Volume XIII, No. 1
SEPTEMBER 2000
GOING HIGH TO HAUROKO
(The Press)

Many visitors are captured by the delights of Western Southland, where you can use jet boats and h&'licopters for a round-trip visit or look forward to the new Hump Ridge four-day tramping track, which will open next year.
The road sign warns of a winding shingle road for 22km, the only access to Lake Hauroko. Don't be put off. Hauroko, New Zealand's deepest lake, is also one of the prettiest.
It snuggles into a steep and bush-clad corner of Fiordland National Park, with glimpses of snow- covered mountains beyond.
The road is no alpine track. It is an easy 20-minute drive west from Cliften, which lies on the Southern Scenic Route half an hour south of Manapouri.
Lake Hauroko can be a quiet picnic spot, the start of a vigorous climb to Lookout Bluff, or the launching point of an exhilarating jet-boat ride.
Paul Roff, of Wairaurahiri Wilderness Jet, joins forces with South West Helicopters to provide an unforgettable two-hour experience. This involves a 41km jet-boat trip across the lake and down the Wairaurahiri River, which drains to the southern ocean.
There a Squirrel helicopter will pick you up for the return flight, on which you will land at the Percy Burn Viaduct and fly over the massive Hump Ridge.
The trip can be done in reverse order, or you can travel by jet boat the whole way.
Local people call the Wairaurahiri "the longest waterfall in the world". It twists and tumbles on a 27km boulder-strewn course from lake to sea, falling 160 metres through overhanging primeval bush before emerging on a desolate sandy beach.
The helicopter whisks you from the beach and high into the bush to a small clearing beside the historic Percy Burn Viaduct.
The longest surviving wooden viaduct in the world, at 125 metres, is 36 metres above the stream. It was built in 1923 to carry a bush tramway pulling logs out of the forest to a nearby sawmill.
The Australian hardwood structure has been restored, and a tramping hut built beside it. This is part of the new Hump Ridge Track, a four-day walk.
A return jet-boat ride costs $100 a person if all five seats are full. Otherwise, passengers must share the total cost of $500.
The Southern Scenic Route itself puts a smile on the South Island's face. Running in a big U from Te Anau, down to Tuatapere, Riverton, and Invercargill, across to the Catlins, and up to Balclutha and Dunedin, it seems to beam from the bottom of the map.

NEW ZEALAND'S FASTEST
AND CHEAPEST ISP

Dreams of providing New Zealand's fastest internet connection at a low price were behind the formation of Hyper Net, a new internet service provider which started up last month out of a Dunedin student flat. Hyper Net is the brainchild of a group of entrepreneurial Otago students who had become frustrated with the service that large providers gave.
Four student Hyper Net directors have so far succeeded in their goal of doing things better than the big ISPs.
"We've had a tremendous response to our product," said Jacob. "It's running really well, we haven't had a glitch at all, we haven't had one person leave us."
Unlimited Internet access through Hyper Net costs $24.95, and it's free to join. Other features offered are free email addresses and web pages, no toll charges and a quick, high bandwidth connection anytime. If you live in NZ, contact www.hyper.net.nz
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GREAT BARRIER ISLAND
(Life in the Cosmic-Burp) - Doug Sassaman

"What really makes the Barrier is late July, and a 50 knot sou'wester which has been blowing steadily for five days. The planes won't fly and the boat won't come. You're marooned. You start to realize quickly, that in this place, you are self-sufficient. You can get by without the rest of the world. You HAVE to." John Harrison, Great Barrier Island resident.
It's surprising that a four-hour ferry ride from downtown Auckland could see us to this remote island where generators thump in the night, and drinking water is collected from rooftops. What's even more. amazing is that so few come.
If you go to Great Barrier Island, off the east coast of New Zealand, the first thing to watch out for is Bob. He'll rob you blind, not with a gun but with a taxi. Perhaps it was a comment my wife made that drove his fares up. She saw something furry-looking on the side of the road and said, Oh, look—a Kiwi!" Kiwis are a rare sight indeed but they are also nocturnal, and it was 1 lam. It turned out to be a stump. Bob muttered some- thing under his breath that sounded like, bloody tourists. Or it could have been the volume of our luggage that raised his ire. Two port-a-cots, two strollers, three big pieces of luggage, one surfboard, and two backpacks. Three adults and two babies were no excuse for this armada of luggage. Whatever the reason, Bob felt fit to charge us enough to pay for his kid's braces when he aropped us off at our accommodation. Without a word, or a spine, I paid him.
After settling into our lodging, we strolled down to the beach and it was our own. Not another soul on the white sand cove perhaps a kilometer long. The clear blue water and dense green bush inland gives the place a tropical look, but it was still spring in the southern hemisphere and a chill offshore wind reminded us of our more southerly latitudes. Because we were stubborn and liked the idea of having a beach to ourselves, we laid out on the shore with towels wrapped about us, the occasional blast of wind whipped sand in the face. My one-year-old daughter stuffs a handful of sand into her mouth, then screams, further dispelling any delusions of paradise I might have had.
Great Barrier isn't a place for pina coladas with mini umbrellas, but what it lacks in amenities it makes up for in natural grandeur. A past of exploitation in which native Kauri trees were logged with great zeal— some over 2000 years old—Great Barrier is now New Zealand's poster child on the conservation front. Sixty-five percent of the island is maintained by the Department of Conservation. The earth's last significant population of Brown Teal ducks live on Barrier
—a thousand in number—and reintroduced species like the Kakariki (New Zealand Parrot) are flourishing there as their numbers dwindle on the mainland.
There are enough trails to beguile backpackers for weeks. We lightly tackle a few of the trails but with the babies loaded in the backpacks. Anything over two hours requires more mettle than I possess.
A hike in the bush is like a leap back in time. I steeled my nerves should we come across a rogue stegosaurus. I found myself looking up for signs of Tarzan swinging in the tangle of vines above. Ferns in profusion, and a forest canopy above that blotted out the sun and left us in a perpetual gloom. This is New Zealand; the same coat the mainland once wore, is now preserved here. We stopped and observed a rare wood pigeon, about the size of a football, above us. Even the tots fell silent as we took in the myriad of birdcalis that echoed through the jungle.
We hiked to natural hot springs, up windy canyons, and down into dense gorges. My daughter in the backpack held tufts of my hair like the reins of a horse. I'm not sure if her tugs were random or an attempt to steer me.
The civilized part of Great Barrier is almost as diverse as the wild half. In the tiny town of Claris, amid generator diesel fumes, we found the Claris Texas Café run, oddly enough, by two expatriate Brits. They whipped up a pile of eggs and bacon for us and told us of a life less cluttered.
If Great Barrier has a pulse it could probably be found in the Currach Irish Pub in the town of Tryphena. Conversation around the bar centered on the Rugby World Cup. I had little to offer in that vein so I ordered some beers and tuned into how the referees were plotting against Ireland.
We also local flavor on the roads. While I was negotiating a treacherous dirt mountain road in our rental car, a vehicle with more rust than actual metal appeared from behind and passed us at mach ten. I swerved. My passengers screamed. And the local hoon put his hand out the window and showed us a different type of bird from what we saw in the jungle.
Fortunately for us, the sou'wester didn't come up too strongly for the boat ride home, just a two-meter swell to negotiate, and a few less seaworthy folk hanging over the side.
Doug Sassaman is a freelance writer and self-described humorist (who some think should be self-committed). He writes a twice- monthly e-mail column called "Life in the Cosmic-Burp" Global humor on a galactic scale http://CosmicBurp.com You can email Doug at mailto: Doug-Sassaman@CosmicBurp.com
To subscribe to the Burp, send a blank e-mail to MAILTO:CosmicBurp-Subscribe@listbot.com)
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IT'S A GO! (pim Dodge)

It's a go for Australia and New Zealand for October of 2001. 1 have NO definite dates yet, but this is the GREATEST time of the year to travel Down Under, or as the Kiwis and the Aussies call it, "Up Over."
The winter is over with, spring has sprung in October and the flowers, shrubs and other greenery are at their very best.
Heard this month from the couple who head up the Farm Stay programs on the South Island of New Zealand. Last year three of us spent the night with them—having a very special time getting to know them—and hopefully will be with them again next fall!
(Contact pim Dodge, Travel Host, Writer and Speaker, P.O. Box 769, Frankfort, MI 49635. 231-352-6013. pimd@benzie.com)

AUTUMN TRIP Noeline McCaughan (continued from June KIWIphile FILE)

We moved north to Hokitika and civilisation, the bush became more sparse, and farming became more noticeable, the sky cleared, the mountains in the background were covered with a substantial fall of snow, and it became obvious that winter was beginning its march upon the land. The days were warm, however. Even in the rain it was warm, toadstool weather. We were enjoying ourselves. We just walked along together, holding hands in the downpours, grinning at each other. Easter caught up with us and Hokitika was full of tourists buying greenstone, gold and glass. Plus anything else that the entrepreneurs could flog off to them. I think the Hokitikians had all gone to ground for the weekend.
The place was with wasps. There least one hovering around me wherever I was, and the campground was cursed with the little horrors. The camp was much improved on our last visit there. The facilities all upgraded, clean and pleasant. From our site we had a view of the Southern Alps running into the distance where Mounts Cook and Tasman shouldered up into the blue.
There were lots of visitors everywhere with campervans from the minute to the massive very much in evidence. These vans were a feature of our travels. They tended to pull into camp quite late in the day and leave very early in the morning. One got the impression that they were on some frenetic voyage that compelled them to travel as far as possible each day and see as much of the scenery as possible on the way.
We often saw them pull up at some spot where we were idling, and leap out, look around, take a couple of photos or point the video camera up and down the road, leap back into the vehicle and disappear at a rate of knots. I feel so sorry that many overseas visitors don't take longer on their trips here. It costs them so much to get here and then they only spend ten days or a fortnight trying to see everything.
Greymouth was our base for several days whilst we explored the hinterland. I was surprised to see that a lot of land around Taylorville and even Blackball has been chopped up into 2.5 hectare (10 acre) lifestyle blocks. We both agreed you'd have to be young and fit to do anything with them as ten acres of pig fern would be rather daunting. There are some blocks Kumara, too. years ago land was covered by virgin forest No; that the saw-millers have moved through, clear felling the lot, taken their profit and gone, it is being sold off to the Yuppies.
Tourism is having a visible effect on Grey- mouth and, as it is the central town on the coast, it is beginning to boom. It does however have a problem in that its land area is limited—hemmed in by hills and the Grey River. This means that anyone wanting to build or site a business in the place has to look further away from the town centre. There is a great deal of ribbon development along the highwcy to the south, and it is obvious that there is a real need for a planned extension to the town in the immediate future if there is not to be a totally chaotic situation. Also I see that a number of businesses which have established branches on the coast have opted for Hokitika because of this shortage of land.
The backdrop of bush clad hills is very attractive and with the new waterfront protection work in place, the confidence of business people in the town is evident. We noted that houses nearer the waterfront were in the main extremely old and quite a few in a poor state of preservation. Back toward the hills there was a better class of home. Because of the depressed state of the West Coast economy for so many years, there are few modern homes evident, although there is at the moment a mini building boom going on. The other thing we noticed was the predominance of wooden homes. There were a great many attractive bungalow-style houses which had been built during the heyday of the coal and timber trade in the 1920's-30's.
The shops in Greymouth have dolled themselves up a lot. We ambled about and also took a walk along the floodwall by the river. There are no railway lines down there now and the work has been carried out well.
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There was a footpath and grass strip along the length of it with seats and sculptures here and there.
We drove up the coast highway to Westport to visit a relative. I love the wild scenery although I still get scared witless on some of the high spots in spite of the road being so much better than it was once. The road skirts the coast for sixty miles between the two towns. On one side is the sea and on the other a craggy, forest-clad mountain range. In places it winds around beetling cliffs 1,000 feet high. In other areas it is practically at sea level, and there are a myriad beautiful bays, each with its great rocky headlands. As there is a minimal population, the beaches are practically deserted except for the odd fur seal taking a snooze out of reach of the breakers rolling in from the Tasman Sea.
There is a small settlement named Punakaiki along the coast It has a good camping ground arid is an interesting place to be based for exploration. The geology is quite fascinating, with limestone cliffs and inland a karst landscape covered with forests. There are caves where rivers disappear and potholes where everything disappears! At Punakaiki there are blow-holes on the cliffs adjacent to the village, and if you are ever looking at publicity material of this part of the country, you will be sure to see the pancake rocks and blowholes touted as one of the things you should see.
We deviated across Addisons Flat to Cape Foulwind and had lunch beside the beach at Tauranga Bay not far from the seal colony. It has changed a lot since we used to take the kids there 30 years ago. The roads are sealed for one thing. By the time we got to my brother's place, the weather had closed in with a thick enveloping rain blotting out everything. So we mainly sat inside and gossiped for two days, apart from going for a drive around to the supermarket one day. The weather forecast wasn't offering any improvement for the rest of the week, so we opted to leave for home a couple of days early.
(Reprinted with the author's permission. All rights reserved.)

FISH ARE FAST LEARNERS (From scoop.co.nz)

New Zealand's brown trout are becoming smarter and more difficult to catch, say researchers.
John Hayes and Roger Young at the Cawthron Institute are looking at the effects of increasing numbers of anglers and how this affects the sustainability of our brown trout river fisheries.
"Anglers release most of the fish they catch in backcountry rivers. These fish often hide for several days and are not available to other anglers. They also appear to learn and become choosier over the artificial flies they will take," say the researchers.
"In really remote rivers, where trout are naïve, just a few anglers can catch a large proportion of the trout population. This could threaten the viability of trout stocks if catch-and-release is not practiced. The wariness of trout in more heavily fished rivers probably protects them to some extent.
"For expert anglers, a decrease in catchability of trout may increase the challenge and sense of achievement when one finally succeeds. However, a newcomer or less-skilful angler may give up the sport if they never catch a fish."
The research is jointly funded by the Foundation for Research Science and Technology and Fish & Game New Zealand. The results will be used to help Fish & Game NZ, Department of Conservation, and the guided tourism industry with the management of trout fisheries
"More and more overseas anglers are coming here each year while New Zealanders are increasingly lured to the backcountry in search of large trout swimming in crystal-clear water," say the researchers.
"Anglers, guides and fisheries managers are concerned about the increasing number of anglers visiting these rivers but everyone has a slightly different view on the effects this is having on the fishery."
"Social surveys of anglers have shown the likelihood of meeting another angler on some rivers is high enough to make them go elsewhere."
The researchers believe their work will help to ensure a high-quality backcountry fishing experience is available to future generations of kiwi anglers and tourists.

HAUNTED CASTLES

Did you know that room 305 of the Chateau on the slower slopes of Mt. Ruapehu on New Zealand's North Island is haunted? Here, in the early 1940s while the building was used as a psychiatric hospital, "Charlie" hung himself from the plumbing. Legend has it that the ghost of Charlie still haunts room 305 and, if you believe the night porters, other rooms of the grand Chateau.
And on the South Island Larnach Castle is still haunted by the infamous tycoon William Larnach, whose grand and spooky castle still stands on its Dunedin hilltop almost a century after his mysterious suicide.


I HOPE TO RECEIVE YOUR LETTER OR STORY FOR NEXT ISSUE! (By early November)
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KIRRA TOURS BROCHURES - Suzi Beacham

On behalf of Kirra Tours of New Zealand, World Wide Tours & Travel now has available their colorful 2000-2001 brochure of their 3 to 18 day deluxe motor coach tours offering a multitude of itineraries and options to fit your needs.
All prices in the Kirra Tours brochure are in New Zealand dollars. What this means for you is a tremendous savings! No "Middle Man" mark ups! The tours that are the most popular are the 16 Day Panorama, the 15 Day Wonderland, the 15 Day Trains & Other Special Activities and the 14 Day Vista. Whichever tour you should decide upon, know that the quality and service of the tours that Kirra offers are a fantastic bargain.
Australia or one of the South Pacific islands are also popular extensions for our New Zealand guests. As a "Certified Aussie Specialist", and with my many contacts throughout the South Pacific, World Wide Tours & Travel can customize your Dream Vacation.
World Wide Tours & Travel also has great rates on air fares, with savings of 5-10% off published airline rates with many international carriers. Please give World Wide Tours a call and ask for the new Kirra Tours brochure.
(WORLD WIDE TOURS & TRAVEL, 393 W. State St., Ste B, Eagle, Idaho 83616. Toll free (888) 697-0911. Fax (208) 938-0913. E-mail wwtourtrvl@aol.com)

WAIPARA VINO - (from NEXT)

Just a 45-minute drive north of Christchurch is the Waipara Valley. It's not exactly a new region, as grapes have been grown here for more than 10 years, but the quantities have been tiny, and mostly consumed in nearby Christchurch. However, a surge of planting over the last three years has more than doubled the size of the region, and the number of wineries has risen from 9 to 13.
A trip to Waipara should be planned so that you not only have time to sample the wines, but can also enjoy a leisurely lunch or dinner at one of the vineyard restaurants.
Canterbury House is open for lunch every day with dinner on Friday and Saturday. My pick: their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.
Pegasus Bay also offers daily lunches and boasts a range of excellent wines. My picks are the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Waipara Springs has a pleasant outdoor restaurant and wine bar; for a great lunch wine try a bottle of their Sauvignon Blanc.
Glenmark is Waipara's oldest winery where, apart from enjoying food and drink, you can visit the historic Weka plains railway that passes through the vineyard. Worth sampling: the Glenmark Riesling.
Spend a night at the Mountford Vineyard, a fabulous homestay where great wine, food and conversation are practically guaranteed.
Waipara's two newest wineries, Fiddlers Green and Muddy Water, both offer excellent Riesling.
Two of the best Waipara wines are from the long-established wineries of Daniel Schuster and Mark Rattray. Floating Mountain Chardonnay and Daniel Schuster Chardonnay, from the '98 vintage, offer great drinking.

MEMORIES - WORLD WAR II - Bob Hillier

In the early fall of 1943 as a member of the United States Navy, I was stationed in Auckland, New Zealand, for about 6 months prior to shipping out to the South Pacific islands. I loved the country and everything about it. Had some lively and enlightening discussions in a particular pub on Queen Street. I couldn't believe that NZedders had filet mignon and eggs for breakfast, and the dairy products were the best I ever had.
The people themselves were very friendly and I made some good friends. I remember particularly an Airman, name Ian Ogilvie, who later transfer red to a base in Christchurch. After about 7 months we transferred to Espiritu Santos in the New Hebrides. They used to assign a weatherman to each PBY (flying boats) on their submarine searches in order to observe the weather conditions to be plotted on the weather maps as an aid in forecasting weather for the pilots.
I was at Santos for about a year, then returned to Auckland for a short while. While there, I inquired of a N.Z. airman the whereabouts of Ian Ogilvie. He contacted Ian in Christchurch and told him this Yank sailor (whose name he had forgotten) had been asking for him. Ian said to him, "Does he talk like a gangster?" His friend said "Yes!" Whereupon Ian said, "Oh— that's Bob Hillier from New Jersey! !"
Initially we worked out of an office building on a side street off Queen Street, but later transferred to an old school building where we shared offices with the Royal New Zealand Air Force. Our two groups got along famously and I really enjoyed my time with the WRENS.
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Located on the roof of the high school was a shed which we both used to send balloons with a radio sound device into the atmosphere for returning signals to a recording device indicating weather information at various altitudes for use in forecasting weather conditions for the Allied Airmen in the area.
In the States we used helium (which is an inert gas) to inflate the balloons and attached small battened lights for nighttime launches. The Enzedders used hydrogen (which is inflammable) and they used Jack-0-Lanterns with a lighted candle inside. One night one of the U.S. Navy weathermen was assigned to the nighttime balloon launch and he forgot he was using— not helium but hydrogen—and he was a little careless with the matches, and those of us below heard a boom. We rushed up to the roof to find our shipmate none the worse for wear with singed eyebrows! That mistake never recurred!
I loved Auckland for many reasons, not the least of which were the people. They made us Yanks feel right at home, and we shared many common interests, such as sports, music (NZ girls thought all Americans could sing—no doubt because of our movie musicals), and the movies. The food was fantastic—the steaks were other-worldly!
In my six years in the Navy I spent time in Puerto Rico, Cuba, Key West, Florida, Seattle, and the Hawaiian Islands—but in all honesty, I enjoyed my time in Auckland, NZ, the most. I consider myself a fortunate guy to have been in such a wonderful place as New Zealand at the age of 21. I can say what a great time it was for I wasn't hurt or killed in the war. Sadly my brother Roland was not so fortunate, for at the age of 29, serving as a bombardier on a B-I 7, he was killed when his plane crashed.
On December 3, 1943 I was told that the chaplain wanted to see me. In his office he gently broke the news that my brother had been killed. The chaplain asked if there was anything he could do for me, and I said I'd like a 3-day pass, which he arranged.
After wiring my Dad back in New Jersey, I went to the Auckland train station and asked the stationmaster to recommend a quiet town where I might go to collect my thoughts. He said the town of Hamilton sounded like the place I was looking for. He was right, for when I got off the train and began walking, I found the town to be quiet and attractive.
I was quite angry with God at this point, and the last place I wanted to be was in church listening to some bromides offered by a clergyman. As I walked along the streets of Hamilton, I came upon a park with a path leading down to a large pond. Looking across the pond, I could see a man and his dog.
The man would toss a stick into the water and his dog would go into the water and swim out to the stick and bring it back to the man. As I got a little closer to the waters' edge, I could see that the dog was an Irish Setter and the man was wearing a clerical collar! Here, I did not want to go into a church but I found myself in the greater church in the great outdoors. The peace I had come to Hamilton for I found at that moment—which is one more reason for me to love New Zealand.
Thanks for the opportunity to bring back some bittersweet memories of my days in New Zealand.

NEW DIRECTIONS - Stephen J. Mangum

Team New Zealand's dominating performance in defending the America's Cup to bring great joy and unity to the nation. After blitzing the field to capture the trophy in San Diego in 1995, the Kiwis retained possession with a brilliant defense in Auckland in 2000. An enormous share of the population visited the various sites in Auckland related to the competition.
The cheering and parades had no sooner died down when team members began defecting to other syndicates which could offer them significantly more money. The first to leave were skipper Russell Coutts, tactician Brad Butterworth, and veteran designer Laurie Davidson. Others shortly followed. Although it shocked many, this is the way of the yachting world. Ironically, Team New Zealand's new chief designer is Clay Oliver, an American.
The new team leader will be Tom Schackenburg who is highly respected in the sailing community world-wide. Dean Barker is the new skipper. The former great team leader Sir Peter Blake has resigned to take a position sailing with the Cousteau Society.
For those who are excessively concerned about multiple challenges in the next defense by billien dollar syndicates, not to worry. The skill and experience of the Kiwis is unmatched. Many of the "experts" felt the Kiwis would be overmatched by Italy's mighty Prada. The next challenge is apparently being set for 2002-3, in New Zealand waters.
The Super 12 Tournament concluded another great rugby season with a fifth consecutive championship won by a New Zealand team. After a very competitive season with as many as eight teams having a chance for the semifinals, the final four were Otago Highlanders at Canterbury Crusaders and Golden Lions (Johannesburg SA) vs ACT Brumbies. The Crusaders prevailed in their semi and faced off as underdog in the title game vs the Brumbies in rainy, blustery conditions
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before 27,000 at Canberra. The Crusaders won in an upset 20-19. Andrew Mehrtens again was the difference, kicking a 42-meter penalty goal with four minutes remaining. Key roles were also played by captain Todd Blackadder and young #8, Ron Cribb. It was the third consecutive championship for Canterbury, following Auckland's two titles.
New Zealand has won the first World Rugby Sevens Series, featuring ten matches at various venues around the world. Seven players a side isn't real rugby. It's sort of like three on three basketball. Sevens is quick and exciting and has developed a big following. Fiji was a close second to NZ followed by Australia, Samoa, and South Africa.
The Black Ferns, New Zealand's great women's rugby team will play in the Canada Cup to be held in Winnepeg, Manitoba from September 22-30. The Black Ferns open vs Canada on Saturday, September 23d, face the U.S. on Wed., Sept. 27, and conclude vs England on Sat., Sept. 30. The four teams will play a round robin championship format. The Black Ferns remain unbeaten since 1991.
The challenge facing the All-Blacks this year was huge. Admirers around the world were wondering if they had lost their previously unquestioned drive and mystique following the implosion at the 99 World Cup and the dismal 98 season. So far, with a new Coach Wayne Smith, new captain Todd Blackadder, and a re-vamped lineup they are meeting the challenge with a 5-0 record.
New Zealand opened by trampling Tonga 102- 0 on June 16 at North Harbor. The AB's then defeated touring Scotland 69-10 at Carisbrook Park, Dunedin, and 48-14 at Eden Park, Auckland. Scotland also lost to the NZ Maoris 18-15 in a hard-fought match at New Plymouth and split the remaining matches with various provincial teams. New Zealand's Maori team is undefeated since 1994, including wins over: many top national teams.
The All-Blacks anu Australia's Wallabies drew another world-record rugby crowd of 109,874 to the Tri-Nations/Bledisloe Cup mateh at Sydney's Olympic Stadium on July 15. The Aussies had a ten game win streak on the line. It turned out to be an absolutely incredible test match with both squads playing exceptionally well. New Zealand exploded from the opening whistle with three tries by Tana Umaga, Pita Alatini, and Christian Cullen in the first 5 minutes. All were converted by Mehrtens who soon added a penalty kick. After eight minutes NZ led 24-0. The Aussies launched a furious comeback and the game was tied 24- 24 at halftime. The titanic struggle continued in the second half as Stirling
Mortlock led the Australian charge. The Wallabies took the lead late and led at fulltime 35-34. New Zealand had a last chance in injury overtime and the AB's freed Jonah Lomu who burst through for another of his historic tries. Final score: New Zealand 39 Australia 35.
Superlatives abounded but perhaps Australia's highly respected and modest captain John Eales said it best, "I doubt if there's ever been a better or more remarkable game".
The following week New Zealand defeated South Africa 25-12 at Jade Park, Christchurch. Danger man Christian Cullen led the way with two tries and a great defensive stop to save a try.
Later this year Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa will be touring Europe along with Samoa and Argentina. The test matches appear to vs France on Nov. 11 at Paris, Australia vs France on Nov. 4 at Paris, and vs England Nov. 18 at Twickenham along with England vs South Africa on Dec. 2 at Twickenham. South Africa also plays Wales on Nov. 25 at Cardiff, Wales also matches up with Samoa on Nov. 11 at Cardiff. New Zealand concludes the season as the All-Blacks face Italy on Nov. 25 in Rome.
The NZ Rugby Football Union dispenses a plethora of information at their website of www.nzrugby.co.nz. For the Aussie pespective, their RFU site is www.rugby.com.au.
With the Olympics drawing near, New Zealand's best hopes, understandably, appear to be in water-related events. Kiwis have good chances to medal in sailing, rowing, and boardsailing (windsurfing) events and possibly also in the triathalon. One guy who won't be sailing for NZ as previously planned is Russell Coutts after the public outcry over his leaving TeamNZ.
Until next time, play on!

SPRING DOWN UNDER, Pacific Pathways

Unlike most garden tour companies that offer trips to gardens throughout the world, we specialize in tours to New Zealand and Australia ONLY. We personally know our territory inside out, the extra special private gardens in the countryside, the friendly and knowledgeable gardeners who tend them, places to walk and view the wildlife far from tourist crowds, and we are able to add those personal touches impossible to find in commercial tours. I invite you to join us for one of our group tours or, allow us to design that special itinerary just for you. I look forward to hearing from you. .. (Jan Coyle)
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Tour of Gardens and Native Flora in NZ Oct. 31 to Nov. 17, 2000
Our tour commences in Auckland with an afternoon in the nearby Waitakere Ranges to observe the typical North Island forest and to see some of the giant kauris which in pre-European days were the dominant feature of this forest. Also visit Westridge, a private garden nestled among the nikau palms and tree ferns of the bush.
In Rotorua enjoy a special experience as you join a Maori family for a genuine hangi feast and concert, visit one of the thermal areas and tour Tikitere Gardens. In New Plymouth visit the famous Pukeiti Rhododendron Trust Gardens and explore the unique goblin forest on the slopes of Mount Taranaki. Enjoy a farmstay en route.to Wellington, then fly to the Garden City of Christchurch. Enjoy a trip on the award winning Tranz Alpine Express train to Arthur's Pass in the Southern Alps to walk through the alpine vegetation and enjoy spectacular mountain scenery.
In Dunedin, New Zealand's most southern city, visit the exceptional Botanical Gardens, travel out to the ocean to see the only mainland breeding colony of royal albatross in the world, as well as the rare yellow eyed penguins. Cruise overnight on majestic Milford Sound after a day exploring the forests and meadows of Fiordland, then end the tour with two nights in the alpine village of Queenstown.
Subantarctic Cruise Nov. 17-25, 2000
Following your Tour of Gardens and Native Plants we suggest you travel south to Invercargill to join a cruise to the remote Subantarctic Islands south of New Zealand. Ports of call include Campbell Island, Enderby Island in the Aucklands, and the Snares Islands which may be closely observed from zodiacs but where no landings are permitted. In 1998 this area was designated a World Heritage Site and access is limited to 550 persons per year. Besides abundant wildlife, birds and marine mammals, and relics of early human history, these islands support flora including plants which are also found on the New Zealand mainland, and many more. Naturalists familiar with the area will accompany the group.
(Many more tours are available. Please contact Pacific Pathways, 1919 Chula Vista Dr., Belmont, CA 94002. Ph. 650-595-2090. Fax

HELP YOUR FELLOW KIWIPHILES!
Some of you must have been in NZ during the last year. Please send along your notes, your memories, your suggestions to help others in their planning. THANKS.
WELCOME TO THE CATLINS

First inhabited by the Maori people in the period 900-1700 AD, the Catlins is an area with a rich history. Captain James Cook sighted the area in 1770, but it was not until the period 1810-1830 that whalers and sealers arrived in the Catlins. The Catlins takes its name from Edward Cattlin, a ship's captain who made a land claim in the district in 1840. The first settlement of land by Europeans took place in the mid 1850's. Settlers arrived primarily to mill trees, the first mill being in operation around 1865. Nine timber mills were operating near the Catlins and Owaka Rivers by the 1880's. In 1877, 107 ships sailed from the Catlins area loaded with timber bound for house building in Dunedin and Christchurch. During the 1870's and 1880's many settlers took up land for forming. The farms were only 20-80 hectares and bought with state assistance in the early 1900's. Farms became larger and freehold. Since the end of the sawmilling era, the Cat- fins district has relied on farming as its mainstay.
Here are a few details of what you can see in the area:
• A feature of the Catlins, there are many examples of picturesque pioneer cottages and houses still to be seen along the scenic route at Ratanui and in the Owaka and Glenomaru valleys.
• Honey factory. Native forest honey has been a speciality of the Catlins from the early days of Eur- opean settlement.
• The main industry in the Catlins from 1870 to 1970 was sawmilling. The giant podocarp trees (rimu, totara, matai, kahikatea and miro) were sawn up and shipped or railed out to provide building materials for the cities of Dunedin and Invercargill.
• Abandoned machinery from the days of the timber milling is still to be seen in parts of the Catlins.
• The "Surat". ThiF famous shipwreck gave its name to one of the beaches in the Catlins. Fortunately all the crew and passengers were saved; many were immigrants for whom this was a rude first experience of New Zealand!
• Whaling boat. In the 1830's and 40's there was a feverish and destructive era of whaling on the Cat- lins coast. Within 10 years, the Right whales were eliminated by shore and ship-based whalers. Some of these whalers married local Maori and their descendants live in the area today. Captain Cattlin was a whaler and trader.
• The Catlins railway line was the main transport link in the area for the first half of the 19th century. Many interesting tales can be told of the line and the people who used it.
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• The Catlins River branch railway, constructed from
Balclutha to Tahakope between 1879 and 1914, opened up the forested "frontier" for timber milling and farming. The railway closed in 1971, but its former path is to be seen in many places, as are some of the original railway stations, such as those at Maclennan and Tahakopa.

SOUTHERN CROSS
MILLENIUM TOUCHSTONES

Four New Zealand touchstones are on permanent exhibition at Te Papa. The stones are petrified kauri, basalt, pounamu or greenstone, and bluff granite or norite.
Te Papa (our place) is centrally located on Cable Street, on the Wellington waterfront, within easy walking distance of the central business and retail district. Visit Te Papa on line at www.tepapa.govt.nz for news, events and information.
The placing of the Southern Cross Millennium Touchstones took place at Te Papa on 1st January 2000. Television New Zealand and leaders from each of the four regions agreed to ask Te Papa to receive the stones "on behalf of the nation": Those in attendance were: representatives of the 4 regions, as were Te Papa's staff and leadership. Also present were Ngati Poneke Cultural group, Deborah Wai Kapohe (who sang "Tarakihi") and the Deidre Tarrant dancers who all performed during the ceremony along with Richard Nunns.
The stones were presented by: Sir Tipene O'Regan who spoke on behalf of the peoples of Westland and Southland, Mr. Kira Karena spoke on behalf of the Far North, while Mr. Joe Tapara and Mr. Pat Smith (Mayor. Chathams) spoke on behalf of the Chathams.
The Touchstones were touched by more than 300,000 people before they reached Te Papa.

KIWI BOOT POLISH - From New Zealand! New Zealand! In Praise of Kiwiana

New Zealanders are undoubtedly the only nation group whose colloquial identity has been consolidated by a brand of shoe polish. In the early years of European settlement a variety of symbols— predominantly the moa, silver fern, Southern Cross and kiwi—were used to represent the new nation and even by the early 1900s there still wasn't a clear consensus.
The silver fern and Southern Cross enjoyed official recognition but the kiwi enjoyed popular appeal, a popularity that was soon to be enhanced by the success of an Australian shoe polish company.
When in 1906 William Ramsay developed a new shoe polish, he named it "Kiwi" in honour of his wife's country of birth. The kiwi had the additional benefit of being an attractive and conveniently rounded image suited to a polish tin and, as well, the name is one that is easily read and pronounced in most languages. In 1914 the advent of the First World War saw a huge demand for polish for the millions of men under arms—leather booted and belted—and for horses' tack. Ramsay's polish, which had developed a reputation for a quality, deep, long-lasting shine, was the subject of huge orders from both British and US forces.
The transference of "Kiwi" from its shoe polish association to First World War New Zealand soldiers was a simple matter. It was a connection further reinforced by the continuing success of Kiwi polish in postwar markets.
Following the Second World War "Kiwi" came to be synonymous with New Zealanders in general, not just those under arms. (And the shoe polish was to be found just about everywhere troops ventured. The American correspondent Walter Graeber wrote for TIME from the Tobruk trenches in 1942 that "old tins of British-made Kiwi polish lay side by side with empty bottles of Chianti".)
Oddly enough the kiwi has never received official recognition or legal protection as the emblem of New Zealand.
The kiwi bird itself is of course one of the wonders of this country's fauna. New Zealand's long geographical isolation, which occurred before the arrival of browsing and predatory mammals in this part of the Gondwanaland super-continent, resulted in a unique environment. Among its special features was the evolution of a number of flightless and ground-dwelling bird species that adapted themselves to ecological niches that would elsewhere on Earth have been filled by mammals.
Best known of the ground-dwelling avifauna are the kiwis, survivors of an offshoot of an evolutionary line that included the now extinct moa. Flightless for thousands of years, the kiwi has only remnant wings hidden under a shaggy, hair-like plumage. Other unusual characteristics include a long bill that has the nostrils at the tip rather than at the base, as in the case of all other birds. In short, then, a unique animal.
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HOW THE KIWI LOST HIS WINGS
(reprint from KiwiNewZ)

One day, Tanemahuta was walking through the forest. He looked up at his children reaching for the sky and he noticed that they were starting to sicken, as bugs were eating them.
He talked to his brother, Tanehokahoka, who called all of his children, the birds of the air together.
Tanehahuta spoke to them.
"Something is eating my children, the trees. I need one of you to come down from the forest roof and live on the floor, so that my children can be saved, and your home can be saved. Who will come?"
All was quiet, and not a bird spoke.
Tanehokahoka turned to Tui.
"E Tui, will you come down from the forest roof?"
Tui looked up at the trees and saw the sun filtering through the leaves. Tui looked down at the forest floor and saw the cold, dark earth and shuddered.
"Kao, Tanehokahoka, for it is too dark and I am afraid of the dark."
Tanehokahoka turned to Pukeko.
"Pukeko, will you come down from the forest roof?"
Pukeko looked down at the forest floor and saw the cold, damp earth and shuddered.
"Kao, Tanehokahoka, for it is too damp and I do not want to get my feet wet."
All was quiet, and not a bird spoke.
Tanehokahoka turned to Pipiwharauroa.
"Pipiwharauroa, will you come down from the forest roof?"
Pipiwharauroa looked up at the trees and saw the sun filtering through the leaves. Pipiwharauroa looked around and saw his family.
"Kao, Tanehokahoka, for I am busy at the moment building my nest."
All was quiet, and not a bird spoke. And great was the sadness in the heart of Tanehokahoka, for he knew that if one of his children did not come down from the forest roof, not only would his brother lose his children, but the birds would have no home.
Kiwi looked up at the trees and saw the sun filtering through the leaves. Kiwi looked around and saw his family. Kiwi looked at the cold, damp earth. Looking around once more, he turned to Tanehokahoka and said, "I will."
Great was the joy in the hearts of Tanehokahoka and Tanemahuta, for this little bird was giving them hope. But Tanemahuta felt that he should warn kiwi of what would happen.
"E kiwi, do you realize that if you do this, you will have to grow thick, strong legs so that you can rip apart the logs on the ground and you will lose your beautiful coloured feathers and wings so that you will never be able to return to the forest roof. You will never see the light of day again."
All was quiet, and not a bird spoke.
"E kiwi, will you come down from the forest roof?"
Kiwi took one last look at the sun filtering through the trees and said a silent goodbye. Kiwi took one last look at the other birds, their wings and their coloured feathers and said a silent goodbye. Looking around once more, he turned to Tanehokahoka and said, "I will."
Then Tanehokahoka turned to the other birds and said,
"E Tui, because you were too scared to come down from the forest roof, from now on you will wear the two white feathers at your throat as the mark of a coward.
"Pukeko, because you did not want to get your feet wet, you will live forever in the swamp.
"Pipiwharauroa, because you were too busy building your nest, from now on you will never build another nest again, but lay your eggs in other birds' nests.
"But you, Kiwi, because of your great sacrifice, you will become the most well known and most loved bird of them all."
The End

HAWKE'S BAY ATTRACTIONS

Hawke's Bay has an amazing amount of things to do and see within thirty minutes to an hour of either of the Twin Cities (Napier and Hastings). And there are plenty of tour operators willing to help you discover the area.
Art Deco. Hawke's Bay is the Art Deco Capital of the world—thanks to the 1931 earthquake that virtually destroyed most of Napier and Hastings. The cities were rebuilt in the fashionable styles of the time—Spanish Mission, Stripped Classical, and above all, Art Deco.
Cape Kidnappers. Cape Kidnappers is one of the largest, most accessible, mainland Gannet colonies in the world. Visited by thousands of people each year, particularly between early November and late February, the Cape itself is a geological marvel.
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Wineries/Vineyards. Hawke's Bay consistently produces a broad spectrum of award-winning wines. With 28 wineries in the region, all of them open to tourists, and many of them with restaurants, Hawke's Bay has become world-renowned for its wineries. The "Wine Trail" is a must for all visitors to the region.
Marine Parade. The waterfront of Napier has a lot to offer: Marineland, Hawke's Bay Museum, Aquarium, Canam Cars and Bumper Boats, Kiwi House.
Splash Planet. Splash Planet is a unique leisure park built amidst beautiful surroundings with entertainment aimed at the entire family. Formerly known as Fantasyland, it features a combination of wet and dry rides catering to all ages from toddlers to teens to the young at heart.
Te Mata Peak. Known as the Sleeping Giant, Te Mata Peak stands 399 metres above sea level. With an uninterrupted view over the region, the Ruahine, Kaweka and Maungaharuru ranges form the horizon with the volcano Ruapehu in the background. The peak is visited extensively by locals and tourists. With bush-walks, hang-gliding and paragliding, orienteering and rock-climbing as just a few of the attractions to the peak, it is well worth a visit.

FORGOTTEN SILVER AND
CINEMA OF UNEASE - Charles Eggen

Eva, I just posted the following in a movie newsgroup, and I thought you and your readers might be interested. If you want further details about these films, let me know. (cne@teleport.com)
On Sunday 20 August 2000 "Sally G. Waters" (sgwaters@gte.net) wrote:
"Caught this mockumentary (Forgotten Silver) on the Sundance Channel tonight and just loved it—a biography of New Zealatkd's greatest, unknown filmmaker, Colin McKenzie, complete with interviews with Leonard Maltin, the head of Miramar, Peter Jackson, and others. This is terrific filmmaking; not only does McKenzie's 'recently-discovered' footage look totally authentic (spots on the film, etc.) but as a look at the history of film, it's funny, touching, and really very smart. Definitely one to catch! Sally"
I agree with you, Sally, this film is definitely one of the best from New Zealand. For those who might be interested, it can be purchased (new) from Amazon or Movies Unlimited in the US or Videoflicks in Canada for about US$27+shipping. However, you can order either a PAL or NTSC version of it from New Zealand for the equivalent of US$30, including economy (World Mail) shipping, but the video will
also contain Sam Neill's Cinema of Unease, at no additional cost. These two titles are about 55 min. each.
Cinema of Unease is a history of New Zealand cinema and contains some 60 film clips as well as Sam Neill's perspective. I highly recommend this film It is not available from North American sources. This was New Zealand's contribution to the British Film Institute's Century of Cinema series. I have included the direct link to the order site, but the URL is so long, you might want to just go to the front page and do a search for Forgotten Silver. Be sure to click on the appropriate format (PAL or NTSC). http://www.flyingpig.co.nz/
These folks (Flying Pig) use an air freight service, so the shipping is higher than it should be, IMO, but it still is a great bargain. I am trying to get another NZ business that will ship by economy air mail, to stock the NTSC version of this package, but they have not done so yet.
Unfortunately neither of these films are yet available used, so you won't find them at ebay, etc. Just for the record, I am not connected with the above NZ business, nor do I receive any commissions. I just thought you might want to know about how to obtain it. I am in the organizational stage of developing a website dedicated to New Zealand Feature Films on Video. That is why I have this kind of information. I hope to have most of the site up later this year. - Charles Eggen

SCULPTURE CARVES OUT KIWI HISTORY -
from Manukau Courier

A large piece of New Zealand history has taken up residence at the Auckland War memorial Museum.
The huge pou whenua (carved post) was created for Auckland iwi, Ngati Paoa, by master carver Tu Karamaene.
Weighing more than half a tonne and nearly four metres long, the carving joins two pou (carvings) which date oack to pre-European co1nact, on display in the Maori Natural History gallery, Te Ao Turoa.
Three carvings on display represent the three tribes associated with Maori governance (Taumata-a- iwi) of the museum—Ngati Paoa, Ngati Whatua 0 Orakei and Tainui.
Museum director Dr. Rodney Wilson says the carvings are of major historical and artistic significance.
The carved post was commissioned for the new millennium, and like its ancient counterparts was carved with stone adzes, which is significant because it's the first major Maori carving since European contact to have used stone technology.
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"Accordingly, the process of creating the carving has been a highly tapu (sacred) event and a huge learning experience for the carver and the museum as well," says Dr. Wilson.

SHIPPING DISASTERS AT BLUFF
Graham Wilson

I have researched the many shipwrecks that have occurred in and around Bluff over the years. There have been many shipwrecks in the vicinity of the notorious and treacherous stretch of water known as Foveaux Strait.
From 1845 to 1899 there had been thirty-six shipwrecks accounted for in the area around Bluff. Seventeen occurred at Bluff Harbour, where Tiwai and Stirling Points bothe make the Port of Bluff very treacherous indeed, especially when entering in bad weather. The first wreck was Captain Stirling's Success in 1845, but the most famous of the Bluff shipwrecks by far, was the barque England's Glory in 1881.
The Pelham Rock, which is situated just 300 yards off Stirling Point and roughly 150 yards offshore, claimed four vessels during this era. Their names were: the Amazon 1852, Scotia 1864, Pelham (which the rock was named for), and the Maid of Otago, both in 1886.
During this period there were some strange goings on—on one occasion when the Ocean Chief was at its moorings after sustaining considerable damage, and refloated, some of her crew decided to. set her on tire so they could desert and make for the goldfields. After saving a number of sheep from the vessel Time and Truth, the Aphrasia was returning to port when she was struck by the steamer Price Alfred, and was badly damaged. The Prince Alfred steamed on, only to collide with the Yarra, taking off some of her spars.
The remaining eighteen shipwrecks were in the Foveaux Strait area (excluding wrecks at Stewart Island). The first of these was in 1836 when an uni- dentified vessel sank. It was believed to be American built, of about 300 tons register. There was a total of five wrecks at Ruapuke Island in a 21-year period between 1873 and 1894.
(For more go to http://www.angelfire.com)
NEW ZEALAND SAYS SO LONG TO 'SIR' -
L.A. Times
This country put knighthoods to the sword recently, scrapping the use of the titles "Sir" and "Dame" in favor of a local system of honors.
But mountaineer Sir Edmund Hilary and opera diva Dame Kiri Te Kanawa will retain their titles because the new measure does not strip current holders of their honors.
Prime Minister Helen Clark made the announcement that her Labor-led coalition was discontinuing the use of the titles in a break with the tradition according to which New Zealand's head of state, Britain's Queen Elizabeth II, has bestowed them.
Clark said the queen had "approved the recommendation of the government to discontinue" using the honorifics.
Most New Zealanders favor a distinctive New Zealand system, with awards based on merit rather than recognition by the government—although government recommendations for those to be named knights or dames also were based on public consultation.
Under the new system, the top honor will be the Order of New Zealand, which will be held by only 10 living people at any one time. The honor will entitle the holder to put the letters ONZ after his or her name but will not carry a title.

NOTE: Remember the "Inter Nature" bus tours described in the June KIWIphile FILE? Keep in mind that Suzi Beacham at World Wide Tours & Travel can make reservations for you (888-697-0911). email at Wwtourtrvl@aol.com Thanks. She will charge you the NZD amount and convert at current exchange rates.

When you make inquiries about and/or reservations for anything in New Zealand, if you saw it here please mention that you saw it in the KIWIphile FILE!! Thank you.

I HOPE TO RECEIVE YOUR LETTER OR STORY FOR NEXT ISSUE!
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