SEPTEMBER 1998

Volume XI, No. 1

THE DEEPER JOURNEY

"Indigenous peoples are one of the world's most persistent voices of conscience, alerting humankind to the dangers of environmental destruction. And as the world searches for alternative strategies to deal with global problems, it is turning more and more to indigenous peoples. Much of their respect for nature, their methods of resource management, social organization, values, and culture are finding echoes in the writings of scientists, philosophers, politicians, and thinkers."- Julian Burger, The Gaia Atlas of First Peoples: A Future for the Indigenous World.

The Maori, New Zealand's indigenous people, offer travelers more than a superficial taste of their culture. The Tai Tokerau Maori Tourism Association is committed to provide unique Maori experiences that embody "spiritual journeys, mythical waka voyages, and mystical visions of their birthplace." They see tourism as a vehicle to educate and share knowledge with all people as to the pride, strength, and history of Maori culture and Maori people. They aim to capture the market of "authentic Maori experiences."

For them authenticity is about Maori participation and control and the subsequent retention of cultural integrity. It is about sharing their lifestyles, values, myths, legends within the world. It is about reflecting cultural integrity, pride and dignity. Tai Tokerau look at integrating the Maori experience in a range of tourism products, offering a cultural experience for those who want a deeper journey. For more information, Ph 011 649 4026188 or Fax 011 649 4026189.

WORM TRUFFLES AND WHITEBAIT - YUM YUM

The Wildfoods Festival, to be held in Hokitika on March 13, 1999, is a celebration of the South Island's West Coast's unique lifestyle, food, and hospitality. The locals describe the festival as an

"extravaganza of gourmet bush tucker" based on the area's natural food sources, from the land and sea, served in innovative ways.

The emphasis is on novel, tasty, and healthy wildfood. Possum pate, spagnum moss candyfloss, worm truffles, and West Coast whitebait are some of the delicacies that will be offered.

This year will mark the 9th successive year of the festival which has grown steadily in its popularity, attracting crowds of nearly 14,000 - four times the local population. As well as the food and drink experiences, there will be continuous entertainment. For more information, Ph 011 643 755 8322 or Fax 011 643 755 8026.

NEW ZEALAND SPORTS EVENTS -

Stephen Mangum

New Zealand has been awarded another major international sporting competition. The International Rugby Board has accepted a joint bid from Australia and New Zealand to co-host the fifth Rugby World Cup in 2003. This repeats the successful format of the inaugural tournament held in 1987 when the All- Blacks defeated France at Auckland in the championship game. The World Cup is to attract a global television audience of close to one billion viewers along with a substantial increase in tourism. The test matches will be played in major venues in both nations, with the final to be held in Sydney.

The RWC is reportedly the third most watched sporting event, topped only by the Olympics and the Soccer World Cup. Contrary to one of many erroneous statements emanating from France this summer, the Soccer World Cup is not the last major global sporting event of the millenium. That honor belongs to the fourth RWC to be hosted by Wales from October 1, 1999 through November 6, 1999.

Congratulations to the New Zealand women's rugby team for their outstanding performance in winning the 1998 Rugby World Cup. The Kiwis received tremendous support from the homeland and

fans around the world. New Zealand swept through their preliminary matches with Germany, Scotland, and Spain and overpowered England in the semifinal match, 44-11. The championship game was held on May 16 in Amsterdam, Holland, and the All Blacks won a decisive victory over a veteran United States team, 44-12. The commonly held view of all who saw the games is that the Kiwis have lifted the women's game to a new level.

KiWiphile readers in the U.S. who love New Zealand and sports can often catch a glimpse of the beautiful green isles on "Championship Rugby" which airs on the Fox Sports Net. Tapes of recently played games are also shown Sundays at 4 PM PDT on the International channel which is available on many cable systems. Although it features games from around the world, these frequently include games from various sites in New Zealand.

COOL NEW SITES

Fuilers Northland launched their website last month providing travelers with useful information about the beautiful Bay of Islands and their extensive range of tours and cruises. The website also provides a trade area for travel industry partners. Travel agents, wholesalers, and tour operators can now access the on- line catalogue of Fullers' extensive photo library. Here they can select and order their choice of royalty free images for use in their own travel brochures and promotions at no charge. In addition, they can order free videos and brochure supplies.

Check out their site www.fullersnorthland.co.nz

Tourism Taranaki in the North Island announced a cool new site which provides links to the well known mountain Mt. Taranaki, the famous gardens, and Rhododendron Festival coming October. Activities, accommodations, events and holidays are all easily accessed at:

Lake Tekapo, at the heart of New Zealand's scenic South Island, also boasts a new website at:

www.tekapo.co.nz. Diane Ferguson, the managing director of the Alpine Inn there, says, "At the moment the weather is a bit chilly, but the days are beautifully sunny. The 'pup' and I enjoy morning walks around the lake shore where the whispering pines reach for the clouds. If you can't join us tomorrow, please visit our website."

NEW ZEALAND FISHING CALENDAR

September - First signs of spring with New Zealand at its greenest. September 21 is the first day of spring. North Island fishing is improving and fishing season opens in South Westland and Fiordland for sea-run trout.

Good trolling begins for trophy trout on North Island's Lake Taupo and Rotorua. Uncrowded.

October - Spring weather throughout New Zealand. Opening of fishing season in most lakes, streams and rivers. The last runs of fresh spawning fish in the Tongariro River. Excellent trolling on Lake Taupo and Lake Rotorua. Lake Tarawera's season opens for huge trophy rainbows. Fly fish, spin fish or troll. Uncrowded.

November - The start of summer weather. Some good dry fly hatches, particularly on the South Island waters. Excellent fly fishing and trolling on most North Island lakes. Flowers in bloom and beautiful. Uncrowded.

(The above from FISHING INTERNATIONAL, P.O. Box 2132, Santa Rosa CA 95405. 707-539-3366 or 800-950-4242.)

CADBURYS AND KUMERA - Eva Trapani

A dream come true was my recent visit to New Zealand's South Island, taking along my son Mike, his wife Pam, and my four granddaughters: Samantha 15, Bonnie 13, Annie 6, and Isabel almost 3. The month of July is full winter down under and we three adults had a few apprehensions about possible bad weather. We had visions of ice-slick roads, days lost being snowbound somewhere, days of constant cold rain-— but none of these things happened. We were fortunate, and I can't guarantee similar good weather to anyone reading this (perhaps it was the El Nmo effect working in our favor). There were a few days of occasional light rain at first, often at night, but that soon disappeared as we drove out of the deep south. Even at Bluff the weather was perfect (cool, but the skies were gorgeous). The next week or so, after we had left for down south, the North Island was deluged for days by heavy rains and flooding. So, certainly, good fortune was with us, as I knew it would be.

Upon arrival in Auckland we had a two-day layover in order to visit Richard and Betty Croft in Te Puru on the Coromandel Peninsula. Being with. them even for such a short visit was a great pleasure for all of us, continuing the deep friendship of many visits back and forth, down there and up here. The weather was fine there and the night skies clear and cold so that Samantha, the stargazer of our group, could begin to study the stars of the south. Later we bought a southern hemisphere star chart so she could familiarize herself with the southern constellations.

Karen Coombes of The Best of New Zealand (2817 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica CA 90403; Tel.310-998-5880 or 800-528-6129; Fax310-829-9221).

took care of the details of our trip, and I highly recommend her. She is soft-spoken, efficient, caring and patient. The only problems we had in the days before leaving were caused by the inadequacies of

U.S. Passport people. Our 6-year-old Annie's passport arrived just a few days before our departure date. That glitch frayed our nerves considerably.

Karen set us up on Air New Zealand with seven seats at the very rear of the cabin, and we enjoyed having our own space back there with extra room between the seats and the windows.

Our campervan was booked with Maui, and we found their service quite good. For our short layover from Auckland we had to use an older minivan which was a bit uncomfortable and with no seat belts other than three sets in the front seat. But we rattled around in it fairly well for the short time we had it. The gentleman driving the shuttle from the airport to Maui's headquarters had the typical Kiwi sense of humor. He commented that driving in New Zealand requires that one remember that "left is right and right is wrong."

The Maui 6-passenger campervan we picked up in Christchurch for the main part of our trip was just fine. It was an older model, but it had been fitted with seven seat belts which was what we needed. The customer service at Maui, Christchurch., was excellent. When we arrived back in California after our vacation, Annie discovered she had left some treasures in the silverware drawer of the van and she cried a lot. The treasures were a very inexpensive locket I had bought for her in Hokitika, a little ring her sister Bonnie had given her in Arrowtown, and a pretty shell she had found on a beach somewhere. Much to our amazement, a few days after we had been home a small package arrived with her treasures. I was greatly impressed with their kindness. I guess I'll never get accustomed to the caring spint and honesty of New Zealanders. I'm sure this gesture did much for a little girl's faith in people.

With the Crofts we drove the short distance to the small town of Ngatea, home of Wilderness Gems, which I had discovered on my 1995 trip. All of us enjoyed a couple of hours exploring and shopping for stones and gems. We had a picnic lunch complete with hot tea in the picnic area provided out back.

After a brief and pleasant stop in Thames, at Pak'n' Sav, one of my favorite supermarkets in New Zealand (I love Woolworth's, too), and a fun ride for all of us on a miniature railroad, we returned to our Te Puru quarters, and a great dinner of fish and chips from Te Purn Takeaways on the main road through towit With the bounteous package of fish and chips, we also enjoyed kumera fritters and pineapple fritters, both delicious.

If you don't know about kumera, it's a sort of delicately flavored sweet potato, grown originally by the Maoris. The plant needs special conditions and care, and to my knowledge, seems to be grown nowhere outside New Zealand. Be sure you try them, baked., steamed, in chips or fritters. All of us

loved them and in our campervan we had them, steamed, almost every other day, knowing we couldn't enjoy them at home. Annie, our dynamic 6-year-old, was especially fond of them. Wish I could steam or bake one or two for my dinner tonight!

We had a short and pleasant flight from Auckland to Christchurch on the South Island and were greeted by dear friends there also. My late husband John and I met Lew and Sybil Heaton at the Mount Cook Hermitage in 1982 and have been close friends ever since—sixteen years of great times together. We all feel privileged to be "in their family" along with their daughter, son-in-law, and two grandsons, now fine young men.

Mike drove our campervan to the Heaton driveway and parked it there as we had before, and part of the family slept out there, with three of us in the house. We had lovely meals while we were there.

While in Christchurch we enjoyed the Antarctic Centre at the airport, and the Air Force Museum at Wigram, out past the airport. We did a bit of shopping in Christchurch (we bought three umbrellas which we never had to use). Had a nice drive to Lyttelton Harbour, and it did rain on the way home, but we were cozy and dry in our campervan. Before the rain began we visited some lovely oceanside spots, and took a long walk out on New Brighton pier and watched a couple of surfers in the rough, icy waters below.

I couldn't be in Christchurch and not visit my beloved giraffes at Orana Park (I got to touch the neck of one again -- very dry, rough hide). We also squeezed in a visit to Willowbank and saw all the animals there. Everyone loved this place. The girls enjoyed feeding wallabies, goats, sheep, deer, cows, saw eels (who normally hibernate in winter), tried to feed a kea. saw two kiwi birds in a darkened enclosure poking their beaks in the ground for food. It was very enjoyable in spite of the mud from the light rain the day before.

As we drove south out of Christchurch we stopped at Ashburton for a fairly long visit at Ashford Craft Village (spinning wheels, woolens, beautiful woodcraft items, pottexy—and a great breakfast with lots of hot tea). Had great conversation with the woodcrafter and in fact, everyone we spoke to was helpful and friendly. A lovely, quiet place, open seven days a week.

There was lots to see on the east coast as we headed for Dunedin. We had to drive off the main road for a few kilometres to see the interesting and lonely memorial to Richard Pearse, an eccentric farmer who built and flew a powered aircraft at about the same time, or before, the Wright Brothers did.

Then we came to the Moeraki Boulders. Though I had seen them once before, I wanted the kids to see them. This family of mine is gung ho for any beach, anywhere (especially the deserted New Zealand ones.)

The boulders are round, perfectly smooth, gray boulders of varying sizes, mostly huge, with a cracked design, scattered haphazardly along the sand. Some are split and show their insides. The boulders, made of carbonate of lime, silica, alumina, and peroxide of iron, were formed on the ocean floor perhaps 60 million years ago. We waded through considerable mud to get down to the beach, but the boulders were impressive.

Then to Oamaru where we stayed at our first campground, Oamaru Gardens Holiday Park. It was a pleasant stop. Annie and I slept in one of the very basic little cabins (price about NZ$15). I felt quite rugged going to the restroom before dawn the next morning crunching over the frosty grass, with the incredible view of the Milky Way and the Magellenic Clouds only a few hundred light years farther out.

As we drove through the south, we were impressed with the many World War 1 memorials we saw - quite sad - and the striking number of names of the dead!

You've probably read about the beautiful and impressive limestone buildings in Oamaru. I enjoyed the lovely stonework fascia near the tops of the buildings as we strolled a few of the streets. We drove a short distance to see the yellow-eyed penguins on the grassy cliffs over the Pacific. Fven more rewarding later was visiting and viewing the little blue penguins as they came home in small groups after sundown. Small sets of bleachers are provided for spectators and enough lighting so we could watch the penguins make their way along the gravel roadway to the nests built for them.

Dunedin—well, it's a city, and the group didn't feel comfortable in cities, so we only stopped to see the famous ornate train station with the lovely stained glass work. Up the street we got a small takeaway lunch to eat in the van—and I must warn you: don't order milkshakes in New Zealand! These were called raspberry, and were just milk with a fruit flavoring added. They were terrible. Here and there later we saw signs for "thick" shakes, but didn't dare try them. We'll let you try them!

I think it was in Christchurch at a Countdown supermarket that the Cadbury chocolate binge began. These delightful candies are sold in boxes, chocolate eggs, small and huge bars of all sorts. Somebody in the group was bound to try them all! I especially enjoyed the big Caramello bars, and we all brought home with us whatever we fancied—some to share with others, some to eat ourselves. I'm still enjoying my refrigerated Caramello in small bits and pieces. I also brought home a couple boxes of Cadbury's powdered chocolate for hot drinks. Steaming cups of chocolate went down well on many crisp mornings and evenings in the campervan.

We didn't get to visit the Cadbury factory which is just a block or so from the Dunedin train station. I had checked before we left home and was disappointed to learn they no longer give tours. Mike walked over to see if they had a shop (they don't), and he said the big white building looked quite austere (probably constructed long ago of Oamaru stone)— with no hint on the outside of the warm, wonderful chocolates that were being created inside the walls.

On to the Catlins. There isn't much said or written about the Catlins. One New Zealander I connected with on the internet categorized the area as New Zealand's best kept secret. Jane King in The New Zealand Handbook (Moon Publications) writes: "The direct route between Dunedin and Invercargill is Hwy 1 via Gore—but if you have plenty of time and like to get off the tourist track, take the coastal route (Hwy 92) from Balclutha through the remote, beautiful Catlins region on your way to Invercargill (add two hours). Meander through the nine podocarp-hardwood forests that make up Catlins Forest Park, getting tempting glimpses of isolated sandy beaches and rugged coastal scenery; sidetracks to the coast are worthwhile . . . cliffs, grassy hills, a perfect golden-sand surf beach . . . "

To me the Catlins are so lovely and so peaceful and so devoid of human beings! What a great day and a half we had there. The drive to Nugget Point lighthouse was most dramatic. Here there was always the sea on the south side of the road. The greenish, foamy breakers were beautiful, stretching bleakly and endlessly toward Antarctica under overcast skies. Mike, Pam and the girls explored the lonely rocky oceanside at one point while I walked a bit on the road. Here and there tiocks of squabbling gulls circled overhead. I wondered why seagulls have such nasty natures.

I thought about a murder mystery or a romance novel taking place on the cliffs to the north of the road. "Algernon and Cecily, he in his Land Rover, she in her older model Rolls . . . " Would it turn out to be a mystery or a romance, or both? I'll never know because we soon piled into the van and drove on to several more isolated beaches and ocean views.

Later we stopped for provisions at a little store in Owaka. Mike spotted a small cemetery not far from the sea, and we wanted to stop. Mike, Pam and I found so many of the old gravestones fascinating, and they evoked curiosity about the people from the past in this isolated part of the world. Many of them had drowned—some in lakes, some in the ocean. Others apparently died of influenza toward the end of World War I, and many soldiers "gave their lives heroically" in the "Great War". A sea captain died in the China Seas back before the turn of the century. What a novel that could be. !

The Nugget Point lighthouse was a wonder—- on a point of land high over the cold, roiling sea. We walked a winding pathway alongside the cliffs with a biting rain beginning to soak us through and through, more and more as we neared the lighthouse. The sheer drop to the water as we walked made me a bit nervous and most of the way there was no guard rail. What an exhilarating experience this was. Cups of hot chocolate with cheese sandwiches and sliced apples were welcome when we returned to the van.

I must mention the entrancing seals playing in the deep tide pools far, far below the cliffs. At first we could barely make out what the small dark forms were as they moved about, but Samantha ran back to the van for the binoculars and then we could clearly see them. It was hard to tear ourselves away.

All through the Catlins we found beauty—with soft showers here and there Green, green pastures, gentle mountains, sheep so unused to road traffic that they ran when we passed by in our rather noisy van.

We stayed that night at a small campground at Curio Bay. There's a fascinating fossil forest there. It's not to be missed even in the rain and mud. This was at the edge of Gondwanaland millions of years ago. The area was covered by pyroclastic flows four times. We could see tree stumps with the rings still countable and crystals here and there within the rings. There were long tree trunks that looked as though the bark could still be broken off.

That was the last day of real rain, I believe, and we drove down to Bluff and found blue skies and brilliant sunshine, with just a few puffy clouds in the sky. It was Sunday so we couldn't visit the aluminium smelter, which would have been interesting—but we did stop at the paua house right on the main road through town, and Mike visited the Maritime Museum.

With our lunch I broke down and fmally, after sixteen years of visiting New Zealand, tried an L&P (lemon and Paeroa, bottled in the small town of Paeroa on the North Island). I liked it. I'm not much for soft drinks, but this was different: I'm going to ask our local market to try to stock L&P.

We enjoyed gazing out over the beautiful South Pacific Ocean with nothing between us and the Antarctic—the farthest south we had ever been on the earth!

Queenstown had meant so much to John and me during our visits there over the years since '82 that I felt butterflies in my stomach as we approached, driving mile after mile of lovely winding road lying between 50-mile long Lake Wakatipu and the rugged, appropriately named Remarkables (mountains). Both were beautiful beyond description, the lake sparkling in different shades of blue and green,the mountains mantled in deep snow.

Queenstown has acquired a lot of glamour and excitement in the nine years since I had been there—and still no place to park!

We stayed two nights at the very fine Arthur's Point Motor Camp. We enjoyed Arrowtown basking in warm sunshine, did a fair amount of shopping there, and enjoyed lunch in a small park on the main street. We stopped at the corner bakery and bought hot pies. Pam's and mine were vegetable, unique and delicious. We picked up a package of their homemade shortbread. The two older girls bought fish and chips from the takeaway next door, including kumera chips and breaded, deep-fried pineapple rings. Memorable lunch indeed.

Agoraphobic me—I could go anywhere in Arrowtown, criss-crossing the streets alone, wandering through stores. Thirteen-year-old Bonnie told me she'd love to live in Arrowtown. She could walk anywhere by herself. She felt very safe there.

For me the best day of the three weeks was the day we took the steamship the Eamslaw to the Walter Peak Station (farm) across Lake Wakatipu from Queenstown. Earlier that morning Mike had taken little Annie with him for a thrilling jet-boat ride. It was ten in the morning and very, very cold at the Shotover launching site. Our feet actually felt numb after being down by the river for a while. However, .the sun soon warmed us up to a comfortable level. When they returned more than half an hour later, Annie seemed to be frozen stiff and was uncharacteristically, quiet for a while.

The afternoon at Walter Peak farm was so pleasant (a wonderful place for kids as well as grownups—lots of animals and farm activities). During a "break", a gracious tea was served in the beautiful farm home. Most of the people present chose to sit in the patio area overlooking the private beach, the lake and the mountains.

Dusk was falling as we returned on the Earnslaw to Queenstown. We enjoyed the singing around the piano all the way back. To top off the day we went up on the skyline gondola to the observation deck and gazed out over Queenstown and the lake— quite an amazing sight by night or by day. It was still light enough to be able to see the snow-topped Remarkables as a back drop to the town and the lake.

The big event as we left Queenstown was Samantha's bungy jump from the Kawarau Bridge. I can well remember when John and I first saw that bridge out in the middle of nowhere, a relic from the last century, a quiet place to walk and dream. Now there's a big parking lot, there are tour buses, and as for some years now, there are adventurous people signing up for the jump—and there are screams as they jump off the bridge.

Mike got Sam all signed up and at 10:30am there was no waiting line. Our hearts were all pounding

as she walked, seemmgly full of confidence, out on the bridge. Fortunately the thrilling moment is recorded on four professional photos and on a short videotape—for which we paid a quite nominal amount.

With her ankles securely shackled, 15-year-old Sam waited for the countdown from five to zero, and without any hesitation, and keeping her eyes up as she was directed, she jumped off, her arms outstretched. It was a perfect takeoff. A big scream was torn from her and that was it. She gently bounced up and down a few times and then swung, head down, spinning slowly around, as she waited for the little rubber boat to pick her up. She told us she was completely disoriented at this point—and so happy that she had done the jump. This young lady is probably headed for space some day, and she considered this bungy jump to be a part of her preliminary preparation, one of her tests of courage.

We were all proud of her and I was almost hysterical with excitement. When I was young I believe I would have done the jump myself. I like to watch the video and feel her courage rubbing off on me.

We were beginning to feel the pressures of time, so had to bypass Wanaka. The weather was cool, sunny, and gorgeous as we drove the Haast Pass—past the lakes and rivers and lush rainforest, all surrounded by indescribably beautiful snow-covered mountains. The Haast Pass road is much "tamer" than it was 9 years ago.

We walked in to see Fox Glacier the next day, and then drove on to Hokitika, arriving at dusk just in time to walk through the lovely Glowworm Dell. The crowds of lit-up glowworms on the sides of banks looked to me like miniature cities at night, or like galaxies in the skies. They're worth seeing.

The next two days were days of lots of driving, with an overnight stay at Murchison. We all enjoyed the west coast, but often felt the loneliness of it. We enjoyed the general store in Murchison and the little museum next door.

These were lovely, sunny days, and we spent some time in Nelson. We stopped at some craft shops, but they were out in Richmond outside Nelson. To our disappointment, the tame eels at Motueka were hibernating and could not be visited. We drove the short distance from Richmond to Rabbit Island and enjoyed exploring the beach there. We saw two horse- drawn carts out on the beach, evidently training for racing. We saw evidence of lots of clams, found pretty shells—many still occupied, and much beautiful driftwood.

The next morning three of our group, Pam, Bonnie and Annie went horseback riding at the Stonehurst Farm Horse Trek, while the rest of us enjoyed the farm animals, including chickens and a duck,

a couple of friendly cats, and two or three dogs. It was only an hour ride, but they rode into a river, skirting the banks with water almost up to their feet. They rode through woods and pasture, and had the opportunity to watch a pretty fantail catching insects kicked up by the horses' feet.

Picton was fun as always, and because it was winter, the sandflies were missing from the marina area. Shopping is quite good in Picton. Watching the Aratika ferry depart for Wellington made me wish I were aboard.

On the drive to Kaikura the next day we left the highway to re-visit Ward Beach. I don't like giving away a secret, but this beach is special. It's really lonely, and the Pacific Ocean is wild there and dramatic, with a dangerous undertow. We all explored the rugged beach quite thoroughly, and picked up some wonderful stones and shells. Never have I seen. so many beautiful stones and rocks in one place. Of course we had to be very selective now that our trip home was coming up. The ocean there is so rough that many of the stones are naturally polished and feel like silk or satin.

Then we had another day in Christchurch, a few more hours with our friends, and then the sadness of more farewells. The partings from my friends and from New Zealand itself seem to get harder and harder, as though I'm leaving a part of myself and my soul there. But there is the certain knowledge that somehow I'll be there again.

NEW ZEALAND CYBERCAFES AND OTHER E-MAIL CONNECTIONS - Charles Eggen

For those interested in sending or receiving e- mail during their New Zealand travels, there is a way to do it without taking a computer with them. It uses a free web-based mail service. There are a number of them with Hot Mail and Yahoo Mail being the preferred. I will use Yahoo Mail as the example here. Go to: http://mail.yahoo.com

I will not duplicate the directions of how to set up an e-mail account there. They are fairly straight- forward. You can check your regular e-mail account from the Yahoo account (forwarding). When wanting to use the account, you would go to the Yahoo mail website from any web server of any computer anywhere (just don't forget your ID and password). The only charge would be whatever fees are imposed by the place you would use to do this What follows are some NZ sites that allow for this.

NZ CYBER CAFÉ ADDRESSES

The LiveWire LTD

1st floor, 239 Queen Street, Mid-City Cinema Complex 1007 Auckland

Phone: +64 9-356-0999

Fax: +64 9 356 507

$3/ 10 min. Hrs: M-F lOam-7:3Opm, Sat 10:30am-

7:30pm. Sun—inquire

E-mail: nel@bootsoff.co.nz

Although not a Cybercafe, there is a place in Christchurch to send and receive e-mail as well as general net connections and they will scan your photos for e-mail attachments at no additional cost.

Vadal Fone Shop

59 Cathedral Sq. (this is in the NW corner of the square)

Christchurch

Phone: 64-3-377-2381

Hours: M-F 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun lOam-5pm Cost $3 for 15 mm., $5/30 min.

Actually there are many places in New Zealand now that offer the ability to send and receive e-mail, averaging $5/30 min., unless they are self-serve machines, which cost about $ 12/30 min. I found two places that are free! The list is long and so I would rather respond to specific requests if there are any. Send them to me, Charles Eggen - cne@efn.org

I would strongly suggest that you do a test or two with this method before you do on the trip. Try it with a local friend. Yahoo will respond to problems and there is a FAQ at their site about this. Also, most of the NZ sites will gladly assist you, but practice before you leave. Hey—this is a lot cheaper than a phone call.

NEW ZEALAND BIRDS, BUSH &

GARDEN TOURS - March 1-17,1999

Sponsored by Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens in San Francisco this unique New Zealand tour features native forest and bush, birds, and outstanding private gardens. Accompanied by Allan Ridley and Helen McKenna who have led several hirding trips both domestic and international, and Jan Coyle, a native New Zealander, we will travel on both North and South Islands in addition to Stewart Island.

Highlights of the tour include Tiri Tiri Matangi Island where endangered birds roam free under the watchful eyes of the Department of Conservation, native bush in the Waitakere Ranges, the Miranda Sanctuaty, forest and birds near Rotorua, the Catlins, Stewart Island, Ulva Island and Fiordland. Selected private gardens will be visited on North and South Islands. A Maori cultural experience, glowworm caves at Te Anau, an overnight cruise on Milford Sound, farmstay, and an alpine ramble at Queenstown round out the itinerary.

For further information and a detailed brochure call Jan at (650) 595 2090. (KiwiPac Tours, 1919 Chula Vista Drive, Belmont, CA 94002).

KIWIPAC Tours is a small California based company. Owner Jan Coyle was born and grew up in New Zealand. After graduating with a degree in biology, she moved to the U.S. and for the past 6 years has been designing and escorting tours to her homeland. She hps led many garden, horticultural and walking tours in addition to organizing veteran reunions, and quilting trips as well as many other individual special interest tours. Jan brings a broad knowledge and love of New Zealand's people and countryside to all her tours and, with the help of family and friends on site, she is often able to add personal extras not found in most commercial tours. Jan has recently added Australian tows to her group itineraries and she arranges individual extensions and stopovers in the Pacific Islands. Her itineraries are carefully planned, combining the major scenic highlights with many opportunities to enjoy the unspoiled beauty of the countryside far from tourist crowds.

FOX GLACIER - WHICH ONE?

(From West of the Alps)

Not a lot of people know this, but—there are really two glaciers at Fox.

There's the big one, which seems more massive just about every time you look at it, and then there's the small one that's managed to remain hidden for 30 years or so.

During the 1960s, when the glacier retreated from the region of the present car park, it left behind a heap of rocks which most people would have taken for terminal moraine. It took a heavy rainstorm not so long ago to reveal that nicely insulated under those rocks was a rather solid mass of "dead" ice.

Since then the mini glacier has caused quite a stir among people who've recognised what it is. It's also melted a good deal, so the prospect of the advancing glacier making up the leeway (about 30 minutes' walk for the average person) isn't good.

Another notable development at Fox Glacier over last summer was the restoration of the washed out access road. An impressive new formation drops from the old one and snakes up the riverbed to end handy to a good vantage point for people who don't want to go the extra distance.

Despite ever changing conditions, Alpine Guides at Fox Glacier have found foot access to the ice "not bad".

Fly in — fly out helihikes to a central part of the glacier where there are lots of ice caves have also been particularly popular, and many have taken advantage of great snow conditions to do ski touring trips.

WHALERS REMEMBER PAST RICH

WITH SIGHT, SOUND AND SMELL

Nowadays most visitors to Picton's Perano Whaling Station will remember it as a quiet, desolate place. But for two former whalers the hustle and bustle of a major money-making industry will never be forgotten.

Tom Gullery was a 17-year-old freezing worker looking for work during the off season when he visited the Perano Whaling Station.

He spoke to Joe Perano who eventually offered him a job which would last 13 years. The year was 1933. Tom worked at the Tory Channel whaling station until 1946, then at a station on Great Barner Island from 1958 to 1964. He rose through the ranks to foreman.

Working for the Peranos meant living at the station from May 20 to the end of August. "It was very primitive and there were no facilities -- no showers or toilets."

When he was first offered the job, Tom asked where he would be living. Joe laughed and said anywhere he liked.

Tom said the Peranos were hard people and expected a lot from their workers. He said Joe was a typical Italian with a tendency to talk quickly.

Tom was lucky enough to be offered a place in one of the huts set up at Fishing Bay. He had a bed but it wasn't particularly comfortable. It was made from old manuka and wire netting. But it was better than some of the other workers could boast.

Tom said in later years he and a friend decided to build their own home in an old hut used to gnnd up whale bone but whale bone dust attracted plenty of mice which would wake him up at night running across his bed.

He decided to do something about it and brought a cat down with him the next year. The task was almost beyond the cat which would end up catching two mice at a time.

Workers had to be resourceful and it was Tom who built the first shower at the station. Unfortunately to get to the shower meant walking over a pile of coal, and in between various pieces of machinery. By the time he made his way back to his hut Tom was dirtier than when he started.

Working at the whaling station was a good job but it was dirty work. Blood and guts were everywhere.

Picton's Basil Jones agreed that working at the station was a messy job. He remembers crawling inside whales to retrieve their hearts, livers and other organs.

The pay was good though and eventually staff were contracted and paid 18 pounds for each whale.

While based at Fishing Bay Tom worked in the factory but once was trusted to drive a chaser boat when Gilbert Perano had to make a visit to Picton Tom was told to go nearly 10kms out into Cook Strait.

He and his companion Joe Perano Jr. came across a whale. Joe, who was the gunner. pulled the trigger of the gun but it just went "click", Tom said.

"It was a sitting shot but it misfired."

They tried again and Tom charged towards the whale to get another shot. The gun misfired again.

Then the boat began to have problems. It was dark before the two men were back at the station again and that was Tom's last time on a chaser boat at the Perano station.

In his tune at Great Barrier driving the chaser boats was his main job.

Workers used bombs to kill whales. These were more effective because the whales didn't sink outright and could be towed back to the station easily.

"We would rush up alongside the whale and stick one of those bombs in him," he said.

Towing the whale into the station was an effort in itself. A hole would be made in the whale's tail and a rope threaded through it. It was then attached to the tow boat and taken back in to be processed.

Whale oil was a prime commodity in various cosmetic products. Tom said each whale would have 10 to 12 tonnes of oil to process. A tonne of oil was taken from the bones alone.

Basil Jones, who started whaling at Perano in the 1960s after working at Great Barrier, recalls machines that would process a whole whale, leaving no waste.

He holds the record for the most whales processed in one night. He got the record while working at Great Barner where he processed seven whales in one night.

Workers used butcher's knives to process the whales—28cm knives would barely cut through the blubber.

Basil's time at Perano station staff quarters was a lot more comfortable than when Tom started work there. Most residents were married couples and lived in their own quarters. The single workers had bunk rooms which they had to share.

Mr. Grose said it was interesting to stand on the site and imagine the bay turned red with whale blood and filled with sharks attracted to the area.

He said many people remembered the stench from the station as they passed by on Wellington- Picton ferries.

Nowadays whaling is looked down upon as an industry as whale numbers decrease. But, Mr. Grose said, it was important the site be preserved as it was one of the last pioneering ventures in Marlborough.

MONTHLY NEW ZEALAND NEWSZINE

If you're on the internet you'll want to read the "independent newszine for the modem ecotraveler" published on the net by Evan Bloomfield of Queenstown. Below are a couple examples of what is included in this fun and informative newszine.

To subscribe email:

THErock@riverton.co.nz with SUBSCRIBE in the SUBJECT. Evan also has a website:

www.KiwiNewz.com

From the July issue: New Zealanders have gone to extraordinary lengths in recent years to put their towns on the map. Huge visual statements about communities and their people: This set of 10 stamps will be issued on 7 October 1998 and includes the Brown Trout of Gore, the Kiwifruit of Te Puke. Paeroa's L&P bottle (now starring in a classic TV ad), and our favourite — the world's largest Paua (abalone) in Riverton. In fact you can see a photo of the Riverton Paua in the July — September issue of the New Zealand Geographic. Anyone wanting to buy a First Day Cover or a Booklet send us an email and we will send you the details. Great as a present or for the stamp collection.

Intrepid travellers wanting to explore the Southern Scenic Route starting in Dunedin or Queenstown with the chance to visit Milford Sound, Stewart Island and the Catlins go no further than Bottom Bus. In a minimum of four days Bottom Bus will take you on a personal tour with that special touch. Free morning and afternoon smoko Wilderness with plenty of bush and beach walks and wildlife including the chance to see Hooker Sea Lions, Yellow Eyed Penguins and Hector Dolphins Send Ralph an email at mailto:bottom@deepsouth.co.nz

- tell him you heard about it in KiwiNewZ and you will get a free Footrot Flats book when you make a booking.

Travel Envoy — if you're Stateside and looking for a straight up package deal for NL you may want to contact Kathleen at Travel Envoy at Mailto:victory2@swbell.net or FreePhone 8-883-0610. Make sure you say you heard about it on KiwiNewZ !

AND THAT REMINDS ME, YOUR KIWIphile

FILE EDITOR, TO REMIND YOU TO

MENTION THE KIWIphile FILE WHEN YOU

MAKE INQUIRIES AND RESERVATIONS !!!

Also, I want to remind you of my e-mail address:

KiwiET1@aol.com You may contact me there, but please do not attach articles. I'm not sophisticated enough yet to go through that process. Just send them in the U.S. mail—and OFTEN, please. Thanks.

AIRLINE UPDATE

Air New Zealand signed an agreement with Young America, the New York Yacht Club's America's Cup Challenge, to become the team's preferred international airline carrier. The commercial agreement is based on a business relationship focused on increasing awareness of New Zealand as the venue for the five-month Challenger Selection Series and the America's Cup Match. In addition, Air New Zealand is creating a broad slate of packages for travel to the sailing events taking place from late 1999. For more information visit the NYYC/Young America Challenge website at www.youngamerica.org or the Air New Zealand web site at www.airnz.com or Ph 1 800 262 1234.

Ansett New Zealand invites you to check out their web site for a new section dedicated to the international visitor which presents information on all air passes within New Zealand. The Visit Australia, New Zealand air pass (VGDY1/199 - KGDY1/299) allows you to use the services of Ansett within New Zealand and Australia only. It does not allow Trans- Tasman service. If you are looking for an air pass that includes the Trans-Tasman sector, Ansett recommends the Quantas Boomerang Air Pass (KSPAC1/2). For more information, visit their web site at www.ansett.co.nz or Ph 1 800 366 1300 ext. 2 or 310 647 3430.

BITS AND PIECES

* pim Dodge will again be hosting a trip to New

Zealand/Australia in October 1999, probably in the latter part of the month. We'll keep you posted, or contact her: pim Dodge, P.O. Box 769, Frankfort, MI 49635. Ph: 616-352-6013. Email: pimd@benzie.com

* In February NZ opened the doors to Te Papa, its

spectacular new national monument. BLACK SHEEP TOURS is adding a FREE domestic flight from Rotorua to Wellington to visit the museum on their 3-week tour. Ph : 800-206- 8322 BLACK SHEEP Touring Co., 4222

Thackeray P1. NE, Seattle WA 98105.

E-mail: blksheep@aa.net

* Did you see the article by C.B.Kelly about his campervan trip around the North Island in the

August 1998 issue of International Travel News?

For a copy contact: International Travel News.

1901 Royal Oaks Dr., Ste 190, Sacramento CA

95815. Ph 800-486-4968.

KIWI TALES

- Travel in New Zealand by Judy Miller

This is a collection of short stories, travel tips and recommendations compiled by Judy Miller over 12 years of travel in New Zealand. The price is $8.00, postage paid. Please allow 2-3 weeks for delivery. If you order in October it may be slightly longer as she will be in New Zealand.

Many KIWlphile FILE readers will remember Judy's very helpful and fun articles published here. This little book is beautiful and a treasure to own.

Address: Judy Miller, 92772 Sovern Place, Junction City OR , 97448.