Volume XV, No.3

MARCH 2003

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Long marketed as the outdoors and sporting destination, we have now added adventure and action to that package for today's tourist.

It was Thomas Donne, first head of the Department of Tourist and Health Resorts in 1901, who saw New Zealand's tourism potential as "the sportsman's paradise" and set about importing game, establishing reserves for fishing and hunting and initiating licenses and quotas—laying the groundwork for today's controlled envitonment.

But it wasn't only hunting and fishing that attracted the early visitor. The first walkers were being guided on the Milford Track in 1891 and the develop- ment of reserves and National Parks such as Egmont and Tongariro added facilities and a range of tracks for both the tramper and recreational walker.

Skiing soon followed and by the 1 940s was established at Mt Ruapehu and had taken off in Queenstown and Mt Cook. This brought in a new dimension of the "winter sport". The outdoors has always been an integral and accessible part of the New Zealand culture, and has long been an attraction to our visitors.

IT'S EASY BEING GREEN

A small Bay of Islands Bed & Breakfast operation has become the first venture of its kind internationally to become officially benchmarked under Green Globe 21 standards.

The widely recognised environmental Green Globe brand is gaining popularity in the travel and tourism sectors worldwide as a quality benchmark standard and was launched in New Zealand last year.

Kerikeri couple Christine and Rod Brown adopted the scheme, involving 10 key indicators such as waste minimization, water and energy conservation, eco-system conservation and improved landuse planning and management, as a

means of extending their conservationist beliefs and contributing further to the sustainability of the environment.

The Summer House in Kerikeri is one of three New Zealand companies, including the Auckland Sheraton and Bay of Plenty guiding-company Action Stations, to become officially benchmarked under the scheme so far.

The French provincial-inspired bed and breakfast accommodation caters for the upper end of the tourism market and attracts 70% of guests from overseas. Therefore having an internationally recognized standard was important, Rod Brown says. The property's original design already incorporated various conservation features, such as its construction from lightweight aerated blocks for effective insulation, the use of a solar water system, and re-use of waste heat in the home.

"We designed the house with a lot of features which made the likes of energy conservation relatively easy to attain," he says.

The property's one hectare of citrus orchard has been restored as a spray-free, semi-organic orchard, combined with native forest planting as a natural habitat for birds. Kitchen waste is recycled as compost product and windbreak trimmings are mulched, which along with grass clippings, fertilise the citrus trees. Rod's conservation interests extend to the community where he is involved in reforesting programmes on local islands, and other planting projects.

Rod Brown says the Green Globe philosophy suited his personal interest in conservation and sustainability. "It's a formal recognition by an external agency that what I have been trying to practice has been recognized. It gives us a systematic way of ensuring that we continue these practices."

Other New Zealand businesses are enthusiastic about becoming part of a globally recognized environmental tourism brand, according to national Green Globe 21 coordinator Kristy Quickfall.

"As Green Globe grows, there'll be more of an international focus on what it can offer."

The scheme has experienced its strongest growth in New Zealand, and has been embraced by tourism ventures as diverse as the Sheraton and Heritage hotel chains, a Kaikoura-based wine company, the University of Canterbury's convention facilities, and the Victoria Park Markets in Auckland. Kaikoura township is preparing to become the first New Zealand community to be officially benchmarked, with two or three other communities predicted to follow. The Tourism Industry Association who oversees the scheme, is also undertaking the process.

"New Zealand has grasped it.. .incredibly so," Quickfall says. "I think there was a void before now. There are a growing number of people who want to ensure that this so-called green and clean environment is a reality."

Rod and Christine Brown will continue through to certification stage of Green Globe 21, and recommend other tourism operators consider adopting the scheme. "It's not as daunting as you might imagine," Rod says.

"As Green Globe becomes better-known world-wide, I'm hoping it will bring guests to our business who recognise sustainability as a worth-while thing, and want to stay with us."

SUPERSTARS IN OUR MIDST - Stuff

CRUISE CONTROL: To many Kiwis Tom Cruise is just a guy who makes movies.

Tom in Taranaki, Gwyneth in Dunedin, Lucy in a pub at Papamoa Beach—you can barely move for celebs at the moment. But are we starstruck? Well, not exactly. Sarah Stuart investigates the strange relationship between Kiwis and the stars.

It was a superstar arrival of sorts. Big black private jet. Burly security detail in ear pieces and suits. A convoy of cars. And the heavenly creature himself, dressed for his southern sojourn in stubble, shades and scruffy black jeans.

Only thing missing? The crowds—unless you count the eight people who stood near the tarmac and one couple in a car who u-turned to find out who the plane belonged to. Welcome to New Zealand, Tom Cruise.

"It was probably a PR disaster for him," says Hollywood star expert and communications lecturer Barry King. "His people are probably telling him he better get out there and do some interviews."

Cruise didn't seem to notice. He flashed that $60 million per movie grin, gave a royal wave and scurried to his private mansion like a man pursued by paparazzi. The one photographer on hand was thrilled.

It was a stellar seven days in celebrity terms Down Under. The world's highest-paid actor choppering around Taranaki. LA princess Gwyneth Paltrow with her mother actress Blythe Danner and her boyfrield Coldplay singer Chris Martin, holed up at a boutique hotel in Dunedin. Television news gave wink wink reports of star glimpses each night. The provincial newspapers ran stories and photographs every day.

Trouble is, when confronted by a star, Kiwis are less likely to gaze than quickly avert their eyes. There have been few simpering fans. No crush of screaming girls. Did someone forget to excite the natives or do New Zealanders worship differently at the celebrity altar?

"It's a New Zealand tall poppy thing," says King, head of communications at the Auckland University of Technology, who is writing a book about the Hollywood star system.

"There were some guys interviewed for TV and they said, 'Yeah, if Tom came to the beach it would be great to see him'. So, it's if he's prepared to show that he's an ordinary bloke and not standoffish then we'll accept him."

The unoccupied film set of Cruise's Last Samurai attracted more onlookers last week than his heavily guarded Oakura home. The only two teenagers who tried to breach security at the house admit they did it for a lark—"I don't even like Tom Cruise," says Carlin Hill, 16.

"We were the first people at his house though. I mean it's good he's here 'cause there are lots of film people in town—it's good for business. But we don't get that hyped up about celebrities. We're not that sort of country."

Café worker Hill knows little about Cruise, a man who was wearing a teeth-straightening brace on his 40th birthday last year, claiming his jaw had changed shape as he grew older. When cocksure Cruise hits small-town America there's no teenage cynicism to greet him—just hordes of frenzied fans desperate to breathe his air. Rich, shiny famous people make most of the US happy. But to Hill, "he's just a guy who makes movies".

New Zealanders, it seems, like their stars more down to earth. And modest. We see our own version of the famous shopping in supermarkets.

We can chat to Shortland Street stars in restaurant toilets. There's little room for ceremony.

Our biggest screen star, Lucy Lawless, stood on a half-metre-high stage surrounded by hundreds of bellowing blokes at Papamoa Beach on New Year's Eve. "That's getting to know your audience," quipped an onlooker.

"Yeah, but the reception was so, so warm," says Lawless, who on Thursday had swapped LA red carpet treatment for the Quality Inn in Palmerston North. She's been touring the country with Dave Dobbyn and they were to perform for the last time that night on Waiheke Island.

Lawless, as super-star Xena Warrior Princess, has experienced fan worship globally—how do Kiwis compare? "I think (in the US) they are better at whipping people into a frenzy," she says. "But when you meet people one-on-one they're not much different to here. It's just a human reaction. Over there people are ranked up ahead of time so you might get treated like a superstar for 15 minutes between the car and the door, but after that, well everyone is different. They either overcompensate for the way they feel and are incredibly sycophantic or incredibly brusque in order to prove they don't think you're superior."

Kiwis may be more relaxed about their stars, says Lawless—more likely to say to a tourist, "yep, that's Lucy's house down there. Go and give her a knock. She won't mind."

But, says Lawless, "she absolutely does mind. Go away."

However, since performing with Dobbyn, a New Zealand musical icon and all round nice guy, Lawless says the public has been much warmer with her.

"After Wellington a couple of people came up in a bar and said 'I really liked your performance' and that's all they wanted to say, that I did a good job, and that's awfully nice. When New Zealanders do come up it might have taken a bit more effort for them to make that move.""

Perhaps it's a dignity thing. King says New Zealanders often don't want to admit to the superiority of the person they're dealing with and gushing over a star doesn't fit with the Kiwi reserve.

"It's demeaning to the self to show that you are overwhelmed by this luminescent being in your presence."

When Paltrow visited a Moeraki restaurant on Sunday, the owner gave her a cuddle-but only because she had no idea who the blonde was.

"Can I call you back? Right now her mum and boyfriend are upstairs and I need to make coffee and hot chocolate," says Fleur Sullivan of Fleur's Place near Oamaru. Four days previously she'd offered the pale, model-thin woman who entered through the beach door a good squeeze for a welcome.

"I would never have done that if I'd known," says Sullivan. "Usually with someone famous you give them their space a bit more. But I've been building this place for nine months, haven't watched TV or seen the movies, didn't know she was here. Then I looked up at this gorgeous face and said 'you're a beautiful girl'. She looked a bit shy so I gave her a squeeze."

New Zealanders take the famous in their stride, says Sullivan, who used to own Clyde's exclusive hotel and restaurant Oliver's. "We respect their privacy I think. And we don't know them so we shouldn't act like we do. They certainly don't know us. You don't just go up to someone you don't really know."

But in fact we do. While there's little standing on ceremony where the well-known are concerned, there's a lot of friendly banter. Former celebrity hawker turned TV producer Wendyl Nissen says it's dull being friends with a New Zealand TV star.

"When you go out for coffee people come up to them all the time. Kiwis have a remarkable attitude to local celebrities. We own them. It's not like that overseas where they're regarded as untouchable."

The former Woman's Day editor says That's Life host Charlotte Dawson is often approached on the street by people wanting a chat. "It's pretty similar for Paul Holmes. He met his future wife at a restaurant when she asked him for an autograph."

But as for the international eminences in New Zealand at present, Nissen wonders who is really excited.

"Auckland is a different kettle of fish, but south of Auckland I don't know that anyone gives a shit. Aucklanders are more graspy, trying to associate ourselves with people. . . we think we're the Hollywood of New Zealand. But Kiwis are basically grounded in an odd way, happy with who they are and what they do. The fact that Tom Cruise comes into town is mildly interesting—but we're not going to go out of our way for him."

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REFUGEES ARRIVE IN NZ - xtramsn

The first batch of refugees for this year have arrived in New Zealand.

One hundred and 50 refugees, some of them from the Tampa, have flown into Auckland.

They have come from immigration detention centres in Papua New Guinea and Nauru.

Refugee Resettlement Programme Director Peter Cotton says the refugees are part of the yearly quota of 750 New Zealand agrees to take every year under an agreement with the United Nations.

NOT THE REAL SOC.CULTURE.NEW- ZEALAND FAQ - by Dave Joll, Invercargill

This is not the real soc.culture.new-zealand FAQ. The Real Thing is several hundred Kb long and is currently in dry dock undergoing a major overhaul.

This is something simple I've put together in a morning over a couple of cups of coffee.

This will be posted whenever I feel like it. I'm aiming at posting it weekly, but don't send out search parties if I forget....!

The Questions Everybody Asks:

Q: What do I have to do to emigrate to NZ?

A: Go to http://www.immigration.govt.nz/migration/.

If you have a work-related skill in high demand, or are prepared to start up a business and employ New Zealanders, or have family over here, it shouldn't be too difficult. Don't lie about any criminal convictions when applying for residence—you WILL get caught.

Q: Will I be accepted here?

A: Yes, if you want to be. Hint: you will be the new arrival, and proclamations that This Is How Things Should Be Because This Is How We Do Them At Home are not encouraged.

A respected politician many years ago suggested to new MPs to "breathe through your nose." Wise advice. About 85% of the country's population is descended from people who have immigrated over the last couple of centuries. You will meet the odd xenophobic immigrant-hater. You've got them "At Home" as well—and if you don't believe that, I've got a harbour bridge you might be interested in buying.

Q: What is the pay like in NZ?

A: Low for a first-world nation. The cost of living is correspondingly low as well.

Q: What is the crime rate like in NZ?

A: Again, low for a first-world nation. Any murder will make the front page of the newspaper. There is an election coming up so a whole lot of fanciful claims about crime rates are being made. Some years ago Clive James compiled some of the less horrific crimes from the local "Crimewatch" (e.g. "Somebody's nicked my Ford Cortina") for a bit of a laugh...

Q: Will my electric/electronic appliances work in NZ?

A: Electricity in New Zealand is 230 volts, 50 hertz, alternating current. If your appliances are from most of the world (except Japan and North America) they will probably work over here, but you will probably need plug adaptors. If your appliances are American, check the power supply to see if it has a switchable power supply. If not, they probably won't work over here without expensive adaptors. Sometimes a transformer can help, but buy it once you get here. A general rule of thumb is that unless your appliance has sentimental value, or is cutting edge technology, it is cheaper to sell it, save the cost of shipping it and buy a new one over here.

Q: Will my radio/TV pick up NZ stations?

A: Television in NZ is PAL B/G transmitted in VHF and UHF. This isn't compatible with British or American standards—Britain uses a different type of PAL. A British TV or video will get a picture but no sound. Most free-to-air channels are transmitted on VHF which Britain doesn't use. However, Australian TVs and videos are compatible with New Zealand broadcast standards. Radio transmissions are mainly AM from 531 kHz to somewhere around 1600 kHz in 9 kHz steps, and FM from about 88 MHz to about 108 MHz. (according to my radio dial, anyway—any radio techies out there?)

Q: How do I get to New Zealand?

A: See your local travel agent. New Zealand has its own national airline. It is also possible to travel here

by boat, and if you are really adventurous (and have a support crew behind you), by jet ski. It is NOT possible to travel here by car or train: New Zealand is NOT joined to Australia by the Sydney Harbour Bridge!

Q:

What do I do when I am visiting New Zealand?

A: Scenery and outdoor/adventure sports are the biggies. There is culture here, but the traditional Kiwi attitude to culture is that it is best practised between consenting adults in the privacy of their own home.

Q:

What is a Kiwi?

A: A kiwi is a flightless bird, Apteiyx australis. The bird has become one of New Zealand's national emblems, and New Zealanders often call themselves Kiwis. The Chinese gooseberry is often called "kiwi- fruit", but never in New Zealand is it called a "kiwi".

Q:

When was New Zealand discovered?

A: New Zealand was first discovered and settled by the Maori people during the 8th to 10th centuries AD. In 1642 it was discovered by a Dutch explorer, Abel Tasman, who named it Staten Landt under the impression that it was part of a Great Southern Land including another Staten Landt somewhere in the vicinity of Tierra Del Fuego. The Dutch cartographers of the mid seventeenth century disagreed and named the territory Nieuw Zeeland, after Zeeland in the Netherlands. The name, anglicized to New Zealand, stuck. The country's coastline was comprehensively mapped by the British explorer James Cook in the 1770s.

Q:

When did New Zealand become a country?

A: The first time the islands of New Zealand were considered a nation state was the 28th of October, 1835, when the British Resident, James Busby, arranged for a number of high-ranking Maori to sign a Declaration of Independence constituting themselves the "United Tribes of New Zealand." Since then, the political status of New Zealand has been as follows: from 30th January, 1840, a dependency of the Colony of New South Wales; from 3rd May, 1841, a Crown Colony; from 7th March, 1853, a self-governing Colony; from 26th September, 1907, a Dominion. Finally, on the 25th of November, 1947, New Zealand adopted the Statute of Westminster which gave the country complete autonomy in domestic and foreign affairs: in effect, complete independence.

Q:

What is the Treaty of Waitangi?

A: The Treaty of Waitangi is an agreement between the Crown and the Maori people, first signed at the Bay of Islands on the 6th of February, 1840, and later that year throughout New Zealand.

In exchange for the cession of sovereignty to the Queen of England, the Maori people were granted full, exclusive and undisturbed possession of their lands and estates, forests, fisheries and other properties.

Q:

What does the word "Pakeha" mean?

A: The word "Pakeha" has been in use since the very early days of settlement, when it referred to non-Maori in general. This was back in the days when practically all non-Maori were from the British Islands, either directly or via Australia. Since then, the meaning of the word has become rather muddied due to immigration from Asia (during the "gold rush" period of the 1860s, and again during the more cosmopolitan era from 1984 onwards), and the Pacific islands (during the labour shortages of the 1950s and 1960s). There are a number of fanciful derivations of the word doing the rounds as urban legends, most of which can be easily debunked by anyone with a modicum of knowledge of the Maori language.

Q:

How do I find my New Zealand friend/ pen-friend, with whom I have since lost touch?

A: Search the telephone directory on-line at: http://www.whitepages.co.nz

Q:

What do I drink in New Zealand?

A: The traditional New Zealand drink is beer. Popular mass-produced brands include DB Draught, Lion Red and Speight's Gold Medal Ale. New Zealand brewers also strain beer through the kidneys of a weasel to produce lager: DB Export and Steinlager are prominent names. Speight's Dark is not a bad drop. In recent years a number of small breweries have begun to produce their own brews: Emerson's Bookbinder is often recommended, although I haven't made its acquaintance yet. New Zealand also produces wine, which in my book is a shameful waste of good grape juice.

Q:

What other New Zealand newsgroups are there?

A: The whole nz. * hierarchy, for a start. If it isn't available on your news server, try http://groups.google.com . Some of the more important ones are:

nz.arts — the arts

nz.comp — computer discussion

nz.general anything goes

nz.politics — political discussion

nz.politics.arinounce — political press releases nz.soc.religion — religious discussion

nz.soc.queer gay and lesbian discussion

nz.reg. * - a hierarchy of regional groups covering the whole of New Zealand

nz.test — send your test messages HERE, please! nz.wanted — buying, selling and trading

Q: What if I have a question that isn't already answered in this FAQ?

A: Ask it in the group. That's what it's for!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

There is very little of my own work in this document. I am merely the last in a long line of people who have collated answers to questions frequently asked in soc.culture.new-zealand. Much of this information is taken from the existing FAQ and from an invaluable reference book, "The New Zealand Book of Events", devised and edited by Bryce Fraser, contributed to by A Cast of Thousands and published 1986. For contributors to the Real Thing see the current version at

ftp://rtfin.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/cultures/

new-zealand-faq.

By Dave Joll. You can contact him at:

davejoll@es.co.nz

AMERICAN TOURIST GETS MONEY BACK -

xtramsn News

A relieved American tourist has seen the good side of human nature with the return of $US9,000.

The 30-year-old lost his belt bag containing the cash while travelling between Haast and Queens- town.

After help from police and Victim Support, and extensive media coverage, the money was found in a carpark at midnight and returned to its owner.

The finder wants to remain anonymous.

The money represents the tourist's life savings, which he cashed up to come to New Zealand for a break after nursing a terminally ill friend for two years.

2003 PREVIEW—ROAD TO THE WORLD CUP

by Stephen Mangum

New Zealand looks forward to a full plate of international Super 12, and provincial rugby in 2003. The ultimate goal is indisputable: to reclaim the Rugby World Cup in November.

There were several major highlights in 2002. The Canterbury Crusaders became the first team to go undefeated through the fast-paced Super 12 competi- tion. A young Auckland team surprised almost every- one by winning the N.P.C. competition behind Carlos Spencer's leadership. The Aucklanders topped it off by defeating the Mooloomen in Waikato for the championship.

The All Blacks concluded the international season at 8-2-1. The AB's captured the Tri-Nations but were unable to wrest the Bledisloe Cup from Australia. The season wrapped up with a three match tour of Europe. Coach John Mitchell took about a dozen new players north while resting many of the injured and tired stars. The boys had a good trip nevertheless. They opened by barely losing to England 31-28 at Twickenham. Next up was a 20-20 tie with France at Paris. The tour concluded with a 43-17 win over Wales at Cardiff.

My vote for test match of the year goes to South Africa's brilliant 33-31 comeback win over Australia at Ellis Park in Johannesburg. The Spring- boks grasped a victory on Werner Greeff's scintillating last second converted try. Remember Greeff at the World Cup. This guy can really motor and has some great moves.

Top player of 2002 included Richie McCaw and Chris Jack of New Zealand, George Smith and Chris Latham of Australia, Greeff and Joe Van Niewkerk of South Africa, and Jonny Wilkinson of England.

New challenges are upcoming in 2003 and beyond. Southern Hemisphere fans are becoming a bit tired of the Tri-Nations format and would like to see a greater variety of test matches. The advent of professionalism in 1996, exemplified by the Super 12, has generated tremendous enthusiasm for such top-notch competition. However, the players and rugby union officials of many nations acknowledge that too many matches are increasing injuries and exhaustion. Compromises are being worked out to allow the players more rest.

The All Blacks 2003 schedule, pre-World Cup, along with the Tri-Nations are:

June 14 vs England at Wellington

June 21 vs Wales at Hamilton

June 28 vs France at Christchuch

July 12 Australia vs. S. Africa at Capetown

July 19 NZ vs South Africa at Pretoria

July 26 NZ vs Australia at Sydney

Aug 2 South Africa vs Australia at Perth

Aug 9 South Africa vs NZ at Dunedin

Aug 16 Australia vs NZ at Auckland

More news will be forthcoming on the Rugby World Cup in the next issue.

Until next time, Play On!

NEW JERSEY ARTIST THINKS GLOBALLY AND ACTS LOCALLY - The Creative Line

Judy Wray of East Brunswick, New Jersey, is an artist and conceptualist who herself is a work in progress. She has been since the age of six, growing up in New Brunswick, when she crafted a complete carousel out of colored plasticene clay. Her mother loved it and made a poster of it, which remained a constant reminder of her earliest artistic achievement.

Her latest of many programs involves the decoration and placement of PVC pipe, which started two years ago as a local program with school children but now has become an international event, joining with a similar program which coincidentally started in New Zealand.

New Jersey met New Zealand in a convergence of programs from January 9 to January 21 at Lincoln Center's Cork Gallery, a space for community groups to exhibit their art. The separate programs are called "Pipe Dreams, N.J." and "The Great Pipe Dream, N.Z."

Organizer of the New Zealand project is Henry Sutherland of Christchurch, N.Z., who discovered Pipe Dreams, N.J. while searching the Internet for projects on a similar theme. Twenty Canterbury, New Zealand, schools used PVC pipe and recycled plastic to make fantastical botanical sculptures and a forest of purple plastic piping in the New Zealand project.

"The New Zealand pieces will tour other galleries and schools on the U.S. eastern seaboard after the exhibition closes in New York and will eventually be donated to schools in the area," said Wray.

"We hope to make connections between the children in Christchurch and children in U.S. schools so that these creative dreamers and decision makers of tomorrow will think globally and work locally," said Wray.

Commented Sutherland, "It's just the beginning of an international relationship with other artists in the U.S. and elsewhere."

COUNCIL SHOWS CHRISTIAN COMPASSION From XTRAMSN

A Christian group promoting its faith through bogus parking tickets is creating headaches for motorists and Auckland City parking wardens.

The group has tucked hundreds of mock tickets under windscreens around the central city and in Mt. Albert.

They look like the real thing, but on the back, bear a message about God's Law and that Jesus stepped in and paid the fme 2,000 years ago,

The Council's parking services manager, Wes Hogman, says some motorists have sent the council cheques to cover the mock fine.

He says the group is illegally using the Auckland City logo, but as long as the prank stops immediately, the council will forgive the bogus ticket trespassers their sins, in the spirit of Christian compassion.

BACKPACKER NEWS

Remember the Backpacker News published in New Zealand by Warwick Finn? Finn has moved to Auckland area now, and has a website at http://www.backpackersnews.co.nz/about_contact.asp.

For those without internet access, here is a recent article:

There's something vaguely ridiculous about trudging through a field full of newborn lambs, wearing a full wetsuit, gumboots, a miner's hat, big battery pack and more ropes and dippy things than a round-the-world yacht.

Yet here I was. On a sunny Saturday afternoon, preparing to go down into the bowels of the voluptuous rolling green hills of the Waitomo countryside.

Not being the most sporting of people—the most adventurous a normal Saturday is likely to get is a spot of gentle shopping followed by an ale or three—this was a (surprisingly welcome) shock to the system.

There are three of us on the trip and once we're safely strapped up into giant baby-stroller harnesses, we are shepherded to the top of a rocky crevasse. First up is the 100ft abseil down into the caves. "Don't look down," yells Marcus our guide. We immediately peer down into the gloom—it's a long way to the bottom. Feigning bravery I elect to go first. This is mostly so the others can't see me slither inelegantly down the rock face.

When all three of us (and Marcus) are back on solid ground (albeit solid ground far beneath the real ground) we gather up an inner tube each, switch the torches on atop our miner's hats and splash straight into the icy water, making our way back into the far reaches of the cave.

When we get as far as we could go, we turn our lights off, recline on our rubber rings and look up at the glow-worms that cover the roof of the cave. No picture or photo can do the sight justice, and some say it looks a little like coming in to land at a big city at night—little pinpricks of light nestling against a relief of pitch black. Bang! goes Marcus's inner tube against the water and as though God had suddenly turned the lights on, the glow-worms glow brighter, thinking they can hear an insect coming in to land.

Glow-worms inhabit shady protected places with a high humidity. In order to survive they build traps of vertical hanging silk threads, studded with sticky droplets to catch small insects like mosquitoes, midges and fruit fly that are attracted by the light produced by the larvae.

The eerie blue glow of the larvae is the result of a reaction between body products and oxygen in the larvae's excretory tubes. To the average person's sight, the light appears more blue than green, but the colour is actually in the green colour spectrum.

Science lesson over, we float through the cave in the pitch black—looking up at the roof, ricocheting gently off the rocks at either side of the cave, twirling around and around in the rapids until, with all senses awry, we don't know which way we were going or where we've just been.

The adventure hasn't fmished yet though. Next up is potholing—and we get down on our bellies and wriggle through rock openings the size of dinner plates that open up into cathedral-like chambers, dripping with stalactites. The break for chocolate and hot drinks after getting so down and dirty comes as a godsend.

By the end I must admit that I am feeling pretty cocky: Splashing into the water headfirst, wriggling around in the mud and nonchalantly diving onto my rubber ring to negotiate the dark current. Move over Laura Croft . . . here comes the next big action hero.

Unfortunately this illusion is promptly shattered when we came to the last challenge—climbing up the rock face out of the caves, which is a good sight harder than it looks.

Adrenaline still pumping from the climb, the feeling of exhilaration at the top is palpable. And job done, we are taken back to base to peel off the soggy wetsuits, dive beneath a hot shower and reflect on what a great day it had been: Challenging, interesting and above all, brilliant fun.

For further information phone Rap, Raft n Rock on 0800 228372.

Camilla Doodson, UK

LOTR EXHIBIT AT TE PAPA

The Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa, is extending its Lord of the Rings exhibition because of demand. The exhibition, which opened in December, was due to close on February 28 but will now run until March 30. To date about 90,000 people have viewed the props and costumes from Peter Jackson's two films. Chief executive Seddon Bennington said it was on track to become Te Papa's single most popular temporary exhibition.

TRAMPING 1917-STYLE

15 January 1917, Ellen Jenkins' Diary, Milford Track:

"We started in the rain, on the 'Finest Walk in the World The track was beautiful, and our spirits rose, as we sped along the soft springy earth, stopping at various points to admire the wonders..."

Some things don't change and there were still mosquitoes and sandflies in the early days, as Ellen notes: "The sandflies got worse and worse—veils and gloves were necessary all the time..."

One of the first group of women to be guided over the track, skirts, packs, petticoats and all, by Guide Dr. Borrie, it was an eight-day round trip with plenty of rain, mosquitoes and blisters for Ellen Jenkins' group. Not to be deterred, the group of five young women went on to walk the Routeburn via the Dore Pass. On finding the view over Lake McKenzie, Ellen writes: "That view compensated for all the rain and rough track, the bruises, blisters and sandflies."

A comment from the Routeburn guide, a Mr. Jock Edgar, highlights the obvious hardship of the conditions these women experienced. "Considering the flooded start of creeks and the nature of the track, the fact of Miss Andersen 's party being real good walkers and high spirits under all circumstances, made the tour from Glade House to Queenstown a pleasure from start to finish."

Things have changed more than a little since Ellen Jenkins walked the track. Women wear shorts and leggings, there's no return trip and walkers can even choose to enjoy the comforts of home (complete with no backpack to carry) or 'rough it' in the huts.

But some things don't change—the views, the sandflies and the popularity of the world's wonder walk.

HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND

The New Zealand Historic Places Trust organization publishes Heritage this Month, a newsletter about important events in their calendar on-line. You may receive their newsletter by sending your email address to: news@historic.org.nz.

Here are two interesting items from the February issue: "Visitors to Rawene (Northland) needn't look far to experience one of the Hokianga's best kept secrets.

Rawene's historic gem, Clendon House, is located only a stone's throw from the central town, and is the perfect place to spend an absorbing hour or two.

Built in the 1860s for James Reddy Clendon, one of New Zealand's earliest traders and shipowners, the house is operated by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust and is open to the public.

James Clendon was an important identity in the Bay of Islands where he lived prior to moving to Rawene. In the 1830s Clendon supported James Busby (based in Waitangi) in his efforts to unite the northern tribes to prevent the Frenchman, Baron Charles de Thierry, establishing himself as a 'sovereign chief of the Hokianga.' Clendon was also empowered to act as the United States Consul in New Zealand at about that time.

Clendon House in Rawene is open to the public between 10am and 4pm on Saturday, Sunday and Monday during summer and offers a fliscinating insight into early life in the Hokiana."

A second item: "Join the Northland Branch Committee and explore the Kauri Coast riding Taylor Made Tours purpose-built 6WD beach vehicle 'Big Foot.'

Pass through former kauri gum fields, the Mahuta Gap onto Rapiro Beach. Heading northward, visit Chase's Gorge, and Bayly's Beach. See the site of the 1807 battle of Moremonui, important as a beginning to the 'Musket Wars'. The trip will pass Omarami and the Kai Iwi Lakes, then go by road to Trounson Kauri Park for lunch where you'll learn more about both the history and natural history of this amazing place. See Kaihu with its registered hotel and historic church before returning to Dargaville."

From WYSIWYG NEWS - by Brian Harmer

(Copyright by Brian Harmer, reprinted by permission)

Deep mourning descends over the land, at least among those who have bought into the slightly spurious "Loyal" programme designed to get national support behind Team New Zealand in the America's Cup. In race one "our" boat suffered catastrophic equipment failures and had to withdraw after about 25 minutes. The next day after leading by 90 metres and about 30 seconds on almost every leg for a very large proportion of the race, the allegedly faster boat, NZL82 was flat out steamrollered by Alinghi which came home seven seconds ahead. Gloom! This is like being beaten at Kapa Haka competitions by the Inuit! The media continue to foment hostility towards the Kiwis sailing for Alinghi. A newspaper cartoon suggested that the Swiss boat would go even faster if each of the Kiwis aboard were to jettison their 30 pieces of silver.

Fortunately the Black Caps have applied some small salve to the national hurt. When I fell asleep one evening, the South African innings at the World Cup had just concluded at a formidable 306/5. Done! Dog- tucker, I thought. What a surprise and delight to wake to the news that Steven Fleming had at last lived up to his promise and led the way to an unlikely victory with a stunning century of his own.

Back to the neighbourhood! On Saturday, Mary and I spent a very pleasant evening with friends on the Kapiti Coast. On the way back in a glorious summer morning, we enjoyed the warmth of a bright calm day, and enjoyed the visual aspects of white- golden grass on the rolling hills between Waikanae and Paremata. I imagine the farmers in the region are less pleased as the moisture content is way too low for good farming outcomes, and the fire risk is booming upwards by the day. Nevertheless, the long,, golden stalks seem to soften the tortured folds of the steep hills that squeeze the road and rail corridors against the West coast surf.

On this occasion there was little more than a gentle swell foaming over the rocks, and in the far South West, the only clouds seemed to be cloaking the South Island from view. We decided to return through Gray's road, skirting the Northern shore of Pauatahunui Inlet. As always, I keep half an eye open for the white faced herons striding imperiously through the shallows looking for fish life.

Despite the light breeze, a herd, gaggle, or other collective noun of windsurfers drifted across the far South Eastern reach of the harbour. A jet ski left a foaming scar across the otherwise calm face of the water, and the little vertical plume of engine cooling water created the impression of a small impatient rooster racing across the yard. In the last kilometre before Gray's road joins the Paekakariki Hill road, it is impossible not to be struck by the way the Eastern- most slopes of the Southern shore, once gently rolling farmland, are now just an extension of the most afflu- ent suburb of Porirua City. Urban creep does not refer to some sleazy guy in the city, but to the inexorable swallowing of pleasant rural landscape by the ever growing cities.

LETTER BOX

Got your latest Kiwiphile before I head to NZ for a 3 month explore. Great issue again!

I will be staying at a historic Homestead in Palmerston, Otago, in February. The place is owned by a great granddaughter of Rutherford and she has a museum containing some of his past (Please see the Palmerston website for details). I will let you know how it is after I have stayed there and also send you some other tidbits.

Cheers. Eric McFerran

(Eric McFerran, President, New Zealand Travel, Inc. 118 South Bellevue Ave., Langhorne, PA 19047 USA.

Tel: 215 741 5155. Reservations toll free from USA/Canada:

1 800 367 5494. Fax 215 741 5156.

E Mail: nztravel@aol.com

Readers might want to check out Friars' Guide to New Zealand Accommodation at http://www.friars.co.nz. Information at that website is from their book Friars' Guide to New Zealand Accommodation for the Discerning Traveller available from Amazon.com.

The next Wearable Art Award Shows are 12,13,14 September and 19,20,21 September 2003. I would suggest that anyone visiting NZ during that time would have a very memorable experience in attending the show, but they will need to purchase tickets well in advance. They are not likely to be able to get in on the days of the shows. Otherwise, I'm sure that the "Complex" will be most entertaining and worth including during a Nelson visit at any time.

Charles Eggen, Oregon

TO THE SHOW

They tied a halter round my head,

They pushed me here and there,

They patted me and prodded me,

And taught me how to lead.

They brushed at me and scrubbed at me,

They lathered me with soap,

They clipped my hair and fizzed my tail

And polished horns and hooves.

They took me in a jolting truck

Onto the Showground gay,

Then washed and brushed and spruced some more

And fed me wisps of hay.

They led me round and round the ring

While knowing judges stared — But I was not a champion,

And came home —just a cow!

(By Muriel Attewill. 1947, New Zealand Farm and Station Verse)

HELP YOUR FELLOW KIWIPHILES!

Some of you have been in NZ during the last year or so. Please send along your notes, your memories, your suggestions to help others in their planning. THANKS.

KIWIphile FILE

Published quarterly by Eva Trapani

Copyright 2003 by Eva Trapani