Volume VIII, No. 1
SEPTEMBER 1995
THE MAGIC IS STILL THERE
One month in New Zealand! I had spent months planning and anticipating with joy the trip I had had to postpone for five long, painful years.
When I got there it was the same--greener, perhaps, because it was a very rainy season - - but the hills were the same, the snow-mantled mountains the same, the slower pace of life the same. All my friends there were as endearing as they had always been. I felt welcome everywhere I went.
Two rather unpleasant elements had managed to creep in during my absence. I saw grafiti now and then, though not on a California scale, and some stores and restaurants were spoiled for me by loud, unpleasant background music.
This was not realty an adventure trip for me, but a return to "my" New Zealand, and visiting with the dear friends John and I had made in earlier visits. I'll give details next time.

IMMIGRATION

If you want immigration information, please contact the New Zealand Consulate General, 10960 Wilshire Blvd., Ste 1530, Los Angeles CA 90024.
Also contact Malcolm Pacific Ltd., Fifth Floor, 70 Symonds St., Auckland NZ. Tel. (64-9)309-4187. Fax (64-9)366-4730.
Or: North Shore immigration Service, lid., (Rosemary Gregory), Auckland. Ph. 488-1607.
Or: AIC Immigration Consultancy, Ltd., Auckland. Ph. 302-2091.

FORGOTTEN GISBORNE IS TRAVELLERS' DELIGHT
(from Evening Post, Wellington)

Gisborne is sometimes left out of tourist guidebooks. In fact, so is the whole East Coast region. The reason? More ignorance than intention, I suspect.
So this sun-kissed land of rugged mountains and surfing beaches, and Maori and European history that go back to the beginning is left to be discovered by those who seek out the serene, the authentic, the "real" New Zealand.
The East Coast is an easy-going region with pockets of old world charm that beg to be discovered although not from a tourist coach.
If time permits, see it from on top of a bike. Or a horse - - the East Coast has plenty of them! If you can't find an MTB or a horse, then it's still rewarding by car.
Gisborne should be your destination and base. There's a range of value-for-money accommodation and some good restaurants. Gisborne is where the Waimata and Taruheru rivers join to form the Turanganui River, reputedly the shortest in the world, at one kilometre.
Visit the musem and you'll discover Gisborne was known to Maori as Turanga, an abbreviation for Turanga-nui-a-Kiwa (the long resting place of Kiwa). Kiwa is said to have been the chief of one of the migration canoes, some say the great Takimutu canoe, which made its landfall on Mahia peninsula in the 1300s.
To mark Cook's visit in 1769--the first European to set foot on New Zealand soil - - a granite sheathed concrete obelisk was erected in 1906.
Visitors to the obelisk today can look across the bay to Young Nick's Head, a chalk-coloured cliff reputedly the first piece of New Zealand sighted by Cook's cabin boy.
Young Nick's Head can be better viewed from the top of Kaiti Hill, a 130m promontory which had been a pa site for Maori for at least 24 generations. The summit lent itself to defence against enemies as it gave a clear view of the surrounding land and sea. The precipitous slopes also gave protection against potential invaders.
At the base of the hill is Poho 0 Rawiri - - a marae said to be the largest in the country, capable of accommodating 500.
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The marae is a much-loved and much-used centre with a dining hall and kokiri centre for meetings and training courses and a kohanga reo. The marae is open to the public by appointment.
Also of great historical significance is Matawhero Church which stands as a moot reminder of the Poverty Bay massacre in 1868.
The church, a kilometre off the main south road, was the only building in the immediate vicinity to survwe the massacre by Ta Kooti.
The chief and his followers had recently escaped from exile in the Chatham Islands and murdered 70 Maori and Europeans here in revenge for their deportation. Among those killed were Major Reginald Biggs, his wife and their baby.
Gisbome is an easy city to explore, and the museum and arts centre is worth a visit It includes historic Wylie Cottage and the Star of Canada maritime museum. Overlooking the river, the museum boasts a variety of art and craft exhibitions which are changed regularly, mini displays of colonial history, Maori culture, geology, natural history. Studios for artists and craftspeople can be found in Lysnar House.
In case you think your eyes deceive you, yes, the Star of Canada is the complete bridge of a wrecked vessel. It even has the original wheel, litebuoys, and navigation lights. The SS Star of Canada, of 7,498 tonnes, was wrecked on rocks below Kaiti Hill in 1912.

DOLPHIN ENCOUNTERS - by Winton Cassels

There are a dozen or more masked and goggled heads bobbing about in the ocean. The heads are yipping and yahooing. Has alcohol been consumed by this gaudy wetsuited group?
But surely it's too early in the day for that.
And why, on this beautiful late-summer morning off the Kaikoura peninsula are these people flippering and noisily flapping on the smooth sea in such an odd way?
They're trying to make themselves attractive to dolphins--that's why.
They have been told the dolphins are unlikely to come near them unless they can swim a bit like a dolphin, maybe even dive like a dolphin--make noises that humans think dolphins want to hear.
For we're surrounded by dolphins, at least 200 dusky dolphins. And the dolphins are in a relaxed and playful mood, crossing and recrossing under our boat, leaping out of the water. Lean over the bow and you can hear their high pitched squeaks and whistles. Off in the distance a dolphin baby is leaping clear of the water again and again, like an action replay of itself.
We are surrounded by ebullience and goodwill, by creatures with a seemingly inexhaustible supply of joie de vivre.
I'm with Dolphin Encounter, the pioneer of what has become the latest in Kaikoura's long line up of marine attractions. Dolphin Encounter offers people a chance to swim with the dolphins.
Sarah Fissenden, our guide, told the swimmers on the bus trip to our boat "If you swim around a lot and make a lot of noise while you're in the water the dolphins will really enjoy that and you'll have them around you for longer.
"Dolphins are really attracted to mimicry. You want to do a 'dolphin kick', with ankles and knees together. The more rhythmical and the more fluid you are in the water, the more the dolphins respond. Another good one is if you can dive. They seem to really appreciate your efforts to get more into their environment That is probabiy one of the best things you can do..
"We had a guy out here last week clucking like a chicken and he had lots of dolphins with him. Another lady tried Credence Clearwater Revival songs and they went really well for her."
The group I'm with are in their twenties, mostly European and North American--a group of travelling adventurers. They love what they're hearing: what better way to spend a morning--in a millpond sea with a breathtaking view as your backdrop, swimming like a mermaid and singing to the dolphins?
Dolphin Encounter has a boat capable of carrying 20 and it provides wetsuits, flippers and snorkels. It meets with the dolphins usually after a 15-minute boat ride from Kaikoura. Then it's all overboard as quickly as possible under strict instructions to make your own fun. For only if you make yourself alluring enough to the dolphins might they want to play with you.
So much so that you might form a relationship the dolphins don't want to break. An owner of Dolphin Encounter, Dennis Buurmann says: "I was out there one day with a couple of Americans who came up specially from Queenstown. They bungy-jumped in the morning and flew to Christchurch and got up here. And they were with a big group of dolphins and played with them for a long time. In the end we had to call them out of the water.
"They swam back to the boat--and it has happened before—the dolphins followed them right to the boat, and as the boat set off they followed the boat"
Dennis says that sociability is not all--dolphins seem to be strongly motivated to party. "As with the seals, they can be waiting for you in the water, egging you along and waiting for you to follow them. But humans are a bit slow, so they circle and then come back again."
One sign that a swimmer is building a good rapport is when he or she is surrounded by a circle of cavorting dolphins.
Dennis says the dolphin meetings can have a profound effect on people: "Some get very emotional and burst into tears. They seem to experience something which is beyond what they can cope with. They seem to get so much joy or whatever it is from that encounter that they are overcome.
"Dolphins are magnificent creatures and, whether it is warranted or not, there does seem to be a magic about the encounters."
Meetings with dolphins are, of course, not the
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only experiences Kaikoura has to offer. The area's unique geography is spectacular enough, with the breathtaking backdrop of the Kaikoura range. But in the ocean the steep gradient of the mountains continues and the bottom swiftly falls away to depths of 900 yards.
The steep gradient of the ocean floor combines with upswelling ocean currents from the south to bring a profusion of marine life to the surface in this area--one of the most favored so close to shore in the world. An entire food chain of nuthents, plankton, krill and small fish, wells from the Hikorangi Trench to draw many species of fish and cetecea—the species which includes whales and dolphins--to feed within a few hundred yards of the shore.
Randy Lenon from Alaska and Karen Greaney of New York are two of the swimmers who enjoyed their dolphin encounter. Randy was shortly to leave New Zealand, and he had come to Kaikoura to swim with the dolphins and see the whales.
He had been to this country previously, and said he had dived in its waters and walked many of its tracks. Surprisingly for an Alaskan, he found New Zealand waters a little cold!
"The dolphins were fabulous," said Randy. "They are really curious when you imitate their moves."
Karen had also had "a great experience." Being slender, she was the perfect build to emulate the mermaid movements dolphins seem to love.
Both were aware just how much they were guests in the dolphin environment. You couldn't coerce the animals--they had to like you and come to you.
They had learned that graceful, fluid swimming was best. Those who went in for the "macho" behaviour quickly found themselves alone in the water.
Ian Bradshaw, skipper of the boat and a partner in Dolphin Encounter, said he and Rick Buurman had been the pioneers of swimming with dolphins. The two men used to be crayfishermen and Ian had worked as a butcher before they started thinking about offering tourists the chance to swim with dolphins.
That was about the time the first whalewatching enterprise, Kaikoura Tours, began operations in 1988.
Now tourists can visit the whales in a variety of small craft, swim with seals and dolphins--or fly over them by helicopter or light aircraft
It is a measure of how rapidly Kaikoura has grown as a tourist destination. Whalewatching, which takes place five to 10 miles offshore, is well-advertised and a strong tourist drawcard, but "backpacker telegraph" is often the means by which younger tourists discover the dolphins.
Ian said this summer has been highly successful. "The dolphins have formed a stable group which is easy to find, and tourists are able to make contact with them 95% of the time."
At times there are pods of up to 500 dolphins in the area, a number which can increase during the October to March season.
The Department of Conservation has held a workshop on the Kaikoura dolphins, flying out Bernd Wrusig, a professor at the University of Texas and a world authority on dolphins.
While there is no evidence to date that the dolphins are being disrupted by the dolphin swim programme, the Department of Conservation are taking a precautionary approach to the issuing of further licenses to guarantee that the dolphins are not disturbed, placing a moratorium on the issue of more licenses until a major study is completed.
The only way the dolphins have been identified up to now is by markings on their dorsal fins, and the Buurmans have a book of photographs of these markings. Dennis Buurman has seen some extraordinary behaviour which he hopes will attract further study.
Orcas—killer whales--sometimes cruise the dolphins' grounds. If the orcas are in a mood to feed, the dolphins seem to know it, Dennis says. They become "jittery", bunch together in a tight formation, and don't want to play with tourists.
And recently, Dennis Buurman saw an extraordinary sight: "When the orcas come through the dolphins head right off in shore and stay there all day. The encounters with the dolphins aren't all that good. They are jittery because the orcas can feed off them.
"But last time we saw orcas, the dolphins did a most unusual thing. They headed out in a long line right to the killer whales. We couldn't believe what we were seeing. Usually the dolphins will go the other way. They went out to the orcas and they played around them, they jumped around them, they did all sorts of things. The orcas didn't mind and they certainly weren't hungry.
"Then after all this frenzied movement the mothers and calves split from the group. Some of them were right in among the rocks and stayed there for a long time. We have never witnessed that before.
"Some of the guys figure the performance was maybe trying to lure them away or upset the orcas' sonar."
The award winning author of three books on whales and whaling in New Zealand, Don Grady, who has spent time in Kaikoura researching for a book on whale and dolphin watching in the town, says Kaikoura has come a long way since the 1920s, when it thrived on killing whales.
Now, as the town is transformed from a sleepy scenic backwater whose principal business was crayfishing, the locals know what a treasure they have literally at their front door. Watching is proving much more popular than hunting. Don says conservation aspects of whale and dolphin watching "are being very well handled. I think it's being better and better handled all the time
"The people here are very conscious of it. And they have a greater reason than anyone else to practise conservation--they know that without it they wouldn't have an industry."
Further information can be obtained from: The New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd.,
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Suite #300, Santa Monica CA 90401. Phone (310) 395-7480 or (800) 388-5494.

FREIGHTER TRAVEL TO THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Regular transpacific passenger service to Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific island of Fiji
--thought by many travelers to be a thing of the past—is readily available aboard the modern container-ships of Blue Star Lines.
TravLtips serves as general passenger agent for Blue Star Lines, and offers departures approximately every three weeks.
Freighter travelers, accustomed in past years to waits of up to 12 months for passage aboard cargo ships, should be aware that good cabins are available aboard Blue Star vessels on short notice. Rates are about $100 per person per day.
Travel aboard cargo ships appeals to those who enjoy relaxing, unregimented days at sea. Two vessels, the 18,236-ton California Star and 19,613-ton Columbia Star each accommodate up to 12 passengers in double- and-single occupancy outside cabins. All are air- conditioned, with windows, private facilities and lower beds.
Round trip is 42-45 days, with per-person fares starting at $4,400 double occupancy and $5,300 single.
Passage also may be booked one way for as little as $1,600 per person. The age limit for passage is 79.
Contact: TravLtips, 163-07 Depot Rd. P.O. Box 580188, Flushing NY, 11358. Brochures and current fares are available by calling 800/872-8584.

NEW ZEALAND LEAST CORRUPT - NZ Herald

New Zealand recently received a pat on the back when an international study found this country to be the least corrupt in the world.
The poll of 41 countries by anti-corruption organization Transparency International surveyed international businessmen and financial journalists to give each country a grading between zero and 10.
A score of zero indicates a country in which business is dominated by kickbacks and extortion and a score of 10 indicates a country entirely free of corruption.
New Zealand scored 9.55 ahead of Denmark, Singapore and Finland. Australians are nowhere near as clean as Kiwis it seems. The Aussies came in at seventh place with a rating of 8.8.
On the other side of the coin the country rated the most corrupt in the world is Indonesia, where corrupt business and political practices are legendary and widely accepted as a normal part of doing business, followed by China and Pakistan.
The head of Transparency International, Mr. Henry Bosch, a former head of the Australian National Companies and Securities Commission, said the poll confirmed there were deep-seated problems of corruption around the world.
It aimed to show corruption in particular countries because this would have an effect on companies wanting to do business with them.
Commenting on Australia's ranking, Mr. Bosch
said it reflected bribes paid to the police rather than businesses.
TEN LEAST
CORRUPT
New Zealand
Denmark
Singapore
Finland
Canada
Sweden
Australia
Switzerland
The Netherlands
Norway

TEN MOST
CORRUPT
Indonesia
China
Pakistan
Venezuela
Brazil
Philippines
India
Thailand
The Italy
Mexico
(Ed. Apparently the US stands somewhere in between?)

BACK IN NEW ZEALAND WITH THE BAIERS

A funny thing happened on the way through Auckland Airport! As the customs agent threaded her way through lines of incoming passengers, her drug snif- fing dog grabbed one soft-sided suitcase and held on. The agent pried the golden labrador's jaws open, substituted a sort of chew bar and Led the young man and his suitcase away.
One wonders, "Is this an 'exercise' they go through periodically as an object lesson to those who might try to smuggle an illegal substance into New Zealand?' Or was the man, indeed, carrying the drugs in his luggage? That mystery shall remain unsolved.
Friends Beth and Roger Deacon (fishing buddies from our '92 visit) met our early morning flight We went first to their home in Manukau Heights for breakfast, then spent the entire day exploring Auckland.
We visited Kelly Tarleton's Underwater World, Mt. Eden, the Museum in Auckland Domain (a large city park), and One Tree Hill.
One Tree Hill still has its namesake, although earlier a political protestor had taken a chain-saw to the tree and it sustained major damage. Now wearing a "bandage" and supported by guy-wires, it is hoped the tree will survive. (See, not all the "nuts" in this world live in California!)
We ate fish 'n chips wrapped in newspaper at an open air BYOB cafe near Mission Bay, then headed for the home of our "Evergreen" hosts.
Our first and second nights were spent in the home of Jim and Janet Millar in the Epsom area. We were very comfortable there in a downstairs room overlooking their garden.
(Janet Millar wins the award for "Best Homemade Muesli". Someday, with her permission, I will share the recipe. Muesli is nearly always one of the choices on the Kiwi breakfast table so we tried a lot of different types of this crunchy treat, but Janet's, which she calls "John's Muesil" was best).
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During our second day we toured the Maritime Museum at Hobson Wharf, then took a local ferry across the bay to the charming village of Devonport. There we nearly got blown away from the top of Mount Victoria, so were glad we were wearing sweatshirts and hats. We had timed our trip for New Zealand's summer (February, March), but it was hot only two days during our 5-week stay.
The afternoon of the second day we picked up a red Toyota from Hauraki Meadows Car Rental Agency. That's the agency that had provided excellent service during our previous visit. The cost was $40 per day including GST and insurance, unlimited mileage for an automatic 4-door sedan. The car was clean, low mileage, and hassle free.
Mike McClelland ("Best of NZ Fly Fishing") was once again our travel agent, so it was he who arranged the car rental in addition to plane tickets. We flew Air New Zealand for the fare of $1275 pp round trip. That included the hop from Auckland to Christchurch and back. (Mike McClelland, The Best of New Zealand, 310-826-9105 or 800-528-6129.)
Mike also obtained NZ fishing licenses at a cost of $36 each that allowed fresh water fishing on both North and South Islands. (We have a trout photo to forward to Mike as a thank you for taking good care of us).
On Day 3 Roger and Beth led the way as we motored north via Dargaville. Stopped to see the kauri forest and the museum at Matakohe. That was one of the highlights of this visit. Such interesting history, not only of forestry, but of the kauri gum that was also a major export from the area.
The sap from the ancient trees collected and solidified. There was a whole generation of men who probed the swamps and excavated the deposits which were then sold for the manufacture of varnish, paint, and even jewelry.
We ate lunch at "The Gumdiggers' Tearoom". (This might be a good place to discuss meals in New Zealand. There is breakfast; followed by morning tea; lunch; afternoon tea; and then, there is TEA. If someone invites you for "TEA" it means "dinner".)
Lunches are available from tearooms or small stores called "dairies" and are made up as "takeaway" items such as meat pies, sausage rolls, sandwiches, desserts and beverages. Don't expect to find a chef's salad on the menu. You might find a small salad with a quiche or a slice of pizza, but Kiwis don't eat much lettuce. We did not see blue cheese dressing anywhere.
We had exchanged a week of timeshare for a resort called "Club Paihia". There, after driving up a very steep hill, we enjoyed a lovely view from our 2 bedroom, 2 bath condo. We had a view of the bay and the surrounding bush. Thousands of cicadas sang all day long. We also heard birds: tuis and gulls, sparrows and starlings. At
night an owl named a "morepork" called its name.
Windows are not screened, so we did experience a few mosquito bites; but we saw no sandflies that are abundant in some places.
"Bay of Islands" is appropriately named. The wharf area was a flurry of activity. Bob and Roger tried an evening fishing charter, but success was limited. Most of the snapper they caught were undersized so had to go back into the sea.
It was Waitangi Day, a national holiday to celebrate the treaty signed between Captain Cook and the Maori tribes. We watched as the wakas (Maori war canoes) rowed out toward the ships in the harbor, but we did not stay for all of the activities.
Later in the day there were protests and demonstrations by political activists. We missed the spitting on and trampling of the flag Some of the dignitaries were subjected to the very undignified sight of bare buttocks (tattooed bums!). The group became so unruly that the balance of the day's planned activities were cancelled).
We were uninvolved in the disturbance, and spent a lovely day in Russell, a charming old whaling port with well preserved homes and historical sites.
After our friends returned to Auckland, Bob and I did the usual "touristy" things such as riding the big catamaran through the "Hole in the Rock." After we passed through the hole, the skipper headed for open sea where we saw dozens of common dolphins. What a delightful bonus for that cruise.
The following day the tour bus picked us up at the bottom of the hill near the resort entrance and we rode north to Cape Reinga via Ninety Mile Beach—another worthwhile day of sightseeing.
We were glad to have our rental car so we could explore on our own. We especially enjoyed the nearby city of Keri Keri with historic buildings, hedges and citrus orchards.
At a craft cooperative I purchased a lovely hand
knit mohair cardigan. The artist who created the garment, a lady named Jean Buick, was on the premises that day. The sweater, at NZ$145, was a real bargain because during all of our travels, I never saw another of comparable quality for less than $225.
As we said goodby to the Northland, we left with fond memories but eagerly anticipated more adventures as we headed for the Waikato, the farm and dairy heartland of the North Island. (more next issue)

FINDING A TOILET IN NEW ZEALAND (from a Department of Conservation brochure)

Protect your health and the environment when looking for a toilet while travelling in New Zealand--use a little forethought and planning
* Use toilets in the towns and cities
* Dump caravan and campervan wastes at dumping stations
* Be careful to bury human waste
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Planning ahead and being careful with human waste will help prevent the spread of disease, preserve rest areas, roadsides, parks and reserves, and promote the enjoyment of our natural environment. The disposal of human waste into natural waters is exremely offensive to Maori cultural and spiritual concerns.
The parasite Giardia has recently been found in some New Zealand lakes, rivers and streams. It lives in the intestine of mammals and can cause severe diarrhoea. You can catch it by drinking water that has Giardia in it.
Humans may spread Giardia when toilet waste is not buried or is buried close to a stream, lake or well. It can also spread when people with the disease don't wash their hands properly, or when they do, they wash them in a stream, river or lake.
More information on Giardia is available from Dept. of Conservation offices and health agencies.
Toilets in Towns— In New Zealand you can expect to find toilets at:
*Information and Visitor centres
*National Park headquarters
*Service/gas stations
*Hotels
*Public libraries
*Camping grounds
*Rail and bus stations
*Urban parks and children's playgrounds
*Shopping malls
Use the toilets in the towns and cities as they may not be available in the countryside.
Out of Town- When you are away from places where there are public toilets your wastes should be buried—a trowel should be carried for this purpose; toilet paper can be handy, too. Check that children know what to do and where to go.
Select a secluded place well away from water, walking tracks, huts and possible campsites. Dig or scrape a shallow hole about 10-15 cm deep, bury the waste, then refill with loose soil.
Caravan & Campervan Users-- Use public toilets rather than filling up your holding tanks. Use a dump station rather than burying in the bush or forest.
Find out where sewage dump stations are located in the areas you will be travelling in. A map of NZ dump stations is available from Information centres and caravan or campervan hirers. Empty portage toilets into dump stations.
Dumping is simple and clean. Simply take the holding tank flexible hose and attach it to the dump sta- tion inlet. A hose will be available to wash away any spillage.

WILDERNESS GEMS

On my recent visit to New Zealand my friends took me to a fascinating "storehouse of earth's gem, mineral and rock treasures". We drove to the small town of Ngatea in the heart of the Hauraki Plains. Ngatea is about
an hour's pleasant drive from Auckland. On our trip from near Thames my eyes were treated to views of cloud- shrouded mountains, green pastures on all sides, one of many lovely rainbows I saw in New Zealand this time, and much more.
Wilderness Gems is a huge place filled with what is claimed to be the largest display of "for sale" gem, mineral and rock treasures in the South Pacific. You can find gifts there for almost everyone on your list.
You'll find some of the finest gemstone jewelry, carvings, crystals, and more. There are speciman blocks of native petrified woods, jasper and famous New Zealand nephrite jade (greenstone). You'll find elegant marble- ware, Kauri gum, rare and unusual fossils and shells, as well as everything a true rock-hound would be looking for: lapidary machines and accessories, books and magazines, and over 100 tons of rough, cut and uncut, polished and unpolished gem material--from New Zealand and around the world.
I wasn't really excited about going to the Wilderness Gems store, but found it completely fascinating, and I could have bought much, much more than I did. 1 recommend that you take a look. You could stop off on your way from Auckland to Waihi, Tauranga or Rotorua. They're open from 9 to 5 every day except Christmas.
Address: Wilderness Gems Ltd. 13 River Road, Ngatea, NZ. Ph: 0-7-867 7417, or write P.O. Box 87, Ngatea, Hauraki Plains, NZ.

LETTER BOX

I'm photocopying the article "In Awe of Auckland--No Beef with Wellington", June 1995, to send to NZ friends who were AFS exchange students to US. One lives in Auckland. the other in Wellington! We visited them in 1993 and plan to return in 1997. (My husband is happy the Haast Pass is paved). Thanks for great articles.
Paula Prindle, Ohio

Please excuse the delay in the letter—I did want to tell you a bit about our trip in February and had intended to write when I made out the check—April 22nd!! I guess being in NZ for 4 weeks made me too relaxed.
First of all, we can't say enough about Lesley Brooking-Elms and Pacific Experience in New York City. Having been a travel agent myself for 34 years, I can appreciate what goes into the planning and details of a trip. We knew basically what we wanted and faxed a rough outline to Lesley. She, in turn, made a few suggestions, mainly to include the west coast of the South Island (how glad we were, as we loved it).
We wanted to stay in bed and breakfasts, and she knew all the best ones in each place. We also wanted a few private tours with guides--in particular "Kiwi Dundee"— Doug Johansen in the Coromandel; Gerry McSweeney
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in Lake Moeraki; and she suggested and arranged for Peter Heath in Nelson for a day to Abel Tasman. All were superb guides and delightful characters who brought alive all the wonderful things New Zealand has to offer.
Each B&B was just marvelous: Ounauhao in Russell, Flooks in Pauanui, Cashmere House in Christchurch, Murrells in Manapouri, Cambria House in Nelson, and our favorite, Stone Cottage in Queenstown, run by Deb and Graham Alley who are former Air New Zealand flight attendants and who were enthusiastic and so very helpful.
We also stayed at Woodlands Country Lodge in Ngongotaha near Rotorua, and found it to be super. Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge and Lake Brunner Lodge were oustanding as well. All in all, every detail was perfect and there was not a single slip up—professional all the way.
There were four of us, and we rented a Ford Falcon station wagon in both North and South Islands-- excellent car and very roomy. My husband is 6'6" and had no complaints (front seat had lots of leg room). We drove about 4,000 kms and no problems.
We are delighted that the Kiwis won the America's Cup and would love to go to Auckland to see them defend in 2000. Keep sending KIWIphile FILE as we will definitely return some day.
We loved the people and their friendliness—our first day in Auckland we were walking to a concert in the park, and a gentleman stopped his car and asked if we would like a ride. Of course we said yes, attended a fabulous concert in the park and rubbed shoulders with 250,000 of the most wonderful people we've ever met!!! Thank you.
Nancy Cameron, South Carolina

Many thanks for the KIWIphile FILE received a little while ago. Was thrilled to see my little bit in about Greyhound buses. We have had Kitty and Bob Baier over, and given them the usual Club Welcome (Silver Fern Tape Recording Club) here at our home, where some 18 members were in and out during an afternoon and evening.
Now for a wee story: I was in the middle of Rotorua the other day, passing a home appliance shop, and a man with a very American voice spoke quite loudly and laughed, remarking on the high cost of our electrical goods here when converted back to American dollars. I of course could not resist speaking to them. Came from Idaho. So I said I knew much of America, etc., Greyhound buses, and said not to laugh. So he said he would give me a laugh and he sure did. His card showed that he is a retired Greyhound bus driver! So I had to come back to my own city to meet and talk to a Greyhound bus driver!
I really enjoyed reading in your newsletter about some places right here in NZ that I did not know about, especially the walking track at Akaroa—not that I could do it. Sounded really good.
Phyll Moore, Rotorua, NZ
Good news? Four of our friends in NZ have joined
"Affordable Travel" and will host club members at a rate of $30American (double) bed and breakfast!
1. Deacons in Auckland
2. Cullens in TeAwamutu
3. Frenches in Waihi
4. Shaws in Manapouri (NZ winter months only)
5. Jenny Hilton, Tauranga, was already a member
Other AFT hosts include another family in Auckland and one in Wellington.
'Evergreen" (the other travel club) has 2 in Auckland, 1 in Levin, 1 in Richmond and 1 in Whangarei.
So with our 4 new host families, NZ is pretty well covered. We wish Kansas and Nebraska were! We're trying to set up the itinerary for an Aug.-Sept. trip to the Mid- west using the 2 club memberships for overnight stops enroute. We have timeshare exchanges in Minnesota and Wisconsin. A week in each resort, but need B&B stops along Route 70.
When you're in New Zealand if you get to Waihi be sure to visit Josie and Bob French's garden. If you get to Kerikeri stop at the artists' coop shop. A lady named Jean Buick has beautiful handknit sweaters at affordable prices. I bought a mohair sweater she calls "spearmint"
color and every time I wear it I get compliments.
If you need a small hotel in Christchurch we recommend "The Windsor" because it is within walking distance of everything. The rooms are simple but everyone gathers in the dining room for a hearty breakfast and again in the evening there is tea, cocoa and cookies (biscuits) in the lounge. We enjoyed the other guests. Met two young scientists just back from several months in Antarctica.
In Rotorua we recommend Colleen and Ike Walker. They host in-home guests, but Bob and I had a great granny flat there! 2 BR, kitchen, LR, bath and laundry for NZ$50. We fished with Ike and had a great time.
Kitty Baler, California
(Evergreen Travel Club, 404 North Galena Ave., Dixon, IL 61021 815-288-9600.
Affordable Travel Club, Inc., 6556 Snug Harbor Lane, Gig Harbor WA 98335. 206-858-2172.)

THE LITTLE BLUE PENGUIN
- from Otago Happenings
The little Blue Penguin is found throughout New Zealand, but the colony at Oamaru is by far the most accessible. The birds have been nesting here for years and recently Oamaru has enhanced this attraction by building a visitor centre, two viewing platforms and floodlights.
These facilities are located at the end of Waterfront Road, which is just south of Oamaru's historic precinct. A foreshore area was fenced in 1992 and designated a wildlife refuge for the protection of the penguin in its natural habitat. Local groups oversee a development project to ensure penguin safety, as well as visitor education and enjoyment.
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The little Blue Penguin is a timid creature with trademark indigo blue colouring on its head, back and tail. They may grow to 30cm in height, weigh up to 1kg, and can live to the age of 20. Although there have been losses to predators recently, the colony is stilL thriving, with over 100 penguins using the nesting area.
Penguin viewing at Oamaru is an evening activity, usually just after sunset when the birds are returning from their day's fishing at sea. The platforms enable viewing of the birds without disturbance. A minimal charge to view the penguins assists with the costs of monitoring and protecting the birds.

NATURE-SAILING BETWEEN ROTORUA AND COROMANDEL - From the N.Z. Backpackers News (see below)

The tide has been coming in for two hours as we board SLIPSTREAM at Pilot Bay, Mount Maunganui.
We are to navigate this sleek sailing catamaran through the shallows, sandbanks and mangroves of the Tauranga Harbour to Bowentown, 40 kms away. On board are Margarita from Germany, Bitand and Hans from Denmark, and Vinny from Holland. We hoist the sails in the freshening breeze as our skipper, Simon, trims the sheets and heads us up harbour. The sights and sounds of the busy commercial port fade astern as Slipstream accelerates to 20 km per hour.
There's plenty of time to detour around Motuhoa Island, site of early Maori settlement. A blue penguin swims quickly away as we tack through moored yachts off Omokoroa, a seaside village rich in early history. Approaching Flax Point we pass over large stones that, according to legend, came from the Tainui canoe after Maori migrated to New Zealand from Hawailki.
Centreboards and rudders are raised as we pass through the shallowest parts of the harbour--in knee deep water every shell is visible over the bow. We tie up at a mangrove island, away from people and teeming with marine and bird life. Using masks and snorkels we peer into the underwater forest. Here you can see darting fish, crabs and molluscs. A flounder, eyes protruding, lies camouflaged on the seabed. From here we drift across to Matakana Island for a picnic lunch. Sitting on this sandy beach, gazing across the water to the Kaimal ranges, we appreciate the isolation. There is no one else around.
With the tide running it's time to head for Bowentown, the northern entrance to Tauranga Harbour. We land and climb the headland--a pa site where Maori fortifications are easily recognized. The view is breathtaking. Kaimai ranges stretching to Coromandel Peninsula; out to sea the island sanctuaries of Tuhua and Karewa; Mount Maunganui in the distance.
Our final leg is to the calm waters of Tanners Point. We will stay overnight at Tahawal Lodge and continue to Hot Water Beach on the Coromandel tomorrow. Simon will take another crew from the Coromandel for the return trip to Tauranga and they will travel on to Rotorua.
Slipstream gave us a great days' sailing to an untouched part of New Zealand. Give it a try. Book through Action Stations 0800 66 6622 or call Simon Harmer 025 780 130 or after hours on 07 576 1841.
To Editor, Backpackers News:
My wife and myself, both retired, recently enjoyed a 3 1/2 week tour of the South Island. Using our trusty Lada stationwagon we decided to stay at backpackers hostels, an idea given us by another retired couple who made a similar trip last year. Having camped and caravaned the North Island for many years, we decided to give this new way of travel (to us) a go. We had some reluctance at first as we visualised big tough trampers sharing three tiered bunkrooms with us, and cooking our food on a primus stove, or even gathering firewood to perform our culinary arts.
As an old trout fisherman who roughs it occasionally, I've often experienced this kind of living, and of course love it. But, how wrong we were.
This holiday was a revelation to both of us, as every place we stayed in was first class. In all we stayed at 12 backpackers hostels in our 25 day trip and with the exception of one hostel, our accommodation was our own room with a double bed, all made up. They supplied sheets, blankets, duvets, pillows.
All rooms were heated, and maybe being 'oldies' we were always handy to kitchens, toilets and showers. We did take all our own bedding and cooking gear, but now know a good sleeping bag would cover any sleeping problems, and in future I would only take half the cooking gear as everything is supplied. One really only needs to supply food, and as chief cook I thoroughly enjoyed preparing meals with people from all over the world.
My wife enjoyed the trip as she had seen only the Canterbury area of the South Island, and our highlights were naturally Milford Sound and all those beautiful lakes. Also another exciting part of our trip was a free bungy jump from the Kawarau bridge in Queenstown, which I did.
In all we did 5,179 kms and zigzagged our way to as many cities and towns as was possible. To any other oldies like ourselves, I say give it a go. If you enjoy other people's company you will fit in with no problems. To the backpacker places where we stayed, a big thank you to you all. I must also mention that costs were never more than $18 per head per night, which saved us about $30 a day had we stayed in other accommodation, which meant a saving of $750 for the 25 day trip. We are now planning our next trip up around Coromandel, so may see you all up there.
Brian & Margaret Steele, Hastings

(The New Zealand Backpackers News opens the door for visitors to New Zealand! For absolutely no cost or obligation a complimentary copy of the newspaper will be mailed overseas. Contact NZ BACKPACKER'S NEWS. 50 Somme St., St Albans. Christchurch NZ).
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VOLCANO-HOPPING IN AUCKLAND
by Hilary Bower

Every morning I, and hundreds of other Aucklanders, jog around volcanoes. We walk our dogs, play cricket, fly kites and picnic on, and in, volcano cones, and build favored homes high on their terraced sides for the views.
In fact they are as much a part of the City of Sails' outdoor life as the harbor itself, and you can't go far without running into one.
Volcanoes have been erupting in the Auckland area for the past 60,000 years, on average about one every 1000 years. There are 63 spread throughout the city environs and all except the most recent, Rangitoto, which appeared in the middle of the Waitemata Harbor less than 700 years ago, are believed to be extinct.
Many are now parks, benigj't grass-covered mounds which offer city dwellers great views, wild walks on windy days, and a challenge for fitness breaks. Some have been quarried out of existence--much of early Auckland was built from hewed scoria stone and you'll still see scoria walls around many older city properties.
Sometimes the eruptions simply left huge circular depressions in the land which stretched for hundreds of yards, their tough rims masked by vegetation and houses. Some of these giant thumb prints, such as the Panmure and Orakei basins, have been invaded by the sea, leaving shallow tidal lagoons which draw sea birds and water skiers. Another, Lake Pupuke on the North Shore, is 70 yards deep and filled with fresh water which still seeps out to the ocean via the fine network of cracks in the ancient volcano's lava flow.
Other eruptions, such as those now called One Tree Hill (picked out by the obelisk and, yes, the lone totara tree on top), Mount Wellington, Mount Eden, the highest cone at 215 yards, and the Mangere Mountain, are classic volcano cones, city landmarks with their steep, deep craters, fire pits and ridged lava terraces, all now smoothed by a blanket of green.
These volcanoes were important Miori pa sites
--fortified villages wound their way up to a tihi or citadel where the tribal chief and tohunga (wise man) would live. The pa layout of One Tree Hill or Maungakiekie, meaning hill of the climbing plant kiekie, is virtually intact and one of the finest examples in the country.
Look closely when you walk or drive up and you can see the marks of the fortifications, the palisade foundations and ditches, and the farmed terraces and kumara pits of the living areas. Once your eyes adjust to the shapes of the land, you'll start recognizing them everywhere. Pre-European Maori fortifications were extremely sophisticated and their trench systems prefigured those used in World War I.
A volcano-hop through the city hits many of Auckland's sightseeing spots. The tranquil inner-city retreats of Albert Park and Auckland University sit up on a mound just above Queen Street, the city's main shopping area.
Over the Grafton Gully, Auckland Museum and The Domain top a rolling volcano mound that grandstands the city and harbor. On its slopes are the shop-filled painted villas of Parnell Village.
Take a short ferry trip across the harbor and you can explore the quaint shopping center (craft and cakes a specialty') of Devonport and two climbable cones, Mount Victoria (dubbed Flagstaff Hill because of the flags once hoisted to let the early settlers know what ships were on the horizon and whether they could expect letters from home), and North Head, the best vantage point for the Waitemata Harbor and the islands of the Hauraki Gulf.
On a sunny Sunday when the yachts are out in force, this is the place to understand why Auckland is called "City of Sails".
Out in the Hauraki Gulf itself, a half hour ferry ride from the city is the youngest and rawest of all the volcanoes--the perfectly symmetrical island that dominates city views and whose familiar outline is always a symbol of home for Aucklanders.
Rangitoto began erupting about 600 years ago and continued to pour lava into the sea in fits and starts, geologists believe, until only 200 years ago. According to Maori oral history, the eruptions filled the sky with distinctive red smoke and ash for hundreds of miles, and earned Rangitoto its name, which means red or bloody sky. An ancient legend of the Ngapuhi tribe describes how the first Maori found their way to New Zealand by steering by the "fire" at night and "smoke" during the day.
This island volcano has fascinated botanists from all over the world. Because of its youth, a layer of soil has not yet formed on the island, and fresh water simply drains straight through the porous pumice into the ocean. (In fact, the island holds captive a huge reservoir of some 38 million cubic yards of crystal clear water which floats as a "lens" right under the island on top of the denser sea water. The Auckland Regional Council has often looked at how they might viably tap this water source for an increasingly thirsty city.)
Yet somehow algae, lichens and mosses managed to sprout on the tumbled jagged inhospitable pumice that makes up the island, and as they have developed and decayed and grown again, a fine, spongy, fertile chocolate- brown humus which retains water has accumulated in the lava fissures to become "soil" for larger plants and trees.
As leaves fall, each tree creates an island of vegetation below it. There are now more than 160 flowering plants including 20 varieties of orchids, 40 types of fern and 100 varieties of moss and liverworts on the island. Even mangroves grow tenaciously on the loose lava.
For botanists, visiting Rangitoto is a unique opportunity to see plant life establishing itself from scratch. For other visitors, it's a neat walk between dramatically different worlds. One minute you are standing in a tumbled moonscape of burnt black-red lava which seems to smoulder and shimmer with the heat of absorbed sun; a step down the path you are in a dappled lush corpse of tall trees and soft ferns and mosses.
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Scoria-lined paths lead you right around the island and to its peak, where land and sea spread out spectacularly over 360 degrees in fish-eye lens fashion. Looking across to the mainland punctuated by Rangitoto's predecessors, you can't help wondering if you'll be araund to see the next lot of fireworks.
For further information on exploring Auckland and its volcanoes, contact the: New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd. 'Suite #300, Santa Monica CA 90401. Ph (310) 395-7480 OR (800) 388-5494.

BITS AND PIECES

* If you want advice on immigration to NZ, another source of information is: Garden City Immigration, Consultant Services, 240 Armagh Street, Suite 102, Christchurch NZ.
* Access: A Guide for the Less Mobile Traveler lists handicapped accommodations in New Zealand, It's free from the New Zealand Tourism Board, 501 Santa Monica Blvd. #300, Santa Monica CA 90401, or call 800-388-5494.
* A New Zealander has developed a beeper or alarm that sounds when you veer over to the wrong side of the road in your rental car. The invention has not yet been approved.
* It is said that Rotorua has 10,500 beds available to visitors every single night of the year!

SOUTHERN CROSS TOURS AWARD

Southern Cross Tours, Inc. has been selected to join the New Zealand Tourism Board's newly established NZ PAL Network of preferred travel agencies/tour operators. There are only 150 agencies nationwide specializing in New Zealand travel that have been chosen for this prestigeous designation.
As a NZ PAL affiliate, Southern Cross Tours, Inc. will receive qualified leads of potential travelers as well as collateral materials, regular updates on New Zealand travel products and other services in support of sales and training from the New Zealand Tourism Board. Consumers interested in visiting NZ can gain a wealth of information on the destination by booking their trip vis Southern Cross Tours.
(Southern Cross Tours, Inc., 9297 N. Government Wy, Ste B, Hayden Lake ID 83835. (800) 793-2999)

NEWZGRAM--The News Aerogramme of New Zealand
(Newzgram is a four page news aerogramme produced twice a month for Kiwis living abroad [and those of us who live elsewhere but love NZ]. For more information write to Newzgram, P0 Box 3882, Christchurch NZ. Ph. 3 355 9222/fax 3 355 9337.)
From Newzgram:

* NZ's immigration policies are being fine-tuned from October. The changes are aimed at attracting migrants who are more likely to be able to communicate in English, who have a pre-arranged job and close family members already in NZ.
* The standard cost of taking a car across Cook Strait on an Interisland ferry is increasing from October. The new standard one-way fare for a car will be $160. All cars will be charged the same amount. regardless of their size. Adult passengers will pay $44 for a crossing. NZ Rail has, however, introduced reductions for off-peak sailings and for bookings made in advance.
* A survey by Consumer magazine found that most Kiwis are satisfied with their experience of NZ's public health system, although there has been a significant increase in the proportion of people taking out medical insurance. Only 22% of those surveyed said they were dissatisfied with the length of time they had to wait for treatment in a public hospital.
* A Kiwi invention helped six bridges and two buildings survive the recent devastating earthquake in Kobe, Japan. The structures were supported by special bearings invented by Lower Hutt scientist Bill Bobinson. The lead-rubber bearings, which isolate structures from ground movement, also saved a hospital from serious damage during last year's Los Angeles earthquake. The bearings are being used in the new Museum of NZ building in Wellington.
* A group of companies in the fresh fruit and vegetable business have joined forces to counter the effect they say fast food chains are having on NZ diets. They have launched the 5 Plus a Day campaign to encourage Kiwis to eat at least five servings of fresh fruit and vegetables every day.
* The average price paid for a house in NZ has reached $130,000.


READERS - Write about your visit to New Zealand. Your story will interest and assist many who are planning their first or next visit to New Zealand. Don't worry about your writing ability. We can fix it up for you. Thanks.



KIA ORA!
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