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SUICIDE WITH A HAPPY ENDING
Some
readers may have seen ESPN
TV channel's recent presentation on
New
Zealand bungi
jumping.
Just watching the jumpers on the TV screen
was
enough to
make
the adrenaline rise.
Once only young men from .a
jungle-dwelling
tribe
did
the
bungi
jump
to
prove
they were ready
for
the mantle
of
manhood; now hundreds
of
young, and not
so
young (one
as old
as 80),
of
both
sexes
are lining up to take the
leap.
The
tribal way
was to build a
high
bamboo
structure, tie one
end of
a springy vine to one's ankles, secure the other to the structure and leap, hoping to bounce away
from
the ground just
before
the seemingly inevitable
moment
of
impact.
Near Queenstown,
the vine has
been replaced by an elasticized rope, and the bamboo is now a wooden bridge 140 feet above the turbulent waters of
the
Kawarau River. The participants
seem
to delight
in taking the
plunge to
bounce like
so many yo-yos in the face of death. Ten-thousand jumps have been made so far.
Each of the brave is carefully weighed to determine how long the white latex bungi rope should be to insure he or she stops just short of impact. To prevent bruising or chaf-
ing,
a
towel
is wrapped around the ankles and
the
rope then tied
firmly on
top.
The
other end of the length is attached to a metal frame bolted to the bridge.
Fighting the urge to back out, the jumper inches forward to the edge
of the bridge, eyes glued on the swirling waters and sharp rocks below.
"Look straight out and jump out as far as you can," shouts A. J. Hackett, the young New Zealander who has brought this off-the-edge sport to Queenstown. Then he begins the count— down--"Five... four.., three... two... one... JUUUMP!"
Hackett, the veteran of many such leaps (the most famous off the Eiffel Tower in Paris), describes the sensation of bungi jumping as "choice"--an
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intrinsically New Zealand term loosely translating as "better than fantastic." Others say it's "suicide with a happy ending." The most daring jumpers do the "kiss of death" jump, which dips them for a moment into the 45 degree water.
In other parts of the country, the Railways Corporation has placed all its bridges and viaducts out of bounds for bungi jumping and will pros- ecute anyone who ignores the ruling. The Corporation had been approached by several organizations wanting to run commercial jumping from its bridges and viaducts. The Corporation did not want to appear to be "killjoys," but bungi jumping from railway structures was incompatible with operating a safe commercial railway.
You might like to know that this dalliance with death costs just $48. Bookings can be made on arrival in NZ by calling (0294)29—138.
NEW ZEALAND
PARKS AND
RESERVES
More than 5 million hectares (1 hectare=2.47 acres) or nearly 19% of NZ's total area, are under some form of' official protection for their nat- ural, scientific, historic, cultural or recreational values. Twelve National Parks, 19 Forest parks, and nearly 4,000 reserves have been set aside. This includes more than 3,000 hectares of protected public land, some of which is open to the public.
For information about holiday opportunities in New Zealand's national parks, maritime parks, forest parks and other protected areas, contact any office of the Department of Conservation. Be sure to ask for the beautifully prepared 21-page booklet, See New Zealand.
For the Maori people the land of Aotearoa/NeW Zealand is part of their spiritual identity——an expression of their mans or prestige. According to legend, Rangi, the sky father, and Papa, the earth mother, were the first parents of the Maori people. The land and the people were one. Aotearoa is the land, the Maori are the people of the land (tangata whenua).
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It was the Maoris' strong sense of identity with their land and their forebears that led to the creation of the first national park in NZ. During the 1880's the Tuwharetoa people of the Central North Island feared that their ancestral mountains, the imposing volcanic peaks of Tongariro, Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe, would be taken by European settlers.
Te Heuheu IV Tukino, paramount chief of the Tuwharetoa, offered the mountain tops to the government as a gift to the people of New Zealand to be held in trust by them for all time. In 1887 the government accepted the mountains and they became the nucleus of Tongariro National park, the first in NZ and fourth in the world.
A BREATH OF FRESH AIR
(from Maggie Kerrigan, NZTP)
As the current debate about atmospheric pollution heats up across the United States, New Zealand suggests politicians, environmentalists, the media and the general public visit "down under" for a breath of fresh air.
New Zealand is renowned for its clear air, as well as its clean and pristine countryside. It even has a Government-run Department of Con- servation dedicated to protecting the environment.
"Visitors constantly remark on the quality of our air, our green landscapes and the lack of pollution," says John Rasmussen, Dir. of the NZ Tourist
&
Publicity Office in North America.
Rasmussen, who is based in Los Angeles, says New Zealanders cherish their country of tidy cities, open beaches, towering mountains, lush rainforests, and crystal-clear rivers and lakes.
"As a people, we are immensely proud whenvisitors congratulate us on our care for our environment. We are clearly anxious to safeguard our natural heritage against pollution, not just for the economic benefits of tourism, but also for the sake of our children and the children of the world."
Mr. Rasmussen says perhaps the most poignant words the travel industry has on the protection of the environment come from Sir Edmund Hillary, New Zealand adventurer and dedicated conservationist.
"Sir Edmund believes the future of planet earth rests in the hands of the travel industry, which he says must lead in the preservation of the earth's fragile, natural envirments."
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AIR NEW ZEALAND ENHANCEMENTS
Next time you fly to Auckland or Christchurch on Air New Zealand, you'll notice a few changes. Economy class passengers will be served on new white laminated European-designed dinnerware, ringed in Air New Zealand blue, along with new menu selections and award-winning wines. In addition, all aircraft interiors have been completely refurbished in a year-long program of upgrading.
In First and Business class, passengers will dine on the finest New Zealand produce served on new gold Koru-trimmed, classic white Royal Doulton china. Lighter,healthier foods will be emphasized in the new menu selections.
AMERICANS IN PARADISE
(*3 of a series)
Tom Kroos has a small American flag stuck among some books on his desk at the Department of Conservation office in Queenstown. Still undecided where he wants to spend the rest of his life, he usually goes back to his home state of Wisconsin every 18 months. Between visits he exchanges cassette tapes with his closest relatives. He says the first two years were the hardest.
The only things Tom really misses in his adopted land are American sports and a few of his favorite foods. On his first return trip to NZ he toted with him 125 pounds of food items from the US. Now, however, he can find almost anything he wants in Queenstown if he looks hard enough.
Tom is tall, rangy and loose- limbed, in what might be called a "typical" Yankee manner, with hair and mustache attractively shaggy. He has a direct gaze and a comfortable mid- western accent.
Kroos, as yet unmarried, decided to come to New Zealand eight years ago to check out what was going on in his field of work. During his 6-week visit he fell in love with the country and never even got on over to Australia as he had planned.
Just before leaving for home, he saw a job notice for fisheries officers in Auckland. He walked into the Conservation Office in Wellington and said he wanted to apply for the job. They needed additional application material, which he sent to them upon his return to the US, and six weeks later he was instructed to proceed with working papers. Since his recommendations were excellent and no Kiwis were immediately available for the job, he was in.
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He took a job in Queens town two years ago, and wonders why it took him so long to get to the South Island. Most of all, he loves the beauty of NZ, the clean air and the climate, the closeness to nature, closeness to the sea, and the overall quality of life available there. He enjoys the attitude of the people, noting that they are much like Canadians, relaxed and easier-going than the typical wound- up, on-the-go US citizen.
He advises any American who is considering a move to NZ to do a lot of background work. Don't come in ignorance about the country. Be sensitive to the culture. Remember it isn't like living in the US--there aren't 50 or 100 channels on TV!
Kroos says there are distinct advantages to both countries, but New Zealand has given him career opportunities he would never have had in the US. America has always been known as the land of opportunity, and in many respects it is, but in NZ there are still frontiers not yet explored. For example, present-day pioneers take helicopters into remote mountain areas. This is the only way to investigate certain lakes and rivers that have never been seen before by anyone.
His job has forced Kroos to employ great diplomacy at times. He has found New Zealanders shooting protected ducks or catching salmon in restricted areas, and they often resent an American coming up and telling them what they should do. He says there are 5,000,000 mallard ducks in NZ (same as in the US), but only about 60,000 people to hunt them in season.
In answer to my question, Tom said, yes, along the NZ coast, wetland mallards soon learn when they hear shots, that they can duck out to the ocean for a day or two--or head for a city park where they'll be safe.
HELl-SKIING IN THE HARRIS
MOUNTAINS
Don't you love this description of New Zealand:
...."here in the Nuclear Free South Pacific, home of the invincible All Black rugby team, first Mount Everest climber Sir Edmund Hillary, the audacious America's Cup challengers and 70 million sheep. These seemingly tiny islands are also blessed with our magnificent Southern Alps, larger than the Alps of France, Italy and Switzerland combined." This introduces the 1989 handbook about Heli-skiing in the Harris Mountains, Queenstown-Wanaka. Get brochure from your travel agent, or; Wanaka Booking Centre, P.O. Box 177, Wanaka NZ. Tel. (02943) 7930.
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Art by
Mike Lawler
THE MOERAKI BOULDERS
It's worth your while, unless you're on a fast trip through New Zealand's South Island, to see the Moeraki Boulders. These immmense rounded rocks have come into view as the sea has eroded the cliffs behind the beach. Some can still be seen as they ever so slowly emerge from the cliffs, like giant dinosaur eggs in the process of being laid.
You will find these geological curiosities 38 km. south of Oamaru, 80 km. north of ,Dunedin, just off Highway 1 between the seaside villages of Moeraki and Hampden. As you walk down to the beach you might imagine you're seeing giant turtles washed up on the sand.. In actuality these boulders, weighing several tons, were formed by concretion and not by wave action. Lime salts gathered in the mudstone that formed on the ocean floor
about
60 million years ago. Themudstone- calcite combination hardened into balls, which increased in size as the process continued. The ribbing which gives them a net-like surface is an extrusion of yellow calcite.
In early days the smaller boulders were carried of f as scientific curios or souvenirs, leaving only the largest and heaviest. Now the area is protected as a scientific reserve.
NZ ON PBS
Without a
lot
of fanfare, 13
major
public television stations all over the US have banded together into a Pacific Rim Co-Production Assn., with non-commercial TV networks in Australia, New Zealand and Canada. The venture is designed to stimulate cooperative programming among the four nations. Two productions are already in
process;
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--
Power in the Pacific
. Australian Broadcasting is the senior partner, with KCET (Los Angeles) as the US co-producer, a 4-part documentary about the shifting balance of military and economic power among Pacific Rim nations. This will air on PBS in the fall of 1990.
--Fire on the Rim. KCTS in Seattle is the senior partner, working with Television New Zealand, in a 4-part series exploring how the common threat of seismic and volcanic disasters affect the people and cultures of the Pacific. This series is planned for national airing in the fall of 1991.
Two other projects in the developmental stage are
Islands
, a natural-history series from Television NZ, exploring life on the Pacific Islands; and
Pacific Rim in Performance
, featuring performers from Pacific Rim nations.
LETTERS
TO THE EDITOR:
We thoroughly enjoyed our tour of NZ. The weather was a bit overcast and drizzling rain but one can't change that.
Meeting Roberta Conway at the airport (Christchurch) was neat, and she took us to Eliza's Manor, a great B&B. Sunday evening we stayed at Harry and Hillary Evison's on Mistake Road. What an ocean view they have! The only
place we had no reservations was at Franz Josef, but we got a super rate at a beautiful THC. We stopped in
Arrowtown and drove to Nery Howard's off the Shotover River, again with spectacular views.
We really had a great day to cruise Milford Sound. In Dunedin we found the Sutherlands at Magnolia House most gracious, and even had menus and candlelight dinner. Our next stop was a farm stay outside Ashburton with the Macauleys. Then home on Air New Zealand with many fond memories.
The Muellers, St.Louis MO
I received my first copy of KIWI- phile FILE last week and enjoyed it very much. It was written in such a descriptive way that I could easily visualize all of the lovely New Zealand scenery in my mind's eye. I look forward to reading more issues, and learning a bit about the political scene down there if anyone might have some insight on that.
D. Welbourne, Van Nuys CA
We went to Victoria, BC for National Rhododendron Meeting in April and met 30 New Zealanders. They were on a tour that after the meeting would take them across Canada, on to England, through Europe and on home. We got to
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meet Mr. and Mrs. Hugh Faning of Auckland that we had met in New Plymouth and Brian Morris who has a beautiful garden in Little River NZ, called Riverwood
Garden
as well as a wool shop in Christchurch called Interior
House
.
He was one of the main speakers at convention. Anyone wanting quality wool could look him up in Christchurch and mention our name.
We heard from a friend we visited
in South Island, Katie Henderson. She said they had had a wonderful summer-- lots of sunshine and a great growing season. Although the interest rate is extremely high--20% I think--in return they get no pollution, no flukes and all is clean and green.
Betty Wise, Charleston WV
Enclosed is our check for renewal...wouldn't want to miss a copy. A motel manager with whom we had become acquainted on our previous trip in '86 was surprised that someone in the States so loved his country that they would go to the trouble of writing a newsletter about it. (Ed.- typical Kiwi unpretentiousness).
One thing we'd hoped to try was the whale/dolphin trip out of Kaikoura.. .but when we found out that it was a 3—hr. trip in a 21—ft. rubber inflatable, we passed and instead took a similar trip out of Akaroa which was a 52-ft. catamaran (a lot more comfortable for "seniors"). This trip is mostly in the harbor which is
relatively calm.
Mercury Bay was lovely...and by the way did get a picture of the
"Mercury Bay Club". Were you aware
that the "club" is an old green car? We video all of our trips, and the lady from the information office kindly called the home where the car is garaged. They backed it out so we were
able to take some shots of it!
we understand that the NY judge decreed that the San Diego Yacht Club should return the America's Cup to NZ, but of course they appealed the ruling. We bought a replica of the cup made by a glassblower in whitianga. Couldn't resist bringing it home.
Air New Zealand treated us wonderfully. Knew that they had the
youngest fleet and that added to the security we felt. Really mortgaged
ourselves and went Business Class. It's the "only way" to go on a long trip! Took economy to Hawaii, then Business the rest of the way. Air New Zealand rolls out the red carpet!
Charlotte Hoffman, SanSimeon CA
Actually answered your letter and
piece of
warm whimsy long ago. Must
be somewhere in my litter. Do hope you will make it to
the
Castle of the
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Scotsman. It could quite easily be a Welsh or an Irish host. We ring the changes a bit--just to pull a few legs, frustrated thespian, I guess.
We took our Coach and Horses to the schools of Christchurch beginning of May. Created some interest going through the middle of town. Next Jan. we negotiate Arthurs Pass. Whilst over there we will buy or beg for cattle, bring them home and flog(?) them for my Outward Bound Trust. Have $12,000 in the kitty.
Since your informants were here (Ed.: see
Dec.
'88 issue of
K.F.), we
have,
nearly completed a mud brick 3- unit
B&B affair. A
couple of turns on
my antique phone will bring you a serving wench, bacon and eggs. Almost certainly she will be from another land. Working here now we have 3 Americans, 1 Englishman, 1 Kiwi suffering from a partial stroke. Next week a mademoiselle from Toulouse, here on her 4th visit. Keith from Kansas is doing his second stint of 4 months. He helped build the coach 3 years ago. Joel Conrad from San Diego was here 7 months; coming back from Australia in Oct., bringing a Swiss lass who can cook.
Wolfram Kohler from Germany comes in Sept. and the tentative plan is to build a brewery. Lot of work making a brewery.
I have a quick rapport with most people, but it's just that much quicker with people from your country! Met heaps of them sailing in and out of NY on the Mary and the Lizzie. Did it for 13 months. Time to paddle out to the mail, I guess.
John Macfarlane,The Staging Post,
Hawkeswood R.D., Parnassus HZ (John enclosed a fascinating brochure giving details about his farm - - the tucker, sports, farming activities, crafts, etc. You may get a copy from us for $1 and an SASE.)
DRIVING CREEK RAILWAY
Two
of our subscribers discovered a unique little adventure on the Coromandel Peninsula, about 2 km. north of Coromandel Township. The Driving Creek Railway is presently
•over a km. long and is set in rugged, regenerating native bush. It climbs up steep grades, over 3 high trestle bridges, a double switchback, a spiral and 2 short tunnels.
The railway system was largely hand-built since 1975 by owner Barry Brickell. A 5O-min. round trip is offered to the public on a daily basis through the NZ summer months. Fares are not charged, but a donation is politely requested at the end of the
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trip. Interesting historical information is given out, as well as information on the potteries and on the associated forest restoration project. Brickell is one of New Zealand's best known potters.
A native tree planting program, instigated by Brickell on his 60-acre property and now supported by the National Trust, is actively reintro- ducing the great variety of forest species that once grew in the area.
THE WORLD HERITAGE CONVENTION
In a unique approach to conservation of the treasures of the earth, the World Heritage Convention is now protecting more than 200 cultural and natural sites, such as the Great Barrier Reef, Stonehenge, the Taj Mahal, the Grand Canyon, and Egypt's archaeological treasures.
The organization is now composed of over 100 nations determmined to keep their most priceless wonders in- tact for their children's children. Each country in the organization maintains sovereign rights over its World
Heritage sites but has an obligation to protect them. A revolving committee
of 21 of the member nations selects
from the proposed sites the ones they
consider most deserving.
New Zealand joined the convention in 1984, and both. Fiordland and the Mount Cobk/Westland National parks have been declared World Heritage parks. Now there is action to add Mount Aspiring and the public forests of South Westland, as yet unprotected, to form a single Southwest New Zealand World Heritage Park. If this happens, some of the world's rarest plants and animals, and one of the most magnificent natural landscapes in the world will be preserved forever.
JOHN'S 2-CENTS WORTH
A few subscribers have noted that we have no political news in our KIWIphile FILE. Believing that there may be others who feel the same way, I (John) am going to venture in a direction not previously envisioned by us to be a likely subject for our newsletter, namely: "NZ Politics in Relation to the Rest of the World."
I would be happy to maintain a personal correspondence with any reader who has strong political views regarding the NZ scene. I have def i- nite ideas on the matter, so if you
want to get involved, be
prepared for
frankness.
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Having said that, I wane to assure you that I am fair-minded and sensitive to readers' feelings, understanding completely that we all may have been "seasoned" by domestic media and politics. I am what one would call an independent thinker. I love my country; however, I am aware that oftentimes we do not get all the facts from our media.
As my "THERE NOW! I'VE SAID IT AND I'M GLAD" start-off salvo, let me make a statement: THE
ANZUS TREATY
WAS NOT
DESIGNED
TO
HELP
NEW
ZEALAND !
If you find that salvo arguable, write me and we can start a great correspondence. If you'd like me to continue this conversation here in the newsletter, I MUST receive at least 25 letters-—24 will not do it. Otherwise, I will respond by mail to each letter.
John Trapani
KIWI BITS
AND
BITES
* One of the best motels John and I have ever stayed in anywhere is the Coastal Motor Lodge in Thames (Coromandel Peninsula). P.O. Box 226, Thames, NZ (tel. (0843) 86—843.) Same owners for 15 years. 1 1/2 hr. from Auckland Airport. Chalet units, sea and landscape views. Superior. $ N.Z. Travelpass, which includes travel by bus, ferry and rail, is sold in 8, 15 & 22 day packages. Prices range from $Usl6o to $US255 and can be bought through a travel agent.
* You may be happy to learn that you can enjoy delicious paviova with little work or worry by ordering pavlova mix from Norm Thompson, P.O. Box 3999, Portland OR 97208. Telephone sales representatives can answer questions and process your order if you call (800) 547—1160.
* Land of the Kiwi, a 60-minute NATURE presentation on PBS television recently, let us know among other facinating facts, that the now extinct Moa sometimes grew to a height of 12 feet. Another astonishing bit of information is that the Southern Alps rise 7 inches each year.
* Want real comfort on your Visit to HZ? Contact NZTP for a beautiful brochure titled, New Zealand in Style. It's all about exclusive retreats and sporting lodges, and gives information about prestige vehicle rentals and chauffeured limmousines.
* Also from NZTP, be sure to get your copy of What's On In 1990 and Passenger Transport Summary, which gives schedules of all HZ transport.
* If you have a well-developed sense of adventure, you might be interested in YHA activities in the heart of South Island's Central Otago,
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which in this case means Wanaka. Included are mountain bike trips, basic rock climbing, kayaking, wholesome cookery. Write to Chris Hughes, Down to Earth Adventures, YHA Hostel, 181 Upton St., Wanaka, HZ.
* A note from a reader: "I thought you might want to mention this shop in your K.F. I bought a sweater here. Their knitwear is not cheap--sweaters are about $US80 to $US250, BUT they are gorgeous. All sweaters are hand- knit, a combination of wonderful yarn, knitting and really contemporary style. If I lived in a cooler climate I would have bought more." The shop is owned & operated by Rosemarie Muller, 311 Parnell Rd., Auckland, HZ.
* We have a sheet of information re importing dogs and cats into NZ from the US. If you send $1.00 you may have a copy. Or call the NZ Consulate General's office nearest you.
* From a reader: Two good camping spots north of Auckland: Waiwera Thermal Camp (good first stop to unwind from overseas flight), and Waipu Cove Camp (quiet and right on the ocean with wonderful views). For tour to Ninety Mile Beach and Cape Reinga it's a more leisurely bus trip from Awanui or Kaitaia than to do the long trip from Paihia.
* In Auckland there is a charming B&B, with old-fashioned decor and great breakfasts. About $US3S double. Write to Bed and Breakfast, 811Dominion Rd., Mt. Eden, Auckland NZ.
* Please note that the Traveler's Checklist, Cornwall Bridge Rd., Sharon CT 06069 (Ph. 203—364—0144), has an unusual catalog of travel items, including some that are hard to find. Also have a small brochure telling all about foreign electricity. They even offer a crisis kit containing 20 emergency items free with a $35 purchase. Send 50 cents in coin for catalog.
* International Camper Exchange urgently needs more USA signups to exchange campers with camper owners in NZ and England. Their philosophy is based not on money, but on people meeting people for better understanding. If you would like to get in on this, the address is: International Camper Exchange, Inc., P.O. Box 947, North Bend, WA 98045.
* You can get detailed, up-to-date facts on the effects of airport X-ray machines on photographic film. Send a stamped, self-addressed business—size envelope to Nat. Assn. of Photographic Manufacturers, Inc., 550 Mamaroneck Ave., Harrison NY 10528.
* A reader recommmends Mabel's Restaurant in Napier, which is also warmly mentioned in a couple of the best guidebooks.
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* Quality Inns has a new guidebook to their moderately priced, well appointed rooms. Ask your travel agent for it, and about their hotel pass.
* Ansett New Zealand will soon have 7 brand new, ultra quiet aircraft for domestic flights. The airline has two classes of service, and a lot of discount fares. Ask your travel agent.
* It's becoming easier to find fine eateries in rather remote parts of NZ. One is Olivers in Clyde, in South Island's Central Otago region. Close by are specialty shops such as a patisserie selling fresh breads, quiches and hand-made confections.
* Be advised that the departure taxat Auckland and Christchurch International Airports is now $NZ15. Be sure to keep some cash in reserve.
* Lady Nola Holmes, wife of leading NZ economist Sir Frank Holmes, specializes in personalized tours of the capital city of Wellington. She insures that visitors experience Wellington's art, crafts, shopping, restaurants and other places of interest. Visitors are a.lso invited to the Holmes residence, where they are invited to enjoy the fuschia gardens, and to walk into the neighboring forest. Ask your travel agent or call Tour Plan International (804)353-6116.
NEW ZEALAND CULTURAL TRAMPING
In our first issue, Sept. 1988, I told you about American Alan Riegelman's New Zealand Travelers, Inc. He personally leads groups of about 8 trampers to places on South Island where you can steep yourself in solitude and discover places in the NZ backcountry that you didn't know still existed on our earth.
Alan's latest brochure has just
come out and shows some new features
to his tours. The plan
now is to have
on each tour a combination of 8 rugged "Backpackers" and 8 "Dayhikers." On certain days of the 3-week tour, the two groups separate, with the Backpackers going off into "the bush," or the rainforest, or to a mountain top, while the Dayhikers enjoy day hikes, launch cruises and mini tours. On other days the two groups rendezvous and tour together. Ideal for couples when one enjoys backpacking and the other does not. If all of this appeals to you then send for the brochure.
Riegelman also does tour arranging for you or your group for a fixed fee. His South Island expertise, with a discerning eye for the tasteful and special, will insure you an unforgettable tour. New Zealand Travelers, Inc., P.O. Box 605, Shelburne VT 05482 (tel.802—985—8865).
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FISHING OUT OF THE
MAINSTREAM
One of our readers sent a brochure about Southwest Guiding Services in Manapouri, way at the bottom of South Island. Alastair and Polly Macdonald, professional guides, offer superlative fishing and fine food. At their table you will find local offerings such as venison, wild pork, crayfish, oysters, scallops, blue cod, and of course, brown and rainbow trout.
The Macdonalds can accommodate up to
4
visitors in 2 twin bedrooms. Vehicles (4-wheel drive, jet boat, helicopter) are there for transport to the lakes and rivers. Some 20 rivers are within 2 hours drive from home base, 15 more are boat accessible, and helicopter transport can take you to virtually unlimited fishing waters on the west coast. Lake Manapouri itself is known as the most beautiful lake in NZ, and on still mornings and evenings is crystal clear, offering the excitement of casting to large cruising brown and rainbow trout. Southwest Guiding Service, "Matawai," Murrell Ave., Manapouri NZ (tel. 010 64 2296 893).
DRIVING ON THE LEFT
Were you aware that 51 countries, including New Zealand, keep traffic to the left? Switching to the left can be demanding at first. It cannot be taken lightly, and it helps a lot to have an alert navigator beside you keeping constant watch and now and then saying sternly, "Keep left!"
Instinctive driving is out in the beginning. Maneuvers like leaving a
driveway or making a U-turn can be confusing, since a whole set of oppos
ing techniques are required. Don't try to drive immediately after arriving in the country, while still suffering from jet lag.
HOWEVER, we repeat what we've written in the K.F. before: driving in New Zealand is easy compared with most developed countries. Relatively few cars are on the road, and Kiwi drivers are on the whole quite alert and skillful.
Better, though, if you're nervous about driving on the left, to arrive in Christchurch and pick up your car as you leave the city. You'll find long stretches of highway throughout
South
Island where you won't even see
another car for many kilometres. By
the time you cross Cook Strait to the North Island, where there's more traffic, you'll be competent and serene.
Thank you f or mentioning KIWIphile FILE when making inquiries. We need recognition!
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AMERICAN IMPORTS
ENRICH
KIWI BASKETBALL
(compiled from a NZ sports page)
Since the beginning of the 1980's many American basketball players, imported to New Zealand and assimilated into Kiwi leagues, have applied for permanent residency. Some of these men, mostly black, are close to the end of their playing careers and are busy solidifying employment opportunities for life after basketball. They choose to remain in NZ because they find opportunities there that would never come to them back home.
One player, Ben Anthony, says, "Being black is different here than it is at home. People look at you and treat you differently in the States. Here we are just individuals judged on who we are and what we do, not on what color we are."
According to Clyde Huntley, "Here I can get employment without problem, and I don't have to look over my shoulder continually worried about things like crime.
"Where I come from not many blacks are making it. I never would have been able to establish the same sort of position and credibility in the community."
Caucasion star Jacques TUZ concedes the black players arguably have better conditions with more chances in NZ than elsewhere, but quickly adds that he may also be infinitely better off, given the high profile and hero- worship factors of the sport.
All these men have found useful employment outside basketball. One is a P.E. teacher at a boys' home, another is on a weekly newspaper's advertising sales staff, one sells real estate. Two own shares in a Christchurch sports shop. Most of the men have married Kiwi women or are settled in what they consider to be permanent relationships.
All this is good for the NZ basketball scene. Several of the men are coaching Kiwi teenagers, and others look forward to the day when they take charge of a league team. The Americans consider themselves lucky, as well, to have what they feel is an improved quality of life, a slower pace, the laid-back lifestyle. Most agree with Tuz, "This is a great country."
SOUTHERN HERITAGE
TOURS,
LTD.
See your travel agent for information on some unique cruises and journeys to places where nature still comes first--places where the birds outnumber the people and plants can grow without fear of being trampled by the crowds. Such places are rare today. New Zealand is unique in that it
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still has a number of those "special places."
One of the Southern Heritage Tours goes to what they call "Unseen Fiordland," the most isolated and inaccessible part of the NZ mainland. Another is to the Subantartic Islands; another to the Bird Islands of the Gulf (Hauraki Gulf, gateway to Auckland); a fourth is to the Chatham Islands, home to approximately 400 people. Then there is Stewart Island. This 995 sq.km. island, called "Rakiura" by the Maoris--"land of the glowing skies"--is bounded on all sides by the Southern Ocean.
All these adventures are led by experienced and qualified naturalists. A reference library is available for your use and there are optional evening lectures.
HOSTELING
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THE
FAR
NORTH
The entire country of New Zealand is naturally friendly, and you may find the far north to be remarkably so. Within walking distance of the hostel in Whangarei you'll find glow— worms, a goidmine, a Maori fort, a kauri forest, a mangrove swamp, and the harbor and coastline.
Best of all, the local tramping, natural history, and orienteering clubs are happy to have visitors join them for outings. What better way to meet the Kiwis! Hostel wardens are a mine of information, with brochures available for many of the walks and parks provided by Department of Conservation offices.
It's advisable to be prepared for possible showers, and you should take drinks and snacks as many destinations are isolated or little developed and shops are not common.
Further afield you will find limestone caves, sweeping, empty beaches, and rural/coastal panoramas. From the historic town of Russell you can take a ferry to the numerous islands scattered through the Bay of Islands Maritime and Historic Park.
If you are driving you can see the biggest tree in NZ, estimated to be 1200 years old. The tree is located in Waipoua Forest Sanctuary about 25 km. south of Opononi and 45 km. north of Dargaville.
For more information write to Youth Hostel Assn., Nat. Office, Arts Centre, P.O. Box 436, Christchurch NZ. (FAX (03) 654—476). Ask also about YHA 10/30 Passes on Newman's Coach Lines-- ten days of unlimited travel in any 30 day period throughout NZ for $NZ245.
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WHY TAKE A CRUISE WHEN YOU CAN TAKE AN EXPEDITION?
The above is the question posed by Society Expedition Cruises. Included in their offerings is an exciting visit to Australia's and New Zealand's Subantarctic Islands, including Macquarie and the Auckland Islands south of NZ. Expedition ships will board from Hobart, Tasmania, or from Christchurch or Port Bluff, NZ.
The 21-day trip includes visits to the Antipodes Islands, Bounty Islands, and the Chathams. Some of the world's richest wildlife environments will be explored, and opportunities. will be offered to view such species as the King penguin, Hooker's sea lions, bellbirds (their song des- cribed by Capt. Cook's botanist as "the most tunable silver sound imaginable"), 17 varieties of albatross, mollymawks, petrels, cormorants, and the Antipodes Island parakeet..
These trips are intended for persons in reasonably good health. Foremost authorities on the Antarctic are included on board ship to offer stimulating daily lectures on the specifics of each destination.
Consult with a travel agent for details.
COUNTRY MARATHON
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ROTORUA
The autumn running event around Lake Rotorua is quite a celebration. The race may never rank with the famous marathons of London, New York or Boston, but 6,046 runners competed in this year's race.
Where else would marathon "fun- runners"-- for that is what many of them are--be cheered on by an angler standing on the roadside with a fishing rod in one hand and a freshly caught trout in the other?. Or pass an open paddock in which a farmer has diverted the water pipe from a cattle trough so that it sprays within reach of those who may need it?
For up to 5 hours, citizens line the road to encourage those of all ages, shapes and sizes who take part. Three times as many runners competed this year as last, and the people of Rotorua are justifiably proud.of their marathon.
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NEW
ZEALAND
UNTOUR
You may have read or heard about Idyll Untours of Europe; now they've included New Zealand. For as little as $USl1 per day per person (based on 4 people to a unit), you may spend 2 or more weeks on either or both the North and South Islands.
You live in an apartment, cottage, or house for a week (linens and towels included), with a rental car for tripping from there. Then you fly to the other island for ançther week of touring. Three travel days are included. The 2-week cost for one in a group of 4 is $2380, including air fares, car rental and accommodations. Idyll, Ltd., P.O. Box 405, Media, PA 19063 (tel. 215—565-5242).
THE
NEW
ZEALAND LISTENER
We believe that if you like to view New Zealand's television of offerings, which are in the main British, American and Australian imports, you will find many surprisingly good NZ programs sprinkled in. Many of these features give a fresh and different view of the country.
When we're in NZ we buy
Listener
Magazine each week so if there are opportunities for TV viewing, we'll know what is on. Along with the television and radio listings, we are informed of the Kiwi political scene, the conservation picture, art, music, books, films, gardening, etc. We find sharp Kiwi thinking and wry Kiwi wit. It's a big magazine which makes fascinating reading.
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KlWlphile FILE PARTY
I think its safe to say that all who attended our June 3rd K.F. party had a good time. We started off with the highlight of the evening, by introducing Elder William Mahoni, with his troupe of pseudo-Maoris who did the haka (Maori war dance) and a Samoan number.
Elder Mahoni is a Maori, from Auckland. He has been in California for a couple of years as a Mormon missionary. He is a warm and charming young man. In New Zealand he spent many years teaching Maori youngsters their native ceremonies. Here he spent about two weeks training four of his fellow missionaries. The young men performed admirably, considering that the four were from such non-Polynesian areas as Ireland, Montana and Utah, with Hawaii thrown in.
Elder Mahoni began with a brief history of Polynesian culture, including the Maori. He told us about the designs on the faces of the men, which in the past were carved painfully into their skins. The entire symmetrical design was gradually earned in recognition of battle deeds, and was a sign of status.
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Outside, Mahoni, with his face painted in his own, personal design, made a complete personality change. He became a fearsome warrior, and as leader of his "tribe", challenged us to battle or, if we so chose, to a peaceful meeting. We, the audience, participated as though we were exploring Europeans, just landed on the island.
The warrior used all the traditional modes of intimidation, including the enlargement of
tfhe
eyes, the short, heavy puffing of breath, the rigid posture, and of course the fiercely protruding tongue. He carried a long club or spear with which he taunted the visitors in warlike gestures. In ceremonial fashion, the warrior placed a leafed twig on the ground before us, challenging one of our members to pick it up and replace it in a way to indicate if we came in peace or not. When he saw that we were peaceful, he relented and invited us to follow him and to watch the further entertainment.
After the thrilling Maori performance, we came inside for presentation of door prizes, some music, and lots of food. Later there were NZ slides and videos, and lots of talk.
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