Volume IX, No. 1
SEPTEMBER 1996
NEW ZEALAND SKI SEASON UNDAUNTED BY MT. RUAPEHU ERUPTION

Despite Mt. Ruapehu's recent eruptions, New Zealanders, hundreds of miles away on the South Island, geared up for the celebrated Queenstown Mount Cook Line Winter Festival which opened on June 22--the official kick-off of the country's ski season from June through October.
"Except for Mt. Ruapehu and immediately adjacent areas, most transportation services, sights and attractions in New Zealand are open and operating as normal," said Kathy Ward, regional vice president--the Americas for the New Zealand Tourism Board.
Ward said that New Zealand's four popular ski fields located on the South Island in the Southern Lakes region, near Wanaka and Queenstown, are open and have not been affected by the eruption. She added that given the country's fine ranges of terrain, breathtaking alpine scenery and recent heavy snowfall, tourism officials forecast that thousands of local and international skiers and snowboarders will race down New Zealand slopes the remainder of this winter.
Only the North Island ski fields of Turoa and Whakapapa evacuated staff who were preparing for the opening of the ski season, and most roads leading up to the snow-capped mountain remain closed. Authorities do advise against traveling to the immediate Mt. Ruapehu region until further notice. Tourism officials also confirmed that there have been no fatalities, injuries or subsequent evacuations as a result of the eruption.
For information on your visit to New Zealand and to get a copy of the 1996 New Zealand Vacation Planner, please contact the N.Z. Tourism Board at (800) 388-5494.

FROM CHINESE GOOSEBERRY TO KIWIFRUIT

In a 1987 National Geographic article, written by Noel D. Vietmeyer, he wrote, "Thirty years ago, growing up in New Zealand, I often sliced into a brown berry that looked like a duck's egg in a bristly hair shirt. Repulsive?
Not really, for I knew a secret: The berry's odd appearance disguised an equally exotic interior, a sun- burst of neat white streaks radiating from a cream-colored core, past tiny black seeds and into shimmering green flesh. Sweet-tart in taste, it seemed a succulent blend of strawberry, banana, melon, and pineapple flavors. Delicious! I loved the kiwifruit."
In early years in New Zealand the plant grew wild and was known as the "Chinese gooseberry." Originating in the Chinese Yangtze Valley, it has long been a favorite of the Chinese, glorified in poetry as early as the eighth century. Peasants there still gather the wild fruit for sale in rural markets.
The transformation of a small, hard, and wild Chinese berry into fleshier, tastier kiwifruit began about 1904, when a traveler returned from a China visit with seeds for Alexander Allison, a nurseryman on New Zealand's North Island. In the following three decades he and other gardeners developed superior kiwifruit vines through careful selection, pruning, and grafting. Most of these early fanciers were as much interested in the vine's showy white blossoms and attractive fan-shaped leaves as in its berries.
Kiwifruit farming got its commercial start in the 1930's, most successfully at Te Puke on the North Island's east coast. The warm, wet climate and volcanic soil at Te Puke favored the vines. Many commercial orchards were launched which further expanded during World War II when GIs stationed in New Zealand developed a taste for kiwifruit.
Tiny Te Puke is known as the kiwifruit capital of the world. Today the small local population swells to more than 10,000 from May to July, the picking season, and a Te Puke kiwifruit-packing and refrigeration house is the largest in the world.
Dairy farms that once surrounded Te Puke have virtually disappeared. An average hundred-acre farm can bring in more than a million dollars yearly if planted with kiwifruit. Male vines produce pollen to fertilize fruit- bearing females, and both sexes grow so vigorously--as much as eight inches in 24 hours--that unless constantly pruned, they throttle themselves in unresolvable tangles.
Uncrowded and green, New Zealand has one of the cleanest, most pollution-free environments in the
1


world. The land is young, the soils have only recently been turned, and they are fertile and free draining. Bright sunshine, abundant, fresh rainfall and moderate temperatures provide the ideal conditions for growing "the world's finest" kiwifruit. In the 1950s when the first fruit was exported to England and the US, New Zealanders held a contest to name the fruit, and "kiwifruit" won out.
The greatest trend in grocery shopping in the 1990s has been a swing toward fresh, unprocessed, wholesome food. Fruit and vegetables are the original convenience foods, ideal for a healthier lifestyle.
Kiwifruit meets consumers' needs for health- giving food in many ways. It offers more Vitamin C than oranges or lemons; a high content of Vitamin E; a potassium content second only to bananas but with less than 40 percent of the calories, and the fruit is one of the best sources of dietary fibre, containing fibre equivalent to four sticks of celery.
Kiwifruit's outstanding nutritional quality is its very high Vitamin C content. Worldwide scientific evidence has shown that Vitamin C can actively assist in the prevention of illnesses such as cancer and heart disease. It is valuable in preventing colds and flu and healing wounds. Vitamins C and E act as anti-oxidants, which, as well as carrying out their normal role of promoting healthy growth and healing, help fight off the destructive "free radicals" which play a major part in many diseases. Vitamin E is rarely found in other fruit, but is found in abundance in kiwifruit. It plays a vital role in the maintenance of healthy body cells, slowing the ageing process, aiding fertility and reducing the risk of heart disease.

HIGHLIGHTS OF OUR MARCH '95 AND '96
VACATIONS - By Paul & Reva Reifsnyder, New Mexico

SOUTH ISLAND
In Christchurch, the Windsor Private Hotel has an ideal location near the Botanical gardens and the old university. An ample breakfast in the dining room is included so you don't waste the early part of your day looking for food. The rooms are not small, and the down-the-hall showers, toilets, and wash basins are many.
In Kaikoura we all know about swimming with the dolphins, but equally interesting was the Seal Swim with 'Gramme". Some of the seals stay on the rocks but many were in the water close by (between 18 feet and 2 feet away) both times that I went. While they appear clumsy on land, they are in their element in the water. Gramme and his guides insure everyone understands we are guests in the animals' world.
In Nelson the wonderful Indian vegetarian restaurant Samadhi is closed (now a healing center), but the small Pharoah Restaurant has
great Middle Eastern food. Try the couscous pastry with a touch of Rose Water.
While the Abel Tasman Park is best seen by backpackers, the hike to Harwoods Hole and the partial view into it is well worth the 11 km drive on the dirt road. Also the short side trail up to a limestone outcrop has a different view--look for a pile of stones in the Harwood trail to mark the intersection.

NORTH ISLAND
Napier--the best things in New Zealand are not only free, but also no one talks about them. For example, the trails up and around Te Mata Peak take you through some old growth Redwoods as well as some nice vistas toward the top. Drive up Te Mata Peak road and park in the small lot on the right, soon after the archway entrance.
East Cape--the drive around the cape is scenic with not much traffic, worthwhile if you have an extra day and a half.
Whakatane- two major highlights here: Dolphins Down Under takes you out into the Bay of Plenty to swim with Common Dolphins. In other parts of New Zealand the Common Dolphins are not very interactive with humans, but here they are resident to the area and are used to human encounters. We were in an area with literally 1888 to 2888 of the mammals and I sometimes had twenty in my immediate vicinity. I had recently learned about the "dolphin kick" swim maneuver (knees and feet together, undulate from the waist) and found that they were very interested in me when I did it and would even do an imitation of me doing it--like a spoof of my attempt! Also since the water is warm enough that you don't need a hood (though still using a thin wetsuit), I could hear them better than at Kaikoura and also I felt their echolocation on my chest when they were "looking" for me.
From Whakatane there are two ways to get to White Island, an active volcano off-shore. There is a boat with a good lunch served on board, and the helicopter; either way includes a two-hour hike on the island. We took the aerial method and enroute saw below us the group of two thousand dolphins with whom we would be swimming the next day. The volcano has a constant plume of steam rising up. Once we had landed we were issued hard hats and gas masks (which we breathed through only when the wind would blow the sulfur type smells in our direction). It was a fascinating geology lesson as we looked into steam vents and the acid lake below, it was also noisy, with the sound of much steam forcing its way to the surface. This is probably the most accessible active volcano in the world.
Auckland--We have never been to Rotorua, so we can't really compare, but the Maori guided tour and song/ dance at the Auckland Museum gave us the best feel of native culture that we have experienced anywhere in the world. The tour through the exhibits with the Maori guide presents a good overview and then the "show" involves the audience in the fun.
2


RACEHORSES - From FOCUS

Racing is part of the fabric of New Zealand society, dating back to the early years of European settlement. The first thoroughbreds were landed in Wellington in 1840 and meetings were staged the same year in Auckland, probably by military garrisons. It's firmly recorded that races, on the flat and over jumps, featured as part of the first anniversary celebrations of the founding of Auckland, Wellington, Nelson, Otago and Canterbury.
In those pioneering years race meetings were important social and sports occasions and even today, when there are many counter-attractions, racing still has an atmosphere unmatched by other sports. Nothing else has the sustained excitement and colour of Cup Week in Christchurch, a mixture of thoroughbred and harness racing, or of the big Cup days in Auckland and Wellington.
Harness racing was slower to make its debut in New Zealand, but it too has developed legions of fans and in some parts of the country now has a stronger hold than the "gallops".
Today, thoroughbreds and standardbreds form an industry that employs, in one way or another, about 70,000 people and contributes substantially to the economy. Sales of yearlings to Australia and other overseas buyers are worth millions of dollars to New Zealand.
Eleven-year-old Blossom Lady is the present darling of New Zealand harness racing fans. She has 43 career wins, and has earned $1.3 million, the most by any mare in Australasia.

DRIVER RENTALS

Here is information regarding our services:
Although we are based in Rotorua, we will cover the entire country to do work for a client. We do, however, leave specialist local work to the locals in that area who specialise. Hence, we do not drive clients up to Cape Reinga, to Milford Sound, to Farewell Spit, to Cape Kidnappers, and so on, because in each of these places there is a local person doing these trips whose knowledge of the terrain, history, nature, etc. is superior to ours. If we want our clients to have the best, we have to bow to superior local knowledge and pass our customers on to the experts for these trips.
We work on the basis that the client has a rough idea of what they want to see and do and how much they can afford to spend, so when they contact us with an outline of a NZ trip, we will offer guidance based on the client's interests and the overall costs and expenses. We can then submit a range of itineraries costed out and then ask the client to choose the one that appears most suitable. However, at all times we are very flexible and can allow for the most way-out of interests or happenings.
Another point for clients to consider is - Don't come to NZ just for the scenery. Visit us for other
reasons - business, hobbies, exercise, studies - anything. And the scenery is here all the time for all to see without going out of one's way to see it. It is a bonus to be enjoyed along with everything else we can offer. Also, even though the weather between mid-January to mid-April is almost guaranteed to be rain-free, the remainder of the year can offer tours that are just as fulfilling. No one has seen a sight more spectacular than Milford Sound in the rain (and the annual rainfall at Milford is about 10 feet).
We work in closely with the major rental car companies and can obtain the latest models of vehicles at competitive prices from them. Being members of the New Zealand Bus and Coach Association we also have access to some of the best of the larger tour coaches in the country.
However we prefer to keep our trips to a small vehicle for a small group of people. In this way we can relate on a more personal basis with our clients. This method allows for a free flow of information between us and our passengers - in both directions. We have in the past divided larger groups into more than one vehicle so that we can maintain the flexibility we are famous for, and keep the rapport with our passengers that prevents our trips becoming impersonal. The basic itinerary in these cases remains the same, but the stops and little detours are tailored to those on board a particular vehicle.
(Trevor Norton, DRIVER RENTALS, 8 Miller Street, Rotorua, NZ. Phones: Mobile 025 427 595, Autofax 3489 508, afterhours 64 7 3484 129)

THE WHEEL THING'S GLITTERING PRIZES - by Judith Doyle, NZ Herald)

I joined the cycle tour at Wanaka with some trepidation. The 14 Americans and one other Kiwi had already crossed the Southern Alps, cycled down the West Coast, then over the Haast to Wanaka.
But I had forgotten what instant people Americans are. The preliminaries - "Where are you from" What do you do?" are negotiated speedily. They go out of their way to make me feel at home. One hurdle over.
More difficult is mastering The Machine--20 gears and all sorts of refinements. Following advice, I have bought a pair of lycra cycling shorts with imitation- chamois padding.
If you can imagine knee-long silk underwear over nappies, that is how they feel.
The helmet feels light and comfortable; so do the fingerless, leather-palmed gloves.
My partner as we set off from Wanaka is Sally Stanke of Montana. She is an old hand at cycling and has brought her own bike. The others, like me, have hired from the tour organiser, Auckland-based New Zealand Pedaltours.
We have a map of the day's ride, marking the route, the points of interest, where the steep bits are and where we are meeting for lunch.
3


It is a classic central Otago day. Lake Wanaka glitters and the glossy brown hills of central Otago glide past. Why hadn't I discovered cycle touring before? I'm on a high.
That first day through the spectacular Kawarau Gorge to Arrowtown was achieved without too much damage to the anatomy. And the following cycle to Queenstown is an easy half-day.
After two days in Queenstown, which rested my body but not my credit card, I set off to Omarama with confidence. But everything is out of kilter. My limbs feel tired and my tailbone increasingly sore.
It is a slow, relentless incline up the Undis Pass and it seems interminable. The headwind arrives and the gradient gets steeper. I get off and walk. The sweeper van--one precedes and one follows the tour party--comes looking for me.
I decide to give up this infuriating activity. My cycle goes into the trailer and I sink thankfully down inside.
But there is nothing like a good downhill and a miraculous change of wind direction. The other side of the Undis Pass provides a long, sweeping, curving ride down. It feels wonderful as the wind whistles through my hair, my parka flaps madly and the tussock races by. I am friends with my bike again.
Our route goes past Twizel and on towards Mt. Cook, alongside milky green Lake Pukaki. The mountains are etched sharply against a blue sky.
Mt. Cook is still posing for pictures as we settle into the Hermitage.
Next day, we cycle over Burke Pass--a doddle after the Lindis--to Fairlie. On the last day, we ride through lusher farming country, towards Geraldine and the Canterbury Plains.
My body is becoming adjusted to cycling now and tips from my more expert companions help.
"Couldn't you have done this trip independently?" one of the Americans asks. I doubt it. We meet cyclists with heavy panniers either side, a bulging carrier bag behind the cycle seat and another on the handlebars.
No thanks. I was puffing enough up those hills carrying only a camera and a water bottle.
Not that all the good food, quality accommoda- tion and tender loving care comes cheap. An eight-day Coromandel Peninsula tour is over NZ$1595; a 15-day Southern Alps tour NZ$3590. Hiring cycles adds a fur- ther $125 to $260.
Besides its regular trips, Pedaltours has special tours with accommodations tailored to its cusomer's needs.

FREE FOR THE ASKING - A new brochure of New Zealand's small luxury hotels

The just published 24 page full color Select New Zealand brochure is a collection of extraordinary hotels, vessels and lodges in New Zealand.
Grand scenery, friendly hosts, outstanding cuisine, and an incredible range of activities are common themes of all of the 16 properties listed in the new brochure. The collection offers the ultimate New Zealand experience for the discerning traveler.
New Zealand is special because it has perfected country lodge hospitality--and every one of its best lodges on both islands is represented in the new Select New Zealand brochure. Many of the properties are located conveniently close to the major cities. In Christchurch a charming boutique hotel is listed. In Auckland, the nation's largest city, the superb harborside setting is enjoyed to best advantage from the decks of two vessels listed in the brochure.
To obtain a free brochure contact:
Mike McClelland,
The Best of New Zealand,
2817 Wilshire Blvd.
Santa Monica CA 90403
Tel. (310) 998-5880
(800) 528-6129

(Ed. - The Best of New Zealand will offer you the best of service on your trip to New Zealand. They took care of my arrangements last year and I couldn't have asked for more.)

NEWS FROM MARLBOROUGH SOUNDS

We have finished an extremely busy summer; more Americans than in previous years which is just fine by us. I well remember having some very lively discussion about every imaginable subject!
A few months back we bought our first computer, and after weeks of hair-tearing frustration, we have gotten most of our B&B information on database and are now getting the remainder of our filing cabinet updated. I can tentatively say that are in control of it. most of the time anyway.
The Mail Run is always enjoyable for our American guests; the Dolphin Watch people do an excellent job of running "ecotours" for as few as 2 people (scheduled service). On the enclosed Discover Picton brochure I have inked a small section of the bay adjacent to the main harbour--this is the 18 acre reclamation currently underway in Shakespeare Bay for a purpose-built log handling facility. Marlborough is the second largest exotic plantation area in NZ with much of the forestry coming to maturity over the next few years. The inked cross shows an old freezing works, now demolished, and a huge cutting through that area to enable the road, and later rail, to go round that side of the main Picton harbour and through into Shakespeare Bay. The oblong shows where a new sandy beach is to be formed over the next few months, below and to the left is a circle which is The Gables. The line above and to the left of us is where a large two storey building is to be demolished to make way for a new motel complex.
4


The Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company are also doing an excellent job--and the Queen Charlotte Walkway is proving to be a real boost for this area. We hope to walk some of it ourselves before the next busy season so will be able to give you some firsthand info.
As soon as the "off-season" arrived I started right into our winter maintenance, and have made quite a number of improvements to the house, and made the exterior ready for painting which hopefully I will do through the springtime.
We have had a marvellous mention in the Frommer Travel Guide, and only a few days ago a Californian guest sent us a copy of an article in the Travel section of The Record newspaper which mentioned us by name, so we were not only thrilled for ourselves but pleased to know that the entire article was written in such an upbeat manner.
Hospitality Hosts is a network I established about this time last year, and right now I am in the middle of updating for the 96/97 season. The first season produced very few small problems but heaps of accolades and appreciation from guests and hosts alike. This year I expect to have 27 hosts, improve the standards and get more brochures overseas. I will send you a copy, probably in October.

Dick Smith, The Gables,
Box 88, Picton NZ

(Ed. Dick has sent along a number of great brochures-- "The Magic Mail Run", "Motuara Island Bird Sanctuary", "Beachcomber Fun Cruises", "The Queen Charlotte Walkway", "Hospitality Hosts", "Discover Picton". Write to him at the above address to get these.)

FREE NZ FLY FISHING BROCHURE JUST OUT

New Zealand is a fly fisherman's dream, or an "Anglers' Eldorado" as author Zane Grey penned over 70 years ago.
And now a new, FREE brochure is available from THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND FLY FISHING, with the most comprehensive review of the full range of fly fishing opportunities in New Zealand. Detailed descriptions, prices and pictures of the top lodges; professional guides; local farm & home stays; wilderness float trips; helicopter fishing; and extensive information on fly fishing in New Zealand are all featured in the brochure.
The 52-page color brochure also contains fly fishing instructions for large trout in New Zealand; methods for stalking and spotting trophy trout; a 12 month fishing calendar; and a full section on Saltwater fishing.
To obtain your free brochure contact:
Mike McClelland
The Best of New Zealand Fly Fishing,
2817 Wilshire Blvd.,
Santa Monica, CA 90403.
Tel. (800) 528-6129.
MAGICAL MEDICINE - From NEXT Magazine

Tea tree oil, the essential oil distilled from the leaves of the Australian tea tree, has been used as a multi- purpose medicine by Australian Aborigines for aeons. As a disinfectant, it's reputed to be 100 times stronger than carbolic acid, but it's completely safe on the skin. It also has a phenomenal reputation for its antifungal and anti- bacterial properties, making it an invaluable treatment for everything from athlete's foot to gingivitis. (It was issued to Australian soldiers in their first aid kits during WW1).
Healtheries in New Zealand has released a full range of Thursday Plantation products which make much use of the mighty oil. New additions include a shampoo and conditioner, as well as a Tea Tree Foot Spray, Tea Tree Vegetable Soap, and herbal Skin Wash.

QUEEN CHARLOTTE WALKWAY - From the N.Z. Backpackers News (see below*)

The Marlborough Sounds at the top of the South Island is one of the most beautiful and tranquil places in New Zealand--an intricate maze of waterways, attractive beaches and lush green bush. Immerse yourself in the charms of the area by exploring the Queen Charlotte Walkway. The 58km walkway is a spectacular tramping route through privately owned land and Department of Conservation reserves in the Marlborough Sounds.
The walkway links Anakiwa and historic Ship Cove, passing through lush coastal forest, around sandy bays and along skyline ridges, offering unsurpassed views of Queen Charlotte and Pelorus Sound.
The track can be completed in sections or as a three to four day tramp. The beauty of the walk is that visitors are able to break the journey at the many hostels, hotels, and campsites along the route.
Local launch owners can ferry you to the various access points in the Queen Charlotte Sound, a popular starting point being Ship Cove, a favourite stopover of Captain James cook. He so loved the place that he visited it no less than five times. A memorial to Cook is flanked by a cannon, a gift from the British Admiralty.
From Ship Cove the track ascends through majestic beech forest and across the saddle to Resolution Bay. The track then drops down through easy bush track to Endeavour Inlet and breathtaking views.
In fact superb views surround you every step of the way--native bush, a backdrop of grand forest trees, and the bluest of blue waters. Further around from Endeavour Inlet another treat awaits--the picturesque Punga Cove. On the Portage to Mistletoe Bay section there are panoramic views from the main ridge separating Kenepuru from Queen Charlotte Sound.
The walkway is well defined and suitable for people of average fitness. The section between Kenepuru Saddle and Portage Saddle is the most difficult, but other sections provide pleasant day walks.
5


It is thanks to the cooperation of local landowners that the walkway is open so please respect all property. The fire risk is high at any time of the year so fires should only be lit in official campsites. It is necessary to carry gas or spirit fuel stoves for cooking at campsites along the walkway.
The Department of Conservation offers campsites at Umungata Bay, Mistletoe Bay, Bay of Many Coves SaddLe, Kumutoto Bay, Ruakaka Bay, Camp Bay, Endeavour Inlet and Resolution Bay.
There is also accommodation available at Punga Cove, Endeavour Inlet, Endeavour Resort, Furneaux Lodge, The Portage at Kenepuru Sound, and Resolution Bay.

WONDERS OF NORTHLAND - Backpackers News

Part of New Zealand's North Island includes one of the country's most beautiful regions.
We mean, of course, the enchanting Bay of Islands where the weather is warm, the skies are blue most of the time, and the action/adventure potential for backpackers is wide open! There's something for everyone when it comes to outdoor activities.
A perfect place to experience the ultimate adventure--a Tandem Skydive, with views second to none as you climb to 9000ft over the Bay. Or go sailing and discover the Bay, or why not charter a boat and learn to sail? Mountain biking opens up great native bush tracks with unforgettable views and fishing's easy in this fisherman's paradise. Something different? Try kayaking through mangroves to a spectacular waterfall.
You'll hear and read a lot about the Bay of Islands, but there is no substitute for seeing it for yourself. The many islands set in a picture-postcard sparkling sea, the sandy beaches and secluded coves make up a maritime park that's a dream for anyone with a love of boats, beaches and bathing.
Tours to visit and enjoy in the Bay of Islands are Kerikeri with its wonderful citrus orchards and village atmosphere; Paihia--picturesque seaside resort just humming with tourist activity, fine shops and in a gorgeous setting with its golden beach and bustling lifestyle, and Russell, across the Bay, the cradle of European settlement in New Zealand, beautifully manicured, clean and shining in the sun! And of course many of the islands in this superb region can be visited on local tour boats, the crews using their vast local knowledge to guide trips to the Beautiful sheltered bays.
The Bay of Islands must be an essential part of your Northland expedition.

(*The New Zealand Backpackers News opens the door for visitors to New Zealand! For absolutely no cost or obligation a complimentary copy of the newspaper will be mailed overseas. Contact: NZ BACKPACKER'S NEWS, 50 Somme St., St. Albans, Christchurch, New Zealand).
NZ BACKPACKERS TRAVEL CENTRE

Auckland Central Backpackers, the winner of the 1994 New Zealand Tourism award for best budget accommodation, is also home to New Zealand's largest domestic adventure travel shop. Auckland Central Travel is open 7 days per week from 8am-8pm, its crew are all Kiwis who know and love their country. We want you to experience and enjoy our country as much as we do. That means finding you the best possible deal to travel around, helping you get off the beaten track not to mention having some pretty serious fun along the way.
Auckland Central Travel is the largest domestic adventure travel shop in New Zealand, and we are able to offer you deals you won't find anywhere else. Rental cars are from as little as $25 a day, campervans from $50 a day. We are major agents for Kiwi Experience, Magic Bus, Rail and coach companies, Ansett and Air New Zealand, all leading adventure operators such as AJ Hackett Bungy, Tandem Skydiving. Whitewater Rafting, and much more. Not only do we have all the information you could ever want, we offer the best deals where you may receive free Tshirts, videos, photos and great discounts on your adventure activities.
If you would like information for travelling around and what to do--please contact us now!

Kate,Monique,Brad, Matt, Briar & Simone,
THE CREW, Auckland Central Backpackers,
9 Fort St., Auckland, NZ.
Phone (09) 358-4874. Fax (09) 358-4871.

OUR VISIT TO NEW ZEALAND - Feb. 16-Mar. 3, 1996 - by John Proctor, Stillwell, Kansas
First I would like to give an overall view of the trip, listing the places we stayed overnight so that your readers can get a general idea of where we were. We drove a rental car, started in Auckland, to Rotorua, to Wellington (crossed to Picton via ferry), to Kaikoura, to Christchurch, to Twizel, to Cromwell, to Te Anau, to Milford Sound, to Queenstown, to Franz Josef Glacier, to Greymouth, to Nelson, to Picton, to Hastings, to Turangi, to Whakatane, to TePuru, to Whangarei, and back to Auckland. Yes, you are right, this was too much to see in 3 weeks. If I replanned the trip I would spend at least 6 weeks doing what we did. It was too strenuous keeping on schedule with the driving, and frustrating to have to skip many places that we wanted to see. The choice is, take 8 weeks to see New Zealand all in one trip, or take two 4 week trips. I would also tell you that I spent 6 months planning our trip, putting it on a map and detailing the places where we wanted to go and what we wanted to see.. It is absolutely essential to get a good road map and fiture out every road and stop. It saved us a lot of time and arguing.
We had made arrangements for motels with the best Western Motel chain, and had to prepay them to get the best price. By doing this, all flexibility is gone. That caused us some problems, but we got through it with a minimum of trouble. We observed in many places that the
6


motels were full by 5:30 or 6. Also, we often pack a lunch when traveling, and planned on doing so in NZ, but found out that the small tea houses were often better than packing a lunch--not expensive, quick and always a good choice of food. We always found a nice one, visited with the owners, and enjoyed the lunch.
We arrived in Auckland in the early evening, after the Maui rental office had closed! I was aware of the hours they were open and had called from Melbourne to let them know we would be late, and they made arrangements to have us pick up the car at a hotel near the rental office. The only problem was that I didn't know who to contact at the hotel, and the first person I talked to knew nothing about it. It took several calls, and finally a kind woman in the United Airlines office called them and got to the right person, and even took us over to the hotel, and it went smoothly from there on. The girl at the hotel was well informed and gave us a lot of help. We rented from Maui as they were the best price, and we kept the car going over on the ferry. I know it costs a lot to do that, but we didn't want to unload the car and reload.
AUCKLAND:
Lots to see! Spend at least 3 days to see
the highlights. Kelly Tariton's was great. We had learned from previous traveling--get to all popular tourist stops when they open to avoid the buses and crowds. This is no exception. We were there from opening to 12:30 and could have stayed longer. The lunch room there, on the water, is scenic and has good food.
We were staying at the Barry Court Motor Inn, only a short way from the Parnell Rose Gardens and the Parnell area of Auckland. The rose gardens were quite nice in February, but the lady taking care of them told us that she considered them very poor at that point. She said come in June!
We could walk two blocks to the Parnell district, a lovely 6 block area--lots of interesting shops and places to eat. Prices are about the same as in the US so we didn't buy much. We walked there 3 times, and saw a different area each time. I would tell anyone to take time to go there.
We also went to the wharf area, just beyond the Parnell Gardens. There were several very nice places to eat, and we looked at the America's Cup boats. The Mt. Eden overlook would have been great, but it was getting overcast, yet still a very worthwhile view.
Auckland to Rotorua : Left Auckland by 10 AM after
traffic had cleared, which was a mistake. We should have left before traffic started, made the drive to Waitomo to see the Glow Worm Caves--interesting, and everyone needs to see it once. Went on to the Otorohanga Wildlife Park. You have to see the Kiwis and other wildlife. No tours, so not crowded. Easy drive from there to Rotorua. ROTORUA (2 days): This was one of our trip goals. We stayed at the Thermal Gardens, very nice, clean and quiet--a nice pool, and gracious hosts, as always, ready with the bottle of milk. This was one of the things we didn't expect or read about. Each time we checked into a they had a one-half pint bottle of milk ready for us. Usually it was in a glass milk bottle like we used to have in the US.
It was especially appreciated because one requirement for our lodgings was a kitchenette. We want to eat breakfast in our room when we travel. It takes so much less time, and is an expensive meal to eat out, both from the time standpoint and money.
We found the THC Hotel where we had made reservations to attend the Hangi dinner and native dance! concert. We were not disappointed. It was very interesting, with good food. There may be a better one, but it was fine.
We went to the Waiotapu Thermal Reserve first, because it was the farthest from Rotorua. We arrived at 8:30 before they opened--a good move, because by the time we left at 10:30 it was so crowded with buses and people you couldn't find a place to park, and every site was so crowded you couldn't take a picture. Of course we then went to the Lady Knox Geyser show. Again, get there by 10:30 or you won't get a place to park or to take a picture.
After visiting this thermal area, the Waimangu Valley and the Whakarewarewa area, I consider the Waiotapu Thermal area the most interesting. Having said that, the Waimangu Valley area is very nice and shouldn't be missed, perhaps better from the standpoint of being isolated and scenic. Due to the fact that you have to walk a long way, and there are very few if any buses, there are no crowds.
It's all down hill, through the valley to a large lake, formed by a great earthquake that covered up the Pink Terraces and a great deal of the historic part of New Zealand's thermal area. They will pack a lunch for you and bring it to the boat if you take the cruise. The walk down into the valley was very peaceful and quite easy.
We went back to Rotorua, stopping at the Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve. This was the least interesting thermal area as far as we were concerned, although the buildings were interesting. Of the most interest was the arts and crafts institute, and we enjoyed watching some of the Maori craftspeople at work.
We had dinner at Aorangi Peak restaurant, which was wonderful. We had been warned that dining is not like in other areas. Most of the restaurants are very small, and if you don't get a reservation by 4 or 4:30 you will probably not be able to eat at a restaurant of your choice. That was the situation we often found throughout NZ. We had no problems, because we already knew the restaurants we wanted to eat in and made reservations, but we observed lots of people disappointed to not be able to get in. The Aorangi Peak restaurant had a wonderful view, excellent food and nice waiters--really a great dining experience, and one I would recommend to anyone.
Rotorua to Wellington - It was very overcast our last day in Rotorua, with a front moving in, and on the morning of the 18th when we left it was starting to rain. We had planned on going around to see Mt. Ruapehu, but that was out of the question--low clouds, no views, so we just took
7


our time and drove straight to the Glen Alton Motor Inn in Wellington. We had a lot of places to see on the way, but most of them were rained out. We did stop at Huka Falls--it cleared up for a short time just at mid-day. Found the Huka Lodge, a very nice place. If any of you readers want to stay in luxury, relax and see the rich people, this is the place--US$200 per day. It's on the river, and they specialize in guided trout fishing trips on the river in front of the lodge. At least stop and visit, stay for lunch if you can afford 2 hours and $50.00.
There is an excellent military museum just south of Bulls. The steam engine museum at Paekakariki looked interesting, but is only open on Saturday, 9 to 4. Due to the fact that it was raining and we had rearranged our route with no stops, we were too early to eat at the good places on the ocean north of Wellington. The Fisherman's Grille looked great, but it was 2 PM when we went past, and raining hard.
Due to the rain we didn't do much in Wellington except get lost, but we did find the Beehive Parliament building, and a place to eat. Wellington has to be one of the most difficult places to drive in I have ever been, up and down, with one-way streets, but we persevered.
We were to take the morning ferry, so we traced our route from the motel to the ferry docks. Based on past experience, we knew that obtaining tickets the night before would save a lot of hassle in the morning, and we were right. If you don't have a ticket in the morning, you had to get out of the auto line, go into the ticket office and stand in the people line to get tickets, and then get back into the auto line. Unless you know what's going on, this could mean you will not get a seat on the ferry, and you will stand up and walk around for the duration of the trip. (to be continued)

LETTER BOX

I enclose an article from the Rotorua Daily Post, dateline 6/17/96, re. the eruption of Mt. Ruapehu. My friend Phyll Moore of "Silverfern Tape Recording Club" complained that persons with respiratory problems were confined to their homes, that washing could not be hung outside on the line, and that cars might sustain scratch damage from the ash.
When we first traveled to New Zealand in October '92, we stayed in timeshare exchanges. One was in Turangi and the second at Lake Edge Resort on Lake Taupo. I am certain that both of those locations received even more ash than Rotorua did. Let's hope things are better now.
Good news! Our good friends Ken and June McAuley, formerly of Oamaru, have joined Affordable Travel Club (6556 Snug Harbor Lane, Gig Harbor WA 98335). They welcome B&B guests to their new homestay near Hook (South Island) on a farm where they raise deer. June is one of the best cooks in New Zealand.
Another friend Janet Millar who also manages a B&B (10 Ngaroma Road in the Epsom area of Auckland) has generously granted permission to share her recipe for muesli. It makes a large batch, so give some to friends and relatives. I guarantee they will love you for it! Here it is:
TELL THEM YOU SAW IT IN
THE KIWIphile FILE!!!
John's Muesli
2 lbs rolled oats
1 1/2 c wheat germ
1 1/2 c coconut
1 1/2 c raisins
1 1/2 c nuts
1 lb chopped dates
1 c sesame seeds
1 c sunflower seeds
1/2c non-fat milk powder
1/2 tsp sea salt (optional)
1 1/4 c soya oil
1/2 c liquid honey
Mix dry ingredients, then stir in oil and honey. Spread on jelly roll pans and bake 15 minutes @300. Cool and store in an airtight container.... Enjoy!
We look forward to our third trip to NZ but probably won't be able to manage it until Februrary '98. Would that our favorite destination were closer and less expensive via air miles! We have seen some bargain fares from now through August but we wouldn't care to travel during harsh winter weather.
Bob & Kitty Baler, Anaheim CA

First of all, the name pim--those are my maiden name initials and from the time I was very small, when I would pass my paper to someone to correct it and vice versa, we would have to initial it and the kids picked it up and I've always been called that. At one time I did hand-carved seagulls on drift- wood pieces--and put the little seagull over the "i" -- now I just call it the holy spirit!
It will definitely be Down Under come October 1977--have a BIG group interested and of course it is one of my favorite trips.
pim Dodge, Frankfort MI
(pim's Down Under trip: Flying from LA, we arrive in Sydney where we will spend three days, then it's on to Canberra, the capital, for a night and down to Albury. We will then be in Melbourne for a couple of nights and from here you may opt for the tour of Phillips Island and a visit to the Fairy Penguins. As most of you know, I rave on and on about this sight--one of the greatest thrills of my tours.
From Melbourne we fly to Christchurch on the South Island of New Zealand and spend five days there-- viewing the Southern Alps and some of the most spectacular scenery you will ever see.
I am SO pleased to see that the company now offers an excursion to Milford Sound--a highlight of the tour of "Down Under." Last year we chartered planes to go there. Not to be missed!
The option has now been reversed and the North Island is offered--five days for $498 and one that I highly recommend. (Another option is the Great Barrier Reef pre-tour--six days at $848 and then meeting up with the rest of the group in Sydney.)
The price for the October 1997 departure {and this is the best time to go for it is their springtime} is $3098.00 for 17 exciting days.)
8


NEW ZEALAND ECOTOURING (Information from Otago Happenings)
In a world which is becoming increasingly dominated by high-powered commercial tourist operators, it is satisfying to know that there are still some places in the world where nature lovers can indulge their need to get away from the stresses and strains of urban life.
Tucked away in the vast remoteness of the South Pacific Ocean is one such place--the islands which make up New Zealand. Of course organised packaged tours still predominate and for some people this is the preferred way to travel. However, an increasing number of visitors are opting to take advantage of the almost unlimited variety of walks and treks ranging from a few hours to a few days or more in this country.
In many parts of the world industrialisation, exploitation of raw material resources leading to pollution of the atmosphere, waterways, soil and forests has concerned scientists and environmentalists everywhere. and has raised awareness of the urgent need for conservation measures. This concern has in turn led to the development of a new activity called ECOTOURISM.
Just about everywhere you go in New Zealand, either in or within a short distance of every city or town there are signposted walks where you stroll at leisure and enjoy the peace and tranquility of the forest and its bird life. This can be incredibly satisfying and relaxing.
For the more active and adventurous there are many local operators who cater for and organise group walks to points of interest as well as accommodation and meals.
Visitor and Information centres can provide full detail in each vicinity.
Here is a description of one such ECOTOUR in the lower South Island.
Fergus and Mary Sutherland have been guiding visitors through the rich beauty of the Catlins region for many years. Their Baiclutha-based business, Catlins Wildlife Trackers, has succeeded in the Ecotourism field due mainly to their dedication to conservation.
Their award-winning two and three day tours soak up the Cathns landscape. Located on the South Otago coast this area is a remote and idyllic part of native New Zealand.
The Sutherlands' tour is an all-inclusive package for up to eight people, including accommodation and meals at their house in Papatowai with its "million-dollar views" over forest and ocean. Here, visitors are treated to garden-fresh homecooked meals and all the comforts of family life. The guestroorns provide cosy single, twin and group accommodation.
The ecotours are personal and flexible enough to allow for individual interests. The Sutherlands' combined wealth of knowledge and information on the area is passed on in a friendly and informal manner. There is no rush on the tour because taking in the Catlins slowly is the best way to see it.
Although no two tours are the same, the most frequently visited areas include Nugget Point wildlife reserve, a beech forest or rainforest, a waterfall (there are about 70 in the Catlins), Yellow-eyed penguins, the Cathedral Caves, Lake Wilkie and Tunnel Hill. The three- day tour ventures further south, to the likes of spectacular Curio Bay.
Two-day tours depart on Monday, Thursday and Saturday, while the three-day tour is usually once a month. The Sutherlands will pick up and return guests in Balclutha, which is itself well serviced by transport operators going south to Te Anau or Invercargill, or north to Dunedin or Christchurch. Bookings for Catlins Wildlife Trackers can be made at Visitor Centres or by phoning Fergus or Mary at (03) 415-8613.

ROCK DRAWINGS - from OTAGO HAPPENINGS

Interested in rock art? North Otago on South Island's southeast coast has one of New Zealand's most extensive Maori rock art, providing a link with ancient Maori history.
From the town of Oamaru it is only a short journey up the Waitaki River Valley to Duntroon and the base from which to explore these mysterious works scattered over 160 sites. Two main ones are available to the public, but others can be visited by arrangement.
Until about 500 years ago eroded limestone outcrops in the South Island were commonly used as shelter by itinerant hunting parties. The Maori would draw on rock, using pieces of charcoal from their fires. Sometimes they would use volcanic red ochre.
The rock drawings common to North Otago have a "family" likeness with individual subjects--the most recognised of which is a stylised version of the human form (in silhouette) with arms and legs flexed. Facial features were never shown and other animals, mostly dogs, birds and fish, drawn in profile. Quite fascinating.
The Visitor Information Centre at Oamaru is happy to help and there are a wide variety of excellent accommodations available.

HOLLYFORD VALLEY WALK

Dear Eva: My son Matthew and his wife Rachel were up from Queenstown this week attending the big Trade Tourism Exchange held here yearly.
He tells me he is now on "e-mail" at the. office.
He can be contacted at hvwalk@voyager.co.nz
or Home Page: http://nz.com/webnz/Queenstown/HVWalk.htm
I wonder also if your readers would be interested to know that I have a holiday home available on a self- catering/self-cleaning basis as follows:
Pauanui (near Tairua) on historic Coromandel Peninsula 2 hours drive SE from Auckland, or 3/4 hour
9


hour east of Thames. Pauanui is a fully planned holiday resort bordered by a 2-mile long ocean beach and Tairua Harbour; 2 10-hole golf courses; interesting marina development, etc. Cottage sleeps 8. Area ideal for quiet unwinding! Enquiries to J. D. Rose, Pineapple Cottage, 27 Shipherds Ave., Epsom, Auckland 1003, NZ--phone (09) 630 3542

Dear Eva: Thank you very much for the first 2 copies of KIWIphile that I have received. Dad was very generous to offer me the 2-year subscription, and I will look forward to future editions.
As per the letter you reprinted from Dad in the June issue, I am running the Hollyford Valley Guided Walk. I attach for your reference a fact sheet which explains in greater detail our company's operation, and also a couple of copies of our new season brochure. It is fitting to re-emphasize that we offer more than a walk - it is a unique wilderness adventure experience in Fiordland. Because the Hollyford Track is a low-level valley flack, it is flat along almost the entire 56 km of its length. Consequently, walkers of a more general level of fitness are able to successfully complete the distance. Guests actually only carry their small packs for the first 17 km of the journey to the first night's lodge. The next day travel becomes easier with an exhilarating jet boat ride down the Hollyford River and Lake McKerrow to Jamestown. This is an old historic township that you featured in your September and December 1994 issues in an article titled New Zealand's "Town That Never Was", written years ago by "unknown author" Jack Dobson. Our tours consequently have a very real focus on history, for the area is indeed where New Zealand's true pioneering spirit was forged. In addition, there is also a very close hand experience with all the flora and fauna in the region, which is unique, given our locality in this pristine World Heritage Area - seals, penguins, bird life, mosses, lichens, and so much more abounds.
Those interested can contact me at Hollyford
Valley Walk Ltd., P.O. Box 360, Queenstown NZ. Tel. 0-3-442 3760, Fax 0-3-442 3761. (See e-mail address above)
Matrthew J. M. Rose, Managing Director

OPPORTUNITIES FOR AU PAIRS IN US

Until this year, living and working in the United States and providing childcare services was possible only for young people from the European Community.
But in January this year, US President Bill Clinton signed legislation widening the scope of countries from which au pair candidates could be recruited.
New Zealand is now included through the Auckland-based exchange programme, ARK International and its relationship with AuPairCare of San Francisco. This au pair programme is monitored by the US Information Agency which sets rigorous standards.
AuPairCare is a cultural exchange programme where suitable young New Zealand women who are betweeen 19 and 26 years of age who enjoy looking after children can be placed for a year in host families across the US.
The au pairs provide up to 45 hours of child care each week in carefully controlled situations. In return, they receive subsidised air fares, insurance coverage, weekly allowances, educational funding, paid vacation time and the network of a major and experienced exchange programme to monitor them. All this is available for under $NZI400. The au pair can travel from New Zealand to join her family at any time of the year.
This program may be of interest to readers or to someone they know. The U.S. Information Agency is the place to contact.

LAST MINUTE INFO. -- from Tom Ganganelli, Calif. Trevor and Noeline Reynolds operate a B&B
located on about a 10 acre plat of ground, about half-way between the towns of Raetihi and Ohakune (central North Island). On a clear day you get a tremendous view of Mt. Ruapehu from their dining-room window, especially if you sit at the end of their table. I spent almost 6 mom NZ about 3 years ago, and of all the places, mostly B&B's, where I stayed, their place was by far the best place, bar none.
The Reynolds are extremely gracious hosts. Living with them is Noeline's mum Elizabeth, a spry old lady of about 93 years old and sharp as a tack. I was so impressed with their accommodations and hospitality, that I purposely went back to their place two more times by rearranging my itinerary. One time, since I wanted to take a NZ train trip, I left Auckland one morning and early that same afternoon, they picked me up at the railroad station in Ohakune. I was treated just like one of the family and they gave me the run of the place, even letting me use their car.

WHITE ISLAND TOURS
Pee Jay III is a fast modern semi-planing launch powered by twin 435hp motors. Spacious and comfortable. On-toard toilet. Jet powered Zachery. Three crew all certified launch-masters. Seats 22 passengers. 2-hour guided tour, gas masks and hard hats provided.
Departs Quay St., Whakatane daily, weather permitting. Phone 64-07 312 9075. Fax 64-07 312 9534.
READERS - Please send in articles and letters for the next issue. I need them by Nov. 1st. Thank you.
10