Volume 20, No. 1

SEPTEMBER 2006

TAKE A TASTE OF NORTHLAND - XtraMSN

Northland has launched its first food and wine trail, with plenty of places for visitors to stop and refuel as they tour the region through the winter months.

The trail features 62 food and wine experiences to be found throughout New Zealand's north, and lists everything from farm gate sales, chocolate factories, cheese producers and local farmers' markets.

As temperatures drop nothing can warm the heart and soothe the soul more than some lovingly crafted food. Imagine a sweet fig and salty prosciutto salad washed down with a glass of local wine; or organic bread with a slab of cheese and a liberal slather of green tomato chutney.

Northland is renowned for its balmy all year round temperatures. There's an abundance of produce which thrives in the region and most of it can't be found in other parts of the country during winter. In the area you'll find everything from berries and citms to persimmons and plums adding to the local flavour. The area is renowned for the taste of its specialty meats and cheeses, relishes and chutneys, and quality coffee.

Farmers' markets are found throughout the area from just north of Auckland, all the way to the far north. The concept of selling quality produce and fresh, locally made products directly to the public has been around the north since 1997.

That year Whangarei-based tomato grower Murray Bums and Hokianga grower Rob Bradley started the Whangarei Farmers' Market. The Bay of Island market, held in Kerikeri every Sunday, is currently the largest of its type in the country.

The north is well known for its burgeoning wine industry and chardonnays and pinot gris, along with shiraz, are becoming highly regarded. The food and wine trail features six of Northland's wineries,

offering tastings to accompany regional food.

Rather than having to follow a particular route, Northland's potential gastro-tounsts can tailor the flexible food and wine trail to suit themselves. The complimentary Northland Food & Wine Trail maps list all recommended stops along the region's foodie path and are available at i-Sites throughout Northland or ordered through www.northlandnz.com.

CHANGE FOR THE BETTER - 31 July 2006

(Reserve Bank of New Zealand)

From 31 July 2006 the current 50, 20, and 10 cent coins will be replaced with smaller and lighter new coins, and the 5 cent coin will be taken out of circulation.

The new coins will retain the same designs. The new 10 cent coin will be copper coloured. The $1 and $2 coins will be unchanged.

There will be a transition period of three months, during which both old and new coins can be used. However, from 1 November 2006 you won't be able to use the old coins, but the Reserve Bank in Wellington will always accept them.

If you have a lot of silver coins, now would be a good time to spend or bank them. Alternatively, you might like to donate them to a charity.

Why are the coins changing? New Zealand's old silver coins are among the heaviest in the world. The 20 and 50 cent coins are inconvenient in people's wallets and pockets. As the new coins are lighter, it will be much easier to carry them about and to use them. The new coins will be a lot easier to manage for people involved in handling coins.

Will I recognize the new coins? The new coins will be easy to recognize and tell apart --- they will retain the same designs. They will simply be smaller and lighter,

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smaller and lighter, and the 10 cent coin will be copper coloured.

Why do other countries have very low deomination coins? Countries with low value coins generally have state and local consumption taxes which are added to the advertised prices of goods and services. Consequently, almost every cash transaction requires the exchange of very low denomination coins. In New Zealand, GST is almost always incorporated in the displayed price of products. Also, the use of electronic methods of making payments is more com mon in New Zealand than in most other countries.

Low denomination coins are unpopular in several developed countries. Finland has chosen not to issue 1 and 2 eurocent coins. Major retail organizations, banks and consumer organizations in the Netherlands have voluntarily agreed, that all pricing should be in 5 eurocent intervals. A recent survey in the United Kingdom indicated that about 5 million people there regularly throw away low value coins. If Europe and the UK opted for lowest value coins of 5 eurocents and five pennies respectively these would be of similar value to a New Zealand 10 cent coin.

For more information, please visit www.newcoins.govt.nz

FIGHT FOR ORGANIC FLOUR IN FOLATE DEBATE -NewstalkZB

The Green Party wants organic flour to be exempt, if the Government decides to add folate to bread.

Submissions on a Food Safety Authority's proposal to have folate added to all flour closed yesterday. It is believed the vitamin reduces the number of babies being born with spina bifida.

Health and Safe Food spokeswoman Sue Kedgley, says while the Greens support the additive, consumers should still have a choice. She says exemp ting organic flour would mean non-folate fortified flour could still be bought.

Ms Kedgley says it is also important that folate-fortifled products are clearly labelled and warn that the additive could mask any vitamin B12 deficiency.

KIWI ROCKS!

A study in New Zealand found that eating kiwi daily, along with increased physical activity, led to an increase in the repair of damaged DNA. It has

also been reported that kiwi can help with blood clotting and may offer protection from strokes. There's a U.S. kiwifruit tour going on now.

POWER UP! HITS THE ROAD

Come meet the new SuperFruit when a team of kiwi crusaders, along with real, live kiwifruit growers from New Zealand comes your way this sunimer. The Power UP! Road show brings kiwi fun for the whole family to 10 North American cities in July and August.

Look for the Powered UP! Toyota 4-Runners at local grocery stores and community events in Atlanta, GA; Boston, MA, Chicago, IL; Houston, TX; Seattle, WA; Portland, OR; San Francisco, CA; Washington, DC; Vancouver, BC; and Toronto, ON.

The Power UP! Team will have free green and gold kiwifruit samples, kiwi giveaways, temporary tattoos for the kids, our popular Spife utensils, and they will share more information on ZESPRI Kiwifruit's SuperFood status.

THE DOTSON'S NEW ZEALAND TRIP 06 -

Ginger and Doug Dotson

We really loved New Zealand in mid-April to mid-May this year. It's autumn there with liquid ambers glowing red and many yellow trees on the South Island, but still summery, 'even in Christchurch-HOT?!

We rented our car at McDonald's in Christchurch, as they've given excellent service to us for 15 years! In our month visit we usually drive 3,000 kms or about 1,875 miles. We would leave the car in Auckland. It's possible to go to NZ and not hike at all. Doug is living proof, plus we had a wonderful time. We often use the car to explore and to take alternate roads.

We revisited Oamaru with delicious White House Cheese Factory and penguins. At 2 pm the solitary Yellow Eye Penguins begin to come ashore and climb steep bluffs to their burrows near the view ing station. Penguins mate for life in most cases. An excellent and comfortable seating area is available for watching little Blue Penguins come ashore. Penguin breeding burrows, and a museum/gift shop are easy to find where rail track goes toward the sea below the bluffs. Blue Penguins arrive in "rafts" of 30 or so birds after sundown, and tickets for watching are available at museum.

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It was Queenstown for lunch, passing beautiful lakes like Wanaka, to Te Anau, anticipating a tour into Milford Sound. Every time we've visited NZ for 30 years avalanches have turned us away. Our small van tour was excellent! While in Milford Sound on the boat, it rained about 50% of the voyage. Our compensation was that Milford was bedecked with a bazillion waterfalls! Dazzling! The second half of the voyage was overcast, but good for photos. The following day was sunny and mild, so we took a picnic lunch and DROVE OURSELVES to Milford Sound and enjoyed lunch with Mitre Peak across the bay.

We also toured Doubtful Sound. In the middle of our bus / boat / bus trip was a tour through the hydroelectric plant with 8 generators. They're upgrading to larger models since reconstructing other parts of the system was just completed. Fascinating!

Doubtful Sound is much larger than Milford and well worth the trip to us. Again it rained 50% of the tour with billions of waterfalls of all sizes. Over cast skies allowed for photos when returning to dock. Doubtful is wider and longer and a preserve for animals. Each tour voyage took us out to the ocean and had commentators for dolphins, sea lions, glacial features, etc. of interest. Doubtful is a more expensive tour, but both tours last a day. On each, the rides from Te Anau to the water are very different and full of scenic panoramas. Helicopter rides to pocket glaciers near peaks are available if weather allows. We enjoyed both tours very much.

We drove to Haast, a quiet clearing in the rainforest. Interesting places lie south and new houses appear everywhere. Weather was mild and warm, even at night, although Christchurch was having cold rain. It continued warm for the rest of the West Coast, much to our delight. Haast was partly closed as winter tourists hadn't arrived yet. We marveled at the antlers on two Wapiti elk in a meadow beside a helicopter haven. Driving north we found my favorites-fern trees and forests so thick that ferns blanketed the rock cuts on the steep hillsides beside the road, with a magnificent view of the sea now and then. At Fox Glacier a soaking rain was falling again, so we drove on to Franz Josef Glacier.

Franz Josef Glacier is a tour and backpacker favorite, along with private tourists. When rain abated, we booked a helicopter flight to Fox Glacier, the back of Mt Cook and Franz Josef Glaciers. We deplaned at Fox Glacier and took wonderful photos. We'd never seen Mt Cook before, as it was always draped in clouds on the eastern side near Twizel. The sun was brilliant

off the snow. Perfect! After landing, we drove to the toe of both Fox and Franz Josef glaciers, finding tree ferns or other vegetation almost into the ice on the moraines. Beautiful scenes are along the local dirt roads in foothills. Valleys are dairy and cattle stations with some Lucerne (alfalfa) farms. Hokitika was a large town. We had just missed their annual Native Foods celebration (eating insects and plants). Nephrite jade pebbles lay everywhere on the beaches.

Greymouth is terminus of the Alpine Rail tour. The highway allows a trip of a few hours between Christchurch and Greymouth on a Friday afternoon jaunt for camping, fishing, or trekking in a milder climate. Greymouth is a city with all the amenities. There were more people and tours everywhere north of Greymouth, on the West Coast. We found native palm trees by limestone bluffs, and many more vacation homes and little "baches" at the shore or in the rainforests next to the sea.

We drove to Richmond (near Nelson) on another sunny day. Our friends are active in Nelson's Model Railroad Club, and have a ride with 3 tracks and a lake with a packet for young and old to ride. Richmond is another lively town recently discovered by developers. It now has raspberry and marionberry farms, apple and pear orchards, vegetable farms and dairies within the town, but not for long, sadly. Marl borough, where Nelson is located, is internationally renowned for wines, but we love the apples at Seddon, as well.

We crossed from Picton to Wellington on a fiat sea, staying at Porirua, another fast-expanding area. In 20 years New Zealand's population has doubled from 2 million to 4 million in a country roughly the size of California, mostly due to cities' building outward. We can only hope Eco Tourism saves the beautiful places not yet overrun with gorse and people and possums!

Napier is truly proud of its make-over to former Art Deco grandness. It's lovely! Possum products sell well there as in South Island. A music machine in the main city park, and rows of Norfolk pines between houses/hotels and beach make a picturesque setting.

Taupo is always bustling with its students and tourism. Site of the largest North Island lake, geothermal fields developed for electricity generation, river water electricity generation, Huka Falls, shrimp farm with tour and restaurant, and jet boat rides are a few of the sites you'll want to see many times over.

Rotorua was our next stop for several days with friends who run a B & D & B (Bed, dinner, brekky) at their sheep station beyond sulphur smells in

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hills near Rainbow Farms. They have 2 bedrooms with tree ferns and rimu outside the windows. They cook marvelous NZ fare for dinner and breakfast, and are good company. We've returned 5 times to stay. (email: flemingfarmstays@hotmail.com) Government gardens and Lake Rotorua decorated with white and black swans and herculean rainbow trout are always magnificent. Rainbow farms (trout) and several sheep dog shows are excellent. The Maori "capital" of Whakarewarewa and beautiful geysers and mud pools are here near the horse racetrack.

On we went to Coromandel Peninsula and TePuru. This has become the rural getaway for Auckland folks on weekends and holidays. Oysters and green lip mussels are grown here, as are dairy and beef cattle and sheep. Towns are charming and scenery of mountains and coastline are magnificent. Popular retirement villages with very nice private houses have begun to be built around Thames. We visited 3 where friends had just moved in.

Our month was nearly gone, so we took lodging at Mangere where Auckland Airport is near for car return tomorrow. It was my birthday, so with the International Dateline's help, my birthday lasted 43 hours! Now that's a REAL birthday! The best celebration would have been to spend another month in New Zealand !!!!!!!!

MINIMISE YOUR IMPACT ON FRAGILE PLACES - Kerry Lorimer, xtramsn

"Responsible travel" is about minimizing your impact and maximizing connections with the destinations you visit.

Code Green: Experiences of a Lifetime(NZ$39.99) is a new book from Lonely Planet that profiles 82 amazing responsible travel experiences that will have positive effects on the economy, environment and culture of the places you visit.

And it's not all "hardship and hair shirts" - responsible travel covers the full spectrum of travel experiences and can lead you on some of the most rewarding journeys of your life.

No matter what you do, your mere presence will make some impact on any given environment - the trick is to keep that impact short term and minimal. Occasionally, a wilderness area may be deemed so fragile that prudence warrants it being left altogether untouched and untravelled.

Hiking: Keep erosion to a minimum: don't be

tempted to create a new track or take a shortcut. Stay on the existing trail where possible, even if it's muddy or there's room to walk alongside.

While you're admiring the view, try to keep one eye on your feet! Particularly, at high altitudes and latitudes, native flora can be very slow growing.

It can take years to regenerate after being crushed by your clod-hopper. If you have to traverse an area of delicate wildflowers, grasses or mosses, keep to the outskirts and aim to step on rocks and compacted soil rather than plants.

Whatever you schlep in, you should schiep out Many developing countries, in particular, lack adequate services to dispose of your rubbish.

This includes plastic and food scraps, batteries and those ubiquitous cigarette butts. Take an empty film canister as an ashtray, and a plastic bag to collect your rubbish along the way. Go one step further and pick up litter you see along the trail. Dispose of your trash responsibly: think about where it will end up.

Take a strong water bottle and boil or purify your drinking water, rather than buying bottled water: the scourge of the 21st century is shaping up to be discarded plastic water bottles.

Camping. If you're in a sensitive area, select sandy or non-vegetated surfaces (or leaf litter) to pitch your tent: although that alpine meadow looks enticing, you could be doing irreparable damage to delicate flora. In the interests of further minimizing erosion, don't dig drainage ditches around your tent.

Toilet Hygeine: Tent pegs make good shovels. If you get caught short on the trekking trail, dig a hole at least 15cm deep (or 30cm in hot areas), on the lower side of the trail, preferably at least 100 metres from it.

Take a cigarette lighter and burn your toilet paper. If there is a risk of fire, or the ground is too hard or stony to dig a hole, use leaf litter or rocks to cover.

Make sure you're at least 100 metres away from any watercourse.

Don't dispose of tampons, etc. along the trail - native animals are very good at digging up and scattering buried rubbish. Carry a small plastic bag and dispose of them responsibly.

Washing and water pollution: Pack biode gradable soaps and shampoos that don't contain phosphates, and don't use them directly in fresh waterways - use a bowl or bottle and lather up and rinse 50 metres from the water's edge.

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The same applies for washing pots and pans: elbow grease is a good alternative to excess soap.

If bathing or swimming: consider the sensibilities of local people - both regarding what you wear and using their water. Bathe downstream from water collection points or villages.

Camp fires: Before you light up, check if fires are permitted (or even sensible) either from a safety or an environmental perspective.

Use only dead timber from fallen trees: standing trees, even dead ones, provide important habitat for wildlife.

Don't throw non-biodegradable material into the, fire - particularly batteries and plastic.

Never leave a fire unattended and keep some water handy in case it gets out of control. Make sure all embers are extinguished and try to leave the site with as little obvious disturbance as possible.

SCIENTIST MULLS MAORI 'WARRIOR' GENE (NewstalkZB)

A New Zealand researcher is suggesting a gene carried by a large number of Maori could be key to addressing health issues.

Dr. Rod Lea is a genetic epidemiologist at the Institute of Environmental Science and Research and has been speaking at an international conference in Brisbane.

He claims there is an over representation of the gene monoamine oxidase, known as the 'warrior' gene, in Maori men.

Dr Lea says the gene has been linked to aggressive behaviour as well as addictions to things such as tobacco.

He denies Australian reports quoting him suggesting the gene has links to criminality. Dr Lea says those reports are wrong.

Dr Lea says he's interested in the genetic basis of disease in the Maori population, not in linking genes to criminal outcomes.

Maori Party co-leader Pita Sharples agrees that to link the gene to criminal behaviour is taking it a bit far.

He says when it comes to risky behaviour, a link is possible, given Maori are seen as the third most entrepreneurial people in the world.

Dr Sharples says the gene could explain some of the behaviour exhibited recently by the Foreign Minister, although he thinks Winston Peters' gene is specifically linked to his dealings with the media.

He says the Maori-specific gene could also explain Maori crossing the Pacific without modern instrumentation and those deadly tackles on the rugby field.

MICRO-CHIPPING VICTORY (NewstalkZB)

National is claiming victory over the Government on dog-micro-chipping laws.

It has been successful in amending the regulations to ensure farm dogs will be exempt.

National Agriculture spokesman David Carter says it is a significant blow to the Government and its supporters.

He says Labour and the poodle parties, United Future and New Zealand First, have consistently ignored public opinion and have now been shown to be in the wrong.

Associate Local Government Minister Nanaia Mahuta is surprised four Green MPs changed their vote at the 11th hour to support the amendment.

She says in the past they said all along they were not going to support exemptions and assurances given were not kept, and she is disappointed about that.

Federated Farmers Vice-President Don Nicholson says it is great to see commonsense prevail. He is grateful to the promoters of the amendment and thanks the Green MPs.

Mr Nicholson says the next step must be getting urban dogs which are not menacing or dangerous exempt too.

AKAROA WALK - Christchurch to Akaroa

The Akaroa Walk is rapidly becoming an icon among New Zealand hiking adventures. It is a 39 km, upmarket, three-day, guided walk. You travel along the Summit Ridge and across Banks Peninsula, in the Canterbury Region of the beautiful South Island of New Zealand.

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evening features a NZ barbeque, with fresh Akaroa salmon and complimentary local wines or other beverages.

You will experience unsurpassed views of the Southern Alps, Canterbury Plains, Lyttelton, Diamond Harbour, Port Levy, Okuti, French Farm Valley, Kaituna, Wainui, Lake Forsyth, Lake Ellesmere and Akaroa.

You complete the walk in the historic French settlement of Akaroa.

TAILORED TRAVEL NZ CUSTOM TOURS

We recently returned from a fabulous trip to New Zealand. I wanted to pass on the name of our guide as he was the best we have ever had in all of our travels. His name is Robert Panzer of Tailored Travel. His website is www.newzealandcustomtours.com and his email address is Robert@CustomTours.co.nz

After we filled out a questionnaire as to our interest, he planned a custom tour for us - he made all reservations at 5 star B & Bs, did all of the driving, took us to all of the best restaurants, and took all of the worry out of traveling. It was a "no headache" trip. Our only regret is that we don't know a "Robert" in every country we travel to! As we struggle to find perfect guides, we wanted to let your readers know about him.

Allyn and Ralph Frobsin

frohsin@charter.net

END OF THE LINE FOR THE OVERLANDER (www.stuff)

Toll NZ Ltd has announced that The Overlander train service between Auckland and Wellington will cease operating at the end of September.

The company said continuous loss of patronage has led to the decision. It said the service, which had run at a substantial loss for many years, faced increased costs and competition from cheaper travel options and was no longer viable.

In November 2004 the company ended the overnight train services between Wellington and Auckland. The service, which started on Valentine's Day 1909, had been outpaced by cheap flights and the convenience of cars, the company said at the time.

Toll NZ chief executive David Jackson said that the public support is not there for the Overlander and the final train will run on Saturday, September 30.

The Green Party said the Government must ensure that Toll did not dismantle the infrastructure

that would allow the service to be reinstated when the effects of the end of cheap oil really started to bite. Co-leader Jeanette Fitzsimons said she was disappointed at the decision, which was clearly a result of cheap off-peak air fares, but that would not last. "I predict that as oil prices continue to rise further we will need The Overlander again."

To travel on the Overlander between Wellington and Auckland costs $170 for a standard adult fare or $158 for an internet fare for the 12-hour journey. The cost of flying with Air New Zealand can range between about $100 and $282, depending on date and time of travel. Departures are almost hourly and flight time is one hour.

RUAPEHU LOBBIES FOR NEW TRAIN (nzcity)

Ruapehu District Council will fight for a new train service through the central North Island. Ruapehu District Mayor Sue Moms says losing the only passenger service currently running is a great loss to the region and will have a huge economic impact.

She personally feels it is not about passengers, but a lack of investment in the infrastructure that has finally caught up with the company.

Rail and Maritime Union general secretary Wayne Butson is dumfounded at the demise of the Overlander. He says the decision is bizarre given the high oil prices and international campaigns for more environmentally friendly transport and less road congestion.

The InterCity bus service is confident it can pick up the slack following the axing of the Overlander. Marketing manager Daniel Rode says the company runs 64 buses between Auckland and Wellington every week - 14 of which are tourist- focused. He claims InterCity is now the only true land- transport operator for the entire country.

OTTER ON THE LAM IN AUCKLAND -xtramsn

Auckland Zoo is reassessing the hunt for an escaped otter. Jin broke out of her enclosure more than a week ago. She was spotted in Devonport on Tuesday night, but has not been seen since.

Zoo spokeswoman Jane Healy says staff will be following up on a couple of calls, but they do not know if Jin has stayed put.

She says hunting the otter with no sightings is like searching for a needle in a haystack, and zoo staff are relying on the public to keep their eyes and ears open.

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Ms Healy says no one should try to catch Jin as they might scare her off. She says anyone who spots the otter should call Auckland Zoo.

TOM CRUISES INTO COATESVILLE - xtramsn

It does not have to be dark to see the stars in Auckland. Tom Cruise was seen in the city yesterday.

Newstalk ZB revealed that Tom Cruise has been spotted outside the Ferry Terminal building in Auckland. He is believed to be in town organizing the interior design for a multi-million dollar mansion he is building in Coatesville, north west of Auckland.

Rodney district mayor John Law is delighted with the speculation and says he looks forward to meeting the Mission Impossible star if he really is moving to his area. He says one thing is for sure - Tom Cruise can afford to pay the rates.

GUARDIAN OF THE LAND - Tourism News

She is manua whenua; a guardian of the land. Ulva Goodwillie-Ainos has been operating Ulva's Guided Walks, on Ulva Island in Rakiura National Park for the past five years.

It is one of New Zealand's few open sanctuaries and by taking a tour through this small piece of paradise with Ulva Goodwillie-Amos you're in for an authentic and interactive experience.

Through knowledge passed down over generations Ulva Goodwillie-Amos understands the traditional stories and uses of the flora and fauna on the island. And by working with the Department of Conservation, she has developed a thorough knowledge of the rare birdlife of Ulva Island.

"It's all done from the heart and if I can share the knowledge and experience I have, and get paid for something I love doing, then it all falls into place." As for having the same name as the island, Ulva Goodwillie-Amos reckons it's the icing on the cake. "My parents must have known what I was going to do when they named me Ulva," she laughs.

Ulva incorporates a strong cultural element on her island walks. "I am a direct descendent of the first people here. That's a huge part of my life and one that I like to share," she says.

Although the primary focus of what Ulva does is sharing the natural values of Ulva Island, she believes Maori interpretation adds depth and value. "If I see a plant and remember its medicinal values because my grandma used to use it, then I slip that knowledge in."

Ulva's knowledge of the birds of the island, which include some of New Zealand's most endangered species, comes from working with DOC, helping with species transfers and guiding summer programme walks. "I think I know my robins on a name-by-name basis. It makes it very personal."

Ulva always customizes her walks to suit. "Some groups have different interests and you accommodate what they want. For example Botanical Society people come here with their magnifying glasses looking for liverworts and mosses, so that's what you show them. There might be a very rare saddleback right beside them but they'll ignore it to study a liverwort. That's fine."

She also keeps her groups small, twelve being the maximum. "I want everyone to know about the island but I don't want them to all come at once. I'm a small owner/operator and I want to keep it that way, with small, personal groups that allow for interaction. I always make sure the person at the back hears and sees what's going on. If I was at the back I wouldn't want to miss out."

Ulva Goodwillie-Amos encourages interaction and her natural, unscripted approach allows her to build a connection with her visitors, as one Irish client explains. "Ulva is one of the best nature guides we've had. She is very knowledgeable and entertaining, and I think it's great her history is here and she has a connection here in much the same way we have a connection with Ireland."

At her base, Ulva's high standards are maintained. She is careful to answer her phone messages and emails regularly. "Clients leave messages for bookings and can rely on me to get back to them. This kind of reliable, prompt attention creates a good first impression."

And obviously once they've experienced Ulva's Guided Tours they're left with a great lasting impression too.

From WYSIWYG NEWS by Brian Harmer

(Copyright by Brian Harmer, reprinted by permission)

A regular joy of my morning commute is the view out over the harbour and out through the heads. No matter what the weather, there is always some aspect of that view to give pleasure to the eye, and bring peace to the mind.

Keeping one's eye on the road and the cars ahead is also vital, but with no cellphone to distract me, I retain sufficient peripheral vision to take in the wider landscape.

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On two or three days this week, I was delighted to see that most elegant of birds, the Austral asian Gannet (Sula serrator) doing their spectacular dives into a school of fish somewhere off the Horokiwi Road.

These birds have a wingspan of up to 2 metres (a bit over six feet), yet they make a very modest splash when they hit the water, and are graceful when they leave. I can think of no more streamlined bird than this master of the air, and they seem scarcely to flap their wings as they wheel about the sky.

Another group of avian visitors spotted closer to the city was a flock of what I think were white fronted terns (Sterna stnata) swirling in mysterious unison chasing heaven knows what just off the shore at Kaiwharawhara.

And if there is insufficient interest in the sea and land forms and cloudscapes, then the port itself always has something interesting happening. A new ferry berth has been established just outboard of the existing one, and the big new ferry, Kaitaki berths bow inwards so that vehicles can exit through its giant nose doors.

This ferry uses the magnetic mooring systems that have been so successful in the other berths, and the 11,000 Tonne vessel (formerly Pride of Cherbourg) towers over the earlier ferries, Aratere and Arahura which are less than half its tonnage.

The new vessel has no rail traffic capability and this no doubt simplifies the link span arrange ments for getting vehicles on and off. In any event she is so big as to look down on the motorway at any state of the tide, and in normal circumstances is always there in the morning as I drive to work. As I say, there is always something to see.

LUCKY COW CLUCKY - stuff.co.nz

Cow 569 is running with the bull in the hope she'll get in-calf.

The Woodville dairy cow achieved world fame when she saved Kim Riley's life in the 2004 February floods, towing Mrs. Riley out of the treacherous Manawatu River.

Cow 569 has been the subject of a best-selling childrens' book Cow Power and her calf Tuggy's Bouy born in 2005, was the star of a second book.

Tuggys Bouy was auctioned to raise money for Plunket and bought by a group of farmers who donated him to Owlcatraz in Shannon.

The Rileys had thought their famous cow was in

calf again, but a recent scan found she is empty after artificial insemination failed. "Cow 569 is 11 years old, which is elderly and getting to the end of her breeding days, but we're hopeful she'll conceive with .the bull," Mrs. Riley says.

The cow remains a good milker and "an easy care cow" and the Rileys would like to keep her milking in the herd for as long as possible. "When the time comes and she doesn't get in calf, we'll retire her here," Mrs. Riley said.

No trip to the freezing works for Cow 569. "She's earnt her retirement in a nice paddock," Mrs. Riley says.

NEW ZEALAND'S CHARMS

Between the culturally rich North Island and the dramatically scenic South Island, New Zealand is rich in majestic, magnificently varied beauties and enchantments. Our travelers take in Tauranga, a fine mix of mountains and seaside delights centered around the well-named Bay of Plenty. It's only a short hop to Rotorua, with its fascinating and delightful thermal springs and its rich Maori culture.

Nestled among dramatic alps on the South Island (Sir Edmund Hillary, perhaps the country's favorite son, trained here before climbing Mount Everest), the ever charming towns of Christchurch and Queenstown evoke an England of days gone by. Traversing two national parks, the famous Routeburn Track is one of the world's classic hikes. The list of New Zealand's charms is long and tempting, but high on that list is the chance to enjoy its passion for great food and wine, served up in some of the most delightful small hotels and lodges on earth.

KlWlphile FILE
Published quarterly by Eva Trapani

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