Volume XIII, No. 3

MARCH 2001

MEETING THE REAL PEOPLE

Spend time with the people of New Zealand and discover the heart of the country. You'll take some very special memories home with you.

Kiwis are renowned for their friendliness and hospitality. Don't be surprised if people you've just met invite you into their homes and gardens, and share all kinds of stories, opinions and activities with you.

Kiwis love to talk to travelers—you could find yourself swapping histories, debating sporting prowess or learning more about a totally new culture. Our unique perspective may even change your understanding of the world.

These encounters may happen in unlikely places, when you least expect them, but our famed generosity and warmth is something you'll find again and again. It's one reason some visitors keep coming back.

Enjoy the hospitality of Kiwi hosts—from home and farmstays, motels, lodges and B&Bs, to a marae (Maori meeting place) and backpacking hostels.

Sample home-cooked meals, as well as award-winning cuisine and wine. Experience a true Kiwi lifestyle in uncrowded rural areas. Put on gumboots and help with activities such as harvesting, lambing or milking cows. Discover the things thai New Zealanders love, from beer and bands to favorite fishing spots and restaurants.

EASTLAND EXPLORATION - Ross Boreham

There are no passport checks at the borders of Eastland (the east coast of the North Island). Everyone is welcome and the only requisites for visitors are time and a willingness to delight in some of nature's finest work.

If time is a commodity in short supply, you may be advised to accumulate some extended leave, for this magnificent, eastern slice of mountains,

forests, fertile plains and their encompassing coastline demands a leisurely approach.

Excellent air links make the region, comprising the Opotiki, Gisborne and Wairoa Districts, easily accessible for weekend sojourns, but an Eastland exploration is best tackled by more terrestrial means— such as a nimble vehicle, mountain bike, horse, raft, kayak, surfboard, fishing boat, or any blend of the above, as the situation dictates.

For increasing numbers of international and domestic visitors, the route to East Coast discovery is the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). Arguably one of the most outstanding scenic highways anywhere in the world, the PCH hugs the east coast from Manukau City in the north to Napier in the south.

Although it is not for timid drivers, if the epithet "free and independent traveller" applies to your mindset as well as your transport, 1,092 kms of wondrous coastal wilderness awaits your pleasure. So do countless other natural and manmade temptations encountered along the way, but nowhere will you find more reasons to daily than in Eastland. The opportunities are countless as you head east through Opotiki and on via East Cape to Gisborne and Wairoa, so a call at an Information Centre is a must.

Opotiki's immense and beautifully carved totara pouwhenua sets the scene at Eastland's western entrance. The huge pole is central to an impressive "main street" redevelopment which sympathetically blends commerce with intriguing reminders of the town's early days—like St. Stephen's Chiurch, scene of the Reverend Carl Volkner's murder when the region became embroiled in the land wars of the 1860's.

A toastal focus is inescapable in any Eastland feature, but the region's inland reaches also hold treasures. The short route (S.H.2) between Opotiki and Gisborne tracks the Waioweka River at every turn through a 60-kilometre gorge leading to the only accessible pass in the dividing ranges.

The river's gradual change from broad lowland flow to rocky hill country torrent is fascinating to follow and abundant camping, picnicking, tramping, kayaking, mountain biking and fishing opportunities make this spectacular highway a destination in its own right.

Those departing Opotiki via the Pacific Coast Highway won't have far to go before distractions lure bodies from vehicles. Jet boat or raft the Motu, the country's last great, wild river. Make friends with one of the many expert charter operators as you dive or fish the clear blue waters on a coast where every perfect bay takes the breath away. Four-wheel drive to the East Cape lighthouse or watch the first rays of the sun light up sacred Mount Hikurangi.

Maori cultural and spiritual values are the cornerstone of coast life and the fascinating oral and pictorial histories of the descendants of the Takitimu and Horouta waka can readily be revealed through visits to the Marae which are the heart of most Eastland communities.

Winding its way around bay after magical bay, the highway arrives in Gisborne, where Captain James Cook made his first New Zealand landfall in 1769. The Gisborne Museum offers insights into the events which have shaped the region, but history is all around you. Just ask a local and sit back and enjoy the story.

While in the Coast's largest population centre, linger awhile in the inner harbour village, where you can enjoy a meal while watching the fishing fleet return. No great holiday can ignore the finer pursuits and wine and food lovers will encounter many mouth- watering moments on their coastal idyll. Fresh seafood is a speciality at the excellent restaurants in Gisborne and other centres along the PCH, but the region's horticultural and agricultural harvests add other key ingredients to the Eastland cuisine-fest.

Gisborne is known as the Chardonnay Capital of New Zealand, and for good reason. All of the major wineries have winemaking or grapegrowing interests in the region and top boutique wineries such as Matawhero and the Militon Vineyard form an enticing wine trail.

At the southern end of the region, the Wairoa District offers more outdoor fascinations. Soak in Morere's hot thermal springs, or lounge on a Mahia beach until the urge to bodysurf a perfect wave becomes irresistible. Delve into water-carved cave systems or ride a high country farm.

Wairoa is also the gateway to Lake Waikaremoana, where deep emerald waters are clasped within the arms of the Urewera Ranges. Te Urewera National

Park is an ecological resource of world standing and the three-day tramp around the lake is one of the great walks of New Zealand. But for most visitors. Waikaremoana's wonderful camping, boating and fishing is more than sufficient lure. The road onwards (S.H. 38) to Murupara is difficult, but completes an Eastland circumnavigation which will reward intrepid holiday-makers with indelible impressions of New Zealand as it must remain.

If all of that creates stirrings of wanderlust in a free and independent traveller's heart, pack a bag and head east for the light. And if not, it's probably too late, but check for a pulse anyway!

COME BALLOONING OVER HAWKE'S BAY

Flights take place in the early morning within the first few hours of sunrise. They last about one hour, but 4 hours total excursion time is normal. Hawke's Bay is perfect for ballooning with wide open spaces of farmlands, orchards, vineyards and a picturesque mountain background.

We launch our balloons from sites to give the best advantage of wind direction. After the flight our chase vehicle will return passengers to the launch site.

Part of the ballooning magic is that you never know in advance where you might land. A balloon cannot be steered. . it drifts with the wind; we may land in a paddock, on a riverbed, in a park, or maybe in school grounds. No matter where, there is always great excitement. The river beds around Hastings are the most popular sites for us.

And to follow the flight a traditional ballooning breakfast.

All children to be accompanied by an adult. (We do not recommend balloon flights for children under 10). All balloons and pilots are licensed and approved by the Civil Aviation Authority.

A flight will be cancelled without hesitation should weather conditions be unsuitable. Throughout the flight the pilot is in constant radio contact with both the chase vehicle and Air Traffic Control.

(Early Morning Balloons Ltd. Hosts: Andrew & Sally Livingston. RD3, Waipukurau, NZ)

AUSTRALIAN SISTERS RETRACE

NEW ZEALAND STEPS 65 YEARS ON

Sixty-five years ago the New Zealand tourism department planned an itinerary for two young Australian sisters. This month the pair retrace their steps, coinciding with Tourism New Zealand's centenary.

In 1936 the Department of Tourist and Health Resorts (now Tourism New Zealand) operated a network of Government Tourist Bureaux, nationally and offshore. The Bureaux provided a one-stop shop for visitors, from accommodation bookings through to complete itinerary planning.

It was at the Melbourne office that the trip was booked. "It was a real adventure for two young girls in those days," says Dora Payens. "I was only 23 (years) and Jean 19—it was our first holiday on our own, without our family."

Now aged 88, Dora and sister Jean Kahan, aged 84, were to arrive at Milford Sound on 5 February 2001 to retrace their steps of 1936/7. Dora has some delightfl.il tales to tell about her 1936 visit and is eager to explore her old haunts to see how New Zealand's tourism attractions have changed.

From WYSIWYG NEWS - by Brian Harmer

(Copyright by Brian Harmer, reprinted by permission)

If you wait long enough it always comes right. It wasn't warm, mind you, nor was it as cold as it was in the South Island this week, but at last we had a few of those wonderful bright crisp winter days. Even before the dawn, the crystal clarity of the stars and the black outline of the hills against the almost imperceptible lightening of the eastern sky cried out that this would be a beauty. And when at last old Sol appeared, the sharp edged gold-lined peaks of the Tararuas were painted in all their icy glory.

A little later in the morning soon after seven, on the motorway into Wellington, the harbour capital earned its name as the last morning shadow of the eastern hills slid down the western backdrop of the city. Brooklyn and Wright's hill lit up in a blaze of yellow light, and soon the windows of some of the city's mirror glazed buildings reflected the sparkle of the day.

Across the still blue waters of the harbour, the fast ferry "Top Cat" gathered speed as it passed Pt. Jerningham. As a great creamy wake jetted up behind it and even the traffic crawls along the stretch from Ngauaranga to the Railyard, she was gone around the Miramar Peninsula, leaving just the hint of spray from her thundering jets.

Speaking of thundering jets, the fountain off Oriental Bay was jetting straight up and, unusually, the water cascaded down upon the base of the fountain rather than veering off to North or South as it is more likely to do in less perfect conditions.

At the container terminal a big P&O Nedlloyd container ship, probably in the order of 50,000 tonnes was berthing with the aid of the two sturdy little red tugs, "Toia" and "Kupe" which have amused our citizens for over thirty years now.

The electric units from the Hutt Valley and Porirua rolled into Wellington. side by side, and in the far south no less than three sets of landing lights signified a steady stream of inbound air traffic making a straight-in approach to our notorious airport.

This scenario repeated itself three times this week, and just as people forget to fix the leak in the roof once the sun comes out, the memory of the howling Southerly from the start of the week is sustained only by the immaculate whiteness of those mountains to the north. What great days to be alive and in Wellington.

HISTORY ON ICE (eSTUFF)

New Zealand is leading the world in saving the huts of the heroic age of Antarctic exploration, despite shoestring budgets and limited backing, writes John Henzell.

That's fortunate, because it is passion rather than plump budgets behind the New Zealand team trying to save the huts from succumbing to some of the world's harshest weather.

For the Antarctic Heritage Trust, the Christchurch-based charity which looks after 34 historic sites under New Zealand stewardship on the Ice, harnessing that passion is vital in ensuring they will be around for future generations.

One who has been brought on board by the trust is University of Waikato professor Roberta Farrell, who has just returned from her third expedition to the Ice researching how to best preserve the three huts on Ross Island near Scott Base.

The passion she brings to the task is easily demonstrated: she not only endures the privations of field work in Antarctica, but does so in her own holidays and with volunteer assistants because her research gets no funding from her department.

Instead, she relies on "grace and favour"— logistical support from Antarctica New Zealand, a discretionary grant from her Vice-Chancellor "who doesn't mind me putting my time into it:, and money she raises from consulting or outside lectures which she can divert to her hut fund.

"They (explorers) went there for reasons that were exceptional for humans—establishing and understanding science and not to exploit or rape or

pillage oil or minerals—and that's the best reason to preserve them"

That enthusiasm is shared by the trust's executive officer Nigel Watson, who describes the three huts on Ross Island—two built by Scott and one by Shackleton—as "the jewels in the crown" of Antarctic heritage.

"You go into these huts and come out with your spine tingling. It's like walking into history, as if the explorers are about to walk back in the door," he says.

Professor Farrell says the fact that the huts still exist at all is something of a small miracle because they were each built to last for one expedition, but have since survived up to 90 years of near-total neglect while enduring some of the world's harshest weather.

Considering the small budgets, Farrell says New Zealand researchers are leading the way in preservation of historic polar buildings. Other far better- funded nations such as Australia, which has its own historic huts from the heroic age on the Ice, are following the Kiwis' lead.

MT BRUCE NATIONAL WILDLIFE CENTRE

The beginning of Mt. Bruce started millions of years ago with some things having never changed. This area had always been bush covered, an almost unbroken expanse of dense lowland podocarp hardwood forest, known to the european as the "Forty Mile Bush" which extended from Mauriceville to Woodville. The land was sold to the Government in 1871. Our little 1000 hectares was surveyed in 1889 and proclaimed a State Forest. We do not know why Mt Bruce was saved and the rest destroyed.

The National Wildlife Centre has been historically involved in breeding and rearing New Zealand's rare and endangered birds for over 30 years. The Centre's history traces back to the rediscovery of the takahe in the Murchison Mountains in 1948. In 1958 four takehe chicks were brought to a keen aviculturist, Mr. Elwyn Welch for rearing and our work started.

In 1962 the Wildlife Service took on the avicultural role and because the Mt Bruce Forest was so unique and close to Wellington, it was established for the purpose of the protection, and management of native birds.

In 1984, a locally based charitable trust was formally established to administer the facility for education and for the benefit of the New Zealand people as a whole. The Mt Bruce Native Bird Reserve became the National Wildlife Centre.

Since 1987 the Department of Conservation took over the Wildlife Service's role and jointly administers the National Wildlife Centre with the National Wildlife Centre Trust Board.

The New Zealand archipelago is one of the most isolated landmasses on Earth. We have been adrift from other southern continents for up to 80 million years. In the absence of grazing and predatory terrestrial mammals, a collection of biological oddities evolved. New Zealand was home to a myriad of weird and wonderful creatures. Daisies as big as trees, giant insects including giant carnivorous land snails and flightless weevils. One of the largest eagles to have ever lived, the Haast Eagle, had a wing span of over three metres. There were many flightless birds including the Moa and tiny wrens as well as the world's largest gecko and a group of frogs so primitive that they didn't even croak!

Since first settled, New Zealand has lost 43% of the frog fauna and over 40% of the bird fauna, the giant gecko has gone along with the flightless wrens, giant eagle and moa. Most lowland forest has given way to agriculture and plantation forestry, and most wetlands have been drained. Remaining ecosystems have been invaded by alien plants, are browsed by alien herbivores and are preyed on by alien mammals.

New Zealand now has as many threatened species as the whole USA (over 600).

Mass extinctions, such as the decline of dinosaurs, have generated endless speculation about their causes. But there is nothing mysterious about the wave of extinctions now facing us. This global "bio-diversity crisis" is either directly or indirectly attributed to the effects of people and is rightly the subject of much concern; it may ultimately affect the capacity of the planet to support our descendants.

Mt Bruce is 30km north of Masterton on State Highway 2. It takes about 2 hours to drive from Wellington or Napier, about 1 hour from Palmerston North. Tranzit coaches operate between Pa.lmerston North and Masterton and can set down and pick up passengers at Mt Bruce.

SPRINGTIME IN NEW ZEALAND GARDENS AND SCENIC HIGHLIGHTS - Oct. 13-30, 2001

(Tour leader Joan Van Houtte, is a native born New Zealander who grew up in a family of avid amateur gardeners and presently lives on a large sheep station on the North Island. She has traveled extensively overseas visiting gardens and is active in her local gardening community. Her warm personality, sense of humor, and relaxed "Kiwi" disposition will be a delight to all.

Our tour commences in Auckland, City of Sails. Here you will have the opportunity to view some of the remnants of New Zealand's vast kauri forests while you tour local gardens and take in the bustling atmosphere of New Zealand's largest city.

In Rotorua visit the Agrodome to learn something of New Zealand's agricultural background, tour one of the local thermal areas and visit Tikitere Gardens, and one smaller garden. In the evening enjoy a Maori cultural experience.

Travel across the North Island to New Plymouth where the New Zealand Rhododendron Society will be holding their annual Rhododendron Conference. If you choose not to attend the conference you will be visiting local gardens. Enjoy garden visits and a farmstay en route to Wellington, then fly to the Garden City of Christchurch on the South Island.

Tour the Antarctic Center and visit Ohinetahi, one of New Zealand's oldest gardens. Have lunch in the lovely Mona Vale gardens and enjoy some free time to explore the Botanic Gardens, the Arts Center, Museum, Cathedral and local shops.

Continue south to Dunedin stopping en route for garden visits and lunch in the garden at Stonehaven. Tour the famed Dunedin Botanic Gardens and others before traveling out to Tairoa Heads to visit the yellow-eyed penguin colony and look for royal albatross flying to their nests on the cliffs.

Tour the glowworm caves across Lake TeAnau. Cruise overnight on majestic Milford Sound after a day exploring the forests and meadows of Fiordland, then end the tour with two nights in the alpine village of Queenstown.

(Pacific Pathways. 1919 Chula Vista Dr., Belmont, CA 94002.

Ph: 650-595-2090 Fax: 650-591-7721.

E-mail: nzaustours@pacificpathways.com Website: www.pacificpathways.com)

PRICE STAGGERS (Wairarapa Times-Age)

A Wairarapa stag (deer) sold for $142,000 at an auction near Masterton recently, a record price for a New Zealand stag.

The animal weighed 172.5kg and at two years old already had a head of 35 points. It belonged to Andrew and Rachael Mitchell, of Rodway Park Red Deer Stud, and was sold to an American.

The Mitchells had bought the stag's mother, a warnham-eastern cross hind, in calf for $700 from stud breeder John Carter of Cambridge. The stag's father, Lardro, was an eastern-warnham cross.

This was the Mitchells' first auction after three years in business, and the stag was the first animal to be sold. Mrs. Mitchell led the animal into the ring, and said it was "quite awe-inspiring to stand there and hear all this money being thrown around". She said the record- breaking stag had been a bonus, because it was its mother they really wanted, for breeding purposes.

The stag beat the previous record price of $124,000 set in 1993, and more than doubled the previous best price this year, of $63,000.

SOUNDS TERRIFIC — Bill Gasson escapes the city for a weekend walk in the Rangitikei ranges and crosses Cook Strait to cruise and walk in Marlborough

Farmer Swazilander Derick Foss and his wife Jenny seem to have found the answer for anyone who wants a complete change of scenery—a three-day boating-cum-walking holiday.

Operating out of Picton with the Christopher Grey, a 15.8-metre former crayfishing boat known as Tramp the Track Boat, the Fosses take up to 10 guests on three-day, two-night trips to explore the Queen Charlotte Walkway.

All North Islanders need to do is catch the early Lynx across Cook Strait on a Monday or Friday, and load their gear on to the Christopher Grey moored near the ferry terminal at Picton.

Derick fits in with whatever you want. He will drop you off at Ship Cove or anywhere else along the walkway. You can walk or sail or do a bit of both.

We land at Captain Cook's favourite spot, Ship Cove, and five hours later, after an undulating walk through native bush, reward ourselves with a cool drink at Furneaux Lodge in Endeavour Inlet.

After showering back on board and sampling a few of the wines we have stored in the ship's icebox we head ashore again for dinner at the lodge.

Next day the Christopher Grey sails to Punga Cove. Two of our group set off on the eight-hour walk to Torea Bay. The rest amble the 12 picturesque kilometres through scented bush back to Furneaux Lodge where Derick collects us all and then finds a sheltered cove for an on-board barbecue.

We've brought our own steaks and cook the meal ourselves, but Derick can provide it all for an additional fee. He also contributes biltong, South African dried beef, to go with our nibbles and wine, on what becomes a hilarious night.

Early mornings are magical. The sun's rays seep into the dense greens of the punga-dotted bush from which comes a chorus of bird calls.

The water ripples dark and brooding under the hillsides and sparkles in the sunshine. It's an artists's paradise. Wellington seems a thousand kilometres away.

We walk for four hours through a majestic beech forest from Mistletoe Bay to Anakiwa on the third day and anchor for an extra night at Torea Bay. Derick books us a table at the Portage in Keneperu Sound for our farewell dinner, and a bus takes us across from Torea Bay.

We set off early next morning for Picton and home.

Derick and Jenny, who took over the business last February, have already added two inflatable kayaks and installed heating below decks for winter cruising on the Christopher Grey and have more improvements in mind.

Ten people tend to pack the boat and it's very much give and take down below, particularly with one toilet. One or two bunks are a bit narrow, too, but travellers soon sort themselves out. The best idea is filling the boat with friends.

Derick will take a group of eight, but any less than that and he reserves the right to fill the other bunks. But, then, if he finds only two people are booked for a trip, he'll still take them out.

A tip: take ear plugs to silence the snores.

(For more info contact: Derick Foss, P0 Box 561, Picton. Or freephone 0800 287267, mobile 025 446 308.)

AUCKLAND HOLIDAY WEEKEND

by Reva Byrd (continued from December KIWIphile FILE)

Walking down the hill toward the beach at Brown's Bay, I had this feeling of tremendous freedom and power. I was so in charge of my life. Here I was, a divorced, 65-year-old grandmother, traveling alone halfway around the world, and walking alone in New Zealand's largest city. People who had been strangers yesterday had opened their hearts and homes to me. Life just couldn't be any better!

Before I reached the beach I heard bands playing Christmas music and I saw the Merry Christmas Parade. The usual floats with glitz and glitter I was used to were interspersed with an Irish band playing "It's a Long Way to Tipperary," while one rock band soon drowned it out. A truckload of Christian youth sang, prayed and preached beside a sign which said, "Church is fun." Their means of celebrating Christmas looked very much like Christmas in smalltown America except for the Irish music.

Without warning the once-sunny sky dumped barrels of wet "cheer." I got on my rain apparel

and walked the warm beach where families picnicked as the rain slowed. I shopped the tiny specialty shops. Young children sat on the sidewalk playing their band instruments, leaving their instrument cases open for donations. There were no signs, but I presumed they were collecting money for the school band. They didn't look up, smile, or speak—just played earnestly. I thought American kids that age would be less serious about anything except fun. Their schools here are divided by sex until high school. (That's when! would divide them!)

It was December but the "April Showers" were warm and fresh. I enjoyed the four short blocks of businesses and started up the hill as the sun drove away the showers. I was really warm before I reached the house. Before my nap Joan insisted I lay back in the recliner and watch a video on past and recent volcanic eruptions. Some of the footage was very old, in black and white. It showed the terror of experiences we never know in Virginia. It was reminiscent of footage of several San Francisco earthquakes, including the most recent, and also my favorite old movie, "San Francisco" with Clark Gable, Spencer Tracy, and Jeanette McDonald.

Joan's husband Jim was retired but drove tour buses part time. He was a very happy, intelligent and talented man. They acted like honeymooners! They met when Joan was a tour director and took a group on his bus.

Before Jim left on another trip he played for me on the organ "Lara's Theme" from Dr. Zhivago and "Love is a Many Splendored Thing"!

Meanwhile Joan had prepared a delicious dinner. My jet lag soon ended the conversation. Joan had warmed the bed with an electric blanket which took the chill off the spring night, and I slept soundly with new friends halfway around the world from my home.

On Sunday Joan and I went to two small services at the New Thought Ministries at Auckland's downtown Hilton. The service was like a spiritual dance. The mood may have been set by Graeme's lovely, glowing wife who had been a dancer in Australia.

A young trio of singer/instrumentalists, "Troika," played for the services. Their interesting selections were an Italian medley, and a Southern medley including "Bill Bailey" and "The Lady was a Tramp"! After the service they told me of a Polynesian who named his children after names he found in a book. It was a grammar book and the children were called Grammar, Adverb, Comma, etc.

Graeme told a story, "A children's book: 'Pennsylvania to Tasmania', about a boy who was digging to the other side of the earth. He went head first and threw the dirt behind him. He ended up in Tasmania on his head." The point of his message was to check out the direction in which you are headed because that's where you'll end up.

After service Joan and I went to the rose gardens and then to the museum for lunch. Her father had received special honor from the Queen on the museum steps. He was Joan's idol. She was born in Samoa where be was governor. Her mother was a social butterfly and didn't want a child. They sent her to live with Auntie Eileen (or Lady Whiskard) who taught her to be a proper English lady. I learned the proper term for your slip is showing was "Georgette!" (a filmy material used for ladies' fine underclothes.)

From boarding school Joan wrote her father about her first kiss. He wrote, "Imagine life as a sweet shop. The first sweet you taste is the sweetest and you never forget it!"

My Thanksgiving weekend in Auckland was memorable because Joan and I have a common view of "Life as a sweet shop!"

(From "The Awesome Threesome", about three seniors whose ages totaled 235 years. Author Reva Byrd loves the free, single life, traveling and writing about it. This published author and award winning artist illustrates her recent childrens' books.)

NEW ZEALAND ECOTOURISM - by Richard Croft (reprint)

In a world which is becoming increasingly dominated by high-powered commercial tourist operators, it is pleasing to know that there are still some places in the world where nature lovers can indulge their need to get away from the stresses and strains of urban life.

Tucked away in the vast remoteness of the South Pacific Ocean is one such place, the islands which make up New Zealand. Of course organised packaged tours still predominate, and for some people this is the preferred way to travel. However, an increasing number of visitors are opting to take advantage of the almost unlimited variety of walks and treks ranging from a few hours to a few days or more in this country.

In many parts of the world industrialisation, exploitation of raw material resources, leading to pollution of the atmosphere, waterways, soil and forests has concerned scientists and environmentalists everywhere, and has raised awareness of the urgent need for conservation measures.

This concern has in turn led to the development of a new activity called "ecotourism".

Just about everywhere you go in New Zealand, either in or within a short distance of every city or town, there are signposted walks where you stroll at leisure and enjoy the peace and tranquility of the forest and observe the bird life. It can be incredibly satisfying and relaxing.

For the more active and adventurous there are many local operators who cater for and organise group walks to points of interest, as well as accommodations and meals. Visitor and information centres can provide full details.

Here is a sample description of one such ECOTOUR in the lower South Island.

Fergus and Mary Sutherland have been guiding visitors through the rich beauty of the Catlins region for many years. Their Balclutha-based business, Catlins Wildlife Trackers, has succeeded in the ecotourism field due mainly to their dedication to conservation.

Their award-winning two and three day tours soak up the Catlins landscape. Located on the South Otago coast, this area is a remote and idyllic part of New Zealand.

The Sutherlands tours are all-inclusive packages for up to 8 people including accommodation and meals at their home in Papatowai with its "million dollar" views over forest and ocean. Here visitors are treated to garden-fresh, home-cooked meals, and all the comforts of family life. The guestrooms provide cosy single, twin and group accommodation.

The ecotours are personal and flexible enough to allow for individual interests. The Sutherlands' combined wealth of knowledge and information on the area is passed on in a friendly and informal manner. There is no rush on the tour because taking in the Catlins slowly is the best way to see the area.

(Editor: Here is up-to-date information from the internet:)

CATLINS WILDLIFE TRACKERS ECOTOURS AND ACCOMMODATION (Fergus and Mary Sutherland)

We live in the Catlins and run natural history/wildlife ecotours, offer conservation work opportunities and workshops, as well as accommoda- tion options. Our ecotourism trips emphasise learning about and seeing nature with us. We have won awards for our tours. We have three children: a 29 year old daughter (and son-in-law), a 27 year old daughter and a 15 year old son. We now have a granddaughter, born August 2000. Also a dachshund named Cloudberry, and a house we built ourselves overlooking the sea and forest.

We have a self-catering cottage, a lodge or a homestay accommodation available for those who do not want a tour.

Our house where tour guests stay with us is located on the coast with an elevated and uninterrupted view over a natural scene of native forest, river estuary, beach and ocean. A few minutes from the house you can be walking on a lonely beach or through old-growth rainforest or along a forest-lined river estuary. There are many birds to be seen near the house and in the house we have a library of books and magazines with an emphasis on natural history. There are archaeological sites nearby and you can examine our collection of moa bones and artifacts. We provide comfortable accommodation rooms: two doubles and two twins. The two bathrooms are shared. All meals are provided for the duration of the tours and are made with fresh ingredients.

You will be contributing to conservation of wildlife on every tour. We make wildlife observations, trap non-native predators and remove weeds. The work break programme involves specific projects for penguins, plant and history conservation as well as educational workshops. We work to a code of sustainable environmental practice and are part-time Department of Conservation rangers. We are sensitive to the cultural environment that we live in.

Quote of the month: On Dunedin, "The people are Scotch. They stopped here on their way from home to heaven — thinking they had arrived". Mark Twain

(Bookings and information: Catlins Wildlife Trackers, Papatowai

RD 2, Owaka, South Otago, New Zealand. Ph/fax: (03)415 8613,

Toll-free OSOOCATLINS

Email: catlinw@es.co.nz

Website: http://www.es.co.nz/~catlinw/home.htm)

FLY BY WIRE

You're the pilot on Fly by Wire: the word's fastest adventure ride! Experience from 3 'Gs' to weightlessness within seconds! Fly the world's fastest ride and you're the pilot!

Oueenstown Fly by Wire : The Queenstown ride opened in June 1998 and has been clocked at 171 kph making it the world's fastest ride. The plane is designed to fly as fast as 200 kph and is located in the Adventure Capital of the World.

Visit the Fly by Wire shop, located at the corner of Shotover and Rees Streets. Our 4WD takes guests to the ride site on a regular schedule. Located in a spectacular canyon just 20 minutes from Queenstown, Fly by Wire is the wildest adventure

ride you'll ever see! Remember you can go as fast or as slow as you want to because you're the pilot!

The price is NZ$129 (approximately US$65) which includes 4WD transportation to the canyon. Spectacular views of the Remarkables, Coronet Peak and the Shotover River can be enjoyed en route to the ride.

(Neil Harrap, 11 St. Mary St., Wellington, NZ. neilharrap@hotmail.com Tel. +64 25 300 260. Fax +644 499 8383. Website: http://www.flybywire.co.nz)

DOWN UNDER HOLIDAYS - By Judy Miller

My sister Donna and her husband Larry from Palm Desert, California; my friend Cathy from Annapolis, Maryland, and I (from Anchorage, Alaska) all converged in Los Angeles on December 22 where we boarded our United Airlines flight to Auckland.

We spent three wonderful weeks traveling from Russell, Bay of Islands, to Milford Sound and points in between. During the trip we revisited old favorites and made some fun new discoveries.

OLD FAVORITES:

Commodores Lodge, The Waterfront, (P0 Box 228), Russell, Bay of Islands.

Ph. 09-403-7899, Fax 09-403-7289.

Email: commodores.lodge@xtra.co.nz

Located right on the waterfront, you certainly can't beat the location. You are just steps from the historic Duke of Marlborough Hotel as well as several really good restaurants and the Fuller Tours booking office. I have stayed many times at the Commodore and while it has changed ownership a couple of times (Ken and Robbie Mitchell are the new owners), the hospitality has always been impeccable.

Units all have kitchens and most are one bed- room. Rates are around $18ONZ per night for two persons.

Anchor Inn Motel, 208 The Esplanade, Kaikoura, South Island. Phone: 03-319-5426, Fax 03-319- 5427

Again, I have stayed at the Anchor Inn more than once. It is across the road from the beach and about 11/2 miles from town. A fairly new establishment, it has been designed for the tourist with reading lights over the bed, a shower to die for and a modern, well-appointed kitchen. Again, the rate is about $185 for 2 and there are several different types of rooms.

Omega Rental Cars

Email: rent-car@akldnz.co.nz

Website: www.akldnz.co.nz

I have rented twice from Omega and will do so again. We hired a Toyota Previa van for the entire

time we were in the country at NZ$139 a day including GST and collision damage waiver. That was about US$65 a day. It turned out to be a real bargain when we started hauling around 4 people and baggage and proved really valuable when we loaded up 13 ladies and drove to Seadowns for a bridal shower.

The Lodges, Queenstown

Email: stay@thelodges.co.nz

This turned out to be our biggest splurge but it was worth it and again it was the exchange rate and the splitting of expenses that saved us. We paid NZ$262 per night for a three bedroom, two bath apartment within a 5 minute walk of downtown Queenstown over New Years. The unit would have easily accommodated 6-8 persons. Also included was a washer and dryer, full kitchen and deck overlooking Lake Wakatipu.

NEW FAVORITES

Finz Restaurant, Kaikoura:

On our way from Christchurch back to Picton and the ferry crossing, we had a night in Kaikoura. Larry was ready for lobster and Kaikoura is certainly the place for it. We asked for restaurant recommendations at our motel and chose Finz, located just north of the main township on Marine Parade(?). Reservations are highly recommended especially during holidays. The three of us enjoyed a starter, and entrees of bouillabaisse, steak and blue nose (delicious grouper type fish) respectively. In addition, we had a whole lobster and two bottles of wine and paid under US$100. Even if you are not spending the night in Kaikoura, it is an easy hour and a half drive from Christchurch and would be worth the trip just for dinner.

Devon Hotel, 65 Armagh Street, Christchurch

Phone: 03-366-0398

Email: bandbdevonhotel@xtra.co.nz

(website will be forthcoming)

A happy new favorite place to stay in Christchurch. We just happened on the Devon Hotel and were lucky enough to get rooms. Sandy (sorry I do not remember her last name) purchased the distressed property about 7 months ago and has been remodeling and improving as fast as possible. Still a work in progress, the house is located near the center of town on Armagh Street. The Christchurch trolley runs right outside the front door and it is within a 5 minute walk of the main shopping and tourist area. There are both share and ensuite rooms with more ensuites to come. It is a gracious old house in a perfect location, run by a lovely lady. We look forward to going back to see what she is going to do next. The rooms at the front of

the house do pick up some street noise, but the ones at the back are extremely quiet.

We paid NZ$95 for two with the bathroom facilities down the hail and $125 for a huge ensuite room. Prices include a cooked breakfast.

Milford Mariner overnight cruise, Milford Sound

Scrabble and some champagne while staying warm and dry. There is a piano if someone feels like entertaining and lots of board games. With so much common and deck space and only 60 passengers, you don't feel like you are constantly tripping over the next guest.

We were delighted with the food. Dinner began with a starter that was beautifully presented and the main dinner was served buffet style. Far from being your typical buffet meal, the food was good and there was something for every taste. We just barely had room for the dessert buffet that followed dinner. A continental breakfast was served at 7am followed by a full cooked breakfast including eggs, sausages, bacon, toast, potatoes. There is a full bar on board and individual drinks or bottles of wine can be purchased.

You can, of course, take your own with you and the crew even produced an ice bucket and ice so we could enjoy our champagne cold.

Weather in the Sound was marginal as we boarded but picture postcard perfect when we got up the next morning. Following breakfast we tied up next to the underwater observatory and those who wanted to had the opportunity to visit the exhibit (not included in the price of the cruise).

Back at the dock at 9am we couldn't believe it was over so quickly and were already talking about next time.

Price for the cruise is NZ$125. Book early and do re-confirm 48 hours ahead of the day you intend to cruise. I overlooked that little detail and it could have cost us our trip.

SIGHTSEEING ALERT:

While in Rotorua, Donna and Larry decided to visit the Whakarewarewa Thermal Fields and Cultural Center. They followed the signs to the Whakarewarewa Thermal Village where they were charged a $15 entry fee only to find out that the thermal village is no longer part of the thermal fields and culturai center. You used to be able to pay at the entrance to the thermal fields and then walk on through to the village. Now there are two separate entrances and no passing from one to the other. And Donna and Lany were not favorably impressed with the village. If you want to visit the cultural center and then the thermal fields, you need to use the entry just off the main road into Rotorua from the south.

HELP YOUR FELLOW KIWIPHILES:

Some of you have been in New Zealand during the last year or two. Have you written down some of your experiences and/or observations?

Even if your notes aren't in what you consider to be suitable condition for publication in the KIWIphile FILE, please let us be the judge of that. We'll print what seems to be interesting reading for others. So send along whatever you have. Thanks.

ROTORUA — A land of steam, fire and devastating volcanic eruptions has a striking beauty of its own

(From "Discovering the Wonders of Our World"— Reader's Digest)

To newcomers, the whiff of rotten eggs is at once pervasive and all-embracing. It emerges in wisps of steam from storm drains, cracks in the road, unusually deep, muddy hazards in the golf course, and even from flower beds in the garden. Rotoruans, tired of explaining that the reek is that of hydrogen sulphide, the very breath of volcanic activity, simply say that after a couple of days, you won't notice it. And you don't.

There are, in any case, many compensations, and those long valued. Since the Maoris invaded what is now New Zealand from Polynesia in the 14th century, the Rotorua area has been the country of the great Arawa group of tribes. They, like the Europeans later, loved the mountain-girt chain of lakes centred on Lake Rotorua itself. The waters were full of succulent fish, wildfowl of various kinds were plentiful, and the ground fertile and permanently warm. Most wonderful of all were the springs that provided water not only hot enough for bathing, but for cooking, too. About them were geysers that periodically sent spouts of boiling water soaring high into the air.

The modern tourist resort of Rotorua, built by the lakeshore, also depends upon these wonders, but suffers the attendant disadvantage of standing in the midst of the highly unstable Taupo Volcanic Zone which runs across much of tile North island. Often, underfoot, the ground rumbles and steams threateningly, though the threats are seldom carried out. Instead, just beyond the resort's centre, at Wakarewarewa, there are such crowd pullers as Geyser Flat, with its seven active geysers.

When water beneath the ground is heated by the underlying molten rock to pressurised steam, the geysers throw up columns of boiling water. Most spectacular is the Prince of Wales Feathers, a triple geyser that soars up to nearly 40ft. (12m). This generally acts as a curtain-raiser for the 100 ft. (30m) Pohutu, suggesting that the two are linked underground.in some way. Close by are pools of

boiling mud that plop, writhe and coalesce into everchanging slow-motion patterns.

About 15 miles (24km) to the southeast lies Waiotapu, whose Lady Knox Geyser has been encouraged to rise to great heights by the insertion of an iron pipe. A dose of soap flakes, administered daily, triggers a fountain of suds that shoots up to tree- top level.

Much less cheerful is Waimangu Valley, a silent, brooding desert of raw craters and boiling pools. Beyond it lie Lake Tarawera and Lake Rotomahana, above which once hung the renowned Pink and White Terraces, a delightful confection in silica exactly like water-filled tiers on a gigantic wedding cake. They vanished in the early morning of June 10, 1886, when nearby Mount Tarawera suddenly exploded with a roar that was heard over 100 miles (160km) away, and Lake Rotomahana dissolved into a towering pillar of mud and steam. There was no warning of the eruption—apart, it is said, from the appearance of a ghostly Maori war canoe that loomed upon the misty waters of Lake Tarawera a week or so earlier. The mighty explosion not only obliterated the terraces, but also buried three villages, killing 155 people.

Evidence of the disaster is only too plentiful. A cratered rent, like a giant's footprints left in deep snow, stretches for about 12 miles (20km) across Mount Tarawera, and the cliffs above the enlarged Lake Rotomahana steam perpetually. One of the villages, Te Wairoa, has been excavated and attracts visitors like a mini Pompeii.

BITS AND PIECES

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You may have been curious to learn exactly what

this "L&P" drink is that Kiwis are so enthusiastic about. Lemon and Paeroa hails from the Coromandel town of Paeroa, which would probably be virtually unknown even to New Zealanders if it wasn't for the famous drink that's a great accompaniment to Southern Comfort or an excellent thirst quencher on its own.

•

Two excellent "sweets" you might look for in NZ:

Richfield's Chocolates. And Oddfellows white

mints--excellent. Suggested by recent visitors.

•

If you want to travel to NZ and Australia with a

fun group and an experienced guide, contact pim Dodge, P0 Box 769, Frankfort, MI 49635. Ph.231-352-6013. pimd@benzie.com. Don't wait—get your reservations in right now. The tour is set for November. On their last trip to NZ in 1999, a romance bloomed between two of the passengers, which delighted everyone on the bus!

QUERY FROM EDITOR:

Does anyone know anything about the Kahukura Sacred Journeys (North Island)? I need to know. Thanks, Eva

SHIFTING HEMISPHERES -

by Douglas S. Sassaman from Life in the Cosmic-Burp Column

(printed by permission)

(Editor: this was written last year, but it's such good reading, I am including this for readers not on-line.)

I am leaving New Zealand. I'm not being deported, exported, or extradited. I didn't short-change any drug dealers, and as far as I know I'm not being hunted by the mob (assuming New Zealand has one). No extra-marital affairs to flee, no stalkers stalking, and no bad business dealings. My leaving has naught to do with the underworld, the sex trade, or the porn industry, nothing glitzy, nothing intriguing, nothing devious. As a matter of fact, now that I think about it, I couldn't give you a good reason for the leaving. I could tell you that I miss a good burrito, that the 4th of July just isn't the same, or that I can't find canned pumpkin, a vital ingredient for pumpkin pie. Maybe I would mention the "just add water" cake mixes and ready-made frosting as a reason for the leaving. "One can only live so long without Duncan Hines," I would state. But when you sit back and let the head on a beer settle, my real reasons for leaving are still no clearer than a pint of Guinness.

The leaving snuck up on me: furniture began to disappear, then the boxes arrived. My wife coordinates, I nod. We had picked a date for the leaving six months ago. It had seemed clear and logical at the time, but now as the date approaches my doubts add and subtract, multiply and divide. The twin beds in our guest bedroom/office were taken away today, now my desk looks lonely. The edge of the falls is nearing and I can't find the oar. In no particular order, I want to stay, and I want to go.

Some Things I Miss Today: Tortillas, tamales, carnitas, if it's Mexican, I miss it. Back in Denver we used to live down the road from a Mexican joint where few spoke English, but the chili rellanos and wet burritos spoke in a language all palates can understand. If the proprietor's family, who doubled as wait staff, were in the mood they would don sombreros and instruments and belt out a few canciones.

I miss outlet malls, mega-malls, Marshalls and T J Max, and that's quite an admission from someone who is genetically opposed to shopping. Wandering down shop filled corridors that lose themselves in the distance has its own allure on a rainy day; from Babbages to Benetton, Burlington to Barnes & Noble, every taste, every whim.

I look forward to sinking my teeth into a good burger. Eight ounces of prime USDA chuck, grilled to medium-rare perfection over a flame. Swiss or cheddar—it matters not—melted on top, a thick slice of tomato, no pickles please, ketchup courtesy of Heinz, a thin sliver of lettuce, and a baker quality sesame seed bun slathered with mayonnaise on either side.

Football Americana! It's what I grew up with. It's what I know, the sport I love. Bring on ESPN & ESPN II, PSN, and the eight others that have probably sprung up while I've been away. ALL sports ALL the time. While I'm on the subject, and while I profess to hate TV, those sixty cable channels sure come in handy when you settle your ass into the comfy confines of the couch.

However, if only it were about tacos and tele, then my wife and I could board the plane with silly grins and dribbly chins, but New Zealand has a way of entwining itself around your innards, and to depart is to leave a spleen or kidney behind, or in my case, a part of my soul: left to wander the green paddocks and driftwood-strewn beaches, through the tangled Pohutukawa trees on the East Cape, and down the twists and turns of the Whanganui River.

Some Things I'll Miss Tomorrow: I'll miss the savory pies. Mince, mince and cheese, steak and cheese, and potato tops. The little pie shop at Narrow Neck Beach will live on in my taste bud halt of fame.

I'll pine for my favorite spot on this Earth, Muriwai Beach. That place out along the cliff's edge next to the gannet colony cliff is at its steepest and the troubled Tasman fumes below. I'll miss standing there on that precipice, watching the great swells roll in and hurl themselves against the rocky wall beneath where the gannets nest and take flight.

I don't suppose we'll ever find a place quite like the village of Devonport. We walk to the small town that oozes lattes and fresh scones. The main street dips down to the wharf where you can catch a ferry across the harbor to downtown Auckland. We walk to beaches and atop volcanoes. I stroll with golf clubs slung across my back to the local course. It is everything that I have ever and will ever look for in a place.

But to be sure, and without question, it'll be the people that will cause our spleens and kidneys to knot up when we board that plane. To that party of four we met in the Bay of Islands over dinner, it is with regret we didn't take you up on your offer to stay at your home on Waiheke Island. We were new to New Zealand and didn't know such offers were genuine and without condition. To all the folks who bought me pints after a round of golf, let me just offer a blanket apology for over-exaggerating my handicap; and to that rotund fellow in Whakatane, I wasn't trying to brain you, I simply pulled up too soon on my wedge shot. To the proprietors of the Garden Room B&B, you made the 8000 miles to home seem a Sunday's drive. And lastly, to all our friends and acquaintances, thanks for showing us around your back yards. We'll return the favor any time.

When I look out across the Hauraki Gulf to Rangitoto volcano and beyond, when I walk past the Stone Oven Bakery in Devonport, when I roam across the countryside—ever vigilant for sheep tailings, when I look at my daughter, Kiwi born, but never to grow up in this land, when I think of all these things, I know that I shall miss New Zealand. I shall miss it a lot. But in the end, I've discovered, it doesn't matter if you hail from a chunk of ice in the Arctic, or Dubuque, Iowa, home is the worn sofa in the family room, the place your heart never forgets, and that place where relatives will baby sit for free.

(Doug Sassaman is a freelance writer and self-described humorist. He writes a twice-monthly e-mail column called "Life in the Cosmic-Burp". http://CosmicBurp.com To subscribe, send a blank email toCosmicBurp-Subscribe@listhot.com)