Volume 22, No. 1
SEPTEMBER 2008

GOBLIN FOREST

Hunched against the almost constant mist, wind and rain for which the rugged Tararua Ranges are renowned, distorted, lumpy trunks covered in moss create an eerie atmosphere in this goblin forest high in the Tararua Forest Park. This was the first forest park to be created in New Zealand and serves a wide range of recreational uses in the lower North Island. As well, the forest plays an important role in helping to control erosion and flooding in the surrounding lowland areas.

FOREST PARKS - TARARUA

(from newzealandnz.co.nz)

Take a stroll in New Zealand’s oldest established forest park.

The Tararua Forest Park provides tramping and hunting opportunities right at the back door of large urban communities. Wellingtonians have adopted the Tararuas as their favorite stamping ground and the country’s first tramping club was formed here in 1919. The original Forest Service saw a need for forest, water and soil conservation. Today public recreation has become a principal focus.

The highest peak in the park, the Mitre, is only 1,571 metres. However, the high profile and visibility of the main range from surrounding lowlands belies the physical challenge and risk of tramping along the high ridges. The range is exposed and an essential part of the Tararua tramping experience is battling high winds on the tops.

These open tops are the big attraction for keen trampers and a track network links most of the major ridges with sheltered huts in the valleys. The most popular tramp is the ‘Southern Crossing’, a 2-3 day tramp traversing the high peaks of Alpha and Hector. It starts from Otaki Forks and rewards strenuous effort with stunning views of the Kapiti Coast and Cook Strait from the ‘Dress Circle’.

Another favorite is the Powell-Jumbo Circuit, starting from Holdsworth Lodge just south of Masterton. The initial climb is to Powell Hut, spectacularly sited on the bush edge just below Mt Holdsworth. From there a one-hour tramp takes you onto the tops and a further 6 hours completes the circuit back to the Lodge.

The eastern park entrances from the Wairarapa have many delightful camping, picnicking and swimming spots in beautiful native bush. From here you can choose to take gentle tramps up river valleys to little gems like Totara Flats. Alternatively try the challenge of a tramping/swimming trip through the gorges.

Look for the beautiful valleys of the Tararuas. They are so homey and welcoming you may just want to stop and rest awhile and leave the high tops for the local stalwarts.

PAUA HOUSE EXHIBITION PROVING TO BE A HIT - from 3 News

The world’s most famous artist and inventor, Leonardo da Vinci, may have met his match.

The interest in Fred and Myrtle’s paua house in the Canterbury Museum is so strong visitors have been queuing out the door to get a taste of kiwi kitsch.

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But while the paua house is unquestionably the Canterbury Museum's most popular attraction at the moment, staff say there is no danger of it overshadowing the museum's other star attraction - the machines of Leonardo da Vinci.

"Most people are in for ten to fifteen minutes and have had a really satisfying experience," Anthony Wright says of the paua house exhibit. "Then it's off to the da Vinci and of course you can take hours to see the incredible wonders that he invented."

However, some patriotic souls believe that the kiwi kitsch clobbers the Italian master.

"It'll be hard to top this," one museum patron told 3 News. "Leonardo might be good, but he wasn't Fred and Myrtle."

The demand to get into Fred and Myrtle Flutey's iconic paua house has been relentless ever since it was recreated at the Canterbury Museum and at this stage it shows no sign of easing.

Since its opening, the museum has experienced an all-time attendance record.

Fred and Myrtle used to welcome around 20,000 visitors a year to their home in Bluff. It is not quite on a par with the six million people that visit the Louvre in Paris to see the Mona Lisa, but it was not a bad number.

More than 10,000 visitors have visited the new Canterbury exhibition since it opened a fortnight ago - some of whom wait for up to an hour-and-a-half to see it.

FLYING THE BILINGUAL SKIES
From 3 News

Air New Zealand hit the skies recently with two greetings - the standard one and a new Maori one.

It is all part of a new initiative to enhance and celebrate Maori language and culture, and was received well by those on board and the company hopes others will follow.

It also celebrated Maori Language Week with a haka competition at its headquarters.

1,400 onboard staff have been trained in mihimihi, ranging from a simple "kia ora" through to "E nga manuhiri o nga pito e wha nau mai haere mai."

"New Zealand is saying the country has two languages," Julian Wilcox says. "We are Maori. Let's use both languages."

The Maori Language Commission and Air New Zealand signed a memorandum of understanding to use Maori onboard their planes.

They say that by promoting the Maori language and culture, they are also promoting New Zealand as a whole.

NEW ZEALAND DEAL RESTORES MAORI TRIBAL LANDS - from Associated Press

Seven indigenous Maori tribes signed New Zealand's largest-ever settlement recently over grievances arising from 19th century losses of lands, forests and fisheries during European settlement of the country.

The $319 million Treelords agreement will transfer ownership of 435,000 acres of plantation forest and forests rents from the central government to the central North Island tribes.

Hundreds of Maori, some wearing traditional feather cloaks, thronged the nation's Parliament in Wellington to witness the signing of the agreement. Chants, challenges and conch shell notes rang out during the ceremony; some wiped tears from their eyes during the speeches and signing.

The seven tribes include more than 100,000 people.

"It's a historic journey we are on," Prime Minister Helen Clark told the crowd. "We came into politics to address injustice and seek reconciliation. Thank you for walking that road with us on this historic day."

Treaty Negotiations Minister Michael Cullen said the transfer of the majority of forests held by the government in the region to the seven tribes meant the asset "will finally be utilized in the interests of local Maori."

"New Zealand is a lesser nation today as a result of the failure to uphold its obligations to so many generations of Maori," Cullen said. "But all has not been lost."

He told Parliament the deal settled the tribes' forest claims but that other grievances would be settled separately and would likely involve further redress payments by the government.

Maori lands and forests were protected by the founding Treaty of Waitangi, signed with European settlers in 1840, but huge tracts of land were taken for settlement. Maori have been engaged in grievance claims since the early 1840s.

Maori paramount chief Dr. Humu te Heu Heu, chairman of the tribal collective, said their objective was to provide tribes with "a strong, durable and sustainable economic future," particularly the youth and the coming generations.

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"This is our legacy to them," he said.

The tribes plan to set up joint asset holding and management structures to maximize the benefits from the future use of the lands and the plantation forests-mainly as lumber.

Maori Affairs Minister Parekura Horomia said when the current settlement is completed the central North Island tribal collective would be New Zealand's largest single land owner in the forestry sector and one of the industry's largest investors.

The previous largest settlement was the 1992 Sealord deal, which transferred nearly half the nation's fish stocks to the Maori. The Treaty of Waitangi gave Maori ownership of the fisheries, but that was lost when the government introduced a strict fishing quota system inthe 1980s.

Sealord Group Ltd. is now the world's sixth largest fishing company.

Maori are among the nation's poorest citizens, with low education and income levels, poor health and housing standards and higher numbers of unemployed. They make up more than half the country's prison population.

NZ ANTARCTIC SOCIETY

Phillipa Durkin, paper conservator at Te Papa, was part of a winter-over team of four conservators (including Chris Cainan and Fiona Cabill from the UK and Emily Fryer from NZ, working through the 24-hour darkness of the Antarctic winter to conserve artefacts from Shackleton's historic Antarctic hut at Cape Royds.

In its second successful year conservators work year round in Antarctica conserving the collection. To date over 1,400 objects have been conserved and 730 returned to Shackleton's hut.

WETA CAVE OPENS TO THE PUBLIC IN WELLINGTON

On Friday 6 June 2008 at 11 am, Weta flung open the doors to the hotly anticipated Weta Cave in Miramar, Wellington. For the very first time, an area of Wellington's visual effects facility was opened up to fans and visitors.

"We're thrilled to have the opportunity to do this", said Weta creative director and co-owner Richard Taylor. "Tania and I have had this dream for years and we are incredibly pleased that we've managed to realize it."

"We know a lot of people have wanted to see what we're all about!", Richard continues. "It's one thing to see it on the big screen, but this way we can give Wellingtonians and visitors a much closer view of Weta."

The Weta Cave is of course no ordinary shop. Apart from being designed in typically fun and artistic Weta fashion it's actually three experiences in one. A mini museum, a theatre and a shop. Visitors will be given a first-ever behind-the-scenes look at Weta via a brand new and unique 20-minute film which will be shown in the Weta Cave screening room. It features interviews with Weta co-founders Peter Jackson, Richard Taylor, Tania Rodger and Jamie Selkirk and gives you exclusive insight into the creativity and imagination that goes into crafting the art of Weta.

You will come face to face with some of the characters, props and displays selected from the more than 20 years Weta has been serving the local and international movie industry. Read the stories of how they were brought to life, and about the artists who created them.

And finally, so that you don't have to leave the Weta Cave empty-handed, the shop features a wide range of movie related merchandise and memorabilia:

• Premium, limited edition sculptures, handcrafted by the artists at Weta

• All new, unique Weta designed clothing, jewellery and mementoes

• Doctor Grordbort's range of amazing Rayguns - a Weta original

• Books, DVDs, magazines, posters and art from the world of movies

• PLUS, a superb selection of pop culture collectibles and graphic novels sourced from around the world, including famous brands like Star Wars, Alien, Doctor Who, Harry Potter, Halo, etc.

Getting there:

Address:
Corner of Camperdown Rd and Weka St., Miramar, Wellington

Bus: Route 2 towards Miramar from Central Wellington. Get off at Camperdown Rd.

Hours: Tuesday to Friday 11am - 6pm

About Weta:

Weta is a multi Academy Award-winning company that rose to prominence with the creation of Middle-Earth for The Lord of the Rings trilogy. Since then, the art of Weta has been seen in a number of films such as King Kong, The Last Samurai and The Chronicles of Narnia.
Phone: +64 (0)4380936 1

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Email: wetacave@wetanz.co.nz

Groups: Please call in advance to make bookings.

OOPS!! - (from Eva)

into Queen Charlotte Sound, stopping at a commercial salmon farm and going ashore on Motuara Island, a bird sanctuary. Back on the boat we head for Ship Cove, sighting several rare species of dolphins along the way, where our track starts.

Ship Cove is one of the most historic areas in the sounds as it was one of James Cook's most popular destinations. Mostly older hikers, Australian, British and Kiwis. We were the only Americans. Interesting couples. It was good to interact with them.

This day we cover 9 miles in about 6 hours. The area is surrounded by bountiful virgin bush, and the walk to the top of the ridge provides spectacular views of emerald green waters, boats anchored, hilly, almost mountainous terrain and fiord-like waters.

Bag lunch, snacks, a bottle of water, orange juice, and a tin cup for hot tea or coffee are supplied. Lunch along the trail is a welcome rest. As you make your way down into Endeavour Inlet you will spy Fumeaux Lodge, our first night's accommodation. I thought we would never get there. There were other guests besides our group. Our red bags containing our personal items that we did not want to carry on the trail awaited us, delivered to our room. You write on the yellow tab the name of the next night's lodge and the water taxi picks them up and delivers them.

Friday 12-28-07, we awake to a rainy day and a gourmet breakfast. Plenty of time is allowed and you are never rushed. Just one more pleasant aspect of the track, thanks to Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company and their guides. Today is 7 miles, the rain turned to off and on drizzle and was no problem at all. Rain parkas were supplied.

Before leaving, we all made our own sandwiches and packed our bag lunch from a "buffet" of lunch items. There is a nearby waterfall to view. We skipped this. The track winds its way around the coastline to the other side of Endeavour Inlet-more good scenery. This night is at Punga Cove Resort. The neat thing about this place is that the trail ends at their dock-side café and bar where everyone congregates.

The water taxi stops here with passengers and supplies. Sailboats are moored in the harbor and it is a real treat to be here. Fishing gear, boats, kayaks, washer/dryer, mountain bikes, sauna, small pool, and fishing excursions are available. The restaurant and

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cabins are up a steep path on the side of the hill. The address is: Endeavour Inlet, Queen Charlotte Sound, Marlborough, New Zealand, Rural Bay 408, Picton.

As is true of the other accommodations on the track, you could stay here on your own, arriving via water taxi, by foot, or by auto. Advance booking is a real must. Rates from US$25 for the backpackers lodge up to US$300 for the penthouse chalet. Our studio chalet with a view of the harbor and dock was (included in the Adventure Company package) US$120, and quite nice. Dinner was another gourmet delight.

Saturday 12-29-07, our third day on the track, brings a 15 mile hike so we decide to take the water taxi instead which as it turned out, was a good decision because of the action on the water, the diverse scenery, and the activity surrounding the taxi. Hiking would have been more of the same and for us exhausting.

The water taxi made multiple stops before dropping us off at Torea Bay where a van took us up over the "portage", dropping us off for a 2 hour walk after which we walked down the other side to the Portage Resort Hotel, our last night's lodging. This was another first class resort similar to the first two, located on Keneperu Sound. They even had motor scooters for hire along with the other items I mentioned about the first resort.

The Portage is 10 minutes from Picton by water taxi and 50 minutes by car. Same excellent food, wine and camaraderie. The name "Portage" comes from when the natives carried their canoes across from one bay to the other over this narrow strip of land.

Sunday 12-30-07, off for a 12 mile hike, our last day of the track. We left 1 hour ahead of the group which we liked, as we did not feel obligated to keep up. As it turned out, the group never did catch us, and we were really proud of ourselves.

You start out ascending to a ridgeline track providing wonderful vistas of the Sounds as you walk along. After Mistletoe Bay, the track sidles along the hill and drops down into Davies Bay before the last half hour through mature beech forests, ending at Anakiwa for a scenic water transport to Picton.

Water skiers, sailboats, personal water craft, motor boats of all descriptions, kayaks, monstrous ferry boats, etc. are there. Festive and lively, a real fun place to be. At the Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company dockside headquarters we were treated to chips and dip and fresh mussels along with wine and beer.

We each received a complimentary group photo and a certificate. The night was spent at the Yacht Club Hotel which was better this time. Skipped supper, a must-do from time to time after all the gourmet meals on the track. We watched the movie Shrek II on TV which was really weird for us-funny what you do sometimes. We arranged for a pick up by Sounds Air, P0 Box 1, Picton, for the next mornings 8:10 am flight to Wellington.

Monday 12-31-07. Really windy, great service, single engine Cessna Caravan, about 16 seats. We had the plane to ourselves for a real rough ride due to the wind. Cost about US$60, one way per person. At Wellington we took a cab to the ferry terminal and got our station wagon and headed back north (now on North Island) on route 1 to Taupo.

There are endless activities here, many centered around the lake. You can even drive a race car. The area is rather flat, though. We are heading north to do the Tongariro Crossing Track the next day.

This track can start with a pick up at the Chateau Hotel that we stayed at previously on this trip, but it was full as this was New Year's Eve, so we were lucky to get a reservation at the Cove Hotel in Taupo, which is a lively resort village on the shores of the lake. This was a 4 or 5 hours drive.

We had a fun stop for lunch at Taihape, a one-horse small town with much local flavor. Be sure and stop and explore some small towns along the way. We had lunch at a cafeteria with the locals, bought some wine and beer to take along and Ewa purchased a sweater.

The Cove Hotel was good, no elevator, restaurant or beer, new owners I think. It was touted for having the best and most famous restaurant, which no longer was there we found out upon arrival. The evening was quiet for a New Year's Eve. Dinner at the Crooked Door was so-so. This was kind of a wasted day, but the next day was a real event. (Cove Hotel, 213 Lake Terrace, Taupo, NZ.)

Tuesday, 1-1-08. Up at 4 am and off to the Bayview Chateau Tongariro at the base of Mt Ruapehu which is a national park (www.chateau.co.nz) We had made reservations for a bus to pick us up at the Chateau through the hotel at our previous visit there this trip.

We weren't the only ones being picked up, and under this arrangement you do the track on your own. The bus drops you off at the start and picks you up at the end, and brings you back to the hotel. The hotel offers a bag lunch and 2 bottles of water, which was a good thing. You must be in good shape to do this.

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We were one of the first to start and were the last to finish. Quite a few people do this. Walking sticks were provided by the bus company, which by the way keeps track of everyone so that nobody is left on the mountain.

If you are older and not in tip top shape, I highly recommend Stewart Barclay of Adrift Outdoors LTD. His van will pick you up and meet you at the end with a stock of cold beer and other goodies-but most importantly, the guide goes along with you on the track and looks after you, which could prove to be anywhere from reassuring to life saving. I really would take the guide, Stewart Barclay, Adrift Out doors, National Park, Alpine Village, Tongariro, NZ, or Stewart@jadriftnz.co.nz.

They also offer sea kayaking, river canoe trips and other tracks up to 6 days duration. Really nice folks that you would feel comfortable with, If you do not want to spend the day torturing yourself, contact Mountain Air on State Highway 47 opposite Whgakapopa. Turn off Mt. Ruapehu near the Chateau. Also real nice folks. This track was an eye opener for us and we are glad we did it and even more glad we survived.

It is just over 10 miles, starting at 1000 meter elevation, climbing up to 2000 meters and then down to 800 meters. Listed as "challenging", 7-8 hours, was more like over 10 hours for us. You hike from Mangatepopo to Ketetahi. Often described as the best one day hike in New Zealand. It's called the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. You experience some of the most scenic and active volcanic areas of the park.

The track winds up the Mangatepopo Valley, up the devil's staircase which is a real killer, to the saddle between Tongariro and Ngauruhoe. It climbs to Red Crater at 1886 meters, then drops down to the vivid Emerald Lakes. After passing Blue Lake, the track descends around the northern slope of Tongariro, then descends in a zig-zag to the Ketetahi Hut, and on to the car park. You think this will never end, but we are real glad we did it. The night at the Chateau was great. We were up-graded to a suite in the new wing which is really nice. Dinner again at the café attached to the hotel and frequented by locals. Good food.

Wednesday, 1-2-08. We called our friends at 7 am NZ time and it was 1 pm in Cincinnati but we were ahead a day, being in NZ. We drove up to the adjacent ski area. The chair lift was running for hikers and sight seeing. Then off to Auckland, via Route 1 which is a 4 to 5 hour drive. We stopped in Hamilton for lunch. Driving is easy.

We first went to the airport and were lucky to reclaim our lost luggage, a big relief, and everything was intact We did get lost when the motorway was closed near Auckland city center. We stayed in Parnell which is a good thing. It has lots of small eateries and shops along Parnell Road. We stayed two nights here at the Ascot Hotel which turned out to be a bed and breakfast. We never have had a good experience at a B&B, and had we known, we would have tried for reservations at Parnell's Village Motor Lodge, 2 Saint Stevens Ave., Parnell, Auckland, NZ. www.parnellmotorlodge.co.nz. Not fancy but ideal location, and nice people running it.

Thursday 1/3/08. Anyway the Link bus (Green) runs up and down Parnell Road and circles around the city's most interesting sights, the harbor, the tower which is called Sky City, New Town shopping district, and the main downtown area. All day pass is NZ$12, Auckland is fun. Ewa went off shopping and I rode the Link bus to the harbor for a cruise for NZ3O, which I recommend. Time permitting, you can cruise to several nearby islands.

There is a nice bar restaurant dockside near the cruise boats on Quay Street which the Link Bus runs along. Next I walked to the Sky Tower which costs NZ$25, and is a must. You can jump off the top following a cable down to a trampoline far below. There is a glass floor at the top, and standing on the glass floor looking down is as close as you want to get to jumping.

Back on Parnell Road, try Movenpeck ice cream store, really good. Many of the eateries were closed for the holidays. A noticeable number of BMW cars and persons of other nationalities. Also stop in at the ANZ bank on Parnell Road and lay down 20 or more NZ dollars for 20 bonus bonds entitling you to 20 chances to win one million NZ dollars every month. Winners are listed on the web. You can get your NZ$20 back any time, the catch being you do not get any interest on your money.

Get yourself a copy of "Jaysons Auckland free visitor guide with maps". www.jasons.com, P 0 Box 9390, Newmarket, Auckland 1149, New Zealand.

We headed north on route 1 early, to Goat Island, which was named for the goats that were left on the island for passing ships. Actually there was no water on the island and all the goats swam ashore. Snorkeling, diving and kayaking are popular here. Half wet suits were in order as the water was kind of cold.

We then drove back south on route 1 to the Auckland Airport. We had a difficult time finding

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the Britz Auto Rental where we had picked up the station wagon. A long wait to check it in. They provide a bus to take you to the terminal for an evening 12-hour flight to L.A. on Qantas, 10:30 am L.A. time, same day, Friday. Our experience with Qantas was good. Three persons seated in each row, or more in the center.

In Los Angeles you clear customs, no problem. Two and 1/2 hour layover for this, and off to Concinnati for an 8 pm arrival. Get the car from long- term parking and get the dog. The best part of the trip is getting the dog. Good trip. The good thing was, we had freedom to do as we pleased at our own pace. The highlight was the Queen Charlotte Track, a must do.

NZ-US RELATIONS IN 'GOOD SHAPE'

And it's a real bunker, not a pub. I'd recommend calling ahead as the place is usually full and seating is limited to around 60. Phone ahead at 09 445 2227.

As of May 08, the American Express office in Auckland had closed down and was empty. There was no listing for such an office anywhere in Auckland in the phone book.

There is a new car rental company at the bottom of

Parnell hill in Auckland that was highly recommended

by several people I met, including B&B managers:

Juicy Car Rental Company.

From Auckland to airport I used "Discount Taxi", phone 529-1000 at a flat rate of NZ$35 with great service.

FISHING GUIDE - New Zealand Information Net

New Zealand is a fisherman's paradise, boasting rivers and lakes that supply an array of fresh fish unsurpassed anywhere else in the world. Likewise for the surf-caster, popular beaches abound. Fishing spots are easily accessible and all areas not marked private property are open to fishermen. Catches of rainbow, brown and brook trout, marlin, hapuka, salmon, snapper, tuna, terakihi, kingfish, shark, kahawai, among other varieties, are in plentiful supply throughout the country.

Trout fishing is an extremely popular sport in New Zealand; however as the country has no commercial trout hatcheries, the tasty fish does not appear on restaurant menus. Occasionally a food establishment will cook your own catch.

British immigrants first introduced trout fishing into New Zealand in 1867, when brown trout eggs (obtained from fish transported from Britain to Tasmania), were sent to New Zealand. Rainbow trout eggs were imported from the Russian River Hatchery in California and arrived in Auckland in 1883. The eggs were rushed to Lake Taupo, on the North Island, where abundant food sources allowed the fish to grow to sporting size within three years. Today New Zealand trout is recognised as a top sport fish and a delicious meal frequently served on our dinner tables.

New Zealand's fishing seasons vary between the two major islands. In most North Island destinations the season commences in October and finishes at the end of June, whereas the South Island's season runs from October until the end of April.

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The Southern lakes remain open until the end of May, while Lake Taupo and the lower reaches of streams entering its east side can be fished year round.

Fishing licences can be obtained from any sports shop located in one of the country's 22 fishing districts, excluding Rotorua and Taupo. Separate licences for these two areas can be procured from a hotel or sports shop. NZ fishing licences may be purchased on a daily, weekly, monthly or seasonal basis, according to individual needs.

Guided fishing tours are available in New Zealand with most companies providing gear such as waders, rods, reels, lines, tackles and waterproof clothing, if venturing on a private expedition, either bring your own gear or rent it from one of the many fishing shops located throughout the country. A med ium-weight, two-piece rod (2.5 to 3.0 metres) is recommended. The import of flies made from chicken feathers is illegal in New Zealand, due to the possible introduction of poultry disease.

ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREAT TRAIN TRIPS

"I arrive at our departure point, Dunedin's magnificently restored railway station, in the heart of the city, and board one of the panorama carriages. The train travels over the fertile farms of the Taieri Plains and into the Taieri Gorge. We cross magnificent stone and wrought iron viaducts and I gasp at the sheer drops to the river below. We pass through a series of tunnels with the rock walls only inches from the side of the train. Standing on the open viewing platform gave me a thrill.

"Souvenirs, light food, tea, coffee, wines, ales and other drinks are available on board and an informative live commentary is given on the journey. You'll hear how determined railway engineers built this line against all odds, and of goidmining ventures, farming, devastating floods, and much more.

"Wheelchair access is normally available- please reserve this in advance. Take lots of film- disembark for wonderful photos to take home.

"I have travelled railways in the USA, Europe and Australia, but this trip is a must on your visit 'Down Under'. TAKE MY WORD!'.

another satisfied customer

QUEEN CHARLOTTE DRIVE - from Eyewitness Guide

The best-known road in the Marlborough Sounds, Queen Charlotte Drive, is a scenic route connecting Picton and Havelock. With stopovers, it can take up to half a day to complete the 35-km (21.5 miles) journey on the sealed but narrow and winding road. Leaving Picton, the Queen Charlotte Drive passes lookout points above the town and at Governors Bay, 8 km (5 mi.) from Picton, with excellent views up and down Queen Charlotte Sound. Beaches and pleasant picnic and swimming areas can be found along the route that passes through the picturesque settlements of Ngakuta and Momorangi bays.

Continuing west, a turn-off from Governors Bay leads to historic Anakiwa, where the Queen Charlotte Track begins. A shelter and picnic area are provided and an easy stroll along the track leads through beech forest to Davies Bay.

The Queen Charlotte Drive route continues through Linkwater with the road following the waters of the Mahakipawa Arm, the innermost reaches of Pelorus Sound. The walking tracks and viewpoint at Cullen Point provide another perspective on the waterways below, before the road's final descent into Havelock.

PAUA

I hold in my hand a paua

I hold in my head

images of clear skies...

and sparking waters.

I hold in my heart New Zealand

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