Volume XVIII, No. 1

SEPTEMBER 2005

CANOES (from TeAra)

Matawhaorua - The arrival of the Polynesian navigator Kupe in the Marawhaorua canoe is legendary in the history of Nga Puhi.

Guided by light reflected from the mountain Te Ramaroa, Kupe entered Hokianga Harbour. The traditions say that Kupe was so awestruck by the strength of the light that he named the harbour Te Puna-o-te-ao-marama (spring of the world of light). The light struck the northern shore of the Hokianga, which he named Te Pouahi (the posts of fire).

Kohukohu, Te Pouahi and Whanui were Kupe’s first settlements on the northern shores of the harbour. Koutu, Pakanae and Whirinaki were his settlements on the northern side. When he returned to Hawaiki he said, ‘Ka hoki ahau? B kore ahau e hokianga mai!’ (Shall I return? I shall never return!), hence the name Te Hokianga-a-Kupe (the great returning place of Kupe).

Ngatokimatawhaorua and Mamari In Hawaiki, Kupe’s canoe was re-adzed and named Ngatokimatawbaorua (‘nga toki” means ‘the adzcs’). Captained by Nukutawhiti, the refurbished canoe returned to Hokianga, accompanied by Ruanui and his canoe Mamari.

The captains landed and established their settlements. Nukutawhiti completed his first, but waited for Ruanui so that they could conduct their dedication rites together. However, when Ruanui finished building his houses of learning he ordered his priests to begin consecrating them without waiting for Nukutawhiti. The priests chanted incantations to compel a huge whale to enter the harbour and beach itself as a sacrifice.

When be realized this, Nukutawhiti ordered his priests to perform chants to send the whale back toward the open sea. Ruanui’s prayers finally ran

out and the crew of the Mamari had to leave the Hokianga. This is remembered in the name Hokianga whakapau-karakia (Hokianga where incantations were exhausted).

Mataatua - Several accounts tell how the Mataatua canoe arrived in the north. Traditions from the Bay of Plenty say that the ancestor Puhi sailed the Mataatua northward from Whakatane to Takou Bay after a dispute with his brother, Toroa. Some northern accounts say that the Mataatua actually rounded Cape Reinga before sailing south along the west coast and landing in the Hokianga Harbour. From here it was said to be dragged overland to Kerikeri before sailing to Takou Bay.

Others claim the canoe was carried across the Auckland isthmus before sailing northward along the coast to Hokianga. The earliest Nga Puhi account says that the Mataatua actually landed in the north first and went to the Bay of Plenty some time later.

Puhi, Te Wahineiti and Miru are also said to have been leaders of the Mataatua. Miru is believed to have circumnavigated the North Island in this canoe. Both Nga Pahi and the Bay of Plenty tribes agree that the Mataatua rests at Takou Bay. A reunion was held by both groups at the Bay of Islands in 1986.

ROUTEBURN NAMED ONE OF TOP TEN WORLD HIKES (Fairfax New Zealand Ltd)

Fiordland’s Routeburn Track has been named as one of the top ten hikes in the world by National Geographic Adventure Magazine.

The track is joined on the list by the likes of the Mt. Everest Base Camp Trek in Nepal and the trek up Tanzania’s famous Mt Kilimanjaro.

In the magazine, which has a readership of almost three million people worldwide, the 32km, two to three day track was described by author Peter

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Potterfield as an epic trip through and over some of New Zealand's conservation jewels.

"The Routeburn... . is less crowded than its world-famous neighbour, the Milford Track, and the scenic payoffs along the Routeburn's alpine stretches far surpass those of the lower, often cloudier Milford," he writes in the May edition.

Department of Conservation Wakatipu area manager Greg Lind said it was welcome recognition for a track that lived in the shadow of the Milford.

"You're going through some of the best red beech and right over an alpine crossing. There's a superb range of scenery and trekking opportunity," he said.

DOC staff encountered many people who had traveled to New Zealand specifically to walk the Routeburn.

The track, which is trodden by about 13,000 people each year, was also incredibly popular with day walkers, Mr. Lind said.

The Routeburn is accompanied in the list by the John Muir Trail (California), Kalalau Trail (Hawaii), McGonagall Pass (Alaska), Fitz Roy Grand Tour (Argentina), Kungsleden (Sweden), Mt. Everest Base Camp Trek (Nepal), Mt. Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) and Shackleton Crossing (South Georgia Island).

The Southland Times

GREENS TACKLE CANNABIS

After years of lobbying, Green MP Nandor Tanchos is finally submitting a bill to Parliament that decriminalises cannabis. At the moment, those caught with cannabis can get a criminal record, a $500 fme and/or three months in jail, but the new bill proposes $100 fines and no criminal record for people caught growing or using small amounts. All profits would go towards drug education. Under-18s caught with cannabis would be fined and referred to an approved drug educator, while anyone caught smoking or growing cannabis within lOOm of a school or other area mostly used by children would be fined $500.

TINY NEW ZEALAND'S BIG ROLE IN

RESTORATIVE JUSTICE

(Christian Science Monitor)

New Zealanders are generally an unassuming bunch who've distanced themselves from the more belligerent policies of their close cousins, the Australians, and pride themselves on being low-key. But if they were the crowing sort, they could crow modestly about at least two aspects of their

domestic policy: the commitment of the white majority to make serious amends to the indigenous Maoris, now just 15 percent of New Zealanders; and the country's innovative experimentation with "restorative" approaches to criminal justice.

One good example of the changing policies is the experience of the family of Mike Roberts, a successful news anchor on national TV. Mr. Roberts strongly self-identifies as a Maori and has, by his own account, "about one-third" Maori blood, but he can't speak much Maori at all. His father had grown up speaking Maori - until at 14, he was sent to a residential school where Maori was forbidden. He almost completely lost his facility with the tongue. "That's one of my dad's biggest regrets," Roberts says.

Then in 1986, a high-level tribunal ruled that the Maori language certainly constituted one of the Maori "treasures" that the British had promised to protect in the seminal 1840 Treaty of Waitangi. The tribunal recommended several steps the government should take to revive the language and culture, including supporting Maori-language schools, as well as Maori broadcasting.

Maori radio stations have operated locally for some years and a nationwide Maori TV station started up just last year. Roberts's kids, ages 5 and 3, have both been to total-immersion Maori-language preschool programs. Does he think that Maori language and culture will survive in New Zealand?

"If you'd asked me 10 years ago, I would have said no. Now, I'm more optimistic. I think it will."

Signs abound of the commitment that the government and other major national institutions have made to respecting and strengthening Maori language and culture. Many government publications and websites are bilingual. Schools and businesses commission Maori-themed decorations and stage Maori-style ceremonies for key rites of passage. Government employees undergo mandatory training in the meaning of the Treaty of Waitangi. And it's not only Maori language and culture being saved: Steps have also been taken to restore some Maori land and fishing rights.

Maori culture has also been an influence in the use of New Zealand's restorative-justice processes to supplement and sometimes replace the essentially "retributive" processes of the traditional Western-style justice system.

Judge Fred McElrea sits on the District Court bench here in Auckland-home to a quarter of the

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nation's 4 million people and to one of its fullest crime dockets. One of Mr. McElrea's former colleagues on the Youth Court, Judge Michael Brown, a Maori, pioneered the Family Group Conference (FGC) method that the Youth Court now uses in place of the more formal criminal-court proceedings.

In a typical FGC, the offender and the victim - and their families - sit with respected community elders in a consultative circle in which the victim can fully express his or her pain and needs for reparation. The group then works to reach agreement on a plan whereby the offender comes to understand the seriousness of the offense and acknowledges this by making some reparation to the victim. This plan is reported to the court system, and all the FGC participants take some responsibility for monitoring follow-through.

In 1993 McElrea started campaigning for the FGC model to be used in adult cases, too. A recent Ministry of Justice evaluation of a one-year pilot project in which 539 adult cases were referred to FGCs found that most victims were very happy with the process. Also, re-offending rates for cases involving more violent crimes and more hardened offenders were noticeably lower in cases referred to FGCs.

"I find this exciting," McElrea said, "Apparently, the conferences managed to 'get through' to them in ways that the court system had not."

Now McElrea and his colleagues plan to continue and expand their use of FGC. They've kept in touch with parallel efforts elsewhere, including some that have also been informed by the cultural wisdom of indigenous peoples. McElrea also noted recent EU directives mandating that all EU countries make restorative-justice systems available by 2008.

But New Zealand is definitely recognized as a leader in this field - as it also is in the attempt to make amends with its indigenous people. Not bad for an unassuming country of just 4 million people.

RESTORED GALLIPOLI FILM

Peter Jackson's restored version of the only film taken of the Anzacs at Gallipoli in 1915 will have its New Zealand premiere at a documentary film festival in Auckland and Wellington next month.

The film "Heroes of Gallipoli" screens at the DOCNZ Documentary Film Festival in Auckland from September 15 and in Wellington from September 29.

Jackson, a World War I buff, approached the Australian War Memorial two years ago to see if technology developed by Weta Digital could be used to restore archival film.

The 20 minute film included Wellington Battalion soldiers. The original nitrate film was destroyed in 1967, and prints were scratched, fuzzy and low in contrast.

NEW ZEALAND FLAG - Editorial in KIWINEWS

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BEAUTY ON BACK ROADS

Journeying down back roads often leads to some of the best unspoilt spots in this country.

One such avenue of delight is Te Anga Rd, which continues past the well-known Waitomo Caves and can be followed round both sides of the Kawhia Harbour.

A 30-minute drive from Waitomo Valley brings you to the picturesque Mangapohue Natural Bridge, signposted by the Automobile Association.

An easy five-minute walk through a small clump of native bush is a gorge covered by a huge limestone double natural bridge.

The well-kept track along the Manapohue Stream leads over footbridges until subtle light changes through the bridge's keyhole indicate the huge arch to come.

Many years ago the arch would have been a cave, but erosion has left the roof standing on its own.

The path takes you over the 15-metre high lower bridge, from where the stalactites lining the 45-metre high second tier are clearly visible.

Continue round to the farmland on the other side, where the limestone formations characteristic of the valley are evident.

Picnic tables are provided there.

To get back to the carpark, a route is marked around the side of the hill.

Just five kilometers further on Te Anga Rd is the first view of the spectacular Marokopa Falls.

From a roadside platform on the left-hand verge you can see the quiet flow of the Marokopa River plunge 36 metres in a thundering torrent over greywacke bluffs.

This waterfall is impressive and well worth the effort of stopping.

A few hundred metres below the platform is a carpark for the steep walk through thick native bush to two viewing platforms at the bottom of the falls.

The return walk takes about 25 minutes.

Walking down you notice the seats, which are handy for a rest on the way back up.

The track divides in two halfway down.

An easier vantage point is the higher track, as the lower has many steps.

Spray is blown from the falls in a fine mist and the sight of the cascading water would lure many a photographer.

Marokopa is an excellent spot for fishing, mainly surf-casting. The main kahawai run is between January and May.

Whitebait nets line the roadside during the season and if the numbers of locals in the river is anything to go by, the source must be abundant.

Many farmers along the roads in the Waitomo Valley take in guests. Most advertise at their gates that rooms are to let.

The old Marokopa School has been converted into a camping ground.

Black sand blankets the river mouth, but at low tide the walk from the end of the road to the sea is worthwhile.

An hour further from Te Anga is Kawbia, a beautiful seaside resort.

The drive around the harbour is a treat at high or low tide, but do not drive too fast, or you may miss something.

The small village of Te Waitere on the southern side of the harbour is the site of one of the country's first missions.

A Wesleyan Mission was established there in 1835 and a lemon tree planted then at the end of the village still bears fruit.

Kawhia is a dead end. There is no through road, and the locals are thankful because only people who want to go to Kawhia get there.

The seaside town's population explodes over summer, with the many baches and cabins filling along with the camping grounds.

Aches and pains can be soothed away in the poois of hot water on Ocean Beach at low tide.

Maketu Marae is impressive but permission should be sought before venturing on to the Maori land.

Kawhia is the final resting place of the Tainui canoe which brought Maon migrants to New Zealand more than 600 years ago.

Two stakes mark its burial place on the marae.

A pohutukawa tree at the town end of Piu Beach is sacred as it is believed to be either the original tree which sheltered Tainui's anchorage, or an offshoot.

Kawhia is a leisurely hour and a half drive from Hamilton on State Highway 31 which winds through the hills past Pirongia.

Most information on walks in the area can be picked up at the Waitomo Museum.

From WYSIWYG NEWS -by Brian Harmer

(Copyright by Brian Harmer, reprinted by permission)

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One of the odd little pleasures of doing this is to have readers from far distant places pop out of the shrubbery and pay a visit when they pass through this town. This week, John from California visited and we were able to have a coffee together in a crowded and noisy café on campus.

Despite the clatter of the surroundings, it was a great pleasure to meet one of my readers. I hope others will follow the lead, and make contact.

Yesterday Mary and I flew to Christchurch to mark a significant birthday for her brother. Since it was the last weekend of the school holidays, we had to take what flights we could get, so this was an early morning journey on an ATR 72. It may be slower than the Boeing, but I find them comfortable with good leg room, and remarkably stable even over that WLG - CHC leg which is notorious for its turbulence.

It was a clear day anyway, though the sun was barely over the horizon, and so the views over the alps were spectacular indeed. As we came in over the Northern outskirts of the Garden City, we noted that the grass appeared less green than usual... from our altitude, a sort of grey green colour. The closer we got to touchdown, the more obvious it became that we were seeing a fairly strong and widespread frost.

Sure enough, as we emerged onto the tarmac we were hit simultaneously by the brilliant clarity of a cloudless Canterbury morning, and the sharp bite cold of a Canterbury frost. I understood why the airline staff whose job it was to stand on the tarmac to ensure that we went along the designated path to the terminal building looked so miserable and had gritted teeth. They were hypothermic.

Brother-in-law was inside waiting for us and for his son who was on the same flight, and then took us southwards to his home in Rolleston, "town of the future" according to its entrance billboards.

The family gathering was a very congenial occasion indeed, with several siblings and offspring to swell the numbers, and to gradually reduce the need for the diesel oil burner that did such a great job throughout the weekend. Star of the show was the five-month-old granddaughter whose wide-eyed curiosity about the world and all these strangers won hearts and thawed reserve even quicker than the bright sun disposing of the frost.

Good food, good wine, and good company may not be every physician's prescription for longevity, but in my book they are way ahead of whatever is second-best. At the end of the day's festivities Mary and I retired to our motel at nearby Weedons. This was a rather

old-fashioned affair that gave the impression of having been built for a different purpose. Perhaps it was a ministry of works or perhaps defence force hostel in the fifties. It had all the essentials, however, even if the electric fan heater made more noise than the engine room ventilation system on the Cook Strait ferries.

The sky grew steadily blacker, and glittering stars told us that it was even colder out there than here in the rapidly falling temperature of a night on the Canterbury Plains. Periodically, a large jet aircraft would pass overhead on final approach to Harewood, or a train would clang and rumble by on the track just beyond the fence. Out front, the rough chip seal of SH1 made every passing car or truck so much louder in the otherwise still night.

Blessed oblivion until next morning, at which time I became aware once more of the deep chill outside the bed covers. Nevertheless it was necessary to get breakfast and be ready for Sister-in-law who had kindly insisted on providing transport to the airport. No frost this morning, but still cold by Wellington standards.

An innocent blue sky and total lack of wind ensured a clear view across the plains to the sharply etched peaks and ridges of the Southern Alps. Another ATR took us north, and to my great pleasure it took a comparatively low altitude inland route from Christchurch along the coast beside the Seaward Kaikouras to finally turn toward Wellington at Cape Campbell.

Every ridge, every snow-covered bush was visible in sharp detail. Views both near and far were spectacular beyond any words of mine to do them justice. Over the southern parts of the Cook Strait, the sea surface ceased to look placid and changed colour to a dark green with marching armies of white wave tops. A large trawler in the act of bringing in its net amidst swirling seagulls passed beneath. Soon after wards, the flaps were lowered and the wheels came down and Wellington's runway smacked us neatly on the wheels and we were home once more.

DAVID LANGE: 1942 - 2005

Former Prime Minister David Lange passed away in August 2005.

The 63-year-old died peacefully with his brother Peter and son Roy at his bedside. His wife Margaret Pope, quickly joined them at Auckland's Middlemore Hospital after hearing the news.

David Lange had long been battling diabetes and kidney failure, recently losing his lower right leg to gangrene.

He remained characteristically positive after being admitted to hospital several weeks ago.

Lange led a Labour Government from 1984 until his resignation in 1989 which radically changed social, political and economic life in New Zealand, with a flood of free-market reforms and the introduction of the country's ban on nuclear-powered ships.

He created headlines when he debated nuclear weapons with American evangelist Jerry Falwell at Britain's Oxford Union, telling an interjector: "Hold your breath just a moment. I can smell the uranium on it."

But on receiving in 2003 the country's highest royal honour, membership of the Order of NZ, which is limited to 20 living people, Mr. Lange said people would come to regard his term as "fleeting, transient ... On the wallpaper of history .I'm a flyspeck".

He is succeeded by his wife and four children.

GRIDLEY - The Kiwi capital of the U.S.A.

Don't bother looking for the sign; some say it was flattened by a car a few years ago. But this wide spot (population 5,550) on Highway 99, about 50 miles north of Sacramento, California, is The Kiwi Capital of the U.S.A. as well as the sister city of Te Puke, New Zealand, which happens to be The Kiwifruit Capital of the World.

put in place. The Americans and New Zealanders eventually shook hands and made up. U.S. consumers embraced the fuzzy fruit, and Gridley, awash in kiwi vines, prospered once again.

Maybe some future kiwi conquests will be credited to Gary LaFrancis, a businessman married to Lindy LaFrancis, executive director of the California KiwiFruit Commission. An amateur chef, he's in the midst of a multiyear self-assigned project to rewrite the 20-year-old "California KiwiFruit Cookbook." He began the overhaul after he noticed it was heavy on desserts, with recipes incorporating gobs of cream and including unfortunate directions like: "place ingredients in Veg-a-Matic." Recalls LaFrancis: "I thought I'd come up with some more contemporary and healthful kiwi recipes," and he has. More than 100, in fact, including kiwi pizza (a crust of baked cookie dough covered with kiwis and other sliced fruit), kiwi tomato salad, kiwi with melon and prosciutto, and the unexpectedly delicious steak a Ia kiwi. For the latter, he marinates sirloin steak in crushed kiwis. Strangely, mate, it works.

MAORI ART EXHIBIT OPENS

IN SAN FRANCISCO

A canoe of Maori warriors from New Zealand paddle past a pier and toward shore at Aquatic Park at dawn in San Francisco, Thursday, August 4, 2005. The Maori, who were met by Native American Ohlone tribe members, made the visit to kick off the opening of one of the largest collections of Maori art to be shown in the U.S. at San Francisco's Yerba Buena Center for the Arts and to encourage Americans to visit the Pacific island nation.

They emerged from the early morning fog in a wooden canoe, chanting, beating their chests, sticking out their tongues and striking fierce poses in traditional Maori fashion to kick off one of the largest exhibits of New Zealand native art ever shown in the United States.

"A lot of people don't know about Maori culture. We're giving America a chance to see it and be part of it," said Stan Conrad, captain of the 50-foot, hand-carved canoe known as a waka, which is built from a single kauri tree log.

The collection features about 300 pieces of artwork, including wood carvings, clay sculptures, wall hangings, woven bags, painted masks and photo graphs of body tattooing called moko.

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The works are made mostly from natural materials such as stone, wood, bone, abalone shells and feathers.

"What you see are art forms emerging from the natural environment," said Darcy Nicholas, a Maori artist and the exhibit's creative director. "It's really closely linked to nature. It comes from a very ancient past."

The exhibit's highlight is a collection of traditional Maori cloaks, known as kakahu, which are very rarely displayed outside New Zealand. Kakahu are hand-woven from the flax plant, colored with natural dye and decorated with feathers from native birds, often taking months to complete.

After the show closes in San Francisco on August 14, it moves to Willamette University's Hallie Ford Museum of Art in Salem, Ore., in September; the University of Washington's Burke Museum of Natural History & Culture in Seattle in February; and the Museum at Warm Springs in central Oregon in June.

ALL BLACKS TAME LIONS -

by Stephen Mangum

New Zealand's All Blacks rugby team are off to a 5-1 start and appear to be stronger than last year's squad which was rated #1 in the world. Their biggest challenge this year appears to be the resurgent South African Springboks.

The Men in Black opened the season on June 10 in Auckland with a 91-0 blowout win over Fiji. Rookie winger Siliveni Sivivatu ran in four tries to lead the scoring.

Next up was the historic Lions tour featuring the best players of Britain and Ireland. The northerners were supported by a huge staff which even included a spinmeister who apparently knew very little, if any thing about rugby. A Balmy Army of 25,000 fans followed the team throughout the tour.

The Lions won all their matches against various NZ provincial teams leading up to the three test with the All Blacks. The local squads all played well against the visitors.

On June 11 the New Zealand Maori team beat the Lions 19-13 in a hard-fought match at Waikato. It was their first win over the touring Lions in eight attempts since 1930. Luke McAlister and Leon McDonald led the Maoris to victory.

The All Blacks dominated the Lions to win the first test match 21-3 on June 25 in Christchurch. The game was played in a heavy rainstorm. Lions captain Brian O'Driscoll suffered a separated shoulder injury one minute in and was lost for the tour.

Flyhalf Daniel Carter led the way for the All Blacks who put in a furious defensive effort.

The following Saturday in Wellington New Zealand put on a rugby clinic in demolishing the Lions 48-18. Once again Daniel Carter led the way with a huge 33 points scored. Tana Umaga led the defense as they manhandled the visitors.

The Lions then staggered north to Auckland for the final test. The All Blacks substituted liberally still won 38-19 at Eden Park.

All in all it was one of the great all-time series wins for the All Blacks and confirmed their reputation as the most respected team in world rugby.

After a break of several weeks New Zealand opened the Tn-Nations series vs South Africa at Cape town. The unbeaten season came to an end as the Springboks pulled out a close 22-16 win. South Africa played outstanding defense and won the match on a length of the field intercepted pass.

Next up the All Blacks flew to Sydney to face off with the Australian Wallabies on August 13. This time the boys were back in the groove as they retained the Bledisloe Cup with a decisive 30-13 win. Unfortunately Daniel Carter suffered a broken leg and is probably out for the year.

Right now South Africa is in the driver's seat at 3 wins no losses in the Tn-Nations. New Zealand is 1-1 and must beat both of their rivals in New Zealand to challenge the Springboks for the title.

Following the Tn-Nations the boys will play in selected NPC games, then regroup for the much- awaited Grand Slam Tour in November to England, Scotland, Wales, and Ireland.

In other news South Africa defeated Australia 24-20 in the title match of the World Under-21 tourn ament played in Argentina. New Zealand took third place with a 47-21 win over France.

Kiwiphiles: Until next time, play on!!

NORMAN'S CONQUEST - Fairfax New Zealand

Waipu still celebrates the charismatic Scottish preacher who dragged his 900-strong flock from Nova Scotia 150 years ago.

"The long climb up Brynderwyn Hill on the southern side never really prepares the traveler for what waits at the crest", wrote Fiona Kidman. "For there the blue floor of the world is stretched beneath you."

You can see this view every day of your life and not once will it fail to impress. Just below lie the green hills, tucked in by a vast cobalt sea. Off on the horizon, rest the Whangarei Heads, majestic and proud.

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The tendency is to want to carry on as fast as you can, as if trying to catch the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

After the long drive from Auckland and with Whangarei looming just ahead, it's understandable. But it would be wise to wait. And take a step back in time.

Perhaps few New Zealand villages embrace their past so heartily as the tiny settlement of Waipu, 10 minutes from the Brynderwyn crest and just off SH1. It is the Gaelic sign as you drive into town that suggests something unusual. "Ceud mile failte," it reads. A hundred thousand welcomes.

Waipu is no more than a collection of shops, a small museum, the local pub, church and a tea-room or two. There's not much to it and the inclination is to turn back.

But the little gold plaques arouse interest. There is the large mural of the Scottish bagpiper on the butchery wall. And the little park on the corner of Nova Scotia Drive, oddly named Cape Breton.

You begin to wonder how it all ties in. first Scotland and now Canada, Drop into the Waipu Heritage Centre and staff happily enlighten you. Operated by the Waipu Centennial Trust Board, the museum operned its doors in 1953 as a memorial to the pioneers who settled the area in 1853. More than 50 years later, they are still telling their tale.

From the play The Margaret to dozens of historical accounts and Kidman's The Book of Secrets, the tale of the Rev Norman McLeod has been told many times. Born in 1780, he and his flock fled the troubled Scottish Highlands in 1817. They settled along Canada's Atlantic seaboard, where they lived for 35 years till McLeod decided it was time to move on.

Stern and authoritarian, MeLeod was not a man to oppose. In 1851, the first of half a dozen ships made the journey to the bottom of the world. By 1860, when the last ship arrived in New Zealand, 900 Scottish and Nova Scotia-born immigrants had become pioneers once more.

The settlers were happy in their new home, reports the Heritage Centre. "Compared to Scotland and Nova Scotia, Waipu was a land of great opportunity."

This might be true - potato blight and suc cessive crop failures had led to tough times in their final years in Canada - but many speculate that McLeod had other reasons for wanting to go.

The reverend, they say, wanted his congregation in a place where he could exert absolute and total control.

Waipu, remote and isolated, was the perfect spot.

The "Normanites" did as they were told. Those who disobeyed, says Kidman, "had to live a life of secrets". She ought to know - she lived there as a teenager, among their descendants. "When I left, their stories haunted me for years."

The fictional account she went on to write caused controversy because some of the "characters turned out to be too close for comfort", but it did put modern-day Waipu on the map. "We have many people come here simply because they have read the book", says Betty Powell, the museum's genealogist.

The museum, bursting with old photographs, documents and artifacts relating to the migrations and life in 19th century Waipu, is the heart of this village. Visit the little white church erected by the Normanites in 1871. Check out the old manse the locals are work ing to restore. View the Lionheart Memorial dedicated to the pioneers and war dead.

Follow the heritage trail into the bills, explore the magnificent Waipu caves or trek the many designated walks and pathways. Stroll along the stretches of sandy white beach, jump into the surf or observe New Zealand dotterels and the almost extinct fairy tern at the wildlife refuge out of town.

And just when you think you might want to get back on the main highway and chase the pot of gold across the bay, you pass by the quiet little ceme tary on the side of the road. Here McLeod was laid to rest in 1866.

Where "an iron railing like a palisade was placed around the graves of McLeod and Mary (his wife) to keep them safe", writes Kidman. "Others said it was to stop McLeod from getting out."

KlWlphile FILE

Published quarterly by Eva Trapani

E-mail: KiwiET1@aol.com

See past issues at www.kiwiphile.org

Copyright 2005 by Eva Trapani

For subscriptions write to Eva Trapani. Send a check for $10.00 for one year (4 issues), $18 for 2

years, $25 for 3 years. If you live in Canada send $12 per year; in other countries $18 per year.

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