Volume XII, No.3

MARCH 2000

AIR NEW ZEALAND BARGAINS

Air New Zealand is offering you the opportunity to save up to 44% with fares to Fiji, Auckland and Sydney.

If you purchase tickets before May 31, 2000 you can fly non-stop from Los Angeles to Fiji for $599, non-stop to Auckland for $699, and non-stop to Sydney for $799. Add-on fares are also available from other cities within the United States.

The travel dates are between April 17 and August 23. There is a minimum stay of seven days with a maximum of 30 days allowed. No stopovers are permitted, and all fares are subject to change without notice and other restrictions may apply.

For reservations and additional information, contact Air New Zealand at www.aimz.com or (800) 262-1234.

NEW US AMBASSADOR TO NEW ZEALAND

U.S. Vice President Al Gore says America's new ambassador to New Zealand is well suited to the country. Carol Mosley-Braun has been sworn in at a ceremony in Washington. She departed for New Zealand. . . or "paradise" as she calls it. Al Gore, who presided over the swearing-in ceremony, said Ms Mosley-Braun is a wonderful representative for America. He said the black former senator is also a brilliant match for New Zealand because the country was one of the first nations to grant the vote to everyone, regardless of race or gender.

GREYMOUTH VISITOR INFO CENTRE

We can help you plan your visit to the West Coast—especially to the Grey District—or further afield to other parts of New Zealand. Just let us know where you want to go and what you want to see and we'll help you achieve your goals.

Our staff can help plan your itinerary and make all your reservations. We have the local knowledge and contacts to help you get the most from your visit to this part of the world.

Just complete the Online Enquiry Form and we'll get back to you with the information and bookings you request.

And don't forget to come and visit our Visitor Centre when you are in Greymouth. Open 7 days a week. Corner Herbert and Mackay Streets, Greymouth.

Phone: 03 768 5101 or fax 03 768 0317. Website:

http://www.westcoastbookings.co.nz/

CHUCK'S '98 ODYSSEY - Part 1

Charles Eggen (all rights reserved)

Friday, April 19, 1998—Day 1

Checked in at the Eugene, Oregon airport for the first leg of my third trip to New Zealand, with two bags—one carry-on and one checked. The checked one is tagged for Auckland. Boarded the plane (United to L.A.), which taxied for takeoff.

Waiting ______________

Captain announces that the wing fuel tank balance valve indicates a malfunction. We taxi back to the terminal to have it checked. Valve cannot be fixed and must be replaced and no replacement is in Eugene. We must wait for a replacement valve to be flown up from San Francisco. We are told to de-plane back into the terminal and await further instructions.

Approximately 30 minutes later we are told to check back at the gate. There we find that we will be boarding a "commandeered" northbound flight and using it to get to San Francisco. Of course our checked baggage will be transferred. Right.

We finally leave Eugene over an hour late and, of course, I miss my scheduled connecting flight from San Francisco to Los Angeles (I have no idea what fate occurred to the poor souls who were taken off their northbound flight).

With a bit of good fortune, I am put on a commuter flight to Los Angeles. We taxi for take-off.

Waiting__________________________

We wait 30 minutes on the taxiway. We finally take off and arrive in Los Angeles 30 minutes before my scheduled Air New Zealand flight, which is in another area of the vast airport. I have no idea what might be happening to my checked bag. I run through the airport to arrive too late to catch my scheduled flight. A bit of luck, however.

Another flight has been added due to a group of transferring Germans. I have made it to an Auckland- bound flight and I have no idea where my checked bag may be, and frankly, Scarlet, I don't give a damn.

The 12-hour flight was basically non-eventful. Good food and the movie was "Good Will Hunting", which I had not yet seen.

Sunday - 19 April - Day 2. We arrive in Auckland about 6am, local time, and go to the baggage claim area for a wasted 20+ minutes, since there was no chance my checked bag was going to come down that chute. After filling out the missing bag forms, I proceed out to meet up with Jim Sharp, a SCNZ (Internet Newsgroup - Society and Culture New Zealand) who has offered to pick me up and take me downtown after breakfast with his family in Papatoetoe. A wonderful example of New Zealand hospitality and the first memorable experience of the day. Later I arrive at Auckland Central Backpackers on Fort Street to make contact with Lin Nah before my lunch with Edwin Carr on Waiheke Island.

Auckland Central BP does not have my reservation although they say "no problem", they have a single room available (I snore) as requested. I take key to assigned room—it doesn't work. I go back to the counter. They give me the key to another room— Success! I reach Lin by phone and we set a time for dinner this evening, as well as Wednesday evening, when we will get together with other SCNZ people.

I go next door to Auckland Central Travel office to clear up the backpacker prepayment and pick up my in-country travel tickets, vouchers and accommodation reservations. They do not have a voucher for the backpacker prepayment. This I'm prepared for. I have brought a copy of my MasterCard statement showing the pre-payment. The "twit" at the backpacker counter will not accept anything but a voucher. The matter is eventually straightened out by a phone call to the manager at his home.

I take the noon ferry to Waiheke Island and am met by Edwin Carr who takes me to his home for a wonderful afternoon of conversation about Waiheke and the New Zealand classical music scene.

Not only that, but he has cooked up a roast with local vegetables for lunch. I return on the 5pm ferry and find that my missing bag has been delivered to the Backpacker as requested. The bag has been where I have not— Sydney, Australia.

Lin and Simon pick me up for a very enjoyable Thai/Malay dinner at the Monsoon Restaurant in Devonport. We follow that up with coffee and cake at the Open Late Café in Ponsonby. At this time, with good conversation and food, and having not really slept for two days, I am looking forward to a good sleep. This is not to be, as partying and street noise occupies most of the night.

Monday - 20 April — Day 3 I am scheduled to go on the Te Aroha for my Hauraki Gulf islands adventure at 10am. I was scheduled to stay at Auckland Central Backpackers Wednesday evening after my island trip, but I decide that is going to change. I go to Aspen Lodge, which I wanted to try out on my last visit, to see if they have a single for Wednesday, and luck out.

I can recommend Aspen as a reasonably priced if somewhat aged bed and breakfast facility that is very conveniently located in downtown Auckland. I dash over to the Backpackers to check out and retrieve my bags. Aspen agrees to let me store one bag there that I do not need on the boat. I rush to the dock and arriving on the boat, begin to truly relax. My schedule is essentially set for the next 54+ hours, and there is little to do but enjoy the trip, and I do, with some unintended changes—but that will need to wait for another time.

LEMON AND PAEROA - (from New Zealand! New Zealand! In Praise of Kiwiana)

American culture has always found a ready market in New Zealand. Despite our Traditional English ties we have kept one eye on developments on the furthest shores of the Pacific. In the 1 9th Century we shared a free trade in goldminers, bringing, among other things, Levi Strauss jeans to this country. The American building industry took our kauri, and when that had run out we took their oregon (pine). Then, after the First World War the Californian bungalow arrived via Australia to become the national home.

During the next war we were hosts to American servicemen, and a further up-date of their culture. While these GIs didn't exactly introduce coffee or chewing gum, for example, they did raise our awareness of things American.

The most successful US export has been Coca-Cola. Intriguingly, when this beverage first appeared in Atlanta, Georgia—in 1886—

it is possible that New Zealand had just invented its own classic drink.

High achievers often have humble origins, and Lemon & Paeroa is no exception. It began in a cow paddock where Paeroa residents discovered a spring that provided a refreshing drink. Some folk, well ahead of their time, were even given to adding a slice or two of lemon to the water for flavour. Then, inevitably, big business got in on the act and the Paeroa National Mineral Water Company began a bottling operation.

At first the beverage was seen more as a ther- apy than a thirst-quencher, a popular attitude supported by the government balneologist in 1904. Dr. Arthur E. Wollman's official analysis described the "mild alkaline akalybeate water containing a somewhat large proportion of magnesium carbonate" as valuable for medicinal purposes—but not much else. He saw it as table water but wasn't sure anyone would go to the expense of bottling it. Such was the consumption of tea in New Zealand in 1904 that Wollman saw no future for any alternative drink.

Nevertheless, in 1907 Menzies & Co., who already had aerated cordial factories at Te Aroha, Waihi, Hamilton and Thames, took the plunge and purchased the Paeroa company. At first the new owners simply packaged the natural water, but soon, no doubt on local advice, began adding lemon. The company merged to become Grey & Menzies and in 1909 was shipping wooden casks of the water to its Auckland factory. There it was flavoured and bottled for distribution to an expanding market.

By the early 1 960s the majority of the country's hotels were owned by the two large breweries, Dominion and New Zealand. But L. D. Nathan Ltd also had hotels and, to ensure a supply of their life-blood, bought a brewery of their own, the Waikato Brewery. This had been owned by C. L. Innes Ltd. The latter had merged with L&P's bottlers Grey and Menzies in 1963 to form Innes Tartan Ltd.

The 1964 sale of Innes to Nathan's gave L&P international stable-mates in Coca-Cola and Schweppes and Nathan's established the giant Oasis bottling complex at Mt. Wellington in Auckland to manufacture the trio of soft drinks. The story is a familiar one—the centralisation of industry. Whereas small bottlers had once catered to local demands, monopolies now dictated. Big rigs could deliver Oasis products deep into the heartland, displacing local filling lines. Fanta, for example, was introduced to New Zealand by Pike and Waters Ltd of New Plymouth about 1960, an event marked by the distribution of a truck-load of

free samples around Mt. Egmont. Nowadays. all Taranaki's soft drinks are trucked in from Auckland.

There is, of course, no disputing the nation's favourite soft drink. Nevertheless, while Coke continues to top the sales charts, Lemon & Paeroa accounts for 6 percent of the market, well over 8 million bottles per year.

What Schlitz beer has done for Milwaukee, a soft drink is still doing for Paeroa. In recognition, there stands at the intersection of State Highways 2 and 26 the town's most famous feature, and possibly the biggest "bottle" in the world. The bottle is a 7-metre tall monument to the nation's most durable home- grown soft drink, "the highest achievement of the mineral bottler's art".

(Editor: I suggest you don't miss out on LAP on your next visit to NZ. I waited 16 years to tzy it and was surprised at how delicious and refreshing it is. I wish we could buy it here in the US).

NEW ZEALANDERS ARE 'THE FRIENDLIEST'

- Ann and Bill Logan, Kentucky

Our trip was planned with the help of Home at First (1-800-523-5842) which is operated by Judi and Ron Fahnestock. We thought they did a wonderful job and were very happy with everything. We were accompanied on this trip by another couple, friends with whom we had traveled before. We were lucky on the weather. It was spring and we had sunny, warm days all the way except one day of rain while we were driving from TeAnau to Lake Tekapo.

We left Louisville, KY at 11am on 11-11-98 and arrived in Auckland via L.A. at 6am on 11-13. Our B&B was very nice and we took a 1/2 day city tour which was quite good. Lunched and walked around some but back for a rest and dinner and early bed. We took very small dosages of Melatonin. We thought it helped a lot.

Next morning we took the ferry to Waiheke Island. Our B&B was called Giverny and was lovely. Took the wine tour which lasted till about 5 with a break of 45 minutes for lunch at Oneroa. Had dinner at Blanchys, who picked us up and delivered us back in a courtesy car. Very good meal. Caught the ferry back to the mainland to visit Kelly Tariton's Underwater World and the Maritime Museum before returning to the island. Dinner that night was at the Mudbrick winery— very good fish.

After breakfast the next morning, we returned to the mainland and picked up a rental car and drove to Kerikeri, and our B&B was Villa Maria—excellent. Our hostesses were Belgian and very friendly. Dinner at the Gourmandise Restaurant—good. Next day we visited Waitangi

Preserve where the treaty was signed between the Maoris and British. Also stopped at Rewa's village, a typical Maori village. Played tennis that afternoon on a local court. Dinner that night at Gecko's which was a simple, very good meal.

We drove next to Rotorua. This was a long drive and we would consider visiting the Coromandel Peninsula instead of Bay of Islands next time. About this time we noted in the diary that the peace, quiet and beauty of the country is marvelous. During our 2 days there we visited the Agrodome for their sheep show (touristy but fun), Waitanga for the bubbling springs and lakes of hot, sulphurous water, and the Tamaki hangi at the Maori village, also touristy but interesting, and the dinner was excellent.

On to Waikanae for an overnight before catching the ferry from Wellington to the South Island. On the way we stopped at Huka Falls and drove by Tongariro National Park with its 3 volcanoes. Turned our car in at the ferry dock and ferried across, picked up another car and motored on to Nelson. Stayed at the Cathedral Inn in large comfortable rooms. We liked Nelson very much. Next day we drove to Richmond (a short distance) to attend the A&P Show (Agriculture and Produce) which was much like a county fair in Kentucky.

Our next stop was the only one we would change. We drove to Greymouth (a very short drive) where we were scheduled to stay because the next stop was fully booked for that night. Stopped at the Pancake Rocks, a spectacular formation, on the way. Nothing much to do in Greymouth.

Hari Hari was our next stop and the B&B was an elk farm. Had a wagon ride out to see and feed the elk, and the dinner that evening was outstanding. They served us a farm dinner consisting of soup, garlic bread, sausages, fish, mussels, sweet potatoes, mashed white potatoes, mashed rice, broccoli, peas, beans and pavlova (like meringue) for dessert. Since it was so near Greymouth we had time that morning to drive to Franz Joseph and take the helicopter ride and land on the glacier—A MUST DO!

Our next stop was our favorite town, Queenstown. The drive down was beautiful with fantastic views, one after the other. Stayed at Queenstown House with a very laid-back hostess Louise, who served appetizers and wine on the patio each evening for all the guests. We recommend Queenstown House highly. There are 8 guest rooms so we got to meet other travelers. We were there 3 nights during which time we visited Arrowtown nearby, a community established back during the gold rush time, watched bungee jumping where it was started,

played tennis, and drove to Glenorchy for the scenery on the way. Ann went parasailing while the rest of us watched.

TeAnau was our next stop and we stayed at the Cat's Whiskers for 3 nights. Our best dinner there was at the Red Cliff Café. One day we went to Manapouri and caught a tour by boats and bus to Doubtful Sound. It was an 8 hour trip and we saw fur seals, a penguin. and visited the underground power station. We all agreed that was too long a day. Another day we drove to Milford Sound. The drive was spectacular with waterfalls and steep cliffs. We stopped at Mirror Lake, the Chasm, and Lake Gunn for a nature walk that is another DON'T MISS!

Drove today to Lake Tekapo where we stayed at Creel House. This was our one day of rain and it was nice enough to stop for our picnic lunch. The next day it was on to Christchurch for a 2 night stay at Villa Victoria. Drove to Akaroa the next day. On the way we took the Summit Road—not our favorite! It was long, slow, winding, white-knuckle driving, and we wouldn't recommend it. The town was a pleasant little French town and the drive back on the regular route was much better.

The next day was our departure day and we toured the Botanical Gardens downtown before going to the airport. The gardens were worth a visit. Visited the Antarctic Center at the airport—maybe we were "looked-out", but wouldn't particularly recommend it.

We both agree that the people of New Zealand are the friendliest we have encountered anywhere. All the hosts and hostesses at the homestays went out of their way to be helpful, and the breakfasts were absolutely gourmet!

All in all, a fantastic 3 weeks. Don't miss it. We hope to return to that wonderful country!

READERS — PLEASE SEND IN YOUR STORIES AND LETTERS FOR THE NEXT ISSUE OF K.F.

THANKS.

STEWART ISLAND REVISITED

— Judy Miller, Alaska

Those of you who have read my book "Kiwi Tales", already know about my less than brilliant first trip to Stewart Island. Since that time my friend Lynne Gibson from Oamaru, South Island, has been telling me what a beautiful and special place the island really is and trying to arrange a return trip. This past July (yes in winter) we finally made that trip.

Lynne, Cathy (my friend and travel partner) and I spent a couple of days in Invercargill with Lynne's daughter waiting for the weather to clear, and once it did, decided to take the Foveaux Express Catamaran rather than fly. We left Bluff on the last boat of the day, about 4:00pm. These modern, stable craft make the crossing in one hour as opposed to the three hours required in a conventional vessel. The trip was still extremely rough as we had high winds and tides, but we were very comfortable, and you can tolerate just about anything for an hour. Besides we had all nearly overdosed on seasick pills just in case.

There are new modern, warm and dry waiting areas on both the Stewart Island and Bluff sides. Your car can be left at the Bluff terminal. Just take the keys inside and it will be parked, in a locked area, for the duration of your stay on Stewart Island at a cost of NZ$5.00 per day.

We were the only three passengers on a 100 passenger vessel, so felt pretty special as the crew outnumbered us. We didn't do any walking around due to the rough seas, but the catamaran is outfitted with toilets and a snack bar. The captain radioed ahead to let them know we needed transportation to our accommo- dation, and the van was waiting for us when we disembarked. As we pulled up to the Shearwater Inn we asked the driver if there were many tourists on the island. "Yes", he replied, "three". From that time on we were the "three ladies". "Oh, you're the three ladies that wanted breakfast". "You must be the three ladies that are going fishing this morning". "Are you the three ladies who scheduled the Gum Boot Theatre?" It is a very small island.

I won't tell you the weather was perfect. What I will tell you is that it was good enough to do some fishing without freezing to death or getting soaked. It was good enough to enjoy walking around town to the few shops, museum, and the Department of Conservation Headquarters. It was good enough to make me want to go back again.

The one thing we specifically wanted to do was fish. We contacted the Stewart Island Adventure Center (located in the same building as the ferry terminal), and they were able to find a captain to take us out even though it was winter. Summer is the island's busy season but trips can generally be set up any time of year.

I can't remember ever having a better time fishing. We got to the dock early and I started looking for a fancy fishing boat with poles poking high into the air. I peered over the side and there sat a little 12 meter (roughly) fishing boat with not a pole in site.

There were only five of us plus our Captain John and his son who made us feel right at home and like we were on a family outing

We ran out across the harbour and into Pattersen Inlet before he killed the engine and without even dropping an anchor started dragging out the fishing gear. This was stowed in a large box on the back of the boat and consisted of 3 thick nylon cords each outfitted with a 1 pound lead sinker and five large hooks which were baited and thrown over the side, sinking until they touched bottom. There they sat until we felt a nibble, at which time they were hauled hand over hand as quickly as possible back into the boat. The fish were pretty hungry so there was lots of hauling in and water flying everywhere, but by the time we got the line back on board, the fish had had their meal and we had to re-bait and drop line again.

For a while it looked like the fish were winning, but slowly our fish box filled with beautiful blue cod. When the action slowed, Captain John would move us to a different location and we repeated the process. He tried to keep us in sheltered places as the wind was sharp in the exposed areas of the inlet. While we fished, John's son filleted our catch and by the time we tied up at the wharf on Ulva Island, the freshest cod you will ever eat was cooking on the small gas burner in the galley. Fish will never again taste as good as what we enjoyed that day.

Following lunch we started out for a walking tour of this pristine nature reserve with Captain John pointing out sites of interest, flora and fauna. A small, flightless (and I might add fearless) weka followed us on our trek occasionally pecking at our pant legs hoping for a handout. The walk was easy enough for almost anyone, and John was very happy to lend a hand if necessary.

What was booked as a four-hour fishing trip turned into a 5 1/2 hour adventure for an amazing NZ$40 per person. You would be hard pressed to replicate the experience we had anywhere. We were hooked!

There really is a lot to do on the island and probably the best place to start if you do plan to visit is with the visitors' center and the adventure center. The island can be reached by catamaran or by air and the weather will probably determine which mode you use.

There are a variety of accommodations. The Shearwater Inn caters primarily to backpackers but is clean and convenient. Toilets and showers are at the end of the sleeping blocks and you have to go outside your room and down the walkway to get to them and they are not heated. This can be pretty cold business at most times of the year.

There is a large lounge with pool table, piano, fireplace and tv as well as a filly equipped kitchen. We paid $25 per night per person. The next time, however, we decided we would stay at the South Seas Hotel. This historic old building stands at the water's edge overlooking Oban Harbor and is the hub of activity with a pub and the only real dining room in town. We took all our meals there and were treated royally. The rooms are old fashioned and comfortable, and while you still have to go down the hall to the showers and toilets, they are heated and you do not have to go outside to get to them. They are also in the process of building another block of rooms behind the hotel that will have ensuites. The room we looked at with a sea view was NZ$95 for two people. There are also cabins to rent and several bed and breakfasts.

We took all our meals at the South Seas dining room. After finishing dinner the first evening we let the hostess know that we would be in for breakfast and at what time, and then at each meal thereafter would just let her know what time we would be back. You can get a cold breakfast of cereals, toast, juices, etc., or a full cooked breakfast with bangers, eggs, toast, potatoes, etc. We asked for porridge one cold morning and were served heaping bowls with brown sugar and cream almost thick enough to cut with a knife. It didn't do much for our arteries but our stomachs were happy. The fish is the specialty, however, and although you can get more expensive items, my favorite is the blue cod. In fact everything we got was tasty and not overly expensive.

I suppose it goes without saying that this is not a shopping mecca. The one exception we found was the Fernery, with lovely arts and crafts. It is a short walk up the hill from town and worth the effort. Outdoor activities are practically unlimited: Hunting, fishing, hiking, boating you name it. Again, contact the adventure center located in the same building as the ferry terminal. Even if you go in the off season most activities can be arranged on a "demand" basis.

Right in the center of town you will find the Gumboot Theater. Billed as the smallest theater in New Zealand, painted a hideous pink color and covered with every description of gumboot imaginable, it is the home of "A Day In the Life of Stewart Island", a one-woman show presented with a great deal of vigor and humor. A show can be arranged on the spur of the moment provided there are at least six people who want to attend. Just let it be known about town that you are interested, and chances are someone else has expressed an interest, too, and the next thing you know. . . .instant theater. DON'T MISS IT!

Our fishing trip was very special and personal. and I would highly recommend it to anyone. If you would like a fishing trip that is a little more upmarket, it is easily arranged, particularly during the summer months. For a look around the island and rundown on local lore and history, contact Sam and his aging bus Billy. Anyone in town can tell you where to find him. There seems to be something for everyone on this small island.

CATCH OF THE DAY (from Weekly Reader)

It may sound like a movie thriller, but the invasion of the giant squid is a real-life mystery in New Zealand. A record number of squid have washed up on shores or have been caught in fishing nets around the country, and scientists can't understand why.

Over the past 20 years, only 50 giant squid— which can grow to be 60 feet long—had been stranded or accidentally snared in nets. But within the last year, 23 of the creatures have been found. Unfortunately, the shock of being caught in a net or washed ashore kills a giant squid. Scientists are studying the squid to learn more about them.

Some giant squid have eyes as large as dinner plates and highly-developed brains (useful if you have to control eight arms and two tentacles). Scientists believe giant squid live more than 4,500 feet beneath the ocean's surftce, which explains why researchers have never been able to study a giant squid in its natural habitat.

ALL BLACKS HAKA

For most non-Maori New Zealanders today their knowledge of Haka is perhaps limited to that most performed of Haka called "Ka mate, Ka mate". Many sports teams and individuals traveling from Aotearoa overseas tend to have the haka "Ka mate" as part of their programme.

Perhaps the sports team that has given the haka the greatest exposure overseas has been the All Blacks, who perform it before their rugby matches. It has become a distinctive feature of Aotearoa's premier sports team.

According to Maori ethos, Tama-nui-to-ra, the Sun God, had two wives, Hine-raumati, the Summer maid, and Hine-takurua, the Winter maid. The child born to him and Hine-raumati was Tane-rore, who is credited with the origin of the dance. Tane-rore is the trembling of the air as seen on the hot days of summer, and represented by the quivering of the hands in the dance.

Haka is the generic name for all Maori dance. Today, haka is defined as that part of the Maori dance repertoire where the men are to the fore with the women lending vocal support in the rear. Most haka seen today are haka taparahi, haka without weapons.

More than any aspect of Maori culture, this complex dance is an expression of the passion, vigour and identity of the race. Haka is not merely a pastime of the Maori but was also a custom of high social importance in the welcoming and entertainment of visitors. Tribal reputation rose and fell on their ability to perform the haka (Hamana Mahuika).

Haka reflected the concerns and issues of the time, of defiance and protest, of factual occurrences and events at any given time.

The centrality of the haka within All Black rugby tradition is not a recent development. Since the original "All Black" team of "New Zealand Natives" led by Joseph Warbrick, the haka has been closely associated with New Zealand rugby. Its mystique has evolved along with the fierce determination, commitment and high level skill which has been the hallmark of New Zealand's National game.

The haka adds a unique component, derived from the indigenous Maori of New Zealand, and which aligns with the wider Polynesian cultures of the Pacific.

The All Blacks perform the haka with precision and intensity which underpins the All Black approach.

ISLAND OF WINE - from NEXT

There are less than 70 hectares of vineyards on Waiheke but the island's status as one of New Zealand's premium grape-growing regions is indisputable. Waiheke also produces our country's most expensive wines.

The two original pioneers of the Waiheke wine scene, Goldwater and Stonyridge, have since been joined by 20 new vineyards. Most of them are tiny, around 2-3 hectares or less, so it's unlikely that there will be any increase in the trickle of Waiheke wine that finds its way to the mainland.

To enjoy the best of Waiheke wine you have to go to the source, and what could be more pleasurable than a trip around some of New Zealand's most exclusive vineyards? If your time is limited, your best bet is the Fullers Tour, which takes you to Peninsula Estate, Stonyridge and the Mudbrick vineyard. For a full tour you'll need to hire a car and get a copy of the Waiheke Winegrowers Map. It tells you where each vineyard is located, what their opening hours are and if they have accommodation available.

As to the wines, it helps if you like reds, especially Cabernet and Merlot, which is what Waiheke does best. Stonyridge and Goldwater produce the dearest drops—up to NZ$90 a bottle—plus they're the hardest to get hold of. Te Motu is almost as expensive but a bit easier to find. Peninsula Estate is also well worth a visit; not only is the wine a little cheaper. but the views are spectacular. Peninsula's second label, Oneroa Bay Cabernet/Merlot 1998 is a bargain at only NZ$24, so snap some up for the cellar. Other Waiheke wines worth looking for are Obsidian, Mudbrick, and Fenton. If you fancy a white, try Mudbrick's superb Chardonnay and if you're a reds' fan, try Waiheke's first Pinot Noir, compliments of Putiki Bay.

For a map call the Waiheke Visitor Information Centre (09) 372 9999, Fullers (09) 367 9102 or any Waiheke winery.

Waiheke Island is in the Hauraki Gulf to the east of Auckland.

LEADING THE WAY - (from Stamp FOCUS)

In 1893, New Zealand became the first country in the world to achieve universal female suffrage.

Developing ideas from as early as 1899, Richard Pearse may have been among the first to achieve powered flight, and in 1919, Rutherford found a way to split the atom.

By the mid-1950s, New Zealand entrepreneur Bill Hamilton had turned Archimedes' idea for a water- jet propulsion system to drive propellerless boats.

Rounding out this issue (stamps), we have Hillary's confrontation of Everest and New Zealand's status as the first independent, legally nuclear-free country in the world.

Our country's young age is certainly an indication that such ground-breaking developments will continue. It is our strongest hope, for it gives us every reason to believe that, given our track record, New Zealand will continue to lead the way into the future.

(New Zealand Stamps Centre, New Zealand Post Ltd., Private Bag 3001, Wanganui, NZ

Ph: 64-6-345-7999. http://www.nzstamps.co.nz)

KIA MANAWANUI, KO AHAU

TENI, AUA E WEHI - Stephen J. Mangum

Many stories have been published in all forms of the news media centering on the Anzac Day theme. One I especially liked was in the NZ Herald on April 26, 1999, and is retold here in somewhat shortened form.

On November 13, 1914, Hone Tahitahi exaggerated his given age of seventeen and enlisted for overseas service with his brother Pita in the Maori Battalion of the New Zealand Expeditionary Force. His mother reportedly gave her reluctant blessing, but insisted that Hone take a Maori prayer book which contained prayers, hymns, and biblical text. She said it would save him, apparently meaning in the afterlife.

Hone and Pita landed on Gallipoli on the day the ANZAC legend was born, April 25, 1915. Hone was ordered up the cliffs to cut through barbed wire which was thwarting the Australian advance up the cliffs. However, a bullet from a Turkish defender struck him in the chest, right over his heart. He was catapulted backward and knocked unconscious.

Upon recovery, Hone noticed that the bullet had been stopped by the prayer book in his breast pocket. Still embedded, the bullet point rested under these words in Matthew 14:27 "Kia Manawanui, Ko Ahau Teni, Aua e Wehi". (Be of good cheer. It is I. Be not afraid").

The Tahitahi brothers were evacuated from Gallipoli and later served in France. Hone was badly wounded on the Western Front and, being not able to fight, was sent home. Before leaving, he mailed the prayer book to the London Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, which had published Maori prayer books since 1848.

Back home, family and friend always thought Hone's tale was a typical, romantic, exaggerated war story. Most regarded it fondly as just an old soldier's bed-time story.

In 1985 Bishop Edward Buckle found the prayer book in England while researching the society's archives. It was returned in 1986 by Queen Elizabeth to the then New Zealand Governor-General, Sir Paul Reeves, with the bullet still embedded in the pages. Inscriptions were found inside from Hone Tahitahi and an officer or chaplain verifying his lucky escape.

At an Anzac Day ceremony held in Te Kao in the Far North a small gathering blessed a bronze plaque and replica Maori prayer book. Waho Tahitahi, one of the six Maori Battalion members in attendance, said his brother returned from the war "a bit religious" and farmed near Houhora. Hone Tahitahi died in 1972.

Poppy Day in New Zealand is held on April 23d. Red paper flowers are given in exchange for dona- tions which the RSA uses for needy returned servicemen and women. The tradition was begun after Major John McCrae, a Canadian medical officer, wrote the requiem "In Flanders Field" in response to viewing the carnage at Ypres in Belgium in 1915.

Anzac Day became a public holiday in New Zealand in 1921 and is now the most significant public day of the year. The Internal Affairs Department has launched an informational site on the Internet at:

http://www.Nzhistory.Net.nzl/Gallery/Anzac/Anzac.htm

SPRING GARDENS AND NATIVE

PLANTS OF NEW ZEALAND - Oct. 31-Nov. 17

Sponsored by Pacific Horticulture and led by Kathy Musial, plants manager at the Huntington Gardens in Southern California, this group will explore native plant communities, visit private gardens and the scenic highlights of New Zealand.

On the North Island remnants of the giant kauri forests, the podocarp/broadleaf forest typical of the North Island bush, and the unique "goblin" forest of Mt. Taranaki will be explored. You will also visit some of the finest private gardens in New Zealand, enjoy a Maori cultural experience in Rotorua, a farmstay, and time to visit the Otari native Plant Museum in Wellington along with the new national museum Te Papa.

In Christchurch visit gardens and take a day trip by Tranz Alpine Express to Arthurs Pass to see the alpine plants. After a visit to Dunedin and environs, the tour ends in the lovely lakeside resort of Queenstown.

SUB-ANTARCTIC ISLANDS EXPEDITION:

Nov. 17-25, 2000.

Following our Spring Garden and Native Plant Tour we are offering this botanical cruise to the remote islands south of New Zealand. These Sub-Antarctic Islands are among the last great wildernesses in the world where those seeking a botanical and wildlife experience can find unparalleled opportunities. The knowledgeable cruise leader will provide a series of lectures supported by videos on the biology and history of the Sub-Antarctic Islands while at sea, and lead excursions on shore. This cruise may be undertaken as an extension to the Spring Gardens and Native Plants Tour or as a separate tour.

FIORDLAND DISCOVERY CRUISES

If you have already been on a Milford Sound or Doubtful Sound cruise you know what an unforgettable experience it is to sail in this remotest corner of New Zealand where nature flourishes on rainforested cliffs that plunge into the clean clear water. Here you can find peace beyond description.

We now invite you to consider joining a Discovery Cruise of the fords south of Doubtful Sound in July or August of this year. Cruises from 5 to 7 days long are offered aboard the Milford Wanderer.

The Wanderer, a scow built in the style of early trading vessels, provides a unique way to explore this spectacular World Heritage Area.

This region is accessible only from the water and very few people have been privileged to enjoy its tranquil beauty. Please contact our office if you would like more details.

Contact Pacific Pathways, 1919 Chula Vista Dr.. Belmont, CA 94002. Phone (650) 595-2090. Fax (650) 591-7721. NEW e-mail:

nzaustours@pacificpathways.com

NEW Website:

The final match saw New Zealand overpower the United States 65-5. Tammi Wilson led the way with 6 tries and 3 conversions.

The Black Ferns outscored the U.S. and Canada by 25 tries to 1. New Zealand remains unbeaten since 1991.

The New Zealand All-Blacks started their season well, going 5-1 prior to the Rugby World Cup. The AB's took the Tri-Nations for the third time in its four year existence, going 3-1 over Australia 2-2 and South Africa 1-3. However, the Wallabies hammered NZ 28-7 before an all-time record rugby crowd of over 107,000 in late August in Sydney's Olympic Stadium. It was Australia's greatest margin of victory over NZ in their many years of competition.

New Zealand went to Europe for the Rugby World Cup in late September and were promptly installed as 9-4 favorites to win the tournament. The consensus of most observers was that the All Blacks were a talented, young, somewhat erratic team with an explosive offensive potential. However, they also were lacking in leadership and experience, had several glaring positional weaknesses, and a tendency to collapse against great pressure.

The AB's opened by storming through Pool B, the dreaded "Pool of Death", defeating Tonga 45-9, England 30-16, and Italy 101-3. Next up was a sobering quarterfinal win over Scotland 30-18 where NZ started well but seemed completely befuddled in the second half.

The tournament semifinals on the weekend of Oct. 30-31 at Twickenham set the rugby world on fire after a relatively predictable tournament up to then. On Saturday, Oct. 30, Australia and South Africa played an epic test match which went into double overtime. The Wallabies finally won 27-2 1 on a brilliant drop-goal by fly-half Stephen Larkham followed by Matthew Burke's penalty kick.

On Sunday, Oct. 31, New Zealand rumbled onto the Twickenham pitch as 25-1 favorites over their opponent France. The All-Blacks were perhaps a little full of themselves and eagerly awaiting a final showdown with the Aussies for the Cup.

France, with nothing to lose, played a frenetic, keep-the-pressure-on match. New Zealand led 24-10 in the second half after Jonah Lomu's second brilliant try. The match suddenly turned as Christophe Lamaison hit two quick drop-goals, the two penalty goals. The momentum totally changed as France scored 33 unanswered points against the confused, staggering All- Blacks. The final score was France 43 New Zealand 31.

It was, undoubtedly, the greatest upset in Rugby World Cup history and one of the greatest rugby upsets ever.

A shaken and demoralized New Zealand team then lost to South Africa in the third-place match held Thursday night, Nov. 4th at Cardiff, Wales.

Australia took the William Webb Ellis Championship Trophy by defeating France decisively in the final 35-12 on Sat., Nov. 6th at Cardiff.

New Zealand's controversial coach John Hart resigned after the World Cup. However, on a more pleasant note, superstar Jonah Lomu declined lucrative offers to play in Europe and signed to play with the Wellington Hurricanes in Super 12 2000.

Veteran center Tim Horan, 29, of Australia was named the Rugby World Cup MVP. Other outstanding players were Daniel Herbert and Matthew Burke of Australia, Jonah Lomu and Andrew Mehrtens of New Zealand, Abdel Benazzi and Christophe Lamaison of France, Andre Venter and Joost Van der Westhuizen of South Africa, and Lawrence Dallaglio of England.

The best single game performance was by Jannie de Beer of South Africa, who scored 34 points against England in the quarterfinal held at Staide de France, Paris. This included a world-record five dropped goals. The other top game was by Christophe Lamaison who scored 28 points vs. New Zealand in the Twickenham semifinal.

Auckland defeated Wellington 24-18 to win the National Provincial Championship at Eden Park, Auckland. Following the match, Michael Jones, the legendary "Iceman" retired from competitive rugby.

Congratulations to Australia for their tremendous sporting performances in 1999. The Aussies won the Cricket World Cup, the Davis Cup in tennis, the Netball World Championship, swimming titles too numerous to mention, and of course, the aforementioned Rugby World Cup. The Australian Wallabies received a tremendous parade home in Sydney after the great RWC win. (Note to NZ All-Blacks: Try a drop-goal sometime. It helps win games, is tremendously exciting, and lights up the crowd).

Thanks to my mate Peter in Auckland for sending me lots of news and sports info from downunder. Cheers also to Melanie, Gloria, and John for extracting lots of good stuff from the mysteries of cyberspace for me.

One last thing: Kiwiphiles in America can watch the America's Cup on the deuce (ESPN-2) at various hours day or night. Yacht racing isn't that exciting on tv, but, weather permitting, we can see lots of great New Zealand scenery.

ARTY LOO PUTS TOWN ON MAP (NZ Herald)

A basic facility is creating an international buzz in the little Northland town of Kawakawa.

The fuss involves the town's new main-street public toilets, designed by Austrian-born artist Frederick Hundertwasser.

Hundertwasser took up a request by the Kawakawa Business and Development Association to remodel the old toilets in the town near a valley where he now lives.

Building-site supervisor Richard Smart said Europeans were already seeking out the toilets.

"We've had Germans here recently who had heard of the project back there, and visitors from Ireland who found out about it from friends in Austria."

Mr. Smart said Japan's NHK television had filmed the project for a documentary on the 70-year.old artist.

Hundertwasser was at the site nearly every day.

"He has said it is turning out better than his buildings in Europe," said Mr. Smart, "Because it is small, he can put a lot of attention into it.

Local interest was increasing as more of the colourful toilet block was revealed. "Some people who were quite reserved about it at first are now saying what a wonderful thing it is."

A variety of recycled materials has been used in the four-pan three-urinal toilet block, including sections of pipes from the old toilets, which are now incorporated in the columns, and pieces of the old concrete block walls worked into plastered and tiled areas.

Tiles made by Bay of Islands College students also feature, with expensive imported ceramics from Europe which Hundertwasser donated.

A covered walkway leads to the back of the building, where a picnic area will be developed on a grassy bank near a stream.

in front, the decorative paving will be extended ontc the pedestrian crossing, and columns will probably be put up on the other side of the street.

(Editor: Better get out your maps. Kawakawa is on Highway 1 north of Whangarei in the Bay of Islands area Website for Hundertwasser is: http://www.hundertwasser.de/english/mainindex.htm)

NZ MILLENNIUM TOUR EXPERIENCES

Being in New Zealand Dec. 18-Jan. 2 was terrific even though the temperatures were 8-12 degrees fahrenheit cooler than normal. Our friends loved the scenery, but as usual the local friendly Kiwis received the greatest compliments.

I inspected Blanket Bay, Glenorchy — Queenstown, the latest NZ luxury Lodge on the scene, where Robin Williams and family spent their holidays. A terrific location, and accommodations, meals and service offered equals the likes of Huka Lodge. Below are my wife's comments on our tour.

Eric McFerran, New Zealand Travel, Inc., 118 South Bellevue Avenue, Langhome, PA 19047.

"Millenium Year" celebrated on tour in New Zealand — by Helen McFerran

Is your Kiwi husband an energetic doer? Mine is. Over the years, has your Kiwi husband shared with friends and family the beauty and wonder of "Godsown"?. . . Mine has. These two phenomena converged as 1999 wound down. When 25 friends and family traveled with us to New Zealand for the Millenium. we were 25 "fifty-somethings" and then some.

An energetic doer attracts the same as friends. It was quite a group. On arrival in Auckland, there was no time for jet lag. .. it was off to a luncheon harbor sailing cruise and a good look at the America's Cup's goings on. Since the next round was weeks away, there were stealth practices outside the harbor and ample time to admire/stare at the super yachts from around the world.

From Auckland we headed to Waikato country with a quick visit to extraordinary Waitomo Glowworm Grotto. Enroute to Rotorua we stopped at Longland's Farm for an excellent lunch hosted by a dairy farmer As a New Jersey girl, I finally got the gist of how the milking machine works. Clear explanations and a willing cow were a great combination.

Evening found us in Rotorua where we headed for the Polynesian Spas.. .the hot springs and water massages transformed East Coast Americans. Start in the cool pool, advance to the warm pool, finish in the hot pool — what a way to go! From the pool, we went back to Rydges Hotel where rooms faced the race course track. In the morning, folk chose between sleeping in and enjoying the racing practice outside the window, or, for the keen, trout fishing. Needless to say, the sleepyheads joined the fishermen for breakfast — platters of fresh trout — delicious!

Tamaki Tours gave us a super evening. Although being selected as Chief for the evening surprised a dear friend, he rose to the occasion—and carried on as chief for the remainder of our weeks together.. . but that's another story. Maori song and dancing filled the evening.

Off to Wellington we went from Rotorua via Lake

Taupo where golfers in the group tried for a "hole in one". The driving range overlooked the lake with a backdrop of snow-capped volcanic mountains. A visit to the Army Museum in Waiouru enlivened family history. Great Uncle John was 19 when he headed off to Gallipoli with the Mounted Cavalry. Hearing his name cited in the Hall of Remembrance made clear what price he paid in August 1915.

New Zealand's National Te Papa in Wellington is a museum not to be missed. Now my Kiwi husband's favorite exhibit was The Shed.. .a fully recreated, historically accurate (based on my personal experience) shed.. .and we spent the rest of our weeks in New Zealand looking for the new publication Blokes and their Sheds. Must be a hot seller because we couldn't find it! Natural history, Maori history, the immigration experience—it's all there and alive and interactive. Definitely a kid-friendly place. (Blokes and their Sheds was later found!)

Kiwi ingenuity got us from Wellington to Picton on Christmas day. High seas canceled the Lynx at the very last moment. Now my Kiwi husband had called the Lynx every half hour during the morning and there had been no word of cancellation-and so he wasn't happy. But quick work on the cell phone convinced the Top Cat, a larger craft, to wait for our 25 folk. With our baggage on a truck for the first boat, and our tour group eating and snacking, it was a bit of Clark Kent magic to move all from the Lynx to the Top Cat. My husband says it was just Kiwi intelligence.

From Picton we traveled through the wine country to Blenheim where we had a wonderful Christmas dinner-family style at the Blenheim Country Lodge. In the morning we drove to Kaikoura, my husband's favorite spot. The beautiful beach, curve of the mountains, and expanse of skies make it easy to see why. The choppy seas had continued so whale watching was iffy, but at 10:30 we boarded and out to sea we went. Next time, remind me to rent the acupuncture wrist bands and not to kid myself about needing them. Happily, the other 24 had strong sea legs.. .and we saw two sperm whales. Initially, they look like unmanned aircraft carriers, but when they arch and dive it's magnificent to see their tail fins slip into the sea.

From Kaikoura we drove to Christchurch., my Kiwi husband's hometown. The Canterbury plains fill the imagination as one nears this agricultural city. Now you might wonder if it's possible to visit friends and family with 25 "fifty somethings" in tow. With careful planning, it is. In the evening we had a wonderful catch-up with Christchurch friends. We awoke early.

My husband had engaged a driver, a Kiwi historian. Because of theft, his great grandfather had been sent from England to Australia where he met his future wife, who at age 13 had been sent to Australia for housebreaking. They married and sailed to New Zealand where opportunity awaited. His granddad had surveyed the bridle path, the main way for settlers from Lyttelton harbor to Canterbury. There is no better match for an 86 year old Canterbrian mother-in-law than a genealogically correct driver. The day looked rosy.

Our first stop was to visit my husband's niece and her two young teenage boys—full of all the energy and spirit that teenagers should have. From there we drove to Lyttelton where his mom, aged 86, was living in a residential home. Much excitement about the Millennium fireworks in the harbor and six cruise ships arriving during the space of a few weeks! We returned to Christchurch and stopped to visit with my husband's sister, and then on to town where relatives joined us. Now do not underestimate the excitement that the first grand niece brings to a Kiwi heart. The visit with niece, husband and new baby was a highlight—and dinner with all delightful. Certainly 24 full hours.

From Christchurch we flew to Invercargill and six farm stays for 25 "fifty somethings". Red deer, sheep, and acreage beyond our New Jersey imaginations—it was wonderful. For many of us "fifty something" ladies, the added plus was the gardens! Wonderful, varied gardens—free from the plague of white tail deer.

Leaving the farm, we drove to Te Anau—more early morning fly fishing for some, with luck for a few—and then on to Queenstown, definitely the jewel! We stayed in a small lodge (Nugget Point) in the heart of the Alps. Have you ever lived in a postcard? Now, I have. This little hotel offers views of the Shotover River—and from the hot pool I could see friends in jet boats. It was beyond believable. Now some may rave about Milford Sound—and it certainly is raveable—but for me, looking out at the mountains and the river gorges was beyond the imagination of this New Jersey girl.

A visit to Peter Beadle, renowned New Zealand landscape artist, was the last magic of the trip. We had seen the countryside and the art of many. A visit to Peter's studio was a highlight long to be enjoyed on home walls. How lucky to return with memories beyond the camera's eye.

December 31 and the Millennium was near. An evening at Gantley's Restaurant near our hotel was perfect. Gantley's had an exquisite menu and a creative

entertainer. Midnight was wonderful—local champagne rivaled France's best.

The New Year dawned with a morning excursion on beautiful Lake Wakatipu. Now, you must remember that we—all 25 of us—were primed for the Bug Attack. When my husband emerged from the shower at 7:30am to say that the lights had just failed, it seemed certain to be the Y2k Bug. Water containers on the balcony, batteries and flashlights ready, we were surprised to find that a possum had chewed through the power lines. So much for Y2k!

Our New Year's Day journey on the vintage steamship Earnslaw took us to the Walter Peak Sheep Station. A wonderful Kiwi breakfast, sheepdog demonstration and shearing made South Island isolated country living come alive. The sheepdog rounded up the sheep from the high country and the station manager made clear the dog was not for sale at any price-although $US 100,000 might do.

Home to the States the 2nd. No Y2k bug but plenty of fog. Instead of flying to Christchurch we drove from Queenstown to Invercargill. The fog lifted as we approached the coast and north we flew. All connections were missed and remade. After 32 hours, we arrived in Newark, New Jersey—and five hours later, I was up and off to work. After a splendid trip Down Under, how lucky I was that our New Year at school started with faculty meetings. The students arrived 1/3/00.

(Helen McFerran is the wife of Eric McFerran, owner of New Zealand Travel, Inc., organizer of the Millennium tour. Telephone 1 800 367 5494 or E-mail: NZTravel@aol.com)

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