TAVERN. It's been here for over 140 years; your hosts are Allan (Ferg) Fergusson and Marg Ruddle; and it's open seven days from 11am till late.

The tavern offers delicious meals, or there's a separate, smoke free dining room—otherwise the main room is lively and fun. Add the convenience of Eftpos and the tavern is a good place to spend a couple of hours. If you want to stay longer, there's a camping ground out back with all the facilities.

Wairau Valley.. . don't slow down . . stop awhile.

A NEW ZEALAND FIRST IN WINE TOURS

"As we were doing our research for the new wine tour, we found that Tailored Travel was breaking new ground" says Robert Panzer, Managing Director of Tailored Travel, New Zealand Custom Tours.

"Many of the owners, winemakers and managers we spoke to were impressed with our personal and inno- vative approach. Something they had not yet experienced with other companies."

As a result, Tailored Travel (based in Nelson, New Zealand) and The Wine and Travel Company (based in Toronto, Canada) can provide an exclusive, intimate and in depth tour, of which the tasting is small integral part of the whole concept. There is a balance between education, cultural experiences and scenery. The tours are about the people, the land and... their wines.

The 15 day "Wine Quest", which has monthly departures from Auckland in Feb., Mar., Apr., Oct., and Nov., covers both the North and South Islands of New Zealand. visits the major wine regions accompanied by expert guides and stays at historic homesteads, vineyard villas or other luxury accommodations.

Tailored Travel, Robert Panzer, Thorpe, RD 2, Wakefield (Nelson), NZ. Phone (64) 3-543-3825. Fax (64) 3-543-3640.

E-mail: Tailored@ts.co.nz

http://webnz.com/nzet

Or contact: Shawnna Brown, 300 Eglinton Ave. E. Ste 606, Toronto, Ont, Canada. Toll free: 1-888- KIWILND (888-549-4563).

KIWI ASTRONOMERS BACK TO

PLANET SEARCHING THIS YEAR

New Zealand astronomers who helped discover an Earth-size planet in the middle of the Milky Way will resume their search for more planets later this year.

The Kiwis have been working with Japanese astronomers and spotted the planet last July. They presented their findings at a recent meeting in the US.

Researcher Ian Bond says the planet is the right distance from the nearest star to sustain life and is around 30,000 light years away. He says the astronomers will lock for more extra-solar planets in April. There are at least 17 known planets outside the solar system—but few are believed to be capable of sustaining life.

NEW ZEALAND LITERARY SHRINE

by Judith Doyle

New Zealander Katherine Mansfield is recognised world-wide as one of the finest short-story writers in English Stories such as The Dolls House, Prelude, At the Bay and The Garden Party established her as an international leader of the genre.

Mansfield was born in 1888 in a little weather- board house in Thorndon, the first suburb of Wellington to be settled by Europeans. But for all its modesty, the house has become a focus for her literary admirers from round the world. And they are many.

While many writers go in and out of fashion, Mansfield's short stories have never been out of print since her death in 1923. Her stories are translated into at least 24 languages.

A recent British series on 10 key women writers in the English language put her alongside such writers as George Eliot, Charlotte Bronte and Elizabeth Barrett Browning.

She is studied in French, German, Swiss and Italian universities. In Japan her writing is studied in secondary school and university -- her biography by New Zealand writer Anthony Alpers has been translated into Japanese, as well as a biography by Dr. Nora Crone.

She is strong in the United States also. In fact, the holding of her work in Chicago is second only to that in New Zealand's National Library which is some 15 minutes walk from the Birthplace at 25 Tinakori Road, Thorndon.

Katherine Mansfield was born Kathleen Mansfield Beauchamp in this house, the family's first In Prelude she called it "that awful cubbyhole in town."

As her father climbed up in the banking world, the Beauchamps moved to larger houses. At 19, their restless daughter left for London and started making a literary name for herself. Her wild, bisexual life included a day-long marnage; a miscarriage of a pregnancy from another man; a long-standing relationship and marriage with Middleton Murry -- a well-known British man of letters, and finally an early death from tuberculosis.

But although she only spent her first five years in this little house, it is deeply imprinted on her memory. One quarter of all her stories are set in New Zealand, mostly in Wellington.

The exterior of the house is just as it was when she was born there. Even the garden has been planted with flowers appropriate to the Beauchamps' time.

Interior renovation and furnishing has been extremely arduous because of the tight time frame—the period from 1884 to 1894, but the 5000 visitors to the house per year are charmed by its human scale.

The ground floor includes an entrance hall; parlour; dining room; morning room; kitchen; bathroom; and pantry (one of her stories refers to a "birdcage of a pantry"). Upstairs there are five bedrooms.

During the renovation Mansfield's own stories were examined for hints on furnishing lighting and layout (the house was in two apartments when purchased.

A godson supplied a family tree so that descendants on both the Dyer (her mothers side) and the Beaucharnps could be located to help with memories and sometimes with mementos.

Most of the Dyer family lived in Australia (Katherine Mansfield's mother was born in Sydney) but many Beauchamp and some Dyer descendants are still in the Wellington region.

The room where Mansfield was born (recorded as the grandmother's room in The Aloe looks out the window towards the harbour. A cluster of harbour sheds have replaced the breakwater she wrote about and tall buildings stand where "her" band rotunda used to.

Instead of New Zealand birds in the "fern- filled gulley" of one of her stories there is the intermittent roar of a motorway, and her suspension bridge spanning the gulley is now a sleek motorway. bridge. But the harbour, that influenced her in all its moods, is still close.

And if you are there in one of Wellington's famous winds, think of her story A Birthday in which "A tremendous gust of wind sprang upon the house, seized it, shook it, dropped only to grip the more tightly. The waves swelled up along the breakwater and were whipped with broken foam. Over the white sky flew tattered streamers of grey cloud."

If you want to pursue Katherine Mansfield further, get the leatlet on "Katherine Mansfield's Wellington" published by the Wellington Committee of the New Zealand Historic Places Trust so that you can relate existing buildings and landmarks to references in her stories in a half-day drive round Wellington.

The leaflet is available from the Wellington City Information Centre, Civic Square (101 Wakefield Street), Wellington, NZ. Ph: 801 4000, Fax: 801 3030, or from Katherine Mansfield House, 25 Tinakori Road, Thomdon, Wellington.

RECONSTRUCTIVE SURGERY

By M.J. Pickering

New Zealand surgeons practically invented the

process of reconstructive surgery. Well, that's not quite true—there were many instances of reattaching noses and ears and such in Italy and India and a few other places. But the first world war resulted in plenty of cases to work on and by the time the second world war rolled around, a phenomenon called Airman's Burn where pilots who disobeyed

orders and removed their goggles and gloves due to the heat in their cockpits suffered extensive burns to their faces and hands when shot down, meant that skin grafting really took off.

In the time between the two World Wars there were four full time reconstructive surgeons. Three were New Zealanders (working in Bntain of course): Sir Harold Gillies was the first one and pioneered many of the techniques. Rainsford Mowlem was another, but the most famous was Sir Archibald Mclndoe who started the Guinea Pig club of his patients which some of you may have heard about. By the time of WW2 more pilots were surviving crashes due to better constructed planes, and penicillin ensured a greater survival rate, so there were more men for him to work on.

Gillies tended to work on the "cannon fodder" at the front in WWI. The Guinea Pig club still meets every year. Mclndoe was not only at the forefront of "holistic" medicine in that he treated his patients' minds and their trauma as well as their bodies. He wouldn't let them go back into service until he was sure their minds had recovered also. He was the one to make the connection between the recovery rate of burns victims who had fallen into the sea and the concept of saline baths for burns victims. Prior to that, an oil solution was used on their burns."

WEST COAST TRAMPING - Pacific Way

On a clear April day a man was walking through the thick rainforest, carefully picking his way among the podocarps and giant tree ferns. His shirt was torn from hacking through thorny West Coast bush and under a felt hat his grey hair was as shaggy as the fur of his sheepdog Betsey Jane. After a long day of track- cutting man and dog were heading for the camp under an overhanging rock.

The rock was large and its underside, sooted by infrequent campfires, formed a natural shelter. The floor was padded with ferns and mosses. Waiting for the billy to boil, the man sat puffing on a pipe and writing (with some rather odd spelling) in a diazy. He wrote: "The Flats of the Copland put a fellow in mind of old days; it is full of birds all tame and inquisitive as of old. The weka prowls round the tent, annexing anything portable and the kiwi make night hideous with its piercing shriek. The blue duck crosses over to whistle a welcome. The caw caw swears and the kea skirles, piegeons, tuis, saddle backs and thrushes hop about unmolested. The chorus of the bellbird is heard

in the dawning and all are tame and inquisitive." He was describing what would later become one of the greatest high-alpine tracks in New Zealand.

It was 1892 and the man was Charles Edward Douglas, a one-time clerk of the Commercial Bank of Scotland, Edinburgh. Douglas emigrated to New Zealand in search of "a large country to roam", After over a decade of roaming he became an official government explorer. The West Coast was his country. For the remaining 40 years of his life he never left the place.

Asfarbackasthe late 1800s, MountCook and Franz Josef on the West Coast were already becoming tourist attractions. The distance between them is only 30 km. but the craggy bulwark of the Main Divide formed an impassable barrier between them and finding a route across these mountains was one of the great challenges of that era.

Douglas was hired to find "a practicable route for a mule or horse track via Hooker Glacier and Baker Saddle". His first reports were promising, but soon after reaching the ne've' of Strauchon Glacier the prospective route came to an abrupt stop.

In his report back to the chief surveyor of the West Coast he wrote: "I am well aware that in many of the mountain regions of the earth, tracks are taken over the most irnpossable-looking canyons, along cliffs, under galleries and through tunnels. But how to take a track over a sloping icefield continually swept by avalanches is a puzzle unless the route is carried under ground..." (As already noted, spelling was not his strong point.)

The idea of a tourist route over the Baker Saddle was abandoned. But in 1896, using Douglas's sketches of the upper Copland Valley, Arthur Harper, an experienced mountaineer and the co-founder of the New Zealand Alpine Club, traversed tie high Copland Pass, south of Baker Saddle. The route was free of glacier ice and, although too steep for mules, it soon became a standard crossing between Mount Cook and the West Coast.

One sunny afternoon in late February 1993, my travel companion and I set out to follow Harper's footsteps across the Main Divide. The track leaves Mount Cook Village and leads towards the White Horse Hill, which is a large moraine.

It meanders through yellow-green alpine meadows, then climbs steeply to the side above the terminal lake of the Hooker Glacier, where miniature icebergs drift aimlessly in the water.

We reached the Hooker hut just as the pyramid peak of Mount Cock was catching the last of the setting sun.

setting sun. We watched the orange snowfields fading into black until the serrated mountain ranges had become a clear-cut silhouette against the sharp blue sky and the chill ushered us inside.

It is a 1000-metre climb from the Hooker hut to the top of the pass and we started early next day to avoid the midday sun. The track, narrowing to a scanty trail of stones polished by countless feet, traverses a wide rock gully and climbs up the steepening ridge. As we scrambled up towards the pass a mesmerising view of mountains unfolded around us.

Down below, the glacial lakes had shrunk into tiny splotches of turquoise while the mighty Hooker River was no more than a thin ribbon winding through sun-scorched grasslands.

Below the Copland Pass we rested in a barrel- shaped emergency shelter. Tied off with thick, steel ropes against frequent nor'wester and southerly gales, the shelter has been a blessing for trampers and climbers caught in a rapid weather change.

At the summit we had our first glimpse of the valleys of the West Coast and the Tasman Sea. Then the track descends to a rock gully which fans out into a wide scree slope. Miraculously, clumps of vibrantly yellow buttercups or tiny, white-petalled edeiweiss appeared, precariously rooted among unstable rock debris.

As we travelled along a rapidly descending ridge, we soon found ourselves among Alpine herb fields. Gentians, celmisias and snow marguerites blended into a thick, vividly colored carpet Further down, there was snow tussock dotted with clusters of hunangamoho and spiny branches of wild spaniards.

The next hut was called the Douglas Rock. The metallic moon glowed through the high branches of rata, miro and quintinia trees.

From there it was a delightful three-hour walk across the riverside grasslands to Welcome Flat, well known for the hot pools first discovered by Charles Douglas.

Here, water, heated to about 60 degrees Celsius, seeps from the fissures in the underlying rockbed. We soaked our tired bodies in the sulphurous, ochre-coloured pools. Across the river there was a fine view of the Sierra Range, which to Charles Douglas looked as "if some Giant with little skill and a very bad file had attempted to make a saw out of the mountains". We followed the hot bath with a dip in the icy Copland River; then we were ready for anything.

A Word in Your Ear

It is also possible to walk to the Welcome Flat hot pools from the West Coast Road (State Highway 6). The tramp takes five to six hours, through deep

rainforest and boulder-filled mountain creeks. There is a hut at the Flat equipped with a coal stove, cooking utensils and a radio.

Copland Pass can be travelled in both directions, although crossing east-to-west seems to be more favoured. The track is not technically difficult anywhere. but its alpine section is long and steep and the route is marked only by occasional cairns.

If you lack the basic mountaineenng experience, take a guide. They will provide necessary equipment and an excellent knowledge of local topography. Guiding rates for Copland Pass are very reasonable. especially for small groups. There are a number of operators on both ends of the track.

In summer the Copland Pass track is free of snow and ice except for snowfields near the saddle and offers a unique opportunity for venturing into the world of the high alps without the usual dangers of glacier travel.

TRAVEL DEALS

All American Travel Club

3657 Arnold Avenue

Naples, FL 34104

Ph. 941-261-3279

Fax 941-261-8746

E-mail: MAILTO:David@aatc.com

Our new pairing of "Tasnian" and "West" (Great Spotted Kiwi) also shows much promise for the coming season. This would have to be one of the quickest pairings I have witnessed amongst kiwi. After one day, they were sharing a burrow together. The Little Spots have also been re-paired.

Southern visitor: A temporary visitor to the Kiwi House early in September, was a Southern Giant Petrel—Macronectes g. giganteus. This bird was found suffering from exhaustion at Taharoa Beach by staff of BHP. Suspecting that it might be injured, the petrel was transferred to the Kiwi House. Once here, we were able to give this juvenile bird a thorough checkover, and other than an old wound to the area around the left eye, the bird appeared to be in good health. It certainly had a healthy appetite. Thankfully, it only remained here over the weekend before being returned to the coast and successfully released from the cliff tops at Kiritehere Beach.

The Southern Giant Petrel is the largest petrel in the world, with a wing span of around 2.5 metres, and weighing in at 4.5kgs. These birds are normally found in the southern oceans, but during the summer months will flock around the outfalls of freezing works and follow inshore fishing boats. Breeding occurs through the months of October to December. with the closest breeding colony being found on Macquarie Island. Many eggs and chicks die—bad weather kills them or heavy snow makes them easy prey for Skuas. Newly hatched chicks remain in the nest, being guarded by both parents for some 15 to 27 days. During the guard stage the chick is fed about once a day by one or both parents. After that it usually gets a meal every three to four days. Chicks attempt their first flight when they are about 118 days old.

Feeding occurs mainly at sea, as they scavenge around any large food source such as a dead whale. They will eat other seabirds, fish, krill, crustaceans and cephalopods. While at Otorohanga our juvenile made short work of chicken, ox hearts and fish.

While on the North Island be sure to visit the Kiwi House at Otorohanga. Public visiting hours: 9:30am to 5pm (June-August 9:30am to 4pm.) Open every day of the year except Christmas.

MORE FROM THE INTERNET

Lyndon Watson provides the following suggestions in response to someone saying they were spending all of their 3-month stay in the North Island:

"I must disagree here with those who say, 'Oh, no, forget the North Island and see the South instead.'"

"If you're only ever going to make one trip, then you should see the things that are 'most' peculiar to the country. Those must include, first and foremost, the Maori aspect of the country which is best seen in the North—at Rotorua, the Urewera and East Coast if you're really interested, and Northland, especially. The early colonial history of New Zealand is also best seen in the North, particularly in the Bay of Islands in Northland and the Land War sites in the Waikato and Bay of Plenty. As far as natural features are concerned, some that are most exotic to tourists (depends, I suppose, on where they come from) are also in the North—the Rotorua/Taupo/Bay of Plenty geothermal features, the Kauri forests of Northland, Mt. Egmont. By contrast, the South Island is mainly visited for its (admittedly grander) scenery and the historical remains in Central Otago. I think that the one-time visitor should try to cover the country, with the emphasis on the North Island, and only devote all of his time to the the South if grand scenery is all that he is interested in.

"If this is (hopefully) the first of many visits, then I think that a case can be made for a reasonably brisk trip over all of the country, arguably still putting the main emphasis on the North Island a sort of preliminary survey as it were. Let the first visit touch on the high tourist points and act as a sort of general survey of what the country has to offer; later visits can concentrate on what appeals most - once again the South Island if grand scenery is what you want to see.

"Three months seems to me to be ample for a general look at the country, even allowing for one or two extended stays at places that you particularly like. Spend, say, a week each at Rotorua and the Bay of Islands, a few days in Auckland and perhaps Wellington, another week in Central Otago using Quecnstown as a base, and the rest of the time just meandering around the country and lingering where you like.

"I would do a round trip around Northland, taking in the Bay of Islands, the bus trip to Cape Reinga and the drive down the west through the kauri forests, then head south from Auckland. Take it slowly' Spend a day driving the 70 miles to Hamilton, looking round Rangiriri, Ngaruawahia and so on. Spend another day meandering east to the Bay of Plenty and stop at Tauranga or Whakatane. Explore the eastern Bay. Spend a few days driving round East Cape and back through the Urewera and the pine forests to Rotorua. Then south to Taupo, do some fishing if you like, and take a side thpto the west to Taranaki. Spend a day driving right round Mt. Egmont Go back to the

centre and drive back north through the volcanic bush of National Park and across to Turangi. Then south along the Desert Road and through the North Island sheep country to Wanganui or Palmerston North before crossing through the Manawatu Gorge to the Wairarapa. Sample the local wines and drive (withcare) across the ranges to Wellington.

"Then, at last, take the slow ferry to Picton and start on the South..."

'KIWISPEAK' HAS THEM RATTLED

Newzgram asked some of its readers in over 100 countries to list the New Zealand words that caused them the most problems.

Good as' gold was rated the most troublesome by a speech pathologist in Texas. She said the phrase is only used in the United States after something has been repaired Even if Americans figure out what the Kiwi version means, they are unsure how to respond - whether to smile or say thank you.

It's your shout. . . . had audiences flummoxed from the Netherlands to the United States, and rattle your dags caused problems for a New Zealand woman living in Malaysia.

A land surveyor working in Bahrain had trouble making the locals understand he was crook (ill), and the word rubber (meaning eraser) caused problems for a Kiwi writer in the United States. To Americans, a rubber is a contraceptive.

Swimming togs and primary school caused difficulties for a New Zealander in Japan, while a teacher in the same country said locals made fun of the way Kiwis said today.

A software engineer in the United States said "Americans love Kiwispeak," particularly words like paddock, footpath (car), boot, bonnet, motorway, nappy and serviette.

New Zealanders are used to Australians having them on about the way they pronounce vowels, particularly a, e and i. Several readers said that if a Kiwi ordered six fish and chips across the Tasman, it would be taken as sex fush and chups. A retired nurse in Australia said her accent was the subject of much mirth because her street address contained one six and her phone number two sixes.

Another retired Kiwi living in Australia listed section (for block of land), face cloth (washer), chilly bin (Esky) and swimming togs (bathers) as problem words.

Vowels also caused headaches for a NZ information technology consultant in the UK, who said the pronunciation of her name Karen — "really throws" the British.

But a NZ English teacher in Switzerland concluded that there were no problems: "We Kiwis speak proper," she said

DRUNKEN EXPRESSIONS (The Listener)

The Inuits have 40 words for snow. The Australians, according to their own Good Weekend magazine, lead the world in synonyms for throwing up, spewing and talking on the big white telephone. And

it's shurely shome mishtake, but New Zealanders are credited with keeping alive a huge range of expressions for being drunk. Ten of the best:

*spifflicated

*blotto

*plastered as a base commander's home

*paralytic

*trolleyed

*off her tits

*stonkered

*full as a public hospital

*full as a bull

*off his face

LETTER BOX

I enjoy KIWlphile FILE tremendously' Thanks

for keeping it going.

Marlene, Colorado

After "doing" Australia, we tried to see and do

1/2 of New Zealand, also by driving the left side of the road and by staying with families at bed and

breakfasts. We saw fiords, glaciers, farms and ranches, east and west coasts of the New Zealand Pacific Ocean, and the "jumping off" place for South Pole expeditions. Thermals similar to those in Yellowstone were in Rotorua. Tom had to get his "bungy jumping" out of the way at 10 AM on June 17 at the original bungy jumping capital of the world, Queenstown. He missed getting a "freebie" by a year and a half. Persons 60 and above could jump free. He has the video to prove it, and Marge took a few pictures while she laughed at his bouncing up and down... up and down... up and down!

Tom & Marge Pressley, California

On the Australia-New Zealand trip: We will take a pretrip leaving on October 13th to Auckland, then to Cbristchurch, spend until the 21st on the South Island, fly back up to Auckland and meet up with the basic group and spend until the 25th on the North Island. Then we fly from Auckland to Melbourne and will be in Australia until Nov. 1st.

THEN when some fly home, the rest of us will fly up to Cairns and be there until November 7th and then fly home. SO it is quite a lengthy trip—almost 21 days—but SO great! Cost will be about $5150 for the whole thing, but people can take just the basic tour which is $3150 from LA!! I am excited about it all.

pim Dodge

(Editor: You may contact pim [Travel writer, Host and Speaker] at P.O. Box 769, Frankfort Ml 49635, Tel. 616-352-6013. Or by e-mail: pimd@benzie.com (pim Dodge. There will be more on the upcoming trip in the June issue of K.F.).

BITS AND PIECES

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A United States survey has found that New

Zealand has more Internet-connected computers per head of population than anywhere else in the world. Wellington has the most in New Zealand, making it the most networked city in the world. For every 100,000 people, New Zealand has 4,702 computers connected to the Internet.

•

CLASSIC DOUGLAS DC-3 NEW ZEALAND

EXPEDITION - 10 days, from $5,650 per person Relive the romantic era of travel aboard the retrofitted DC-3 airliner while seeing the very best of New Zealand. 1-800-529-9927.

•

In New Zealand scientists and animal lovers have

teamed up to urge the government to give great apes the same rights as humans. "There is now a mountain of evidence," said Dr. David Penny of Massey University, "that great apes are as intelligent as young children and very similar in their emotional and cognitive development."

•

Superior Inns of New Zealand is a fold-out flyer

with photos and descriptions of 25 of the country's fmest B&B's. Prices, per room accommodating two persons, start at $50. For a free copy contact the New Zealand Tourist Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd.,. Suite 300, Santa Monica, CA 90401; Tel: (310)395-7480;

Website:http://nz.com/webnz/bbnz/superior.htm

READERS: PLEASE SEND IN YOUR STORIES AND LETTERS. ALL WILL BE APPRECIATED.

FIRST LIGHT OF THE MILLENNIUM

(from International Travel News)

Travel columns and advertisements have been replete recently with details of sundzy offerings for voyages to greet the advent of the year 2000. Among them is an advertising pamphlet from Zegrahm Expeditions for what we believe to be one of the most unique high-adventure cruises for those with

the means and tune for a true adventure to the bottom of the world.

It is an extensive cruise journey of 29 days to

Antarctica, departing from Christchurch, New Zealand, on Dec. 12, 1999. and terminating at Hobait, Tasmania, on Jan. 9, 2000.

The 29 days mentioned include two days for air connections from Los Angeles to Christchurch and return from Hobart to Los Angeles.

Prices range from $19980 to $33,980 per person on a double-occupancy basis. As always, we recommend careful scrutiny of all a the fine print in the brochures and the purchase of travel insurance.

Your local travel agent should be able to get you all informational matenal, answer your questions and handle booking details. A. brochure could also be obtained by writing Zegrahm Expeditions, 1414 Dexter Ave. N., Ste. 327, Seattle, WA 98109, or phoning 206/285-4O0O.

(You can get a free sample copy of International Travel News. ITN, 2120 28th St., Sacramento CA 95818).

OVERSEAS FELONS HIDE OUT IN NZ

New Zealand police are pushing for a law change so foreign criminals can be extradited from the country.

Up to one-hundred of these people wanted on serious sex and violence charges are on the run in New Zealand.

Apparently it is legally easier to dispatch people wanted in Australia than to any other country. In recent months four men wanted in Australia for sexual abuse crimes have been nabbed. Two have been returned to Australia Two cases are still pending.

In the last three years the police have sent home about 35 Australians hiding in NZ. New Zealand is close, cheap to get to, has the same language and culture, and some of the felons have relatives living in the country.

Wellington-based Interpol head Greg Allen assures New Zealanders that the problem is not so bad that they should be frightened. Police Association president Greg O'Connor said about the felons: "New Zealand has a clean, green, crime-free image, and I suppose most of them don't think we would have an efficient police force tapped into the rest of the world.

The French who bombed the Rainbow Wamor thought that and they soon found otherwise."

New Zealand police, Mr. O'Connor said, were more efficient than their Australian colleagues. The New Zealand police force kept in close touch with overseas police and was highly effective, he said.

FROM FRAGILE EDEN

By Robin Hanbury-Tenison

Another marvellous New Zealand writer, Maurice Shadbolt, describes the national character as follows:

"Outside his country the Kiwi may seem shy, rather reserved, but this is easily explained. People from a frontier society, with little artifice, and even less conceit, go very naked in the world. It's not simply a question of manners; it is also a question of speech.

The only words he knows may be too blunt. So he's careful.

"And, outside New Zealand, it's likely that you'll only get the Kiwi talking vigorously on one subject — his own country. may sometimes speak with contempt or distaste, but like a lover talking of an unfaithful mistress. For nostalgia will probably come welling through his speech. New Zealand sends many such into the world, and most return. The human Kiwi, like the bird itselt is not built for exile. He withers internally, rows old too soon. For his tragedy is that he can abandon his country yet not forget it; his country refuses to abandon bun. It haunt.s him, as one poet put it, like a debt unpaid, a love betrayed. As it did Katherine Mansfield, who, after rejecting it, yearned to make her undiscovered country leap into the imagination of the old world.

"Yet, on his native earth, he loses his diffidence. Here he is sure of himself; this, after all, is the land he has mastered. He defends it hotly against criticism, resists intrusion, is often suspicious of foreigners. But, underneath, it's still the same Kiwi speaking a man uncertain of himself, an Adam unsure of his Eden."

(Editor: Anyone who loves New Zealand should read Fragile Eden, published by Arrow Books).