Volume XV, No. 1

SEPTEMBER 2002

FIFFEEN YEARS OF KIWlphile FILE

It's difficult for me to believe that I am beginning the 15th year of publication of KIWIphile FILE. The first brief awkward issue was mailed out to about 50 people in September 1988.

My husband John and I made five trips to New Zealand, and I've been there two more times since I've been alone. Much has changed in all those years, I suppose, but my feelings are never- changing: I LOVE NEW ZEALAND!

There's something about New Zealand I've not experienced elsewhere—a lingering, almost haunting feeling of nostalgia for a gentler time. A sense of soft comfort settles one's soul and restores faith in life.

I am grateful that New Zealand exists and that I can sometimes visit there. As John said, it's a place where you can actually SEE the billions of stars we share the universe with, and where people mean what they say!

Thanks to all you kiwiphiles for being there, giving me the opportunity to express my love for Aotearoa. If you haven't yet made the trip I can only say—go for it. You'll be glad you did!

COMING SOON - PAST ISSUES OF K.F.

ONLINE!

POWHIRl — NEW ZEALAND'S

WELCOMING SPIRIT

Haere mai! Haere mai! Haere mai!

Once! Twice! Thrice! Welcome.

The powhiri is a ceremony of welcome extended to visitors by Maori, the indigenous people of New Zealand. Here we invite you to follow the sequence of a powhiri, which we hope you will experience as part of your visit to our country.

The traditions and protocol of the powhiri provide an insight into the unique and spiritual world of the Maori, which is as important today as in the past. The various elements of the powhiri serve to ward off evil spirits and unite both visitor and host in an environment of friendship and peace.

The word powhiri encapsulates two important concepts to Maori. According to Waitangi kaumatua (elder), Wiremu Williams, of the Nga Puhi iwi (tribe), the word po can be translated as a venture into the "unknown" or a new experience, while Whiri is derived from the term Whiriwhiri meaning the act or experience of exchanging information and knowledge.

This presentation features images and recordings of the people of Waitangi, a small settlement in the Bay of Islands (on the east coast of the Northland peninsula), renowned for its historical significance, scenic beauty and great fishing.

In 1840 Waitangi became the first location for the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, an agreement between the British Crown and Maori, and New Zealand's founding document.

KINGSTON FLYER STAYS ON

SOUTHLAND TRACKS (Scoop)

Tranz Rail and a joint venture business backed by Invest South Limited recently confirmed the sale of the Kingston Flyer with the famed historic steam train to remain on track as a leading tourist attraction in the Southland province.

Invest South, a company owned by the Southland Building Society will purchase carriages that make up the train set from Tranz Rail and will lease these to the joint venture operating company.

Southland businessmen Phil Kerr and Ian

Cauldwell, operating as the Kingston Flyer Steam

Train Joint Venture, reached an agreement with

Kingston Flyer Ltd. the track owners, on buying the

tracks last week.

Tranz Rail Managing Director Michael Beard said he was satisfied an agreement had been reached that would keep the famous train in its Southland home.

HONOUR OF THE CENTURY

The last 100 years of tourism in New Zealand has been formed by innovative companies and the inspirational people behind those companies. To celebrate 100 years since the first department of tourism was set up Tourism New Zealand instigated the Centennial Honours. People and companies were nominated by members of the public, and the Tourism Awards judges chose winners for each decade.

1891 —1911

Department of Tourist & Health Resorts (now Tourism New Zealand): The first government department in the world to promote tourism was set up on 1 February 1901.

Newmans: It was 1879 when pioneering brothers Tom and Harry Newman founded Newmans. It soon became synonymous with transport nationwide.

1911 —1921

Rodolph & Harry Wigley: Father and son duo Rodolph and Harry Wigley pioneered road and air transport at the turn of the century in the Tasman region — and opened up the area for tourism growth.

1921—1931

Ernest Fuller: Ernest Fuller began the 'Cream Run' collecting from the farms dotted around the Bay of Islands in the 1920s. By the 1950s the cans had been replaced by passengers.

1931 — 1941

Maori Guides of Whakarewarewa: The earliest tourists to the Pink and White Terraces were guided and hosted by the local Maori Guide Rangi, in the 1930s one of the most famous of all the guides.

1941 — 1951

Air New Zealand: The skies above Waitemata Harbour witnessed the birth of our first trans-Tasman commercial airline in the 1940s. It was called TEAL — today Air New Zealand.

1951 — 1961

Les & Olive Hutchins: In 1954 Les and Olive Hutchins started their Manapouri-Doubtful Sound Tourist Company from scratch and in the middle of nowhere. Today, in 2002 Fiordland Travel takes visitors to Milford, Te Anau and Queenstown as well.

1961— 1971

Milford Track: Known as the "finest walk in the world" the Milford Track has had its place in the tourism industry for more than 110 years. The first walkers on the Milford Track were in the 1890s.

Maori Arts & Crafts Institute: In 1962 the Maori Arts & Crafts Institute was created to preserve the heritage of the Maori people and encourage culture and appreciation of the skills of the Maori arts and crafts.

1971— 1981

Trevor Gamble (Shotover Jet): Invented by a New Zealander in the '50s, the jetboat soon found its mark in the adventure tourism market, thanks to those such as Trevor Gamble who took this marvellous new invention and in 1964 created a highly successful tourism venture.

George Harford (Agrodome): The Agrodome was the brainchild of George Harford and Godfrey Bowen. The first of the now renowned sheep shows was held in 1971.

1981—1991

Henry Van Asch and AJ Hackett: Diving from great heights with only a cord tied by the ankles has become synonymous with New Zealand and a tourism drawcard, thanks to the pioneering innovation of AJ Hackett and Henry Van Asch.

1991 — 2001

Whale Watch Kaikoura: From railways to whales, it's not a logical progression. But when the late Bill Solomon saw that Kaikoura's lifeblood of railway jobs was about to end, he set about creating the whale watch experience - accurately predicting people would come from far and wide to watch the whales at play off the coast of Kaikoura. He was right and today Whale Watch Kaikoura is one of the world's leading ecotourism operations.

LOS ANGELES AREA KIWI GROUP

(from a New Zealand Newsgroup)

Hi there Kiwis: I have been a watcher and very occasional participant in this newsgroup.

I am writing to let you know about a group that is trying to form a social and business network for Kiwis living in Los Angeles.

Our group has formed from a core group that was originally the L.A.-Auckland sister city committee. We all agreed that it would be much more fun to make our mission broader and try to facilitate some good kiwi networking in LA.

We are currently trying to track down as many kiwis as we can that live in the greater LA area. If any of you know kiwis in the Los Angeles area, please direct them to our new website at:

www.kiwisinla.com

They can then register their name and information. We will then contact you when we get some events up and running.

Please help us help ourselves - and spread the word as far as you can. Thanks for all the help.

Cheers!

Paul Krivonos

TELL THEM YOU SAW IT IN

THE KIWIphile FILE!!

BEST-KEPT SECRET (The Queen Charlotte Walkway) — from PureNZ.com — by Dave Armstrong.

I knew all about the Milford Track, the Routeburn, the Heaphy Track, and the Abel Tasman National Park — tourists flock to these popular New Zealand walking tracks. But what a pleasant surprise I had discovering the lesser-known Queen Charlotte Walkway — 67 kilometres of beautiful native bush in the picturesque Marlborough Sounds — definitely one of New Zealand's best kept hiking secrets.

To walk the track, head for Picton, a small pretty town at the top of the South Island. You can either travel up from Christchurch, about 4 hours by car or train, or take the ferry across Cook Strait from Wellington. Cook Strait, named after British explorer James Cook, cuts between New Zealand's North and South Islands.

Picton is a delightful little town, and there is an excellent Visitor Information Centre and many cafes to enjoy if you have time to kill before catching a ferry or water taxi. Like most of the areas around here, Picton is a good place to sample the local seafood. Fishing is good, and the local speciality, mussels, are in plentiful supply.

Walking the entire Queen Charlotte Walkway can take up to four days. But the traveller with limited time can plan a shorter trip along the walkway, from a three-hour bush walk to the complete four-day adventure.

To begin the Queen Charlotte Walkway, I took a water taxi north from Picton to Ship Cove. It was a large boat with an upper deck ideal for sightseeing, with comfortable seats at the back. I sat

back and enjoyed the scenery for an hour or so. What makes the Marlborough Sounds landscape so dramatic is the narrowness of the sounds. Steep valleys rise up on both sides, so you feel totally enclosed and 'close to nature'. There were all sorts of passengers on board—hikers, residents stocking up on supplies, and children visiting with their families for the school holidays.

Each bay we visited had picturesque little 'baches' (holiday cottages) nestled in the lush native bush, a boat or two moored on the water, and a boatshed. The arrival of the water taxi usually brought the local residents out to see who was coming and going. Even the children, splashing in the warm water of the Sounds, would stop playing to check out the latest arrivals.

After passing a seemingly endless number of bays, we arrived at Ship Cove. Captain Cook landed here approximately 230 years before me, and was delighted to find a plentiful supply of fresh water. But more importantly for me, Ship Cove was the start of the Queen Charlotte Walkway. The track weaves from here, through the Marlborough Sounds, ending at Makiwa. It travels through both Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds, and, like its big sister, the Abel Tasman track, affords brilliant views of the coastal bays as well as the beautiful native bush.

I took a quick look at the stone monument erected at Ship Cove, complete with cannons from Cook's time, then I was off While the Queen Charlotte Walkway travels through dense native bush, it's easy to find your way. The Department of Conservation (DoC) has provided helpful signposts, and the track is wide enough that this section is open to mountain bikers in the off-peak times, I vowed to come back in autumn or winter with a mountain bike, though most hikers I met reckoned the mountain bikers missed all the best scenery as they were too busy negotiating the awesome track!

While the track is easy to navigate, the steep hills on the walkway still provide a challenge. Much of the track consists of flat sections around a bay, followed by steep climbs to the summit of a hill, then down to the next bay. While these climbs are an effort, the views from the top are simply stunning. After a couple of hours walking through the gorgeous coastal forest, I decided to have a break. Luckily, I had arrived at Resolution Bay.

It's rare to find accommodation and even cafes on New Zealand walking tracks, but the Queen Charlotte Walkway is a happy exception, with a number of lodges, hostels, pubs, cafes and camping

sites along the way. Resolution Bay, also named by Captain Cook, has some excellent cabins, and a café that will provide you with a drink and a snack. I felt very civilized as I enjoyed a cup of tea and looked out over the jetty to the sparkling water. I wondered if Captain Cook had done the exact same thing at this spot two hundred years previously!

Back on the Queen Charlotte Walkway, the helpful DoC sign pointed the way to Endeavour Inlet, about three hours away. While most of the walkway is a bush track, there are some interesting exceptions. Around Resolution Bay are little pieces of private farmland, so as well as native birds, I came across a very noisy poodle!

You'd think a walking track miles away from the nearest town would be quiet and tranquil. No way! The numerous birds and cicadas ensured that the noise level kept up throughout the walk. Before human settlement in New Zealand, there was even more wildlife than there is now. It must have been quite a noisy place. For each hill I climbed, there was a stunning new view of a bay. On the higher hills, you could see way out past the picturesque bays, often dotted with a yacht or dinghy, to look out over to the North Island.

Further up the track, I was ready to descend into the bay, when I heard a loud thud up in the trees. Looking up, I saw a large bird, a kereru, or native wood pigeon. Now a protected species, it used to be a delicacy among the Maori. Soon three more kereru joined the ones above us. Thud thud thud! With their breast feathers shimmering, I understood why the feathers and meat of these large birds were highly prized. We grabbed our cameras. Just as I had four kereru in focus, they flew away and disappeared— and I never saw another one on the entire walk. The one that got away!

As I continued along the track, the scenery got better and better. On one side were picture-perfect bays with water sparkling in the sunshine, on the other, stunning native bush. Large native trees towered over shimmering silver ferns, punga (tree ferns), vines and mossy undergrowth. Then I began my descent down to sea level. From Resolution Bay, the track had been quite rugged, and devoid of human sounds. But now I was noticing signs of civilization: voices, people on windsurfers, large jetties, children playing. I was approaching Endeavour Inlet. Needing a rest, I found a small bay and sat on a rock. There I noticed a large clear mass glistening in the hot sun. Had someone misplaced a plastic bag? No, it was a stranded jellyfish.

A little more walking through native forest, then I came to a sign commanding me to get off my mountain bike if I was riding one. After a short walk through a bushy park, I came to a large building with a beautiful lawn. This was no mirage, it was Furneaux Lodge—a hotel set in a gorgeous bay in Endeavour Inlet.

After a hard day's walking, Furneaux Lodge is a sight for sore eyes. There's a well stocked bar, and lovely outdoor tables. There are also tennis courts, a beach, and little chalets nearby. If you're doing the entire Queen Charlotte Walkway, there are a number of places like Furneaux Lodge where you can stay overnight. I was so hot and thirsty, I decided the best thing for me would be an ice-cold Kiwi beer. It tasted great, and I was reminded of Captain Cook's words when he fermented his own beer at Ship Cove and found it exceedingly palatable and esteemed by everyone on board.

Unfortunately this was the end of the track for me. I would have dearly loved to continue on the Queen Charlotte Walkway—around the rest of Endeavour Inlet to Punga Cove, through rugged bush over to Kenepuru Sound, with stunning sea views on both sides, and through the gorgeous beech forests to Anakiwa. But future hiking and mountain biking would have to wait. I was thankful that it was so easy for the traveller to choose a half- or full-day experience - though if you do have the time, it is heartily recommended.

In the city it can be frustrating waiting for a taxi, but waiting for the water taxi at Furneaux Lodge was a pleasure. I sat outside at a table, enjoying a drink, and chatting with some of the friendly locals who were in 'town' for Friday night. It was interesting to see them pull up to their 'local', not in cars, but in dinghies, motorboats, and rowboats. I had a quick paddle in the bay, then watched the most beautiful sunset.

The water taxi arrived as the sun had almost set. As we skimmed across the water, the steep hills casting long shadows over the bays, I saw a small penguin valiantly struggling to swim across the bay. It was my last highlight in a day of highlights, in the Marlborough Sounds.

SIMPLY THE BEST - by Stephen Mangum

New Zealand's Black Ferns repeated as the Women's Rugby World Cup champions by defeating England 19-9 in the final held at Barcelona, Spain, in May.

The Kiwis swept through the preliminary and semi-final matches easily before facing England, the only team with a win over NZ in the last ten years. The English put forth a great effort but fell to the veteran New Zealanders.

It was a very memorable day for Monique Hirovanna. She celebrated her 36th birthday, scored a try, and skillfully set up another to Cheryl Waaka.

Following the match coach Daryl Suasua, captain Farah Palmer, and a sizeable number of teammates indicated that they would go out on top of the world and retire from international competition.

The All Blacks are off to an excellent start at 6-0, trying to reclaim the Bledisloe Cup and Tri- Nations title while building for the 2003 World Cup. Coach John Mitchell, assisted by Robbie Deans along with selectors Kieren Crowley and Mark Shaw have picked a squad dominated by players from Canterbury's unbeaten Super 12 champion Crusaders. Reuben Thorne was picked as captain following major surgery to his predecessor, Anton Oliver.

Mitchell is not averse to trying different combinations of players and is reemphasizing the role of the forwards in forcing the ball upfield in tandem with the AB's speedy backs.

New Zealand opened with a 64-10 win over Italy at Hamilton's Waikato Stadium. Italy is now coached by former All Black great John Kirwan. The next week Ireland went down 15-6 at Carisbrook Park, Dunedin. The boys opened up the offense to beat the tough Irish again 40-8 at Eden Park. Auckland on June 22, then ran all over Fiji 68-18 at Wellington.

The Tri-Nations campaign opened with a hard fought 12-6 win over Australia on July 13 in rainy conditions at Jade Stadium at Christchurch. Playing one man down after a penalty, the AB's hung on desperately at the end to close out the Wallabies.

The following Saturday New Zealand hosted traditional rival South Africa in cool, windy, and dry conditions at Wellington. The Springboks jumped out to a 10-3 lead with a quick try. The All Blacks came storming back to score five tries. Final score: New Zealand 41, South Africa 20. The all-time series record is now All Blacks 30 wins, Springboks 26 wins, and 3 ties.

Overall New Zealand has demonstrated great defense and more composure than in previous years. Andrew Mehrtens has been a steady hand at flyhalf running the offense and demonstrating his world-class kicking. Other standouts in a well-balanced team have been Chris Jack, Richie McCaw, and Doug Howlett.

Christian Cullen has taken over the career test try-scoring lead with 46.

After concluding the Tri-Nations tournament in August the team will rest up before embarking on a fall tour to Europe. New Zealand faces England in a huge match on Saturday, November 9, at Twickenham, followed on the 16th by France at the Stade de Paris. The third and final test will be on November 23rd vs Wales at Millenium Stadium, Cardiff.

The fifth Rugby World Cup will be held in Australia from October 10 through November 22, 2003. It will feature four pools of five teams each. The top two from each pool make the quarter finals. The eight quarter-finalists from the 1999 Cup automatically qualify and will be seeded overall in the same order of finish. Host Australia is seeded first followed by France, South Africa, New Zealand, Wales, England, Scotland, and Argentina. The twelve other teams will be selected by a series of regional qualifying tournaments.

A total of 48 matches will be played throughout the country in major capitals and other cities. The tournament opens with Australia vs Argentina on October 10 at Sydney and concludes with the semi-finals, third-place match, and the championship for the William Webb Ellis trophy November 22, also in Sydney.

The Aussies are seeded I in Pool A and, predictably, have the easiest road to the semis. France is seeded 1st in Pool B, while South Africa and England draw C, the dreaded "Pool of Death". New Zealand is seeded 1st in Pool D, followed by Wales and three others to be determined. The All Blacks matches will be played in Melbourne, Sydney, and Brisbane, all of which feature strong Kiwi support.

Perth, West Australia, will host the much anticipated early round match between England and South Africa.

The New Zealand Maori team drew strong support during their recent tour of Australia. Led by coach Matt Te Pou and versatile back Carlos Spencer, they opened up with a close loss to the Queensland Reds at Brisbane 28-25. The Maoris stormed back to crunch the New South Wales Waratabs at Sydney 43- 18. The trip concluded with an oh-so-close loss to the Wallabies at Perth, W.A.

Looking ever forward to more great matches on pitches around the globe. Until next time, play on!

KIWI ICON TURNS CONTEMPORARY RESORT - purenz.com

New Zealand's iconic Portage Resort Hotel— an overnight stop on the Queen Charlotte Walkway in the Marlborough Sounds—has just completed a major upgrade of all facilities.

The resort's contemporary new look incorporates fresh modern beach-style rooms, an upmarket restaurant and waterside bar, catering for adventurers, walkers and those looking for a luxurious break.

Portage owner Alison Evans says the new look is distinctly New Zealand and maximises its beautiful setting.

"In the magical Kenepuru Sound there is an abundance of outdoor activities, great food and award- winning wine for guests to relax and enjoy," she says.

Always a popular holiday destination for New Year's Eve revellers, the new look Portage Resort Hotel is attracting overseas visitors with a range of packages focusing on the area's attractions.

Some of the packages include its water, walks and wine experiences, ranging from a 30 minute nature walk to a full day hike; sightseeing boat cruises; Kayaking trips or a visit to some of Marlborough's wineries.

The Portage Resort Hotel is accessible by plane or boat from New Zealand's capital city Wellington or a short ferry trip from the tip of the South Island.

Mt. COOK

New Zealand's majestic peak was an early source of publicity, attracting the attention of climbers as early as 1882, two years before the Hermitage Hotel was built and the first guiding services were offered.

It was a New Zealand party (Tom Fyfe, George Graham and Jack Clarke) who made the first successful ascent of Cook in 1894, focussing major public attention on the area for the first time.

Early tourists could take guided trips to the glaciers and admire the views while staying in Huddleston's Hermitage of 1884.

In the late 1880-90s, visitors endured a rough cart track and coach ride into the Hermitage, until Rodoiph Wigley's Mt Cook Motor Car Service provided the first car transportation from Fairlie in 1906.

Equipped with telephones in case of emergency back up, it was not uncommon for them to be needed. The first car trip of 22 hours was obviously too long for some.

On arrival at The Hermitage, instead of a well-deserved welcome, Wigleys party found the Hermitage staff sound asleep!

It wasn't until the 1900s when access became easier, and travel costs less prohibitive, that tourist numbers began to grow. The new Hermitage hotel was opened (1914) by the tourist department, skiing was introduced (1915) on the glaciers, and publicity got underway.

The Hermitage was leased to the Mount Cook Company in 1922 and their slogan "Thousands of feet above worry level" found its mark. With the new ski- plane in 1955 introducing flight seeing, the Tasman area continued to rise as a significant tourism attraction.

THE HERMITAGE - Mt COOK

Back then it was pack horses, carts, 10-day stays and the early morning 'cuppa' in bed. Now it's cars, planes, an overnighter and a cappuccino. But still the magnificent Southern Alps draw visitors to Mt. Cook and the Hermitage Hotel in steady numbers.

It was 1884 when Frank Huddleston bought 30 acres and carted in 20 tons of timber on horseback for the first hotel at Mt Cook. The following year the Hermitage Hotel was ready for its first 30 guests.

With difficult access and high costs for travellers, the Hermitage had a chequered early career, with management juggled back and forth between the Mount Cook Company and the Government, and a relocation two miles down the track in 1914

The hotel was re-born under the Mt. Cook Company in a new lease from the Government in 1922.

"Thousands of feet above worry level" was the Mt Cook Company slogan. Among the first to offer packages to tourists, owner Rodolph and son Harry Wigley's efforts pioneering passenger transport services into the remote area (1906), managing the hotel, introducing and encouraging skiing on the glaciers, and inventing the ski-plane, put Mt Cook firmly on the tourist map.

The THC took over the hotel in 1956 and the following year it was destroyed by fire. A new Hermitage was quickly designed and rebuilt by the THC, re-opening in May 1958—less than 12 months later.

By now, with skiing an established recreation, the glaciers accessible to professional climbers, amateurs and tourists, the new ski-plane offering flight-seeing and access to unknown territory, and a new Hermitage Hotel, the area was an established

year-round resort for both domestic and international visitors.

One of the earliest THC hotels to have bathrooms throughout and the first to change from the set menu to a la carte in the 1970s, the Hermitage is something of an icon, continuing to attract more than 300,000 tourists annually.

QUEENSTOWN LODGE SCOOPS AWARD

Queenstown's Evergreen Lodge is popping the champagne corks, after scooping five categories at the Tourism Awards.

The small four-suite boutique lodge has won the hosted accommodation award, visitor accommodation and transport, a distinction award, and the small business operators award.

On top of that, the luxury lodge took out the supreme award of the year.

Manager Gary Withers says the secret to their success is keeping the lodge small and intimate.

WORLD'S FIREFIGHTERS GEAR UP FOR THE CHRISTCHURCH GAMES

Firefighters from throughout the world are preparing to descend on Christchurch, NZ, for the World Firefighters Games from 26 October to 20 November 2002.

Held every two years in different countries, the 2002 games are special in that they have been dedicated to firefighters who have died in the line of duty.

Event chief Murray Jamieson says the decision to make the games a memorial for fallen firefighters follows the attack on the World Trade Centre on 11 September 2001, but it embraces all firefighters who have lost their lives in the line of duty.

A special memorial medal has been struck and will be presented to the first 3,000 firefighters to register. A park near Christchurch central fire station will be dedicated as a memorial to all firefighters as part of the games, while an extensive games village is being established at Hagley Park.

The sporting events are taken very seriously firefighters competing have been training for and the months.

The glamour event of the games is always the Toughest Firefighter Alive contest. This will involve several rugged challenges, including running up 20 flights of stairs dressed in full protective clothing including breathing apparatus.

Jamieson says firefighters are an international brotherhood, and the games will be as much a social event as a sporting one. All events are being organised by New Zealand firefighters.

"We are going to turn on a great event. We want to see firefighters from all over the world come here, enjoy their sport and complete the brotherhood once again. After what happened in New York, a time like this will be a healing process for us all."

DUNEDIN - from nz.com

Dunedin is the second largest city on the South Island, and the only real "University Town" in the country. Founded by the Scottish Free Church, the city was originally to have been called New Edinburgh. "Dunedin", more interestingly, is the old Gaelic name for the same city. Even today, the city still retains a strong Scottish flavour: there's haggis at New Year's, a statue of Robbie Burns in the town square—or rather the town Octogon—and the sound of bagpipes to accompany every occasion.

When Mark Twain visited Dunedin, he had this to say about the subject:

"When I was passing through the North Island, I noticed that on the gates in the fences on each side of the railroad right-of-way there were signs that read "Please close the gate", in the characteristic polite way of the English. But when I passed into Otago Province I noticed that the wording of the signs was different. They read "Any person. who fails to close this gate after passing through it will be subject to a fine of five pounds". Then I knew that I had arrived where the Scots ruled.

While we can hardly agree with the prejudice expressed, we are grateful for the results of this Scottish rule, including the Neogothic architecture exemplified by "First Church" (1873, Presbyterian).

VERTIGO OFFERS ULTIMATE HIGH

Auckland's latest tourism adventure product, Vertigo, lets climbers experience the thrill of climbing the Sky Tower mast to an open air crow's nest 300 metres above sea level. A two-hour guided tour up the inside of Sky Tower's mast, Vertigo reaches the highest viewing platform in the Southern Hemisphere.

Vertigo spokesman Martin Lekner says the Sky Tower mast climb experience is now fully operational.

"All Vertigo guide staff are pre-qualified on height safety training and are medically certified. They

have all been through an extensive training programme based specifically on the vertigo experience."

Vertigo combines both entertaining and educational information about Sky Tower, Auckland City and the wider Auckland region including special points of interest, weather patterns, oceans, ports and evidence of Auckland's volcanic origins.

Sky City's Jill Birch is looking forward to Vertigo's role in the Auckland region.

"As the region's newest adventure tourism activity, we hope Vertigo will add a further reason for tourists and visitors to extend their length of stay in Auckland."

Experienced Vertigo guides can take groups of up to five adults up to the Sky Tower crow's nest. Anyone in good general health can experience the new adventure climb and there are no age restrictions.

(Vanessa Regan, Sky City, Ph. +64-9-363-6017

E-mail: vregan@skycity.co.nz)

GOOD THINGS TO EAT!

In NEXT Magazine I've read recently about two places you might like to visit.

First, the Seriously Good Chocolate Company, 20 Windsor Street, Invercargill. (Phone 03-2 17 5107, www.choctruffles.co.nz).

Belinda tries just about anything in her pies: venison, turkey, pheasant, emu, ostrich, rabbit and wallaby are combined with wine, herbs and spices and encased in golden flaky crust.

Belinda's customers are as varied as her fillings. Duck and black cherry pies were ordered for a formal dinner party. Starving truckies are partial to her wild goat, thyme and redcurrant pies. At lunchtime workers from nearby industries pile into her shop, the Pie Bin, located on the outskirts of Rangiora.

The Pie Bin logo features the head of a High- land cattle beast, one of those big, cuddly, shaggy teddy-bears-in-disguise with enormous handle-bar horns. Belinda says the beef makes wonderful pies. The steak is lower in fat and cholesterol and has a light flavor.

The Pie Bin offers interesting, no-meat options for vegetarians. Belinda came up with a combination of pumpkin, zucchini, red onion, roast tomatoes, feta cheese and basil. She also does fruit pies.

(You can visit the Pie Bin at 21 Station Road, Rangiora, or phone or fax the shop on (03) 313 5995.)

AMERICA'S CUP SPECIAL SAILING ESCAPE

The 31st America's Cup will be sailed in Auckland, NZ, in 2002-2003, with the Louis Vuitton Round Robins starting the 1st of October, and the final challenge in February 2003. Tailored Travel New Zealand Custom Tours will design exclusively for YOU a package true to our custom travel. We want you to experience, enjoy and KNOW the country, the people and its culture, including the America's Cup phenomenon. There is more to New Zealand and we make sure that you get the best balance of culture and nature as well as your personal requests included in your travel experience with us.

Your advantage is that Tailored Travel is different.

a. Only two to four people per departure

b. Private guide/driver for the duration of your travel

c. Exclusive on the water viewing (not on a ferry vessel)

d. Sailing experience outside the racing action

e. Meals: All gourmet meals are included prepared with fresh and local produce

f. Accommodations: Luxury lodges with private, ensuite bathrooms

g. Time/pace. You get to see and do what you want to do and see at your pace and at your leisure. Your personal guide is always there for you, with support and advice

h. Travel dates: We can tailor a tour around YOUR travel dates. We recommend a 15 day minimum stay in New Zealand

i. Transportation: You will have the luxury of traveling in a Toyota Previa 8 seater van (when not on the water)

j. Land cost: The pricing is flexible because you will receive a personalized and individualized package, which will include airport shuttles, all ground transportation, all meals, luxury accommodations, and boat transportation as well as relevant printed information and maps. Personal expense and air travel excluded.

Contact me now: Robert@customtours.co.nz with your dates and we will draft you a balanced itinerary, which includes the full America's Cup experience as well as your personal requirements and requests.

(PS - Make sure you check out our references and testimonials!)

MARUIA - NEW ZEALAND NATURE Co.

Dear Friends: Greetings from Nelson, New Zealand

Ben, the children and I have just returned from a holiday in Northern California. Highlights included visiting the Monterey Bay Aquarium, joining the Sleepy Hollow Fourth of July Parade (our kids loved the water fight with the local fire brigade) and the wonderful American hospitality shown to us along the way, despite difficulties with the New Zealand accent (that's sweets, not sweats)!

After heatwave temperatures of 105F+(40C+) in the USA, the frosty Nelson mornings are quite refreshing, but we are keeping warm while busily compiling the next Maruia Catalogue and sending out goodies to more than 70 countries.

Speaking of goodies.. .the 2003 New Zealand Nature Calendar arrived this week, fresh off the printing press. I'll never stop being amazed by the sheer splendour and wonderful diversity of our natural landscape. See it for yourself as the 2003 calendar is available now.

http://www.nznature.co.nz/shoplinks/cac.htm

(New Zealand Nature Co is based at 204 Hardy Street, Nelson, NZ. P0 Box 839. Tel. international 64-3 548 7227, fax 64-3 546 7222. USA free phone 1866 343 7872)

NZ WIZARD SEEKS CHARMS OF NORMAL LIFE - BBC News

New Zealand's weirdest government appointee is hanging up his pointy hat and retiring.

The country's official wizard, Ian Brackenbury Channell, who has been deemed a "living work of art", is going back to life as a normal person after taking up his office in Christchurch in the late 1970s.

Announcing his search for a successor, the wizard sings the praises of his job—one of which is its special tax-free status.

"1 think it's a wonderful job. It's not commercial. You are not left-wing or right-wing. It's not like it's an athletic job.

"I do the odd rain dance, but that's about it."

Candidates are required to be good speakers, believers in the "fun revolution", and have a good grasp of wizard cosmology.

Born in London, Mr. Channell took degrees in Sociology and Psychology at Leeds University before moving to Australia.

There he taught sociology at the University of New South Wales before first being appointed a wizard in the late 1960s.

He became Wizard of Christchurch in 1980, and a decade later was officially appointed New Zealand's first wizard by Mike Moore, prime minister at the time.

He is best known for his rain dances and upside down map, which puts New Zealand at the top of the world.

But the wizard's anti-establishment, intellectually imaginative views extend beyond cosmology.

"I'm too radical for any government grant as a tourist attraction," the wizard said.

"The tourist industry doesn't promote me anyway. I am too hard a concept for simple-minded tourists."

But even wizards must eat. This one has long been supported by this Australian fiancee, Alice Flett.

Once a suitable successor has been found, Mr. Charinell says he may consider moving to Australia.

But until one is, his wispy beard, crooked staff and fiery pronouncements will continue to amaze Christchurch's thrill-seeking visitors.

www.wizard.gen.nz/contents.htm

www.chch.planet.org.nz/wizard

BITS AND PIECES

Auckland is trying to reduce gridlock within its roading system and millions of dollars are being committed to a solution. However on the north shore, four pairs of dotterels are stopping the construction of an interchange. The birds, which are relatively rare, breed on the side of the interchange, and the Auckland Regional Council

opposes any work until new nests are made on the seaward side of the motorway, and the birds have been given 12 months to establish themselves there. The North Shore Council and Transit NZ are appealing the ARC ruling at a cost in excess of $100,000 which would delay the project for 18 months.

You might want to check out these two companies when planning your visit to NZ:
Travel Downunder, 10020 Main St. A, Box 142, Bellevue, WA 98004. ph. toll-free: 866-258-1629. www.travel-downunder.net

The other company is
Travel Experience New Zealand, 238 Irwin Rd., RD 4, Pukekohe, South Auckland. Ph: 64 (09) 236 3487 Email admin@travel-experience.co.nz

How about keeping an eye open for New Zealand country pubs for interesting and economical overnight stays? Most were built early last century or were reconstructed on the original sites.

KIWI PIGS

Two fun pig stories were told to us on one of our early visits to New Zealand. We visited friends on their farm at Otorohanga on the North Island, and June related these experiences she had had with their pigs. One is about one of their sows preparing a farrowing nest. She pulled one of June's sheets off the clothesline to finish off the nest. June watched the sheet being dragged off.

In the other story two pigs cooperated to get fruit off a tree on June's and Basil's property. One put its front feet up on the other and reached up and shook the tree with its snout until fruit fell to the ground.

LADY OF THE LAKE'S 90th BIRTHDAY

Ninety years ago the hull of one of Queenstown's most famous icons, the TSS Earnslaw, was quietly launched on Lake Wakatipu at Kingston.

The biggest ship built in New Zealand at the time, people travelled from Invercargill, Dunedin and Christchurch to cruise on the maiden voyage of the 52m coal-fired steamer on October 18, 1912. A public holiday was declared the following day so everyone could travel on a special trip to Glenorchy, and 500 people took advantage of this excursion.

Named after Mount Earnslaw, the highest mountain in the region, the TSS Earnslaw is believed to be the only vintage steamer still operating commercially in the southern hemisphere.

At risk of becoming scrap when demand declined, Fiordland Travel Ltd purchased the vessel in 1969, and after major refurbishment she re-entered service with a new lease of life as a tourist attraction.

The birthday celebrations will include jazz bands, period costume and champagne on a special commemorative cruise on 18 October 2002, which will link up with another local Wakatipu icon, the Kingston Flyer.

LAUNCHING THE FIRST NEW i-SITE

The Minister of Tourism, Mark Burton, un- veiled the first i-SITE, the new visitor information logo, at the Taupo Visitor Information Centre recently.

Visitors can use i-SITES to find reliable information about the place they are visiting. The new branding incorporates the internationally recognised letter i for information and the stylised silver fern used by Tourism New Zealand in its international marketing.

HELP YOUR FELLOW KIWIPHILES!

Some of you must have been in NZ during the last year or so. Please send along your notes, your memories, your suggestions to help others in their planning. THANKS.

KIWIphile FILE

Published quarterly by Eva Trapani

E-mail: KiwiET1@aol.corn

Copyright 2002 by Eva Trapani